I have a need for a small diesel lubritorium or small maintennce service building if you prefer. I need it to be a two stall facility with a footprint of about 6"W X 14"L. Oh yes, and single story.
I'll be using the DPM Landmark Structures Modular Building System for the build.
Here is what I'll need:
Part #30107 Street Level Open Arches (1)
Part #30117 Cornices Plain (2)
Part #30131 Street Level Rect. Entries (1)
Part #30173 Dock Level Steel Sash Windows (3)
This will get me started. I'll list more parts later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152858.jpeg)
I opened the packages, removed the sprues and cleaned off the flash. I used Xuron nippers to remove the tabs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152922.jpeg)
When cleaning the pilasters, note there are two sizes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152911.jpeg)
It will be a good idea to keep the two sizes in separate piles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152934.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I fine tuned the flash removal by using an Emory Board. In the photo below you can see I used the Emory Board rough side down to clean any flash on the wall side tabs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152945.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152945.jpeg)
Fast forward several hours of flash removal and I'm ready to glue some walls and pilasters together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152954.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152954.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I forgot to mention I went with the arched openings so I'd have a lillte more room for a diesel exhaust stack if needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516162922.jpeg)
Also note, when gluing the walls together use the LARGER/WIDER pilaster. I'll explain the more narrow pilaster later in the build.
Here is the same photo from above for your convenience on where the larger pilaster goes when gluing the walls together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516152954.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I "spot" glued the two walls and pilaster together. When dry I turned the walls over and applied more glue to the seem in the middle. This way I don't run the risk of over gluing the walls, meaning, I don't run the risk splashing liquid glue on the wall sections.
You can see I'm using the Plastruct Bondene glue. I'm sure any liquid glue will work but I prefer working with this brand.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153005.jpeg)
Again, fast forward and the walls are partially finished. Note the upper two set of walls are higher than the wall sections on the bottom. This is due to the cornices being added to the longer wall sections. The others will get the cornices added as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516162909.jpeg)
More on the addition of the cornices tomorrow.
Thanks for checking the thread.
Glad to see you building structures again.....I'll be watching. 8)
I use Bondene when I'm not in a hurry, or when there's less potential for the surface crazing - it evaporates slower, but seems to spread farther from where I apply it.
It can be hard to find them, but 4" knife files have a 'safe edge' with no teeth. I like to use mine for cleanup of mold marks & flash from things like the wall side tabs.
Tom,
You are a man of many talents. I will be following along.
Quote from: sdrees on May 01, 2016, 07:39:25 PM
Tom,
You are a man of many talents. I will be following along.
I also will be watching.
Jim
Thanks Tom, now I don't feel bad about building plastic kits now and then, I will be watching.
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 01, 2016, 05:26:11 PM
Glad to see you building structures again.....I'll be watching. 8)
Greg,
Thanks Butty, it's nice to get back building something other the the empire.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jbvb on May 01, 2016, 06:01:34 PM
I use Bondene when I'm not in a hurry, or when there's less potential for the surface crazing - it evaporates slower, but seems to spread farther from where I apply it.
It can be hard to find them, but 4" knife files have a 'safe edge' with no teeth. I like to use mine for cleanup of mold marks & flash from things like the wall side tabs.
James,
Thanks for stopping by and posting a comment. I like the Plastruct Weld as well. It's just as strong and dries much faster. I just happen to be out of it when the project started.
I do have a flat safe edge metal file I use on the wall sides. I just showed the Emory Board but I think the file is more accurate on the sanding.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on May 01, 2016, 07:39:25 PM
Tom,
You are a man of many talents. I will be following along.
Steve,
Thanks for the kind words of support. I think of myself as a generalist and master of nothing.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on May 01, 2016, 09:59:44 PM
Quote from: sdrees on May 01, 2016, 07:39:25 PM
Tom,
You are a man of many talents. I will be following along.
I also will be watching.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for following along. Do I hear a birthday train coming your way this weekend?
Tom ;D
Quote from: ak-milw on May 01, 2016, 10:03:22 PM
Thanks Tom, now I don't feel bad about building plastic kits now and then, I will be watching.
Andy,
You are very welcome. I like working with plastic. It all goes to being a complete modeler in my humble opinion.
If I'm not mistaken, Mr. Sellios has a few plastic structures on the F&SM. We are in great company.
Tom ;D
It's time to add the cornices to the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153018.jpeg)
I'd like to make a suggestion when using the cornices. Actually it involves removing them from the sprue. In the photo below you can see that I've compleyely removed one set and the other is shown removed but in the sprue carrier.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153030.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Below is a better photo and close up of the parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153041.jpeg)
If at all possible, cut the sprue where I did and removed the parts as best you can without disturbing the sprue.
Okay, I know this is a big mystery but I'll explain later in the build. Trust me, the sprues will come in handy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153053.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I made the cornice sections and placed them at the top of the walls. In the photo below you can see the cornices prior to the gluing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153105.jpeg)
I started with the two arched openings. This is the front of the lubritorium.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153120.jpeg)
I then moved to the side walls and added the cornices.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010516153133.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Time to glue the corners. DPM doesn't supply the next needed item so get some while ordering the other parts. You'll need some 1/4" or HO scale 8X8's for the corners.
I'm going to glue together the two walls shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165853.jpeg)
Notice the wall on the left has a narrow pilaster and the one on the right has the wider pilaster?
These two sections of pilasters are a pair. Whenever you have an outside corner to glue the two are both used. This gives you a constant with all the walls. If you used two narrow ones together and/or the two larger ones, the walls won't be square when you go to glue them together.
Also, the narrow pilaster has brick detail on one edge and the other edge doesn't. See below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165942.jpeg)
The narrow pilaster with the no brick detail edge is glued to the back side of the larger pilaster and not the other way. The key is to be very consistent when gluing the wall corners.
More in a few.
Next, cut a piece of the HO scale 8x8 and glue it to the backside of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170028.jpeg)
Now your walls should look like this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170009.jpeg)
Next, glue the other wall in place. The backsides should look like the ones below. The white scale 8x8 fits flush in the corner of each wall section. And, don't forget to square the walls while the glue dries. That tip is free.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165905.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time folks, back in a few.
Okay, I'm back! Here is how the outside corner should look. Notice the narrow pilaster butts up the the wider pilaster for a nice fitting corner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165954.jpeg)
Next, glue the narrow and wider pilaster caps in place as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165916.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165928.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Gluing an inside corner is a little more tricksie!
I was going through my bag of wall sections and then read the instructions and found that the inside wall corners aren't supplied with he wall sections either. The instructions state, "Use Inside Corner Strips (sold separately, included with Design Bulk Packs and Roof & Trim kit #30190)"
What the Fudge! Get it? Nice to know now that the project is started. So, instead of buying the little extra kit, I used the HO scale 8x8's. The walls will be painted anyway.
I glued the HO scale 8x8 on the wall where the large pilaster would normally be glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170104.jpeg)
I then glued the other wall section to the 8x8 making sure the walls were square while the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170128.jpeg)
I then glued the five window wall section to the rest of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170140.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170140.jpeg)
Now all the walls are glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170202.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170202.jpeg)
More tomorrow afternoon.
Looking good Tom, nice sized building.
Tom real neat work. Your corners are looking perfect.
Great job.
Jerry
I'll be following along .... as long as I can keep my eyes open.
Clean, methodical working like this with styrene makes all the difference. (Note to self - try following that principle). You're going to end up with a great model with wonderful brick texture Tom. Not having a pop at Andy here but why look down on plastic kits? They are very flexible for the basher and affordable too for those of us on a limited model budget. With a bit of imagination and good treatment they can be made into top quality models. At the risk of being a bit contentious though I'd put my Poor Man's Rollins Sawyer plastic kitbashed model up against a made up laser kit any day. :P
What I should have added to the above is that it really doesn't matter what medium/s we work in as long as we achieve the best results we can and enjoy the process into the bargain.
Barry, I wasn't knocking plastic, it just seems to me that when I build something with it I get talked down to about it. Just wanted to clear that up, now Tom can have his post back.
Very nice thread Tom. You're covering every angle of the build and doing a wonderful job of it.
To echo some of the other comments I like seeing what can be done with the less expensive plastic kits. There are some wonderful examples of folks turning them into real gems on their layouts. :D
Quote from: ak-milw on May 03, 2016, 07:14:58 AM
Barry, I wasn't knocking plastic, it just seems to me that when I build something with it I get talked down to about it. Just wanted to clear that up, now Tom can have his post back.
Yes apologies Tom. Andy that's what gets me we shouldn't have to apologise and the real star modellers here don't disparage materials, they encourage creativity and craftsmanship.
One of these brick buildings is styrene, another is plaster and the third is wood. Can you tell which is which (without recognizing the specific kits?) For models of brick buildings, I think it's all about how you finish them.
dave
Nope they're definitely brick :)
Quote from: ak-milw on May 02, 2016, 07:22:36 PM
Looking good Tom, nice sized building.
Andy,
Thanks, very much appreciated. This has been a fun build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Jerry on May 02, 2016, 10:39:51 PM
Tom real neat work. Your corners are looking perfect.
Great job.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, very much appreciated. The neat corners help it look much better.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on May 02, 2016, 11:08:35 PM
I'll be following along .... as long as I can keep my eyes open.
Donato,
Hey, Welcome home and I trust everything is healing as it should. And, thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: barrymk on May 03, 2016, 05:46:36 AM
Clean, methodical working like this with styrene makes all the difference. (Note to self - try following that principle). You're going to end up with a great model with wonderful brick texture Tom. Not having a pop at Andy here but why look down on plastic kits? They are very flexible for the basher and affordable too for those of us on a limited model budget. With a bit of imagination and good treatment they can be made into top quality models. At the risk of being a bit contentious though I'd put my Poor Man's Rollins Sawyer plastic kitbashed model up against a made up laser kit any day. :P
Barry,
Thanks for following along on the build. It has been some time since I last worked with any type of styrene/plastic.
I've enjoyed the change of material and it keeps my knowledgeable in working with all the mediums such as wood, Hydrocal, plastic and on and on.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 03, 2016, 07:23:23 AM
Very nice thread Tom. You're covering every angle of the build and doing a wonderful job of it.
To echo some of the other comments I like seeing what can be done with the less expensive plastic kits. There are some wonderful examples of folks turning them into real gems on their layouts. :D
Butty Bob,
Thanks so much, I appreciate you checking in. As I mentioned, this has been a change of pace and a fun build. Although I'm about half way through, the possibilities are endless with the DPM modular pieces.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on May 03, 2016, 10:02:18 AM
One of these brick buildings is styrene, another is plaster and the third is wood. Can you tell which is which (without recognizing the specific kits?) For models of brick buildings, I think it's all about how you finish them.
dave
Dave,
It's all "brick" to me! ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Andy and Barry,
I've enjoyed your tete a tete on the subject. Although it's been anything but private. However, lively conversation is always good and reflects our interest on the subject.
To me a kit is a kit no matter what material. I guess this is a kit bash as I'm not making my own walls to be able to call it a scratch build. I've used the DPM modular sections for other structures as well. As Dave said, it's how you make it look when finished.
Never worry about taking over my thread! The forum is for all us to use and express what is on our minds during a build. I'm happy people are following along.
Thank you for the interest.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Is there a plan for an interior?
Bob
Quote from: RWL on May 03, 2016, 01:50:14 PM
Tom,
Is there a plan for an interior?
Bob
Bob,
Thanks for stopping by. Yes, I'll have some interior but not a lot. Mainly in the bay openings which can be seen by visitors but not more towards the center. And, the windows will be very dirty! ;D ;D
Tom 8)
All the wall are now glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170215.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170240.jpeg)
I did make one change. I removed the door and window wall and replaced it with another bay door.
Original wall -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516165928.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
New wall -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170250.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020516170227.jpeg)
The roof and supports will be next.
I refer to an earlier post Tom - you've nailed the straight walls, if you get my drift. Mine would be kinked every which way but of course I'd refer to it as character and say that's just how it is in Cuspidor...hmm maybe there was a minor earthquake....that would explain a lot of my work.
Some heavy styrene bracing along the top of the long walls, in particular, would probably be A Good Idea. I like the shape/size/layout of this!
dave
Tom,
Somewhere in that building you need a place for POL, stores and a tool crib. I thought that one closed wall was the place for the majority of it.
Bob
Tom,
Is you structure based on an ACL prototype structure or is it a freelance build ? Nice building ! 8)
Tommy
Quote from: barrymk on May 03, 2016, 02:51:25 PM
I refer to an earlier post Tom - you've nailed the straight walls, if you get my drift. Mine would be kinked every which way but of course I'd refer to it as character and say that's just how it is in Cuspidor...hmm maybe there was a minor earthquake....that would explain a lot of my work.
Barry,
Thanks for the kind words of support, much appreciated. The walls will be even straighter when I get them braced.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on May 03, 2016, 04:38:17 PM
Some heavy styrene bracing along the top of the long walls, in particular, would probably be A Good Idea. I like the shape/size/layout of this!
dave
Dave,
I appreciate your kind words. I do plan on bracing the roof and walls so stay tuned. I have an idea of how I want them done.
The structure fits the area perfectly.
Tom 8)
Quote from: RWL on May 03, 2016, 11:09:20 PM
Tom,
Somewhere in that building you need a place for POL, stores and a tool crib. I thought that one closed wall was the place for the majority of it.
Bob
Bob,
I got to thinking about the barrels of lube, tools, etc. There appears to be no room in the structure for storage of those items. Even with the one closed wall it wouldn't afford me the room.
So, as always, your thought provoking idea got me thinking a second storage facility behind this one would work and make more sense. Plus I can have an area for boxcar delivery and lubritorium office area. Stay tuned.
Thanks for bringing this up. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 04, 2016, 02:14:26 PM
Tom,
Is you structure based on an ACL prototype structure or is it a freelance build ? Nice building ! 8)
Tommy
Tom B,
Your kind words of support are appreciated. No ACL prototype, but it is a figment of my own imagination. 8) 8)
Tom L ;D ;D
As it turned out, I did have a Roof Detail Kit. I was even very lucky I found it. Ever since I removed the old layout and boxed everything, I haven't be able to find things I know I have.
The good news is when I do open a sealed box, it's Christmas all over again and again.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516145827.jpeg)
The roof detail kit is nice, not for the roof details but for the brick parapet wall trim.
In the photo below you can see the two skinny, crappy, not worth a toot, flimsy 4x4's for the wall corner supports. I'm gald I used the Evergreen Styrene 8x8's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516145840.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I glued the brick parapet sections flush to the inside of the upper wall sections. Where one piece didn't fit, I filed it until I got a good fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516145851.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516145913.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516145925.jpeg)
You can butt the corner pieces to get a good fit and look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516145902.jpeg)
More in a few.
Dr. Jeff, sent his CB&Q diesels down for a test fit in the new Atlantic & Southern RR lubritorium. The motive power is on loan for the Tavares Zephyr.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516150555.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040516150606.jpeg)
Looks good, Tom, especially the CB&Q diesels. The F3s were original equipment for the California Zephyr. Most other passenger trains used E units. Eventually they were regeared for freight work and painted in the normal F unit scheme.
Jeff
Tom,
Do you have room for another provoking thought, maybe two?
Looking at the F units in the confines of the shop, a pit would be fortuitous for the shop crew to address those running repairs. It appears that you have enough room to cut in about an 80 foot pit, enough to handle an E unit and certainly a Geep or, F unit. If you cut between the rails through the ties, paint the cork a darker color than your floor, you would have the illusion. To get a bit deeper to the actual depth, cut through the cork to the plywood, add some styrene walls, a bit of dark gray paint and then you would have a better illusion.
Provoking thought two, considering your railroad is in the south and the weather is fairly temperate through the year, a lean-to off the back of the building would work. You could have the unloading deck covered, the front open ended to protect the POL from the sun, possibly extending the lean-to over the track. A tarpapered 4 - 12 pitch is shallow enough for the south, you could probably get by with a 2 – 12, but it may not look right visually. The back of it could have a closed in area at the end that could be for the materiel and tools that you would want to prevent from walking away. Or you could put everything on the aisle side where it could be seen easily.
Anyway, it is just a couple of thoughts on your endeavor. As usual the building and the construction techniques are coming along very nicely and informative, as is the norm for you. It all looks good.
Bob
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 04, 2016, 04:43:21 PM
Looks good, Tom, especially the CB&Q diesels. The F3s were original equipment for the California Zephyr. Most other passenger trains used E units. Eventually they were regeared for freight work and painted in the normal F unit scheme.
Jeff
Jeff,
We now have a set of the D&RG diesels. Don't ask me why, but I didn't buy them. The Judge is the proud owner.
Thanks for stopping by.
Tom ;D
Bob,
All great suggestions. I may have something for you in the next few days. I hope you are out of ideas as I don't have time to do them justice. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D ;D ;D
Bob (RWL), in a comment posted above, suggested cutting in a couple of work pits in the lubritorium. It was a great idea but I decided not to do it. After a few days thinking of not doing it, I decided to do it anyway.
They really can't be seen that much but they are kind of neat when done.
I marked off a length of about 80 HO scale feet. I then placed the Ribbon Rail sections between the rails to ensure the track was aligned.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164805.jpeg)
I then applied super glue to the outside of the ties. I did this so when the inside ties were cut the track would be glued in place and I didn't have to worry about the rail moving.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164817.jpeg)
When the glue dried, I removed the Ribbon Rail sections.
Continued in a few.
I used the Dremel cut off disk to remove the inside ties.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164830.jpeg)
I then removed the cork roadbed. I then used the Dremel cut off disk to cut a little closer to the inside rail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164845.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164857.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164910.jpeg)
Bob also suggested lining the sides with styrene; however, I chose to not do this.
I painted the bottom and sides with Floquid UP Harbor Mist Gray.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164922.jpeg)
Hey, I even have a large drain plug in one of the pits. You probably think it looks like a dry wall screw. ;D ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164935.jpeg)
When the paint has cured, I'll weather the pits.
Continued in a few.
You may have noticed the lines on the cork. I marked the inside of the lubritorium and then glued some .080 X.080 (HO sclae 4X4's) Evergreen Styrene strips on the lines.
The 4X4's will keep the structure in place and also serve as a support base for the lubrtorium floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516164950.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516165016.jpeg)
More in a few. Diet Pepsi time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516165004.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140516171456.jpeg)
Hopefully, I'll have more done on this project tomorrow.
Tom,
Nice job of cutting the pits into the building floor, very well done. I will refrain from further interference in the future, but believe me, your Lubritorium (LP) crew will appreciate the effort.
Bob
Quote from: RWL on May 15, 2016, 07:32:04 AM
Tom,
Nice job of cutting the pits into the building floor, very well done. I will refrain from further interference in the future, but believe me, your Lubritorium (LP) crew will appreciate the effort.
Bob
Bob,
Thanks for the support, much appreciated.
You are not interfering at all. Your suggestions have been great ones. I'm not however doing the lean to for storage. I plan on another structure behind the lubritorium for that purpose. More to follow later in the week.
Tom ;D
Love the holes in the floor. ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on May 15, 2016, 11:48:42 AM
Love the holes in the floor. ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
Jim
Drat those woodworm.
Quote from: jimmillho on May 15, 2016, 11:48:42 AM
Love the holes in the floor. ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
Jim
Jimbo,
Thanks, I'm very pleased to have your approval. 8) 8) 8) Don't you like my natural drywall screw drain?
Tom ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: barrymk on May 15, 2016, 01:05:45 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on May 15, 2016, 11:48:42 AM
Love the holes in the floor. ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
Jim
Drat those woodworm.
Barry,
Thanks for stopping by. I couldn't read your comment but it was probably funny.
Tom ;D
Looking good Tom, in the long run I think you will be glad you added the pits inside.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 15, 2016, 03:35:45 PM
Barry,
Thanks for stopping by. I couldn't read your comment but it was probably funny.
Tom ;D
Yes sorry about that, don't know where it went and it probably was funny if only I could remember! I blame it on age related stupidity.
Tom.....that detail is the "pits" .... :P
Hi Tom:
Very nicely done so far. The pits look great. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
The only drawback to the holes in the floor is that it has probably initiated an OSHA inquiry as to the dimensions, lighting and other safety features present around the pits. And once the camel has its nose under the tent..........
Quote from: ak-milw on May 15, 2016, 09:06:21 PM
Looking good Tom, in the long run I think you will be glad you added the pits inside.
Andy,
Thanks for the kind remarks, much appreciated. Yes, I'm very happy I added the bits.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on May 16, 2016, 10:10:51 AM
Tom.....that detail is the "pits" .... :P
Donato,
I agree..... they are. It's a "pitty" I didn't think of putting in the pits.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on May 16, 2016, 10:14:07 AM
Hi Tom:
Very nicely done so far. The pits look great. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you for the positive comments, much appreciated. Photos will definitely be added.
Tom ;D
Quote from: BandOGuy on May 16, 2016, 10:46:03 AM
The only drawback to the holes in the floor is that it has probably initiated an OSHA inquiry as to the dimensions, lighting and other safety features present around the pits. And once the camel has its nose under the tent..........
Chipper,
Lucky for me there was no OSHA when this railroad was built.
OSHA - Oh Sh-t, government Here Again!
Tom ;D
I added the new portion of this thread to my layout build. That's how busy I've been as I don't know where I'm going of where I been.
Anyway, here it is in the correct thread.
I used Evergreen Scale Models .060" (1.5mm) thick sheet styrene for the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230516173743.jpeg)
I placed the edge against the track and marked where the cut needed to be made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230516173756.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
After about 30 minutes or so, I had the floor pieces cut and in place. I still need to add expansion joint lines in the floor and paint is a concrete color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230516173812.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230516173825.jpeg)
The roof installation is next.
These next few steps are relatively simple in task. I used the same .060" thick Evergreen sheet styrene to make the roof. I turned the structure over and marked on the unpainted styrene the inside wall width. I then cut the styrene to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183800.jpeg)
I used the same method to cut the little addition section. I then glued the two sections of roof together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183814.jpeg)
More in a few.
To represent a gravel roof, I used 150 grit sandpaper from Ace Hardware and glued it to the top of the roof section. I used 3M spray adhesive to glue the paper to the styrene.
I trimmed the sandpaper flush to the outside edge of the styrene and set aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183841.jpeg)
I used some light weight spackle to fill in the small gap holes on the top of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183907.jpeg)
When the spackle was dry, I sanded it lightly to smooth the edges.
I then spray painted the walls and the parapet wall trim with Floquil Oxide Red. In the photo below you can see the Oxide color as opposed to the "out of the package" color of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183921.jpeg)
I decided to add a storage structure and office to the rear of the lubritorium. My first plan, shown below, didn't fit what I wanted. I also wanted to use this as another switching move by having a boxcar drop off barrels of lube and other parts. The structure below was too small.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516184009.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183948.jpeg)
More on this structure and the lubritorium tomorrow.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 25, 2016, 07:01:15 PM
More on this structure and the lubritorium tomorrow.
I'm waiting ...... (let me tell ya...it's the pits to wait for the next installment...)
Donato,
Listen my friend, I'm just glad you didn't fall in the "pit" while you were waiting. Wasn't that a little pithy of me?
Tom ;D
Where was I? Oh yea, working on the second structure. However, I want to cover some other things first. Ya'll don't mind do ya?
I painted the lubritortium floor with Floquil Concrete. I'll weather it with chalks and other stains.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516184044.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516184032.jpeg)
I have something in mind for the interior of the lubrirtorium. I'll need to test fit a few things first before I share the idea. If it works, it will be really neat. If it doesn't work then ya'll will not know.
More in a few.
I once again want to give a shout out and thanks to Bob Leonard, RWL, for his thought provoking ideas on the lubritorium. This is what I love about great friends and members of the forum. We tend to put ideas in each others heads. I never considered any kind of storage for the lubes, grease, etc.
The second structure is just that, a separate building for items/materials used in the lubritorium. I made it simple with an office area and added a bay for a boxcar load to be delivered.
Here's a little teaser for Donato.
The photo below shows the underside of the roof of the storage facility.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183828.jpeg)
I covered the top side with the same grit sandpaper as I did with the lubritorium.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183853.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I spray painted both roofs with Floquil Grimy Black and set aside to dry. Once the paint was dry, not cured, I test fit the roofs on both structures.
Here is how they look together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250516183935.jpeg)
I glued the floor pieces in place for the main structure and added the floor bracing for the secondary structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260516183734.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260516183746.jpeg)
That's it for now.
This project is really coming along Tom. So what do you do in your free time. ;)
Tom,
I got caught up on your construction, the lubritorium is looking very nice. I have many ideas. more than you will probably want to know, but I do appreciate your appreciation of the ones I have passed on.
Thank you
Bob
Quote from: S&S RR on May 26, 2016, 09:00:31 PM
This project is really coming along Tom. So what do you do in your free time. ;)
John,
Sorry, I just got back to looking at this thread. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: RWL on June 16, 2016, 12:05:17 PM
Tom,
I got caught up on your construction, the lubritorium is looking very nice. I have many ideas. more than you will probably want to know, but I do appreciate your appreciation of the ones I have passed on.
Thank you
Bob
Bob,
I just got caught up on this thread as well. You have many fantastic ideas and I'd like to hear them, er, at least read them. I have some ideas for it as well I haven't shared as yet.
Thank you for stopping by and for the very kind words.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Just went through the entire thread. It's coming out very nicely. Can't wait to see the finished product. Like the car shop to.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on July 08, 2016, 08:46:23 AM
Hi Tom:
Just went through the entire thread. It's coming out very nicely. Can't wait to see the finished product. Like the car shop to.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much. I'll get back to this with the month.
Tom ;D