It seems that one of the hardest things to do, is to simulate cracked and peeling paint. All sorts of techniques are listed. Some very involved.
What I am going to show, is probably the easiest way I have ever found to do it, and I discovered it quite by accident. Of course, after I thought I had come up with it, I found later that it is a way to antique furniture. Discovered by someone else.
Be that as it may, I found it by a quirk, a fluke, an accident/mistake...
I have not tried this on plastic parts, but I am not a real big fan of plasic in structures. Except of course clear window pane material excluded. Wood or paper are my favorite mediums.
Anyhow, I do digress:
One day, I was using a small piece of stripwood, to spread a bead of white glue more evenly over a broad surface. I set the stick to one side, went to reach for my paint and oops...tipped the bottle and spilled a little. Well, that paint went right onto the glue end of the stick. Not much, but enough. I did not give it much thought till I picked up the stick. What should appear to my wondering eyes, the paint was cracked!!!! WOW!! EPIPHANY!!!!!
From there, I went ahead and did some practice strips and got the same result, every time. Before the glue dries, I would paint over it.
The glue dries under the paint and as it does so, the paint cracks! Many experiments later, I found how to vary the effect.
Step 1. Put the grain into the strip of wood. I use a razor saw.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201554-147221213.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201554-14763709.jpeg)
Step 2. For me, it was gouging the bottom parts of the boards. Aging it and giving it a very rotting and needing replaced look.
Depends on you of course. You can leave this step out if you prefer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201554-14764526.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201554-147651628.jpeg)
Step 3. I will stain it with a very dark A/I mixture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201554-14766347.jpeg)
Step 4. Now I will lay out a bead of white glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201744-147671708.jpeg)
Step 5. Then using my finger or a brush, spread the glue to a thin layer. Try not to get the glue all the way to the top of the board, under the eaves, paint does not crack or peel as much.
At the bottom, I don't let it get into the cuts and gouges that much either. The wood is missing, so goes the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201745-14768925.jpeg)
Step 6. Do not let the glue dry. Take a fairly coarse brush, dip in your favorite color of choice and in "one swipe only" apply your paint.
Do not go back over the paint!! Set aside to dry completely. Let the process do it's thing!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201745-147691602.jpeg)
Step 7. Once completely dry, admire your hard work and realize, this structure will be needing maintenance.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201745-147701944.jpeg)
Step 8. Not finished yet. Now you will using more of your A/I mix, just brush down the piece a couple of times.
This really brings out the cracking detail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201745-14771657.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160716201853-147721407.jpeg)
Here is the engine house window/exterior wall pic again. Each of the planks between the battens, are individual pieces as are the battens themselves.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-140716103341-147151453.jpeg)
You be the judge!!
You can use weathering powders from this point as you see fit. Just go easy. Dirty it up a little, but not much. Just to knock off any sheen that may be present.
Dave
Seattle
Love it , and so easy.
Neat effect.
Jeff
It looks great.....something worth trying. 8)
I like it!!!
Thanks for sharing ;)
Nice tip.
Dave,
Wonderul, wonderful. Thank you for posting "your" idea. It makes we want to grab some wood and build something. I have the perfect structure (s) in mind. While in Boston earlier in the year for the Expo, we had the pleasure of visiting George Sellios F&SM layout. Taking in all the structures, I was struck by all the crossing shanties that he had built for his layout. I took photos of several. This technique would go great. While I am currently heavily involved in scenery at the moment, I might take a break and build a few. thank you for posting your weathering technique.
Frank / Erieman
Thanks everyone for the great responses.
When you try this technique, do some pieces as
Experimentation. That way, you will get the
Feel for it before committing to a structure.
It's not a difficult technique at all.
It started out as an accident!
You will find that wood preparation, goes a long way.
I would love to see examples of those shanties Frank
As well as anyone else's structure uses.
It is a real attention grabber with foreground structures.
Dave
Seattle
Forgot to mention, try the antique glass technique in your period structure
Along with the cracking and peeling paint.
Dave
Seattle
Looks great - another very nice technique to add to my list of things to try. Thanks so much for sharing it.
Dave ...
I gotta try this one
Thanx
Bob
Dave,
I've been following this as well. I can't wait to try the technique. However, like Frank, I'm heavily involved with scenery at the present.
Thanks for sharing this wonderful peeling and cracked paint tutorial.
Tom ;D
Thanks again.
I did want to add a short, probably important piece of info, that
I forgot to put in the thread.
This was not done with solvent based paints. Only water based.
Dave
Seattle
That looks really great. Thanks for sharing with such excellent detail and examples. I'll give it a try (someday :o )
John
Dave, what type of water based paints, latex or vinyl? i.e. if you mix the paint with alcohol does it clump up or just thin down.
Marty
Well, I used to use Polly s. But as goes the dinosaur...
I have used thinned, water based latex. You know, interior house paint.
I can get a lot of different colors at home depot, in small containers.
It works fine. But, I use it mostly as exterior structure color/s. I thin with water only and to the consistency of Polly s. I get the same effect.
Maybe I should do some for the forum with the latex, showing the results.
Giving more exact directions. To the consistency of Polly s is rather ambiguous.
Does/would this help?
Dave
Seattle
Dave, It does help.
What I noticed is that some of the craft paints (aka Micheals, Wal-mart, etc) mix well with alcohol, while others turn into a clumpy mess.
I know Vallejo Model (Vinyl) colour mix with Alcohol, but Model Air does not. I can't remember which craft paints do/don't.
Reaper paints are latex and I have not tried that yet.
Marty
Marty
I have not tried to use a paint thinned with alcohol. Not sure what that would do to the white glue underbase. The reason this works I believe, is that the water based paint does not like to be next to white glue. It causes the paint to separate because of loss of surface tension. Thus giving the cracked paint effect.
Hey, what's it going to cost to experiment with it? You might discover a new way to do something else or even a better cracking effect.
Dave
Seattle
Okay, here it is. A little more detailed explanation with some added photos.
The glue is used undiluted. The amount used actually can vary. Experimentation doesnt cost much and you will find that each board can vary greatly.
I use a 1:1 mix with the paint. Paint to water... but again, do not be afraid to experiment.
These are the required items of course.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-190716074706-147731768.jpeg)
This is a shot of the paint I used. The color just happens to be what I had on hand. I am not affiliated with this company either.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-190716074706-14813927.jpeg)
The way this is done, is shown in the thread up above.
As you can see, the effect will vary with each piece. I did nothing other than what I describe on how this is done. You can vary where you put the glue. If your brush skips, don't worry about it. In this case, perfection is imperfection. Or, is that imperfection is perfection?
I came back in to modify the post...you can also take a dry paper towel and with a pointy corner, just touch the paint and lift it in spots. This will add a lot of detail also.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-190716074706-14814420.jpeg)
Dave
Seattle
Great technique - thank you for sharing it with us.