My next build for the Atlantic and Southern RR is Forley & Co. Lithographers. According to the FOS site, this kit is no longer available. It is kit #60.
It is a background flat structure measuring 11.5 inches wide and 1.25 inches in depth. Of course I plan to change the structure, just a bit.
I hope to start the kit on Sunday afternoon.
I believe Postalkarl and Dr. Jeff (Zepherus52246) both built this kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180517.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180517.jpeg)
It comes with a nice spiral bound 9 page instruction manual.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180530.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180530.jpeg)
Continued in a few
.
Here are a few photos of the goodies.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180541.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180552.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180603.jpeg)
Hi Tom:
Built that one sometime ago. Did mine as the restaurant supply. Will be watching. Let me know if you want a pick of mine.
Karl
Neat structure, Tom.
I did a scratch-build inspired by this design. There is a pic a little way down the link below.
http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32581
Looking forward to your progress.
Cheers, Mark.
I will follow.
Another cool structure to follow.....I will be watching
Jim
Looking forward to your build, Tom.
Vilius
Tom, Count me in on following this build. Will you be building as the kit is designed or making it a 4 sided full building
Mike Sigmon
Quote from: postalkarl on August 05, 2016, 08:43:18 PM
Hi Tom:
Built that one sometime ago. Did mine as the restaurant supply. Will be watching. Let me know if you want a pick of mine.
Karl
Karl,
I knew you built this one and I thought I had a photo but can't find it. Please feel free to post your build photo here.
Oh, thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: mark dalrymple on August 05, 2016, 09:33:35 PM
Neat structure, Tom.
I did a scratch-build inspired by this design. There is a pic a little way down the link below.
http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32581 (http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32581)
Looking forward to your progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Thanks for checking in and posting the link to your build. You did a wonderful job on the scratch build of Forley's. I definitely like your rendition. It just seems to fit your spot perfectly. Thanks for sharing and for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on August 05, 2016, 10:26:29 PM
Another cool structure to follow.....I will be watching
Jim
Butty Jim,
I got my eyes on you as well. Thanks for following.
Tom ;D
Quote from: TheUkranian on August 08, 2016, 11:39:40 AM
Looking forward to your build, Tom.
Vilius
Villius,
Thanks for following and now the pressure is on for sure. I hope it turns out like one of your builds.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MASIGMON on August 08, 2016, 03:37:06 PM
Tom, Count me in on following this build. Will you be building as the kit is designed or making it a 4 sided full building
Mike Sigmon
Hey Mike,
Appreciate you wanting to follow along on the journey. It will be a fun build.
I will definitely modify the structure. It will still be a three sided building flat but I have a change in mind that I'll be sharing later in the thread.
Tom ;D
I'm off to a slower start than I planned. I got side tracked on pouring concrete around the Atlantic and Southern RR station area.
Anyway, prior to opening the box, I was thinking the building presented several different possibilities to modify the look of the building. When I actually opened the box and read the instructions sheet, Doug had already included two additional options for the build.
In the photo below, you can see the three options he has suggested.
The top one, option A is the standard kit build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080816163811.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080816163811.jpeg)
I plan on a modified build of option C. More on that later in the thread. Doug was thoughtful enough to include an extra side wall if the modeler chose either option B or C.
On Doug's model he chose to use Lehigh Valley Cornell Red with Black windows. I like the Cornell
Red look but definitely not the black for the windows, doors and trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050816180517.jpeg)
He uses a light gray for the bottom portion of the walls. I'll go with the Cornell Red for the walls and SP Lettering Gray for the lower wall portions. I'll decide on the windows, doors and trim color later. Probably some form or gray of off white.
I was to lazy to look for my regular Floquil Cornell Red so I'll use the Floquil Polly Scale LV Cornell Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080816170519.jpeg)
You might want to add a bit of white to that Cornell Red, so it doesn't look too overwhelmingly bright. (I had that problem with a building, I painted it bright red and it came out toy-like.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on August 08, 2016, 07:28:02 PM
You might want to add a bit of white to that Cornell Red, so it doesn't look too overwhelmingly bright. (I had that problem with a building, I painted it bright red and it came out toy-like.)
dave
Dave,
I always test the color on some scrap strip wood prior to applying the color to the model wall. Adding white will make the red more of a pink. I don't want pink. The best way to tone down the red is to thin the paint as it is applied followed when dry with a healthy dose of A&I.
I'll post the results of the test piece when done.
Tom ;D
I have come across two other opinions in the past on how to tone down the colors. James Lincoln in one of the podcasts once said to add color from the opposite side of the color wheel. Dave Frary in 200+ or 300+ tips book says to add earth color. I haven't tried any of these tips so use them at your own risk ;D
Vilius
I separated the main wall into two pieces. I used option C as I mentioned earlier.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170029.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170029.jpeg)
After I separated the walls, I carefully sanded the edges of the cut and also the laser cut sides. The laser cuts at a slight angle and I've found that I get a better/tight fit for the corner trim if the sides are flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170042.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170042.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I started adding the bracing to the back of the walls.
I mentioned also I would report back on the LV Cornell Red. Not a color I'll be using. The test pieces below are proof. The sample on the left is out of the bottle and thinned with water. The sample on the right is the Cornell Red applied over a coat of light A&I.
I don't like either shade of the red. Back to the color chart!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170054.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170054.jpeg)
The bracing is still on going. I braced the bottom of the walls and where the interior wall goes, a small section of the brace needed to be removed so the wall would fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170106.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170106.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170118.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090816170118.jpeg)
You can see I cut into the back of the wall just a little. No biggie!
Will be following this along - I've never built one of Doug's kits but I have several on the way - including one that's very similar to this one (Ravenwood Leather).
Thinning red paint will lesson the opacity but not really alter the tone. Adding white produces pink.
One way I've found to avoid ending up with pink is to add tan or earth tone paint instead of white.
Marty
Hi Tom:
Looking good so far. I'll try to post mine today.
Karl
Hi Tom:
Here's mine a J. Richbell Restaurant Supply Co. Hope You like it.
Karl
I consulted with my wife (formally trained artist.) She says "add a very tiny amount of green to the red to tone it down." I think that's the 'complementary color on the Color Wheel' solution.
dave
I built this one a long time ago. Changed it up a bit and added an addition. It covers a "hole" in the backdrop, which is used to turn trains. Can't wait to see what you do with the kit.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
Wow very cool. I saw it when you posted it before. Nice color combo to. Thanks for sharing.
karl
Quote from: CVSNE on August 10, 2016, 09:33:07 AM
Will be following this along - I've never built one of Doug's kits but I have several on the way - including one that's very similar to this one (Ravenwood Leather).
Thinning red paint will lesson the opacity but not really alter the tone. Adding white produces pink.
One way I've found to avoid ending up with pink is to add tan or earth tone paint instead of white.
Marty
Marty,
Thanks for stopping by and for the input. I think I'm gong to another color. I'm thinking of Zinc Chromate for the walls and a gray for the windows and doors.
Tom ;D
Enjoying your thread as always, Tom. Love Doug's background kits. Marty, here's my Ravenwood. It's either Zinc Chromate or Rock Island Maroon, can't recall.
Quote from: postalkarl on August 10, 2016, 05:01:33 PM
Hi Tom:
Here's mine a J. Richbell Restaurant Supply Co. Hope You like it.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for posting your picture of the build. I remember seeing it on the other forum but couldn't find it. This one has been added to my KS file.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on August 10, 2016, 07:51:57 PM
I consulted with my wife (formally trained artist.) She says "add a very tiny amount of green to the red to tone it down." I think that's the 'complementary color on the Color Wheel' solution.
dave
Dave,
Thank you and tell your wife thank you as well. Adding Green, wow, never would have considered that but then I don't have any artistic bones for color in my old body. I'm going to try some green and red but not on this structure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on August 10, 2016, 09:46:59 PM
I built this one a long time ago. Changed it up a bit and added an addition. It covers a "hole" in the backdrop, which is used to turn trains. Can't wait to see what you do with the kit.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
I was correct, you and Karl did build this kit. I remember yours also from the old forum but didn't have a picture. Now, yours is in a file for FOS.
Thanks for posting your Forley build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on August 11, 2016, 09:22:53 AM
Enjoying your thread as always, Tom. Love Doug's background kits. Marty, here's my Ravenwood. It's either Zinc Chromate or Rock Island Maroon, can't recall.
Dave,
Great build, thanks for posting the picture. I really like the Ravenwood flat. I'm confident your walls are Zinc Chromate. Either way, I have both colors to experiment with.
And, thank you for the kind words on my builds, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
I'm always amazed at how my wife can add strange colors to get a match. But she was stumped trying to match -old-Floquil Reefer Yellow.
dave
If anyone is interested, I'll re-post the photos of the build without the narratives. Let me know.
Tom ;D
I think it was yesterday's banter that caused the server to crash.
Quote from: Raymo on August 17, 2016, 08:16:03 PM
I think it was yesterday's banter that caused the server to crash.
I think Raymo is right - it was all those big words you guys were using.
HI Tom:
You are welcome glad I could provide the photo.
Karl
Quote from: Raymo on August 17, 2016, 08:16:03 PM
I think it was yesterday's banter that caused the server to crash.
Okay, you can be derisive if you so desire. However, it wasn't my fault, to a fault. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: S&S RR on August 17, 2016, 08:37:39 PM
Quote from: Raymo on August 17, 2016, 08:16:03 PM
I think it was yesterday's banter that caused the server to crash.
I think Raymo is right - it was all those big words you guys were using.
Here I am, down here in the South, minding my own business, feeling ebullient, and having a little patois with BandOGuy in a waggish way. I'm not sure any big words were used. :-X :-X :-X
Tom ;D
Ebullient - cheerful and full of energy
Patois - a form of language spoken only in a particular area among friends
Waggish - Humorous in a playful manner
Quote from: Raymo on August 17, 2016, 08:16:03 PM
I think it was yesterday's banter that caused the server to crash.
Whatever it was, I'm sure it was Toms' fault.....just ask Slim ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 18, 2016, 08:18:42 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 17, 2016, 08:37:39 PM
Quote from: Raymo on August 17, 2016, 08:16:03 PM
I think it was yesterday's banter that caused the server to crash.
I think Raymo is right - it was all those big words you guys were using.
Here I am, down here in the South, minding my own business, feeling ebullient, and having a little patois with BandOGuy in a waggish way. I'm not sure any big words were used. :-X :-X :-X
Tom ;D
Ebullient - cheerful and full of energy
Patois - a form of language spoken only in a particular area among friends
Waggish - Humorous in a playful manner
Oh boy.....here we go again, but I got nuttin'. :-[
I'm still trying to decipher whatever language you'all are speaking!!
I just started putting the F&SM pictures back in the thread and you guys start with those big words again. Your going to make the server mad.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180816200438.jpeg)
There I will add some real beauty to all those big word posts to cancel them out.