Good afternoon everyone.
This weekend I started SierraWest Quincy Salvage kit, this kit will be part of a larger diorama with O'Neills Fabrication.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155725-156462199.jpeg)
My first step with any kit is to open it up, check out the contents of the box and read the instructions. As with any SierraWest kit this one comes with a ton
of castings. Most are resin some are white metal. They are all crisp and clean and super high quality. It also came with several excellent retaining walls and 2 railroad cars. The instructions are clear and easy to understand. This kit was released in 2003 so it still refers to Floquil and PollyS paints. I will be adapting this kit using more of the techniques from O'Neills, I only plan on using A&I, chalk and water based paints to finish everything.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916160701-156971456.png)
I'm going to try to duplicate the color and weathering of this garage in my neighborhood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155725-1569195.jpeg)
My base color will be a simple A&I wash. I use a 32oz bottle of 70% alcohol and non-waterproof Higgins brand ink. I added 5 Tsp per 32 oz.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155725-156901527.jpeg)
I went to the local craft store and purchased most of the colors of Red they had. They only cost $1.29 each. After a bit of experimentation I found I liked the second from the right Americana Deep Burgundy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155806-156941239.jpeg)
I first textured all the stripwood with a wire brush, then I colored the wood twice with my A&I mix. I used a dunking technique and spread them out of paper towels, very fast and easy technique.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155725-1569217.jpeg)
Before I could add the siding I needed to get the framework built. I colored the studs with A&I and assembled them over the templates. I used a stripwood guide and my chopper to quicken up the process. I was spoiled by O'Neill's laser cut framework. This didn't take me long though.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155725-156932111.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916155806-15695160.jpeg)
I colored the stripwood the same was as I had done on my O'Neill's. I used a semi-wet brush and skimmed over full length boards, then I cut them up with my chopper and mixed them all up before I glued them on. This gave me a random pattern to the siding. Brett Gallant has a video of this technique at http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/videos.html
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-050916162501-15698930.jpeg)
I wasn't crazy about how loud the red was on the walls so I toned everything down with a dusting of Rembrandt chalks. I used several dirt/earth tones. I have a Tupperware container filled with all the rust/dirt/earth colored chalks, I just used the dust from the bottle of the container.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Off to a great start, and it's good to have a local prototype to work from. It looks like the paint under the eaves on your neighborhood garage is in better shape than the more exposed parts of the buildings, that's typical weathering. Also note the wood at ground level is darker, water & mildew stains. It looks like the roof on that garage is a lot newer than everything else :-)
dave
Great start Steve, looking forward to the rest of the build . Might I say that where the reds on the first photo are to hard , imho you dusted just a bit too much on the second photo, something in between maybe , just my 2 cents .
Wow - Another great build to watch! Steve I will be following along - you are off to a great start.
Steve- great work. I, like you, prefer to test many variations of a color before picking one. I also usually do A/I for the base color as most of the untreated weathered wood around here is a grey color rather than brown. I think Jan might be right about a bit much chalk. I also have used the Apple Barrel "Barn Red" with good results as I think it is a little flatter, less bright red. I usually am guilty of too much chalk whenever I try to put it over anything I have already painted and wind up clogging up my "graining".
It's also a lot tougher to get the contrast I want with red over grey than it is using off-white over grey. I love the prototype photo you took, and it's a challenge to match mother nature. You'll do it.
HI Steve:
Looks really great. can't wait to see the structure assembled. that old garage would make a neat model also.
Karl
My popcorn and diet pepsi are ready....so am I....
Keep going Steve.
Cool kit.
Red is hard to pin down sometimes. So far it's looking good.
Jaime
Thanks for the comments and suggestions everyone, I ended up playing around with the colors a bit. I'm taking it in a more grimy dirty direction I think. This is the lower wall of a salvage yard so I think the siding should be pretty terrible looking.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-070916220325-156991422.jpeg)
I cleaned some of the chalk off, chewed up the bottom of the boards a bit and added some moisture wicking up the lower boards.
Let me know what you think
-Steve
Great balanced of grime and aged paint. The red color shines though at just the right levels.
I have to get back to working on Glass for structures. much easier to work on than my crappy green slicing mat...
Hi Steve:
That is coming out very nicely. I will be following along.
Karl
Steve
Very nicely done! I love this technique because you can go back and take another run at it if you want to change the results. I think you nailed it with this change.
Thanks Darryl, Karl and John.
Darryl, I got this particular piece of glass from Ikea. It's a piece of a coffee table. They have several sizes the most expensive is about $60
John, that's the great thing about chalks. They are very easy to modify the results of you go too far.
-Steve
Steve,
That's awesome! Thanks for providing the step by step and all the photo's. There's some great stuff here. Thanks to everyone else who chimed in with tips and suggestions too. :D
Thanks Bob
Good afternoon everyone.
I finished adding the siding to the walls this weekend. I also added the windows to the main building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170748-157331198.jpeg)
The bottom floor was built over studs, the second floor is done over cardstock. I follow the same method as the lower portion then I glued them together. The lower floor will have a full shop interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170749-158461332.jpeg)
I framed out the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170749-158472323.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170749-15848354.jpeg)
I added the windows in place. I colored the windows a little different from the siding. Instead of using Brett's wet brushing method I use a stiff brush and use a blotting type technique to apply uneven paint. This kit does not have laser cut acetate for the windows so it took a little bit longer to add and detail all the glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170749-15849514.jpeg)
Other side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170917-15850762.jpeg)
Close up of the window detail. It's difficult to see the cracks in the glass against the white background.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170917-158512158.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170917-158521328.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170917-15853407.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-110916170917-158541934.jpeg)
Here are all the walls side by side. It took a bit of effort to get the weathering even across all 4 walls.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
I made up a sign for the side wall to match the signs on O'Neills. My plan is to have evidence that the yard used to be Quincy Salvage but was purchased by the neighboring O'Neills Fabrication Co. I will probably make some signage labeled for Quincy's and add it to the trash pile behind one of the sheds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-130916215100-158551280.jpeg)
This is just a mock up, nothing is glued down yet. Let me know your opinions on it.
-Steve
Steve, the sign and the planking look fantastic, but just an idea for a obviously capable modeler like yourself...how about some kind of stenciled faded painted sign? I could imagine that really showing off the broken and weathered woodwork beneath. Just a thought...plus I'd like to see how it's done ::)
John
Thanks John. I have plans to use a stencil on the smaller shed, I didn't want to overdo it.
-Steve
Hello everyone, it's time for my weekly update.
I colored all the doors and glued them in place, added the signs and glued the walls together this weekend.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916234932-160172056.jpeg)
The door castings are white metal. To get them to blend with the rest of the siding I primed them with light tan camo spray, followed by 2 coats of a&i. I painted them with the same color as the walls only I dabbed paint on with a large stiff brush instead of brushing it on, this gave me a slightly inconsistent color. I followed everything with the same chalks I used to weather the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916234933-160921680.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916234933-16093111.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916234933-16094485.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916234933-160951650.jpeg)
This awning is a very cool detail. I will weather it a bit more once it dries completely. Its made of tissue paper and it's very fragile.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916235017-160961948.jpeg)
I got all the walls glued together. This is one of my favorite stages in a build, I get to start to see how everything looks together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916235017-16097473.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-180916235017-16098921.jpeg)
I'm going to put a hold on the build for the little while to participate in the forum build challenge. I'm probably going to build something small that I can finish quickly, I'm thinking the older stone base FSM water tank.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
The awning looks great Steve, it could rip apart every moment.
Great build Steve! I love all of the details you've been adding. I'll be following along on your progress.
The way you got the windows to match the walls is amazing. The awning is cool as well.
Jeff
Thanks Jan, Mark and Jeff
Steve,
The walls and awning are stunning. Most excellent.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Excellent work so far Steve.
Once finished will be a great one ;)
Thanks Pol.lux
Hello everyone. After my diversion building the FSM water tank I got back to the bench for this kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212230-16484682.jpeg)
Next step was building this storage shed. I colored the walls with 2 coats of A&I, once everything was attached I dusted all the walls with Rembrandt 408.3 mixed with a few other shades of brown. The structure has no interior details, its build over a cardstock core so it was pretty quick to assemble.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212230-16610912.jpeg)
The rear of the shed. I plan to have a large bin or tire rack to the left of the door so I didn't add any signs to that side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212230-166111745.jpeg)
Left side wall. All of the walls have a good amount of moisture wicking up the bottom of the boards. I just used A&I with a touch of chalk powder and I just touched at the board ends, it wicked up naturally on it's own.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212231-166122421.jpeg%5Bimg%5D%3Cbr%20/%3EI%20used%20the%20stencil%20from%20the%20O'Neills%20oil%20tank%20to%20add%20lettering%20to%20this%20wall.%20I%20will%20add%20some%20more%20details%20to%20the%20wall%20but%20I%20need%20to%20think%20about%20it%20some.%20I%20didn't%20like%20the%20way%20it%20looked%20with%20a%20bunch%20of%20signs%20around%20the%20lettering.%20It%20needs%20something%20though.%3Cbr%20/%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttps://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212251-16614641.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212251-16614641.jpeg)
Close-up of the left side wall
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-300916212231-166132227.jpeg)
Close up of the lettering. I didn't spray this one, I used Ivory craft paint dabbed on with a very stiff flat brush. I tried to make sure I didn't cover the wood grain.
Next step is roof. I'm going to try a few new things for this roof.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Wow! Terrific work Steve ;)
WOW ! you are good at this
I like the windows, especially the broken one.
Jim
Thanks Pol.ux, Candy and Jim
Hi Steve:
All I can say Is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I especially like how the red walls came out with the faded paint.
Karl
Thanks Karl.
I made some progress on the roof this week.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222638-16687754.jpeg)
I cut a few sections out of the roof card to give me a few areas to simulate blown off shingles. I used 2x10s to simulate the sub-roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222639-167781105.jpeg)
I used the same method as my FSM water tank and O'Neills Fabrication for the shingles. Slow and steady, even a worn out roof should have pretty straight shingle rows.
I glued one row on and then jumped the other side. I used as much carpenters glue as I could get away with. I don't want the wire brushing and alcohol to pull the shingles up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222639-167792498.jpeg)
Moving along..
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222639-167802399.jpeg)
The most challenging part about the cedar shakes is always the ridge cap. I prefer the look of the shingled cap over boards even though both would be prototypical.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222639-167811078.jpeg)
This is the wire brush I used to put some texture into the shingles. I got pretty aggressive with it and none of them came free. I also used a X-acto #11 blade to slice some grain into some of the the shingles especially at the missing areas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222824-167821738.jpeg)
I applied my first wash of alcohol and chalks. I used a few different colors. The main purpose behind this wash was the get some color in between the shingles and on the edges. I soaked the roof in alcohol to make sure the color got everywhere. I let the glue on the shingles dry a full 24 hours before I did any weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222824-167831361.jpeg)
I added a coating of some dry chalks. Color is getting where I would like it but it's not quite there yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222825-167841747.jpeg)
Here is a view from the other side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222825-167852213.jpeg)
I added some drybrushing of white and gray craft paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222825-167861845.jpeg)
Here is a lower shot showing the roof texture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222900-1678744.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016225653-167901115.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016225653-1679155.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222900-167882330.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061016222900-167892224.jpeg)
I was concerned about my placement of the lettering but it ended up in a pretty good spot.
Does anyone know of a source for laser cut lettering? Maybe a way to order custom precut stencils?
Now that I have all of the buildings roughed out I can start figuring out how I will combine O'Neills Fabrication with O'Neills Salvage. Between the 2 kits I have about 1000 castings that need to be painted also. One thing about Sierra West kits is they come with a huge amount of really great detail castings. I also need to detail the interior of the main red building.
Thanks for checking in. I really appreciate the feedback, it keeps me motivated knowing people are following along.
-Steve
Really nice work Steve, you are nailing it :)
Beautiful work on the buildings, Steve. The signs/shingles/weathering are all perfect.
Jeff
Steve
It looks great - first class modeling!
Steve,
Fantastically weathered old structure. Absolutely wonderful modeling.
Tom ;D
Steve
WOW, That is superb modeling with the everything you have done.
Hi Steve:
Really great job so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Steve,
That shed is just terrific. Love the coloring of the boards and the roof. Love the ratty condition of the whole structure.
Frank
Looks fantastic, Steve! The ridge capping is well worth the extra effort.
Cheers, Mark.
The shingles look great Steve.... :)
Stay cool and run steam..... 8) 8)
Thanks for the nice compliments everyone!
Hi Steve:
Wow your in Perkasie and I'm in Lansdale. Didn't know you were that close. We will; have to get together.
Karl
Sounds good Karl. Lansdale is not far at all from me.
Steve
Very nice job on the shingles and weathering and the bare spots make it stand out.
Thanks Jim.
I played with the building configurations and added a floor to the barn this week. I also built a Jordan kit to be worked on inside the shed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161016222608-170191814.jpeg)
This is a little bit more how everything will sit, I think I'm going to raise the Quincys storage shed up 1/2 inch and the area around it. The elevations are too extreme to me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161016222608-171692291.jpeg)
I added the flooring to the main barn, I also added some oil stains on the floor. I just used floquil graphite paint spread out in a teardrop pattern, I dirtied it up with some chalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161016222608-17170296.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161016222609-1717189.jpeg)
I built this Jordan 1928 Model A kit to go inside the barn right over that oil stain. This is the first Jordan I've built in a long time and the first plastic kit in a long time. I forgot how challenging these kits are. I was using the wrong glue in the beginning, I pressed on the car and it feel apart. I ended up getting some Tamiya plastic cement and things went a bit smoother. This is the first rag/towel I've ever done, I used the technique I learned from a few guys on the SierraWest forum and it was very easy. I separated a Kleenex to single ply, cut it to size, then I added a drop of paint thinner and a drop of Floquil Oxide Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161016222609-1717296.jpeg)
This is a mock up of how it'll look once it's installed in the barn. The jackstands are Brett's castings left over from The Shipyard I think. This whole area will be a huge mess of tools and rags. I was a mechanic for 10 years, I know exactly how this mess should look.
Thanks for checking in,
-Steve
That is some fantastic work!
John
Quote from: Cuse on October 16, 2016, 10:31:25 PM
That is some fantastic work!
John
I agree with John, fantastic stuff here.
Tom ;D
Steve
It looks great. It's all about the details.
Thanks for the compliments everyone. Lots of castings to paint before I can move forward.
-Steve
I started moving on finishing the details for the interior of the shop. I've had some challenges taking pictures of the interior, I need to do some research how to take a clearer overshot picture. I can't seem to get both the front and rear details in focus. My details are coming up pretty dark as well. For me painting and adding the details is always the slowest part of a build, I added some of the details but it's far from finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065334-175041371.jpeg)
Here is a workbench casting, so much cool detail on this one. Everything is painted with the Reaper SW set and weathered with chalk and/or A&I. Brett has some of the finest castings in the hobby.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065334-17588716.jpeg)
I added some legs with scale 4x4s and the cross braces are scale 2x4s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065334-17589770.jpeg)
This is one of my favorite details. I added the small drive belt using masking tape painted black. The oil stain is Floquil Graphite. Most of the castings in the interior of the barn are from my castings bin, I didn't want to use any of the SW castings from the kit on the interior due to the fact I plan on closing it up. It will only be visible from the door openings. I believe this is one of Brett's castings but it didn't come with this kit, maybe a left over from The Shipyard or Foss Landing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065335-175901339.jpeg)
The other workbench casting, painted and weathered the same as the other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065335-175911525.jpeg)
Here you can see the long workbench in place. I still need to add some details to the walls and under the workbenches. The rags on the floor are made from Kleenex painted with Floquil Boxcar Red. The wrenches are laser cut wood from Vectorcut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065500-175921262.jpeg)
Here is the other side view. The floor jack is from Evergreen Hill Designs I believe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065500-17593266.jpeg)
The other workbench installed on the back wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-291016065500-17594320.jpeg)
Here is a overhead shot. I added some debris to the top of the car, the canvas tarp was made using a Kleenex and Floquil Depot Buff. I wanted to make the car extra dirty and give the impression it hasn't moved in some time. The second floor will not be visible once everything is put together. Many more details to add before I close it up.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Great job on painting/weathering the castings and the car.
Jeff
Steve,
Wonderful job on the details. I'll have to give the Kleenex and paint trick for the tarp a try. Thanks for sharing the tips and photos.
Tom ;D
The details are very nicely done Steve. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
WOW Steve, great details.
Steve
Looks great - I love the details. I can talk you through taking a photograph with enough depth of field to pick up front and back details if you send me a PM with your phone number I will give you a call. Or if you have an iPhone just point and click it's Apple and it just works. The clever thing about the phone technology is the depth of field because the camera lens is mounted right on top of the digital sensor you get great depth of field. Anyway great modeling.
Thanks everyone. I have an IPhone 6 Plus I'll try to some photos with that. I'll let you know if I need some help John thanks.
WoW!! That's a beauty ;)
The level of detail is great, very well done!
Thanks Pol.lox.
I spent some time reading about how to properly use my camera, it's a Canon EOS Rebel T3i 600d. I sorted out the depth issues I was having by adjusting the aperture way up and mounting the camera on a tripod. Here are some of the results, let me know what you think.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-301016201909-175952277.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-301016201909-177721575.jpeg)
-Steve
They look great Steve. The tripod is a must with the longer exposures required when you get down to f22. I use a Cannon 50D that I spent lots of money on a few years back. Your iPhone will take as good or better photographs of your models. I use my SLR for outside scenery pictures, but the iPhone is the camera of choice for me when I'm taking pictures of models.
The photography is fascinate...like your build :) :) :)
I always shot my modeling photos with the SLR, using a tripod too, and is a very good option. You only need to take care about choice a correct white balance.
Thanks guys. I plan on doing some outside shots when I get a nice day.
Steve,
Very nice job. I only wish I had enough patience for one of the Brett's kits.
When it comes to the photos I like controllable environment i.e. indoors with the lights.
Vilius
Thanks Vilius. Brett's kits don't require any more patience than any craftsman kit, in a lot of ways they are easier than most. Everything is very well engineered for the best results with the least frustration.
-Steve
Very nice.
Both weathering and detail work together perfectly.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry.
Hi Steve:
Very well done. Nice job on the castings.
Karl
Thanks Karl
Good morning everyone. I made some more progress detailing the interior of the barn, I'm almost done I believe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061116064545-1795050.jpeg)
I needed something big for the other side but most of the detail will be difficult to see when the roof is on. I had a Woodland Scenics tractor kit on my shelf, it was perfect for the inside of the shed. The castings in the kit aren't the best quality but good enough for a background area. I added a few other castings to the area as well. The oil spill under the tractor is just Floquil graphite paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061116064545-179481186.jpeg)
This is mostly the angle you will be able to see that area of the interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061116064625-179521423.jpeg)
I needed something above the workbench on the left of the car. I made this using a couple strips of wood and some laser cut wood details from VectorCut. The VectorCut details are very nice but very fragile. I damaged a few trying to get them off the sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061116064625-17953308.jpeg)
Here is the board installed above the workbench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-061116064625-179542224.jpeg)
This is the view you will see when the roof is closed up.
Thanks for checking in, next step is adding a few small details and figuring out the lighting.
-Steve
That looks amazing.
Jim
Steve,
Really nice work coloring the wood on your build and using that texture brush tip on the roofing shingles. Like the Vector cut tools for that extra detail.
Tommy
Simply.....a beauty :)
Thanks Jim, Tom and Pol.lux
I finished the ceiling for the barn workshop and I added some lighting to the interior. This was my first experiment with scale lighting, I consulted Alan's thread on the SierraWest forum for some advice and I used some of his methods and I modified them a bit. http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/778/lighting-clinic
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116142918-180601529.jpeg)
I made the ceiling from some scribed siding I had around and used scale 2x10s for the joists. I matched the spacing with the side wall framework. Most of it will not be easily seen so I'm didn't go overboard with detailing the wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116142918-18068345.jpeg)
Here it is installed in the barn, no lights added of course. The ceiling will be removable
but not easily. I want to be able to service the lights but I won't be taking the roof off to show the interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116142918-180691479.jpeg)
For my lights I used some micro leds pre-wired I purchased on Ebay. They are incredibly small and still very bright. The lampshade is from Ngineering, its the larger HO 24" one.
I drilled a small hole in the center about the same diameter as the inside of the tubing. The tubing is Ultra-Thin .032 OD tubing from Ngineering. Its slightly large for HO but not excessive and it works very well for the interior. The wires ran through the tubing with a little bit of work but it wasn't terribly difficult.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116142918-18070193.jpeg)
This LED is very small. I don't have the patience to solder one this small. The set I bought on Ebay came from China and they cost me $8.00 for 20 leds pre-wired.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116142918-180711125.jpeg)
This is how I fed everything through the ceiling.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143027-180721980.jpeg)
I didn't want to solder the LED wires together so I made this little circuit board using copper tape from Microlumina. I think this is a simple way to wire everything and it's pretty easy to diagnose a problem. I wired all the lights in series, I originally had a current limiter in the circuit but it made the lights far too dim. I should be safe with the 4 LEDs in series with no resistor. Each LED is 3v so 3v x 4 = 12v and I'm using a 12 power supply. I may add a small resistor to darken the lights a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143027-180732050.jpeg)
I left lots of lead wire on everything and I just taped it down with electrical tape. I will cover everything with black construction paper so you can see the wires from the upper windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143027-18074891.jpeg)
Here is how the lights look installed. They are a tad bright, maybe out of scale brightness but they do a good job showing off the interior so I may leave them bright.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143027-180751433.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143028-180761944.jpeg)
If you look in the very corner of this picture you can see were I ran the wires down the wall. I heatshrinked the wires together and painted them black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143056-18077431.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143056-180781221.jpeg)
The lights really bring the interior to life. I have to give credit to Alan (nextceo on the SierraWest forum) for inspiring me to do it right, the lights in his repair shed were the inspiration for me to take the time and make it as real as I could.
Thanks for checking in. Next step is the roof.
-Steve
Looking great Steve, your detailing , weathering , lighting just great.
Thanks Jan
Fantastic. Top to bottom! Thumbs way up!
John
That looks terrific Steve. :D :D :D
You can tone down the lights a bit by painting the LED's with Tamiya Color Acrylic Paint X-24 Clear Yellow. One of more coats will reduce the brightness just a tad and take the edge off of the harsh white that some LED's produce.
Steve,
Care to give up the China source. It certainly would save time getting them pre-wired. I mentioned to Slim and Reading Bob that I wanted about 75 pre-wired micro LEDs and they just looked at me. ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 19, 2016, 06:08:16 PM
Steve,
Care to give up the China source. It certainly would save time getting them pre-wired. I mentioned to Slim and Reading Bob that I wanted about 75 pre-wired micro LEDs and they just looked at me. ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Good question Tom, I was going to ask the same thing.
Here is an Ebay link. I have order some like these in the past. They actually have smaller ones if you look through some of the sellers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-pcs-Pre-Wired-Cold-White-0603-SMD-LEDs-Lighting-Kits-Pre-soldered-Micro-LEDs-/401035299351?hash=item5d5f910a17:g:aT0AAOSwJcZWcr3T
Thanks everyone.
Here is a link to the same leds from the same supplier. The price changes a bit from auction to auction. Still pretty cheap. I think they are 0402 bulbs. I bought a bunch of bigger Leds for lighting unfinished interiors also, they came with prewired resistors
https://www.ebay.com/itm/151901572329
They took a while to get here, about 2 weeks.
Readingbob, I painted the leds with Gallery Glass but it may help to add some color to tone them down. I used the gallery glass to give them a bulb shape but it was clear so it didn't do much to tone them down. Thanks for the tip I'll give it a try.
-Steve
Steve,
Thanks for the info on the LEDs. I saw the auction from WEHONEST but wasn't sure about the size. They look a little bigger in the add. But they do fit inside the lamp reflector so I'll give them a try and see how they are.
I've already ordered on pack from them.
Thanks again.
Tom ;D
Here's a US source for prewired LEDs. Different sizes (explained) and different voltages. I've bought them, used them and they're great.
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/
Nice job on Quincys.
Geo2rge aka timbob60
I can vouch for Wehonest, have had several LED strips and power supplies from them , never disappointed, fast shipping and at no cost.
Very nice model and great detailing.I shall take inspiration for colouring my own build. Thanks
Thanks everyone.
I made some progress on the roof over the weekend. I was torn over what type of roof I wanted, I thought about doing diamond shaped shingles but I thought it would be a little much for a run down barn so I decided to stick with the kit recommendation and go with some tarpaper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-211116205134-182261367.jpeg)
I glued some scale 1x10s right on the cardstock roof card, then I used paper sprayed with gray primer cut into 1/2" strips for the tarpaper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-211116205134-182271006.jpeg)
More of the same.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-211116205134-18228602.jpeg)
I added some patches, drybrushed white over the roof followed by some chalk dusting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-211116205134-182292147.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-211116205206-182301818.jpeg)
I turned the lights on, I thought to light escaping from between the boards looked very cool.
Thanks for checking in. Next step is a sign for the roof and some other roof details I haven't decided on yet.
-Steve
The roof and lighting are great! Thanks for the progress photos. I may have to try some of these pre-wired LEDs. They really do make the inside come to life.
Thanks Mark, they really make lighting much easier.
It looks great Steve! Really enjoying your thread.
Thanks John
I added the sign to the roof today. I made the sign on Serif DrawPlus, same as the other sign for this building. I glued it to a few pieces of stripwood and built a simple roof support. I copied the style and design of the roof sign on O'Neills Fabrication main building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-221116221304-182311537.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-221116221304-182372251.jpeg)
Here is the front with the lights on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-221116221304-18238293.jpeg)
Here is the rear of the sign showing the supports.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Hi Steve,
This is some awesome work. Thanks for the great build thread!
Thanks Bobby.
I was pretty unhappy with how the roof sign looked, the lines really conflicted with the sagging roof peak so I removed it. I covered up the glue marks with some tarpaper patches and chalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-241116102919-182391054.jpeg)
I added this cool little sign above the door. The frame is made from a casting supplied with the kit. The sign itself is stripwood and a graphic I made in Serif DrawPlus. The original called for a dry transfer of Quincy Salvage. The small details in Sierra West kits are what really makes them fantastic. I'll be stealing this sign idea for future models.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-241116102919-182541652.jpeg)
The pipe is a casting supplied in the kit, I blackened it with JAX Pewter Black and dusted it with chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-241116102919-182552015.jpeg)
I added the smoke stack to the rear of the building. It was made with a piece of styrene tubing spray painted with dark gray primer and dusted with chalks.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Beautiful work, love the roof.
Tom ;D
Hi Steve:
Love the colors on the walls and the roof looks great to.
Karl
Thanks Tom, Thanks Karl
Dang Steve this build just gets better and better, awesome job so far.
Thanks Jim
Beautiful work Steve....that "sway back" roof really stands out.
Simply Amazing.
Eric Quebec city
Thanks Donato and Eric.
I'm working on painting all the castings for both kits. Several hundred of them.
-Steve
Quote from: EricQuebec on November 25, 2016, 12:49:57 PM
Simply Amazing.
Eric Quebec city
I'll second that 8) 8) 8) 8)
Jim
Thanks Jim
Just catching up here. Nice job Steve!
My feelings aren't hurt if people buy pre-wired Chinese LEDs. It's a fact of life anymore and there's no competing on that front. I think my lighting clinics are a little easier to understand than theirs though.
-slim
Thanks Slim. I bought one of your lighting starter kits at the 2014 Expo and I use different things from it all the time. I've used several of the bigger LEDs to light the interior of some models, I just don't have the patience to wire these really tiny ones up. At least not when they are so cheap from China.
A little update today, I started moving along with all the castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215834-182562426.jpeg)
I sorted all the castings into different basecoats. I like to use Rust-Oleum Camouflage Sand for castings representing wood, Camo Black for any resin castings representing metal and I use JAX Pewter Black to patina any castings representing metal that are white metal. Several hundred castings here, Brett's kits always have a ton of the highest quality castings and since I'm combining 2 kits for this diorama I have twice as much.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215835-184582331.jpeg)
I put all barrels and drums on toothpicks. I just drilled a small hole with a dremel, I didn't glue the toothpicks in, the taper held them in place good enough for me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215835-18459368.jpeg)
Here is an overall shot after priming everything. It took me quite a few hours to get to this point. I let everything dry overnight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215835-184601173.jpeg)
I'm still getting the hang of photographing the smaller detail parts clearly. This drum was painted with Boxcar Red and Bone from the SW paintset. They are Reaper Miniatures paints. After a few coats of paint I dipped the casting in alcohol and smacked it with a wire brush, Brett has a video describing this technique on his website.
I then dusted the casting with chalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215835-184611539.jpeg)
This casting was weathered the same way only I used Meadow Green instead of Boxcar Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215904-18462197.jpeg)
This tank was weathered the same way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-011216215904-18463588.jpeg)
This barrel was weathered with A&I and dusted with chalk. The band was painted with Burnt Umber craft paint. I used SW Grimy Black for the gears followed by a drybrushing of SW Tarnished Steel. In the past I painted details representing metal with Old Silver or similar paint, I was never real happy with the results, I found painted them gray or black and drybrushing silver on the edges makes them look much more realistic to me. The bottle is SW Meadow Green.
I'm learning a bit about weathering and painting castings, I'm also getting some good practice. The SW website has a few really good tutorials from Kevin O'Neill and Karl Allison describing the techniques I've been using. I've built kits from most manufacturers and nobody beats Brett when it comes to quantity and quality of castings.
Hopefully by the time I'm done all these castings my skills will improve a bit.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Nice tutorial on the detail parts painting. I may (since I'm a bit dense these days) have learned a thing or two.
I knocked out most of the casting painting over the last 2 weeks. These kits come with some of the finest castings I've ever seen. The detail is incredible. Lots of castings too. All castings were painted using the SW paint set from Reaper. The kit is for sale on Brett's website.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222904-18720656.jpeg)
Here is the different piles of finished castings. Lots of cool details here. I took a few close up shots of some of my favorite castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222905-187461232.jpeg)
This tall water tank is one of my favorites. The wood grain detail in the casting is unbelievable. The casting is resin, I primed it with khaki spray paint. I added a wash of A&I, painted the bands with SW Roof Brown and the metal paint was done with SW Grimy Black. I dusted everything with brown colored chalks of various colors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222905-18747921.jpeg)
The scale face was done by downloading a picture of a scale from the internet, making it super small and cutting it out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222905-18748294.jpeg)
This is the picture I used.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222905-187491619.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222944-187502016.jpeg)
I plan to have this one sitting outside so I added extra grime on the bottom. I figured a wooden cabinet outdoors in a salvage yard would be pretty grimy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222944-18751342.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222944-187521664.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-151216222944-187531512.jpeg)
I have a few mini scenes to finish then I'll be starting to scenic the diorama. Hopefully make some more progress this weekend.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Beautiful job on the castings Steve. For a moment I thought the bench scale was also a casting and couldn't believe the detail ;D
Thanks Jan.
Steve...
Hey that's my trick ! ! !
Stealing stuff off of the internet and making them really little. That is how I made the gauge dial for the Falk loco.
That is great detail stuff.
thanx
Bob