I'm going to build the SRMW kit Hilltown Entrepreneurs for the building challenge. I chose this because I have the perfect spot for it on the layout. Whenever I leave the "man cave" this is the view I get. Every time I clean it off, stuff magically reaccumulates within minutes. Must be layout gnomes! ;D I'm a slow builder, but since I'm only working 3 or 4 day weeks at the new job, I think I can get at least one of the buildings done (it's a two building kit). ::)
Jeff
The classic opening the box picture. Siding/some stripwood, windows, roofing, details, templates, etc.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Looking forward to following along with this ambitious adventure. It's funny how any flat, clear surface attracts stuff like that. I never knew wood had magnetic properties. ;D
I started by perusing through the instructions. I've started building and bracing the walls. I start by sanding the edges of the clapboard walls to insure they are square to eliminate the kerf the laser leaves. This is mentioned in the instructions. And I always follow instructions. ::) Some of the walls are a combination of clapboard and laserboard and/or chipboard.
Jeff
Glad to have you aboard, Bob. ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
I'm with you not only on the build but I also have gnomes in my man cave. Dang things put stuff all over the layout and even put stuff on top of other stuff so I can't find much at all.
Of course, I find it all when I'm looking for something else I can't find.
Tom ;D
South River kits are way fun to build.
Jaime.
Jeff
Great choice for the challenge - I will be following along. I've never seen this many builds going on at one time. The forum is alive and well.
Following along .
I'll be watching.
I'll also be watching.
Thanks for following along, guys. After bracing, I spray the backs of the walls with flat black. This should help eliminate warping when paint/stains are applied to the front, and it blacks out the interior if viewed thru the windows. I next stained the fronts with two coats of Hunterline light gray weathering mix. Then I dry brushed Sandstone acrylic paint (Apple Barrel) and then White (Ceramcoat). I used this on the SRMW Myers and Son build years ago and liked the way it looked. The lower pick shows stained only on the left, then sandstone in the center and then the white on the right. Got a lot more walls to do. :)
Jeff
I'll be watching also Jeff.....I have this kit in the stash and hope it won't be too long until I can get around to building it. ;D
Dr. Jeff picked a challenge for the challenge.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 19, 2016, 05:59:52 PM
Dr. Jeff picked a challenge for the challenge.
Tom ;D
OH MAN, did he ever 8) 8) 8)
Jim
I have complete faith in Dr. Jeff.
John, you have more faith in me than I do myself. ::) I haven't posted in a few days and I'm halfway down the second page of builds, which is great. I cut the windows off the sprues and filed the edges and cleaned out the few panes that had flash in them. Filed the metal door edges square and smooth as well. Washed them all and prepared them for airbrushing. First I needed to clean the airbrush. It didn't work well the last time I used it (over a year ago). I got some new parts and a "cleaning kit" from Iwata at the NMRA show last year, and finally used it. I also put the parts (and the lower half the airbrush) in an ultrasonic cleaner. It sprays thinner well, we'll see how it does with pain. :o I also needed to pick trim colors. The kit has the smaller building being yellow with brown trim and the larger one white with green trim. SRMW used all craft paints for this. I'm using the same yellow, but I've picked the green and brown (mine is more a zinc oxide brown) from my Vallejo colors. I can airbrush and regular brush this way. I'm not brave enough to airbrush the craft paints. ::) I painted some greens on the card to see how they would look with the white and picked one.
I needed to lay out the windows for painting. Some of them need to be glued together to make larger windows. I also went thru the instructions several times to make sure I didn't mix up the windows, and I have a couple of extra windows. I'm not complaining. ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
Well, looks like you are off to a smooth start. Your colors should be fine.
Tom ;D
Well, the airbrushing took a lot longer than it should have. I watched a video where someone mixed his color right in the airbrush cup. He used backpressure (hold your finger over the end of the airbrush and hit the air). The mixture bubbles up and mixes. I did the red first. I put in thinner and then some color. I think it was too thin as it took a lot of spraying to get color. Then I kind of over applied it and it took awhile to dry. Looked OK, though. Then I did the green. I used less thinner, then put in the green. The paint went to the bottom and didn't mix. When I backsprayed the paint went back into the airbrush. Of course, not even air came out then. So I took the whole thing apart and cleaned it. I won't do that again! Mixed the color up and sprayed and it sprayed OK, but the color isn't quite what I brush painted onto the card as you can see in the picture. The green blob blow the green on the card is what the color is supposed to be. The red is a bit lighter, too (you can see the darker red between the red and green cards). I'll have to see how the green looks slightly diluted when I paint it on the doors, or I'll have to overpaint the windows with a brush, which kinda defeats the purpose of airbrushing it to start with. I also forgot the paint doesn't stick to metal parts without priming. ::) At least it washed right off the door.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
I wil be following alone as I like to see South River kits get built. I'm sure you will do a great jolb with it.
Karl
Jeff,
The video you are referring to is most likely one from Trainmasters TV. The technique worked for me. I used Floquil though.
I am looking forward to your build.
Vilius
Again, I don't post for a week and I'm way down on page 2 of the builds. It's great having this many builds going on at once. Next up for the walls are the nailholes. I won't get into the pro/con argument here, but I think they add a little more detail, especially to a run down structure like this one will be. I use the Monster Nailer from MonsterModelWorks for this. They don't make them anymore, unfortunately. I spaced them 2 feet apart on the walls, using the square. Next up is using a #11 blade to make some individual board cuts. Then using the nailer again on each side of the cut. I then lift some of the boards with a #15 chisel blade. I use the tiny forceps (tweezers) to remove any bristles that remain on the wall from the drybrusing. One wall down, oodles to go.
Jeff
Jeff
Your build is coming along just fine. I'm finding that I use my airbrush less and less. The Vallejo paints brush on so well that it just isn't worth the time to clean the air brush. It's to bad Monster isn't making their nailer any more - I use mine all the time. Especially for the nails at the ends board ends.
Thanks, John. I think my main problem with the airbrush is I only use it once a year or so and forget everything I've ever learned about it. ::) I stained all the stripwood with the light grey Hunterline stain and painted a piece with the green paint and it was much darker than the windows, so I've over painted them. You can see the stripwood compared with the now mostly overpainted windows here. I think I will sponge paint some grey over them to weather them as well.
Jeff
Way to go Dr. Jeff!
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 06, 2016, 10:05:20 PM
Thanks, John. I think my main problem with the airbrush is I only use it once a year or so and forget everything I've ever learned about it. ::) I stained all the stripwood with the light grey Hunterline stain and painted a piece with the green paint and it was much darker than the windows, so I've over painted them. You can see the stripwood compared with the now mostly overpainted windows here. I think I will sponge paint some grey over them to weather them as well.
Jeff
I like the darker green better.
Jeff
I agree with John with the darker green is better.
Just got the kit the other day. Will be very interested in watching your build.
I can't do a build challenge yet, since I'm doing a 1:1 build of the bench work.
Hi Jeff:
Good Progress. I still following along.
Karl
Thanks for following, guys. I've used a sponge to lightly put some of the Sandstone and Grey paint on the windows and doors. The first pic shows a laser cut piece that goes on one of the walls. This is where laser cutting really helps, it would have been a pain to build this with stripwood. I stained it with the Hunter's stain, then the green, then grey paint sponged on. I think it will all tie together with an A&I wash. The second pic shows a couple of windows and a door as well as the laser cut piece fitted. I'm going to do the A&I before the window glass is applied, but I need to size and cut the window glass first.
Jeff
Jeff looks good coming along nicely.
Looking good Jeff. Thanks for all of the progress photos.
Nice paint job Jeff
Thanks, Jan, Mark and Jim. :) I've cut out most of the windows. I'll show how I install them later today (I hope). I've applied a black wash to the walls. I made up a new batch of A&I, one teaspoonful of india ink (5ml) to a pint (474ml) of alcohol. While mixing it, I noticed the "snap cap" leaked, so I poured it into an old, nearly empty alcohol bottle. :o I used the wall which will be in the back of the building when place on the layout. I have had problems in the past with the A&I lifting the paint, and it happened again here. This didn't occur on my last build, because the paint was dry for 6 months (!) until I got back to it. I used Vallejo black wash instead. This is very concentrated, and I tried various dilutions and ended up with about 2ml in 30ml of distilled water (I think). I put a couple of drops of Liquitex Flo-Aid in this as well. After putting it on, I thought it was way too dark, but after letting it dry overnight, it's pretty good. In the pic, the upper pieces have the Vallejo (I needed a second coat on the bottom of the "plywood" wall. The lowest wall has A&I to the right of the window (you can see where the green came off and onto the brush and thence the wall). The left part of the wall has a more concentrated Vallejo wash--too dark, I think. I should know by now to start light and add more layers of wash if needed. Oh well, I could always use our new modeling philosophy on mistakes. "Cover it with a bush!". ;D
Jeff
Here's how I do the window "glass". I use my calipers to measure the inside of the window (pic 1), then I flip it over and use the other side on the clear material. Use an Xacto knife to make a mark even with the edge of the caliper. Do this a few times along the clear material. Note that the clear material is aligned with a line on the cutting mat, so I know this edge is straight. The next picture shows my straight edge and a leather glove, just in case I slip with the knife. ::) Take the cut strip and test it to see the fit (Pic 4). Then mark how long a piece is needed for the upper sash. Cut this, see if it fits, then mark it with a piece of tape (so you don't lose it, don't ask :) . Put a dot on the top of the tape to keep the orientation correct. (Picture 5). Back after the break.
Jeff
Position the glass on your Chopper, adjust the stop and you should have it then set to make windows. I "Chopped" out the first one and it was slightly long, Probably from pushing against the stop. I readjusted the stop and the next one fit fine. Cut out extras, because you will lose one. Or two. Or more. ;) I then clean them with Windex and a lens cloth to get the fingerprints off them (picture 2) . I then attach them with Future floor polish. It dries clear, fills in any scratches on the window, and I don't have to worry about getting glue on the panes. Grab them with the cool suction cup tool, dip them in the Future. (picture 3). Touch the edge to a paper towel and place the window in the frame. Let them dry.
Jeff
Great progress! I've heard of using the Future floor polish for other applications, but not for gluing in the windows. I'll have to give that a try.
Jeff,
The build is looking very good. The window install seems a little labor intensive for me but I'm sure it is worth the effort in the end.
Tom ;D
Hi Jeff:
Coming along nicely. Love the white peeling paint with the green trim. Keep up the great work.
Karl
Thanks, guys. Yes, Tom, it's kind of a pain to do it this way, but I've not had good luck with the Canopy glue nor the gallery glass. I seem to get "bubbles" in the glass, or it slops on the front of the window frame. That, said, I did do the small window with gallery glass and it turned out OK. ::) One of the glass panes "moved" and I didn't notice it until after it dried. I pried it out and replaced it with a "tin sign" cut to fit the frame (picture one). Next was cleaning the resin bases. Some of these had sticky stuff (think transfer tape sticky) on their bottoms. I removed most of this with goo and purple "super clean". But it's on the bottoms and it won't really matter. I then painted the centers with Rustoleum textured tan paint and then masked them and painted the edges with red primer to represent the bricks. I then blobbed on some black wash in some areas of the bricks to break up the monotony of the color. (pics 2 and 3). There was a small spot where the tape pulled up the tan paint--of course right near where the garage door is :( , so I overpainted it with some bleached titanium. Then A&I was used to wash all the "concrete" surfaces down (Picture 4). Then I used Robert's Mortar for the mortar lines. Dab and brush it on, let it dry for a minute and wipe off with your finger. I wipe it off lightly to leave some of the mortar on the bricks. (Picture 5). Next up, putting the walls together!
Jeff
It really looks great Jeff. I'm enjoying the thread.
Loving it Jeff.
Jeff,
Your walls look great and I love the mortar between the bricks.
I've not had good results with Robert's Brick Mortar. I'm guessing its the Indian and not the bow and arrow.
Tom ;D
Thanks, guys. It's starting to look like a building!
Jeff
Jeff
The build is taking shape, great job so far.
Thanks for stopping by, Jim. Before putting the walls together, I noticed I had forgotten one corner post. ::) Of course I couldn't find one already painted so I had to do the white/grey combo again. At least the wood was already stained. These things always seem to happen on my builds. I'm moving along and then I run out of or can't find something and get off track. I'm always hesitant to go to a further step, cuz I don't want to get out of order and forget something. Anyway, late yesterday I had to paint a casting for the bay window. I think I made it match the wood pretty well.
Jeff
After painting the casting, I've hit my first snag. The instructions note you need a scale 2x8 "spacer" for the bay casting to fit. After attaching the next foundation casting, it was quite a gap. (picture one). The spacer is already in place. I placed the next set of walls on and it was even a larger gap. :o (Picture 2). You're supposed to attach the bay casting first, then the walls, but I went in reverse. (Picture 3). I put a 2x10 in the gap and it's close. The wall is perpendicular, the casting is just slightly off. It doesn't matter a lot, as this side will be away from view. Plus, I'll just cover it with a bush. ;D The inside corner gap is less noticeable, and weeds can cover this.
Jeff
Gluing on the part with superglue, I held it in place and eliminated the gap (picture one). The bay isn't perfectly level on the bottom, but I'll cover that with dirt. Glued on the back garage extension and placed it on the layout (straight on view from aisle picture 2). Notice I've cleaned the area again (hopefully for the last time). I'll probably use 1 inch thick (2.54 cm) foam here to raise the buildings up. The angle shot is to see how much (or little) interior detail I'll need if I leave the doors open. On the pictures of the kit, he has the back ones slightly ajar, that would eliminate detailing that. ;D The center and front ones are open to 90 degress and that should eliminate most of the side one needing detail. I'll put a car in there and the front may need one as well. Next step is building the bay window. It's two pages of instructions and looks like it will take awhile.
Jeff
Awesome build so far Jeff. I really like the paint effect you have done on it.
Nice work Jeff. I like the weathering effect on the painted outer walls. :)
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Thanks, Rodney and Bob. Next up is the bay window. I'll admit after reading the instructions I was wary of this step. There's a piece which fits over the resin casting, three frames, make two corner posts, a topper piece and a small triangular piece. The resin casting "cover" goes on first, then the corner posts (picture one). then the window pieces go on. Then you're supposed to put the glass in. I didn't think I'd manage to put the glass in afterward, so I put in in first. Cut the pieces smaller laterally than the frame, or the frames won't fit. The frames also need slight "beveling" to fit well. I then put in the left frame (picture 2), placed the top piece on (it's two pieces, one of which is a trapezoid just like the lower piece). It seemed to align OK, you really just kind of guess that it's right. I did try fitting the dry frames first, but I'm unable to hold all three windows at the same time. :) . I then put in the center and then the right window. (picture 3). Cleaned the "glass" inside and out. And put on the top pieces (picture 4). It actually went better than I thought it would. On to the roofs (rooves? 8) ).
Jeff
The bay window looks great Jeff.
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Your build is really coming along nicely! Great progress photos and step-by-steps on how you got things to work out. Keep it up.
Jeff
I really like the peeled paint. Looks great so far.
Ditto. The peeling paint looks great, Jeff.
John
Jeff:
You should do a tutorial on the peeling paint technique. Very nice. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam.... 8) 8)
Looks good, Jeff. Can't wait to see the rest. Can you work on it between the patients?
Vilius
Thanks, gentlemen. I don't think my boss would like me taking my hobby to work, though Friday was so slow I could have gotten a lot done. Bob (psg), I'll try to think up a way to do a tutorial on this, maybe on a small build later. I didn't get much done today (laziness), and I won't get anything done for the next two days as I have to work. :( I got some of the roofs on. Step one, paint the undersides of the visible areas. Step two, brace them. The instructions just called for the lower braces on the triangular roofs, and none on the rectangular one. I added a couple extra pieces. The roof is self supporting, which concerns me a bit. The main large roof is to be covered with corrugated metal. The lower roof is covered with tarpaper (it's supported by some internal spacers you see on some of the previous pics). Step three, I add lines to the roof so I can lay the shingles/paper, whatever parallel. The instructions call for double sided tape added later, I added it now as, again, I'm afraid the side triangles of the roof will be weak spots and I didn't want to have to press hard on them. Instead of our usual number 465 transfer tape, he suggests 969 tape, so I got some (it's supposed to be stickier). Step four, sand and bevel the edges of the triangular pieces and the main roof so it sits flush on the flat rectangular roof. Step five, glue roofs on. Step six, have a Diet Dew while waiting for roofs to dry. :)
Jeff
Jeff,
The build is coming along great. I'm in agreement with the others in reference to the pealing paint. It looks really good.
Tom ;D
Jeff:
The build is coming long nicely. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Well, Bob (PSG) wanted a tutorial on the peeling paint. I wasn't intending to do that now, but while working on the dormers, I found there were some unpainted pieces. :o The first pic shows the "ingredients" for this. First, "age" the walls. I used Hunter's weathering mix for this (picture 2). The "classic" treatment is Floquil driftwood for this, but only the "hoarders" still have some of that paint left. ;D A&I or simply grey paint can be used for this also. The next step is to drybrush the walls with a light tan paint, I used Apple Barrel 'Sandstone' for this First drybrush UP the walls. This catches the edges and occasionally spills over onto the board faces as well. Picture three shows this as well as the brush I use for this. A soft, flat #4 Fitch brush from Dick Blick. These are relatively cheap brushes, and this technique really taxes them. I then brush with the boards a bit, and even press the brush into the boards, scrubbing the paint on (Picture four). Next is your main color, white in this case. Do the same thing. You want to build these layers up slowly. (Picture 5) When you start this process, do a wall and then leave it awhile and come back to see if you've added enough paint for your liking. Once you have one wall to the point you like it, use it as a reference for the later walls.
Jeff
Next, I rub the walls with the brush tool. It adds a bit of grain and some silvery look to the walls. I do this gently on most walls, really hard on a really aged wall. Then add nailholes, if you like, and raise a board or two with the chisel blade. (picture one). A black wash with A&I or in this case Vallejo black wash should finish the job (Picture 2). Compare it to the master wall and if it matches (picture 3) you're done. It's a time consuming process, but I like the effect. Notice I didn't use the grey paint here, but if you have a spot that's "too white" you can dry brush some of the grey over it (or the sandstone as well). You can also sponge paint some grey over a spot you think has too much paint.
Jeff
Next up, this is how I do the windows. The dormer windows are glued together and then styrene trim is applied inside them. even with the trim on, they're really delicate. Some corner posts were added as well. Of course, now the windows and the trim piece are a different shade of white. :o I should left the windows unpainted, (Picture one), but I just resprayed the assemblies white (Picture two). Picture three shows the sandstone and grey paint, a piece of a grouting sponge and a stiff flat brush. Put a small amount of paint on a surface (I have oodles of these old pieces of cardboard) touch a small area of the sponge to it and then dab at the cardboard to get most of the paint off. When it gets to the point of the tan spots just under the tweezers (picture four), you can then dab it on the windows. How hard you press will determine how much paint comes off. It's tough to get the inner sashes with the sponge, especially the inside corners, so I do the same thing with the brush. "Dry dabbing" on these areas. I occasionally dry brush as well, so it doesn't look just like spots. Afterwards, I go back over with white "dry dabbing" and dry brushing to even it out a bit. (Picture five) Add a black wash and compare it to the siding, (Picture six).This looks close enough for me. :)
Jeff
In one of the many great build threads that's going on, someone mentioned a product called Judi Kins Diamond Glaze for glazing windows. I've never been happy with the Gallery glass nor the Canopy glue for this. So I sent for some and tried it. It's OK, the glass is wavy (maybe I could add a second coat with a brush on the fronts or maybe some Future over it to flatten it out). But I didn't get any bubbles or thin spots like I get with the others, I think it's because it's thicker. No over run on the front of the sashes, either. It'll do for the dormer windows, I painted the back black as there's nothing behind these windows but roof.
Jeff
If you have this kit, don't mix up the triangle shaped pieces in the picture above, the bottom two are slightly different than the top two. The dormers and their roofs are on, along with the little pooch out shown in picture one. Now it's time for the roofing. The main roof is corrugated roofing. I hate the metal product of this, as you're always knocking the paint off and making shiny spots which need touch up later. I usually use the Northeastern paper product for this. I didn't here because, I didn't have enough, and the way the roof is done you need longer pieces like the ones supplied. Anyway I cut them in three foot wide pieces per the instructions and put them in the paint booth (picture 2). I usually use grey Rustoleum primer for this. Didn't have any >:( . I did have some black left, and used that, then covered with some Tamiya primer which is a very light grey. (picture 3). Started putting them on the structure. With the tape exposed you really have to watch where you stick a finger or you'll stick to the building as well. ;) Yes there are already some shiny spots. >:( Now to trim all the angle pieces. Ick. ???
Jeff
Jeff,
Well done to this point. Love the structure walls and wow, that's a lot of roof to cover with the corrugated roofing panels. ;D
Tom
Well done - thanks for the tutorial. And as Tom said that's a lot of roof.
Looking great Jeff. Thanks for the tutorial and photos on your painting technique.
Hi Jeff:
I don't or have never built a SRMW kit. You are doing a wonderful job with it. I will continue to follow along.
Karl
Thanks Tom, John, Mark and Karl. It IS a lot of roof. Here's a picture of the "easy" roof finished. The external edges get covered with painted paper to represent metal covering. The internal edges don't, so they have to be pretty precise. I'm presently doing the left roof with the dormer. Every piece needs to be measured and cut. It's not as fun as seen on TV. :)
Jeff
Ouch! :o I'm having flashbacks to when I had to apply shingles to the SRMW Cambridge Crossing Station. And that was shingles, not metal roof panels! I remember all the trimming and fitting on that one and this one looks a lot more difficult. You have your work cut out for you! But it'll look great when you're done!
Thanks for your encouragement, Bob. The roof with the first dormer is finished. I'll add the corner edge pieces from leftovers at the end. The dormers are covered with raised seam roofing. Wish the whole thing was. :) There are already many shiny spots coming thru on the roof. I suspect I'll have to "over paint" it when it's ready for weathering.
Jeff
Looking great Jeff, I just love dormers and different roof patterns.
Thanks, Jan. I like the look, too, except that I have to custom cut nearly every piece of roofing. Where the garage comes into the building was tough, the roof goes under the other roof, see the center of the first picture. On the first side, I cut it for a piece to lie over the roof, I fixed that on the second side and may go back and fix the first if I don't run out of roofing material. I left the toughest roof section for the end, hoping my techniques would improve. The edges where the pieces lie over each other tend to separate, the tape keeps the rest down pretty well. I'm using a touch of superglue where the pieces overlie. Of course, if it seeps out, it takes the paint right off the metal. :o
Jeff
Jeff,
That is quite a roofing job. I does look good though.
Jim
Jeff: The roof is looking great. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Thanks, Jim and Bob. Almost there...
Done! Next up is to cover the peaks, add any bits needed, fix the one piece I'm not happy with and then paint it all to cover all the shiny spots.
Jeff
Looking good Jeff. Great use of a ballast bag.
Very nice work on the roof Jeff. I'd go crazy if I had to do all of that snipping/tweaking!
Great work Dr. Jeff. First, I like the peeling paint effect a lot, and thanks for the tutorial. You can't have enough ways to make your paint peel. ;D
What is your review of the 969 tape you mentioned? I've been using the 3M 565 forever and always thought it was sticky enough. I did try some carpet tape on something and it turned out to be way to sticky.
Hi Jeff:
That roof looks like lots of fun. Looking good so far can't wait to see the finished product.
Karl c
Jeff,
Great job on the roof.
Tom ;D
Thanks, gentlemen. I've started weathering the roof. Pastel chalks, weathering powders, Pan Pastels. The roof will represent 'old' rust and will be more brown than orange.
Jeff
Hello again. My three week hiatus of dog sitting is over and I'm back at this. Mike, to answer your question the tape is stickier, but a bit thicker than the other transfer tape. It isn't perfect as the first picture shows, I had a couple areas lift off. The other problem is where the metal pieces overlap. I used superglue on those that lifted. This stained and lifted the paint off the metal pieces. I had to go back and overpaint those areas with grey. The instructions note to weather the panels then add the paper covering to represent metal to the peaks. That looked weird, so I put on the paper and weathered everything together. Using the powders and stuff made a few shiny spots appear, then I went back and painted them (third pic). Then just kept up with the pastels and stuff. Picture four shows it finished and then I sprayed it with fixative, hoping that it didn't lift it all off. Even though the Dick Blick fixative is "matte" it's a little shiny. I placed on the layout area to see how the colors looked, and it's OK. (picture 5) Next I'll drybrush some light grey over it to see if I like that effect. One note, it was hard to get the pastels and even the weathering powders to stick to the seam roofing. I used the "alcohol and pastel" method to apply these, they looked streaky, but after it dried the pastels went on much better.
Jeff
The light grey lightened it up. Looks OK to me.
Jeff
Next up is a small overhang over the garage door area. Mine did not quite match the instructions pictures, I think because the main roof isn't quite where it needs to be, though it looks even on both sides to me. Anyway I had to futz with it to get it to fit. You're then supposed to use putty on the side to disguise that it's three pieces of cardboard (the edge under the roof extension). How I would be able to putty, sand and paint this without gumming up something else would be near impossible. Like the way I got white paint on the green support. >:( I think it looks OK left alone, especially after I put it on the layout and couldn't really see it. Next is the rolled roofing on the other side.
Jeff
Jeff
Your build is coming along nicely. You inspired me to buy one of the kits Bob had left this weekend. I'm in the don't buy another kit unless you know where it's going on the layout mode and I found a spot. ;)
Jeff, that is a complex buildand ou have done an excellent job.
Marty
Hi Jeff:
Love the way its coming out. Especially your roof. It looks really great. Also like the weathering on the walls.
Karl
Jeff,
Ditto to the other comments. Very well done and looking like an old structure.
Tom ;D
Thanks, John. Maybe Bob will send me a commission. ;D
Jeff
Thank you, Marty.
Jeff
Thanks, Karl. I've got a few shiny spots still. Any handling of the roof and they can appear. Funny thing, I was reading and old RMC and there was a prize winning mill in it and looking closely, I could see some shiny spots on the roof of that build as well. :) Once it's "planted" I'll use a fine brush and rust colored paint to try to cover them.
Jeff
Thanks Tom, glad to see you following the build.
Jeff
i finished the tar paper roof last week, and just finished up the rafters and trim under the entrance roof. I'll weather the roof a bit more when I have it on a diorama base. The next step is signs for the outside. I usually put these on when the walls are flat, but the signs went missing for awhile. I have since found them, but will hold off for now. The doors go on after it's on a diorama base, so they won't be knocked off, so this one is done for now. I'm going to start on the other structure in the kit next.
Jeff
That build looks fantastic Jeff. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Really came out looking great Jeff.
A very impressive build Jeff. Thanks for sharing.
Mike :D
Formidable Jeff , the weathering and roofs are super.
What they all said.....
Thanks, gentlemen, the encouragement is appreciated! I've started the small store. First pic shows bracing. I like the template card so I hopefully don't put a brace where it doesn't belong. The little piece with the window opening next to the triangular piece is a mystery. I don't think it goes to the kit. Probably belongs to something else and I got it mixed up into this box. Anyway after bracing, I spray painted the back of the walls to help prevent warping. I usually use black primer, but I don't have any, so some Rustoleum Flat Brown Camouflage paint substituted. I then used Hunterline Light Grey Weathering mix for a base on the walls.
Jeff
This structure is in much better repair than the auto repair one. I used three thin coats of Apple Barrel Lemon Chiffon on the walls. Vallejo Calvary Brown was airbrushed on the windows and will be used on the wood trim. I didn't lift many of the boards. For the 'nail holes' I used a tool made by R-B productions called the Rivet R that was suggested in the instructions. It's like a pounce wheel, but it leaves very small round holes. The wheels come in several "sizes", I used the 1 mm spacing (the instructions used 0.65mm), but I like how it turned out. Saved a LOT of time vs "the Nailer". A wash of black acrylic and it's time to put the walls together. I tried out the "Diamond Glaze" on the windows, wondering how it would work on larger expanses of "glass" and it worked well, again saving me a great deal of time from cutting acrylic sheet.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Somehow I missed this thread. You are doing a marvelous job on the build. I especially like the weathering of the structure. I have this kit in my "to build " area.I always enjoy the SRMW structures and look forward to your thread progress. Keep up the great work. This is an awesome build.
Frank / Erieman
Jeff,
Same remarks as Frank ! You have been busy too and I missed your thread while off the Forum. Great job on the main building. Looks like that roof was a challenge, but you did it ! Will watch the end of your kit project come together. Will make a nice looking structure for your empire.
Tommy
Thanks, Frank and Tommy. I added some "shades" behind the windows. The front door opening needed to be markedly enlarged, but it fits now. I used some braces as the two separate ares of the building have no sides. The front card piece is where a large brick chimney goes. Need to add black view blocks, then on to the roof.
Jeff
Hi Zephyrus:
WOW!!!! Beautiful Job on that roof. Walls look great to. Keep the photos flowing.
Karl
Thanks, Karl. I ran into a bit of a problem, when I tried on the roof, the triangular piece to the left of the chimney was too short. I cut and painted a piece of siding off a scrap piece and attached it and a short piece of the brown corner piece to the top. It's not perfect, but the edge will be covered by a 1 x 6 piece of trim. The 1 x 6 wouldn't quite have covered the boo boo, so I ended up painting the "filler".
Jeff
Looking good Jeff
Nice work Jeff. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Thanks for looking in, Long Horn and Bob. I've finished the trim on the building. Next up the roofing.
Jeff
Jeff,
Its coming together nicely and it looks great.
Tom ;D
Thanks, Tom. One side of the building has rolled roofing. I had already painted all the rolled roofing green, which would give this structure a "Christmassy" feel, so I found some black in the "pile". Next up is coloring the shingles for the other part of the building. I used prismacolor pens for this. Mostly a 20% cool grey, with some 40% and a "parchment" color as well. The instructions tell you to just draw lines over the sheets to save time, but I didn't think that was neat enough, so I did more individual shingles. Cut them apart and mix them all up and it hopefully will come out OK.
Jeff
Jeff,
Great job! Did Bob instructed you to use Parchment color or did you come up with it? Looks like a new twist in shingle coloring technique. I might get my 40% or 50% coupon and head to out to Michaels for the Parchment color marker.
I don't think you have a problem with randomness but those who have may want to use a dice to make the task easier.
Vilius
Hi Vilius, sorry I didn't get back to your question sooner. Between work and our Christmas trip, nothing's been done on the structure until today. I had used the parchment with the grays previously and liked how it looked, so figured I try it again. I've started applying the shingles. Row by Row. The first row attaches to the transfer tape, but I place a VERY thin line of Flamingo glue on the top of the already applied strip as such a small amount of the strips are actually touching the transfer tape on subsequent rows. The instructions just cut the shingles at an angle down the inner valley on the one side of the roof, but I liked the individual shingles showing. I'm not sure how a roofer would have done this. Time for more shingles...
Jeff
Jeff,
The shingles look wonderful. Love the different tones you've added.
A roofer would have a metal valley and the shingles all cut along the angle of the valley.
Tom ;D
Thanks for the compliment and the info, Tom. The shingles are done. Next up are two two stacks and an awning over the door.
Jeff
Huzzah! The building is finished. For those of you that have this kit, check the fit of the awning over the door before putting on the braces and roofing. Mine was too wide, and when I put it on, anyone trying to go in the door would have hit their head. :o I cut about a foot off of each side (after peeling off the roofing, repainting the ends, etc) and it worked a lot better. The stacks are metal pieces that were soaked in Blacken It and lightly buffed. I added the NBW castings for where the stack meets the roof. Eyebolts probably would have better, but I don't have any. ??? Some light weathering with chalks and it's done! Both structures are basically complete, now it's time to incorporate them into the layout. Of course there's no scenery on the layout, so I'll have to build that first. There's a gas pump island and the details left to be painted/built as well.
Jeff
Jeff
The build really looks nice. And thanks for the tips - I will use them when I get around to building mine.
Hi Jeff:
Very nicely done.
Karl
Thanks, John and Karl. I'm positioning them on their spots on the layout. The pic shows rough topography with white foam. I usually don't use white, but my wife's recent furniture purchases left me with several usable pieces. The straight piece of masonite represents a road. The piece of paper is the outline of a CCK kit which will fit here perfectly. The building on the left is one of Fos' "Little Lou's". Next up is to cut some thin gatorfoam for diorama bases so I can detail these kits at the bench and then drop them on the foam.
Jeff
Great build Jeff..... 8)
After watching your thread, I'm glad I bought this kit.
Nice work Jeff....
Thanks, Greg and Donato. I've shaped the foam to fit the road, trying out some vehicles to see how things "fit".
Jeff
Jeff, That is some weird building. All the different angles of roof lines and the contrasting colours would fit perfectly into and place on the layout.
Thanks for watching, Marty. I finished the gas pump stand. Working on siting and will start on the details.
Jeff
Looking good Jeff!
Jeff nice job on the build and the track work is looking good also.
Always a pleasure to follow a SRMW kit building thread....
Eric Quebec.
Thanks for watching the build, Mark, Jim and Eric. The building is raised on some 1/8 inch stripwood so that the landforms can be built around it. The instructions call for the "asphalt" to be made using Durham's water putty. I had some of this, and tried it, but it didn't seem to work differently than the Lightweight Spackle I usually use for this. I've been building up the spackle layers slowly for this. the rest of the scenery base will be Sculptamold. The overall base is Gatorfoam. Looks like I need to add some more under the garage door and certainly under the access door. :o
Jeff
Looking good Jeff. Getting the landforms and the foundation right adds so much to the build.
Thanks, John. The auto repair diorama asphalt is finished. The sculptamold for the other areas is down as well. I mixed the sculptamold with some paint so I wouldn't have any white spots showing through. I was a little short and too lazy to open up the paint can again, so the last little bit is much lighter. The asphalt area work on the store diorama is going on as well.
Jeff
Removed the "formers" from the store diorama so that the store can sit below the asphalt level, otherwise the door would be way to high off the ground. It's better, but I'll probably add a step. Started on the detail castings as well. Put them in the solution Brett Gallant suggests, Midas Pewter Oxidizer. It works MUCH more quickly than the "Blacken-it". still were some silver spots, probably from air bubbles, I may just brush it on next time.
Jeff
Preminary scenery, dirt and ground cover on the auto repair diorama.
Jeff
Jeff,
John S. is right! It is looking good, keep building bossman. You're on a roll. Thanx Thom...
Thanks Thom. I've got some ground cover up against the structure, and used a conservative amount of static grass. I've also removed the dirt from the window sills and grass from the roof that's visible in the pictures. ::) Next up need to paint the garage doors and install them.
Jeff
Looking great Jeff, all the different roof angles make it stand out.
Thanks, Andy. The smaller diorama has initial dirt/ground cover. I had masked off the area for the pavement and the general store, not for Little Lou's. The store fits, as you can see there's a white gap, but once the building is in place, I'll just put some dirt in the gap. Had to scrape off some of the dirt/sculpatmold from the Little Lou's area with a chisel blade, but it fits now, too. Some of the earth paint seeped under the tape and needs to be touched up.
Jeff
Nice build Jeff. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Thanks for watching, Bob. I've built a fence to stretch between the two structures, touched up the asphalt paint and added some growth against the buildings. Now back to the other diorama to add the garage doors.
Jeff
Jeff,
The little diorama looks good. Neat little scene.
Tom ;D
Jeff, nice job on the dio.
Thanks, Tom and Jim. I wanted to pose the doors at least partially open, but didn't want to "waste" good vehicles that wouldn't be seen. I had ruined a Sylvan kit years ago with poor priming. I also had a Stony Mountain car (they are solid resin) which I didn't think looked as good as the Sylvan's. I tried painting these with some red spray paint I had and they came out an odd dark pink, so I repainted them with red primer. I then tried painting some of the chrome with a brush and a wide pen I have, which didn't work very well. Again, since they were going to be hidden, it didn't make too much difference. I then sprayed them with Glosscoat. I then applied some A&I which did weird things to the Glosscoat on the Stony Mountain car, but not the other. I brushed some Vallejo gloss varnish on it and it looked passable. Dusted with some dirt and glued them in place. The yellow car is a Woodland Scenics vehicle. Avert your eyes, Raymo, these cars don't look anywhere near as good as yours. But they look OK hidden in the garages. :)
Jeff
I've spent the last couple of weeks building the road that goes in front of the dioramas and building/painting detail parts. Today the detail parts got placed on the garage diorama. Need to add some figures and the power pole and some bushes and maybe a tree or two and it will be finished.
Jeff
Your dio came out great Jeff! I love all those roof lines. Awesome work, thanks so much for sharing and posting your build. I always learn something from these build threads!
Thanks, Bob. I'm back at the general store. Rigged up the power pole. This is not my favorite modeling challenge. But it's done. I didn't use the dowel and crossarm from the kit, This is a Rix pole and crossarm. I need five or six of these for the overall scene and didn't think they would match well. Next up rigging up the one for the garage, but I can't finish it as the power pole won't be on the diorama. The figure of the woman with the baby is probably the most difficult figure I've ever painted. I couldn't put a wire into her foot/leg as they are too thin, and the shoe area was too small to hold glue well. Kept rubbing the paint off her shoes/pants while trying to paint the rest. :P
Jeff
Jeff,
Very well done. Looks great.
Tom ;D
Great work! I need to copy your electric lines on the pole so i do it right!
Looking great, lots of eye catching details.
Thanks, guys. Bob, the instructions with the kit illustrate how to do it. But it's still a pain to do. :) The sign post is done, another PITA to deal with. Trying to superglue pieces of wire together is not fun. Maybe I should try soldering next time. The power feed is done on the other structure and the pigeons are on the roof which signifies this build is finished. The kits/dioramas are done,except for some more scenery, trees, etc. But I'm waiting on that until they are installed on the layout and the scenery around them is in place. I'll post pics to a finished thread later (I haven't taken them yet). ;D
Jeff