Ok, time I started my thread for the challenge. I chose Stella's Ewart & Lake kit, partially because I've never built one of Jim's kits, and also because I like the looks of it. The building is based off of a prototype in Greigsville, NY.
So here are a few pictures to start off this build. First off is a shot of the box, then some of the stripwood and windows, etc., then the laser cut walls, and finally some of the roof cardstock, shingles, and an envelope containing the signage. I'm not sure if you can see it in the 2nd photo, but the kit contains a Jordan Buckboard wagon kit! Oh boy!!
More photos to come, but first I need to put on another pot of coffee.
A few more photos before I actually get started on the build.
The first one is of the instructions, along with the templates showing which components are which and others showing where the bracing goes. I like that. Most times the bracing is straightforward, but other times I've put it in places that interfere with something else (certainly my fault), or not put bracing in where it should have had some (my fault again). Then comes photos of my work bench area. Egad, what a mess. Both sides are cluttered up with other projects, so I need to clean one side off to get this build really started.
Mark,
I'll be following along with you on this one. I almost purchased this kit from Jim but passed at the last minute. I do have the Eire cafe though. Jim put out a few great kits and I'm sorry to see he is out of the kit making business. :'( :'(
Tom ;D
Alright! There needs to be more of Jim's kits getting built.
Jaime
Thanks for following along guys! I'm also sorry that Jim stopped making kits. I have a barn and monument kit of his as well.
Mark
Another great project to watch. I like your workbench - very well organized and one project at a time, like mine. :) ;)
An interesting looking kit, Mark. I have not seen this one before, and will be watching it come together.
Cheers, Mark.
John & Mark,
Thanks for following along! My first task will be cleaning off one of my (organized? Ha!) workbenches tonight and stage the parts.
Jim had some great kits. I always hoped he would have let someone take over the line. Thanks for bringing this kit out for the challenge.
Quote from: Raymo on September 18, 2016, 04:54:38 PM
Jim had some great kits. I always hoped he would have let someone take over the line. Thanks for bringing this kit out for the challenge.
You and me both!
So one of the first things I do is cut the windows/doors etc. off of the sprues, clean off any residual nibs with a sharp blade, then stick them to a board with some painters tape. I used to just stick the whole sprue full of the pieces right to the tape, but after painting them, there was always some paint scraped off when removing them, so I switched to the other method. I haven't settled on a color yet, but leaning towards a white for this kit.
Will be following along closely. I think I have this kit.
Was eyeing an open building site last night with an eye to include the feed mill Jim did in that location.
Marty
Thanks for following along Marty. Here are a few more progress pics.
First off I'm pulling up a few pieces of siding. While reading the instructions (well, actually looking at the pictures) I noticed that Jim used a piece of 1/16" trim to put the two side walls together, which he has painted the same color as the windows. Hmmm. Since I like the looks of the color contrast I figured I'd better get on that next. I used a razor saw to scribe the trim to give them some texture, then dunked them into Hunterline's Driftwood stain. I couldn't reach the middle, so I used one of my stain brushes to finish them off. Next up I'll be painting the trim, and while they're drying I'll start adding the bracing.
Mark,
I don't know how I ever got along without all the Hunterline Weathering Mixes. This will be a great model.
Tom ;D
I like how it looks!! nice work so far ;)
Quote from: Pol.lux on September 21, 2016, 09:50:31 AM
I like how it looks!! nice work so far ;)
Thanks! It's been fun building so far.
As I was separating the laser cut walls from the sheet I noticed that they were a bit more, flimsy (bendable), then other kits that I've worked on, so I'm adding a bit more bracing than is shown in the templates. I'm still using a Chopper #1 to do my cuts. I think it's time to upgrade. The base under the blade is all chewed away. So as some of you know I like to use clamps.....lots of clamps....when I'm gluing the bracing to the walls, as can be attested by the following pictures.
Mark,
I'm not really sure but you may need more clamps. ;D ;D ;D
Tom
Clamperiffic! ;D
Jeff
Love all the clamps. Don't you wish you had more?
Jaime
Needs more windows (and clamps)
Jim
Remember what Norm said.....
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.newyankee.com%2Fassets%2Ftemplates%2Fnyw%2Fimages%2FNormSign.gif&hash=86036c5aa85ecb3a9093116c1adafca26ae57d64)
"You can never have enough clamps".
Norm !!!!
Wait... wrong show.
Jaime
You are all correct....I need more clamps! I actually have an un-opened back-up container of 50 clamps at arms-length "just in case".
I didn't know men could get "eClampsia"?
"eclampsia"? I better get checked out. Actually, my backup clamp is a 100 count! I'm worse off than I thought!
So I have a little progress to report. Started painting the trim that goes on the edges of the wall boards. I used 2 different colors, eggshell and white, sponged on. My technique is a bit rusty, that's for sure. I did 2 sides of each piece. I'll do one more side then attach them per the instructions.
I tried a few different stains for the clapboard walls, as well as the "final" paint for the building. Here's a pic of what I'm going to choose from.
I can agree with Norm Abrams about the number of clamps....
But I really don't like the guy. He never says "ooopps" and everything fits the first time.
See ya
Bob
Mark,
Looking good.
Bob, I read an article about Norm's show, it takes 6-8 hours to get a 30 minute show. I wish we could get 8 hours of layout work down to 30 minutes.
Tom ;D
Quote from: bparrish on September 24, 2016, 02:44:50 AM
I can agree with Norm Abrams about the number of clamps....
But I really don't like the guy. He never says "ooopps" and everything fits the first time.
See ya
Bob
That's because Norm always says..... "measure twice and cut once".......
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2016, 07:12:30 AM
Mark,
Looking good.
Bob, I read an article about Norm's show, it takes 6-8 hours to get a 30 minute show. I wish we could get 8 hours of layout work down to 30 minutes.
Tom ;D
It's all in the editing.
Your build looks like it is going well and I'm impressed with your clamp collection. There is no such thing as to many tools.
Thanks John. Hoping to get some progress done today so that I can post more pics.
Mark looks good. What color clamp is your favorite?
Jim
Jim, I like all of my clamp colors! I try not to play favorites ;D
I gave the walls a wash of Hunterline's driftwood stain (1st photo). It's interesting to see how the "wet" wall looks so much darker than one that has dried for about 15 minutes (2nd photo). I also chose a red color to paint the walls. I usually use a sponge technique to apply the paint, but I may go with a dry brush method this time. The 3rd photo showing both my trial painting technique (sponge on the left and DB on the right). Any thoughts on which one I should go with?
I really like how it looks!
Don't hate me!!! But I love the effect between both!! is perfect :)
Mark,
I would love to say that I like sponge technique better but unfortunately it isn't the way paint peels. It starts with the tops and and then goes deeper. Yeah, I sound like a rivet counter... If you after the aesthetics only then I say go for it.
Vilius
Thanks for the input Vilius & Pol. lux. Actually, there's a very old house near me that looks like the paint has been applied (peeled off?) like the sponge technique. There are 1 and 2 foot sections of paint remaining in places, with other sections right down to the bare, grey, weathered wood. If the place was desereted I would have gone and taken some pictures, but didn't want to get shot by trespassing! :o
I gave the walls a dry brushing using a red paint (I forgot the brand & color and too lazy to run to the cellar to find out). I will be doing another coating, probably my trusted sponging technique, then maybe a dry brushing with some white. The next shot is putting a piece of wall edging on one of the walls.
Love the C clamp. It should hold the walls together.
Tom ;D
Hi Mark:
Looks like you are off to a good start.
Karl
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 28, 2016, 06:18:43 AM
Love the C clamp. It should hold the walls together.
Tom ;D
I may have a larger clamp in the Tool Chest. :o :o :o :o
Jim
I know you can't have enough clamps , but does that also mean they can't be large enough ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on September 28, 2016, 03:37:24 PM
I know you can't have enough clamps , but does that also mean they can't be large enough ;)
The old saying "the right tool for the right job" may apply here.......nah! ;D
Mark
The color and dry brushing look great.
Jim
Thanks Jim.
I'm hoping to do a little more work on the walls tomorrow night, then assembly time.
Made some progress the last day or so. First off it's gluing on the wall side trim, holding them in place to dry with what else....clamps...brass ones in this application. I cut them a bit long, then trim to length with a sharp blade. For the Windows I usually (always?) use Gallery Glass. I was tempted to use the pre-cut window material that Jim included with this kit, but I prefer the look of GG, so that's what I went with.
Hi Mark:
I almost always us gallery glass. Been using it for quite some time. I think it does a great job.
Karl
I like Gallery Glass & Judi Kins Diamond Glaze that Karl "O" advised me to use. For some reason this stuff will not be effected by dull coat
The problems I have & maybe a lot of you have is GC or Diamond Glaze wants to run out of the windows while drying. Can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong
Mike Sigmon
Quote from: MASIGMON on October 04, 2016, 04:25:16 PM
The problems I have & maybe a lot of you have is GC or Diamond Glaze wants to run out of the windows while drying. Can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong
Mike Sigmon
Mike,
I like using Canopy Glue for the window glass. Its thicker than GG and doesn't run.
Tom ;D
Karl,
Thanks for stopping by. I like the look of the Gallery Glass as well.
Tom,
I've never used Canopy Glue for windows.....except for gluing them in. Hmmmm, I may try it on the next build I do.
Mike,
I've never used Kin's Diamond Glaze. I'll have to look into it.
Quote from: MASIGMON on October 04, 2016, 04:25:16 PM
I like Gallery Glass & Judi Kins Diamond Glaze that Karl "O" advised me to use. For some reason this stuff will not be effected by dull coat
The problems I have & maybe a lot of you have is GC or Diamond Glaze wants to run out of the windows while drying. Can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong
Mike Sigmon
Mike
I use Gallery Glass and did have it run out one time when I set the windows near upright to dry. It doesn't seem to happen if you lay them flat to dry. I think it's a surface tension thing. If the window castings are real thin I prop them between weights on my workbench so the glass/glue doesn't sag and touch the surface supporting them. I hope this helps.
I just bought my first bottle of canopy glue to try - I will let you know if I like it better.
I have used both Canopy Glue and Gallery Glass for windows. Canopy Glue is thicker and does not seem to require as much to fill a window. Gallery Glass is quite thin and runny.
I like Canopy Glue better.....my 2 cents.
Jim
So I decided to put on a couple of signs that are supplied with the kit. I usually don't thin out the backs by sanding them, but I thought it would be a change of pace to give it a try. Well first off I sanded a bit too far on one of the signs, putting a hole in it. I applied it anyway, hoping it wouldn't screw up things. After applying, I couldn't really see the hole, but the printing on the sign started to wear off as I tried to burnish it into the siding. I think it still looks ok, but I'm not 100% happy. So, without further adieu, here are a few progress photos.
I like putting in the windows/doors before assembling the walls, and I typically use Canopy Glue for that. Using the business end of an exacto blade I dip it into a puddle of CG, then apply it from the inside of the wall. Usually I'll do 2 openings at a time, then press in the window or door, making sure it's seated properly. Jim has the openings on the walls cut just right...no forcing of the piece into the opening, yet they don't just fall out. After I've put in all of the pieces and let them dry for a while I start gluing sub-assemblies together. Here are a few pics.
Thanks to the forum members on glazing the windows. Sorry Mark did not want to butt into your build. I like the sign on the building. Sanding it sure made it look good
Mike Sigmon
Here are a few update pics. I've attached the upper wall in the first photo. I realized when I first tried to glue it in that a piece of the side trim was missing. It didn't show on the instructions to extend it all the way up the side wall. No problem. A quick cut and glue had it in place, and after it dried I glued in the finished wall assembly. I then assembled the 2 overhang walls. I'll be building the decks next, which include cardboard decks that come attached to the roof template. I also did a quick stain to the wood strips that will be cut up for the loading docks.
Mark,
The build is coming along nicely. The sign looks perfect. I'm so sorry I didn't get this kit when it came out. I really wanted to add it to the other ones still under the layout to be built. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Hi Mark:
Coming together quite nicely. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
Tom,
Thanks for stopping by! I really like the looks of this building. Luckily I picked this up just before Jim stopped producing kits. The sign looks better in the photos than real life, but an A&I wash (or 2) will help it out.
Karl,
Thanks for dropping in! Hopefully I'll get some progress photos tomorrow.
Looking good Mark.
Thanks Jim.
Ok, some progress has been made! I glued in a piece of strip wood at the peak of the side walls to keep them square to each other and to give me some place to glue the roof cardstock. Oh, I also painted the lower, inside wall sections because I may leave a door or 2 open, so seeing un-pained wood through the doors was not appealing. So as the glue & paint dried I started working on the two decks. Both start out with laser cut cardstock which need some trim applied. The photo shows one done and the other "under the clamp". Then I started cutting the floor boards that were previously stained/powdered to size and glued them in. I first roughed up the outer edges to give them a worn look. This exposed some of the untreated strip wood, so I gave the deck another wash of Hunterline stain.
Some progress has (finally) been made. Some of this work was done a few days ago and I'm just now getting around to posting. So, the first picture shows one of the little rooms I'm adding to the interior of the building so that I can leave a door or 2 open and show off some wares that the store sells. The next is the large cardboard roofing piece covered in double sided tape, which I'll add to the other roofing cardboard, and then a shot of me cutting the tarpaper roofing into 3' strips. The final is some extra bracing I'm adding to help support and add gluing area for the cardstock roofing.
The build looks great Mark. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Nice work ;)
PD:Guys..... after watching some threads, you all have some really intereting tools to work....:)
Thanks for the comments Bob & Pol.lux.
Some more progress on the kit. First up is one of the roofs for the 2 overhangs that are on the building. I chose to use Bar Mills shingles instead of more of the tarpaper material that came with the kit just to break things up. I did some dry brushing with white paint (right side of roof) to give it some aging. The next photo is me dry-fitting the two main roofs on the kit to see how they look, and the last one is the main room being held in place with rubber bands (no clamps this time).
Looking very good Mark. I like the tar paper roof, well done.
Tom ;D
Thanks for the feedback Tom! I always wonder if I'm calling the roofing material by its correct name. I always thought that "tar" paper was the underlayment for the shingles that would go on top. Is it a common roofing material as the final top layer? Any-hoo, here are some updates. The doors are made up of some kind of laser board material. After I painted both sides it still decided to warp just a bit, so I glued a few pieces of the same material to the back of each door. It helped. A couple of pics of the door in it's warp mode, and my trusty clamps straightening it out. Next up are a couple of pics of the doors mounted on the building. They're all sliding doors.
Mark
The build is really looking nice.
Hi Mark:
Looks good so far. Like your colors. Do the sliding freight doors get more detail on them?
Karl
Mark,
You are doing a very nice job on your build, both in construction and coloring. I particularly like the planking and exterior, the coloring is great. To answer your question posed to Tom and to clarify your use of the term tar paper, you are correct that "Tar" paper is used as an underlayment for a shingle application and was also used as a top covering. As a finish covering it did not last as long exposed to the elements, because it was no more than Kraft paper impregnated with tar. Tar paper is graded by weight, 15# and 30#, which denotes the amount of weight added to the structure for every 100 sq. ft. of roof surface. There is a third grade of paper, 90# that isn't made from tar but asphaltum (it is still known as tar paper) and is covered with granules just as a shingle would be covered. All three grades were called felt and cut to 36 inches in width, but they differed in lengths, I believe the 15# and 30# were cut to 100 ft. and the 90# at 50 ft., at least that is what my back remembers.
The 15# and 30# came with lines stenciled at 6, 12, 18, 24, and 30 inches running the length to assist in alignment across a run of roof. The pitch of the roof drove the amount of face exposure you allowed for the next run. A shallow roof (4 in 12 pitch) you would allow a 18 or 24 inch exposure depending upon how much water was flowing over the roof, a steeper roof (12 in 12 pitch) 30 inches was allowable. For the time frame that most everyone on this forum is modeling, 90# felt was a luxury. But there are some rich LPs on some of these layouts and dioramas.
For flat roofing most (if the owner could afford it) paper application was covered with slag as a UV protection for the paper. The roof was made up of 5 to 7 plies of paper with hot tar mopped on each layer and the next roll aligned with the stenciled lines. The top layer was mopped with tar and slag thrown and swept across the surface, except at the edges. The paper there was lapped up the inside of the coping and either slipped under the flashing and sealed, or bulled into the brick.
Well that is more than you asked for, but I was on a roll, get it? Again, nice job on your build and to all those building.
Bob
Mark,
Looks very good.
In reference to photo #57. I thought you had a clamp for any and every case ;D
Vilius
John/Bob/Karl/Vilius, Thanks for stopping by and commenting on the build! This challenge has re-charged my train batteries and now I'm back on some benchwork/track stuff lately.
Karl, the freight doors didn't come with any extra "stuff", but I did add some door handles (grab irons) that I had from who knows where. Hopefully the photo shows the one on the door.
Bob, thanks for the tutorial on tar paper!! More info is better than less, especially when you're on a roll ;D
Vilius, clamps come in many variations and disquises. I have a coffee can full of rubber bands of all sizes, and that piece of wood on the roof has been used (along with its mate) on many of my builds. The rubber bands are "clamping" the wood to the roof.
Mark,
Sorry I didn't see your post until this morning. Bob correctly answered your question and did a better job on the answer. I think as modelers, we seem to always refer to the "rolled roofing" material as tar paper.
The #15 and #30 felt is more common here in the South and was a quick and easy way to get the building dried in. When I built my 20 X 50 train room I used #30 felt/tar paper and used asphalt shingles on top of felt paper.
Tom ;D
Nice work Mark. 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Tom, 20' x 50' train room??!!! Holy cow! That is nice! Yes, I believe that the term tar paper is a term my dad used to use all the time, so I just picked up on that and it stuck. Rolled roofing....something I'll need to add to my vocabulary. Ok, a couple of progress shots. the first is the large roof over one of the docks. The second is the smaller roof glued in place, held by what else......clamps!
Hmmmm, it seems I'm missing a cross-brace on the smaller dock. Pictures tell all. Tomorrow I'll be fixing that!
Mark the build is coming along nicely. The roofs, dock doors and the colors you went with look great.
Fantastic work ;)
Looking very, very good to my eyes!
Jim/Pol.lux,
Thanks for stopping by and the compliments. I'm pretty happy with the way it's turning out so far. I think I overdid the dry-brushing on the clapboard, so I'll be practicing that on the next kit I build. More photos this evening (I hope).
Mark,
Yes, it is 20 X 50 feet but I don't want to mislead anyone.
The layout room is an "L" shaped room. On the north end is a 12 X 20 section of the "L". On the long side of the "L" I have a 12 X 38 section. So it is 20 X 50 but only 12 ft. wide. Actually with the firing strips and drywall, the width is 11.5 feet wide.
I'm still happy with what i have though.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for the added info on your layout. You're in Florida, correct? I'll be visiting my son down in Wesley Chapel sometime in 2017. I was wondering if I could drop by for a quick tour when I'm down there. It would be great to see your layout!
Quote from: MAP on October 30, 2016, 06:39:01 PM
Tom,
Thanks for the added info on your layout. You're in Florida, correct? I'll be visiting my son down in Wesley Chapel sometime in 2017. I was wondering if I could drop by for a quick tour when I'm down there. It would be great to see your layout!
Mark,
You are very much welcome anytime. I sent you a PM with my info.
Tom ;D
Excellent!! Thanks Tom!
Looks good Mark. That weathering on the loading dock is great, really looks rotten.
-Steve
Thanks for the "rotten" comment Steve. Just luck. My technique is to keep adding stuff (washes/A&I/powders) until I like it. Here are a few more progress shots. I've added in a few more signs, and finished off the short roof with some beams (which seem to be a bit crooked...hmmmm).
Mark,
Very nicely done. I'm still kicking myself for not getting this model.
Tom ;D
Mark,
I like how you aged it. Very cool model.
Vilius
Thanks for the kind words Tom & Vilius.
This definitely is a nice looking building and I'm glad I picked one up before Jim stopped making 'em. Ok, here are a few updates. First off, the hole in the roof is not from a meteorite slamming into it. The roof cardstock had a hole pre-cut into it for the chimney...nice touch. For the chimney I first sprayed it with a reddish brown auto-primer, then used some full strength craft paint for the mortar, which I just brushed on, then wiped off until I liked the look. I dry fit the chimney into the hole, which was a tad too large. Hmmmm.
Sooooo, I added in a piece of roofing material to the back of the hole, then glued in the chimney, pushing it forward so that it was tight to the front of the roof. Then I tarred it in.
Very cool structure. I really like the way you refit and then tarred and weathered the roof and chimney.
Thanks Mike! I didn't want to try and fill the open area with "tar", which would have been messy.
Ok, I'm calling this build done. Except for some detail parts to be added, I'm pretty much finished with this one. Here are a few parting shots.
Hi Mark:
Looks great. Painted on sign came out very well. Keep up the good work.
Karl
Thanks Karl. I had fun building this kit.
Mark
Very nice job on the build.
Well done Mark.....great looking structure. 8)
very nice, great weathering job....old and rustic :) :)
Thanks Guys!
Nice coloring and weathering.
Jeff
Outstanding!
Vilius
Mark,
Very well done, most excellent! I love it!
Tom ;D
Mark,
Really nice looking model. Great job ! ;)
Tommy
Jeff/Vilius/Tom/Tom,
Thanks for the kind words. It was a fun build. I have 2 more Stella Kits on the shelf. I may break out another one after the new year and give it a go.