I am building Dyer's Hardware by Micro-Scale Models for the challenge. Why this kit? I build kits for other people and Dyer's was pretty much next in line. On the other hand, I don't see many Micro-Scale builds on the net so someone may find this thread useful.
I like using the technology whenever I can, especially if the task is tedious otherwise. One of these tasks is "painted"signs. I don't like sanding printed signs until I turn blue trying to make paper layer thinner. I scan the signs, print them on the tissue paper, and glue them. I also fix them if I need to. IN this case the shade of red of the printed sign wasn't what I wanted and the sign had some grayish background. The tissue signs have one serious flaw. The white color or no color areas to be exact becomes nearly transparent when glued. It isn't a big deal if the wall is white or the sign has no white. Otherwise the area of the wall where sign goes needs to be painted white. After trying that on two models I wasn't too excited about it. I decide to try different approach. After I printed the signs and sprayed them with Workable Fixatif I cut them out, turned them over and sprayed with white paint. I was concerned about the paint soaking through or ability to adhere to the wall but didn't have a problem with any of these.
A note regarding Micro-Scale kits. They don't include wood for bracing. Their idea is to build the walls around the floors leaving the walls flexible and possibly warped until the final assembly. I have chosen to ignore this approach and brace just like other kits.
I am using the same color scheme as the original kind of just because the person I am building this kit likes that way. However, I just can't stand the cream color the Micro-Scale owners are in love with so I am replacing three color scheme with two eliminating the cream. I may get my hands slapped for it but so be it. It is a hobby and I don't want to be building something that I hate.
Here are some progress pictures.
Vilius
Hi Vilius,
I'll be following along. You're correct...I haven't seen a build thread on one of Micro-Scale's kits, so this should be interesting. I have their creamery kit so any tidbits of information on what to do/not do will be helpful.
Villius,
I have a few of the MS kits so I'll follow along as well. Looks like a great kit.
Tom ;D
I will be following along too.
Villius,
I will be following this build also.
Jim
You've sparked my interest as well, Villius! I've considered buying one or two of their kits many times.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Villius:
I have several of Don's kits. They are very well done and pretty easy to assemble. Your walls look great and I like the color scheme. Don't think I have that kit. Maybe I will buy it next time I see Don. Anyway you are right not to many of his kits are built on the net. I will be watching with great interest.
I have to of the short stone freight stations. Going to try to kit-bash them into A full size Reading RR freight station. We shall see how that goes. It has plaster walls.
Karl
Thank you everyone for visiting my challenge thread. Now I have all windows, doors, and shutters installed. Good thing I started with the right wall. The one that has two second floor windows very close to each other. The shutters are not designed to go with these windows because of two little bumps at the top and the bottom of each side, so at first I had a little gap between the windows and the shutters. However, after I tried fitting two shutters in the narrow space and couldn't I decided to remove the bumps. Since I started with the right wall I had just few shutters to re-install. I also cut of the bumps of first floor window what I wasn't supposed to do because the shutters are designed exactly for that style of window. I hope it isn't too noticeable.
I still ended up re-installing good third of the shutters because they really have top side and the bottom side so I had some of them upside down. Nobody would have noticed most likely but I would have known...
Next I am going to install the window "glass". Unlike some modelers I know I do not dread this task. I employ the technology and one or two tricks which make my life much easier.
Vilius
Hi Vilius:
The walls look great.
Karl
Mega ditto to what Karl said.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on September 26, 2016, 04:00:05 PM
Hi Vilius,
I'll be following along. You're correct...I haven't seen a build thread on one of Micro-Scale's kits, so this should be interesting. I have their creamery kit so any tidbits of information on what to do/not do will be helpful.
I'll be following along as well. I have a church kit of theirs I'd like to build someday so this will help. ;)
Everything looks great so far! :D
Your off to a great start.
Don't build anything you hate.
That says it all.
Cool.
Jaime.
I'm really starting to like this kit. Hmmm.
Tom ;D
Looking good so far. I hope you'll share your window install tips with us. :)
Jeff
Thanks, guys. I thought about posting my window tips today. Then I got lazy and decided to postpone it or skip it all together hoping no one would remember. Now that Dr.Jeff has asked for the tips... Here it goes.
Remember I use the technology so my way isn't for everyone.
Before I glue the windows and doors I take one of each style and scan them using my scanner. I place the backs on the glass. I scan into Photoshop Elements that came with my computer or perhaps my camera. I don't remember. The scanners also come with some software that allows to save scans in a file. My CAD software reads pictures only bmp and wmf formats so I save scans in bmp.
Next I start my CAD software and load the scan. I am using TurboCAD v7. It is ancient but it is still working. What it is good about it that it inserts pictures into the drawings and keeps all of the dimensions. I trace inside of the windows and doors by drawing the lines. See the picture below.
Then I copy and paste the rectangles in the different area of the drawing. I rotate them so that they are perpendicular, change the color to black, add some thickness to the lines, mark top and the bottom panels. After that I create copies and print the sheet.
I take the sheet and cut out the area containing the templates. Depending on the number of the templates and the size of clear plastic I have, I may cut into smaller pieces. I attach the templates to the clear plastic with Paper Cement. I used to use white glue but it leaves the residue that is not easy to get rid off. The Paper Cement stays attached to the paper when I peel it off. So, I let Paper Cement to dry for several minutes and the I cut out "windows" using the templates and peel off the paper. The next step is optional. I throw the "glass" into rubbing alcohol to get rid of fingerprints and other stuff. I let them soak for 10-15 minutes. I take out the "glass" with the tweezers and touch paper towel with the edge of the plastic to get most of RA off. I check to make sure there are no any dust particles stuck. If there are, I try washing them off by dunking back in the RA and moving around. Sometimes I need to use my fingers to remove most stubborn dust. After that I rinse the "glass" in RA again. Once it is dust free I dunk it in the Future (clear gloss acrylic) for clean glass or mix of Modelmasters clear satin and flat for the dirty glass look and place it on the window. The acrylic acts as a glue, so there is no need to be extremely accurate applying the other glue you may use, there is no oozing and cleanup. Also gloss acrylic adds some reflection that real glass has.
I hope my explanation is understandable. Please ask questions if it isn't.
Vilius
Thanks Vilius. That's a very clever solution! For a large structure with a lot of windows that seems like it would certainly be worth the extra effort. I like the tip about soaking the windows in rubbing alcohol too. I usually just clean them off with a cloth. I'll have to try the rubbing alcohol.
Hi Vilius:
Thanks for the information.
Karl
Thanks for the tip, Vilius. I think in a structure with a lot of windows this would help my "windowphobia". ;D
Jeff
This is a little off subject. On windows does anyone ever use the laser cut window material that comes with the Tichy window packages?
Mike Sigmon
Mike,
No, I like using the Canopy Glue instead. Its nice they include the Acetate for the window glass but I've never used it.
Tom ;D
I have used Tichy window "glass" but on few occasions only. I don't do much of scratchbuilding or kitbashing. Their glass is OK or at least better than old Bar Mills that had thick edges, round corners and were fogged up. I am talking about the BM kits that came in the clear plastic boxes. Since then BM folks have improved their process.
I started assembling the structure. This part of kit building I like best. It looks like I am making some serious progress without much of the effort.
Disclaimer. No clamps have been used to glue all this together.
Vilius
Hi Vilius:
Looks absolutely wonderful!!!!! Great job so far.
Karl
Vilius,
I agree, beautiful work. Very well done.
Tom ;D
"Disclaimer. No clamps have been used to glue all this together." Sayyyy Whattttt? ;D
Very neat way of doing the windows Vilius. Thanks for the tips. Your build is really coming along nicely. Keep the pics coming.
Quote from: TheUkranian on October 05, 2016, 09:24:27 AM
I have used Tichy window "glass" but on few occasions only. I don't do much of scratchbuilding or kitbashing. Their glass is OK or at least better than old Bar Mills that had thick edges, round corners and were fogged up. I am talking about the BM kits that came in the clear plastic boxes. Since then BM folks have improved their process.
I started assembling the structure. This part of kit building I like best. It looks like I am making some serious progress without much of the effort.
Disclaimer. No clamps have been used to glue all this together.
Vilius
Okay, I'll bite. Why not clamps?
Looking good Vilius. :) Have fun with it.
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Superb workmanship Vilius.....I've got my eyes on you!!
Thank you, everyone, for stopping by.
John, you will be disappointed in my answer. I intended the disclaimer to be just a joke and nothing more. I was amazed seeing how many clamps Mark owns and uses. Then the thought crossed my mind "Hey, I didn't use a single clamp" and put it out. Perhaps "No clamps have been hurt making this model" may have been better. It doesn't mean I have anything against them or the way Mark is using them. I simply don't own the right clamps.
Vilius
I am not too far from being done. I need some 5 more lunch breaks perhaps.
Vilius
Hi Vilius:
Very well done the Mfg would be proud of your build. The cap shingles are great arn't they.
Karl
Karl
Karl,
Thank you. The cap shingles take some time to do but they are worth the effort.
Vilius
Vilius,
I'm really enjoying your build thread. You are doing a great job on this kit. As for the clamps, I'm not sure why I started using them...it just snowballed into a clamp addiction with me! :o
Vilius,
Clamps or no, the build looks great. ;D ;D
Most modelers don't realize just how important cap shingles are on a model. They change the entire look of the model and as you say well worth the effort on the appearance of the finished model.
Well done.
Tom ;D
Hey Vilius,
Awesome job on the front sign and the clap boards. You are a master at those 2 techniques. I also really like your roof. Did you use Marker or Paint on the strips of roofing material to get the neat variation in single color?
Thanks for sharing!
Alan
Thank you, guys. I need to get some clamps for 1:1 scale project. I hope it isn't going to turn into addiction :)
I painted streaks of browns and grays on the sheets of roofing material.
Vilius
Nice looking structure...gonna have to check them out. Love your color scheme.
Thank you, Dave.
I finished it finally over the long weekend. It had been sitting on a shelf for good couple of weeks nearly done. I actually messed up back porch roofing two times and had to re-do it. The moral of the story is. Even it says you can spray metal with Rust-Oleum paint, use automotive primer first.
Vilius
Well done Vilius, good looking structure..... 8)
Nice work, Vilius. I especially like the foundation.
Jeff
As always great work Vilius.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 28, 2016, 03:57:00 PM
Nice work, Vilius. I especially like the foundation.
Jeff
Vilius
What Jeff said! It is really nice to see a proper foundation on your model. Way to many structures make it on to layouts without foundations.
H Vilius:
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gorgeous job.
Karl
Hi Vilius,
The model turned out really nice.
Beautiful job and great looking structure. All thumbs up here.
Tom ;D
Thank you, guys.
Vilius
Great job Vilius , colors , weathering, signs, roofs all look great.
Thanks, Jan.
Vilius