I'm probably too late to sign-up but I couldn't find the rules. In any event, I will do a relaxed pace build thread. I've only done a few O scale models but I really love doing them. So here is Doug's O Scale Gas Station.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-031016204332-16656366.jpeg)
I'm in the following mood.
Me to.
Jim
I ordered this one the last week, so I'm really interested to follow your build!!
And I'm sure that will be an excellent reference for me ;)
Hi Mike:
Will be watching.
Karl
I'm in for following your build, Mike.
-Joe
I'll be watching Mike.....I've really liked the few O scale kits from Stoney Creek I've done. :)
I'm tagging along....
Nice.
Be sure to use some O scale paint.
Jaime.
Love to see O scale kits built. I have this one on the shelf incase I ever want to do O scale
Mike Sigmon
Jacksonville
Mike,
Its never to late to build. I'm following also.
Tom ;D
I'm in as well. I really like this kit from Doug.
Mike
I'm glad your joining in and I will be watching. I haven't seen any rules - I don't think we need them. It is cool having all that prize money on the line though.
I'll be watching too
Rodney
Mike:
I'm looking forward to your build in O scale.
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Great!! I'm all eyes and ears.....(and other body parts I don't care to mention)....
Doug's display models are so magnificently done. I'm very intrigued to see what you do with this one in O scale, Mike. Consider me a viewer.
John
Thanks all of you- I hope I won't disappoint. I am dragging my heels a little bit for a couple of reasons- I'm waiting for the build traffic to thin a little bit. I don't want to get lost in the shuffle. The number of threads is incredible- this Raymo guy is like the Pied Piper! Also, I'm eager to take the photos with my new iPhone 7+. It should be here in a week or so. The lens(es) are supposed to be terrific. I also have a tripod for it and an app for a timed release shutter. Finally, I want to work a little ahead of posting, as work, grandkids, NNGC 2018 planning, and doing layout work and finishing my wharf diorama will occasionally tend to get ahead of this on my priority list.
So- I not only dragged my heels, I took a little break. This is hilarious- I went through the thread listing to see if anyone had done a thread on this kit, and it turns out someone had started one- ME!!!
Like I said about seven months ago, I have a lot on my plate! I hope I was able to remove the 2016 Raymo challenge part of the title- that is too embarrassing.
So right to the build, I started with the main building walls. First, you can't over-brace unless you brace over something like a window opening. Gerry from Mt. Albert Scale Lumber has been selling at the last few shows bundles of stripwood seconds at great prices, a lot of it 1/4" square- perfect for even a structure of this size. Try to use the same thickness bracing on each wall as it will be easier later to use a pounce wheel if you choose to add nail holes.Then came a staining of all die-cut scribed siding and stripwood with 91% A/I.
Doug describes using a coat of clear Crackle Finish, and after it dried paint the walls and trim with your acrylic color, and almost right away use a hair dryer to get a peeled paint effect. Mine didn't turn out so well so I went over the walls by splotching on (lightly) some tan paint using a fine kitchen sponge. A new terry-cloth wash cloth also will work ($ Store). Weathering walls is also good- some use brushes and card files, No. 11 blades, etc. before or after painting.
Next the contrasting painted trim is added, along with laser cut layered windows and doors, acetate for windows, door hardware, and even all the signs and in this case the Dr. Pepper vending machine. The idea is to do as much as you can and add as much detail as possible while the walls are flat on your workbench. You'll know what I mean if you try to get a little sign on straight after the building is built.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-100517172428-218652101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-100517172428-218652101.jpeg)
Great start Mike.....glad to see you back at it. 8)
Mike,
Walls look great. Nice to see your work on the forum again.
Looking good Mike. Nice choice of colors. I like the way you've made the walls discolored (rusty?) under the signs.
Mike, just ......
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51lr0UJWVZL._SX331_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg)
Thanks for your comments- it is good to be back.
I guess I should have showed you a photo of where this is going, for those who aren't familiar with this FOS Scale Models kit through Doug's FB and website promotion. I love this design, and was excited to see he has added a little "Pop Gunn's Grocery" to a line of O scale structure kits Doug is calling the "Montrado" line. Technically they are "O" scale, since "On30" is a gauge, not a scale, but the good news is that Doug has gone over to "the Dark Side". I hope they sell like crazy and there are many more of these kits to come.
FOS has certainly become the leader in unique, interesting, and fun kit designs over the years. His weathering and aging techniques are superb, and nothing has matched his series of wharf and waterfront diorama kits the last several years.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517124219-219151934.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517124219-219151934.jpeg)
I had to take a break after I got an email from FOS saying they were introducing a big new sawmill and planing mill complex in HO. To save the shipping costs I had to order today, so I of course did. This Doug guy sure can put a dent in your pocketbook and annual kit budget. Besides his high level of creativity he is extremely prolific. A couple of years ago I think he produced eight new structure kits in a 12 month period. Check out his website- way cool! fosscalemodels.com
The shed walls are board-on-board and applied to a black cardstock sub-wall, maybe Strathmore. I used 3M transfer adhesive to apply the individual pieces of stripwood that were first stained with alcohol and powdered pastel chalk (Rembrandt). This method Doug credited to Brett Gallant at Sierra West Scale Models, and is extremely effective. I've used it several times before on Brett's kits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-100517172428-218782188.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-100517172428-218782188.jpeg)
I also used a variation of Brett's famous "Stripwood Trap" so that the two outside corners on the shed would be perfect. After taping the sub-wall to my glass desktop, I applied the vertical wall planks starting at both ends and met in the middle. Before I began, I taped 1/4" sq. vertical guides on both ends that were exactly the thickness of the stripwood board plus the thickness of the subwall away from the subwall ends. Then the first piece of planking is placed flush against the guide and onto the transfer adhesive covering the subwall. The overhang of the siding will perfectly overlap the end of the sidewall and you get a perfectly aligned corner when you glue the two walls together. Use your squares, weights , etc., and it also helps to use a glass work surface like I do as it is perfectly flat.
The front wall, door, and windows are many pieces of layered laser board, acetate, and signs that were painted and assembled flat on the work bench. There are a lot of signs all that were cut after the sheet was backed with the transfer adhesive. The circular signs are tedious, but having a small sharp curved scissors helps. Since all of these signs were the ceramic or metal type, no sanding the back or rubbing them into the siding grooves was necessary. I did stain just the edges with a fine "Sharpie" and weathered with chalks and A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517164926.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517164926.jpeg)
Mike
Your modeling looks great. I think Raymo needs to start a 2017 summer challenge.
Lookin' good so far. Nice finishes and love the signs.
Jeff
Wow!
John
Double Wow! :D
Glad to see you back at it Mike. This kit is a work of art. There's no doubt about that. You're doing a wonderful job with it!
Nice!
Thanks John, Jeff, John, Bob, and Mark.
A look at the back wall before the roofs were added. I also added a door to the side wall of the shed. It seemed to be a good idea to have access from the outside to a shed that was added to the main building. I just used stripwood and didn't even cut an opening since you couldn't see anything through the door. I will add hinges and a latch.
Windows are lined with stripwood and are glazed with acetate sprayed with "Workable Fixatif", the new Dull-cote.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517132614.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517132614.jpeg)
This photo shows the front wall and one of many cool details that you build up- in this case the Dr. Pepper vending machine. More fun than just painting a casting! You glue some pieces of die-cut 1/8" wood together for the main box, and then lasered pieces, painted wire for bottles, a sliver of acetate and "Sharpie" silver to paint frame. Two laser cut vents and a coin box. Sign from Doug's printed sheet. I painted mine "FolkArt" 619 Poetry Green. If you Google Dr. Pepper images you will see several shades of green were used through the years. See the May 13th Baggage Car for some other good suggestions on the color.
The front door hardware included a laser-cut door knob plate, and a tiny tack is used for the door knob.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517124220-21956450.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120517124220-21956450.jpeg)
Mike
It looks great! Your detail work is fantastic.
Excellent , weathering is spot on.
Hi Mike:
It's a WOWZER!!! Very nicely done as always. Your models always impress me. Keep up the good work.
Karl
Mike,
As usual, absolutely beautiful. I especially like the soda machine.
Mike ......
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Hey Mike
A great job on the weathering and details.
Jerry
Thanks John and Jan, Karl and Donato, and Jerry and his other brother Jerry. I do love weathering, and while I'm getting better at it, whenever I try to weather something to the level that Doug Foscale does it unfortunately looks like a mess. Mine is under-stated compared to Doug's as shown in the first photo of this thread. But that is the nice thing about weathering- there is probably a proto-type for about any amount you do. Great weathering is in the eye of the beholder.
While some new photos are hanging up to dry in the dark room, here is a practical tip for those lucky enough to still have Floquil paint jars around, both Poly scale and the regular oil base stuff. Much longer shelf life and very easy opening can be accomplished by this little trick a lot of you probably know. Cut several thin plastic sandwich bags or similar into 2" X 2" squares, and put one square under the cap before you replace it to "seal" the paint. Keep the remaining squares on hand so they are ready when needed. You won't believe how great this is until the next time you use this bottle of paint, even if years later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161809-22105624.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161809-22105624.jpeg)
So back to the real non-build thread- more of a progress report thread. The first photo shows the main and shed roof bases in place, both of which are thin cardstock. I weighted the bases well so that there would be no gaps between the roofs and the walls.
The second photo shows all my weights holding the 2x10 trim on the top of the parapet walls, and the main building to the foundation slab. The slab isn't really visible here.
Both roofs are from a paper thinner than construction paper but a little heavier than regular 20# bond paper. Painted with Grimy Black and dry brushed with white. Doug advised to cut into strips and adhere to the roof bases with 3M transfer adhesive, which I use whenever I can. I applied the transfer adhesive to the back of the painted paper before it was cut into strips. They were applied edge to edge rather than overlapped, and after all were in place tar seams were painted with acrylic Mars Black with a tiny brush. A little out of the lines here is OK- it is tar they were using and neatness didn't count much. More weathering with chalks to come.
You can see the 2x10 parapet wall caps are all in place in the last pic. Doug added flashing to his model by taking regular copy paper and coloring it with a bronze metallic Sharpie, and then dry brushing it with a mint green color. He cut into strips a little wider than the trim and then glued them in place to the top of the caps so they looked like bent metal at the edges. This is something I'm going to trial a little later before I actually do it to my model. I kind of like how it looks now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161812-2218375.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161812-2218375.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161813-22184975.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161813-22184975.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161813-221851107.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-170517161813-221851107.jpeg)
The foundation and pump island slabs were die-cut 1/8" thick basswood painted concrete and weathered with A/I and chalk. !/8" sq. wood was used for the timber "T" support.
Several cool castings were included, notably the gas pump (two parts) and air pump. Blacken-It followed by acrylics, A/I, and chalk depending on the piece. The gas hose was made from .040" solder- nozzle body was a very thin strip of masking tape around the solder and a short piece of .020" wire became the handle.
The Greyhound sign was made my making the sign support from 3/64" stripwood and a wire support. The roof sign letters were die-cut and mounted to a stripwood framework built on a template included. Many detail castings will be used later when this goes on a diorama or a layout when I can add scenery. For now it will stand as a "structure" for an upcoming contest. A scrap car door, a radiator, barrels, crates, tools, and pallets are some of the ones I saved until later. I did use the electric meter and breaker box, and I connected them with the thin brass wire that was blackened and touched up with Grimy Black before gluing to the wall with the Formula 565 Canopy Glue.
This was a lot of fun, and a kit that would be a blast for all skill levels. I stuck to the instructions for the most part, but it would be easy to take it in other directions. Biggest problem I see is that this O scale thing might become addictive- I've already ordered Doug's new "Pop Gunn's Grocery".
I'll post some final pics and let you know how this fared in the contest.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223872212.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223872212.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223921667.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223921667.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223931761.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223931761.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223942020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-220517175220-223942020.jpeg)
Mike,
Very, very nice! I love the little touches, the scratches in the oil drum, the mortar stuck to the side of the cement block, the slightly broken corners of some boards. I am a little surprised to see that Pepsi crate with green and gray quart cans. Which color can is Tom's diet Pepsi?
Outstanding Mike!
Neat. Love the gas pump/hose/handle. More pictures, please. One thing I'd add is some kind of latch and some hinges on the shed door. Good luck in the contest!
Jeff
Mike,
Excellent build!!!!
Frank
Looks great Mike! The details really shine on the O gauge buildings.
Mike:
Looks just great.
Karl
Thanks Jerryrbeach, Donato, Frank, MAP, and Karl. Dr. Jeff, thanks for the catch. I did have some door hardware on the punch list- you can see it in the first pic coming up. This has been a great little kit. I took it to Ames, Iowa last weekend for a combined region NMRA convention. I entered it as a structure (no scenery allowed) in the judged model contest and was happy to have won a first place. There were a lot of details in the kit I couldn't use since I did not incorporate it into a diorama.
Here are a few more photos, and thanks for watching this little project. I've already started on a neighboring business- "Pop Gunn's Grocery Store." And thanks to Doug Foscale for this design- too often we don't give these kit producers nearly enough credit for their imaginative creations.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-225601735.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-225601735.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-225591534.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-225591534.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-225581895.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-225581895.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-224152084.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290517192339-224152084.jpeg)
Fantastic Mike , small building , big in details.
Mike,
Thanks for posting the additional photos. These views really allow us to see the overall effect of the signs and weathering.
Hi Mike:
Absolutely beautifully done. Love the colors and weathering. Also great job on the soda machine.
karl
Excellent job Mike..... 8)
Excellent Mike. You set the bar high no doubt.
Mike,
Your gas station is looking great. I like your weathering.
Mike,
I would expect nothing less than superb from you.
You did deliver. Thank you for posting.
ed
Mike,
When was the last time you saw free air? -:)