So, I spent a few days not feeling well and many hours flipping thought pictures from the FSM thread and got really attached to the Leroy's Grill building. I had a couple of store fronts left over from a chopped up DMP kit (I think) and had been pondering using them in a build for a while. After playing in the parts box to find windows and doors I devised a plan.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-011216101400.jpeg)
I don't believe these are the exact windows used. I suspect those may be some of George's on castings but the feel is there. I'm looking for inspired by rather than copied anyway.
So here goes:
I have two of the store fronts. So I made copies of them to work with.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-021216094422-184742429.jpeg)
I cut paper store fronts to use as design templates.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-021216094423-184762441.jpeg)
I marked up a master for cutting positions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-021216094423-18477898.jpeg)
I went though several iterations until I found the design I liked best.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-021216094423-184782166.jpeg)
And here is the final design. There will be much filing involved in getting all of the sections together cleanly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-021216094423-184791049.jpeg)
Hi Roger:
The store front came out nicely. Not sure but I think George used to use Magnuson Kit parts for some of his store fronts.
Karl
Karl - You're probably right for the store fronts. I think my DPM donors are working out pretty well.
Here are the storefront components after about 3 hours of sanding with a NWSL True Sander. If I try something like this again I will have to give serious consideration to some manner of powered sander.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-031216223300.jpeg)
The entrance doors to the right are going to join the window front at a 45 degree angle. I need to decide how the two bits will attach. After today's sanding marathon beveling both on a 45 doesn't sound like much fun.
Bob Lunde (now Lunde Studios) was the designer of both Magnuson and DPM kits so the store fronts should be similar.
Mike
Hi Roger,
It looks like you're off to a great start on this one. It'll be fun to follow along with your build. :D
Great start Roger.....this looks like it will be interesting when you get it done. 8)
Mike - I met Bob Lunde at a train show in Houston a few years ago and talked with him at length about the Magnuson kits. They have always been favorites of mine. I was surprised to hear that he wasn't happy with them. He felt the bricks were too course. He was also offering a deal that was simply too good and I left with examples of his new line. They are very nice.
Bob and Gregory, thank you. This one is fun.
To that end, I spent some time today working on it. I did some final work on the store front and glued it up. I also got to work designing the upper stories.
I decided to design the upper floors as the siding sheets I have are only wide enough for those. I'll have to add the siding for the lower floor and the gable ends to that, but this will give me a solid core.
Referring to the pictures in this post: http://modelersforum.com/the-official-fsm-layout-thread!/franklin-south-manchester-railroad-2016-from-the-air/msg59021/#msg59021 I counted off trim boards to roughly match the layout. My windows scale out pretty close to those in the original based on the number of trim boards.
I counted out a horizontal grid with 2 boards above, 14 boards for the window course, 5 boards between the top and lower course and allowed the remainder below the lower windows. You can see where I numbered the boards on the left end of the board. I laid out the horizontal spacing based on multiples of window widths. One width to the left, on with between the first two, about 1.5 between the next and so on. Again, the goal was to replicate the feel of the original. I checked this against the width of the storefront windows to ensure it balanced as well. Once I was satisfied I marked out window locations on the siding sheet.
This picture shows the front and right walls with the wall ends marked and windows in the basic location.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-041216193441-18480719.jpeg)
Here is a closer shot of the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-041216193441-18505301.jpeg)
Then I finalized the cut marks for the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-041216193441-185061092.jpeg)
I raised everything up on some half inch foam in order to make sure I liked how the store fronts balanced with the upper floor. Raising it up allowed me to put the entrance doors on a 45 degree angle setback at the right end. The store front is shown after I cemented the sections together. The will need some sanding and filling to clean up the joints and I am still not certain how I want to have the corner posts at the right interact between the front wall and the doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-041216193441-185071580.jpeg)
Here you can see all 4 wall sections. I started with the front wall and worked to the right. The right end has separate upper and lower sections due to the shed roof. The back wall at the far right does not appear to have any openings in the photos. I'm debating if I should add some windows as I don't know how it will end up being located on a layout. But it appears that the hallway to access the hotel rooms runs on the back wall with all of the rooms facing the front so maybe they are not needed. It would certainly reduce the noise from the tracks. The left wall shown to the left side of the picture was cut from a separate piece of siding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-041216193441-185081124.jpeg)
And here are all 4 walls cut out and ready for the windows to be opened up. It appears that I will need to trim 2-3 courses of siding from the bottom of the front wall to balance the overall hight. Obviously I'll need to extend the right and left sides and back to created the first floor for those. And of course the end gables. On the top left section you can see a tracing mark for the upper section of stairs leading to the 3rd floor door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-041216193530.jpeg)
Got a bit of work done tonight on finishing out the walls. The lower extensions are cut and marked for doors as well as the gable end upper sections. The front wall was trimmed a bit at the bottom to clear the storefront windows. You can see the notch on the right end wall. The back wall will get a plain "concrete" lower wall I think to reduce the amount of milled siding used. It appears that George did something similar on the original.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-051216223457.jpeg)
Next up will be sanding the storefront windows to clean up the butt joints and figuring out the interface of that and the doors on a 45 degree inset. Also, all those lovely window opening need to be cut.
You're doing a nice job. Thanks for the pictures
Thanks, I'm having fun with this one.
I just finished an hour or so with a sharp knife cutting out the window openings. I primed all the windows earlier and need to let them dry before I sand to a final fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-061216192749.jpeg)
Hi Roger:
Looks great so far. What are you gonna do for the sign. I believe George used dry transfers for the Leroy's sign hiligthed with red paint. Not to mention being able to get those fonts.
These are difficult to come by these days as the computer has kinda made them obsolete. Woodland scenics still makes some but probably not big enough.
Maybe the sign could be computer generated on a green background. I think this method would work out well. Let Me know what you think.
Karl
Thanks Karl.
I remember reading about how George would hand paint the drop shadows under dry transfer letters. I'm not sure how I'll approach the signs. I may try to hunt down some lettering on the web. The big sign could be done with a printed sign but the signs on the siding really need to look painted onto the boards. Things to ponder. :)
Last night was the moment for me to do my flight attendant impersonation. Brace! Brace! Brace! Does anyone ever have enough weights?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-081216092443-186071444.jpeg)
This morning things looked good.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-081216092443-186081844.jpeg)
I used plain basswood for the lower extension on the back wall. This will be painted to represent a concrete wall. From the shots I've been able to find this appears to be what George did on his.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-081216092443-186092311.jpeg)
Here are all the walls laid out with the store fronts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-081216092443-186101346.jpeg)
And I decided to get out the masking tape and do a reality check to make sure everything fits so far.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-081216092443-186112431.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-081216092512-18612285.jpeg)
The main roof will be from card. I've not done that large a roof in card stock before and I suspect I'm going to need to install a ridge beam to keep it from sagging over time.
Roger...
For a building this cool you might consider framing it out. Card stock that large is rather unstable and would need a lot of bracing.
Besides.......... Even though others might not see it... You'll know what is in there. Framing a roof is a lot of fun. I can answer questions as to how to speed the process and avoid a lot of tedious cutting of parts.
see ya
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-020615151302.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-020615151302.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-020615151239.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-020615151239.jpeg)
Bob, framing out the roof is a thought. I'm not sure I want to go there with this one. I was thinking of using some triangular supports so that the roof was removable. I may want to put interior baffles in it so that it can be lit. You're roof framing looks very nice. Its tempting.
Karl, I've spent far too much brain power on the sign today. I think George used dry transfer letters, embellished them, then added the red drop shadow. I've had no luck finding the dry transfer letting today. It seems to be a thing of the past. But I did find a new way to drive yourself mad. Try choosing a font from here: http://www.1001fonts.com They have vintage fonts separated into decades. I'm also not sure I want to use the same name George did. It was meant to be in the style of, not a copy. But who knows. I do plan to use similar colors.
Karl, I have a font update. I think I found about as close as I'm going to get. http://www.1001fonts.com/angleterre-book-font.html You can put in your own phrase at the bottom of the page. It looks very close to the original except for the swirl to the left of the L and P. I suspect those were added. Also the apostrophe is more filled in on George's. Next issue is the ever present problem of white decals. But its a start.
Roger,
Take a look at the fifth page of the hoffinmier brewery build in scratchbuilding. I did the signs with transfer using matte medium right on painted wood. used regular color printer, just have to mirror image. It would be a little more work for clapboard. I will try it tonight to see how it comes out....and send you a result.
Loren...
Loren,
I remember that article and your results look great. The problem I have is the age old how to get white lettering. Is there a way to adapt this to get that result? Beyond that I'm considering having a stencil cut with the lettering and then sponging on the white bit. I'll be curious to see the results you get with your test on clapboard.
Thanks
Roger,
I did a test last night, and the clapboard can be tough. I did a quick one, and the raised edges of the clapboard are hard to get the paper off of without removing the ink. will try again tonight. I assume you want it to be like the first picture with the black boarder? if so that is easy, as you simply paint the under coat white, and your letters in essence are clear. if the black boarder is not there, than quite sure how to achieve that one....
will post up my test tomorrow..
Loren...
Roger,
Did some quick and dirty tests. The grill sign could have red shading done on it, I did not have a full blown power point version to work in, so only got basic lettering. you could then go back and paint the building color around the letters. Also, there is still some paper residue that still has to be removed. I am still working on the clapboard tests. Here is a quick one I did that came out so...so....I printed these in a low DPI, if you go to staples they can print in 2,000-3,000 dpi. I will have better clapboard tests up tomorrow.
Loren...
Loren,
Those tests look great. I'll have to play with the technique myself. The clapboard looks good too. The bit of image pull off could be touched up for the pool sign I'll need. Thanks again.
I haven't had much time to work on the build the last couple days. Got pulled off on family stuff. I did manage to get the storefront sanded and set up. I used a couple of styrene gussets to fix the 45 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-101216162106-18645933.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-101216162106-186431723.jpeg)
Looks like this will work out nicely.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-101216162106-186461485.jpeg)
So I'm wondering, do most of you paint the inside of buildings black unless you are doing an interior? I know I've seen it done on some builds.
Roger,
So I tried in vain to get the clapboard better, but it was just not meant to be. The good news is for the black signs, you can change the letters to white in word, or power point with a black box around them. This will enable you to do them the old fashion way, by just sanding the paper real thin, and gluing on. you could do the same for the grill sign, and then just paint around the letters with the building color. Build is coming out very nice.
Loren...
Loren,
I appreciate your efforts. The method still does a nice job of a well worn sign on clapboard. I have access to one of those stencil cutting machines and I'm going to take a shot at making a stencil for the grill sign and the pool sign. We'll see how that works out.
Today I only managed time to sand window openings so no pictures. Sorry guys.
In theory the next step should be base coating the walls and putting the final color on the windows that i primed last week. I also need to prime the store front. I also need to put some thought into the news stand and shoe shine end of the 1st floor.
HI Roger:
Sounds cool. Good luck with it. I'll be following along.
Karl
Roger,
So on the project I am working on, I need to do the same white letters on black background. I found an old kitbash article, that shows how to use dry transfer letters as templates. Here is what I did in five minutes.....first, underside is painted white, letters are applied, that black is painted over. You than remove the letters with masking tape...came out real nice...
Loren...
For my cigar factory, Craig Bisgeier and I did large laser-printer color decals for the signs. I under-painted white, and the decals wewe clear where the white showed through. That worked well for the colorful advertising signs on the side of the building.
you can get inkjet or color laser decal paper to print your own, but be sure to spray the large decals with some sort of fixative to give them strength while you position them.
dave
Loren - Your results look really nice. I remember that technique from years ago now that you mention it.
Dave - I've thought about decal sheets too for the black and white signs. I had some decal making kits somewhere in my stuff. I'll have to go on a hunt.
Thanks for both suggestions.
With the holidays and all I haven't made much progress on anything. I did manage to try out some Dr Ben's aged driftwood stain. I'm not sure of the results. On reflection maybe I was supposed to wipe it down after a few minutes? In any event, I just wanted something as an undercoat for the main wall paint so it should be fine. Hopefully I'll have more modeling time in the next few days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-030117112540.jpeg)
Cheers
Nice job Roger.
I'm another one who suggests framing out your roof. It doesn't have to be complicated framing and once the cardstock is glued to the framing it will be a sturdy one piece construction.
8)
Looking good, Rodger.
Some very interesting discussions going on here. I have saved that font site to my pockets. Great find!
Looking forward to your continued progress, cheers, Mark.
You guys......:) I've been pondering how to do framing all day in the back of my mind. I was really planning to just do some stiffeners and stub rafters on the outside of the walls but now I'm not sure. I wanted to make this roof lift off so that I could potentially do some lighting effects. But we will see. There is time left for that.
I've gone though my on hand supply of paint and picked to colors for the walls. The lighter color for the walls and the darker for windows, trim, and the metal store front. I'm planning to weather over the top of these so the lighter color will lighten up to more of a faded look. This will also let the signs get the same weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-040117223644.jpeg)
I think I may crack open a yellow box and see how George does the roof structure on one of his larger buildings.....
Cheers :)
Dave - It dawned on me today that they make white decal paper so I can just print the black and white signs on that. Should be easy. I'm having stencils cut for the pool and grill signs.
I had a little time to move this build forward today. First I wanted to share a discovery. I found LED light bulbs at my local grocery store that have a 5000K color temperature for only about $5 (US) for a pair. I replaced every light in my work room with these bulbs and the difference is remarkable. I previously had a variety or florescent twist bulbs and color would shift from one part of the room to another.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080117001743.jpeg)
Getting back to the build itself, I painted the walls the lighter green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080117001815.jpeg)
Once the green is dry I'll mask the back wall and paint the lower section to represent concrete.
Not much, but progress is progress.
Cheers
Roger, doesn't having consistent cheap lighting make such a big difference. It really helps to have paint at the bench be the same color at the layout.
Yes, the lighting is very nice. And the 5000K color is just brighter. With my starting to age eyes it makes a huge difference in the work room.
In other news, the stencil for the Leroy's Grill and Pool signs have arrived. I should get a lesson in how to paint with stencils later today. I also need find some bench time to detail the walls with popped boards and get started painting all the windows and the storefront. Soon....
Cheers
I had my stenciling class and I decided to start with the Pool sign. I forgot to take a picture but I masked off for the surrounding box with light grab masking tape. I worked the tape down into the texture of the wall with my fingernail. Then I used the stenciling brush to paint that in by stippling two coats of paint. I started at the top and worked around the stripe. By the time I got back to the start the paint had dried enough for a second coat. I then pealed up the tape and there we have it. A white box on a green wall. The stencil for POOL is shown to the left. I'll probably do that tomorrow. I'll try to remember to take more pictures too.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-200117220425.jpeg)
Cheers
Roger the build is looking great. What did you use to cut out the letters for the stencil?
Nice work Roger.
Usually I make my stencil with masking tape... What are you using for ???
Eric Quebec city
Roger,
That worked out real well so far.....and it looks like you did not get too much bleeding under the stencil either. I will have to think about this one for my project. Nice job...
Loren...
I stenciled the POOL sign today after letting the surrounding white box dry overnight.
For the white box I used 3/4" wide masking tape cut to the height needed for the middle. The width happened to work out well for the sign. I then used more masking tape spaced around that central box by eye to mark out the sign. Then I used the stenciling brush to paint that bit. The tape was burnished down into the clapboard with my finger nail. A cut stencil was not used for the box. I got a little bit of bleeding because I thinned the paint a little too much but its not enough to worry about. There is still weathering to do.
Now on to the word POOL.
I had a stencil cut in mylar film. I provided the sign as a graphic to a family member who has one of those crafting cutter machines. I think her's is a scan and cut. She had to modify my artwork to put connectors to the middle of letters so that the stencil did not fall apart. I practiced using the stencil and brush on some card stock. I got some bleed under on the card stock from the card being a bit glossy, the paint being a bit thin, and me being too aggressive with the paint and brush.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117182910-193591181.jpeg)
For the real sign, I was more careful. I positioned the stencil in place with masking tape and burnished it down into the siding. I measured repeatedly to get the wording centered in the box. If its off its by less than half a millimeter. Good enough for me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117182910-194001644.jpeg)
I used standard craft paint and extender. The extender thins the pain a little and also keeps it from drying out as fast. This works better than plain water. I've tried both.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117182910-194011202.jpeg)
To ready the paint for stenciling I put 3 drops of paint into a small plastic cup and added one drop of extender. I had used more extender yesterday with the boarder box which contributed to the small bleeds. The 3 to 1 ratio gave me the working time I needed without making the paint too thin.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117182910-19402867.jpeg)
I loaded the brush with pain and then took most of it back out on a pad of paper towel. This became the source for additional paint. You want a very dry brush for the stenciling.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117182910-194031496.jpeg)
I used the daubing method where you gently tap the brush vertically over the openings in the stencil. You have to work gently and put down a little paint at a time. I started at the top and moved down the stencil and then made repeated passes until I had the coverage I wanted. I peeked under the stencil a few times to check progress but you can tell pretty well without doing so. Even with the stencil taped down you need to hold it firmly in place so you don't get any shifting. It took about 4 passes to build up the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117183023-194041010.jpeg)
Here is a better view of the stenciling brush. It is purpose made for stenciling with firm bristles and a flat bottom. This is a fairly good quality brush. My initial practice was done with very cheep brushes and they were much harder to work with. Better to spend a little more on the brush and take good care of it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117183023-19405311.jpeg)
I pealed back the stencil but didn't pull it fully loose so that I could ensure the opacity of white paint matched the surrounding box. Looks pretty close.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117183023-1940685.jpeg)
And here is the finished stencil sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117183024-194071058.jpeg)
Once this dries I will have to go back with a fine brush and connect the letters by hand.
Cheers
The paint was dry enough to move forward before packing it in tonight. So using the smallest brush I have, a 000 pointer, I finished off the white portion of the pool sign.
Here's the brush.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117225608-194091077.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117225608-194101129.jpeg)
Using the same paint thinned 3 - 1 with the extender as I'd done for the stencil I filled in the cut outs of the letters. Then I practiced the swirl on the P on the practice card. I felt brave enough to try it on the real wall, probably because I'm too tired to think better of it. To make the swirl I put a drop of paint for the ending circle and then carefully attached it with the curved line from the top of the P.
Things came out pretty well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210117225608-194111699.jpeg)
Roger,
The Pool sign came out real nice.....
Loren...
That's a "COOL POOL" sign.
Jim
Thanks Loren, Jim.
The ONLY cool thing about being laid off is the extra modeling time. I stole an hour from the job hunt this afternoon to work on the drop shadow.
I searched my paint inventory and found some Country Red. I thinned it 3-1 with the extender. (3 drops paint to 1 drop extender.). This makes far far too much paint but I don't know how to get 1/3 of a drop of extender. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-230117181039-19427288.jpeg)
I also dug out a size 0 brush. This is a bit less pointed than the 000 I used to close in the white lettering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-230117181039-19428307.jpeg)
Then it was just a matter of going for it. I did practice a few times on the practice stencil on card stock. I pulled up a picture of George's original on my iPad to use as a reference.
I used the tip of the brush to cut in the slopes and ends and then the flat to fill in the shadow. I worked pretty much one board at a time going slowly to line things up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-230117181039-194292333.jpeg)
Then I moved on to the boarder. I cut in a 45 degree edge at the top left and lower right corners and again worked a board at a time to fill in the shadow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-230117181039-19430945.jpeg)
There were a couple of spots at the top where the red got onto the white paint. I let things dry for a while and then went back with a sharp X-acto knife and gently scraped the red paint off the surface. The real sign is only 2.5 inches tall so the picture actually looks worse than the original. The enlarged size shows flaws that you can't see on the real thing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-230117181039-19431965.jpeg)
I'm debating now if I want to use decals for the black and white signs or just get more stencils cut. I like how the paint on wood looks.
Cheers
It will be hard to get decals looking as good as the painted sign, great job.
The POOL sign looks great!
Jeff
I like it! Good job.
John
Hi Roger:
Looks great. Can't to see this on finished.
Karl
The build and sign work look great Roger. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Very nicely done! I'm enjoying the thread.
After much debate I've decided to put off the black signs for now. My eventual layout is planned to be set in 1940 so prices may change. Plus I might want to change the name of the hotel. But Leroy's is a go.
That said I've done a little more painting. I wanted the upper walls and the Pool sign to be faded. So I mixed up some very thin white paint. 15 parts extender/thinner to 1 part "white wash". Both are regular craft paints. I also painted the big sign board the darker color. It will be finished separately and applied to the front of the building. (This gives me infinite opportunity to get it right)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117105349-194321774.jpeg)
Once the walls were faded I decided to start the glue up. Here we have 4 walls and the store front set in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117105349-19475928.jpeg)
And here is were we stand this morning. All of the main walls are in place and the store front has a first coat of dark green. It needs another coat. I also painted corner posts and windows last night. Those need another coat too.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117105349-194761453.jpeg)
I need to cut some spacers to put in the long box portion of the building to keep it from bowing.
More to come.
Cheers
That is coming along fabulously! Instant 1930's-1940's! Very nice work.
Thanks everyone. More progress this evening.
I got a couple of spacers made from card stock into the large portion of the building to keep things square and another coat of paint on the windows and storefront. While those dried I started on the Leroy's Grill sign.
The sign board is the length of the building (inside the end posts) and 3/4 of an inch tall. Its cut from 1/8" thick basswood and has 3 or 4 coats of paint on it to get the grain to go away. I cut the stencil to the same with to make it easier to position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117231231-19477386.jpeg)
It took four passes with the stenciling brush to get the coverage I wanted. There are a couple of runs under where I rushed things but those will clean up with the tip of an x-acto knife once the paint dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117231321-195062065.jpeg)
A few hours and two episodes of Lemony Snickets later and the paint was dry enough to scrap off the oopses and fill in the lettering. I also added the flourish on the L freehand. The next step for the sign will be the red drop shadow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117231321-195072329.jpeg)
With pretty much everything in a holding pattern I was pondering if there was anything I could work on and realized I needed to transition the store front into the right wall. I needed a wedge shaped piece to fill the angle created there. This is a 1/8" square piece of strip wood cut in half vertically. I cut it roughly with an x-acto knife and a bit of luck and then sanded it down the rest of the way. Then I painted the two sides that will be exposed with the darker trim color. This was a bugger to photograph. The camera did not want to focus on anything but the background.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270117231321-19508425.jpeg)
Next will be applying trim and windows. I'll also need to start figuring out the left end of the building. I plan to have the news stand and shoe shine stand. Somewhere in my stash of photos I think I have some color photos of old magazines.
Cheers
I'm loving this .
Very nicely done!
Couldn't sleep tonight so I did some more work after the house settled.
I added corner posts, windows and doors. Its starting to look like a building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-290117001524-195091053.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-290117001524-195111524.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-290117001524-195121657.jpeg)
I also added that angled half post that will tie into the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-290117001524-195131802.jpeg)
Nice job on the build so far Roger.
Thanks Jim.
By total random luck and no planning what so ever, the thickness of the upper portion of the store front happened to be the same as the thickness of the wall board plus stiffening strip wood. So, in order to attach the store front to the building I was able to glue a strip of thick balsa to the lower back of the wall, let that dry and then glue the store front onto that lip. It's also got a bead of glue along the top and on the right of the main door. It worked out really well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-010217110552-19573316.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-010217110553-195761378.jpeg)
Here's a shot of the bracing strip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-010217111647.jpeg)
After the storefront dried I did a test fit of the big sign and found out it was 1/8" too tall. So I set up a new blade and sliced 1/16" from the top and bottom of the sign. The fit is just right. Now I just need to repaint the top and bottom of the sign green and tackle the red drop shadow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-010217110553-1957773.jpeg)
I really like how this is coming together. The next bit will be figuring out the news stand and shoeshine stand to the left.
Cheers
More progress on the build. I used some black card to block out the left side of the building and to give some structure to the left end of the store front windows. This will form the left wall of the restaurant and the back wall for the newsstand and shoeshine stand. The card is there for structure only and will be covered. I also started working on the interior of the restaurant. The gray wall is scrapbooking paper that had a nice texture. I'm going to add a strip of dark green to form wainscoting. The left wall will get the same treatment.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020217173635-19578643.jpeg)
I've also built up a base for the structure. The bottom is 1/16" basswood sized to make the buildings foundation and underlay the sidewalk. Then I cut a piece of 3/16" balsa to form the riser inside the building. This brings the floor up to the bottom of the storefront and forms the sidewalk. Note that the balsa is set back on the sides and back to allow the building to sit down around the middle portion. This makes a nice friction connection between the two and will allow the building to lift off the base to access the interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020217173635-19591949.jpeg)
Here is the building installed on the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020217173635-19592207.jpeg)
Here is a closeup of the area where the newsstand will be placed. Note how the wall to the left drops below the floor level. This post is were I made a deviation from the original building. The original had a thin wall here but I installed the stiffening strip wood all the way to the bottom. Rather than try to cut it away I just continued the siding down the post and added another corner post. I think it looks good and gives a contrast to the opposite corner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020217173635-195931629.jpeg)
And finally a view thought the windows into the restaurant. The interior will have a pool table to the left and tables to the right. A door in the left back corner will lead to the kitchen.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020217173635-195941085.jpeg)
That's all for now.
Cheers
Very Nice...!!
Thanks Donato.
So I did a bit more work today. I'm getting into some of the fiddly stuff where I'm designing as I go.
The two bottom floor side doors sit lower than the main floor level so I decided to cut in steps since you might catch a glimpse of that interface from the front windows. I cut away the thicker balsa layer inside of the door and then built up steps with thinner wood. On the right side the step got the same flooring as the restaurant. I made the cutout in the wrong spot so I had to make an adjustment that left a seam in the flooring but it should be hidden behind the hostess counter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217002534-195951058.jpeg)
On the newsstand side the steps will get painted along with the sidewalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217002534-19726842.jpeg)
I decided to box in the left side area with some vertical scribed siding. This will form the side and back walls for the newsstand and shoeshine stand. It got a coat of brown paint which will be darkened by an ink wash. The right wall needs a red and white shoeshine sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217002534-19727209.jpeg)
I also trimmed the front sidewalk slightly to square it with the building and marked out a grid for the sidewalk. This was done with a light pass of an x-acto knife followed by a sharp pencil to deepen and widen the grooves slightly. I'm thinking about using the wood burner to set these into the balsa. I need to test that first thought. I've never used one on wood as soft as balsa.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217002534-197281895.jpeg)
Here's the building on the base with the marked sidewalk. I rounded the front right turn in the sidewalk to give it a more finished look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217002535-19729397.jpeg)
I also added some blocking around the door to mount the inside walls. This was also done on the right side. On the left side I gave it a quick coat of the same paint as the inside walls just in case it shows around the edges.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217002603.jpeg)
Next up will be the sales counter and right wall for the newsstand.
Cheers.
This is a really great build... lot's of ingenuity at work here. Thanks for sharing.
John
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217103922.jpeg)
I press fit the walls and ceiling to make sure they still fit after painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217102816-19733633.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217102816-19734631.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-050217102816-19735378.jpeg)
Thank you John.
So, no takers on the lease? ;)
I've been working on this one a little each night for the last several days as each bit has been a glue and wait to dry moment.
First off, I was contemplating the function of the hotel and restaurant and decided that the restaurant is located in the lobby of the hotel so access to room floors would be from there. So clearly there needs to be a staircase visible though the windows. I decided to put it in the back right corner so that that one midlevel windows on the right looks into the stairs. I built up the lower half of the stairs with some balsa and a piece of bass wood cut to be the banister and outer wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217161958-198961166.jpeg)
After a night to dry we have this:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217161958-199902208.jpeg)
While that was drying I cut a ceiling from black card stock to close off the first level. This took some trial and error to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217161958-199912306.jpeg)
For now it press fits in place and will eventually provide the mounting surface for lighting for the restaurant.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217161958-19992507.jpeg)
Also that night I "painted" the restaurant walls with some scrapbooking paper. It has a nice brushed texture that makes the walls look a little aged. The paper is fairly heavy and gives a finished wall by covering the framing of the stiffening strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217161958-199932306.jpeg)
Getting back to the stairs, I cut another piece of basswood to form the outside of the second flight. The stairs to up to a landing and then turn 90 degrees. This took a little bit of creative clamping and weighting as the connection is very thin.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162315-199942497.jpeg)
With the eraser removed you can see the temporary blocking that was used to hold things in place while they dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162315-19995770.jpeg)
And here is the staircase in progress form the back side. The actual stairs are Central Valley plastic stairs with the edge sanded a bit flat to make for a better glue connection.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162316-199961508.jpeg)
More to come in a few minutes.
Next up is more work on the stairs. The second flight is more of the Central Valley stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162316-199971902.jpeg)
This took more creative blocking and a liberal dose of canopy glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162316-19998431.jpeg)
In the end it came out good. This is from the back side and will be against the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162430-199992045.jpeg)
I painted the wood with a gray that is a close match with the paper walls. I also used the gray to prime the plastic stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162430-20000226.jpeg)
This is the side that will face the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162430-200011174.jpeg)
While I was waiting for paint to dry I use some green scrapbooking paper to add a wainscoting around the walls of the restaurant. I carried this up the first half of the stairs as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162430-20002548.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162430-200032388.jpeg)
By the time the last picture was taken I had also glued in the wooden walls on the left section. They had been darken with india ink which gave it a nice rich tone. I left the ceiling lighter so that it would reflect more light into the scene.
Another liberal application of canopy glue was used to attach the stairs to the wall. I was careful to keep the glue off the bottom of the stairs as I did not want to attack the wall to the floor. I also used a sheet of wax paper under the stairs while the glue set to keep the floor safe. Note that the stairs have been painted a color similar to the flooring paper to imply the same carpeting runs up the stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162547-200041643.jpeg)
As soon as the canopy glue had grabbed (5 minutes or so) I lifted the building off the base and let it dry on its back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162548-20005478.jpeg)
Here is the view into the restaurant space with the stairs place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162548-20006749.jpeg)
Here is another view showing the left wall. I made the "kitchen" door from more scrapbooking paper. I used a plastic door to trace the shape and then cut it out. I used a brown maker to color the white edges of the paper. I let the wall color show though the opening to get the effect of glass so the servers don't run each other over coming and going.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162548-200072374.jpeg)
And just to close things out there's a street level view of the left end space of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-080217162548-200081551.jpeg)
Awesome interior build! Really liking your details mate!
Thanks Darryl.
I did some more work on the interior last night and this evening. First I made a simple front desk counter for the hotel. The gentleman checking in has clearly had too much too drink, that's why he's blurry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224651-200092313.jpeg)
Then I referred back to the awesome work of Troels Kirk on his Coast Line Railroad over on the "other forum" and used his chair making method. His were in O scale and these are HO but in a way these seem a little stronger owing to the smaller lengths of the legs, I suppose. In any event, I think they worked out well.
This photo shows the process from left to right. The fold lines were laid out and the overall strip cut. I then cut individual chairs. Next the legs were cut out. Then the chair is folded at the lines. I did this by folding against the edge of a small metal ruler. I pressed the entire chair flat between my fingers to get good creases on each fold. Finally a smear of canopy glue to secure the back and you have a chair. Thank's to Troels for this brilliant and cost saving idea. (Have you priced 30 HO chairs?)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224651-200312196.jpeg)
30 chairs. US penny for scale. (also the cutting mat has a 1 inch grid)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224651-20032309.jpeg)
I balanced a seated figure in one chair to make sure they scaled well. Looking good. (he's had a bit to drink too - blurry ;) )
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224651-20033784.jpeg)
Next I needed some tables. I decided to make 30" square tables for "2-top" seating. This isn't really a family restaurant so I figured it would mostly be single guys eating alone or with a buddy. The tops are cut from heavy card. I cut strips with an X-acto knife and then made the cross cut with my NWSL Chopper. The table bases are cut from some small dowel also using the Chopper and glued with canopy glue. Most of them are straight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224651-20034319.jpeg)
So I wound up with 30 chairs, 13 tables and one slightly inebriated gentleman.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224729-20035383.jpeg)
And finally we have the tables laid out in the restaurant. The pool table makes 14. Its a metal casting I picked up used. There are a couple of pool players with cues to go with it. I don't know who made it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-090217224729-200361680.jpeg)
I just finished putting a coat of black paint on the table bases. They should show well enough against the light floor and walls. The pool table got a coat of brown paint. From some research it appear for the time period the felt should be a natural tan or red in color. It seems like green felt is more modern. I'm not certain about that but I think I'll go with a nice red. There's enough green in this building already.
Cheers!
Love the interior ideas , no wonder your little people have had too much to drink , you keep saying " cheers " ;)
Thanks. That big set of windows just demanded something. Speaking of which, I glued in some tables and chairs this morning. They clearly need table cloths. I probably should have added those first. Live and learn. I think I'd also make some kind of table base, maybe just a circle of punched paper, but I don't think missing it will detract.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-100217101958-20037742.jpeg)
The view though the windows is looking good.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-100217101958-20039139.jpeg)
In a few interludes between other work today I made some tablecloths for the restaurant. They are just printer paper cut a bit bigger than the table top then folded down around an extra top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-100217181751-200401996.jpeg)
I applied a light coat of canopy glue to the top of each table and placed a cloth on it. I gently pressed them down with my finger to make sure there were no bubbles and left them to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-100217181751-20060944.jpeg)
After the glue had set I worked at the corners and edges with my fingers and a small stick to get the folds to lie down better. This would all have been easier if the tables were still loose. I could have glued the edges and gotten nicer corner folds. But all in all they came out ok.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-100217181751-20061214.jpeg)
Word is the guy in the gray jacket is from out of town. I hear his name is Han. The guy in the hat is a local who's rumored to be with the mob. His name is Guido. I'm not sure I trust either one. And I'm not sure where that guy Han's right hand is. He looks a little shifty. Hope he's not packing. Leroy doesn't like trouble in his place.
Cheers!
Roger
Great looking scene. The table clothes are a real nice touch. I hope they don't end up with blood on them. ;)
Roger, really nice looking structure. The interior modeling is really nice. Who's mold material did you use for the storefronts in this project ? 8)
Tommy
Thanks John, if the kitchen will hurry up with their food I suspect everything will be ok.
Tommy, the storefront started life as the lower portion of two DPM Goodfellows Hall kits. They were leftover from turning the Goodfellows Hall into a 4 story building years ago. The kits can be had from Woodland Scenics.
Here is that old modification. It got a bit beat up in the aftermath of the tornado but should make a solid background building one day.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-130217170319.jpeg)
I've been away from the board for a bit but I have still managed to get a little bench time lately. I started working on the roof. I cut shingle strips from Cason Pastel paper using a pair of pinking shears. I marked a line 5mm from the end of the sheet and cut along that line. Then I flipped the cut piece over and marked a cut line so that both strips would be the same size. Then repeat. Many many times. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-280217105612-20408899.jpeg)
I cut out a card roof panel to the with I wanted and a bit taller that needed. Then I marked out some guide lines 5mm apart to help keep the rows straight. I then laid out the shingles using canopy glue applied to the back of each strip with a toothpick. I had tried using the 3m transfer tape but it didn't provide enough contact surface. It went faster than I expected and I was able to straighten the rows with the edge of a ruler.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-280217105612-20425199.jpeg)
I ran the rows up until I was happy with the overhang and then trimmed the panel's height. I made two panels like this and marked the better one for the front.
This will disappoint some, but I decided against fulling framing the roof in favor of making it a lift off piece. I previously build a subroof from medium weight chipboard. I made two panels a bit narrower than the final roof width and tall enough to run from the peak to the wall. The chipboard is about 1/16 thick so I edge glued the ridge seam and reinforced it with several chipboard triangles. I forgot to take a picture of it but I will add one later. Right now the subroof is a bit buried.
I laminated one of the roof panels to the subroof using canopy glue. Too ensure the panel glued on flat I used a few weights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-280217105612-204261241.jpeg)
That's pretty well every blue weight I have. I did not want to risk any warping. The second panel is drying now.
Cheers
Great progress Roger..... 8)
The weights are off so I can share a few more pictures. Here is a view of the subroof structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020317105212-204272277.jpeg)
You can see how the final roof panels extend beyond the subroof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020317105212-204452416.jpeg)
I added a ridge cap using the same Canson pastel paper as the roofing strips.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020317105212-20446354.jpeg)
The roof sits nicely in place and will allow me to access the interior to at least add lighting to the restaurant.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020317105212-20447409.jpeg)
That's it for now.
Cheers
Roger,
The structure really looks great. Thank for sharing the build.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. And you too Gregory.
I'm debating if I need to paint the roof or just weather it as is. Mr. Frary's 303 Tips book suggests painting them Reefer gray with a little green to simulate slate. The flat roof to the right will just be rolled roofing.
I haven't updated this in two weeks? Where did the time go? I have made a little progress.
First I painted the new roof. I used a mix of 20 drops Americana Slate Grey and 4 drops FolkArt Forest Moss. The ratio is a approximate as these paints are rather thick and didn't "drop" very evenly. I then thinned the mix with an equal part of extender. After that dried I applied a wash of George's light india ink wash. I may go back and hit it with another wash before I apply the final weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317222206-206291644.jpeg)
And here we are with the roof in place. It still needs beam ends added. This will remain removable so that I can access the interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317222206-20743150.jpeg)
I also finally sat down and added the red drop shadow to the main sign. This is getting to be a little easier each time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317222206-20744833.jpeg)
That's all for now.
Cheers.
I wandered back into the work room and realized that I had done a few more things so here is a bonus update.
I painted the sidewalk with some PollyScale Aged Concrete. The sidewalk is carved into the balsa wood base and looked pretty good until I painted it. Amazing how a coat of paint will show every flaw. I'm going to have to rethink it as the grain shows far too much.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317225301-20745373.jpeg)
Moving on to the restaurant, the waitress quit saying that this neighborhood was far too rough for her to be walking to and from on her own. So we hired a new waiter named Manuel. Apparently he's from Barcelona.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317225301-20746278.jpeg)
The hotel now has a checkin desk and a place for mail and keys. I'm not sure where the hotel manager is right now. Probably skulking in the office listening to some manner of racket. The mail cubby is a photograph printed really small and glued to the wall behind the desk. Looks good enough. I'd never be able to carve real keys anyway.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317225301-20747381.jpeg)
And the pool table is almost finished. I just need to locate a tiny tiny amount of several bright colors to paint the balls. This is a metal casting I purchased second hand. I'm not sure who made it. There are a couple of players that still need paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-150317225301-207482243.jpeg)
Ok, that's really it for tonight.
Cheers.
I think it's from B&B Custom Trains, there's one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-SCALE-Pool-Table-bb004193-/131900938085 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-SCALE-Pool-Table-bb004193-/131900938085)
Hi Jan:
It's coming along quite nicely. Love the pool table.
Karl
Roger,
This is coming along really well. Your red shadowing on the letters looks great! I love all the interior details.
I find that Masonite makes a good concrete surface. It is easy to mark seams using a straight edge and a hobby knife. It is also easy to scratch in cracks and uneven spots.
Great details Roger..... 8)
I really like the interiors. The tablecloths work well. Is the waiter a Preiser?
If you could use more pool tables, I've designed a Billiards table as well as Pool table for 3D printing. I'd be interested in opinions.
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/WildeRR
Thanks everyone. I've not had any modeling time since the last update but I'm hoping to this weekend. My biggest issue with the sidewalk is that its integral to the building base which allows the building to be lifted off. I think i'm going to try using a thin layer of plaster or drywall mud over the sidewalk to fill in the wood. I think that will work.
This is the waiter. I picked up a pair at a local show a couple months back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-230317110308-207492128.jpeg)
I don't know that I'll need another pool table any time soon but yours look nice. They have a more modern feel. I need to do some dry brushing to bring out the leather pocket detail on the one I used.
Cheers.
Hahaha, Manuel is the waiter from Fawlty Towers , a British comedy series with John Cleese, Manuel is sadly not with us anymore.
Yup, that's where I was going... I've not touched the build in a while now. I let myself get distracted by trying to fit something similar to the FSM in a 12' x 13' bedroom. I may actually be on to something. At lest some modules that I could incorporate into something larger later on. I'm also already thinking about the next 4 builds. One will be a stone station.
Hope to update this build soon.
Cheers
Well I managed to get distracted off on another project and let this one languish. I also needed to come up with a solution to a small problem. That being, the floor/base warped. Since every good building needs a good foundation I finally got around to picking up some nice 3/4"(ish) plywood to flatten things out. Hopefully this won't warp. You can see below how much curve had developed in the basswood/balsa wood base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-210417155146.jpeg)
After a day or two in the clamps I'll be able to get back to this one. Assuming I'm not still neck deep in tiny cut stone blocks. (But that's for another thread).
Cheers!
Quote from: waltp on March 22, 2017, 11:29:17 PM
I really like the interiors. The tablecloths work well. Is the waiter a Preiser?
If you could use more pool tables, I've designed a Billiards table as well as Pool table for 3D printing. I'd be interested in opinions.
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/WildeRR
I did some on the laser a few days ago in both HO and N scale let me know what you think. Just a fast test cut with no clean up.
rich
Quote from: Janbouli on March 16, 2017, 06:00:03 AM
I think it's from B&B Custom Trains, there's one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-SCALE-Pool-Table-bb004193-/131900938085 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-SCALE-Pool-Table-bb004193-/131900938085)
Could be as the ones from SS Ltd look different - http://scale-structures.com/search.php?search_query=pool&x=10&y=9 (http://scale-structures.com/search.php?search_query=pool&x=10&y=9)
The pool table I have does look that that B&B casting but mine came with some players.
Rich - I like the N-Scale table. It looks pretty convincing. How are you planning to finish out the HO table? It looks good so far. How will you to balls or a rack?
The floor for the building is all nice and square now, which of course has pointed out a flaw in the squareness of the building. Nothing a little sanding and filing can fix. Pictures when its worth looking at.
Cheers!
Today's theme - Fewer words, more pictures.
I framed out the counter and dividing wall for the news stand. The owners access it though the door leading outside to the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270417085904-214361456.jpeg)
The news stand is inset from the front edge of the building to help keep the papers dry. The space to the right will be for the shoeshine stand.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270417085904-214411722.jpeg)
Here's how things look with the large sign in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270417085904-214422171.jpeg)
I added full length rafters to the ends of the roof to help cover the gap between the roof and walls. The roof will remain removable to access lighting elements.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270417085904-214432107.jpeg)
I also added rafter ends along the sides of the roof. These will be painted with the darker green color. The new black triangles at the end were added as the roof had decided to spread a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270417085904-214442088.jpeg)
That it for now. Cheers!
Wow beautifully built! I love it!
Thanks Todd.
A few more updates today.
I applied some spackle to the sidewalk to fill the voids in the wood. Hopefully this will look more like paving and less like balsa wood once its repainted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-030517112118-216631405.jpeg)
The newsstand has been painted. I realize now that I'm going to need an upper wall portion and lots of magazines and papers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-030517112118-21690339.jpeg)
The end rafters got a coat of trim paint and I made a roof for the shed portion. It is thin basswood with some reinforcement on the underside to prevent warping. This will receive roofing paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-030517112118-21691797.jpeg)
That's it for this build for now. Cheers.
Bet you thought I had forgotten about this build... Nope. Just distracted by the stone station. But as I ran into an issue with it I decided to take a break from stone work and do some carpentry. So built a little staircase.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270617163754-234231112.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270617163754-234241254.jpeg)
I decided to try out a set of laser cut stairs from Rusty stumps. (Mostly because I didn't feel like hand cutting stringers.) They are pretty nice. The platforms and railings are all scratch built. I stained it with some Doctor Ben's aged driftwood stain. It has not yet been weathered with the ink wash.
The upper stairs are attached to the walls and the lower stairs will be mounted to the base. This will allow the upper stairs to lift off with the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270617163754-234251319.jpeg)
Cheers!
I needed a break from sanding plaster window openings on my station build so I decided to put some work into this one again. The next bing thing that needs to be done is the news stand. A news stand needs magazines and news papers. I decided to make my own.
I pulled thumbnails from a google search for magazine covers from 1940. After some experimenting I finally found that printing on photo paper gave me identifiable, if not readable, magazine covers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020418173950-30887513.jpeg)
Here are a few cut out samples. That is a US quarter
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020418173950-30889714.jpeg)
For newspapers I grabbed thumbnails also from 1940 and printed on mat photo paper. You can actually read a few headlines. I cut out a large supply of newspapers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-020418173950-30888246.jpeg)
Some of these will be folded to form stacks on the newsstand and some will be "distributed" as liter.
Cheers.
Nice build, that there is some mighty tiny reading material. ;D
I spent a bit of time yesterday folding and stacking newspapers for the newsstand. I'm pleased with how they turned out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-040418100315-30947974.jpeg)
Cheers
Quote from: Random on April 04, 2018, 10:06:00 AM
I spent a bit of time yesterday folding and stacking newspapers for the newsstand. I'm please with how they turned out.
Cheers
Wow - those newspapers look great. Really nice job.
Quote from: vinceg on April 04, 2018, 10:54:25 AM
Quote from: Random on April 04, 2018, 10:06:00 AM
I spent a bit of time yesterday folding and stacking newspapers for the newsstand. I'm please with how they turned out.
Cheers
Wow - those newspapers look great. Really nice job.
What Vince said!
What they both said. 8)
Jeff
Great modeling!
Those papers are really cool.
Thanx
Bob
What all of them said !!!
You have an eye for the small details, those newspapers look great, I'da been all thumbs trying to fold them. ;D
Thanks.
I used the end of a small ruler to fold the newspapers. Wasn't too bad as they are single sheet so there is only one fold.
I did a bit more work with the magazines and the news stand.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-070418230727-30991376.jpeg)
I also added a cash register and placed the front wall of the stand into the building base. I still need to add a back wall with merch and a clerk. I also realized that I managed to make the counter a bit too tall. I am considering adding a raised area in front of the counter to adjust for that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-070418230728-30993370.jpeg)
I also attached the main sign to the front of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-070418230728-309942077.jpeg)
The pool table has also been installed in the restaurant area. Its a bit hard to see and is to the left of the main dining area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-070418230728-309952356.jpeg)
I need to add window glazing. I'm thinking of using slide cover glass for the big windows so that you can see the dining room interior. I also need to add roof details, finish out the signage, and do something about the shoe shine area.
Its coming along.
Cheers.
Perfect Roger.....looks just like the news stands I saw in Manhattan when I was a kid. 8)
Excellent detail.
Roger,
Beautiful work sir. Well done all the way.
Tom ;D
Roger, that news stand is a delightful mini-scene -- very creative. The whole establishment works very nicely.
Vince
Nailed it on the News Stand, perfect. ;)
Roger, just went through the entire posting. You've done a fantastic job. Everything looks great.
If I may, I'd like to offer one suggestion, beer bottles, or coke bottles on the tables. I bought about 1000 of them from Shapeways. Since they are clear, you can paint a clear paint on them and they look like they have liquid in them. https://www.shapeways.com/product/R4YE2WLNZ/ho-bottles-and-crates-10ea?optionId=61889914 is one he still makes but with crates. If I remember, Shapeways put the price up so high on the 1000 lot since I bought them, that he took that down. But I found these ones also: https://www.shapeways.com/product/LAVCDUM2X/beer-bottle-1-87?optionId=60468960&li=marketplace
Really enjoyed seeing what you have done, especially the tables and chairs.
Somewhere in my parts I have a set of dishes. I was thinking coffee cups.
As this was apparently glazing week (see my stone station build) I started on this building as well. I wanted the picture windows for the restaurant to be clear so no canopy-glue-wavy-glass here. I used microscope slide glass to make the large windows. I scored the slides with an old xacto blade and then snapped them over a large metal pin.
The manager needs to get someone to clean the smudges off the windows so that passers by can have a nice view of the facilities.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-180418184858-31281845.jpeg)
Cheers.
Quote from: Random on April 18, 2018, 06:57:10 PM
Somewhere in my parts I have a set of dishes. I was thinking coffee cups.
As this was apparently glazing week (see my stone station build) I started on this building as well. I wanted the picture windows for the restaurant to be clear so no canopy-glue-wavy-glass here. I used microscope slide glass to make the large windows. I scored the slides with an old xacto blade and then snapped them over a large metal pin.
The manager needs to get someone to clean the smudges off the windows so that passers by can have a nice view of the facilities.
Cheers.
Fantastic scene, Roger. Love the pool table. What did you use for billiard balls - maybe round cake sprinkles or something like that?
Vince
Hi Random:
Nice interior. Especially the pool table.
Karl
The balls are part of the casting. I purchased it along with some very 1800s looking figures second hand so I don't know who made it. I believe there are still similar castings available. I've seen them with the balls racked and in play, as with this one.
Thanks
The pool table could have been from SS LTD. Nowadays one can only get the pool hall interior - http://scale-structures.com/brands/SS-LTD-Detail-Parts.html?page=9&sort=featured. But then there are purveyors of scale pool tables a lot cheaper,
Roger
Fantastic modeling. I love all the detail.
Some roof details and a little weathering on the sign and things are starting to come together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270418233141-313891621.jpeg)
A bit more weathering and I added some window glass. Two window frames have been trimmed to model the windows open. The one to the right needs the window frame painted in at the bottom of the glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-270418233141-31407314.jpeg)
I need to add window shades and curtains to finish off the windows. I also still need to build a shoe shine stand and add a few signs.
Cheers.
Every time I see those signs I'm thinking they couldn't have been done better.
Quote from: Random on April 27, 2018, 11:37:11 PM
Some roof details and a little weathering on the sign and things are starting to come together.
A bit more weathering and I added some window glass. Two window frames have been trimmed to model the windows open. The one to the right needs the window frame painted in at the bottom of the glass.
I need to add window shades and curtains to finish off the windows. I also still need to build a shoe shine stand and add a few signs.
Cheers.
Love the building, Roger. A very credible structure. Still amazed by the news stand. Some sidewalk clutter might be fun....maybe a fire plug or a telephone booth or something?
Really nicely done. The signs are great.
Very nice detailing.
Window shades, check. These are made from pastel paper glued across the opening to the back of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-280418174956-31414955.jpeg)
Thanks. The sidewalk won't get details until the building it planted in a scene so that it blends.
Cheers.
Hey! I bet you thought I forgot about this build. I had a small amount of time this evening and decided to add the awnings.
I used some striped scrapbooking paper which I picked up from Michaels, Hobby Lobby, my local scrap booking shop...one of those. I have a stack of striped paper from all sources. It is acid free and shouldn't yellow over time.
The awnings are simple rectangles of paper cut to size with a 2mm folded drop. I used some fine brass wire and made a U shaped support for the lower edge. I glued the wire U to the underside of the awning behind the fold with canopy glue. I then added a small bead of canopy glue along the top edge of the awning paper and glued it up under the sign against the top of the window framing. I made sure the awning was securely against the building with some tweezers and loosely positioned the metal wire ends against the front of the building. Once the canopy glue had grabbed securely I positioned the ends of the wire, starting with the two center pieces and using a toothpick added a small drop of ACC to attach them to the front of the building. After that set I repeated the process with each side. Attempting to move though these steps too quickly will result in non-school-safe words. Trust me. :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-220918212200-33845547.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/622-220918212201-34026521.jpeg)
I still need to add some signs and build the shoeshine bench for the open area between the grill and the newsstand.
That's it for now.
Cheers.
Hi Random,
ths is a really neat structure. I especially like you newspaper stand and its content.
Very nice building and awning.
Since I have the signs out for the diner it made sense to turn my attention back to Leroy's this evening.
I made the black and white sings in Apple Pages and printed them on matte photo paper. I thinned them by slitting the edge with an X-acto knife and pealing the layers apart. With the photo paper this is not hard to do.
The resulting thin sign was coated on the back with thinned canopy clue and positioned on the wall. I then added more thinned canopy glue to the surface and used a half inch wide, stiff, flat, china bristle brush to work the signs into the siding. I used the same method for the advertising signs on the right end wall.
The signs in the windows were applied from behind the glazing. The three signs around the angled entrance door were not thinned.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-300119230912-373471870.jpeg&hash=eef73af7b06dac4e22301eec5fcfafe00ea7b8da)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-300119230912-37348216.jpeg&hash=9f1cc0446193082cc8abc56dd2ea927f3df9f65d)
Cheers.
I almost forgot to add the corner post. This is made from a fancy toothpick.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-300119233830-37349593.jpeg&hash=86199f18e638c1d2d0c0f12ac45609fd606e7c34)
Cheers!
Your signs are fantastic , and the splitting of the photo paper is definitely something I'm going to try.
The fancy toothpick is brilliant, Roger. Looks great.
The signage is beautiful. In fact the whole building is. Very nicely done.
Awesome model! Looks like there's a blue ribbon in your future....
Nice, very nice! Beautiful work! I am concerned though, on how that chimney on the low roof area, is going to draw well. :D
Dave
Seattle
Great job Roger.....beautiful building. 8)
Roger...
Great structure.
Just cool
thanx
Bob
It's taken awhile but you've done an excellent rendition.
I love the signage and details. Wonderful work
--Rich
Roger, a really gorgeous building with tons of character (and lots of ingenious details). Great job.
--George
Thank you everyone for your comments. This build has taken far too long, primarily because of lack of focus. I've allowed other projects to pull me away and this structure has spend a lot of time on the shelf. But with that said, its time for the final push.
That big blank back wall just screamed for a large painted sign. Uneeda Biscuit signs seemed to have been everywhere so that was my choice.
I used my regular printed sign method. For a large sign it is important to pull the layers apart carefully around all of the edges before moving to the middle or unfortunate results can occur (I tore a couple of large sign prints to learn this lesson).
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113801-379711997.jpeg&hash=5b559567b6d20bdadc7fb32ae26792a46f2b1565)
Once the paper is split all the way around the middle separates easily.
The sign was applied with thinned canopy glue and a stiff brush was used to work it into the wall's texture.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113801-3797493.jpeg&hash=913610abe672608d42e6296c5867c863bb2a9c33)
I needed a shoe shine bench for the space next to the newsstand.
I built up a platform from stripwood and attached a casting of an old leather chair. I'm sure the owner found this chair tossed out by the road by someone who failed to see its value.
The foot rests were made from another small block of stripwood and two tiny brass brads. I filed the heads of the brads to make a narrow angled surface.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113801-379751973.jpeg&hash=1c83fa0f5e07bc5dedfdb8cd27ba5dd94da343cb)
The newsstand suffered from too much open space above the counter so I made an upper frame from which I hung more magazines. The initial board did not extend low enough so I had to add and extension (not yet painted in this picture).
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113802-37976173.jpeg&hash=cd401adee6677b23e5b7a9aa10b38f4078d8b7f9)
For the roof hatch I went to my scrap box and found the hatch from an ice reefer.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113802-379771909.jpeg&hash=76ab7a0435a6b246d187bf341dd6ac45e8a95753)
I went into my bins of cutoffs and found small "sticks" to prop up the open windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113926-37978572.jpeg&hash=853b0945f1247d5d094b34a200ee2480db0be848)
And with that the build is complete.
And now, after all this time, lets have a grand tour.
The building is made to open up so that I have the ability to add lighting in the future. I might also add a few more details and figures to the dining room and around the pool table.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113926-379791141.jpeg&hash=7f58f136602cf8aedbea484621255118f8719e89)
Lets start the tour at the office entrance end. I'm sure those upper windows are never opened so that smoke from the chimney doesn't enter the hotel. (Architects... ;) )
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113927-379802239.jpeg&hash=ed34d5adcc23b59fed4d4915b4f998de9462e96d)
Moving to the back wall we have the large advertising sign. This wall is intended to face the tracks, thus the lack of windows. (No rail-fan special rooms here.) The owner would probably love to sell some more ad space.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113927-379812033.jpeg&hash=3a72f7fe3000645cd927617fb670f371e07e35c4)
Coming around to the far end we have the outside stairs to the upper floors. Wonderful for exiting in an emergency, I suspect more than one guest has slipped out this way to avoid the front desk.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219113927-379821057.jpeg&hash=58f99d6fc4b99000f944be3b4042900d1e411f78)
And now we move to the front. I added a few details on the sidewalk and a gentleman working the newsstand. I also treated the awnings to an ink wash to take the newness away and add a touch of wrinkle.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219114016-379832265.jpeg&hash=334924253e1451cc427d71d84c00a6baa6504058)
Finally a closeup view of the newsstand and shoeshine stand.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F622-230219114016-379842018.jpeg&hash=2182e2f3e78a988dc123c4e9d92ade5367142af6)
That's it for this build. Hopefully Leroy's will find its way onto a layout soon. The build was inspired by the original structure on George Sellios' FSM layout. I used photos posted on this forum as reference.
My thanks to George Sellios for his inspiration and those who posted the photos.
Cheers!
Absolutely loving all the details Roger. Great work! everything about this makes it a really nice build.
Such a fine piece for your layout Roger, excellent modeling.
The shoe shine station is very creative, Roger. Great looking diorama.
A real masterpiece. Love the details and the interior.
Jeff
Excellent Rodger. I love the details.
Very nicely done.
Roger, that is a grand structure with so many wonderful details to engage the viewer. I have really enjoyed following this thread and take away lots of tips and inspiration. Thank you!
--Opa George
Roger,
WOW!!!!! Such a wonderful structure with so many great details. If I had to choose I think I would pick the news stand is my favorite.
Roger...
Very cool
The stick holding open the window is a very nice touch. A great reward for a persistent observer.
Thanx......... What's your next project? ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Thank's everyone.
The next build will probably be related to finishing off the station scene in my Two cities layout diorama build. I'll most likely start breaking out the structure builds and updating that thread only as they are added. We'll see.
Cheers!