Hi Folks,
It has been a while since I starting something new... er not quite new. I have a lot of stuff in the works, but have been getting a lot of pressure to release Seabiscuits in HO. It will be a fairly detailed adventure and I thought I might share a bit of the development and detailing we intend to provide.
Hope you enjoy it. Also this should be therapy for me to get this done!!
Cheers!
Darryl
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216034032.jpeg)
The N Scale version of Seabiscuits Boatworks started out in 2013 as a design out of my head with no real prototype in mind, but typical of something you might see for a small boat builder. A number of customers turned this into a restaurant with a large patio / bar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216034722.jpeg)
The N scale version was designed out of Resin Board for the most part and has a lot of parts to assemble. Overall I think the kit came out well and was well received by the N Scale community for a number of years since its release in 2013.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216034755.jpeg)
In 2014 I took on a aerospace day job on the west coast that has consumed my life for the past 3 years. Joanna (my wife and laser slave) has pretty much been running the laser cutting business since then and doing a great job I think anyways... Anyways, I finally got a chance to come up for air and I always wanted to do a larger more detailed version (including some 3D printed parts) so I finally got a chance to focus and do some redesign and "git er dun!!"
Cheers!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216040112.jpeg)
Darryl,
That's a great looking structure. I'm sure it'll do well in HO.
John
I have this one in N-scale , still have to build it, it should look good in H0, might have to get that too.
Hi Darryl:
Kit looks great. Beautiful job on it. Also was looking at your paint rack. I've never heard of Cacde Color. Lots of neat colors. where do you get it?
Thanks:
KaRL
Darryl,
I really like the look of the kit. Great job.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on December 13, 2016, 07:49:25 AM
Hi Darryl:
Kit looks great. Beautiful job on it. Also was looking at your paint rack. I've never heard of Cacde Color. Lots of neat colors. where do you get it?
Thanks:
KaRL
Hi Karl,
Actually the label says "GAME COLOR" in about the worst font to read possible. These are a line of paints produced by Vallejo that are for the fantasy figure painters. The colors in that line are a bit more vibrant than some of their other lines like "Model Color" and "Train Color". I have been moving towards Vallejo and others like MIG for much of my model railroad models as I really like the quality of the paints. They have soo many colors too.
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/72-colors-_-3-brushes/family/18/87
Most hobby shops and online guys carry these. Hobbylinc has a pretty good selection.
Well, the walls scaled to HO fairly well. With some adjustments for material changes and thickness, everything dry fits well.
Some of the walls are wider than the wall so the need to be butt glued. I will adjust the position for cutting so that the battens will line up better at the glue joints.
Walls are painted a mid green with two lighter green highlights dry brushed on. Hit the walls with steel wool before and between coats to de-fuzz.
<<SORRY ABOUT THE COLOR CORRECTION IN THE PHOTOS, SOME PHOTOS TURNED OUT MORE GREEN THAN ACTUAL>>
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143107-18647854.jpeg)
I painted the window frames white and laid them over the opening centered to allow for scribing where to remove the battens. A bit tedious, but worth the effect after gluing the frame in place flush with the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143110-186792192.jpeg)
I added more detail to the interior walls which provide much more interest and braces the walls as a bonus. the office section on the left is painted and laminated to the basswood wall. You can see I had to make some adjustments for the supports and the lower beam was to add more interest and make use of the visible bracing to add some realism to the interior of the structure that might be seen when modeling with the doors open.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143113-18680773.jpeg)
Whitewashed the supports by a "moist" Drybrushing of the raised bits. Then a coat of Ink/Alcohol to age the wood. After that, I went back and cut some groove lines part way into the basswood to represent plywood that was added to support the rot as this part of the building apparently got wet quite a bit from disrepair (actually just playing with some weathering techniques)...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143115-186811534.jpeg)
Carrying on...
Further staining and wet effects to look like bad or windows left open. Makes sense as the nasty chemicals used when painting and finishing boats needed ventilation!! The rot in the bottom of the plywood walls was "Slimy Grime" by Vallejo. Really liking their washes which wick into the basswood very well. Takes some practice, but I will be working this effect more and more in my future building and weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143117-18682903.jpeg)
An inner window frame, glazing and some drawings pinned to the wall and some scribed boards complete the interior office wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143308-18686583.jpeg)
One thing I also did to represent some water erosion/rot at the bottom of the siding is to use a small wire brush and run in the direction of the grain to provided a bit of grain definition in the bottom of the wall in a few areas. This removes some of the paint to allow for the next step in weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143302-186831094.jpeg)
Next I used a light grey alcohol wash to darken up the rot and show it as still wet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143305-186841489.jpeg)
Last step was use some Vallejo "Streaking Grime" to wick and lightly brush it up from the base of the wall. It added several dimension of color and texture to the less than perfect walls. The wall colors could have been a bit more faded, but I am happy with the overall effect. I will lighten everything with some chalks when the building is completed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216143307-186852030.jpeg)
Hi Darryl:
Got you message on the paint. Thanks much.
Karl
Darryl
I will be watching with great interest.
Really like your wall treatment...more techniques for us to try. Thanks! 👍🏻
Thanks Dave, I am always wanting to try something new.
Thanks everyone for looking in, will keep the momentum moving. Unlike Speedy Von Karl, it took me several days to get to this point of getting the walls done. I am sure Karl would have gotten this far during breakfast on the first day of building the kit...
I managed to finish up the walls in much the same fashion as shown above. It takes (at least for me) a lot of focus in figuring out which battens need to be trimmed away for the window frames. as you can see in the upstairs windows I trimmed one too many between windows 4 and 5 from the left side. I will touch that up later.
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216202556-187061843.jpeg)
I 3D engraved the stonework for the boat overhaul bay. I found some fuel and oil stain effects from Vallejo that do a nice job of some fuel leaks and oil spills on the stonework below the aft end of the boat area that will sit in the bay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216202559-187071480.jpeg)
Some signage for the side of the building where the outsides stores will reside. As a note, I remembered to use a corresponding color felt pen along the cut edge of paper signs to darken the edge to get rid of the white line of the cut paper edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216202601-187081126.jpeg)
Detailing the office walls with some details such as book shelves and filing cabinets. These mini-kits will be included as part of the building kit. Hopefully the posters above the door do not offend. It was my wife that reminded me to put some in as she and I used to work at the same aviation hangar together and the establishment was predominately male employees. Typical shop artwork!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-131216202603-187091783.jpeg)
Hi Darryl,
This is cool. I like your wall weathering techniques...
Really nice work! Thank you for posting your build and sharing your techniques. I need to get some of that Vallejo weathering effects paint.
i might have missed this, but when will it be released in HO
Working on a large waterfront now
What will price point be??
Very nice Darryl..... 8)
Darryl,
Ditto to the other comments. Your technique for weather beaten walls is a wonderful idea. I'll be giving it a try myself. Thanks for sharing.
Tom ;D
Thanks for all the great comments team. I have really been having fun weathering this one, though trying not to make it look run down too much and still like someone has tried to care for it over the years.
Robert, the kit will come out in a month or two I suspect (though I have been known to take longer than that sometimes!). I am still working on the price point, but fortunately for all you guys south of our border, we work on Canadian Pesos so you get the advantage of that 30% premium on our listed prices in Canadian dollars!<<shameless plug>>
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 14, 2016, 04:23:59 PM
Thanks for all the great comments team. I have really been having fun weathering this one, though trying not to make it look run down too much and still like someone has tried to care for it over the years.
Robert, the kit will come out in a month or two I suspect (though I have been known to take longer than that sometimes!). I am still working on the price point, but fortunately for all you guys south of our border, we work on Canadian Pesos so you get the advantage of that 30% premium on our listed prices in Canadian dollars!<<shameless plug>>
Darryl
Make sure you let us all know here on the forum when it's available.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 14, 2016, 07:47:32 PM
Make sure you let us all know here on the forum when it's available.
Will Do John. I will post it in the new kit section when ready. I posted this thread here to keep a conversation on developing the new kit and share some techniques and experiments, etc.
Onto the Dock and floor of the building.
I designed the dock from 3 sheets of basswood that are tack glued together. Tack glued only from the back because I did not want any glue on the surface for staining purposes later in the construction.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-141216192204-18713668.jpeg)
I stained the rafter and braces in driftwood stain. I will go back and darken and highlight after assembly. The planks are all precut and makes for easy brush on staining I think anyways. Some of the parts pop out of the sprue after the stain dries so good to keep things isolated and sorted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-141216192207-187141388.jpeg)
the 4X12 rafters are glued to the back and then The 12 X 12 runners stiffen everything up. I will provide some guides to simplify the alignment for gluing the rafters in place. Staining the Top of the deck can then commence with out warping everything. I like to put several dryer coats for staining the deck and selectively darkening some strips to get the variance in the sheet wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-141216192213-187161247.jpeg)
Dock Board Detailing:
I used a fresh #11 blade to lightly saw into the surface of some of the plank ends and shave out some of the deckwood. this helps create an uneven surface with out having to do individual plank on plank construction. Not sure if I will pre-scribe the plank ends or let the builder do that as it creates more of a random personalized appearance to the dock. Long planks or short etc.. I try to engrave deep enough so that you could even go back and deepen the groove and pull out a few planks and replace them or create rot etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-141216192404-18717462.jpeg)
For scribing the plank ends, I use a blade and pull a little more than half way across the board. Then turn the dock around and pull from the other edge of the board directly torwards the center of the cut that was made the other way.
Also going back over the dock and selectively hitting with AI solution at some of the plank ends really enhances the effect of individual planks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-141216192406-187181182.jpeg)
a bit of care and patients gives a pretty credible finished planked dock. I did mess up in some of the plank cut alignment as the ends should end overtop of a rafter. I figured this out just after I starting hand scribing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-141216192409-187191996.jpeg)
So, Laser cut plank end scribes or let the builder decide where to put the plank ends? Comments?
Looks really great Darryl. :) 8)
I might try that kit in N scale. However all my water front areas are fully occupied. I might have some room for a land kit by cutting down the pilings. Have you upgraded the original N scale kit at all since its inception in 2013?
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Hi Bob, you can download the instructions for the N-Scale Seabiscuits from our website if you want to see what you would need to do to fit things for your surroundings. A number of modelers have used this kit for other things like a golf course clubhouse/restaurant, a land based facility with an extended loading / work deck.
D
Worked out the sequence for assembly of the building after a couple of dry fit trials. I find it helps builders in providing a somewhat logical sequence to assemble the building especially when there are a number of cross frames etc and wanting to keep the interior exposed for detailing with bracing etc in logical locations to represent real structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216143220-18754284.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216143444-18768374.jpeg)
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Now for some fun stuff! Adding some exterior and interior details.
These are some of the 3D printed details that we will be supplying in the kit. I had to work out this packaging method to protect the delicate, tiny contents.
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Painting the door knobs and plate a brass color. will have to tarnish them later...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216143454-187722276.jpeg)
Pretty convincing?? I could even supply a tiny key to fit the key hole if you like!!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216143638-187731967.jpeg)
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 17, 2016, 02:21:51 PM
Hi Bob, you can download the instructions for the N-Scale Seabiscuits from our website if you want to see what you would need to do to fit things for your surroundings. A number of modelers have used this kit for other things like a golf course clubhouse/restaurant, a land based facility with an extended loading / work deck.
D
Thanks Darryl. I already looked at the 19 pages of instructions. I could probably fit the kit on my layout. Will probably order it after the holidays when mailing it won't be an issue.
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Some interior work benches, another mini kit.
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some scrap bits added before weathering.
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working on a master for a resin cast tool board. the saggy area was from a flaw in the printing process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216151410-1877616.jpeg)
Some more details that will be included. 3D printed fluid cans and small boxed part stacks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216160244-18779952.jpeg)
a few pieces of tissue glued and added to the bench for paint rags. I should have coated the tissue with matt medium first so that the paint stains would not run as much as they did. They wicked a bit too much.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216160246-187801945.jpeg)
Note the wall regulator clock kit that will be included as well. Another mistake in assembly sequencing was that I put the rafters in before completely detailing the interior. It is easy to get ahead of oneself when you are excited to see what everything looks like finished.
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Just checking how the balance of the interior looks.
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Amazing detail Darryl, I want one in H0 then I can do another duo build in N and H0.
i hope those details will be available separately, they would be great for my roundhouse (when i can get back to modeling...)
dave
Thanks Jan, the details are lots of fun. Really should be sprayed instead of hand painted as it can cover a lot of the detail. I will let you know as soon as it is out.
Dave, definitely will be kitting these details up separately as well.
Continuing along...
I had Tim at Ngineering work up a combination light and effects board for this kit. It will include a flickering light for the pot belly stove and a puffer light for a cigar/pipe smoker on the dock. The board also will power the rest of the lights for the interior / exterior. Ngineering has a lot of great lighting effects and now has added sound effects. Something that has long time been needed in the industry.
Drilling some holes to feed LED wires.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216173624-18786503.jpeg)
Flicker light installed in the stove.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216173625-187872405.jpeg)
Though we won't be including the figure, here is how to modify one to hold a light. Drilled a hole from his mouth through the back of his head. Then cut a groove down the back and the inside of one leg. This is easy to route the wired orange LED down and then coating with glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216173627-187882470.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216173629-187891503.jpeg)
The Nano LED is a little large for scale, but I think it will look good just the same as a pipe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216173833-187901081.jpeg)
Carrying on with the lean to shed and outside storage cage.
Bit of light sanding, staining and gluing the shed supports and precut roof timbers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216175549-18791618.jpeg)
A chain link cage from some 0.015 styrene bent and glued to shape. Painted Tull and glued to the styrene frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216175552-187921337.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216175554-187931477.jpeg)
Then added some boxes and barrels. The boxes are cut and folded out of paper with printed graphics.
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216175559-18795387.jpeg)
This next part is optional, but I thought I would try the technique as I have always wanted to do it.
I chose to do some corrugated roofing over the shed and wanted it to look derelict even though it may not properly match the better looked after building. As I said, this is an exercise in testing some new techniques.
To age and rust out the metal roofing, I obtained some Ferric Oxide used for etching copper circuit boards. It is powerful stuff so work in a well ventilated area, use gloves, and eye protection and generally be really careful with this stuff. If you leave the aluminum in too long it will just vaporize in a puff of orange smoke.
Cut the roofing strips into panel sizes. I dip it in the solution and wait for it to fizz and start to bubble. Then remove and plunge into water to stop the process.
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216175753-18798658.jpeg)
Painted with some rust pigments and Vallejo Rust Effects. Overall works fairly well, though not entirely happy with the colors. After painting each panel, I glued them to the rafters and added a strip of adhesive foil tape along the top edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-171216175756-187991006.jpeg)
A great tutorial on aging metal roofing can be found here. Luke has some really great videos on his site:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d371ubNKwto
"I APPROVE OF THIS BUILD!"
Our customer complaint department manager and Quality Director Peanut approves of this model stuff, though his constant need for meetings and pets slows the process significantly.
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Darryl........
Maybe I'm the last on the planet to figure this out but.....
In one photo on a previous page I can see only part of a paint bottle that looks like a Vallejo jar.
It says streaking grime.
Tell me (maybe us) what this stuff is.
Maybe I'm just the father of the groom here and have no idea what is going on.
Oh....... and by the way... a very cool structure.
thanx
Bob
Hi Bob,
Vallejo has are really great line of weathering paints and washes in a variety of colors. I recently got into these but am still experimenting with them. I really like them along with a product line of paints called MIG.
The Streaking grime is one of these selections that is meant to be dabbed on a model and then with a clean soft brush wipe down in the direction that water would flow. it gives the very convincing appearance of grime that has been washing down the side of a structure of vehicle. There are several different tones. You can get these from a lot of plastic model hobby stores or online. As an example:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?str_s=vallejo+weathering
This page gives some idea as to what they have. Scroll down to the bottom of the page for appropriate stuff for us model railroaders.
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/weathering-effects/family/34
They have a number of these different effects and washes. I also bought the fuel and oil stain ones as well. the sheen on them when dry are very convincing. especially the fuel stain one that has that slightly oily, but dry appearance vs the oil stains which as much shinier.
Darryl...
Thanx for the info.
I'll have to pursue this stuff.
thanx
Bob
Pilings:
I cut some 1/12" dowels to length for both the dock support and the doubling supports to length. Then I scraped them with a razor saw to deepen the grooves. Next, a couple of coats of IA wash to darken them up. Then a quick sanding to get rid of the fuzz. I then dry brushed on some light gray to hit the highlights. I used a layer of MIG Slimy Green Light and then on the lower part of the post used MIG slimy green Dark to simulate the algae an sea weed that tends to grow on everything at or below the water surface depending on the level of the tide
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-191216024643-188441012.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-191216024646-18845997.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-191216025949-18850747.jpeg)
I then decided on which piles would be in the water and glued them onto the 12/12 beams at an equal spacing defined in the instructions. Actually I worked out what looked good and then set the spacing for the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-191216024648-18846252.jpeg)
Cross bracing takes a lot of concentration to get it right so that you can install all the crosses in each direction properly. Left over right, left over right, left over ....
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-191216024651-18847627.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-191216024653-18848609.jpeg)
The "Slimy Green" wash works very well so will go over the submerged planks afterwards to keep it all level to the water levels.
Great mini tutorial Darryl , the MIG washes seem to do the job very well . I have some Vallejo washes but no slimy green and such colors yet.
Very nicely done Darryl. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Built up some dock cleats out of some 3X10 wood. A small dab of craft adhesive on a pin did the job for the thru bolts/pins. Rust and AI to age. I think I over did it on the rust and should be able to town it down in the final clean up of the model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-211216233723-188842052.jpeg)
Cleats/tiedowns in place on the dock decking. I was going to do up a railing set for wrapping around the dock as I did in the N Scale version, but I think I like how it looks without the safety of railings. This is after all an Evil Empire Build, not those Jedi Rebels...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-211216233725-18910996.jpeg)
I was going to do some LED soldering, but it seems that the soldering and microscope station had been taken over by one of our kit production workers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-211216233727-189119.jpeg)
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 17, 2016, 05:49:08 PM
Thanks Jan, the details are lots of fun. Really should be sprayed instead of hand painted as it can cover a lot of the detail. I will let you know as soon as it is out.
Dave, definitely will be kitting these details up separately as well.
Continuing along...
I had Tim at Ngineering work up a combination light and effects board for this kit. It will include a flickering light for the pot belly stove and a puffer light for a cigar/pipe smoker on the dock. The board also will power the rest of the lights for the interior / exterior. Ngineering has a lot of great lighting effects and now has added sound effects. Something that has long time been needed in the industry.
And if you don't want to pay list price - go to go to www.microlumina.com (http://www.microlumina.com) or shoot me a PM/email if you don't see something listed on the site. Chances are I've got the Ngineering item in stock - including the sounds.
Darryl - I invested in a pair of surgical scopes from this place: https://www.designsforvision.com/ (https://www.designsforvision.com/) . The microscope wasn't working for me because I needed a pair of readers whenever I wasn't looking through the microscope. Using an optivisor over a pair of readers worked better but flipping the 'visor up and down got to be a pain too. I met a guy at a proto show who bought a pair for his modelling/weathering. Said it was one of the best things he ever bought. Not cheap though. Unfortunately, they're priced for people with MD or DDS after their names. I don't have either :-\ .
Seabiscuits is really looking good!
-slim
Sorry Slim, I should have mentioned that you have all that stuff available too at very attractive prices with excellent personal support. Both you and Tim have been very helpful in supporting the best of the best in LED lighting products. This newest board was developed after a lot of back and forth with Tim and is very nice for having 2 effects and some constant lit LED's. Nice and small too.
I have tried a pair of surgical scopes a friend of mine has and find it does not have the depth of field that I want for working close up like this. I really find the microscope with or without glasses works well for me. Especially now that my eyesight has gotten to the point where bifocals required. I paid $299 for the scope and it has been a godsend when working on wiring LED's as well as other things that small. I have even started painting figures under it too.
the Stereo microscope does take some getting use to though. Kind of like going through the whole progressive bifocal thing.
Hope to have this prototype model done by New Years... will see...
I wanted to experiment with some scenery materials as I have not done much in this area for a while. Layered up a base out of foam board. (note, won't do this again for the bottom water layers as it definitely warped when adding the water effect. I should have used gatorboard but did not have any handy. Also marked the locations for the pier posts and building edges and punched holes for the posts using a sharped post.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216171924-190442121.jpeg)
I was going for an old sandstone or ancient reef shoreline. Not really prototypical out west here, but again just playing with techniques. I used some DAS paper clay material which molds quite nicely. Then using a artists spatula and a wire brush started getting the worn layer effect I was looking for.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216171927-19053395.jpeg)
Carved some old steps into the clay and made some small cut stones from Fimo by rolling out a sheet and scribing the material before baking and snap cut them to size. These add some character to the otherwise boring base. There will be a small lookout or fishing pier here later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216171929-19054443.jpeg)
One more hit with a wire brush once everything is dry to get rid of all the little hanging fibre bits from carving the clay. Some greys and umbers to stain the rock area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216171933-190551086.jpeg)
Highlighted the high points with dry brushed shades of grey and light tan. Then hit the tidal areas with MIG light and dark slimy green. I will go back over the dark slimy green with gloss medium once I add some seaweed and some stones etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216171935-190561130.jpeg)
I then painted the water surface with blue green paints in a dabbing motion instead of brush strokes. Here there are 2 coats of gloss mod podge also added in a light dabbing motion with a larger brush so not to get too many bubbles in the modge podge. Many more coats to add yet. I think I will go back and rethink the water color around the rocks to make it look more shallow. The building is set in place and is removable until I get the final scenery done.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216172105-190571998.jpeg)
Looking great Darryl, will be a great kit.
rich
Looks great Darryl. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Lovely job Darryl.
Mike :)
Thanks Much, It is coming along slower than I wanted as we are still fighting off the turkey meat sweats from X-mas!
I continued with the scenery. I tried something a bit different and really like how it came out. I used a water based wood filler (comes in various colors) to simulate a sandy soil. It worked out far better than I ever thought it could. I really like the finish. I just squirted some in a dish, dabbed it on very lightly building up light coats with a cut paintbrush. It is important to keep dabbing until it sets up and the brush creates a very fine, sandy finish. It dries very quickly. The texture that was left was a perfect match for scale sandy soil. I find that most of the available scenery sand and similar product is always too course for my liking in this scale.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216172108-1905896.jpeg)
Lightly sanded the area around were vehicle parked and heavy traffic to smooth the surface.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216172111-190592038.jpeg)
Hit the wood filler with matte medium and some burnt umber paint mixed in and thinned. Then put the first layer of scenery with some buffalo grass. more turf and grass / weeds to add yet at the end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-261216172114-190601672.jpeg)
Managed to finish and add a new detail that will be included in the kit. A Gas Meter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-311216154702-1906734.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-311216154703-19082509.jpeg)
Will be adding a power meter as well with separate globe. Still in the rough shown here. The detail under the globe of the meter it self is probably not going to be seen, but the modeler could add a glob of clear paint I guess...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-311216155353-190832094.jpeg)
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mike
:) :) :) :)
Very cool, Darryl. Great kit and terrific scenery. Great ideas!
Happy New Year. Thanks for this thread and for giving us your time.
Thanks Mike(s)! This has been very fun to date trying out a bunch of new techniques and 3D printing with our printer has been a real push forward in technology!
On to a Seabiscuit Cruiser, 1947 version.
designed and lofted out in CAD.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165930-191002095.jpeg)
Worked out how the carcass goes together to create the frame for the sheeting.Also glued down the top deck after wetting the wood to get it to follow natural curves in the design.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165757-19084692.jpeg)
Sheeting the Hull. All the calculations for the curves worked out perfectly in fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165800-190952422.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165803-190961444.jpeg)
Assembling the Cabin
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165805-19097563.jpeg)
Taa dah!!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165807-190981588.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165935-191032162.jpeg)
Engraved instrument panel as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117165938-191041121.jpeg)
Wow, Darryl, wonder if that were possible in N-scale?
Quote from: Janbouli on January 01, 2017, 06:58:49 PM
Wow, Darryl, wonder if that were possible in N-scale?
Should scale nicely Jan, as the basis of the boat came from the one that is in the N Scale Sea Biscuits. In fact when I scaled up the N version of the hull I found that it was too small for a cruiser so I scaled it 20% bigger to make it about 22Feet long. You can see the comparison in the photo of my first test build at 17 feet.
Will definitely do this up as a separate kit and also in N Scale, but the deck may get done in laserboard or 1/64ply vs Birch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/26-010117201629-19105337.jpeg)
Quote from: Janbouli on January 01, 2017, 06:58:49 PM
Wow, Darryl, wonder if that were possible in N-scale?
...er, if you meant the Gas meter. I will try that, though I might have to make the gas lines a bit more fat.
No I meant the cruiser , and if it's in the N-scale kit , I already have one , have never opened the kit yet because that structure is for a spot on my layout that I am not even close to building yet.
Hi Darryl:
coming along very nicely. I really love the book cases and filing cabinets.
Karl
Wow, Darryl.
We know now who is going to pick up the slack when George retires.
Very cool.
Thanx
Bob
Darryl, I am not sure how wonderful this kit is going to be! The amount of detail and care being put into the kit is so amazing that it just stands out from the crowd. I hope you sell a million of them.
Thanks guys, getting back to this now that a number of other "life" things got in the way.
Just figuring out what the main roofing should be. I am thinking shakes or Rolled roofing as I wanted it to be different than the covered storage area, though have not quite decided. Any suggestions?
Then it will be off to final details like the boat hoist and ramp for the paint room add-on.
Darryl, how about painted steel?
Wow, had to see how long this one has been "Coming Soon"! Well, after 2 years of development, it is finally here!! After 2 moves, 2 job changes, building a new shop and house, and now venturing back full time into kit manufacturing, here it is!!
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F26-281019153830-412691957.jpeg&hash=a963902d454f5733f574fca560ce497985e3fedc)
Taking pre-orders until November 18th as we have a pending show schedule to work with in getting kits out the door on time.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F26-281019153748-411501500.jpeg&hash=cef9308bd2811d89ddd39f2196add861313a06cb)
A number of small details to yet be added to the show model...
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F26-281019153749-412662481.jpeg&hash=668f9ad8faf593d097206704389c27c2a3c57f8a)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F26-281019153750-412671697.jpeg&hash=7de998a03aabd010ab4b3052b4bdcf30f31945ce)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F26-281019153750-41268596.jpeg&hash=4da102f051503219dd667600a4564fc8a52df14a)
Darryl,
Despite what the cat says, I didn't buy the boat works.
I did, however, pre-order the Moonshiner's Cabin. That's probably a little too upscale for just one of the wood hicks cutting the four foot wood for the acid factory on the D&N. Now if I add some bunk beds...perfect!
PM sent by email Darryl
There is no shipping option for the address you entered. Please go back and check the address.Hi Darryl, trying to order kit plus interior but there appears to be a glitch on the order form as it will not add in or calculate shipping costs.Mike
Quote from: madharry on October 29, 2019, 06:37:41 AM
There is no shipping option for the address you entered. Please go back and check the address.Hi Darryl, trying to order kit plus interior but there appears to be a glitch on the order form as it will not add in or calculate shipping costs.Mike
We are on it mike! Must be the Brexit thing!!! Will PM you shortly.
Checked it out, apparently Canada Post was having some sort of problems with their shipping software. Should be working now.
Yes I bought both the cabin and the boatworks. Not that I needed any more kits according to my dearest.
Mike :)
Quote from: madharry on October 29, 2019, 01:35:07 PM
Yes I bought both the cabin and the boatworks. Not that I needed any more kits according to my dearest.
Mike :)
Oh , come on Mike , you always need more kits , what els e will you fill your shelves with ;)
great looking kit Darryl now need to do it in Normal scale :)
rich
Congrats on getting this kit to production. Looks really awesome!
Quote from: rslaserkits on October 29, 2019, 08:04:32 PM
great looking kit Darryl now need to do it in Normal scale :)
rich
He's had it in Normal Scale for a very long time Rich, might be the next kit I am building , have had it a few years now.