As you can tell by the title I will be building a Fos Tower Two Kit that I purchased last week when I was in Sarasota. It's not going to be used as a tower but as my container yard office.
I opened the kit today took all the parts out and grouped them. I also read the directions 2 complete times. So there are 2 things I need to decide:
1. Colors to use. I use acrylic paint that comes in the little bottles at the craft stores. If anyone has suggestions concerning their use, please suggest away. Also the directions said to apply a alcohol and india ink mix (which I have) before painting. Does that seem right? I have always done it the other way around.
2. Any ideas where to get clear acetate sheets for making window glass?
Again, I am open to all suggestions as a newbie. I may not always take them but I will seriously think about them.
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Yes, Curt, pre stain the walls with A&I before painting them. I usually brace the walls, spray the backs with black spray paint so the walls don't warp and the black hides the fact that there is no interior. Stain the fronts with A&I and then paint over it. It gives a weather beaten color to the wood, which if you dry brush or sponge paint the surface, will show through. I got clear acetate at Dick Blick Art Supply.
Jeff
Sound like a cool build. I will be following along.
I use overhead transparency sheets...cheap and a package lasts forever. Might also consider Gallery Glass at your craft store.
Good kit to start with. I built it a few weeks ago for a friend and just got a request for another one, so it's been ordered!
Ditto all that Jeff suggested. Enjoy!
there is no acetate sheet at the bottom of the box? kits usually come with that....
looking forward to your build thread!
Bob makes a good point that I hadn't thought of. I'm sure the acetate is in the box...probably sandwiched between tissue oaper and among your signs and roofing materials. 👍🏻
Hi Curt:
built that when it first came out. It's a great kit. I'll be watching.
Karl
yeah, that is what I was thinking,,,,the acetate sheet (maybe) is just a small piece "hiding" admidst all the other things in the kit!
Curt,
I find craft paints work better if thinned slightly with the blue windshield washer fluid and applied as two or three thin coats. The amount of ww fluid varies depending on the paint brand, I generally start out with 2/3 paint, 1/3 ww fluid, and adjust from there. You can use the cutouts from the windows, etc., to check the coverage after thinning.
Hi Curt:
You should be able to get acetate at your hobby shop if you still have one around. I use Gallery Glass from the craft store. It looks like white glue and dries clear.
Karl
Curt....
I'm an advocate of microscope slides for glass if you aren't doing an interior.
Nothing looks like glass except glass.
Look for a camera supply store that markets microscopes. They come in a box of 100 for about six bux.
You can cut them with a carbide machinists scribe from a home repair big box.
Glue them in with styrene glue or Goo. Do NOT use super glue. Turns the glass blue.
Find a local modeler who has done it and ask questions.
See ya
Bob
Afternoon All,
I want to thank Karl, John, Dave K., Bob C., Bob, Jeff, Jerry, and Tom for your suggestions and well wishes. I'm sorry if I missed anyone. I started out getting the 2 shades of craft paint I will be using, windshield wiper fluid (what I had has some sort of additive in it), and found window material.
The kit came in a heavy duty ziploc bag in which everything fit well. I am beginning to think the kit may of been repackaged. I double checked everything and there was no acetate sheet. Well, that is water under the bridge now.
Today I glued the inside bracing to the walls. Tomorrow I will paint the inside black and after that dries I will put A&I on the outside and probably paint the trim.
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As I haven't been able to figure how to post multiple pictures in the same post (darn Win 10) here is the rest of my previous post.
I found a anomaly when I was gluing the bracing on the large front piece. In the direction sheet it is missing the small upper window so the bracing shown was incorrect (but the small window is in the finished product picture), so I had to slide 1 long brace over and I added another on the edge of the door for strength. Luckily I had some NE scale lumber the correct size for the extra piece.
What I found confusing initially was the instruction sheet shows the bracing from the outside perspective instead of the inside perspective.
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Curt,
You are off to a good start on your first wood structure kit.
I'm sorry I didn't respond to your questions earlier. However, I'd like to make a few "my .02 cents" worth.
Ref. the A&I, just because the instructions call for the A&I to be applied first, doesn't mean it has to. It all depends on the look of the finished paint you are looking for. I've used the A&I before, during and after painting and it all is acceptable. Again, depends on what you are after.
Acetate -
I have this kit and there is no acetate in the kit. I have plenty so don't go out and buy some. It gives you a great reason to come down to Orlando and visit The Atlantic and Southern RR. I'll give you a few sheets of the acetate. When you come to visit, I can show you different types of glass widows in different models.
Glass for glass -
Bob, like most of us here, is an advanced modeler. The actual window glass is great for advanced modelers. It can be a bit daunting on your very first kit. However, it is worth some practice as the result is quite different than Acetate or Gallery Glass windows.
Prior to painting, take a few pieces of scrap wood and see how the acrylic paint and A&I affect the look, both before and after applying paint.
Finally, I know you visited Bill and Kris Cutler's Pennsy layout. Many of the wooden structures on their layout were done by Reading Bob and me. It may be worth a return visit to take a closer look.
Tom ;D
Tom thank you for your kind words. I really don't want the building looking decrepit. The container terminal would be pretty new so I think the office should also. I will definitely test the paint on scrap first. I actually bought some window material this morning while I was out, but I really appreciate the offer and I do want to see you and your layout. I haven't said anything about that since you have been sick.
Tom is correct that you don't have to start with A&I. For a newer building you could certainly skip it. I'd build up the color in layers. Testing on scrap pieces is a great way to try different techniques. To post more pictures, where you add the one picture, there's a line stating (more attachments) just under the box. You can post up to five per post.
Jeff
Question regarding windshield fluid. I heard you should only use windshield fluid designed for summer use, because it does not have an additive in the winter mix that curdles the paint. Is this true, or can I use any bottle of WW fluid?
Ralph,
I use the blue windshield washer fluid and have never had an issue. I only use it for brush painting, have never tried to thin acrylic paint in this way for use in an airbrush. I have used the blue ww fluid with Vallejo acrylics and several brands of craft store acrylics and never had an issue with it. I read somewhere that the yellow/orange winter mix does not work for thinning acrylics, have never tried it. HTH
Hi Curt,
I see you're off to a great start and getting a lot of good advice along the way. I'll add my two cents worth. I apply A&I or Hunterline Stains) first and last when painting the walls. The 'darkness' I use depends on the color I've selected for the walls. The lighter the wall the lighter the A&I. I used to keep different mixes of A&I on my workbench (dark, medium, light). Now I just keep dark mix of A&I plus a bottle of straight A. If I want light I load my brush with the A first and then dip it in the A&I and start applying it to the wall. If it's still too dark I go back to the A, load the brush and then go back over the area I just painted. Mixing as I go so to speak.
For windows I use either the acetate included in the kit or, more often then not, a product from MicroScale Industries call Krystal Klear. It works like the Gallery Glass others have recommended.
I'm looking forward to following along with your adventures! :D
I'll be looking in also Curt.....hope I get to meet you at Tom's. :)
Good Afternoon,
Jerry thanks for your insight on the WW fluid. It seems for once I guessed correctly :o.
Thank you to Jeff, Gregory, Massive Ralph for following and your encouragement. Bob I look forward to meeting you also.
Today I started with painting 2 pieces of scrap on one side with Krylon Dual Superbond Flat Black. After that dried I flipped the pieces over and experimented with the paint
On the 2 smaller pieces the right half's had a diluted A&I applied. After that dried I applied 3 coats of diluted craft paint which entirely covered the A&I. The large piece has a straight 2.5% A&I on the right side and 3 coats of paint. You can't tell in the photo but the big one when viewed closely has a slight darkness. Based on these tests I think I will go with full strength A&I and stop at 2 coats then make a decision about the 3rd coat.
The second picture is after spraying the back sides with the Krylon spray paint. I masked the front with blue painters tape that worked well.
My life is complete ! ! ! !
Ralph has re-appeared.
Welcome to the forum.
see ya
Bob
Off to a good start, Curt. I sent you a PM with what I hope will be useful links.
Dave K.
Curt,
You are welcome to any tips or insight I can offer, I owe the wonderful modelers that I learned from more than I can repay. And, in that vein, if you decide to try to add some drybrushing, I find it much easier if I use a stiff bristle brush. I have an inexpensive set of craft store stencil brushes, the ones sold for adding stenciling along interior walls. I choose the size based on the effect I want to add. Micromark has a really nice set of brushes designed for drybrushing models favored by Karl and others on this forum.
I am a "dry sponger" when I paint my walls, but when I want to thin out the craft paints, I started using this Liquitex product- its a nice product for making the craft paint act like a "stain"- increases the drying time also. I have also used the stuff when I put paint in my airbrush...
Quote from: rpdylan on April 12, 2017, 11:28:25 AM
I am a "dry sponger" when I paint my walls, but when I want to thin out the craft paints, I started using this Liquitex product- its a nice product for making the craft paint act like a "stain"- increases the drying time also. I have also used the stuff when I put paint in my airbrush...
Flow-Aid is great stuff, even better when you use a 40% off craft ("Michaels"/"Hobby Lobby") coupon for it. I have an old "sports water bottle" with the pop-up top, I mix Flow-Aid with distilled water and keep it in that bottle (clearly labeled "Do Not Drink.") I also got a little dropper bottle from my wife that had contact lens solution. I pried the top off, cleaned thoroughly, and put some Flow-Aid solution into that dropper bottle, to make it easy to mix small amounts of paint.
dave
Afternoon All,
Thank you to Dave K., Jerry, Bob C., and Dave for your support and information.
Today I put a coat of A&I on the outside wood surfaces. After that I trimmed all the plastic edges of the windows and doors, then lightly sprayed them with a rattle can of flat sand color (the lightest paint I could find here at the house). I figure it will be several days of applying thin coats of green on them.
I'm not sure how much I will get done between tomorrow and Monday since I have family duties this weekend.
Right now the thing that I am nervous about is putting on the trim before "raising the walls". I know several of you have said that you do this. I just don't see how I can be sure all the corners will look right doing it early. I will most likely attach the trim after the walls are glued together.
Curt,
I should have thought of this sooner. Jimmy Diegnan posted a great 10 minute video by Doug Foscale on youtube on modeling wood walls. In it Doug shows the basics of bracing and assembling the walls of a wood kit. I will attempt to post the link, but sometimes links I post do not work, I confess to being 'puter challenged. Should the link not work, go to youtube and search "Doug Foscale" and it should come up. Here goes nothing, hope this works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUVcOkMIdtw
putting the trim on the gable walls while they are flat enables you to cut and sand the trim for the angle of the gable end wall. I put all my wall trim on after I have painted the walls and before I brace the walls. I lift some boards and I put in my nail holes after painting (so the paint doesn't fill in the nail holes)- a hit with some AI "brings out" the holes and stains behind any boards that are lifted. After bracing I put all my windows in, window shades/ glazing, add signs, wall castings (much easier to do with the walls laying flat)-- then I glue my walls together using a square/ 90 degree clamps, ect. Doing things in this order has served me well. A nice demonstration of this method can be found on the Bob Mitchell DVD from Foscale (plus Bob is entertaining as hell)-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtRriBMo8mQ
Definitely put the trim on before assembling the walls! 👍🏻 By the way, the video clip is from the DVD I mentioned to you. You're doing great! 👍🏻🎉
Afternoon All,
Jerry and Bob C. thank you for posting the videos. I feel comfortable now attaching the trim before connecting the walls together.
Dave K. thank you for your comments.
Today I hooked up 2 yard lights to SPST switches (obviously not building related :o). I also painted the wood trim and I'm happy with that and put a coat of green trim paint on the plastic doors and windows. Talk about tedious! The picture shows how they look after 1 coat. Should I leave it like this or put another coat on? I'm not sure if it looks close enough to wood.
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One thing that I do with plastic doors/ windows is that I use a #11 blade and/or a fine tooth saw blade and drag it over the plastic to simulate wood grain- don't go too deep, just enough to take the smoothness out of the material= AI will make the "grain" pop. A great idea that I learned from D. Foscale is to lightly dry sponge the painted windows/doors with some earth colored paint-- this will have the effect of making the paint look as if it is peeling. I also like hitting the doors/windows with some gray, brown, black pan pastels (after the structure is put together) to tone down the paint. Things are looking great so far!
(A great tool I got from Micro-Mark for distressing plastic windows/ doors is this thing:
I do more dry-dabbing lately as well, Curt. I like the effect it creates.
Hi curt:
Looks like you are off to a good start with this kit. I'm following along.
Karl
I like the subtle variation in the paint tones on the door. The sponge dabbing and/or dry brushing will age it and match it to the walls.
Curt,
Re: painting a second coat onto your doors. If you want the building to look freshly painted, a second coat is needed. If you plan to add a degree of wear, you have two choices. Leave it as it is, the paint already has a worn uneven look. Or, add a second coat to get a uniform surface that you will later weather. There is no right answer. I use both options, depending on how I visualize the final look I am after, and the great thing is that you can achieve almost the same end result either way by varying the weathering technique. Bottom line, unless you are modeling a freshly painted structure, there is no black and white answer to your question.
I think it looks good as is. I assume the brown I see is the primer showing through. Maybe a dry-dabbing with just a tad of brown as mentioned above, followed by white dry-brushing just to hit the highlights. Looking good!
Looking awesome with this kit Curt! I wouldn't add more paint to that door personally. Looks like wood to me! I do sometimes distress the windows and doors as Dylan stated above, but more often I get good effects from dry brushing chalks and sponge dabbing lately. I think the paint looks good as is and it even has that fade look in spots which really shows nice highlights.....
I will be following along for sure!
Afternoon All,
Thank you Bob C., Dave K., Karl, Jeff, Jerry, and Todd for your suggestions, support and well wishes.
Today I got a junk piece of plastic wood and window. I prepped it like I did the doors and windows yesterday, then I scrapped it with a brass bristle brush, put a coat of A&I on it and after drying I dry dabbed Tamiya Color XF-59 Desert Yellow on it (It was the closest in the house to the brown I wanted).
Tomorrow when I go to the club I will stop by the LHS and see if they have Pollyscale Earth.
I really like the way it came out. It gives the plastic a feeling of depth.
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No more modeling until Monday (family get together Sunday). I wish everyone a Happy Easter.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 14, 2017, 02:54:56 PMTomorrow when I go to the club I will stop by the LHS and see if they have Pollyscale Earth.
If that LHS happens to be Colonial Photo and Hobby you're probably out of luck. Tom cleaned them out of all the good Floquil and PollyScale colors the moment it was announced the lines were being discontinued. I know, I ran down there to do the exact same thing but he lives closer and got there before I did. I had to settle for what Hobby Town had left on their racks. :P
I use the cheap craft store acrylics for this step. I use Khaki in lieu of Earth when I want to represent where paint has peeled off exposing the bare wood and/or Dove Grey when I want to represent the undercoat of primer showing thru the paint. Sometimes I use both, sometimes only one. I love the 'dry sponging' technique. :D
Good Afternoon,
Thanks Bob for the info on the craft paint.
Today I finished the doors and window frames by dragging a brass bristle brush across them, then putting another coat of A&I on them, and finally dry dabbing Khaki color craft paint on them.
I also painted the sides of the building. The A&I bleeds through just enough to give it a slightly grimy look I think. I did notice the 2 big pieces warped a little after I painted them so I put them under weight again until they dried.
I ordered a light online that mounts on the building above the front door to add a little more life to the building. The sign in the picture is not attached. I made it from a Brother P-Touch machine and attached that to a thin piece of sheet styrene (For Sale Sign). The black dots are a attempt to simulate the bolt heads holding it up. I'm not sure If I am going to use it though.
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Curt,
This is really coming out great. Are you sure this is your first wood kit? I think you might be hustling us....
Afternoon All,
Jerry- You are really too kind. My wood kit experience is limited to 2 AMB budget kits that took about an hour to build.
Today I dry dabbed the bottom of the outside walls, added a couple of signs and installed the window frames and doors. I don't think the signs came out as nice as the video Doug made showing how to do it, but some of it may be the colors involved and the size.
I did manage to put 3 windows in upside down ???, but I caught it early and thankfully with the windows being plastic I was able to push them out and reinstall them without damage.
I do have a question about roof coloring. With the rest of the building aged I figure the roof should have some age also. What paint do you guys use to show that?
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Good Afternoon,
Today I attached the "glass" and window shades. For the shades I used pieces of a manila folder. It was a good color match for the wall paint.
Tomorrow I will start attaching the trim and walls which will be interesting. It's coming together slowly but surely.
I tried taking a picture but for some reason they came out badly after several tries.
Curt,
You are doing a great job on the build. I do have a suggestion though.
I would add more green to the bottom border. The weathering of the green doesn't match the weathering of the structure walls. I'd daub on a little more green.
Reference the roof. You can use a dark gray, light gray or black for the paint color on the roof. I'm guessing you are using rolled roofing that came with the kit. If you use black, you can weather it with light gray pastel chalk. If going with the gray, you can weather it with dark gray or black pastel chalks.
Again, for your first wood build, you're dong really great.
Tom ;D
Tom- Thank you for the suggestions. I have darkened the bottom green band. I still haven't decided which way to go with the roof color yet, but I have a little time before I have to decide.
The directions don't address whether the peaked roof should be "papered" then put on the building or if the cardboard under frame should be attached to the building first. What do you recommend? My concern is that with the paper on it that it won't bend properly.
You'll get different answers from different builders, Curt, but I apply roofing materials while it can be laid flat on the workbench. It's the only way I can be sure of getting it on straight. Then, once installed on the building I add the ridge cap that folds over onto both slopes of the roof. Just my approach.
Quote from: Dave K. on April 20, 2017, 12:04:05 PM
You'll get different answers from different builders, Curt, but I apply roofing materials while it can be laid flat on the workbench. It's the only way I can be sure of getting it on straight. Then, once installed on the building I add the ridge cap that folds over onto both slopes of the roof. Just my approach.
This is how I do it as well. I usually spray the rolled roofing with flat black spray paint. After the mostly completed roof is installed I then randomly add brown and gray powders.
I draw lines on the roof so I an make sure I'm putting the strips on straight. I usually pre color the tar paper with spray paint. Black, sometime a color (dark green or red) over the black in a random pattern. Then some grey . Maybe add another layer of black or color as well. Blacken the visible edges (and where the pieces overhang the roof) with a sharpie so you don't see a white stripe on the roof. Then chalks for over all weathering. I like to apply the strips while the roof is flat before it's on the building.
Jeff
Afternoon All,
Dave, Bobby, and Jeff thank you for your input and ideas about the roof.
Today I attached the trim then put all the walls together. Tomorrow I will start on the roof.
I asked in the daily blog, does anyone have any input on MOTRAK building kits?
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Afternoon All,
Today I started on the 3 roofs. I spent about 3 hours on them today. I got the lower 2 roofs installed, all the trim and eaves are cut for the third one and it's "tar papered". I also trimmed the bottom of the chimney so it will sit properly on the roof. Of course the roofs need to be weathered still.
I'm not sure I like the roofs but it's too late to change it. Hopefully with weathering it looks better to my eye.
No modeling tomorrow so I should finish up on Sunday with the exception of the outside wall light.
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Afternoon All,
Today I finished the build ;D 8) ;D and it has been placed on the layout. I still need to add a light above the door but I have to wait until it arrives.
I would like to thank everyone for their well wishes, support and suggestions. Left to my own devices it would not of come out nearly as good. Thanks again.
Here is the before and after buildings.
I don't know what happened with the before. I'll try again
Nice job, Curt. Now, you're not allowed to stop. You have to have two or three kits going at once. And to complete your Forum probationary period you have to streak through Jimmy's block party
screaming, "The Pennsy lives! The Pennsy lives!" 😜
Thanks Dave. Sorry for the lousy pictures. Unfortunately or fortunately I only tend to do one project at a time...much less confusion that way. :o I will be happy to say Pennsy lives, ;) but I don't understand the reference. Remember I'm a newbie. ::)
Streaking? The '70s? Like Groovy Jeff does?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bxUfg3uCBbg (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bxUfg3uCBbg)
Sometimes I am slow on the uptake!
No...just younger! ;D
Hi Curt:
Looks great on the layout. Thanks for sharing.
Karl
Well done Curt.....looking forward to seeing your future projects. 8)
Curt,
Thanks for the before and after photos, the new structure adds so much interest to this scene. Have you thought about maybe placing it at a slight angle and adding some non-pavement scenery and details around it to really show it off?
Thank you Karl and Greg.
Thanks Jerry, I will definitely look at that.
Here is a photo that you can see.
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Sweet job Curt! love how your windows and doors, especially the door frames turned out in tone...Thanks for sharing
Thanks Todd for the kind words.
Curt,
The whole addition to your layout is great.
Jim
Thanks Jim. It all started out as a needed destination for my container and TrucTrain cars.