Okay, since Donato is anxiously awaiting my next thread here goes. ;D I picked this one up at the EXPO last year. It's the Atlantic Scale Modelers - St. Martin Yard Office. I've never built one of Hal's kits but really liked the look of this one so I bought it along with another of his kits. I hope I do it justice! :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115235-22623910.jpeg)
Here are the contents spread out on my workbench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115235-226242399.jpeg)
I started by cleaning removing the windows and doors from their sprues with my handy, dandy sprue cutter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115235-226252134.jpeg)
Then I touched up the edges with an emery board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115235-226262112.jpeg)
The instructions called for removing the window section from the large door so I did that with my sprue cutter as well.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115235-22627430.jpeg)
After which I touched the top of the large door up with the emery board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115407-226281738.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Any rough edges on the metal castings were then touched up with a file.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115407-226291984.jpeg)
I liked that the instructions included a template for cutting the base of the chimney at the appropriate angle to match the pitch of the roof. I did that with a razor saw and it took forever. But, I was too lazy to get up, go out into the hot garage and dig around for the cutoff disk for my Dremel which I misplaced some time ago, yada, yada, yada. I just nibbled away at it until I got thru it. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115407-226301784.jpeg)
Everything that needed to be primed was then placed on one of my painting trays (and old jelly roll tray) on some painters tape that was taped upside down (sticky side up) onto the tray.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115407-226311697.jpeg)
Next I sorted the strip wood, by size, and roughed it up using a wire brush I got in the welding section at Home Depot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115407-226322301.jpeg)
After that all the strip wood got a bath in Hunterline Light Grey Weathering stain in my little homemade bathtub.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115447-22633821.jpeg)
As I removed the strip wood from the bath tub I propped it up in an old box to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617115447-22634551.jpeg)
That's all the photo's I have uploaded at the moment. The rest are still in my camera waiting for me to get off my lazy you-know-what and transfer to the computer. Maybe this weekend. :D
Thanks for following along!
Looks like another great build thread from Bob that I sure will be following.
And it does look like a very interesting office .... ;)
Look forward to this,
Paul (St Martin)
Bob,
Since I bought mine the same time you purchased yours, I'll be following as well.
Great start.
Tom ;D
Off to a great start Bob, reminded me I have to make one of them A&I tubs.
Great start Bob. I look forward to following your build.
I gotta watch this one......
Jim
I'll be following along as well Bob.
Always a good day when Bob introduces a new thread. Happily following...
i'll be keeping an eye on this one too. :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 01, 2017, 09:30:38 AM
i'll be keeping an eye on this one too. :)
Me too ....
(https://www.exboyfriendrecovery.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/im-watching-you.jpg)
This is for Donato:
NOTE: Do Not try this at home. Moe, Larry and Curley were professional commedians. :D
dave
Quote from: PaulS on June 30, 2017, 04:51:03 PM
Looks like another great build thread from Bob that I sure will be following.
And it does look like a very interesting office .... ;)
Look forward to this,
Paul (St Martin)
Okay Paul. How many model structures are there that bear your name? ;D I know this isn't the first one I've encountered. ;D ;D
Thanks for following along! :D
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 30, 2017, 05:29:13 PM
Bob,
Since I bought mine the same time you purchased yours, I'll be following as well.
Great start.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! I'll bring it around one of these days so you can get an idea of how big it really is for planning purposes.
For the rest of the gang Tom and I opened the kit at the airport, while waiting on our delayed flight, on the return trip from the EXPO. I was really impressed with the instructions which were clearly written and contained a lot of photo's. I've been kind of anxious to get this one on the work bench since that time.
Quote from: Janbouli on June 30, 2017, 06:00:52 PM
Off to a great start Bob, reminded me I have to make one of them A&I tubs.
Thanks Jan! Those tubs are really handy and worth the effort it takes to make one. I was planning on a more sophisticated way to drain the contents back into bottle but ended up simply drilling a hole in one end and putting double sided foam tape around the hole. I simply press the opening of the bottle against he hole/tape and pour the stain back into the bottle with nary a drop lost. ;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 30, 2017, 07:18:34 PM
Great start Bob. I look forward to following your build.
Thanks Curt! Appreciate it. Still looking forward to meeting you one of these days. :D
Quote from: MAP on July 01, 2017, 07:17:59 AM
I'll be following along as well Bob.
Thanks Mark! The more the merrier. :D
Quote from: Dave K. on July 01, 2017, 07:44:45 AM
Always a good day when Bob introduces a new thread. Happily following...
Thanks Dave! I really appreciate that. I've learned a lot from your threads. :D
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 01, 2017, 09:30:38 AM
i'll be keeping an eye on this one too. :)
Uh-oh! Greg's following along. Now I have to behave myself. ;)
Quote from: Donato on July 01, 2017, 03:29:37 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 01, 2017, 09:30:38 AM
i'll be keeping an eye on this one too. :)
Me too ....
(https://www.exboyfriendrecovery.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/im-watching-you.jpg)
Thanks Donato! Always a pleasure to have you following along and posting. :D
Quote from: deemery on July 01, 2017, 04:17:12 PM
This is for Donato:
NOTE: Do Not try this at home. Moe, Larry and Curley were professional commedians. :D
dave
Classic. ;D
Okay, back to the build. I have to apologize though. I'm going to pick it up four or five pictures later than I wanted to. I took the pictures. :) But didn't have the memory stick in the camera at the time. :( D'oh! :o
What you're seeing next is the construction of the deck. The kit includes laser cut chipboard templates. The first contains a rectangular opening in which you lay 20 pieces of strip wood, cut to fit, that make up the top of the deck. Then you tape on the templates used to align the joists and start gluing the joists in place. Which is what I'm doing here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114342-234331650.jpeg)
There's another template that makes up the legs/supports. You need to make three of these assemblies.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114342-234761415.jpeg)
After the three leg assemblies have been completed I glued them to the bottom of the deck, two facing forward and the rear one facing the back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114342-234772161.jpeg)
Since I had inverted the rear leg assembly the bracing ran opposite of the two other leg assemblies. This bug me enough that I carefully removed the bracing and glued it back on so it would run the same way as the other two. I doubt anyone would notice something like this when the structure is in place on a layout but I did it anyway. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114342-23478867.jpeg)
Time to start working on the walls. I removed them from the carrier sheets using a single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114342-234791071.jpeg)
Then I sanded the edges square using an emery board. A trick I learned from Tom (ACL1504).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114448-234802269.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Next I applied some 'spacers' supplied in the kit and bracing to the walls. Note that this particular spacer gets applied to the clapboard surface side of the wall. That seems counterintuitive but it's correct. It'll make more sense when you see how the walls go together. There's a photo of this in the instructions but I can imagine it would still be easy to make the mistake of gluing it to the back of the wall. Luckily I didn't.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114448-23481207.jpeg)
I glued bracing to the back of the walls more or less per the instructions. I added a little more to the peaked walls. I find the 'peaks' on walls like that subject to warping if not braced right up to the peak. :P I align one end of the bracing with one edge of the wall and trim the other edge to fit later on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114448-234821178.jpeg)
After the bracing has been applied I put some weight on them for a few minutes. I'm using Pink Flamingo Glue so it doesn't take too long for this to set up enough that I can trim them. The glue may not be completely dried but the grip is fairly strong at that point.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114448-23483989.jpeg)
Then I trim the bracing using a single edge razor blade. Cutting across grain like this it can be tough on the fingers at times and if that happens I revert to a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle to make these cuts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114448-234841568.jpeg)
After the walls have been braced I stained the front with Hunterline Weathering Mix Light Gray. After that dried I painted the walls with Floquil Depot Buff (not shown).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114611-234852144.jpeg)
Then I painted the interior of the walls with a black acrylic craft paint. I try not to load the brush with paint when I do this. I want to spread a layer of paint on that's just enough to cover the surface but not so heavy that it soaks in and 'wets' the wall causing it to want to warp. Note the wall with the 'spacer' on it in the photo. I painted the spacer area black because it will be inside the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114611-234861840.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Next up I added 'nail holes' using a square and ponce wheel. There's been all kinds of debates about 'nail holes, ponce wheels, etc. but I like them so I add them. :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114611-234872160.jpeg)
After the nail holes have been added I pried up a few of the clapboards with a chisel blade in an X-Acto. Some I just slipped the blade under and lifted up a little bit. One or two I twisted the blade and broke off a sliver of the clapboard. How much you do depends on how badly beaten up you want the structure to look. I didn't want this one to look to neglected or old so I tried to go light on this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114611-2348899.jpeg)
I had already painted the doors, windows and strip wood that would be used for corner posts, etc. with Polly Scale Roof Brown. The next thing I did was hit them, and the walls as well, with a sponged dabbed in a light gray craft paint. I want to get some of the gray paint on spots to represent where the main color has peeled away and the primer beneath can be seen. I'm not too worried if I get a little heavy here and there. There's an A&I wash coming next that can tone it down and even scrub some of it away.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114611-23489254.jpeg)
Then I hit everything with an A&I wash. The A&I mix on my workbench is too dark but I also have a bottle of straight A on my bench. I dip the brush in the straight A first to load it and then the A&I. I can play with the darkness this way. This can be used to scrub off some of the gray paint from the previous step if it's on too heavy for your liking and it will settle down into the 'nail holes', darken them and cause the wood to swell slightly closing them up a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114728-23490849.jpeg)
I glued on the corner posts, per the illustrations in the instructions and trimmed them to fit with the single edge razor blade. When doing this I pay some attention to the strip wood and orient so the two best surfaces will be visible and the two worst surfaces will be glued against the edges of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114728-23491205.jpeg)
After gluing the windows in place I was going to add the laser cut glazing material inside them but opted, instead, to use Microscale Industries Micro Krystal Clear to glaze them. It's like a thick white glue and all you do it apply it to the back of the windows and draw it across to get a thin film that fills in each opening. I rarely every have any trouble with bubbles when I use this stuff and I like the way it sets up and looks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114728-234922221.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
For blinds I glue bits of paper painted, in this case, light green to the back of the windows. The paper is cut to random lengths just like blinds would be partially open or closed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114728-234932204.jpeg)
Finally the walls are ready to be assembled. I glued one end to the rear wall first to make an L. I used a square to keep 'em, well, square. :) I just held them in place for a few minutes and then set them aside and did the same with the from wall and other end wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114728-234942406.jpeg)
I then took my two L assemblies and glued them together (again keeping things square). Now you can start to see why the spacer being glued to the front of the front wall is important.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114853-23495110.jpeg)
Next I painted the shingle material with a gray (Country Gray) craft paint. They were a nice shade of brown but I wanted gray shingles on my structure. I used a sponge, rather than a brush, to dab the paint on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114853-234961945.jpeg)
Next I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the surface of the roof cards. I trim it to fit with a pair of Friskar Micro Shears. Note to self - I need a new roll of Transfer Tape. ;D Who's going to be selling it at the EXPO?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114854-234971385.jpeg)
I peeled off the back of the transfer tape which leaves just the sticky part of the tape on the rood card. When I remember to do it I add a thin strip of the shingle material to the bottom edge of the roof. This 'lifts' the bottom row of shingles which makes them match the pitch of the shingles above them. Without this they lay flat on the roof and are the only row of shingles that does so.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114854-23498968.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
After applying shingles to all the roof components I carefully sanded the top edge of each to it would mate with it's counterpart. The roof cards and bracing are laser cut from a photo matte board type material and a little thicker than normal chipboard. I like the way these assemble because it makes it easy to make a removable roof with no extra effort required on my part.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114854-234991365.jpeg)
Finally (last photo for today) I assembled the stairs. The runners are cut from some brown microfiber type board. I first painted them to, more or less, match the decking and steps. Then they slip into a little jig included in the kit and the steps can be glued to them. Pretty neat little process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010717114924-23500437.jpeg)
That's it for today. Next time I'll show the installation of lighting and the structure with the details added to the platform.
Thanks for following along!
Quote from: ReadingBob on July 04, 2017, 10:24:53 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 01, 2017, 09:30:38 AM
i'll be keeping an eye on this one too. :)
Uh-oh! Greg's following along. Now I have to behave myself. ;)
It's a good thing your behaving.....a happy Eileen is a happy Bob. ;D ;D ;D
Coming along very nicely Bob. Always enjoy your build threads, almost as though we are at the bench with you.
Haven't ever tried the Micro Krystal Clear but will perhaps give it a go on my next build.
Thanks again for sharing your efforts here,
--Paul
So Bob, I guess you are earning more diet coke. I always learn something new from your detailed building process. Great work.
Try gluing some sandpaper onto a wood paint stirring paddle, to make a longer sanding stick. I use those all the time, they're particularly good for sanding the 'burn' off of long laser-cut pieces. I use pressure-sensitive/self-stick sanding paper, in multiple grits.
dave
Great build so far Bob.
Bob, you NEVER disappoint. I love to read your build threads because I learn something new every time I do so.
Thanks for all the kind comments gang. Interesting idea with the sandpaper paint sticks Dave.
Time to put the finishing touches on this one so I can get it off my workbench. I added some 'pitch' around the chimney. My Liquid Leading ran dry and I haven't been able to find it at any of the craft stores so I reverted to the old Grimy Black (Acrylic) Paint/Elmers White Glue mix to make a little pitch. I applied it with a pointy thing I have one my workbench. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-238031722.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-238031722.jpeg)
For the lighting I needed one goose neck lamp for outside lighting. I threaded the wires from an LED I had previously soldered leads to thru a tichy lampshade and a short piece of .018 outside diameter tubing and then bent the tubing around the round end of a small screwdriver. It's important to feed the wire thru the tubing while it's still straight. After you bend it it's not going to go thru. The made the curved portion of the goose neck. Then I made a 90 bend by simply holding the tubing the tip of a needle nose piers. Then I painted the assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-2382799.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-2382799.jpeg)
After drilling a hole it the wall where I wanted the lamp I tested it to make sure it still worked.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-23828776.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-23828776.jpeg)
Next I made a drop in 'ceiling' using a scrap piece of photo mat board. I glued some support inside the walls to hold it level with the top of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-238291127.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-238291127.jpeg)
Using some copper foil tape I laid out a pathway for the circuit. The hardest part about this is getting the backing off of the copper foil tape. I use the edge of a knife to try to separate one from the other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-238302431.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717130929-238302431.jpeg)
Then just stick the tape in place. I laid out the circuit in my head. This one is pretty simple. Only three LED's and one current limiter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131031-238312461.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTU20L_71M9rluc9rrSZYsOsCjMkqetSilBFQQzaKGBLKeHFIyS)
After drilling holes, installing the LED's (except for the goose neck lamp) and Current Limiter and soldering everything including where the tape overlaps itself it was time to cut out short pieces of the tape like I'm doing here. This is between the two leads for the Current Limiter. I simply sliced a small piece and lifted it out with the tip of the knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-238321142.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-238321142.jpeg)
Then I tested the circuit. The Goose Neck hasn't been factored in yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-23833666.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-23833666.jpeg)
I dropped the roof in place then soldered the two leads to for the goose neck lamp directly to the copper tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-238341086.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-238341086.jpeg)
After the leads were soldered to the copper tape I cut a small gap in the tape between them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-23835550.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131032-23835550.jpeg)
Here's the finished (or so I thought) product. From the pictures I see a few things I need to touch up. Photo's really come in handy for spotting things you may not see looking directly at the model. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131146-23836858.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131146-23836858.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131146-238371837.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131146-238371837.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131146-23838873.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131146-23838873.jpeg)
There are a few light 'leaks' I need to plug.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131147-238391745.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131147-238391745.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131147-23840683.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131147-23840683.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131221-238411495.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160717131221-238411495.jpeg)
Thanks for following along! This is a neat little kit Hal! I'll be dropping by your table at the EXPO to see what else you have. :D
Great build Bob. That's a very interesting technique with the copper tape.
Once again I've picked up a tip or two from your build. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Your Yard Office came out beautifully Bob, but we expected nothing less !!! And I always enjoy and learn from your build threads.
Thanks for sharing this with us all,
--Paul
Another great build Bob. That's a nice little kit!
John
Hi Bob,
Great tutorial on the LED lighting. What you call a current limiter, is that just a resistor?
Whose LED's did you use? Ngineering?
Thanks
Love the lighting Bob..... 8)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 16, 2017, 02:48:49 PM
Great build Bob. That's a very interesting technique with the copper tape.
Thanks Curt. The copper tape makes things look a lot neater than they would if I just used wire. Some of my early efforts, pre-copper tape, are a tangled nest of wires. I find it's a lot easier to visualize the circuit when it's laid out with the copper tape.
Nice looking little structure, Bob.
Jeff
Quote from: Dave K. on July 16, 2017, 03:41:09 PM
Once again I've picked up a tip or two from your build. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Dave! Glad to hear that. I picked up a lot of tips from your threads (as well as others). That's why I hang out on the forum. ;)
Quote from: PaulS on July 16, 2017, 05:26:58 PM
Your Yard Office came out beautifully Bob, but we expected nothing less !!! And I always enjoy and learn from your build threads.
Thanks for sharing this with us all,
--Paul
Thanks Paul. Glad to have you following along on the build of one of your namesake structures. ;D
Quote from: Cuse on July 16, 2017, 08:04:19 PM
Another great build Bob. That's a nice little kit!
John
Thanks John! I'll definitely be checking out the kits Hal has for sale at the next EXPO. This one was a pleasure to build.
Quote from: sdrees on July 16, 2017, 10:16:33 PM
Hi Bob,
Great tutorial on the LED lighting. What you call a current limiter, is that just a resistor?
Whose LED's did you use? Ngineering?
Thanks
Thanks Steve,
Most of the stuff I used is from Slim's site, Microlumina Miniature Lighting (http://microlumina.com/). I've either ordered it from his site or picked it up at his table at the EXPO. Trust me, I'm not very electrical minded so if I can do this most people should be able to.
The Current Limiters are, in a way, resistors. I guess. But they eliminate the need to calculate the size of resistor needed. I have one Current Limiter at the beginning of the circuit. That takes 3 volts. Then there are 3 LED's that following in series. Each takes 3 volts. So you'd think the power supply should equal 12 volts right? Well, the test supply I use is 18 volts. The Current Limiter only allows thru what the LED's need to operate. I think it can handle up to 60 volts. Don't ask me how it works. It's magic to me. ;D
Slim has some documentation about this on his website that's very helpful.
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 17, 2017, 08:41:31 AM
Love the lighting Bob..... 8)
Thanks Greg. I'm hooked on lighting. It's all Slim's fault.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 17, 2017, 10:52:05 AM
Nice looking little structure, Bob.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff! Much appreciated. ;)
Hi Bob:
Very Very Well Dine!!!!! Nice colors and weathering. Also the lighting is pretty cool.
Karl S.
Bob, The build looks like it would fit into any space and look very natural. I always love the lighting effects and your implementation is a good benchmark for us to aim for.
Quote from: postalkarl on July 17, 2017, 11:38:59 AM
Hi Bob:
Very Very Well Dine!!!!! Nice colors and weathering. Also the lighting is pretty cool.
Karl S.
Thanks Karl! Much appreciated. To me the pictures really exaggerate my mistakes. :-[ But they give me clues as to what I may want to fix or tone down. I think it looks better in person. ;) I'm kind of hooked on lighting. It's not my favorite part of the build but I like the effect.
Quote from: JusticeCity on July 17, 2017, 06:12:39 PM
Bob, The build looks like it would fit into any space and look very natural. I always love the lighting effects and your implementation is a good benchmark for us to aim for.
Thanks Marty! I really appreciate the comments. This is a neat little structure that could be squeezed into a small space. Someday I hope to build a layout and it'll be nice to have this one ready on the shelf. :D
I gotta get me some of that Copper tape and try it out.
You do such a fantastic job on that.
Jim
Great job as usual Bob! It's always fun and a learning event all rolled up into one of your builds. I'm really liking the lighting.
Nice build Bob!! The lights make a big difference, nice addition.
Hal
Bob
Very nicely done! And as I have said before, your build threads have no equal. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Quote from: jimmillho on July 18, 2017, 07:07:44 PM
I gotta get me some of that Copper tape and try it out.
You do such a fantastic job on that.
Jim
Hi Jim,
It's a little hard to separate the tape from the backing but totally worth it in the long run. It beats have a birds nest of wires stuffed inside the structure! :D
Quote from: MAP on July 19, 2017, 08:17:45 AM
Great job as usual Bob! It's always fun and a learning event all rolled up into one of your builds. I'm really liking the lighting.
Thanks Mark! Glad you found it interesting. :D
Quote from: halrey on July 19, 2017, 08:24:47 AM
Nice build Bob!! The lights make a big difference, nice addition.
Hal
Thanks Hal and thanks for the wonderful kit. I'll be stopping by your table at the EXPO to see what you have. I'll probably visit that guy who sells the lighting stuff too. ;)
Quote from: S&S RR on July 19, 2017, 08:35:16 AM
Bob
Very nicely done! And as I have said before, your build threads have no equal. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks John! I really appreciate you're following along and posting comments. :D
Bob,
Been lurking about and now that my finger is healed. Nice job, great work! Pretty Kewl!!! Thanx Thom...
(https://lesbianconservative.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/000_62452.jpg)