It's been so long I've been away I really don't know anything about the 2018 Winter challenge build, but it certainly is time I built something. This new offering by Artie and the crew had good curb appeal to me because I love vintage wooden structures, and I hope this will be worthy of a tribute to George. I first met the man 48 years ago, and spent a few hours watching him at a national NMRA show as he built a little signal tower. It sure hooked me on the hobby.
This won't be a traditional sbs build thread, but I'll give some check lists on the sequence of how I like to build kits. I'll spare you box opening pics, since I opened the box and started before I decided to do a thread. The first pic is from the Bar Mills website, and as you can tell there are three separate buildings in this diorama kit. I'll start with "Sal Manilla's Egg Wholesaler"- I usually rename and make my own signs for these things, but I loved this name.
First thing was to use my sprue cutter to remove the 30+ windows and put them on a card with masking tape sticky side up. The windows were super clean, virtually no cleanup required. A light rattle can gray primer, and the cheaper the primer the thinner the paint, and that is a good thing. Next day I dabbed on lightly some Dick Blick Matte Acrylic Saphire (blue). It came in a small 2 oz. craft size container and was a close-out at our local Dick Blick store. I used a NEW terry cloth wash cloth ($ store) to apply. A little later I did some dry brushing to pop some highlights.
While the six wall sections were still in their surrounds I sprayed the same gray primer on them VERY lightly. A day to dry, and then using more small squares of the terry cloth I dabbed on some Folk Art "Sunflower", thinned with a drop of water. Before the dabbing onto the clapboard siding, quite a bit of the yellow paint was dabbed onto my glass worktop and some paper towels. This process gives a credible "peeling paint" effect. I started doing the "rubber cement applied with toothpick method" and then painting, and erasing, etc. but it takes forever and it looks better in larger scales than HO.
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Hey Mike:
Very cool I will be watching with much interest.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on January 15, 2018, 07:58:36 PM
Hey Mike:
Very cool I will be watching with much interest.
Karl
Me too. I also just bought this kit for my wife to give me for my birthday this weekend (yep, you read that right). I think this is the next kit I would like to build. Anxious to watch you bring it to life.
Vince
Hi Mike,
I will be following also to see how you do your stuff.
Mike
Great to have you along on the challenge build. I will be following along. I bought the kit and have a place picked out for it but it will be awhile before I get to build it.
I'll be watching your progress, Mike.
I think Bar Mills are trying hard (with great success) to fill some of the gap left by Fine Scale Miniatures and South River Modelworks exiting the craftsman kit manufacturing world. Its great to see, and I think this tribute kit is a real winner.
Cheers, Mark.
Off to a great start Mike , I'll be following along.
Thanks for joining the build challenge Mr. Engler. I'm sure we will learn a lot with your talents.
Neat looking structure Mike.....I'll be looking in.....and welcome back, we've missed your builds. :)
Thanks to all who looked in. One good thing about being away for awhile is that it is great catching up on a lot of neat build threads I missed. I also see Jim Mooney checks in here from time-to-time and maybe I'll get to consult occasionally as I'm sure he was very instrumental in producing the kit.
I haven't decided on a base for this yet, so I plan to build the three structures while making up my mind. I'm thinking it might be part of a waterfront scene. The era will be early thirties.
I planned to give you a few checklists, so here is the methodology of graining, staining, and detailing walls:
WALLS for wooden structures. (this one clapboard siding)
1. Apply grain using wire scratch brushes, card file, and X-acto #11 blade
2. Nail holes, using smallest pounce wheel. I use 3' centers- less looks hokey to me. If they are too
small to see it's OK as you probably wouldn't see them on the prototype either.
3. Cut some board joints at the nail hole lines
4. Pry up a few boards with a chisel blade. DO NOT OVERDO
5. Spray very light primer coat with cheap rattle-can (gray or tan) and dry for a day
6. Dab on finish color lightly using dry-brush technique, apply with pieces of NEW terry cloth
7. Weather with some A/I in places. This can also be done before finish coat applied.
8. Apply signs, stencils.
9. Apply interior bracing. Artie supplies 5/32" sq. You can't overbrace but be mindful of adjoining walls.
10. Spray back of walls black- if no interior this will prevent looking in windows and seeing bracing etc.
11. Paint and apply corner posts.
12. Apply windows and doors. Separate check list on prepping and painting them.
13. Touch up your peeling paint with #11 blade- do final weathering
Some prefer to brace before any painting. Some install windows after walls are together. There are many ways to do all of things, and most will work. I prefer to do as much decorating and detailing of the walls while they are flat on the workbench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160118142405.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160118142405.jpeg)
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Hi Mike:
Looking good so far. I have this kit also.
Karl
The walls look fantastic Mike! I also do that clothespin hack for clamps- they work great!
Like the color of the wall.
Eric.
Mike
It's looking great so far - I too like the wall color.
Mike,
I'm in for the long haul also.
Tom ;D
Wall color is very nice. Everything is done at you usual high level.
ed
Gonna enjoy looking over your shoulder on this one, Mike. 👍🏻
It's great to have all of you seasoned veterans along for this thread- I've learned from you, admired your work, and become friends with many of you. Nothing better than train shows for bonding.
I have a short checklist on plastic windows. The Bar Mills windows are great. They also have some great die-cut windows you construct, but since this little building has about 30 windows I'm glad they are styrene. Quicker to install and some great detail.
Windows:
1. Spray one side of window sheet with Dull-cote or Workable Fixatif (I don't like the new Dull-cote)
2. Cut the individual window glazing pieces from the sheet.
3. Use a sprue-cutter to remove all of the window frames from the sprue.
4. Use X-acto and fine sand paper to clean any sprue parts from the frames.
5. Tape all windows to some card stock for spraying.
6. Spray a very light prime coat- I use tan (wood) or light gray rattle-can.
7. I dabbed on the Blick Sapphire with the terry cloth, covering most of the primer- peeling paint look.
8. Dry-brushed all of the windows with an acrylic antique white.
9. Glued the glazing pieces to the windows. I use Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Shiny side facing out.
10. Glue windows in place, again with canopy glue. I use it for everything, including wood-to-wood.
11. Cut and glue window shades from tan construction paper. Dirty with chalk, cut some rips or tears.
Again- this is my sequence. Many kit manufacturers and good modelers will vary on how they do these things, and the order in which they do them. Again, I like to do as much as possible while the walls are flat on my kitchen counter cutting mat and plate glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-180118011721.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-180118011721.jpeg)
Awesome Mike... I love the brief outline!
I keep a similar "Cliff Notes" version of steps next to my workbench since I work so sporadically.
Santa gave me this kit....
I will be lurking to learn from one of our forum Jedi's.
I use a sponge to dab on the paint, is there much difference using a terry cloth? I'll have to give that a try....
yes, coming along nicely! I have never tried the terry cloth for sponging paint, I use a piece of grout sponge that i cut so i can have an "edge" to get into the clapboard. I'm going to try the cloth method to see if there is any difference,,,,
Love the peeling paint look.
Thanks Bobby, Bob, and Curt-
I also have used pieces of kitchen sponge to achieve peeling paint, and the results are indeed similar. I had used the terry cloth many years ago building one of Brett's SWSM kits. The terry cloth is more uneven and random, and is a nice change of pace. I also recently have used the primer (or A/I), mineral spirits, brush on acrylic evenly, and then after a few minutes dab with masking tape method. It will pull up splotches of the acrylic to leave some nice peeling paint. This works best on individual boards before you make your board-on-board wall. Don't know who did this first- I learned from Brett.
There are several others using rubber cement, Frisket, etc. All I know is I love peeling paint, and since I model early 1930's there are no new buildings, and the existing ones can't afford much-needed paint.
Another project that should be done while the walls are flat, and I prefer to do before they are braced, is to apply all the signs. Especially my favorite types, stencil signs. Bar Mills includes a dandy for "Sal Manilla Egg Wholesaler. This one is great because it is white shaded by black, and Artie suggests using a piece of masking tape horizontally across the top of the stencil that becomes a hinge, in addition to keeping it in place.
This allows lifting up the stencil occasionally to make sure you are covering all the letters completely- and a check to make sure you haven't applied too much so that it runs. Also, I should have mentioned that it is a good idea to make some very light pencil marks to indicate on your bare walls where this and other signs will go before you start detailing lifted boards, etc.
When positioning the first or white layer make sure spacing will allow the second or black layer to fit. After the white goes down the stencil is moved to the right about 1/16". The key to making this a neat job is using acrylics not thinned, and using a stiff bristled brush (I think actually called a stencil brush) round about 1/4" in diameter. Get most of the paint off and dab the paint on with the brush held vertically. Occasionally lift the bottom of the stencil sheet up very carefully to see how you are doing. It doesn't hurt to push down gently on the outside of the letter you are painting with the fingers of your non-brush hand.
I actually practiced on some scrap siding with the white color before I did my sign. The key is the "dry brushing"- many years ago I screwed up a wall when too thin paint leeched out under a stencil and made the letters illegible.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-190118002545-27581216.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-190118002545-27581216.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-190118002544-27373446.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-190118002544-27373446.jpeg)
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Mike
It's looking great!
Very nice.
Nice job so far Mike. I was tempted to pick this up at the Altoona Expo, but didn't. I'll be following along.
Quote from: Mike Engler on January 16, 2018, 03:45:50 PM
WALLS for wooden structures. (this one clapboard siding)
1. Apply grain using wire scratch brushes, card file, and X-acto #11 blade
2. Nail holes, using smallest pounce wheel. I use 3' centers- less looks hokey to me. If they are too
small to see it's OK as you probably wouldn't see them on the prototype either.
3. Cut some board joints at the nail hole lines
4. Pry up a few boards with a chisel blade. DO NOT OVERDO
5. Spray very light primer coat with cheap rattle-can (gray or tan) and dry for a day
6. Dab on finish color lightly using dry-brush technique, apply with pieces of NEW terry cloth
7. Weather with some A/I in places. This can also be done before finish coat applied.
8. Apply signs, stencils.
9. Apply interior bracing. Artie supplies 5/32" sq. You can't overbrace but be mindful of adjoining walls.
10. Spray back of walls black- if no interior this will prevent looking in windows and seeing bracing etc.
11. Paint and apply corner posts.
12. Apply windows and doors. Separate check list on prepping and painting them.
13. Touch up your peeling paint with #11 blade- do final weathering
Some prefer to brace before any painting. Some install windows after walls are together. There are many ways to do all of things, and most will work. I prefer to do as much decorating and detailing of the walls while they are flat on the workbench.
Mike,
Which rattle can gray do you use? So many vendors and colors, some kinda blue-ish, etc. Seems like there might be good choices and bad choices.
Cheers,
Vince
Mike,
The sign came out great. Beautiful work sir. Love the wall colors also.
Tom ;D
Mike,
Your the master with the stencils. Looks very nice
Thanks for the kind words- good to know you folks approve.
Vince, I tend to buy whatever is cheap and handy regarding the primer. Rustoleum has a gray automobile primer I like, Krylon Camo gray if I have a coupon, Duplicolor Primer Sealer, and the cheapest from Sam's Club- their ColorPlace fast dry Spray Paint #20010 Equipment Gray Primer. I don't worry too much about the gray shade as most of it gets covered up. Always spray a little on some scrap, and if you don't like it take it back next time you go to that store.
Mark P- if you still want to get one of these Artie is still making them to order, and is taking orders until the end of this month. And if you are going to Springfield, the word is that he will have a few of them there as well. If I was a speculator.........
The walls look fantastic! Great job on the stenciling👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Mike,
Thanks for the explanation for how you painted the stenciled sign. Yours looks great!
Mike, you have a follower.
Thanks for the comments- I'm glad you liked the stencil sign. They are fun, I'll have to try my own using the cut out alphabet sets you can get at the art store. They probably come with a guide for spacing, etc. A trip to Dick Blick is in my future.
I'm pretty much done with the walls including weathering and detailing. As you can see there are a lot of them- there are also close-ups of a couple of them where you can see my mistakes and count my rivets. There is also the tiny cupola in the last photo. Dustin used to call work like that "fussy". Where is Dustin? Probably doing Daddy stuff.
I've been making the roof panels using Bar Mills famous "rolled roofing" tarpaper, so we'll discuss that next time. Also I hope I can put some of these walls together and get them level and straight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-240118175009-281071048.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-240118175009-281071048.jpeg)
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Mike,
Looking good sir ! Wish that everything here would look fantastic like all of your builds do...Will have to attend one of your clinics this year !
Tommy
Mike,
The walls look great! And, that cupola is definitely "fussy" work.
Walls turned out nice, especially the stenciled sign.
Jeff
Great weathering job.
shoot !
directions should have told you to trim that vent hole with 2x6...just checked mine...forgot it...sorry..
Nice colour scheme, Mike - it really has come up a treat!
Cheers, Mark.
Looks great. I am anxious to see how you keep everything aligned and square as you put the walls together on that irregularly-shaped outline.
Vince
Nice weathering Mike. Looks like you still have it when it comes to doing the correct weathering.
Jerry
Hey Mike:
WOW!!!!! Looks really cool so far. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
Mike....Outstanding...love the weathering....
Just found the forum and registered. I'm excited to follow this thread as I just placed an order for this kit last evening. Haven't tackled a large craftsman kit since Builder's In Scale Waterfront many years ago and am following and making notes for when the kit arrives.
Quote from: Opa George on January 25, 2018, 07:50:13 PM
Just found the forum and registered. I'm excited to follow this thread as I just placed an order for this kit last evening. Haven't tackled a large craftsman kit since Builder's In Scale Waterfront many years ago and am following and making notes for when the kit arrives.
Welcome to the forum. Consider doing a build thread on you first build in many years. Your watching one of the best on this thread.
Excellent weathering on the building Mike. I'll be at the Springfield show and will make a stop at Artie's. Let's see if I pull the trigger this time.
Welcome to new and old friends. Thanks for your interest and spending some time here, and for the kind comments.
Jim Mooney offered this a couple of days ago:Quote from: JimMooney on January 24, 2018, 07:44:44 PM
shoot !
directions should have told you to trim that vent hole with 2x6...just checked mine...forgot it...sorry..
So I looked at the vent at each end of the cupola and agreed they do need outlining, and I can fix that! Here is where a good idea went bad. The first photo shows what happened when I removed the vent, and then lined the vent hole with 2x6's. I forgot that the vent would not fit into the smaller opening with the added stripwood. So I trimmed the vent to fit, and the result looked awful. Plus I wrecked the trimmed down vent.
The entire cupola is very small, and the photos show it resting on a 1" diameter bottle cap- my monitor shows it about 6X and shows a lot of modeling and decorating sins. I decided to remove what was left of the vent, and the stripwood, and make some frames for the vent openings. I used the wonderful drawings contained in the kit to make the frames, and applied them to both openings. I also borrowed one of the vents from another building in this kit- T.J. Reillys. (Hint- maybe I can get Jim to put in a good word for me to get a replacement vent?)
The last photo shows how they turned out, and I think it works. I'll comment more on the instructions later, but believe me when I say the plans and drawings are incredible and there a lot of them. Views from every direction, exploded view, 3D, and some great color photos with many more on the website. I think Jim Mooney designed this kit and it is a great job. I think I could build it with just the drawings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118113939-28308665.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118113939-28308665.jpeg)(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118114343-28310172.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118114343-28310172.jpeg)(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118114343-28311285.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118114343-28311285.jpeg)
Mike,
The vent looks much better to me now that you have framed the opening. Great recovery!
Enjoying the thread!👍🏻
Mike, Your build is coming along nice. When I 1st saw the add from Bar Mills I new I had seen the middle building with the water tank before (if it was not the same it sure was close).
I went back through my notes & there it was back in 2007. Over on the Railroad Line Forums Karl Osolinski on 1/28/2007 started a scratch build of what he call The Building of Sellios Avenue.
It took Karl "O" a few years to complete the build (6/2/2009) . When you start building that building you might want to take a look at what Karl did in the scratch build. As always with Karl O the workmanship is outstanding & well worth going down memory lane.
I am not saying Bar Mills copied Karl work I am saying the 2 structures look very close
Mike Sigmon
Mike
Your build is looking great. I just wrote on the box top of mine revisit Mike's thread for updates to the directions before building.
John, You just confirmed, you are a smart man. Great work Mike. What's new, right?
ed
Quote from: MASIGMON on January 27, 2018, 10:08:00 PM
Mike, Your build is coming along nice. When I 1st saw the add from Bar Mills I new I had seen the middle building with the water tank before (if it was not the same it sure was close).
I went back through my notes & there it was back in 2007. Over on the Railroad Line Forums Karl Osolinski on 1/28/2007 started a scratch build of what he call The Building of Sellios Avenue.
It took Karl "O" a few years to complete the build (6/2/2009) . When you start building that building you might want to take a look at what Karl did in the scratch build. As always with Karl O the workmanship is outstanding & well worth going down memory lane.
I am not saying Bar Mills copied Karl work I am saying the 2 structures look very close
Mike Sigmon
Hi Mike,
I know I'm slow but the Sellios Avenue I built didn't take 2 years to build. I started it on January 28, 2007, and finished it on May 19, 2007. Mario revived the thread on June 1, 2009 asking me for some dimensions on the structures I did for the scene.
Karl O
Berkley, MI
George ....
Welcome aboard.
See ya
Bob
Thanks all of you for commenting. Mike, we'll take a look at that one. I remember Sellios Ave.- and the builder just posted!
Hey Karl- really great to hear from you and it would be an honor for you to post a pic or three of Sellios Ave. right here. For all of you tuned in Karl is a legend and one of the very best modelers I have ever known. Let's hope he will favor us with some photos of his work, or maybe even a build thread.
Haven't posted progress in a few days and there has been some, but I'm having computer problems and am using a back-up. I've documented the problem in a thread started a couple of days ago by Bob Parrish on 'Baggage Car'.
Thanks for all of your comments. Karl Osolinski sent me a few pics of his Selios Ave. build and hopefully he will let me post them when I start the second building of this kit. I guarantee mine won't be up to his standard.
The foundation on Sal Manilla's has a base of several pieces of die-cut basswood that is then covered with four pieces of styrene castings of stone walls. Here is what it looks like:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218122437-287592151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218122437-287592151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218122425-28758612.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218122425-28758612.jpeg)Well that was not what I had in mind- giant photo! I'll try again when I either get my old Mac back (or a new one!) or learn to use this one. Thanks Jim- Lenny is the go-to guy!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218122425-28758612.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218122425-28758612.jpeg)
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Just saw your fix.. :D
if you want replacement parts call Art (yeah right....!) I mean Lenny and ask him to send you what you need
maybe 1x4 trim might work better anyway...
Thanks Jim. You must have gone to Springfield- PSSD, Post Springfield Stress Syndrome.
I'll try another foundation build photo:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218121544.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218121544.jpeg)
Sorry worse.
Hi Mike:
Foundation looks great. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
I got my MacBook Pro back today after the Genius at the Apple Store raised it from the dead. I'll catch up in the next few days- humor me if I repeat any photos.
I mentioned the roofing- all three roofs here have vertically applied rolled roofing. Bar mills has white sheets of die-cut strips 3 ft. wide. The strips have an adhesive that is under a paper backing, similar to transfer adhesive. I sprayed a light gray primer before removing the strips, and then an even lighter Camo flat black. I drew vertical lines 1/4 inch wide on the cardstock roofs, and then applied the strips with about a 1/16 inch overlap.
Then I sanded very lightly to highlight the seams and weather the roof. I then dry brushed some highlights with brown and rust shades, and used some pastel chalks to do some vertical streaks. The roof panels were completely done on the bench and were essentially the last things to go on the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118113939-283071202.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270118113939-283071202.jpeg)
Great progress...glad your Googlizer is back.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This is a little out of sequence- when I built the foundation I made the frame from the die-cut pieces, mitre-cut the styrene stone wall sides, and rattle can sprayed with primer gray the sides. I then did some practice colors on the styrene scraps, using craft acrylic Burnt Sienna, Light Orange, Reefer Orange, and the one I chose was Vallejo Model Color Light Brown. Then washed with A/I, and touched up a few stones with slightly contrasting colors. I also dulled a few stones with some pastel chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218170849.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-010218170849.jpeg)
Hey Mike:
She's looking good. Keep up your usual fine work.
karl
Wow , the bottom one of the brick samples looks superb.
Thanks Karl and Jan. The bottom sample is the one I picked Janbouli- it looks pretty good. Next I put the walls together, and place the building on the foundation. Then glue the three roof pieces in place. Since all of the building, detailing, and weathering are done this should not take long if I've squared everything up properly.
Mike,
I agree with Jan and Karl, it's looking wonderful. I too like the bottom sample.
Tom ;D
Beautiful stonework work.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 05, 2018, 06:21:56 PM
Beautiful stonework work.
That beautiful stonework work works for me .... ;D
The stonework really does look great Mike. I'm partial to the 2nd sample from the bottom, with the bottom sample a close second.
Thanks all. I am really happy how the color of the beautiful foundation castings turned out. It does need light as I found out when the walls were put together.
So it was time to see if these walls are flat and square. I joined the first two using my trendy, state-of-the-art,
and high tech tools. Here is where the canopy glue shines as it sets up so quickly. I can virtually hold these in place around the squares and weights for a minute or two and they are solid! When I started doing these many years ago, Brett Gallant told me the first thing he looks at when he evaluates modeling quality of structures is the corners. Square, flat, perfectly aligned and joined. If not, break them apart and do it again.
Here are the first two, and then two more. So far so good! Check your drawings as to which walls should be adjacent as it is possible to adjoin them incorrectly. Ask me how I know- I almost did. And take a look at the diecut slots where rafter ends will go at the top of the walls. A tip coming later when we get to them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-080218234527.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-080218234527.jpeg)
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Looks good Mike. Keep these updates coming.
Jerry
Nice work Mike--- I need to get one of those plastic squares-- thanks for posting, I'm always learning something from these build threads!
Hi Mike:
It's coming along nicely. Keep the great photos coming.
Karl
Is it just me or are there pictures missing from this thread ?
T.C.
Quote from: T.C. on February 09, 2018, 08:08:31 AM
Is it just me or are there pictures missing from this thread ?
T.C.
It may be your browser, every once in a while I cannot see the pictures in one or more threads unless I switch browsers. Then, a day or two later, everything works fine.
Mike,
This is coming along nicely, I'm enjoying following along. Thanks for taking the time to post.
I switched over to Firefox and it doesn't show the missing pictures either ?
I really enjoy Mikes build threads but I cant reconfigure my computer and take a chance of messing it up trying to view the pictures in this thread.
FYI, I have had no problem viewing anything on this site until now, not blaming anyone just thought maybe others had the same problem and there was a fix for it ?
Thanks T.C.
Thanks for your well-wishes. Sorry for the confusion T.C. There were a couple of photos missing but it is because I deleted them. During my computer meltdown I tried to post some photos with my phone with minimal success. I have resized and reposted since and you aren't missing anything. Actually there is one classic missing and I can't find it anywhere. I'm sure it will turn up someday.
I have the walls together and the roof panels on. Many details to add (rafter tails, vents, stacks, roof trim, etc.)
but everything fits, is square, and perfectly flat, and I am proud of the corners.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110218140734-295982384.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110218140734-295982384.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110218140734-296472006.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110218140734-296472006.jpeg)
Quote from: Mike Engler on February 11, 2018, 02:11:36 PM
Thanks for your well-wishes. Sorry for the confusion T.C. There were a couple of photos missing but it is because I deleted them. During my computer meltdown I tried to post some photos with my phone with minimal success. I have resized and reposted since and you aren't missing anything. Actually there is one classic missing and I can't find it anywhere. I'm sure it will turn up someday.
I have the walls together and the roof panels on. Many details to add (rafter tails, vents, stacks, roof trim, etc.)
but everything fits, is square, and perfectly flat, and I am proud of the corners.
Looks fantastic, Mike. That stonework really provides a nice accent to the whole structure.
Cheers,
Vince
Beautiful modeling.
Hey Mike:
WOW!!!! Looking just beautiful. Like the colors and light weathering.
Karl
Yep!!
Looks great, Mike.
The colours have worked out very nicely, and, as said, the foundation adds a nice bit of interest.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: T.C. on February 10, 2018, 10:16:44 AM
I switched over to Firefox and it doesn't show the missing pictures either ?
I really enjoy Mikes build threads but I cant reconfigure my computer and take a chance of messing it up trying to view the pictures in this thread.
FYI, I have had no problem viewing anything on this site until now, not blaming anyone just thought maybe others had the same problem and there was a fix for it ?
Thanks T.C.
T.C.
It's not your computer or browser or the forum. Mike had the pictures tied to a source on his computer, which he lost do to a computer problem. We all see ? marks where some of the pictures used to be on the first few pages of this thread. The comments that you see are from when the pictures were available.
Mike
The build looks great - I'm glad you got your computer working again.
Great Mike! I'm (quietly) enjoying the thread. Beautiful wall coloring and weathering, as always. I'm always learning something...also, kudos to Bar Mills for elevating their larger kits. Always love their offerings and they seem to be raising their own bar lately.
John
Thanks for clearing that up for me, I thought I was missing out .
Just like everyone I "really love those pictures" !
T.C.
Great build Mike , lots of great detailing tips including the checklists? I have several machinist squares but none that are flat sitting, glad I seen your Zona, just ordered a couple.
Photos will help as I have started building this kit..... Thanks Mike
Welcome aboard....Mario
Tell us about yourself.
See ya
Bob
Quote from: Mario Rapinett on March 27, 2018, 06:55:40 AM
Photos will help as I have started building this kit..... Thanks Mike
Mario
Welcome to the forum!
Hey Mario:
Glad to have you here.
Karl
Quote from: bparrish on March 27, 2018, 08:36:19 PM
Welcome aboard....Mario
Tell us about yourself.
See ya
Bob
Bob,
Here's a link to Mario's website. Lots of awesome modeling here.
http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_miniatures_2017.html
Good morning from Australia. I found this site when i was looking for info on the FSM Tribute Kit build. I have started my kit and decided to do it a little different...
I will have to learn how to post photos here or start a new thread....I tend to use my Facebook page, as it so easy to post photos....
cheers
Mario
PS... a few of my old projects...
http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_mario_miniatures.html
Hi Mario buddy, welcome aboard.
Mario,
Welcome to the forum. I've always admired your work and dioramas.
Tom ;D