CCK's Groovy Jeff has a new kit out. It's an old board and batten rural post office.
As a boy, when visiting my mother's relatives in Vandalia, IL., we used to go to a grocery store like this to buy candy. For a quarter we could get a bag of candy that would last a week.
The store in Vandalia was a rural grocery store with a counter and sign stating "Post Office". Behind the counter were open post boxes for about 20 people. It was like Mr. Godsey's rural grocery store on the Waltons.
I'm going to make this a rural country store that doubles as a post office. Of course, I'll have to add my own touch to the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010218174349.jpeg)
I emptied the contents on the work bench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010218174400.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010218174414.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010218174414.jpeg)
I test fit the doors and windows and all were a nice tight fit.
I'll remove the battens around the doors and windows so they fit flush against the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010218174426.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010218174426.jpeg)
Looks like I forgot to fit in one door but I do have it.
Tom,
I Love this Kit! Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on February 01, 2018, 05:59:25 PM
Tom,
I Love this Kit! Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Yepper, me too. Lots of possibilities for this one.
Tom
...
Looking like a great build.
I'm in , nice little kit
Tom,
I'm on board for this. Looks like a build thread enriched by memories. I do wonder though, do you ever leave your man cave? Sleep?
I will be also watching. You are really on a roll my friend - keep up the good work.
I will be watching this with my one good eye.
Jim
Tom,
Day late however I am on board for this build
Love those old backwoods structures
Mike
This one looks like it'll be right at home on the A&S! :) I'll be following along as well.
I like the structure Tom.....nice addition for the 2nd level. 8) I'll be watching.
Rats! I wasn't going to get another kit, but this one has my interest and I don't have a post office for the layout! It's KC's right? Does anyone have his web site. Jim
OK. senior moment it's Jeff's kit.
...here's the prototype of the kit inspiration....located in heavily rural Penland NC....there is an O scale version of this one coming too....
Quote from: jlgrove on February 02, 2018, 11:44:03 AM
...here's the prototype of the kit inspiration....located in heavily rural Penland NC....there is an O scale version of this one coming too....
You know what to do Jeff.....!!!
(I don't have to spell it out, do I?)
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fd/1999_Obverse_Proof.png/220px-1999_Obverse_Proof.png)
I've got my quarter's worth of candy, so I'm ready to follow along.
Quote from: Donato on February 02, 2018, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: jlgrove on February 02, 2018, 11:44:03 AM
...here's the prototype of the kit inspiration....located in heavily rural Penland NC....there is an O scale version of this one coming too....
You know what to do Jeff.....!!!
(I don't have to spell it out, do I?)
...yes D...I know the routine....lol
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 01, 2018, 06:54:27 PM
. I do wonder though, do you ever leave your man cave? Sleep?
Remember the Diet Pepsi stops?
I'll be following along as well.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 01, 2018, 06:18:19 PM
Looking like a great build.
Curt,
Thanks for checking in. This is really going to be fun. I'm making a few changes to what I remember as a kid. Heck, I'm still and da** kid! :P
Tom ;D
Quote from: Janbouli on February 01, 2018, 06:24:48 PM
I'm in , nice little kit
Jan,
Thanks, I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 01, 2018, 06:54:27 PM
Tom,
I'm on board for this. Looks like a build thread enriched by memories. I do wonder though, do you ever leave your man cave? Sleep?
Jerry,
I'm happy you are following along on yet anther of my adventures.
Yes, I do sleep but I'm in the man cave 8-12 hours every day. My wife, er, Babe, must really love me. Oh wait, she may really want me out here 8-12 hours a day. Hmmm, food for thought.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 01, 2018, 06:56:50 PM
I will be also watching. You are really on a roll my friend - keep up the good work.
John,
I appreciate you following as well. I'm on a building roll and can't stop.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 01, 2018, 07:34:01 PM
I will be watching this with my one good eye.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks Butty, one eye is better than none. The Judge and I will call you tomorrow morning. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: MASIGMON on February 02, 2018, 07:42:09 AM
Tom,
Day late however I am on board for this build
Love those old backwoods structures
Mike
Mike,
Thanks for following. This will be a neat addition to the A&S RR. Buildings like this were all over the south but became few in the mid to late 60's.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 02, 2018, 07:51:53 AM
This one looks like it'll be right at home on the A&S! :) I'll be following along as well.
Bob,
Thanks, I agree this is perfect for the A&S. I already have real estate set aside for it.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 02, 2018, 08:32:31 AM
I like the structure Tom.....nice addition for the 2nd level. 8) I'll be watching.
Greg,
This is a great addition for the south side of Tahope. In this case, the other side of the river. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: jrmueller on February 02, 2018, 09:47:02 AM
Rats! I wasn't going to get another kit, but this one has my interest and I don't have a post office for the layout! It's KC's right? Does anyone have his web site. Jim
Jim,
This is the perfect kit for anything from the 1870's and up. You answered your question below so I'll leave it here.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jlgrove on February 02, 2018, 11:44:03 AM
...here's the prototype of the kit inspiration....located in heavily rural Penland NC....there is an O scale version of this one coming too....
Jeff,
As I said from the start, this is a great kit. Okay, you have a winner in this one, I love the backwoods look.
Thanks for posting the photo of the original.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on February 02, 2018, 12:47:32 PM
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fd/1999_Obverse_Proof.png/220px-1999_Obverse_Proof.png) (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fd/1999_Obverse_Proof.png/220px-1999_Obverse_Proof.png)
I've got my quarter's worth of candy, so I'm ready to follow along.
Donato,
Grab another hand full of candy and stay tuned. Your Dentist will love me for it!
Tom ;D
I enlarged Jeff's photo of the original Penland, NC. Post Office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218173425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218173425.jpeg)
After some time spent studying the photo, I made a some observations.
1. The two large windows on the front are recessed into the wall whereas the square one on the right is about flush with the wall.
If I were scratch building the structure, I'd recess the windows as well. However, the Tichy windows will look normal as well.
2. Also, I noticed a horizontal board at the lower portion of the peaked roof just above the Coca-Cola sign.
If you look closely, you'll see the board is cut in and flush with the wall and not on top of the battens.
I like this feature on the post office. It gives it more character.
3. The screen doors on the front are framed and are set outside the door frame vs. inside the door frame. More on this later in the thread.
4. There is also what appears to be either a 1X10 or 1X12 horizontal skirt on the bottom of the two visible walls.
Notice it only appears on the front above the porch or deck. It is not on the left of the front porch area.
I like this feature as well so you know what I'll be doing.
More in a few.
I used a square and made sure the top of the square was level across the battens.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172457.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172457.jpeg)
I then drew a pencil line across the top of the square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172509.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172509.jpeg)
More in a few.
I'm along, too. Love me some CCK. 👊🏻
I took a scale 3x3 and lay it along the pencil line. I drew a second line above the scale 3x3.
I then used a new/sharp #11 blade and cut on both lines. I then removed the battens between the cut lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172521.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172521.jpeg)
I then very carefully glued the 3x3 next to the wall as shown below. I say carefully as I didn't want to get any glue on the exposed wood that will affect the stains and paints later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172610.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172610.jpeg)
More in a few.
Quote from: Dave K. on February 02, 2018, 06:02:28 PM
I'm along, too. Love me some CCK. 👊🏻
Dave,
Thanks, this one is a neat kit and will be great for the A&S RR.
Tom ;D
Jeff included in the kit some screen doors. They are very fragile and I broke one getting it out. It will be fine though when I'm finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172622.jpeg)
In the next photo I only have the screen door frames on top of the Tichy doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172636.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172636.jpeg)
I'm going to try and frame these on the front of the Tichy doors. I'll get to that later in the build.
More in a few.
I went kinda crazy with the bracing so bear with me for a while.
There is a sheet showing suggested locations for the bracing but as I said I went a little crazy.
The bracing included in the kit is 1/8" square. I decided to take my bracing all the way across the bottom and top of the peaked walls.
However, the 1/8" bracing wouldn't fit across the top without some modifications. I opted to use HO scale 10X10's for the top and the 1/8" on the bottoms.
By placing the 10 X 10's even with the top of the large window, the 10 X 10 brace fit just below the slopped end of the roof and no cutting is necessary for it to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172649.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172649.jpeg)
More in a few.
Over the years, I've glued bracing two different ways.
I've applied glue to the walls and then added the bracing and I've added glue to the braces and then placed them on the walls. Either way will work but I though I'd mention the two anyway.
On this build, I did both.
I added glue to the 1/8" brace but not to the area shown in red below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172702.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172702.jpeg)
I then placed the 1/8" brace on the wall. I did the same for the opposing peaked wall section.
I then placed the two walls on top of each other making sure the 1/8" brace was over on the 10 X 10's. This way they were flat and weights were added until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172757.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172757.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172812.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172812.jpeg)
More in a few.
Notice I glued the 1/8" brace across the door openings. I didn't want to cut the brace and chance weakening the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172727.jpeg)
Not to worry. The doors still fit into the openings with no interference from the brace.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172744.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172744.jpeg)
More in a few.
I forgot to mention when bracing the walls. I placed the wall against a piece of straight metal and added the brace. I then pushed the wall and brace against the straight edge.
This gives me a flush brace at the bottom of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172838.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172838.jpeg)
The next photo shows the side walls braced.
Notice the top brace on the high side wall goes all the way across the top?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172905.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172905.jpeg)
More in a few.
I planned ahead to get the maximum bracing on the building as I do live in the muggy south.
The next photo shows the bracing at the bottom portion of the walls on the slopped end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172824.jpeg)
The next photo shows the bracing at the peaked end of the walls. Notice now why I made the peaked end, actually the high side wall brace go to both edges, maximum gluing areas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172850.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172850.jpeg)
I'll have more to report on Monday.
Ordered mine tonight. Jim
You're doing a great job with this build Tom. Thanks for the detailed "how to" with the bracing. And I'm liking the added detail/mods you're doing to the kit to make it more like the prototype.
Tom,
Looks good. I really like the way you modify a kit to give it your own unique touch.
Quote from: jrmueller on February 02, 2018, 07:35:06 PM
Ordered mine tonight. Jim
Jim,
You won't be disappointed. This is a great new item from the many available from CCK.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on February 03, 2018, 06:13:07 AM
You're doing a great job with this build Tom. Thanks for the detailed "how to" with the bracing. And I'm liking the added detail/mods you're doing to the kit to make it more like the prototype.
Mark,
Thank you, much appreciated. I can't seem to build something without changing it. The basic structure will remain the same though.
I'll have more to show tomorrow afternoon or Monday at the latest.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 03, 2018, 07:16:15 AM
Tom,
Looks good. I really like the way you modify a kit to give it your own unique touch.
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciated. I love to take a kit and put my own touch to it so it doesn't look like the other 300 sold kits.
Tom ;D
Tom
Another great build. Thank you for taking the time to explaining the details - it really adds to the usefulness of these build threads.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 03, 2018, 06:50:47 PM
Tom
Another great build. Thank you for taking the time to explaining the details - it really adds to the usefulness of these build threads.
John,
Thank you. I appreciate you following the build thread.
Tom ;D
One of the things I do when building new kits for Jeff, Kenny or Jimmy is to see if any improvements can be made. Also, I check to see if something doesn't fit or work as indicated in the directions.
At this time I find nothing wrong with this kit or the instructions. It is all fitting together as planned.
Now, that said, I do not consider the changes I make to a kit as part of the original build. I offer these as my way of changing, not necessarily improving, the kit. Just saying.
I did decide to add the bottom board as shown in the original photo. I made the decision to carry, for lack of another word - the skirt, along the bottom of all four walls.
I tried 1 X 12's, 1 X 10's and 1 X 8's for the bottom skirt. The 1 X 8 was to small and the 1 X 12 was too big/high. The 1 X 10 seemed to be the correct size but the 1X wasn't thick enough.
I opted to use 2 X 10's as the bottom board as this brought the bottom board out just past the battens.
I measured the bottom for the 2 X 10 and used a metal straight edge to mark the line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182331.jpeg)
I then used a new #11 blade using the metal straight edge as a guide and cut through the battens. The battens were removed.
The area was then sanded smooth with the Emory Board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182343.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182343.jpeg)
More in a few.
I've seen board and batten wall kits with the use of corner trim, ie, 4x4's. I personally don't like the look. Nothing wrong in using them, it is just personal preference.
If you desire to use the 4X4 corner trim, Jeff does include them for your use.
If you decide not to use them, then the ends of the walls will need to have the laser burn edges smoothed.
In the photo below, you can see the edge of the wall in brown. If painting the post office a dark, no problem. I still suggest you sand the burn edge off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182406.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182406.jpeg)
I plan on painting my building all white and the brown will not give the building a uniform look if left brown.
In the next photo, you can see I've sanded the edge and removed the laser burn. The laser cuts at an angle and the very slight bevel on the edge is referred to as a "kerf". You definitely want to remove the kerf if using the corner trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182420.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182420.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182354.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182354.jpeg)
Removing the "kerf" gives you a very nice and square gluing surface for the walls and the walls will fit flush against each other as well. Again, refer to the photos above.
More in a few.
When, adding the bottom trim boards, I wanted to make sure they fit snug against the door frames.
I replaced the door in the wall opening as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182432.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182432.jpeg)
I then glued the 2x10 to that short section of the wall bottom making sure it was snug against the right edge of the door.
I repeated the same process for the left side of the door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182456.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182456.jpeg)
More in a few.
I added the bottom boards to the other three walls.
On the peaked walls, I cut the bottom board/skirt flush with the ends of the walls.
On the side walls, I left a little on each side to be cut flush with the peaked walls when assembled.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182509.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182509.jpeg)
More in a few. Diet Pepsi time.
The area was then sanded smooth with the Emory Board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182343.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182343.jpeg)
ACL 1504,
Since no one here can teach you how to be a better modeler, perhaps you might consider using that Emory board on your nails after you're done with the walls. Just sayin'. KP-out...
All walls are now braced and also have the bottom skirt board glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040218130151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040218130151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040218130347.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040218130347.jpeg)
More later in the week.
Quote from: tct855 on February 04, 2018, 01:46:26 PM
The area was then sanded smooth with the Emory Board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182343.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030218182343.jpeg)
ACL 1504,
Since no one here can teach you how to be a better modeler, perhaps you might consider using that Emory board on your nails after you're done with the walls. Just sayin'. KP-out...
Thom,
My nails are just fine thank you!
Just sayin back at ya bro!
Tom ;D
Be proud brother, be proud... ;D ✋
Great work Tom.
Tom,
Looks good. I admire how well documented you make your build threads, and how many little tips are included in them.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 02, 2018, 06:12:22 PM
Jeff included in the kit some screen doors. They are very fragile and I broke one getting it out. It will be fine though when I'm finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172622.jpeg)
In the next photo I only have the screen door frames on top of the Tichy doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172636.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218172636.jpeg)
I'm going to try and frame these on the front of the Tichy doors. I'll get to that later in the build.
More in a few.
...since getting HO scale screen material readily available is rather difficult to do (if anyone has any availabilty suggestions please let me know...) we are NOT including these screen doors in the kits....but if you contact us we will send you the screen doors FREE....it'll be up to you to get the HO screen material.....
The
400 Mesh T304 Stainless .0010 48" Wide (https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/stainless-steel/400-mesh-woven-stainless-0010) product
on this page https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/stainless-steel (https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/stainless-steel) it's near the bottom of the page
is pretty good for screen wire. It's a bit opaque, but it's hard to get screen to "scale down".
Jeff
This is what I've been using for screen material. It comes from Joan's Fabrics.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160655.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160655.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160708.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160708.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160721.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160733.jpeg)
Prior to painting the walls, I've been experimenting with thinned paints and washes.
I applied a coat of Hunterline Creosote Black and let dry. I then applied the white wash.
Here is a sample of a "white" wash. This is Floquil's White Flo Stain, one coat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060218181701.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060218181701.jpeg)
The next sample is Floquil Reefer White thinned with thinner and brushed on the the left wall. No A&I under the white.
The sample on the right is the same as the first photo but now has two coats of the White Flo Stain wash.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060218181714.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060218181714.jpeg)
I'm looking for a finish that says this building was once white but hasn't been painted in 30 years.
Opinions?
ACL 1504,
T~, excellent build my brother. I love those screen doors! They remind me of the ones I used to have on my Revell WWII submarine (before it sank for some unknown reason). KP-out...
The right side says that. Is there a way to bubble the paint?
Tom,
Is this close to the look you are going for? I gave this piece of scrap a thin coat of my light A/I solution. Then I dry brushed multiple coats of full strength white acrylic craft paint until I got the white paint thick enough to cover, but still translucent. HTH.
Quote from: tct855 on February 06, 2018, 06:57:40 PM
ACL 1504,
T~, excellent build my brother. I love those screen doors! They remind me of the ones I used to have on my Revell WWII submarine (before it sank for some unknown reason). KP-out...
Thom,
Thank you. The screen door will be a nice addition to the building. I'm gong to build a frame around them and then attach them to the doors.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 06, 2018, 07:34:52 PM
The right side says that. Is there a way to bubble the paint?
Curt,
Thanks, the right side is close but not the effect I'm looking for. Not sure about how to bubble the paint.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 06, 2018, 08:02:33 PM
Tom,
Is this close to the look you are going for? I gave this piece of scrap a thin coat of my light A/I solution. Then I dry brushed multiple coats of full strength white acrylic craft paint until I got the white paint thick enough to cover, but still translucent. HTH.
Jerry,
That is close as well but too new looking. I think my first dark A&I changed the look. I'll try some new samples with lighter A&I undercoat and see what happens.
Tom ;D
Tom give this product a try. It dry brushes on easy and leaves a nice chalky finish....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HO03790/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HO03790/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Tom,
I have been doing a little experimenting. I'm glad you asked the question and got me thinking. I will definitely be using this technique on some of my structures in the future. The end result is very different from what I have done in the past.
So, FWIW... The gray board is an piece from one of my old barns. I keep it on my bench as a reference for weathered wood, at least how it looks in the Northeast. I took a piece of scrap stock and roughed it up with a wire brush to bring out the grain slightly. I gave it a quick coat of light A/I then I drybrushed some Ceramcoat mudstone and some Apple Barrel Country gray followed by a very light drybrushung of Apple Barrel Country tan. (Notice the country theme here?) I wanted to get the base color as close as possible to the weathered board. I then dry brushed on some Apple Barrel white, the places where the white is thicker were more dry dabbed than brushed.
After that I gave the sample in the first photo one coat of the light A/I mix.
The second photo shows the sample after a second coat of the light A/I mix.
I like the Annie Sloan chalk paints. Old White and Paris Grey (I also love Paris) are two favorites. One of my customers sells them.
So it is a nice way to reciprocate.
ed
Quote from: Donato on February 07, 2018, 11:42:06 AM
Tom give this product a try. It dry brushes on easy and leaves a nice chalky finish....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HO03790/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HO03790/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Donato,
Thanks for the information. I probably won't use it on this kit but I did order some to try later. Again, thanks for the tip.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 07, 2018, 12:01:02 PM
Tom,
I have been doing a little experimenting. I'm glad you asked the question and got me thinking. I will definitely be using this technique on some of my structures in the future. The end result is very different from what I have done in the past.
So, FWIW... The gray board is an piece from one of my old barns. I keep it on my bench as a reference for weathered wood, at least how it looks in the Northeast. I took a piece of scrap stock and roughed it up with a wire brush to bring out the grain slightly. I gave it a quick coat of light A/I then I drybrushed some Ceramcoat mudstone and some Apple Barrel Country gray followed by a very light drybrushung of Apple Barrel Country tan. (Notice the country theme here?) I wanted to get the base color as close as possible to the weathered board. I then dry brushed on some Apple Barrel white, the places where the white is thicker were more dry dabbed than brushed.
After that I gave the sample in the first photo one coat of the light A/I mix.
The second photo shows the sample after a second coat of the light A/I mix.
Jerry,
It's always good to get thinking on a project. Your two samples are closer to what I had in mind. I've been able to make white walls look old but I just don't seem to be able to take it to the next level of craftmanship in HO scale. I'll keep working on it. I'm trying the light gray A&I this afternoon. I'll report the results later in the thread.
I appreciate all the info and input from ya'll. Thanks very much.
Tom ;D
Quote from: engine909 on February 07, 2018, 12:10:42 PM
I like the Annie Sloan chalk paints. Old White and Paris Grey (I also love Paris) are two favorites. One of my customers sells them.
So it is a nice way to reciprocate.
ed
Ed,
I haven't heard of Annie Sloan chalk paints. I'll look and check them out. Thanks for the info.
Tom ;D
..thanks Tom and Dr. Jeff for the info on the thule materiail (scale screen wire)...I now have an ample supply in both HO & O scale to include in the kits.....but if you receive a kit with no screen doors, please contact me for FREE ones!!!....ou can get ALL your questions answered on this forum....
Quote from: jlgrove on February 07, 2018, 02:21:29 PM
..thanks Tom and Dr. Jeff for the info on the thule materiail (scale screen wire)...I now have an ample supply in both HO & O scale to include in the kits.....but if you receive a kit with no screen doors, please contact me for FREE ones!!!....ou can get ALL your questions answered on this forum....
Jeff,
Happy to hear you got all the stuff you needed. I've found the ribbon from Joan's Fabrics looks great for the screens. I can be weathered, cut and torn to look like an old screen.
Tom ;D
After much experimentation with the paint, washes and weathering, I finally got the look I was after.
I'm not sure I'll do it again. This one structure will do. Here are the two samples I came up with. But first this is what I did.
I spread some Floquil Reefer White on a piece of glass. I let it dry and CURE. I say CURE as if you don't let it cure, meaning hardened, it will revert back to paint when mixed with thinner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105233.jpeg)
I took a new #11 blade and made several passing across the dried and cured paint. I then scraped it in a pile. When in the pile I used a single edged razor blade and chopped it even more into almost a powder form.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105245.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105245.jpeg)
I then added it to the paint mix. My paint mix is 80% thinner to 20% reefer white.
More in a few.
Here are two samples of what it turned out to look like.
The first sample is one coat and the second photo is after two coats. Oh, yes, I used a very light A&I mix on the wood first and let it thoroughly dry prior to adding the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105206.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105206.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105219.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105219.jpeg)
I'm very pleased with the result on the second sample/photo.
More in a few.
If you don't chop up the dried paint or let it cure, this is what your wall will look like.
A totally different look for sure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105259.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105259.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back later.
Hi Tom,
this is a different way to do the peeling paint. I also like the second sample. Very nice.
Quote from: sdrees on February 08, 2018, 12:06:44 PM
Hi Tom,
this is a different way to do the peeling paint. I also like the second sample. Very nice.
Steve,
Thank you. I wanted to try something different and this is certainly different. I won't do it again. It wasn't hard, just very time consuming.
Tom ;D
Looks great, Tom!
What I really like about it is it tends to leave paint under the lap of the clapboards - where it is most protected from the elements and stays on the longest. The terry cloth method leaves paint in exactly the opposite places you find it in the real world - all the places that stick out the most. I'll keep this method in mind for my next clapboard adventure - still busy working on the barn at present - the birds have been evicted though!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 08, 2018, 05:11:14 PM
Looks great, Tom!
What I really like about it is it tends to leave paint under the lap of the clapboards - where it is most protected from the elements and stays on the longest. The terry cloth method leaves paint in exactly the opposite places you find it in the real world - all the places that stick out the most. I'll keep this method in mind for my next clapboard adventure - still busy working on the barn at present - the birds have been evicted though!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Thanks for checking in on the build. Although I tested this theory on clapboard, the same should be true for board and batten walls. I'll report on the B&B tomorrow.
Now, back to work on your barn. ;D ;D
Tom 8)
In reading Mark's comments, I forgot to mention one very important fact about the chipped paint in the paint method.
The paint needs to be constantly shaken to keep the tiny paint chips suspended in the paint. This is so the brush will pick some up in the bristles. Other wise they all settle to the bottom of the jar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105219.jpeg)
Tom, I know you know....
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi0.kym-cdn.com%2Fphotos%2Fimages%2Foriginal%2F000%2F424%2F652%2Ffc1.png&hash=6b37225013efe53f63adebe3289106cd19b35246)
Tom,
Definitely some of the most realistic aged and peeled paint I have seen. Most I see is out of scale IMO. Yours looks great!
Very, very well done! I likey the flakey.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 08, 2018, 03:16:54 PM
Quote from: sdrees on February 08, 2018, 12:06:44 PM
Hi Tom,
this is a different way to do the peeling paint. I also like the second sample. Very nice.
Steve,
Thank you. I wanted to try something different and this is certainly different. I won't do it again. It wasn't hard, just very time consuming.
Tom ;D
But Tom, sometimes that extra effort sure pays off as it did in this case
Quote from: Donato on February 08, 2018, 10:19:37 PM
Tom, I know you know....
Donato,
I certainly appreciate the inference, but honestly I'm just one of the guys.
Thanks for following my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 09, 2018, 09:20:50 AM
Tom,
Definitely some of the most realistic aged and peeled paint I have seen. Most I see is out of scale IMO. Yours looks great!
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciated. It took me a few days to come up with how to make it look like that. Time well spent some would say. Not sure I'll do it for all future pealing paint.
Again, thank you.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on February 09, 2018, 11:08:09 AM
Very, very well done! I likey the flakey.
Bob,
Your kind and generous compliment is most appreciated. I likey the flakey as well. This time something worked.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on February 09, 2018, 11:27:43 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 08, 2018, 03:16:54 PM
Quote from: sdrees on February 08, 2018, 12:06:44 PM
Hi Tom,
this is a different way to do the peeling paint. I also like the second sample. Very nice.
Steve,
Thank you. I wanted to try something different and this is certainly different. I won't do it again. It wasn't hard, just very time consuming.
Tom ;D
But Tom, sometimes that extra effort sure pays off as it did in this case
Steve,
Agreed. But not sure I'll do it for all pealed paint effects.
Tom ;D
Prior to painting the walls, I wanted to distress the walls some.
I started with a side wall in case it didn't turn out or I ruined it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105329.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105329.jpeg)
For the bottom skirting I used a wire brush and a metal straight edge. I brushed along the edge of the ruler.
When finished, it did the same on the walls only I brushed vertically along the boards and batten.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105341.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105341.jpeg)
No pictures as it doesn't show that well.
More in a few.
I was satisfied with the results so I did the other three walls.
I then applied a coat of Hunterline Light Gray to all four walls. I set them aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105341.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105341.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105631.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080218105631.jpeg)
More in a few.
When the A&I was dry, I applied the first coat of white paint to all walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153719.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153732.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153732.jpeg)
I set them aside to dry prior to adding the second coat of paint.
More in a few.
While the walls were drying, I moved on to the screen doors. As I mentioned earlier in the thread these doors are fragile. Jeff did a great job in the designing them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153744.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153744.jpeg)
As you can see from the photo below, the screen door is smaller in width than the door. The plastic door has a frame around it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153755.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153755.jpeg)
Well, it's Diet Pepsi time, back in a few minutes while I grab a cold one.
Ok, that's better.
I used scale 2x2's and framed the screen door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153807.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153807.jpeg)
I added the 2x2's to the top and each side but NOT the bottom. Fast forward and finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153822.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153822.jpeg)
More in a few.
The problem now is that the screen door sits to high/far from the wall and doesn't look natural or correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153848.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153848.jpeg)
More on this later this afternoon.
Jeff includes with the screen doors a small three bar portion that I only assumed could replace the small horizontal bar in the middle of the door.
This next photo shows that I cut out the center of the door and installed one of these three bar portions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153900.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153900.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I decided to try a little experimenting with the plastic door included in the kit.
I used a new #11 blade and cut the door from the frame. A couple of passes using moderate pressure and the door came out nice and clean.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153958.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153958.jpeg)
I put the door in the door opening and set the screen door on top. I did not use the plastic door frame in this test.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153943.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153943.jpeg)
As you can see in the photo above, the door alone is short so the frame is needed for it to look correct.
More in a few.
I put the door back in the frame and glued it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154052.jpeg)
I need to load and crop a new set of photos for this thread. I'll be back in about an hour or less.
I noticed when I had the door frame out of the wall door opening, the screen door fit flush against the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153913.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153913.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153929.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153929.jpeg)
This of course looked much better to me so I got to thinking. Yea, scary isn't it?
More in a few.
How would it look if I just cut the frame off the plastic door, set the door in the opening and placed the screen door on the wall?
I turned the plastic door up side down and using a new #11 blade, cut off the plastic frame from the rear.
I got a little careless with the door frame cutting in the next photo. Not to worry, it won't show.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154110.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154110.jpeg)
In the next photo, you can see the door is now set in between the wall and flush.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162719.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also forgot that between all the other stuff, I applied the second coat of white to the board and batten walls. It's okay but I think this method works best on clapboard walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154014.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154014.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154032.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218154032.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Here's a photo of the recessed plastic door without the frame and with the screen door on the wall.
This is a much better look for the building and the screen door is now flush with the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162735.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162735.jpeg)
I took some screen material and brushed on some Hunterline Light Gray and when dry added some Hunterline Medium Brown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162748.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162748.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162800.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162800.jpeg)
More in a few.
While the A&I was drying, I built the 2x2 frame around the double screen doors. These will fit over the double doors on the store portion of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162814.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162814.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162827.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162827.jpeg)
Nice and flush against the wall.
Continued in a few.
I glued the double door in and let it dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162841.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162841.jpeg)
I glued the single screen door frame to the screen material and when dry cut the screen around the outside edge of the door frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162858.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162858.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162911.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162911.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162924.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162924.jpeg)
More in a few more.
I then stained and painted the double screen doors and added Canopy Glue to the windows and doors. These were all set off to the side to dry until tomorrow.
Then I was looking at the front and rear walls and thought I'd add some exterior rafters. The original photo doesn't show any.
When these old buildings were built, the use of exterior rafters was an extra expense. The roof boards, probably 1 X's were just nailed perpendicular to the top of the interior rafters and extended out a foot to 18 inches.
This country store and post office needs exterior rafters. ;D ;D I used scale 2x6's for the rafters.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162936.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162936.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162949.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218162949.jpeg)
More in a few.
Front wall -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218163002.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218163002.jpeg)
Rear wall -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218163018.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218163018.jpeg)
Done for this fine day.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 09, 2018, 04:18:03 PM
The problem now is that the screen door sits to high/far from the wall and doesn't look natural or correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153848.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153848.jpeg)
More on this later this afternoon.
Jeff includes with the screen doors a small three bar portion that I only assumed could replace the small horizontal bar in the middle of the door.
This next photo shows that I cut out the center of the door and installed one of these three bar portions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153900.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090218153900.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
...that piece is the "push bar" that was normally mounted on the screen door about waist high, that took all the abuse of the customers constantly pushing the door open...you would normally see advertising on those....today, they are highly collectible advertising memorabilia.....
Wow, I love what Tom does to these builds....lots of great how-to's and information....
I'm not sure what happened to my post but great color Tom, and the screen doors will be awesome.
Looking good Tom
Jim
Tom
Wonderful work my friend!
Quote from: jlgrove on February 09, 2018, 05:27:02 PM
Wow, I love what Tom does to these builds....lots of great how-to's and information....
Groovy Jeff,
Thank you for the generous compliment on the kit. And, thank you for letting me do a build thread for you.
I didn't realize the push bar was a "push bar". Now I realize it just fits on the screen door as you said waist high.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 09, 2018, 05:30:38 PM
I'm not sure what happened to my post but great color Tom, and the screen doors will be awesome.
Curt,
Thanks for stopping by, after loosing the first post. Jeff's screen doors really change the entire look of the country store/post office.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 09, 2018, 05:33:48 PM
Looking good Tom
Jim
Jim,
After your eye surgery, I'm very happy to know you can see the work. 8) 8) 8)
Oh, and thank you Butty for the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 09, 2018, 08:07:51 PM
Tom
Wonderful work my friend!
John,
Thank you, very much appreciate the kind words of support.
Tom ;D
This afternoon, I enlarged Jeff's Post Office photo to 250%. I noticed in the upper left of the peaked front, I could just barely make out the exterior rafter detail. So, lucky guess on my part.
Although Jeff refers to this kit as a Post Office, the picture appears to be an old county store with a country post office to the right. Not sure the government would advertise a coke product. ;D ;D Diet Pepsi, maybe, but coke, not so much! ;D
The Canopy Glue dried and the doors and windows were glued in place.
The screen doors were finished and added to the building. Sorry I cut off the top and right side but I'll show the full frontal view later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100218172648.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100218172648.jpeg)
I treated the plastic doors and windows in the same manner as I did the walls. I think the weathering matches pretty well.
More in a few.
The walls are in the process of being glued together. This is why I couldn't take another photo of the front. 8) 8)
I should have the building together tomorrow afternoon and then I'll start the brick piers and roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100218172611.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100218172611.jpeg)
The brick column was painted by first staining the bricks with thinned Floquil Reefer White to represent mortar. When dry and cured, I dry brushed Floquil Polly Scale Pacemaker Red on the column. The bright red color will be drastically reduced after weathering with A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100218172623.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100218172623.jpeg)
I'll be back tomorrow afternoon, late.
It's amazing how just a little quip can jog a memory. Just the mention of the screen door push bar, brought back a flood of memories of the metal signs that used to go on those old push bars. I have a couple of old stores to build myself and those signs are just what I need, but didn't really think of those signs until now.
Quote from: Oldguy on February 11, 2018, 02:26:07 PM
It's amazing how just a little quip can jog a memory. Just the mention of the screen door push bar, brought back a flood of memories of the metal signs that used to go on those old push bars. I have a couple of old stores to build myself and those signs are just what I need, but didn't really think of those signs until now.
Bob,
I remember the metal push bars signs also. All the stores like this one that I remember also had Merita Bread stenciled on the screen above the push bars.
Tom ;D
I glued the four walls together. I made sure the four walls were at 90 degrees and then gently clamped them while the glue dried over night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170501.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170501.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170517.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170517.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here's the full front view of the building I promised to post today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170741.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170741.jpeg)
After the four walls were dry, I looked at the span between the peaks and decided it was to large. I don't want the roof to sag over time so I added some cross bracing for the roof panel supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170619.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170619.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I made sure the building stayed square while these braces dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170633.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170633.jpeg)
I added two braces for the peaked roof panels and two for the valley between the peaked lower edge and the post office roof panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170648.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170648.jpeg)
More in a few.
I was looking at the original photo of the structure and noticed the round top on the post office side chimney.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170659.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170659.jpeg)
At my request, Groovy Jeff was kind and generous and sent me an extra chimney. I noticed on one end the brick wasn't laser cut into the scale lumber.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170715.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170715.jpeg)
More in a few.
I decided to experiment and make this the exhaust end of the chimney.
I drilled a hole in this end and shaved off some of the sides using a new #11 blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170728.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170728.jpeg)
I sanded the top until it looked similar. I then used the fine toothed Xacto blade and cut in some mortar lines. I used a small flat head screw driver for the vertical lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170757.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170757.jpeg)
Continued after locating a cold Diet Pepsi.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170809.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170809.jpeg)
I then used a round file to clean the exhaust hole. I painted on more white for the mortar lines and when dry I added the brick red and the black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170824.jpeg)
More in a few.
AH, that's good, nice and cold.
It appears from the picture, the chimney fits flush against the outside of the wall. I centered the chimney between the two windows.
I then used a #11 blade and removed the two center battens and the bottom horizontal board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170837.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170837.jpeg)
This is how it should fit on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170852.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170852.jpeg)
More in a few.
The roof panels were laser cut to size. I removed them and let them rest on roof supports - nothing is glued at this point.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170907.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170907.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170919.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110218170919.jpeg)
Notice the chimney sits fairly high next to the wall. This is due to the fact the store will be raised two to three scale feet above the ground. The chimney will not be this high when properly install. Just FYI for now.
Done for the day.
Excellent Tom.
Tom,
Man! What a great structure to model. You've done this kit a solid for sure. Enjoy watching this build. Thanx Thom...
I continue to observe, learn and admire....AWESOME!!
Very nice modelling Tom. I built JL Innovative's Sawpit Store years ago and enjoyed it but yours is going to be even better!
Mike :)
Coming along very nicely, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: tct855 on February 12, 2018, 12:13:30 PM
Tom,
Man! What a great structure to model. You've done this kit a solid for sure. Enjoy watching this build. Thanx Thom...
Brother Thom,
Thank you, Jeff hit one out of the park with this one. This is such a great little kit and full of possibilities. Of course, I'm trying to make as many "Tommy" changes as possible.
Appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on February 12, 2018, 12:18:45 PM
I continue to observe, learn and admire....AWESOME!!
Donato,
I do appreciate the very generous compliment, thank you. I'm happy to hear you are picking up a few new ideas. I enjoy passing on what I've learned and picked up from others.
Tom ;D
Quote from: madharry on February 12, 2018, 12:34:51 PM
Very nice modelling Tom. I built JL Innovative's Sawpit Store years ago and enjoyed it but yours is going to be even better!
Mike :)
Mike,
Thank you for the kind support of the build. I've never built any J L Innovative kits. I do have 5 in my stash to be built though.
Tom ;D
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 12, 2018, 01:14:54 PM
Coming along very nicely, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Thank you for compliment and for following along, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Roof work has begun on the store/post office. The roof over the post office is fairly large so I wanted to give it a little stability so I glued three 10x10's to the under side of the roof panel. I marked the under side where the walls were located so the braces don't interfere with the walls.
I also marked where the rafter tails should be glued. I marked them at every 18 HO scale inches.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162406.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162406.jpeg)
I placed the opposite roof panel against that one to mark the rafter tails on the opposite side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162420.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162420.jpeg)
More in a few.
The post office roof panel was glued in place. I used a clothes pin to hold the rafter tail on the roof panel as the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162432.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162432.jpeg)
When that section was dry, I glued the middle roof section in place. Now you can see why I added the bracing. I gives me a nice support for gluing the roof panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162445.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162445.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
All three roof panels are now glued in place and the glue dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162459.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162459.jpeg)
I referred to the original picture again and realized the double doors have a small header board (my term anyway) over the doors. Yep, I added the board over my doors as well. I NEED TO STOP LOOKING AT THE PICTURE. ;D ;D ;D
I removed the batten over the screen door frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162513.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162513.jpeg)
I added the board and a coke sign. The sign came from my sign stash and resized to fit over the door. I sized and positioned it to fit between the two windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162525.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162525.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a flash.
I wanted to keep the building looking as much as possible to Jeff's photograph so I didn't go sign crazy. I did add two additional small signs to the left wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162540.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162540.jpeg)
I cut 39 rafter tails and glued them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162554.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162554.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162608.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162608.jpeg)
When the rafters tails were dry, I cut them off parallel to the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162622.jpeg)
Adding rafter tails to the side of a build is tedious and boring but well worth the effort and final appearance of you structure.
More in a few.
I forgot to mention I also added the exterior rafters to the edges of the roof panels. They were glued flush to the panels, meaning the top of the rafter is even with the roof top.
The top of the rafter will be covered with roofing paper so it won't show. This is another added feature you should consider as it also makes the kit look more finished. However, it isn't necessary. Just my personal preference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162634.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162634.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162646.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120218162646.jpeg)
Really nice work Tom.
Dang it!
I just knew, up to seein' the pichure that that soda sign was gonna' be Dr. Pepper. :'(
Wudda' been in the parts pf the south I knew..
At least the rest of the buildin' shines!
Tom
Another awesome build and thread. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Tom, That is a fantastic build. The wall colors and texture, the screens...looks like a large scale contest model. Thumbs up!
John
Looking good Tom..... 8) I wonder if the Pepsi people getting nervous with that Coke sign??? ;D
Tom,
Wonderful modeling. All the extra thought and effort to add extra detailing like the boards along the bottom and top of the walls, rafter tails, fly rafters, peeling paint, etc. has paid off with an outstanding structure.
Excellent Tom.
Jim
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 12, 2018, 05:38:26 PM
Really nice work Tom.
Curt,
Thank you kind sir, see you Saturday.
Tom ;D
Quote from: BandOGuy on February 12, 2018, 06:35:03 PM
Dang it!
I just knew, up to seein' the pichure that that soda sign was gonna' be Dr. Pepper. :'(
Wudda' been in the parts pf the south I knew..
At least the rest of the buildin' shines!
Chipper,
My first choice was a Dr. Pepper/Upper 10 sign. However, I couldn't get it sized to fit the space. I wanted to follow the original photo Groovy Jeff showed.
Since the Atlantic and Southern RR dates in the late 40's to early 50's (well, supposedly anyway) I wanted to use my 1939 Dr. Pepper sign. but couldn't get it to fit between the windows.
Sorry.
1939 Dr. Pepper sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218155850.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218155850.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on February 12, 2018, 08:01:47 PM
Tom
Another awesome build and thread. Thanks for sharing it with us.
John,
Thank you, kind sir. You are very welcome.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on February 13, 2018, 06:34:16 AM
Tom, That is a fantastic build. The wall colors and texture, the screens...looks like a large scale contest model. Thumbs up!
John
John,
Thank you Butty. The extra details took some time but worth it I believe.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 13, 2018, 08:29:36 AM
Looking good Tom..... 8) I wonder if the Pepsi people getting nervous with that Coke sign??? ;D
Greg,
Thank you. No, the Pepsi peeps know my heart and my taste for the finer libations. ;D
Tom 8)
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 13, 2018, 12:51:30 PM
Tom,
Wonderful modeling. All the extra thought and effort to add extra detailing like the boards along the bottom and top of the walls, rafter tails, fly rafters, peeling paint, etc. has paid off with an outstanding structure.
Jerry,
Thank you as well, very much appreciate you stopping by and posting a comment.
The extra time involved and extra details show just how a kit can be changed and look totally different. It starts and helps to have a great kit to work with.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 13, 2018, 01:26:18 PM
Excellent Tom.
Jim
Butty Jim,
Thank you my long time friend.
Tom ;D
I didn't want Groovy Jeff to go to any extra effort in supplying the plain end of the brick column. I did the same to the laser cut end of the chimney.
So Jeff, you don't need to do any uncut laser ends. Here is how I did the brick end. Which actually worked out better than the other.
I started with the laser brick column/chimney.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162201.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162201.jpeg)
I drilled a 9/64 hole near the top, but not to close. I then used the #11 blade to shape the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162213.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162213.jpeg)
More in a few.
I rounded the top using an Emory board. I added the mortar paint and brick color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162228.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162228.jpeg)
Oh, yea, be very careful in the chimney cutting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162241.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162241.jpeg)
Back in a few.
The one on the left is better than the right. The one on the left had the bricks laser cut in. Not so on the one on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162254.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162254.jpeg)
Now both chimneys match what is in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162307.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162307.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162321.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162321.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504
I rounded the top using an Emory board. I added the mortar paint and brick color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162228.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162228.jpeg)
Oh, yea, be very careful in the chimney cutting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162241.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130218162241.jpeg)
Back in a few.
Call 911.....he 's bleeding again..... ;)
OH, OH. First it was fire, now it is Flood, oops I mean, Blood
Jim
Tom, there are many paint colors to try for bricks, I don't think blood is one of them. ;D Let's be more careful.
Jeff
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 13, 2018, 05:45:20 PM
Call 911.....he 's bleeding again..... ;)
Greg,
Calling 911 wasn't necessary, THIS TIME. I learnt (sic) myself to apply band aids at a very early age. As soon as I had my first #11 blade knife, I became a member in good standing of the #11 Club.
You already know I'm the founding member and CEO of the Bunring LED's by Slim Club.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 14, 2018, 11:26:00 AM
OH, OH. First it was fire, now it is Flood, oops I mean, Blood
Jim
Jim,
That little slice was two days ago and it still stings. :'(
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 14, 2018, 11:26:50 AM
Tom, there are many paint colors to try for bricks, I don't think blood is one of them. ;D Let's be more careful.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff, good one sir. I was just trying something different.
It always happens when we say, "Your going to cut yourself if you hold it this way". :o :'(
However, it didn't stop me from holding it that way. Maybe it's my thought process that needs sharpening.Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2018, 05:43:51 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 13, 2018, 05:45:20 PM
Call 911.....he 's bleeding again..... ;)
Greg,
Calling 911 wasn't necessary, THIS TIME. I learnt (sic) myself to apply band aids at a very early age. As soon as I had my first #11 blade knife, I became a member in good standing of the #11 Club.
You already know I'm the founding member and CEO of the Bunring LED's by Slim Club.
Tom ;D
Good to know you're not stalled and able to keep up your "Greg Speed" empire building..... ;D ;D ;D
Most excellent idea modifying the chimneys Tom. Really looking good.
Quote from: MAP on February 16, 2018, 05:36:03 AM
Most excellent idea modifying the chimneys Tom. Really looking good.
Mark,
Thank you, much appreciate you stopping by.
Tom ;D
I started work on the roof and it was more fun than I expected. Meaning only that doing roofs is my least favorite part of any build.
I took the roof sheet supplied with the kit and sprayed it with Rust-Oleum Auto Primer Gray.
When dry, I cut the paper per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175307.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175307.jpeg)
I've used transfer tape in the past and found that it doesn't do as well as my method. The transfer tape when the backing is removed, doesn't always leave the sticky tape on the roof deck.
I prefer to use a fresh stick of Elmer's Glue. I got this at Staples and have used it several times with no drying of the glue in the tube. I get the school three pack for a few $$.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175320.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175320.jpeg)
More in a few.
I spread the glue on the roof deck and work from the bottom up.
Fast forward and the roof is done.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175349.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175349.jpeg)
When dry, I'll trim the roof from the edges.
Science is wonderful and now the roof is dry and the rolled roofing material is trimmed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175401.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175401.jpeg)
More in a few.
I moved on to the brick piers. First I marked on the bottom of the building where i wanted to locate the piers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175429.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175429.jpeg)
I cut 11 pieces at 2.5 ft. each. I didn't need to cut any for the front of the building. I have other plans for that.
After cutting the piers, I dipped them into some Hunterline Medium Gray A&I. I put them of a paper towel to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175416.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175416.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
I then glued the 11 piers in place over the marks I made on the bottom of the post office/country store.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175441.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175441.jpeg)
While the glue was still drying, I turned the building over and adjusted any piers that were out of line or not up/down.
I did move a few just slightly as if the piers shifted over time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175454.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175454.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175506.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175506.jpeg)
The chimney is not glued at this time in the build. It won't get glued until after the roof is weathered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175520.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175520.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175533.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175533.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175545.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175545.jpeg)
Time to upload and crop more pictures, back in about 30 minutes.
This morning I started weathering the roof.
Last year sometime Karl S. turned me on to a set of brushes from Micro-Mark. They are listed as Dry Brushing Brushes. I used one of them for my roof detailing/weathering.
I used the one on the left in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164518.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164518.jpeg)
More in a few.
For starters, I use Weber Costello Pastel Chalks. The chalks can be purchased at most art supply stores. I got these several years ago at Sam Flax. They are in square stick form but I just rub the brush across the top and the chalk comes off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164630.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164630.jpeg)
For this roof I used the third stick from the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164538.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164538.jpeg)
Back in a few.
Using the small brush, I brush the dark gray on the roof just under each piece of rolled roofing material as seen below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164553.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164553.jpeg)
I then use a soft bristle brush and pull the chalk from the top down. The reason for a soft brush is I want to just cover the roof. If you use a stiff brush, the chalk will be forced into the paint and is much more difficult to control.
You have been warned.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164615.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164615.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see how the chalk has been smoothed and blended on the roof. The left side has been done but not the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164644.jpeg)
More in a few.
The chalk has now been blended or smoothed on the roofing paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164656.jpeg)
If you desire to add more you can weather the roof per you own choice.
In the next photo, I've added a little light brown to the roof for a more weathered look.
More weathering will be added after the chimneys are added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164709.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190218164709.jpeg)
Looks good Tom. Jim
Quote from: jrmueller on February 19, 2018, 06:08:09 PM
Looks good Tom. Jim
Thank you Jim, very much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Really nice Tom. It speaks backwoods South. Not a critique but for a building on supports does the chimney go all the way to the ground? I don't know that answer.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 19, 2018, 07:45:30 PM
Really nice Tom. It speaks backwoods South. Not a critique but for a building on supports does the chimney go all the way to the ground? I don't know that answer.
Curt..... the chimney definitely goes to a bit below grade.
The weight of a brick chimney requires a solid foundation. This is generally done with a concrete footer with reinforcing steel rebar.
Tom,
Looks great! I really like the "down south" look the brick piers give the store.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 19, 2018, 07:45:30 PM
Really nice Tom. It speaks backwoods South. Not a critique but for a building on supports does the chimney go all the way to the ground? I don't know that answer.
Curt,
Thank you. Yes, the chimney will go to the ground and probably did sit on a base of some sort like concrete. The look of this chimney, tells me that it is a chimney for exhaust only and not an actual inside firebox. My guess is that there was a coal burning stove in the post office with a metal exhaust into the brick chimney.
This is how the final chimney will look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175520.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180218175520.jpeg)
I'll have this build and thread finished this afternoon.
As always my friend I do appreciate you following along on my adventures.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 19, 2018, 09:57:33 PM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 19, 2018, 07:45:30 PM
Really nice Tom. It speaks backwoods South. Not a critique but for a building on supports does the chimney go all the way to the ground? I don't know that answer.
Curt..... the chimney definitely goes to a bit below grade.
The weight of a brick chimney requires a solid foundation. This is generally done with a concrete footer with reinfocing steel rebar.
Greg,
Thanks for the help on Curt's question.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 20, 2018, 07:38:19 AM
Tom,
Looks great! I really like the "down south" look the brick piers give the store.
Jerry,
Thank you kind sir. The "down south" look is what the Atlantic and Southern RR is all about. I really like this structure by CCK.
I'll be finishing this build this afternoon and will follow with a short review of the kit.
Tom ;D
Tom. Thanks for the build thread. I have this kit in my stash(as my wife calls all her quilt fabric) and I am afraid it will be awhile before I get to it. Great build. Jim
Quote from: jrmueller on February 20, 2018, 09:52:04 AM
Tom. Thanks for the build thread. I have this kit in my stash(as my wife calls all her quilt fabric) and I am afraid it will be awhile before I get to it. Great build. Jim
Jim,
You are very welcome. This is a great structure and as you can see easy modified with a few extra little details.
Thank you for the compliment as well.
Tom ;D
So I am away for a week and you finish this awesome build, thanks Tom
The kit is 99.9 % finished now. I have approximately 30 pictures left to show. Normally, I'd do this over a three day posting but I'm going to finish it this afternoon.
One of the things I noticed is that I could see through the building and see light under neath.
I used 10 X 10's and glued four around the inside of the braces as shown below. I glued them just below the black braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140651.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140651.jpeg)
I cut a piece of card board and marked the edges. I then glued some 10 X 10's to the card board for strength.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140705.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140705.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Quote from: Janbouli on February 20, 2018, 02:27:02 PM
So I am away for a week and you finish this awesome build, thanks Tom
Jan,
I hope you had a great vacation and golf get away. I've been busy but need to move on to the next project.
Tom ;D
I made sure the floor fit with the bracing prior to gluing it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140719.jpeg)
It did fit so the floor was glued in place and allowed to dry. I cut a hole in the floor so I could run the wires for the outside light covered later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140738.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140738.jpeg)
More in a few.
When I got ready to build the store front deck I looked again at the original photo. I noticed the deck was angled at the post office end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140755.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140755.jpeg)
I was going to model it that way but decided to do the full deck.
Here is what I think the picture shows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140810.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140810.jpeg)
More in a few.
I built a simple box frame for the deck. I used 8x8's for the posts and 2x6's for the stringers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140823.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140823.jpeg)
Fast forward and the box frame was finished and the vertical boards were added. I used 2x8's for the vertical boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140838.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140838.jpeg)
More in a few.
To make the boards look worn and weathered I drew them under the fine tooth blade of an Xacto blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140852.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140852.jpeg)
I stained them with Hunterline Light Brown and let dry. The stain (A&I) brings out the wood grain. I then cut them to length and glued them to the frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140915.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140915.jpeg)
More in a few.
I forgot to mention in measuring the frame, take into account the thickness of the top deck boards. In this case I used 2 X 8's for the top boards as well. You want the top boards to just fit under the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140932.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140932.jpeg)
This deck is 8 HO scale feet in width and the same length as the front wall. I originally made the deck 5 scale feet in width but didn't like the look so I added the three extra feet.
I made the front steps like the ones I remember as a boy. There was a lot of activity at these old stores and post office so the stairs give the customers plenty of room to come and go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140949.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218140949.jpeg)
More in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
I wanted both chimneys to be at the same height. The post office chimney was set so I used an level to adjust the other one to that same height. I then glued both in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141006.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141006.jpeg)
I'm sure when this building was built, out houses were in use. The town of Tahope added a sewer system so the folks here added indoor plumbing.
I used a punch to "punch" " ;D ;D a hole in the roof. I cut a small piece of brass tube for the vent stack.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141020.jpeg)
I painted the brass tubing with Floquil Gunmetal and while the paint was still wet, added some powdered rust colored chalk from Bragdon to the vent stack.
More in a few.
I used Gallery Glass Liquid Leading for the tar pitch around the vents and both chimneys.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141047.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141047.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141100.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141100.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I used one of Slim's LEDs and made a goose neck light. Hopefully, this time he sold me some that won't catch on fire.
For the goose neck I used .025" OD (outside diameter) stainless tubing.
I painted the top of the shade with green and the underside with white. The goose neck was painted with weathered black and the rust colored Bragdon chalk powder was added while the paint was still wet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141114.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141114.jpeg)
The coke machine came with the kit and was painted red.
The goose neck light was glued in place over the Coke sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141127.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141127.jpeg)
Back in a few.
Nice job.
The LED was a little bright for the era I'm modeling. I used Tamiya clear Yellow and using a toothpick, applied a little clear yellow to the business end of the LED.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141141.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141141.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141154.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141154.jpeg)
The light isn't as bright as seen in the photo. Trust me, I'm a professional electrician. :-X :-X
Quote from: postalkarl on February 20, 2018, 04:08:39 PM
Nice job.
Karl,
Thank you. BTW, the issue with the CD was in my software. Should have it fixed soon. ::)
Tom ;D
Here are a few photos of the finished model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141211.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141225.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141239.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141239.jpeg)
I said the model was 99.9% finished. As you can see I need to make a set of stairs for the rear door of the store.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141251.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141251.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is a good look at the roof, the chimneys and the two vent stacks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141306.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141306.jpeg)
Here is a better look at the box frame I made for the front deck. You can see the original 5 ft. deck and the extra 3 ft. addition.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141318.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141318.jpeg)
I was on the phone a few weeks ago with Groovy Jeff. He mentioned that he had a new kit of a country post office and thought it would be a building I'd be interested in. He sent me the picture, the one at the front of this thread.
I called him, or maybe I emailed him and said I love it. Gotta have one. He said he would send one and I said I'd do a thread on the build. He graciously sent one at no charge - Yes, I did offer to pay. He also said I didn't have to do a thread, I said yea, I do.
What appealed to me about the kit was the fact it was an old country store/post office and had many many possibilities. I love putting my own spin on the kits I build.
The Babe is calling. My braun is needed and not my brain thank God.
Back in a few.
First rate job! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Okay, back.
The kit is very simple and straight forward as to the build. The instructions are clear and unambiguous. The walls were all cut squarely and the doors and windows fit without me having to make any corrections.
Of course you saw where I removed the battens over/under/around the windows and doors. However, this isn't required.
Jeff did include a small Coke machine and a box for coal. I used the Coke machine but not the coal bin.
In Jeff's version of the kit, four pieces of white material was included as a foundation. Or, maybe this was included so the modeler could glue the vertical exterior boards to it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141852.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218141852.jpeg)
If you refer to the original photo below, you can see the vertical boards probably go all the way around the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218173425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020218173425.jpeg)
I opted for the brick piers as this gave me a better look as a southern style building.
More in a few.
Another excellent build Tom.....well done. 8)
If you choose to follow the original instructions, you will end up with a great looking country store/post office.
The kit has so many possibilities and I tried to include them all in my build.
I spent a great amount of time studying the picture and made as many changes to the kit to resemble the original structure.
I added the horizontal bead board on the front of the store wall, the ban boards on the bottom of each of the four walls. I also added the full exterior rafters next to the peaked front and rear walls, full exterior rafters to the edge of the roof and 38 rafter tails.
The chimneys were modified to represent the original chimneys by drilling a 9/64 hole in the brick columns and then shaped and sanded at the top. I added two roof vent stacks and a repair patch on the roof.
The front doors were modified and recessed into the front wall to accommodate the screen doors. The screen doors were framed with scale 2x2's and fit over the recessed doors.
Jeff will send the screen doors if the modeler wants to go that route. Actually the store and post office need the screen doors to look like the picture.
All the other stuff I mentioned is fluff I added to my model but makes all the difference. All the changes I made can be accomplished a little added expense. The screen material is cheap and the goose neck light is an extra. BTW, I didn't get the goose neck from Slim, I used his parts to make mine.
Anyway, this is a kit you can't loose on. It is simple yet elegant. Character just doesn't describe the look when finished.
This kit is a must if you like a well designed little country post office. Jeff hit this one out of the park.
I certainly appreciate Jeff letting me build this one for the forum.
Now call Jeff and get yours.
Tom ;D
Beautiful modeling Tom. Another top notch building for the A&S.
Quote from: Dave K. on February 20, 2018, 05:12:31 PM
First rate job! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
Thank you for the very nice compliment on the build. Honestly, I just trying to keep up with your excellent modeling.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 20, 2018, 05:26:33 PM
Another excellent build Tom.....well done. 8)
Greg,
Thank you Butty, much appreciated. It was sure a fun build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 20, 2018, 05:48:56 PM
Beautiful modeling Tom. Another top notch building for the A&S.
Curt,
Thank you my friend. I'm happy you like it and I'm glad you got a chance to see it in person this past Saturday.
Tom ;D
This is the real estate site where the structure will be placed. Looks like I'll need to rework the dirt road.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180524.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180524.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180536.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180536.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180548.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180548.jpeg)
Thanks again Tom , what a wonderful little structure and you make it look so simple. I absolutely love the screen doors.
Quote from: Janbouli on February 20, 2018, 06:32:26 PM
Thanks again Tom , what a wonderful little structure and you make it look so simple. I absolutely love the screen doors.
Jan,
Thank you for following along. Mostly it is simple but very time consuming for extra details. The screens are a nice touch Jeff added.
Tom ;D
Tom,
This beautiful structure is bound to become a favorite spot for the local rail fans. Looking forward to seeing some of their photos of the A&S at this location.
I do wonder, though, how you can call it 99.9% finished without even one dog sleeping on the porch.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 21, 2018, 09:06:56 AM
Tom,
This beautiful structure is bound to become a favorite spot for the local rail fans. Looking forward to seeing some of their photos of the A&S at this location.
I do wonder, though, how you can call it 99.9% finished without even one dog sleeping on the porch.
Jerry,
I have several thousand detail parts to go all over the layout. Dogs, I have plenty of and store crates of fruit as well. I will be very detailed in the end. I still need to do the stairs on the rear door.
Tom ;D
ACL 1504,
Tom what a beautiful job and what an awesome kit to start from. I must say, this is a truly original one of a kind type of structure. I bet if Jimmy was to provide a dozen or two of castings to this kit.
Everyone would own a copy just like Peter Frampton's Comes Alive double LP. Just sayin'. Kp-out...
What a fantastic structure and build. Here in the Ozarks, we still see survivors very reminiscent of what you have done. Many small towns that no longer show up on state maps have buildings such as that one, just hanging in there. Again great build.
Beautiful build, Tom. It came out a real treat!
Cheers, Mark.
That came out great and perfectly suits the layout
John
Hi Tom,
Your Post Office project turned out just great and fits in very well with the theme of your railroad.
That's going to look great in place. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I just gotta get over there and see some of these latest builds.
Jim
Beautiful work, Tom. You and Groovy Jeff really captured that rural feel on this structure.
Jeff
Quote from: tct855 on February 21, 2018, 09:46:15 AM
ACL 1504,
Tom what a beautiful job and what an awesome kit to start from. I must say, this is a truly original one of a kind type of structure. I bet if Jimmy was to provide a dozen or two of castings to this kit.
Everyone would own a copy just like Peter Frampton's Comes Alive double LP. Just sayin'. Kp-out...
Brother Thom,
Thank you, much appreciated. Jeff did come out with a great structure so most of the credit should go his way.
I'm looking forward to Jimmy's casting as well as the price.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on February 21, 2018, 10:53:42 AM
What a fantastic structure and build. Here in the Ozarks, we still see survivors very reminiscent of what you have done. Many small towns that no longer show up on state maps have buildings such as that one, just hanging in there. Again great build.
Bob,
I thank you for the kind words of support on the build. There are a few around here but not to many left.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 21, 2018, 12:51:15 PM
Beautiful build, Tom. It came out a real treat!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Thank you, it was a fun build as well.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on February 21, 2018, 03:22:03 PM
That came out great and perfectly suits the layout
John
John,
Thank you Butty. It fits the layout and the location perfectly.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on February 21, 2018, 05:09:11 PM
Hi Tom,
Your Post Office project turned out just great and fits in very well with the theme of your railroad.
Steve,
Thank you very much. Jeff's release of the kit was perfect timing for me and the residents of the Town of Tahope.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on February 21, 2018, 05:22:37 PM
That's going to look great in place. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
Thank you, I can't wait to get the scenery in around the building.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 21, 2018, 07:13:55 PM
I just gotta get over there and see some of these latest builds.
Jim
Butty Jim,
You are welcome anytime my friend. I won't be here this Saturday but the Judge and I will be here March 3.
Come join us for some A&S RR BSing and BBQ.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 22, 2018, 08:35:09 AM
Beautiful work, Tom. You and Groovy Jeff really captured that rural feel on this structure.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Thank you, Groovy Jeff was correct when he stated to me I have the perfect kit for you. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
While out doing my morning walk, I saw this old house. It is under renovation but I noticed it was on brick piers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140654.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140654.jpeg)
The previous owner used lattice to cover the area between the bricks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140707.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140707.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140719.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 25, 2018, 06:07:48 PM
While out doing my morning walk, I saw this old house. It is under renovation but I noticed it was on brick piers.
...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140719.jpeg)
Monster Modelworks makes some brick columns that work perfectly for brick piers.
dave
T~,
Nice find! While walking? Sooooo you carry a camera with you while walking? Looks like someone just got litt up!
KP-out P.S. I know, I know. Your camera has a strap-to hang around your neck, Right!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezTq5aTznhU
Tom
You need brick piers ? lmk I got ya covered I have them as part of my upcoming modular brick wall sections that will start being put on the site next week
K
The Post Office really came out looking great Tom. Excellent location you've chosen to plant it on the layout. Jeff sure did a nice job putting out a kit that captures the feel of the prototype.
Two thumbs up! Super build of a pretty impressive little kit from Groovy. :D
Quote from: deemery on February 25, 2018, 08:04:41 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 25, 2018, 06:07:48 PM
While out doing my morning walk, I saw this old house. It is under renovation but I noticed it was on brick piers.
...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250218140719.jpeg)
Monster Modelworks makes some brick columns that work perfectly for brick piers.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for the info, CCK and KC's Workshop also makes brick columns.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 25, 2018, 08:08:09 PM
T~,
Nice find! While walking? Sooooo you carry a camera with you while walking? Looks like someone just got litt up!
KP-out P.S. I know, I know. Your camera has a strap-to hang around your neck, Right!
Thom,
No, no camera on the walk. Most sane people would realize I came back with a camera, but you? Well, never mind. I think you are the one that got litt!
I do carry my cell phone to listen to music while walking, so how do you not know I took the photos with my cell phone. Did you read I had a camera with me.
Oh, by the way, my finger nails are clean as well. ;D ;D ;D
Gottcha this time my friend.
Tom 8)
Quote from: Amagic41 on February 25, 2018, 08:31:41 PM
Tom
You need brick piers ? lmk I got ya covered I have them as part of my upcoming modular brick wall sections that will start being put on the site next week
K
Kenny,
No, I have some but I'll be looking at your site next week all the same.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on February 26, 2018, 07:40:23 AM
The Post Office really came out looking great Tom. Excellent location you've chosen to plant it on the layout. Jeff sure did a nice job putting out a kit that captures the feel of the prototype.
Mark,
Thank you for the kind words. The kit does capture the look and feel of the south for buildings like this one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 26, 2018, 07:52:15 AM
Two thumbs up! Super build of a pretty impressive little kit from Groovy. :D
Bob,
Thank you kind sir. This is a great kit by CCK. Not sure where Jeff got the photo but I'm very glad he did.
Tom ;D
.
Thom,
Thank you for the support on the project.
Tom ;D
Tom, you inspire me still ... A master of the craft ...
You Sir, are at your ...
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pinnaclefreight.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F02%2Fpif-company-logo.svg&hash=7aa362bb908ea54d8e3f3ce6e536c038d261e316)
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2018, 06:07:47 PM
This is the real estate site where the structure will be placed. Looks like I'll need to rework the dirt road.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180524.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180524.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180536.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180536.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180548.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180548.jpeg)
Nice work on the Post Office Tom.
Quote from: Donato on February 28, 2018, 02:30:37 PM
Tom, you inspire me still ... A master of the craft ...
You Sir, are at your ...
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pinnaclefreight.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F02%2Fpif-company-logo.svg&hash=7aa362bb908ea54d8e3f3ce6e536c038d261e316) (http://www.pinnaclefreight.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/pif-company-logo.svg)
Donato,
Thank you, much appreciated.
I'm very sorry that I missed this post. I should have responded back in February. :'(
My apologies sir.Tom
Quote from: Lynnb on March 30, 2018, 11:04:13 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2018, 06:07:47 PM
This is the real estate site where the structure will be placed. Looks like I'll need to rework the dirt road.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180524.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180524.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180536.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180536.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180548.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200218180548.jpeg)
Nice work on the Post Office Tom.
Lynn,
Thank you as well and I'm sorry I missed this post as well.
Tom ;D
Tom, The layout is coming along just fantastic!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Steve,
Thank you, it sure has been a lot of fun up till now. Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D