Hi Guys
I would like to add an interior to my Hollis exterminating. Specifically the garage with the door open an a shot through the one of the upstairs windows. How do you hide the bracing? Should I just build a box for the inside?
Thanks
Dick
Dick...............
First.... Welcome aboard.
Stiffening can be accomplished in a number of ways. It is not always a big piece of dimensional piece of wood..
It can be as simple as putting a layer of super glue on the back side of a panel of scribed wood.
If you do this you must hold it flat during the kicking process to prevent warping.
Then frame into other parts of the construction.
see ya
Bob
Hi Dick,
Welcome aboard! You ask a great question (basically you're asking how to turn a basic static model into a proud work of animated art). Remember the magician's saying as we grew up. It's all done with smoke & mirrors.
You can build your structures with reasonable inside bracing (smaller is better), however adding interior details with details and even a paper printed interior scene. You can put in such a way that whatever is seen through the window simply shows something more than a box with bracing.
Sometimes by cutting open a door you can show some details just inside like a paper printed rug or tile or build a picture frame for a picture of yourself or kids in the scene. Also, hide things right in plain sight by adding a decently detailed figure doing something right in the doorway in front of the details just inside.
Remember the best part of this hobby is you can do whatever you want, spend whatever you want or invest as much time building as you want. When I build something, I try to always add something which tells a story, or adds animation, or enhances details for the viewer to notice or start a conversation with "did you notice that?" George Sellios is a master at that.
Hope this helps. Thanx Thom...
Welcome to the forum Dick!
For views thru windows I didn't worry too much about the bracing when I did this on my Red Light District build. I build a box like structure and cover the floor with a printed 'rug' and the walls with printed 'wallpaper'. I mocked up a few details and slide the box in place. If the bracing would have been visible, which it wasn't, I would have painted it a color that blended in with the wallpaper.
I haven't done open garage doors with an interior. If I were to do it then it would depend on whether there are side windows or not. If there were not side windows I'd go with an interior wall that covered up the bracing. Windows would make that more a challenge because it would become more apparent that the walls were really thick due to the bracing.
Again, welcome to the forum! We look forward to seeing your take on Hollis. ;)
Welcome to the forum Dick..... :)
Welcome to the forum Dick. I hate to waste common items so when my wife trimmed photos for scrapbooks or frames, many of the trimmed pieces were perfect for the view through a window or doorway. They often show textures and shading which are hard to duplicate in other ways. I am also a stamp collector and many stamps are scaled just right for signs, posters or artwork. Do not hesitate to ask. We are all full of ideas.
...and now the mission creep sets in.
I'd have to dig through some old clinic photos but for through-the-window scenes I like to construct a five-sided box to fit behind the window. The little box is your "stage" and you construct the set within. There are plenty of textures you can get from the web to print out and glue to the walls. Check out Clever Models (http://clevermodels.net) for some neat interiors that you can use. Another source is Texures.com (http://textures.com).
After you've built the little stage you'll need to suck out the darkness inside. There's an odd character who pops in here from time to time that knows (or THINKS he knows) some lighting stuff. Name escapes me...but Reading Bob and Mr. Langford 8) know a thing or two about lighting things up.
And if you've got stuff to show through a window, don't use that Gallery Glop brush-on window glazing. Take the time and use the clear sheet material. If you want to brush-on something then brush on some Pledge (used to be Future) floor polish onto the back side of the glazing material to glue it in place. Use some disposable gloves when working with the clear film to keep your fingerprints form getting all over it. If you have a really big plate glass kind of window like a storefront, hit it with a light shot of Tamiya "smoke" clear acrylic. It'll darken the window a little and give things a little more depth. Microscope cover slips make for great window glazing but cutting them is a royal pain.
Welcome to the fun stuff. If you've ever read the children's story "If You Give a Mouse a Cookie" it's a lot like that.
-slim
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on March 01, 2018, 10:29:07 AM
...and now the mission creep sets in.
Truer words have never been...well...in this case...typed. ::)
I found some pictures of one of the tamer interiors I constructed for the Red Light District build I did a while back. It's room that is on the second floor of the adult book store. The room only has two windows on the front wall so there were no side windows to worry about. When it's in place you can't really see a lot of the interior because the couple is strategically positioned in front of one of the two windows.
I didn't bother with a full interior....Donato thought I should have added bed to give this couple a place to....errr...rest. I suppose a few additional details would be partially visible and might add to the scene but I think it's passable without them. I added wallpaper to the walls and I put a carpet in place over top of the copper tape that feeds the LED for the first level of the building. You can't see thru the windows on that level so no need for an interior - just an LED to light it up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250916100122-164211253.jpeg)
Looking into the the room at night you can see the carpet and the couple but that's about all you can see. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-291017105949-25770463.jpeg)
Have fun with it!
Bob - in the future when you get into a situation where your floor is the ceiling of the room below, try running the copper tape on the ceiling below and use a 2x3 surface mount LED. Another benefit to that is that you don't have this big clunky LED hanging down from the ceiling.
-slim
Dick,
Here are a couple shots of a shadow box interior I did for a knife factory. Interior details are very basic. The door is printed cardstock from a Clever Models download. I built the bench from some pieces of styrene. The barrel, boxes and crates are inexpensive Preiser items, though I could have easily made my own. Wall posters I think were leftovers from a FSM kit, garbage can is a commercial casting. The structure is not done, I still need to finish the roofing and final weathering. I plan to light the shadow box, the tube in the corner is for the wires to enter the space. As you can see, the position of the doors keeps the viewer from seeing the bracing. Another way to disguise the bracing is to build a cabinet around it.
WoW...!!! What an education .... and for FREE!!!
Welcome Dick.
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on March 01, 2018, 01:48:55 PM
Bob - in the future when you get into a situation where your floor is the ceiling of the room below, try running the copper tape on the ceiling below and use a 2x3 surface mount LED. Another benefit to that is that you don't have this big clunky LED hanging down from the ceiling.
-slim
Good tips. I haven't tried soldering the surface mount LED's to the copper tape. At least not yet. ;) I wasn't too worried about using the clunky LED's here because I knew they couldn't be seen based on their position.
I've been making this stuff up on the fly as I go. :P
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 01, 2018, 03:52:33 PM
I've been making this stuff up on the fly as I go. :P
Don't we all??? ;D
-slim
Welcome to our friendly little parade.
I'll take the garage part of the question. Somewhere buried in all my moving boxes is a partially completed Tower Garage kit I started before our nomad phase struck. I detailed the interior using framing as you would see in any wood framed/wrapped building. If you have an unfinished garage in your home, take photos of it and reproduce it inside your model. Remember though if you want to get really picky (anal) that commercial framing will be heavier than your home framing. Instead of 2"x 4" studs, commercial might be 4" x 8" larger. Also look at how the model is to be scene on the layout. If the opening won't reveal the entire interior, you might get away with detailing one or two interior walls.
If you're building the model for contest entry, then we're talking about a whole different level of detail. But I hope you've at least got some ideas.
I build scale studs out of 4x4s. It's beefy enough to keep everything from warping. You really only have to stud the parts that will be visible, same thing goes for details. Just fill in the areas that will be visible and don't use your best castings.
Buy some LEDs from Slim and light it up.
That's how I did this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/487-161116143027-18074891.jpeg)
-Steve
thanks for all the replies and tips. Steve great shot. With everything else going on you don't even notice the studs.
Dick
Great thread...a keeper. 👍🏻
Very nice thread and welcome to the forum.