Well, I'm off on another build of Ken Crump's great kits. This time it will be to kit bash the three KCW's kit bash by Jason Jensen.
Jason did a fantastic job on blending the three kits into one structure. I'll have more to say about his build later in the thread but I want to get this one started.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918172429.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
Lots of goodies in the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175442.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175442.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175454.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175454.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175505.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175505.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175516.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175516.jpeg)
More in a few.
Kenny has color coded the strip wood which corresponds with the bracing locations.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145125.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145125.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175529.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175529.jpeg)
More in a few.
Hey, Kenny, anything else in the box/
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175540.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918175540.jpeg)
No, I guess not! ;D
Included in the kit is a smaller color sheet of Jensen's build. I have this taped up for quick reference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145204.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145204.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also printed the color photos from Kenny's post of the kit bash.
http://modelersforum.com/kit-building/jason-jensens-kit-bash-of-3-kc's-kits/ (http://modelersforum.com/kit-building/jason-jensens-kit-bash-of-3-kc's-kits/)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145138.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145138.jpeg)
I also have them handy as well along with the most important tool in building the kit. A cold Diet Pepsi.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918145151.jpeg)
More in a few.
I hope Kenny doesn't mind but I'm posting the color photos again here. Easier to follow than going back and forth to his post.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918172416.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918174146.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918174158.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918174211.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918174226.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918174239.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240918174250.jpeg)
Another Tahope structure.....I'll be watching the progress..... :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 25, 2018, 03:12:38 PM
Another Tahope structure.....I'll be watching the progress..... :)
Greg,
You are correct. This will be located in South Tahope just south of Reading Bob's beautifully built FSM Jefferies Point S&H Co.
By the way, I'm changing the look of Jensen's build to suit what I have in mind for the structure. It will require more cutting and planning but I feel the end result will be just a good as the original.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I'm looking forward to this build, too. I'm sure you will provide us with your usual thoughtful thorough construction thread.
And, as a side note, I really appreciate when a manufacturer color codes the strip wood in the kit. I find it a nice time saver.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on September 25, 2018, 03:18:06 PM
Tom,
I'm looking forward to this build, too. I'm sure you will provide us with your usual thoughtful thorough construction thread.
And, as a side note, I really appreciate when a manufacturer color codes the strip wood in the kit. I find it a nice time saver.
Jerry,
Thank you for following along on this adventure. I'm really excited to get going on this one. For this build I do plan on my usual very detailed build and narrative.
It appears as though I'll be writing the instructions for my version of Jensen's build. More on this later in the thread.
Tom ;D
I mentioned I plan on building my version of Jason's kit bash. There are some things I love about the original and some things that just don't work for me.
I will discuss these later in the thread but for now I'll keep it simple.
Jerry summed it up best when he said, "Implausible construction detracts from some otherwise outstanding models".
I have my own vision of how I want my version of Jason't model to to look. Now, where do I start? 8) 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918151222.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250918151222.jpeg)
Tom,
I find it helps if I start at the beginning. Not sure what works for you!
Jerry,
You are correct but I'm not sure just yet where my beginning is. ;D ;D ;D
I need to not get ahead of the build. This is how excited I am to start.
Tom ;D
Looking forward to following along on this thread, Tom. Seems like there are a lot of possibilities with this kit so I'm eager to see how you put your own stamp on it.
I'm watching with interest, Tom.
Very keen to get your take on "Implausible construction detracts from some otherwise outstanding models". Please don't hold back. We are all here to learn.
Cheers, Mark.
Seeing the color coded stripwood takes me back to my first Ambroid kit - yep didn't read the instructions first and measured from the colored end on my first cut - Duh!!!
Doug
OK, you got me hooked.......I will just have to follow to see how this turns out.
Jim
Of course I'm following.
Yep...count me in. 👍🏻
Quote from: Opa George on September 25, 2018, 04:54:02 PM
Looking forward to following along on this thread, Tom. Seems like there are a lot of possibilities with this kit so I'm eager to see how you put your own stamp on it.
George,
There are many possibilities here. I have one in mind for my build and will show it as I move along.
Thanks for following.
Tom ;D
Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 25, 2018, 05:45:46 PM
I'm watching with interest, Tom.
Very keen to get your take on "Implausible construction detracts from some otherwise outstanding models". Please don't hold back. We are all here to learn.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Happy to have you along on the adventure. I'll explain in more detail the comment above in the next few posts.
Tom ;D
Quote from: NKP768 on September 25, 2018, 06:14:19 PM
Seeing the color coded stripwood takes me back to my first Ambroid kit - yep didn't read the instructions first and measured from the colored end on my first cut - Duh!!!
Doug
Doug,
Thanks for checking in. Yes, I think we have all done the same thing. Skip the instructions and jump right in on a build only to find we cut something that wasn't meant to be cut. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on September 25, 2018, 07:04:28 PM
OK, you got me hooked.......I will just have to follow to see how this turns out.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for getting on the bandwagon with this one. I hope it turns out the way I intend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on September 25, 2018, 07:33:20 PM
Of course I'm following.
Curt,
And, of course, I appreciate the following.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on September 26, 2018, 06:03:04 AM
Yep...count me in. 👍🏻
Dave,
Happy to have you on board. This will surely be a fun build, er, kit bash.
Tom ;D
Tom
Looking in also .... Here is a link to Jasons Facebook Page where he detailed his bash https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Jensen-Trains-578521205680286/ (https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Jensen-Trains-578521205680286/)
Quote from: Amagic41 on September 26, 2018, 09:06:21 AM
Tom
Looking in also .... Here is a link to Jasons Facebook Page where he detailed his bash https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Jensen-Trains-578521205680286/ (https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Jensen-Trains-578521205680286/)
Ken,
I'm happy to have you following along. Thanks for the link, I knew I saw it somewhere but couldn't find it. I don't do face book so now I can see what he says.
Tom ;D
For those who may have purchased this kit, meaning the kit bash kit, the build is rather straight forward.
I know Jason's build seems a bit intimidating when first viewed a few times, but it is rather a simple build.
If you want to build Jason's model, start by cutting of the top of the larger building. This building is Goober's Service & Towing.
In the photo below, you'll only need to remove the gable portion as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094258.jpeg)
Once the building was braced and built, he simply added the Utility Shed to the top. Here is my the utility shed I built for the A&S RR.
Referring to Jason's build, this is the second floor structure on his kit bash.
However, Jason didn't bring the roof down over the area of the deck. He simply followed the roof line of the main shed itself.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094323.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094323.jpeg)
Prior to the actual build, I'd like to mention the comment Jerry made on the DeGraw's Poultry build. Simply put he stated,
"Your build of the shed with its correct bracing, rafters, etc. really makes the building stand out. IMO, implausible construction detracts from some otherwise outstanding models and it is IMO all to common."
Mark mentioned this as well and wanted me to explain further and to not hold back.
Another way to look at this is to imagine a building that no contractor would ever build. In the 1:1 world, details of diagonal bracing would be on every post considered a support post. My DeGraw's deck and post framing is such an example.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918132109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918132109.jpeg)
Here is the example I mention as not having the correct diagonal bracing on the shed support posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918133333.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918133333.jpeg)
Yes, I agree its only a model but if you build it, why not do it correctly construction wise?
More in a few.
Since I'm building the Jenson kit bash, let's talk about the construction of the model.
Jason did a fantastically beautiful job on the build. I take nothing from Jason on the craftsmanship.
However, three diagonal braces are missing from the 4X4 support posts.
No contractor would build the second floor, okay, there may be one out there, out over the first wall. It would make more sense to use the diagonal braces up against the walls of the first floor and to the bottom of a support beam under the second floor instead of the 4X4 support posts.
What happens if a car/truck hits the 4X4 post next to the gas pump? The entire corner of the second story walls will come tumbling down not to mention the fire involved in the crash.
Again, a beautifully build model but implausible construction.
I could go on but hopefully my point is taken. I'm sure I offended some person and that is not my intent. I'm only pointing out that a model should be believable in all aspects including correct construction.
I've seen many models beautifully built but still missing some very basic details that make the model plausible.
Okay, I'm moving on to my build but I do want to hear from others on the subject.
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 26, 2018, 02:52:14 PM
Another way to look at this is to imagine a building that no contractor would ever build. In the 1:1 world, details of diagonal bracing would be on every post considered a support post. My DeGraw's deck and post framing is such an example.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918132109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918132109.jpeg)
Here is the example I mention as not having the correct diagonal bracing on the shed support posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918133333.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230918133333.jpeg)
I agree with Tom about correct construction. Unless you'll modeling a decrepit shack that is in a state of collapse, your structure should 'make sense.'
Note in his version (1st picture) the middle posts are directly over the upright timbers which support the decking of the platform. In the 2nd picture, these same posts are only supported by the planking of the deck, because the spacing of the big supports is different.
Quote from: Rollin on September 26, 2018, 10:23:48 PM
I agree with Tom about correct construction. Unless you'll modeling a decrepit shack that is in a state of collapse, your structure should 'make sense.'
Note in his version (1st picture) the middle posts are directly over the upright timbers which support the decking of the platform. In the 2nd picture, these same posts are only supported by the planking of the deck, because the spacing of the big supports is different.
Rollin,
Thanks for following along the comment. I appreciate the feedback.
Tom ;D
Let's move on to the build.
I've spent a few hours going over Jason's photos and the parts in the kit. Each one of KC's Workshop kits is great in them selves. All combined as Jason did is really a very unique and eye catching structure.
The basic concept works for me but I see many different versions of it in my mind. As many of you know, I like to put my own spin on models.
If you intend to build Jason's model as he did, don't look for any instructions other than the ones for each individual kit. However, if you spend some time looking at Jason's pictures, the kit will actually look much less complicated and how he did it will be clear.
After looking at the kit, I decided to make extra walls for my own use. I like the look of Goober's Service & Towing and didn't want to use those original walls. The peaked ends would need removing so this would prevent me from building Goober's later on.
I started by taking a large piece of clapboard, overlap siding or what ever you call it. I'll refer to it as clapboard. You can buy these directly from Northeastern Lumber in larger sheets than are available from the local hobby shops.
I purchased mine from George Sellios on my only visit. The sheet shown below is about 6"W X 17"L.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094341.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094341.jpeg)
When you copy a wall section, turn the large piece over and place the original pieces face down on the back of the copy material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094355.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094355.jpeg)
More in a few.
Using a sharp #2 pencil, I traced the original walls onto the larger sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094413.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094413.jpeg)
I then drew a line across the top of the two large sections of Goober's. This line is where I will cut the top gabled end off.
NOTE: You only need to remove the gabled end on front section - this would be the one with the large square window on the left side as you view the front wall section.
In the photo below, it is the one on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094427.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094427.jpeg)
More in a few.
In the next photo you will see it marked as the front wall. This is incorrect, it is in fact the rear wall.
I took one wall section from the Utility Shed and measured up from the top of the larger wall as shown below. This will be the height of my second story.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094442.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094442.jpeg)
I don't plan on using the board and batten walls for my second story. I'll cut new walls from the clapboard siding for my second story.
Micro Mark sells a tool for cutting corners. They refer to this tool as a 5/16" Corner Punch.
This is how it is used to start the cutting process of the corners.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094453.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094453.jpeg)
I don't like this tool and instead use new/sharp #11 Xacto blades to cut my new walls, door and window openings.
More in a few.
Here is the finished product of my new walls. The original walls are on the top and my walls are on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094504.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918094504.jpeg)
More later this afternoon. I have some 1:1 things to do first.
Neat - scratchbuilding tutorial. I totally need this.
thx!
Great job and how to so far.
Great thread (as usual)! :D
The thing about implausible construction, with someone like me anyway, is most of the time I don't know any better unless it's blatantly obvious. That happens when you start off in accounting, become a banker and then finally a software developer. I generally don't catch the small stuff. Ignorance is bliss I suppose. :P
Quote from: vinceg on September 28, 2018, 01:38:57 PM
Neat - scratchbuilding tutorial. I totally need this.
thx!
Vince,
You are welcome. Hopefully I have a few ideas you can use.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on September 28, 2018, 02:22:10 PM
Great job and how to so far.
Curt,
Thanks very much. This will be fun to build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on September 28, 2018, 02:41:33 PM
Great thread (as usual)! :D
The thing about implausible construction, with someone like me anyway, is most of the time I don't know any better unless it's blatantly obvious. That happens when you start off in accounting, become a banker and then finally a software developer. I generally don't catch the small stuff. Ignorance is bliss I suppose. :P
Bob,
Much appreciated, thank you. I don't think you have anything to worry about on your builds.
I want to build just like you do when I grow up! :P
Tom 8)
I wrote a dissertation about your problems with the design yesterday.....but the forum decided to crash while I was previewing the post.....so no post. :-[ Oh well.. ...I'll tell you about it tomorrow when I bring the goodies. :D
I need to clarify something I mentioned earlier in the thread.
In scratch building, I always cut new pieces, walls or anything else from the back side of a new sheet of lumber. This way, as I cut deeper in the wood the width of the blade is on the backside of the new piece.
Also, the reason you want both the new wood and the original piece face down is to ensure a duplicate or like copy of the original.
If you place the new piece face down and the original face up and then outline and cut, you will end up with a mirror piece. In other words your new piece will be backwards to the original.
Example as follows -
New wood face down and original face up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165132.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165132.jpeg)
Outlined and cut - mirror image/piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165143.jpeg)
Remember - FACE DOWN and FACE DOWN.
More in a few.
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 28, 2018, 04:37:44 PM
I wrote a dissertation about your problems with the design yesterday.....but the forum decided to crash while I was previewing the post.....so no post. :-[ Oh well.. ...I'll tell you about it tomorrow when I bring the goodies. :D
Greg,
Not problems so much as my observations of models in general.
See ya tomorrow.
Tom ;D
In cutting the front wall, I cut it in one piece. However, in looking at Jasons model, you can see a red separation between the top of the first story and the bottom of the second story.
Here is my new cut piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918153926.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918153926.jpeg)
In order to make my model the way I intend, I needed to cut the top portion off.
The next photo shows how the 4X4 looks between the top of the bottom wall and the bottom of the top wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918153938.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918153938.jpeg)
More in a few.
On my model, I don't intend to have any of the second story (Utility Shed) on Jason's build hang over any portion of the bottom walls.
With this in mind, I used portions of the Utility Shed walls to make my upper/second story structure.
I cut a gabled end wall, placed the shed front wall over it and marked where I wanted the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154002.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154002.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154017.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154017.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then cut out the opening for the windows.
I used the original windows that came with the utility shed for the openings. However, I cut my new walls a little higher than the shed walls. When I inserted the windows, I thought they looked to small.
I then enlarged the window openings and used new Grandt Line windows.
Original window on the left and new window on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918153950.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918153950.jpeg)
Now both ends have slightly larger windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154033.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154033.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time folks, back in a few.
I then cut the back wall of the second story. I marked the angles of the rear roof line as shown in the photo below.
As you can see, I cut in the windows an equal distance from the side and also to not interfere with the rear roof line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154048.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154048.jpeg)
More in a few.
On my model, I opted to not have the loft door or hoist on the second story substructure.
I cut the front wall to the same height as the rear wall shown above. I then marked where I wanted the windows and door. Instead of a storage area, my second story will serve as an office or small apartment area.
I marked on the rear of the front wall where the door and windows need to be cut.
The three dark lines are the center line for the door in the center and the center lines of the two windows.
The pencil points to the center of the window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154115.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154115.jpeg)
The next photo shows the pencil is pointing to the height of the window. In this case it is 6 boards from the bottom of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154126.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154126.jpeg)
More in a few.
Again, using the lines on the back of the new wall, I cut in the opening for the second story door.
For the door, I used a different Tichy door with a transom window above the door for extra light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154136.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154136.jpeg)
For the front windows, I chose to go with Northeastern HO scale wood framed windows. These are referred to as 4X2s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140626.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140626.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The window openings were cut, from the rear, and smoothed with an Emory boards. My #11 blade needed to be changed and I didn't, so the cut was a little rough. Lesson learned, again. :-[
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154205.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154205.jpeg)
Here is the second story front wall section with door and windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154148.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260918154148.jpeg)
More in a few.
Okay, all walls for the second story are now cut and door and windows fit for test purposes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140540.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140540.jpeg)
The main first floor walls are finished and door and windows installed for test purposes.
Happy to say all fit as planned. Check!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140603.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140603.jpeg)
More in a few.
I attempted to use blue painters tape to hold it together to show how it looks. The tape must have been old as it didn't hold very well but I think you can get an idea how it is going to look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140641.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140641.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140653.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140653.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140707.jpeg)
I used the small ponce wheel from Micro Mark and added the obligatory nail holes to the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140720.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140720.jpeg)
More in a few.
Bracing, in fact, extra bracing was added to the back of all walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140735.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918140751.jpeg)
More in a few.
After all the bracing was glued and dry, I chose to add some A&I for the first coat.
I used Hunterline Driftwood and Light Gray A&I as samples.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165052.jpeg)
Light Gray on the left and Driftwood on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165105.jpeg)
More in a few.
I decided to go with Hunterline Light Gray for the wall stain.
It goes on dark but dries much lighter. Here the walls have been dry for a few hours. It also better shows the nail holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165119.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280918165119.jpeg)
I've made no decision on the small substructure to the right as shown in Jason's build.
Also, I will use white for the main color but as yet haven't decided on the trim color.
A word/thought on the second story door. The door will be accessed by scratch built exterior stairs. I may bring them down straight or use a corner landing and take the stairs down on the right lower wall.
I'll hopefully have new updates in a few days.
Tom ;D
Looks awesome. You're almost as quick as Greg building this structure.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on September 28, 2018, 07:44:55 PM
Looks awesome. You're almost as quick as Greg building this structure.
Thanks Curt, appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Very clear explanation of the changes you are making to Jason's kitbash. I really like the choice of the second floor windows and door. The two pane transom and twin upper panes of the windows give that wall some character.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on September 29, 2018, 08:28:13 AM
Tom,
Very clear explanation of the changes you are making to Jason's kitbash. I really like the choice of the second floor windows and door. The two pane transom and twin upper panes of the windows give that wall some character.
Jerry,
Thank you for the compliment, much appreciate it. I think you'll really like how I finish the second story.
Tom ;D
Another awesome thread to be bookmarked. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Uncle Tommie,
This is so cool! I just wanted to let you know that I will be placing an order for this kit this week.
So I guess you could say for buying another kit,
Opps, I did it again!
Quote from: Dave K. on September 30, 2018, 07:43:11 AM
Another awesome thread to be bookmarked. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
Thank you and happy to have you along on this adventure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on September 30, 2018, 01:55:29 PM
Uncle Tommie,
This is so cool! I just wanted to let you know that I will be placing an order for this kit this week.
So I guess you could say for buying another kit,
Opps, I did it again!
Cousin Brucie,
Thank you my friend, much appreciate your support on the build.
This kit has so many possibilities and you won't be unhappy for having it. Well, maybe in getting another kit. Can't tell you have many OOPS I have under the layout in the kit stash! :P :P
Hope all is well. 8)
Tom ;D
I knew my main color was going to be white so I went with Floquil Reefer White. However, I thinned the reefer white down quite a bit.
I went with my white wash of 60% thinner to 40% reefer white.
I chose Polly Scale DTI Cherry Red for the trim, doors and windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153724.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153724.jpeg)
More in a few.
Two coats of the white wash were applied to the walls. I allowed the first coat to dry but not cure. In other words, I applied the second coat of white wash about 10 hours after the first coat. It will take a couple of days for the white wash to cure thoroughly.
First coat of white wash -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153643.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153643.jpeg)
Second coat of white wash -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153700.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153700.jpeg)
More in a few.
All doors and windows were painted full strength with the Polly Scale DTI Cherry Red. I hand painted the red on the doors and windows as I was just to lazy to bring out the air compressor to spray them.
I applied two coats as the doors and windows were three different colors off the sprues. The two coats covered all the pieces for one looking color.
After the they were dry, I dry brushed them with Testors Driftwood Wash. If you don't have any of Testors Driftwood, GET SOME.
It is a great product to have for washes and color. I got mine at Hobby Lobby for $6.49, 1fl. oz. I didn't have any discount coupons and it was the only bottle left. My Babe got me another bottle for $3.50 with a store coupon.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153736.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153736.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153748.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153748.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here are the doors and windows painted in the red color with the driftwood dry brushing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918162101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918162101.jpeg)
Here is a shot of the door and windows in place on two wall sections. They aren't glue in at this point. Window glass needs to go in next.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153800.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153800.jpeg)
More in a few.
All walls set and left to dry/cure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153713.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153713.jpeg)
Kenny includes in the Goober's Garage kit two sets of doors.
The doors on the left are how they come in the carrier. Carefully cut the two door frames from the carrier, remove the backing (they are peal and stick doors) and place the frame over the door.
TAKE YOUR TIME here as I believe you have only one shot in getting them lined up.
The two doors on the right are how they are supposed to look after adding the frame to the door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153811.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300918153811.jpeg)
Once you have them assembled, take an Emory board or medium grit sandpaper and clean the edges. I waited until the two parts were together as they were stronger as one, instead of individual sections.
More updates tomorrow.
Very nice Tom. With the Testors driftwood applied it almost looks like boxcar red to my eye.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 01, 2018, 11:16:56 AM
Very nice Tom. With the Testors driftwood applied it almost looks like boxcar red to my eye.
Curt,
Thanks, it does appear the reds dry darker than when first applied. I tried boxcar red, tuscan, freight car red and oxide red. They all were to dark for the look I wanted.
Caboose Red and Signal Red were just to bright for use on the model.
The DTI Cherry Red looks blood like in color until it dries. Once the driftwood wash was dry brushed on, it appeared slightly darker still.
Tom ;D
Prior to gluing the front second story wall onto the bottom, I added the 4X4 horizontal board to the top of the bottom wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165738.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165738.jpeg)
When dry, I glued the second story wall onto the top of the red 4X4. I then used weights to hold it in place until the walls dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165724.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165724.jpeg)
After a few hours, I removed the weights.
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165752.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165752.jpeg)
I forgot to take a picture of this but I added more vertical bracing between the two floors for more stability.
I then added the vertical corner trim to the three edges of the front wall section.
Be sure to make a clean cut for a nice clean fit for the corner trim as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018174758.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018174758.jpeg)
More in a few.
In the next photo, you can see the vertical trim posts glued to the wall edges. One long piece is the correct way to add trim to these wall edges. Nice tight trim makes for a better looking model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018175223.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018175223.jpeg)
Here the door and windows are test fit. I needed to file a few openings as the thinned paint made the wood swell.
All fits now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165823.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165823.jpeg)
More in a few.
I added trim around the bay door as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165837.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165837.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
While some of the red trim was drying, I reopened the nail holes. After three applications of the thinned white wash, the nail holes all but closed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165947.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018165947.jpeg)
Fast forward a few hours and all the trim has been glued to the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170001.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170001.jpeg)
More update tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks for following along.
Okay, well I have a few more minutes after all.
Normally this is the time I would add signs to the walls. Since this is an auto repair service, it appears all the signs are either porcelain or tin signs. None appear to be painted wall signs.
So, time to glue the walls together.
Two corners were glued together. Not shown is the fact the walls were weighted and checked with a metal square to ensure the walls were in fact square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170023.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170023.jpeg)
I don't plan on adding interior details or lighting the inside but I painted the interior walls flat black anyway. I used Tamiya Flat Black.
When the black paint was dry the walls were glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170046.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170046.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170101.jpeg)
You know me, just checking to make sure all is on the level. :P
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170115.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011018170115.jpeg)
Okay, back tomorrow afternoon for sure.
Nail holes might reappear with only an Alcohol & Ink wash.
dave
Great modeling Tom. The colors work well together.
Looking good my friend.
Jim
Quote from: deemery on October 01, 2018, 07:16:41 PM
Nail holes might reappear with only an Alcohol & Ink wash.
dave
Dave,
They probably would have but I already reopened them. Will show that later in the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 01, 2018, 08:09:28 PM
Great modeling Tom. The colors work well together.
Curt,
Thank you, I'm happy with how the colors turned out.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on October 02, 2018, 01:06:15 PM
Looking good my friend.
Jim
Butty Jim,
Thank you kind sir, much appreciate you checking in.
Tom ;D
Not sure anyone noticed but on Jason's kit bash the main structure is set on a stone foundation. It's hard to see with all the junk and details around the building.
KC's Workshop did include a stone foundation in the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018165856.jpeg&hash=d996eaaaeae183a401908b8c483b4fa4615620ff)
I stained it twice with Testors Driftwood and let dry. When dry I applied a final stain of Hunterline Light Gray A&I.
Hard to see the driftwood stain in the next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018165925.jpeg&hash=edb54f0a6665fee7421dfeda41ed6e0d4f087ba7)
More in a few.
Here is a better view with the two coats of driftwood. It absorbs it like a sponge.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018165911.jpeg&hash=168f81a9384429a6a92dc95402746582e7b8ab7a)
Continued after cropping a few more photos. I forgot to do them.
I needed to add a HO scale 4X6 under this side wall section. I'll paint it white but most of this wall won't be seen when the side roof is installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018170129.jpeg&hash=33488bb035d2b1eef90462f16c48d6cd65825cc4)
I also needed to add the interior wall roof support of the back roof.
I placed the upper rear wall against the rear gabled end and used a pencil to mark the angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018170143.jpeg&hash=9ed6a0d47acdc7643e7c2db7bfc907b3503ca9e2)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018170156.jpeg&hash=188b6a8e5817b4fd45f1f87e9484584ff7195c11)
Remember this piece? It's the gabled end of the front wall with I removed it to add the second story.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018170225.jpeg&hash=5d40da07c8bf61019454c19d3d48eeef693c7160)
More in a few. Diet Pepsi time - again! :P :P
I glued 10X10s to the rear and cut the excess off following the angle of the roof line.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-011018170211.jpeg&hash=68d243713a421879233f3538d9104cbbc98dc68d)
I then glued this piece to the rear wall flush with the pencil lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-021018161503.jpeg&hash=c616e013b5e385ee5d796db22b930e6eaff93238)
Note that in the photo, this piece looks lower than the left gabled end. It isn't!
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-021018161535.jpeg&hash=1c9dd752bd1ca13babe68a2e2d5c177ec2231893)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-021018161548.jpeg&hash=0086aba851cfb15be78bc1ac6c407532529ec577)
Living in Florida we have a bit of humidity at times. Often, when working in the train building, I don't run the AC or heat.
I don't want any surprises with any roof sags, so, I added more bracing for the roof panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-021018161425.jpeg&hash=8237fcd6e2f31888ef33ab26501c72f903a766bd)
Up next are the doors and windows.
Tom,
As usual, a well documented step by step thread. This is going to be a real attention getter on your layout.
Hey Tom:
It is looking very nice so far. Keep the pics coming.
karl
It's starting to look like a building..... ;)
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 03, 2018, 08:03:02 AM
Tom,
As usual, a well documented step by step thread. This is going to be a real attention getter on your layout.
Jerry,
Thank you, I appreciate you following and posting your comments.
I think the fun part is just starting.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on October 03, 2018, 08:19:46 AM
Hey Tom:
It is looking very nice so far. Keep the pics coming.
karl
Karl,
Much appreciated as always. More photos this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 03, 2018, 08:25:06 AM
It's starting to look like a building..... ;)
Greg,
Thank you, yes, finally it's starting to take shape.
Tom ;D
I reopened the nail holes and using a 4-0 (0000) brush, applied a very little amount of Hunterline Light Gray A&I to the nail holes.
The doors and windows were glued in place at this time as well.
I did a good job of lining up the nail holes in the front but not so good on the sides.
Roof and wall signs and other details will help cover this mistake.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174124.jpeg&hash=f48add6bed52dfc23b27611b152b281ed2418dd8)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174138.jpeg&hash=1a168f36d747b3ceac2e605cc5c9899c62b093f1)
More in a few.
You may have noticed the screen door on the second story. This is one of KC Workshops's screen doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174005.jpeg&hash=e5658d9c0c44b73b8a86da1bb99e7c5cdb8f008d)
I didn't use KC's screen material as I have some I like much better. It is very fine silver ribbon purchased from Joan's Fabrics.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174224.jpeg&hash=59bac5297cbea5b5f8783c29cf945d6df28856ef)
More in a few.
I painted the door to match the trim color and when dry, glued a piece of screen material to the back of the door.
When the glued dried, I used a new #11 blade to trim the screen material from around the edges of the door.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174024.jpeg&hash=9ae3711e9e0b8bf62a7781bbe07898bb56fdb202)
I painted the door hinges and handle with Floquil Brass. The door was then glued to the door frame as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174110.jpeg&hash=319fc63cd5a716d4bf679a08e7453b933d6d2c4c)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
On a few random boards on the front, I removed some of the clapboards and replaced them with HO scale 1X4s.
I used a new #11 blade, cut a vertical cut in the clapboard and then using the side of the blade cut under the clapboard.
I then cut a horizontal line on the top of the board. Now it can be removed. A new 1X4 was cut and glued in place where the one was removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018180309.jpeg&hash=9fae8483013a5c4cd9b93eccb3cc9df09d4893e1)
Notice the fan in the window? This is a Vectorcut product. Unfortunately, Vectorcut isn't currently making any of his items available due to a family issues. I think his mom got sick.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174318.jpeg&hash=8e40252c68151ac7b04c49270a6acc11b9bb00c1)
No, that's not paint on the window glass but the wavy gallery glass picking up a reflection from the window panes.
More in a few.
I decided to use KC's Workshop stone foundation. I measured the walls and used a single edged razor blade to cut A 90 degree angle at each corner. The material was very easily cut with the razor blade.
You can also see the stone foundation in the above photo as well as the ones below.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174252.jpeg&hash=54f92ea11f8f9d9a9971d7a0739180de3b284653)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174305.jpeg&hash=b0b9c5bd7f45a5836aa981121e2a7029fd8faf18)
I plan to light the the front wall only. I'll add a goose neck to the top door and the lower bay door.
Signs are a consideration next also but I first need to add more detail prior to adding the signs. I need to make sure this detail won't interfere with the signs and visa versa.
I'll get into this during the next post.
Tom, continues to look great. That screen door treatment is very convincing. I'm enjoying watching the build.
Tom
Fantastic work! Love the details.
Tom,
I'm very much enjoying the entire post and techniques. The replacement boards and the screen door are impressive. Fantastic work!
--George
Excellent Tom.
Tom,
Looks great! I was a little dubious that the white walls with red trim might look a little garish. Not so, your choice of the red to use was perfect
IMO
.
Another pet peeve of mine are structures that lack a foundation. Kudos to Ken for including such a nice one with this kit. Your use of stain rather than paint on the foundation is something I will have to try.
FWIW, I have started adding the nail holes after I paint the walls rather than before. I have found the paint swells the wood and closes the nail holes. I end up doing them again just as you did with this build.
Tom,
Looks good....did you use the Hunterline full strength when redefining the nails holes?
Doug
Quote from: vinceg on October 03, 2018, 06:43:42 PM
Tom, continues to look great. That screen door treatment is very convincing. I'm enjoying watching the build.
Vince,
Thank you. The screen door by KC really adds to the over all look of the model. Happy you are enjoying the build thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on October 03, 2018, 07:09:33 PM
Tom
Fantastic work! Love the details.
John,
Thank you kind sir. As you say, "It's all about the details."
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on October 03, 2018, 08:33:02 PM
Tom,
I'm very much enjoying the entire post and techniques. The replacement boards and the screen door are impressive. Fantastic work!
--George
George,
Thank you for the kind compliment on the build and techniques. I've done the replacement boards on other models and it adds another look to the model. Again, thank you.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 03, 2018, 08:51:37 PM
Excellent Tom.
Curt,
Thank you as always my friend. Much appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 04, 2018, 08:34:08 AM
Tom,
Looks great! I was a little dubious that the white walls with red trim might look a little garish. Not so, your choice of the red to use was perfect IMO
.
Another pet peeve of mine are structures that lack a foundation. Kudos to Ken for including such a nice one with this kit. Your use of stain rather than paint on the foundation is something I will have to try.
FWIW, I have started adding the nail holes after I paint the walls rather than before. I have found the paint swells the wood and closes the nail holes. I end up doing them again just as you did with this build.
Jerry,
Thank you for the compliment. I was a little concerned about the red as well. I've never done a white structure with red trim, ever. I liked Jason's build so I decided to give the red a try. So far, on my model it's working. Not sure I'll ever do another one though in this color scheme.
There weren't many structures in the south with stone foundations but I decided this would give this model a different look than most of my other models on the layout.
Reference nail holes, I started a few years ago of adding them prior to paint and then again lightly redoing them after painting.
Tom ;D
Quote from: NKP768 on October 04, 2018, 11:31:59 AM
Tom,
Looks good....did you use the Hunterline full strength when redefining the nails holes?
Doug
Doug,
Thank you for the compliment, much appreciated.
Yes, the Hunterline added was full strength right out of the bottle. If you ever choose to use this method, use a very small tipped brush as it is easier to control in the nail holes.
Tom ;D
Time to build the second story porch/balcony. I wanted to do this so I had a better look at where the main signage would look the best.
I made a small little deck using some scrap scribed siding and built a 2X6 frame around it as shown. It is 4.5 ft. wide and 15.5 feet long.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174331.jpeg&hash=1dee732ca487e48fa0bcb1b428045deeaff41cc3)
I supported the scribed siding by adding three short pieces of 4X4.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174343.jpeg&hash=126254dd8eeb55e00f35084e4ed5df878cafc117)
More in a few
I glued it under the door frame and to the left just at the edge of the red trim.
I used metal squares to make sure it dried level and perpendicular to the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174355.jpeg&hash=1a5e2e54e80e1a10c947319fd423d97b365cc76c)
While that was drying, I started to make some staircase stringers out of HO scale 2X12s.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-031018174409.jpeg&hash=0799b2c833b7cfce4e9961056b7f6b318d3f9ee7)
More on this in the next post.
Several companies make laser cut stringers and steps but I didn't have any on hand so it was necessary for me to make my own.
A forum supporter, Rusty Stumps, makes them. Others do as well as I mentioned.
To make mine, I cut halfway into the 2X12 at a 45 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141451.jpeg&hash=3b0e6695eaef2ef8fbba0344e1ed18a27eae1658)
I then cut from the tip of the inside cut to the edge of the next cut in line. All at supposedly a 45 degree angle.
Here are two I cut. I cut the bottom first and used it as a pattern to cut the second.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141505.jpeg&hash=cfc27163a5d3bf381bd2ecddb9e626f0cc8f942c)
More in a few.
NOTE: When gluing the two stringers to the model, make sure you glue them as they were cut.
In the next two photos you can see the two stringers I cut on top of each other. The second photos shows the two stringers with one flipped over. As you can clearly see, they don't and won't work this way.
Again, they need to be inside to inside to each other. I made a small pencil mark to indicate the inside of each stair stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141519.jpeg&hash=e06d0228a3e417bec673950f28c9a12da707ba13)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141534.jpeg&hash=5988fa404cb73c8e3b0bc7015551628c23ddece3)
Diet Pepsi time, back after grabbing a cold one. :P :P
Okay, back to my 2nd. story deck. It is dry and level, thankfully.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141405.jpeg&hash=8576fb5c0d831824952b5100d8e3951183ee5ab4)
I cut three 4X4 posts and glued them vertically to the front outside wall. These of course are attached in theory to the interior framing of the front wall prior to the siding being nailed on.
I then cut three 4X4s to use as diagonal support posts for the decking.
I drilled #78 holes and added N&Bs to the vertical and diagonal 4X4 posts.
The three N&Bs on the bottom of the vertical posts aren't glued and were removed so the diagonal brace supports could be added.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141433.jpeg&hash=58a4463c18892cda978384e7141ca836469ecf68)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141641.jpeg&hash=3c4383ac8a68334e7001818bc60fdff949a6b6ca)
Did I mention level is a very good thing when building second story decking?
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141716.jpeg&hash=1f5651e8c0966fa8167bf78edb55dcfdd043506a)
Time to crop and all more photos, back in a little while.
You can glue your stringers to the front wall using different methods. Here are two I've used on past models.
You can first glue a 2X12 to the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141549.jpeg&hash=7394a1a66568c251abe3050bd3f348aa90db54df)
You can then glue the stringer against the 2X12. Or you can glue the stringer to the 2X12 and then glue the sub assembly to the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141606.jpeg&hash=1137cba70932d7875d9d7f28a911a7b399e71fa6)
More in a few.
I cut a third stringer, glued two together and glued this double stringer to the wall as shown.
I did stain and paint them first.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141619.jpeg&hash=bd091e9759aec83a0bf871f49f3c9ac9b20e6821)
Back in a few. Need a break.
I wanted to use 4X4s for the railing posts. However, I didn't want to cut 4X4s to the size I needed. Here is what I did.
I stained and painted a few lengths of 2X4's and set them aside to dry. When dry I cut them to what I needed.
I cut ten pieces 3.5 HO scale feet in length and cut ten pieces 4.0 feet in length.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151520.jpeg&hash=9029fda2efbc274deaa56477bf95bb4d1ac4ea15)
I then glued one piece of 3.5 2X4 to the 4.0 2X4 as shown. I made sure they were flush on the double 2X4, now 4X4 ends.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151534.jpeg&hash=8c0c9f9baeca2e2c38f3d5fa8c41f0003d77de2d)
More in a few.
Here is what the modified 2X4s look like glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151627.jpeg&hash=a8ebcdb3d025183266f2cfb84d62d724b0f31f78)
Keep in mind the deck is framed with a 2X6. The HO scale inches of 6, now fits flush over the outside of the deck.
I glued the corner one in place and then added the front corner post. I made sure the post was vertical until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151640.jpeg&hash=92fe015e8ab5686ba4a5e095cbf7547ee631bc8d)
More in a few.
I let some glue get tacky and then glued the outside stringer to the edge of the deck.
I used a block to support the stinger until it dried. I added a few steps to the stringers as it dried for stability.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018141731.jpeg&hash=8e2c384fa08816aa528f2ac806709fab99b17497)
When the staircase stringers were dry, I added the rest of the steps and added a 4X4 support post under the staircase.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151549.jpeg&hash=d8f177710bbd8a7a20366926a3cb5162769af5e4)
More in a few.
I added the rest of the deck railing posts to the deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151653.jpeg&hash=36050c21cf80993a458f9d1fe0a5f9362af0dfcd)
This whole process required a large bottle of Diet Pepsi to keep me focused. ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151709.jpeg&hash=52a8826d9e0bfa4f827e04e7dbde03701b915d35)
More in a few.
I added the top railing using 2X4s and the middle railing using 2X2s.
I then added the N&B to the bottom of the posts as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151835.jpeg&hash=ac16f1ae0c481222ef71d56ef19b6ea7d8c27cb8)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151849.jpeg&hash=7915a17f92d425f5e8cb75446db16a0f944760ca)
Tomorrow I'll add a corner landing and take the stairs down by the right wall and in front of the windows.
All is well and good, even level.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-041018151808.jpeg&hash=3e016b6f63ef7f1acc845adfa6342f479c08246c)
Done for the day and not only that, I'm finished.
Not only is your modeling skill up with the best , your how to's and way of sharing them is appreciated dearly Tom, thank you very much.
Watch out for that last step coming down from the second floor.....it's a doozy. ;D Give the inspector enough cases of Diet Pepsi and he might pass the stair inspection "as is". ;D ;D ;D
Tom, it all looks awesome and fantastic, BUT, my bad knee would not let me take that first step. I need a step ladder to get started.
Jim
It all looks amazing. I don't think anything you build would dare to be not level and square. ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on October 04, 2018, 04:38:43 PM
Not only is your modeling skill up with the best , your how to's and way of sharing them is appreciated dearly Tom, thank you very much.
Jan,
Thank you for the very kind and generous compliment on the build. You are very welcome or your thanks on the "how to's". I very much enjoy sharing with others the things I've learned over the years from other modelers.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 04, 2018, 04:48:48 PM
Watch out for that last step coming down from the second floor.....it's a doozy. ;D Give the inspector enough cases of Diet Pepsi and he might pass the stair inspection "as is". ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Thanks for stopping by. Yes, that last step is a doozy for sure. I'll finish the stair case rather than give away any of my Diet Pepsi.
Tom 8)
Quote from: jimmillho on October 04, 2018, 08:40:00 PM
Tom, it all looks awesome and fantastic, BUT, my bad knee would not let me take that first step. I need a step ladder to get started.
Jim
Jimbo,
Yea, the last step is a bad one for anyone's knees.
Thank you as well Butty Jim for the kind remarks.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 04, 2018, 10:12:21 PM
It all looks amazing. I don't think anything you build would dare to be not level and square. ;)
Curt,
Thank you as always my friend. I hope it is all square and level. But then again my little level may be off level and I just think its level. :P :P
Tom ;D
I have a confession to make. I didn't work on the layout or this kit bash at all today.
I took the day off to catch up on my reading and even bought a new Clive Cussler book start.
Every so often I find I just need to take a break. Funny thing is it is never planned. I came out this morning, posted I was working on the layout. I sat at the workbench and said, "Nah, not today".
I should have a new update Sunday afternoon.
Tom 8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 05, 2018, 05:15:49 PM
I have a confession to make. I didn't work on the layout or this kit bash at all today.
I took the day off to catch up on my reading and even bought a new Clive Cussler book start.
Every so often I find I just need to take a break. Funny thing is it is never planned. I came out this morning, posted I was working on the layout. I sat at the workbench and said, "Nah, not today".
I should have a new update Sunday afternoon.
Tom 8)
Clive Cussler -- I did a lot of his audio books long ago when I was doing some work that required a lot of windshield time. Good stuff. I find the Jonathan Kellerman books to be fun, too...especially the audio books performed by John Rubenstein.
Good for you Tom.
Tom
The build is going great and we all need a day off once and awhile. Even if we are spending our days building a model railroad empire. ;) :-[ I hope you come back from your little break inspired.
I get so many tips from your posts Tom - great looking build . Enjoy the well deserved time off.
Doug
Looking good, Tom.
Just catching up after the death of my hard drive and a few days off line. I'd like to see you balance a tube of liquid that size on a real porch 2 by 4 railing! Somehow I don't think it would stand the weight! Re the stringer cutting - I use a Campbell plastic one as a template for cutting out timber ones. I just tape the two together at one edge.
Nail holes - its been my experience when building and renovating that these are hidden by the build process whenever possible to cut down on work (filling) and fixing. So generally nail holes running up the side of windows and doors run up the opening studs, and then the window and door facings are nailed in place over the top of these nails. Likewise on the corners. The 6 by 6's we put up the corner in the modeling world actually represent 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with the weatherboard profile cut out the back of the last couple of inches. Again, these are put on after the weatherboards, and so there are generally no nails visible there as they are hidden under the facings. In modern building the practice is simpler, but similar. 6 by 1's are used and just nailed straight over the weatherboards and scribers are cut from 1/2 by 3" timber (or something similar) and nailed against the 6 by 1's to keep the weather out.
I went looking online and found this excellent site copied below. I found sketches about what I'm talking about under 'wall cladding - original details' and then clicked on 'more' when I got to the timber cladding part. Anyway - a wealth of information here with all sorts of proper building practices along with historical information. I have been thinking after you starting this thread - we should make a thread for links to correct prototype practices. In that way we could all access information about areas we weren't sure about easily and quickly.
https://www.renovate.org.nz/villa/walls-and-cladding/wall-cladding-original-details/
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: vinceg on October 05, 2018, 06:12:54 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 05, 2018, 05:15:49 PM
I have a confession to make. I didn't work on the layout or this kit bash at all today.
I took the day off to catch up on my reading and even bought a new Clive Cussler book start.
Every so often I find I just need to take a break. Funny thing is it is never planned. I came out this morning, posted I was working on the layout. I sat at the workbench and said, "Nah, not today".
I should have a new update Sunday afternoon.
Tom 8)
Clive Cussler -- I did a lot of his audio books long ago when I was doing some work that required a lot of windshield time. Good stuff. I find the Jonathan Kellerman books to be fun, too...especially the audio books performed by John Rubenstein.
Vince,
I've read all of Cussler's books and this one is the latest. I've also heard some of the audio books and like you say, they are good for traveling. I'll check on the Kellerman books. Rubenstein is a great one for the audio books.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 05, 2018, 06:52:13 PM
Good for you Tom.
Thanks Curt, in fact, I took two full days off from the layout and kit building.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2018, 07:30:16 PM
Tom
The build is going great and we all need a day off once and awhile. Even if we are spending our days building a model railroad empire. ;) :-[ I hope you come back from your little break inspired.
John,
Thanks, ever so often I just don't do anything in the train building. Today, I'm back at it.
Tom ;D
Quote from: NKP768 on October 06, 2018, 12:44:51 PM
I get so many tips from your posts Tom - great looking build . Enjoy the well deserved time off.
Doug
Doug,
I'm happy you are getting some tips from the build threads. We are here to share ideas and I've picked up some great tips here as well.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask or email me. If I don't know, I'll get the answer.
Tom ;D
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 06, 2018, 11:58:20 PM
Looking good, Tom.
Just catching up after the death of my hard drive and a few days off line. I'd like to see you balance a tube of liquid that size on a real porch 2 by 4 railing! Somehow I don't think it would stand the weight! Re the stringer cutting - I use a Campbell plastic one as a template for cutting out timber ones. I just tape the two together at one edge.
Nail holes - its been my experience when building and renovating that these are hidden by the build process whenever possible to cut down on work (filling) and fixing. So generally nail holes running up the side of windows and doors run up the opening studs, and then the window and door facings are nailed in place over the top of these nails. Likewise on the corners. The 6 by 6's we put up the corner in the modeling world actually represent 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with the weatherboard profile cut out the back of the last couple of inches. Again, these are put on after the weatherboards, and so there are generally no nails visible there as they are hidden under the facings. In modern building the practice is simpler, but similar. 6 by 1's are used and just nailed straight over the weatherboards and scribers are cut from 1/2 by 3" timber (or something similar) and nailed against the 6 by 1's to keep the weather out.
I went looking online and found this excellent site copied below. I found sketches about what I'm talking about under 'wall cladding - original details' and then clicked on 'more' when I got to the timber cladding part. Anyway - a wealth of information here with all sorts of proper building practices along with historical information. I have been thinking after you starting this thread - we should make a thread for links to correct prototype practices. In that way we could all access information about areas we weren't sure about easily and quickly.
https://www.renovate.org.nz/villa/walls-and-cladding/wall-cladding-original-details/ (https://www.renovate.org.nz/villa/walls-and-cladding/wall-cladding-original-details/)
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Thank you for the thumbs up on the build. Also, glad you are up and running once again.
I have to agree with everything you've said above. I think the "Father of Nail Holes" is George Sellios, not sure. From time to time on this forum and the other one, we've had discussions about nail holes. I think I just got in the habit of adding them. I have several older structures I've done over the years with no nail holes. On a model only a few randomly spaced nail holes should be seen if you are modeling an older wood structure.
For this build, I'm guilty of implausible construction. If this structure actually had this many nail holes showing, it would be near ruin and uninhabitable.
On actual wood sided building, the siding and corner trim wouldn't be flush as we see on our models. The siding would be at 90 degrees to each other and covered with the desired 1X's for trim.
For a trim of 1X4 on one corner, the other corner board would actually be a 1X3 butted against the inside of the opposing 1X4, thus you have a 1X4 corner trim on both corners.
I've seen many different types of corner trim depending on the contractor builder and desired look. They range form 1X4 up to 1X8 or even 1X10.
I've saved the link you listed for future reference. I agree, I'll put his in a thread.
I certainly appreciate the input, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Won't jump in on the nail hole discussion.....in the real world, I used to use 2x lumber for the corner, window and door trim when I designed a structure with lap siding. It gave a bit more dramatic look than 1x trim. Just a thought..... ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 07, 2018, 12:25:03 PM
Won't jump in on the nail hole discussion.....in the real world, I used to use 2x lumber for the corner, window and door trim when I designed a structure with lap siding. It gave a bit more dramatic look than 1x trim. Just a thought..... ;)
Greg,
Thanks for the input and feel free to add your thoughts to the prototype building link thread.
Tom 8)
I eased back into the kit bash this afternoon. I need to get these stairs finished for those that are vertically challenged like Jim Miller.
I started with the stair landing and some support posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-071018164804.jpeg&hash=30100ce87eb371c74c6094fe3af9750e737c46ae)
Not to much to explain here as it is all much the same as the other stair case.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-071018164819.jpeg&hash=9db5084c6b1cea6bc94c4ae1e833d59d57915242)
More in a few.
Hand rails and side rails added.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-071018164832.jpeg&hash=3da27114bedfc55ee975f70f076b6b835011b531)
I added a few signs to the front. Notice I had to cut the Lubrication Service sign to get it to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-071018165722.jpeg&hash=8384f32559568cc1029a6bb5767d171487bf1b25)
The signs on the right are newer and will be just slightly weathered.
Tom. Looks great. Jim
The staircase is looking great Tom and nice choice of signs.
Wow! Awesome project Tom. Those stairs are quite complex but they look beautiful.
Btw, my kit arrived last week. Now if only my order of 27 cases of Diet Pepsi would arrive I would be ready to start the kit....
Guzzle, guzzle guzzle.
Tom,
Once again following your thread has paid off in a modeling trick I can use. I love how you use a level to check your work on the outside stairway. I really need to remember that next time I build something similar. It looks much faster and more accurate than taking multiple measurements, my usual method.
Quote from: jrmueller on October 07, 2018, 06:17:45 PM
Tom. Looks great. Jim
Jim,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment and following.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Janbouli on October 07, 2018, 07:50:18 PM
The staircase is looking great Tom and nice choice of signs.
Jan,
Thank you for the compliment and following along. I have a few more signs that will go on the back wall and side roof.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on October 07, 2018, 11:58:55 PM
Wow! Awesome project Tom. Those stairs are quite complex but they look beautiful.
Btw, my kit arrived last week. Now if only my order of 27 cases of Diet Pepsi would arrive I would be ready to start the kit....
Guzzle, guzzle guzzle.
Bruce,
Thank you for the generous compliment, appreciate it.
Glad to hear you have another kit in the works. If ya need any Diet Pepsi, come on down, I have plenty for us both. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 08, 2018, 08:35:33 AM
Tom,
Once again following your thread has paid off in a modeling trick I can use. I love how you use a level to check your work on the outside stairway. I really need to remember that next time I build something similar. It looks much faster and more accurate than taking multiple measurements, my usual method.
Jerry,
Great to hear you have a new trick to use. I can't tell you how many I've learned from other forum members.
The small level is great to use and have. I got it at Ace Hardware a few years ago. I check the level and if off, I make the adjustment while the glue is setting and go from there.
Tom ;D
The stairs are finally finished, YEA!
It required much patience and a lot, and I mean a lot of Diet Pepsi.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018144253.jpeg&hash=ed179e802b3ba4f52511b74c7bf38c73c8527e8a)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018144307.jpeg&hash=da2043911f0a2d89ca6927b821cf632644d51b91)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018144321.jpeg&hash=438a7bab22074d4364bee38eaa420794e478dea3)
WOW Tom, those stairs look awesome.
I cut new roof panels from my supply of card board.
When I worked at the State Attorney's Office, I would make monthly runs to the 155 prosecutor's offices. I inquired if their legal pads were almost empty. I got several dozen the first try and prior to retirement, they just started putting them on my desk. In the end, I had so many I had to throw them out.
Anyway, I have enough for a few lifetimes.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018144336.jpeg&hash=0816702e8da8a87ea6d4b668f3b0e8cff128990a)
The roof panels are just placed on the building and not centered.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018144349.jpeg&hash=881f3aa2816d30bf6e6dc03fc336e41266895fd1)
Curt,
Much appreciated my friend, thank you. And, I'll add that I'm very glad they are finished. :P :P
Tom ;D
I was gong to use KC's awnings for the second story front windows. However, I decided they were a little to big and it would be just to much red and white.
I will add that had I not built the stairs, the awning would have looked much better.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018144403.jpeg&hash=e2ce8b846f7203656554427a3074f2238a3b2b6f)
I still have several details to add so that will take some time to finish.
Jason's kit bash also has a sub assembly building on the ground level to the right of the main structure. This small building fits to the right rear and flush with the rear corner trim. If you are building his version, it also covers the two right side rear windows.
On my version, this small building will be a stand alone one. Also, I wanted to change the roof line to a gabled one. I used the walls in KC's kit and re-cut my own walls.
In the photo below you can see the original walls on top and my walls on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018162138.jpeg&hash=664f376205e023d5ba09c2462b10e65bd92e4772)
Door and windows fit as tested.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-081018162152.jpeg&hash=e2a4335457235944c349cdfcaef3a7083390e490)
The roof pitch on mine is to steep. I used the original wall and the steep pitch came from the end wall in the top right of the first photo. My two end walls will have to be fixed.
More in a few.
I told Greg my gabled walls looked like a witch's hat. 8) He suggested a way to change the pitch and I did.
I used the end wall from the utility shed and traced the edges of this wall onto my walls.
The end wall on the left has a shaded area. This portion of the wall needs to be cut off.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130407.jpeg&hash=a2ac78c749e66fd4c6b8e49d7f3faf48a5ca0ebe)
After cutting that portion off, you can see the gable pitch is much less.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130422.jpeg&hash=0d4572fb766dce2f9d3e682e15c07cea57f8eebb)
I removed the witch's hat from the door wall as well. Thanks for the help Gregory.
Back after grabbing a Diet Pepsi.
Not shown here is the fact I braced and stained the small building walls. When dry, I added a white wash and set them off to the side to dry and cure.
KC has included in the kit many signs. One in particular caught my eye. It is the T I R E S sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130434.jpeg&hash=cb27990dbc98b88c38bd7eb66427881edea04105)
I cut the whole sign out and using white glue, glued the entire sign to the piece of thin cardboard. I let this dry for several hours.
Yep, I forgot to take photos of this step.
When completely dry, I used a new #11 blade and cut out the five individual letters from the cardboard backing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130447.jpeg&hash=5873ae77bbb6a7975ac65886ee77995b810dee98)
More in a few.
Here is a side view of the letters showing the cardboard backing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130506.jpeg&hash=37ba70df5d90e1d8f2986b60b83f61dd6987f8e8)
To seal the letters, I painted them with full strength white glue (not shown) and let dry.
I then painted the letters with full strength Floquil TTX Yellow.
More in a few.
You're most welcome..... :)
I stained some HO scale 3X3s and let dry. I used a 2X12 and taped one 3X3 above and below the 2X12.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018161651.jpeg&hash=60a8e9e04682958aef1dfe6532a15836a87f40d9)
I then carefully removed the 2X12 and glued the letters onto the 3X3s.
Fast forward and here is my roof top sign. This sign will be placed on the sloped roof on the left side of the larger building.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018161706.jpeg&hash=54431771ce5430c6180ef1277d77c9f91cd4b1c9)
Hopefully more tomorrow afternoon.
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 09, 2018, 04:20:22 PM
You're most welcome..... :)
Its good to have great friends. Much appreciate the help on the walls.
Tom ;D
I'm still working on the kit bash but don't have any photos loaded or cropped. I'll have an update tomorrow.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Say your project is looking good. You also are in competition with Karl for the energizer bunny award.
Wow, just wow.
Looking good Uncle Tommie! That's going to be one awesome garage when you get it all put together. Only trouble I see is I think they are going to put the little bakers garage out of business.
Quote from: sdrees on October 15, 2018, 10:18:55 PM
Hi Tom,
Say your project is looking good. You also are in competition with Karl for the energizer bunny award.
Steve,
Thank you and I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on October 17, 2018, 12:40:36 AM
Wow, just wow.
Looking good Uncle Tommie! That's going to be one awesome garage when you get it all put together. Only trouble I see is I think they are going to put the little bakers garage out of business.
Cousin Brucie,
Thank you, very much appreciated. There are so many junker cars in Tahope and surrounding counties that there is business enough for many "fly by night" repair joints. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
I started adding roofs to the structure.
I added a 2X8 trim board to the upper side walls as shown. It is installed over the corner trim to the left and cut off even with the corner trim on the right side. This board was not weathered as these boards typically don't get wet of sun weathered/beaten.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018152906.jpeg&hash=a1c80fe46a037cff071e71994f9ba4ad5d5dc055)
I added a 2X8 to the outside edge of the roof panel for the lower left roof. This was glued to the side of the panel and flush with the top side.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018152851.jpeg&hash=e92e82ecdbf21c20ace03c948a6cc2134165867c)
More in a few.
I cut this exterior rafter at a 90 degree angle to the side of the building. I used a metal square to make sure it is at the 90 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018152920.jpeg&hash=8cbaeb0975fd3d99e086ffb627779dbfd61add19)
I made marks on the underside of the roof panel and drew lines every 18 HO scale inches for the rafters/rafter tails.
I painted white over the unpainted card stock roof panel and then redrew the lines.
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More in a few.
I need 15 rafter tails for this section of roof. I didn't have a rafter tail template so this is how I made them all the same length.
I marked in pencil the angle of the exterior rafter. In the photo below I'm using a 2X8. The vertical pencil line on the underside marks the outside edge of the wall.
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I made the cut on the end of the 2X8 but will make all the rafter tails from HO scale 2X6s.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153022.jpeg&hash=b6eb69b59843839c9f43cb713be84b4baf392145)
I made a cut on the 2X6 from the angle of the 2X8. I overlaid the 2X8 on the 2X6 to make the cut.
More in a few.
I then placed the 2X6 under the exterior rafter to make the second/outside cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153037.jpeg&hash=a2a22cc37aaca454f2595d37014f00f7c72a5696)
Here is the rafter tail I need for the rest of the underside of the roof panel. I need 15 just like this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153055.jpeg&hash=46b0d20b5786730fddc1f15dbc8b47fc9151773c)
More in a few.
Take the rafter tail and place it over the 2X6 and make the cut on both ends. Actually, you only need to cut one end as the other end is already cut to the correct angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153110.jpeg&hash=987b0ea3ad633e1c9a9fdffd8f86b716bde9af4b)
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Back after getting a cold Diet Pepsi.
After cutting the 15 rafter tails, I glued them to the underside of the roof panel and over the pencil lines. Make sure you don't glue them on or behind the line. If you do, the roof won't fit on the walls.
At this point you can leave the white on the underside or paint it the trim color. Don't just leave it unpainted. I've seen many a good model ruined, including manufacturer pilot models, with unpainted underside roof panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153140.jpeg&hash=6ec1bad14e8a97ff499f4f4314a6dd8d05119f8d)
In my case, I chose to paint the underside the same color as the rafter tails and rafters, Polly Scale DTI cherry Red.
Here is how the exterior rafters and rafter tails look after being added to the model.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153200.jpeg&hash=cc475850a71a5d0433ca90a194262e4756100bdc)
More in a few.
I also finished the small side garage. The four walls were glued together and the windows and door frame were installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153300.jpeg&hash=8b2748e71fdb008542336cd692464fa9f3562aab)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153317.jpeg&hash=56a97b4c6c7cb16244b854ad16bfb9a5691561f6)
More in a few.
The main garage door is one from Tichy.
I used a new #11 blade and removed the double bay doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130523.jpeg&hash=5ff12eed7e380928ce27b98ff9946f49a2b62704)
I then scored the doors down the middle, made a cautious bend and broke them in half.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-091018130535.jpeg&hash=c0154be5faa324a4b6f7cca34610fa6765fd9d63)
More in a few.
I used 1/16" plywood and made a pattern to represent a concrete floor for the garage. I painted the floor with Floquil Aged concrete.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153331.jpeg&hash=dac19ebd0d068dddd2e47713a264fe0aa929cac0)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153344.jpeg&hash=6975b14552325f8e22b80ea244d57a2871c6bdbe)
More in a few.
In this photo you can see the two bay doors in place, not glued yet, but painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153400.jpeg&hash=eb0424a55c8686e1538fb31bde721bbb959f78e2)
The door and windows still need to be dry brushed and weathered.
The floor was glued in place. I used Floquil Pine Tar Oil for the stain on the floor. This is from one of Floquil Marine colors.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153415.jpeg&hash=eb30c19ecb0cff23f874b946a5752c7b55ec0806)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153428.jpeg&hash=6ba42b86b531451203eac01f211f7931baf5be06)
I noticed after gluing on the roof there was a very slight bend in the short wall above the roof line.
I used a small Quick Grip to hold the roof and wall in alignment while the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-171018153243.jpeg&hash=83560da7c636aee6aa07b7b8dbad9024e91ae59b)
Luckily, no rafter tails were broken with the Quick Grip.
Great modeling Tom. I honestly thought you were done with this build.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 17, 2018, 05:03:37 PM
Great modeling Tom. I honestly thought you were done with this build.
Curt,
Thank you as always, much appreciate you following. There is much more to go on this one prior to the start of another. The "other" is one I'm anxious to get going on so I'm trying to finish this one. Hopefully, I'll have it done by the week end, meaning Sunday at the latest.
Tom ;D
Looking good! I'm looking forward to the "other" one too. ;)
I like the change to an additional service space Tom.....excellent. 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on October 18, 2018, 07:34:52 AM
Looking good! I'm looking forward to the "other" one too. ;)
Bob,
Thank you, yes, the next one will definitely be a fun build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 18, 2018, 08:30:04 AM
I like the change to an additional service space Tom.....excellent. 8)
Greg,
Thank you. You knew I had to put my own spin on the kit bash of the kit bash. ???
Tom ;D
I finished all the roof panels including exterior rafters and 96 rafter tails. I still need to add more signs and roll on the rolled roofing material.
This morning I cut holes in the left roof panel for the TIRES sign. Once the rolled roofing is on, the sign will be glued in place along with more diagonal bracing for sign support.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018164914.jpeg&hash=0b28ff078411ff70881e75f0b750e29fc2138e36)
The middle roof panel was next. Once glued in place I used the squares to hold it as the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018164930.jpeg&hash=21fe11ab37009a96f33df7a92a441814f6b72e0b)
More in a few.
I then glued on the end exterior rafters. Once these were dry. I trimmed them along with the rafter tails.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018164945.jpeg&hash=72fd1812c8941230f8b17d9caa5d4421a0a8f7c4)
The second story roof was the last one to do on the main structure.
As you can see below, I glued the rafters tails in place prior to gluing on the roof. Adding the rafter tails here is much easier than attempting the job once the roof is glued on. The exterior rafters will be glued after the roof in secure.
Notice the rafter tail are longer than the others. These will be trimmed after the roof has been glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165005.jpeg&hash=add9d9d175fbde5104a4e2a1653a66ebd7c48a1e)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165018.jpeg&hash=3cb0a1f21290c6d74497e2ef50585c3a91e1689e)
The roof is glued in place and you can see the rafter tails.
Not shown here is the fact I added the end exterior rafters to the roof panel. I then trimmed all the rafter tails and end rafters.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165037.jpeg&hash=ded54b2b1668f195ee652394913eb199fe9a79cd)
More in a few.
Rafter tails trimmed.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165052.jpeg&hash=123ffee8205fa4ac39ea86a6542a095b3b47a7e8)
Exterior end rafters added.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165108.jpeg&hash=47ff110aa26dbdacbeea7c391444a25d6f8c9974)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
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Trim added to the garage.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165143.jpeg&hash=beae5541dcc34600e30319f0c2594e625e6dadd7)
Roof panel, exterior rafters and rafter tails added as well as an LED interior light. The goose neck light is nonoperational.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165202.jpeg&hash=0b5293a2435c8ac2c586f503cd45f496ec977322)
The warm light LED is to blue so it will get replaced later as I get around to it. Oh wait, I had a round, round to it. However, I threw it out.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-181018165223.jpeg&hash=c8b96522260afab783722f992bf6fddfd6aae917)
Rolled roofing is next. Hopefully, I get it all done tomorrow.
Really nice Tom.
Looks fantastic, Tom. Just the right amount of weathering for a functional, thriving business.
I guess you don need another "Round to it" :o :o :o :o
Good looking Kit bash, of a Kit bash, of some FOS Kits.
Jim
Quote from: vinceg on October 18, 2018, 06:46:00 PM
Looks fantastic, Tom. Just the right amount of weathering for a functional, thriving business.
Vince,
Much appreciated, thank you.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on October 18, 2018, 08:36:33 PM
I guess you don need another "Round to it" :o :o :o :o
Good looking Kit bash, of a Kit bash, of some FOS Kits.
Jim
Jim,
Thank you Butty. By the way, these are KC's Workshop kits.
Tom ;D
Today was spent pretty much finishing the main structure.
I used the roofing paper Kenny supplied with the kit. I used Floquil UP Harbour Mist Gray for the rolled roofing paper. It was painted on the paper full strength.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171448.jpeg&hash=e4c6c51116c95bed735a69efc418ed850fb1c7e4)
When dry, I used the lines on the obverse side and cut the roofing strips.
Once cut they were glued to the roof using Elmer's glue stick. This works well and I've never had any rolled roofing papers come off later down the road. Some of my roofing paper has been on the building for years with no issue. Of course, you can also use the double sided tape. I was just in the mood for this glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171448.jpeg&hash=e4c6c51116c95bed735a69efc418ed850fb1c7e4)
I applied the middle or rear roofing in the same manner as the one shown above.
More in a few.
Several years ago Bob Van Gelder offered his shingle sheets on a first come first served basis. I was fast enough with the email and got ten sheets.
Only six are shown but I have four more - somewhere.
I wanted a different look for the second story roof so I used the shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171408.jpeg&hash=d137d483f5fe8be1d377f8a427b5f8dd903293e4)
The shingles were cut to size and glued to the front and rear roof panels. I only needed one sheet as it covered both front and rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171526.jpeg&hash=5c365cbe6795acb416200eb2b175fd3a248ba535)
More in a few.
For the ridge, I separated two rows of shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171544.jpeg&hash=6b31895e40d35f4251b54486d123598a4f759440)
I then cut individual shingles from the two rows.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171559.jpeg&hash=16e26f84f0f3d8d85bb61a25dc96d3b185572096)
More in a few. I need to get a cold Diet Pepsi to keep me going.
These were bent, one at a time, and glued, one at a time, to the top of the ridge.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171614.jpeg&hash=1da600605b8c0db91948119ecec80182524f7c98)
Finished after an hour or so.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171630.jpeg&hash=8f22c835b4a81f384e4a2dbb529a738fc6dc991b)
Notice the four darker rows, this is the first step in weathering the shingles.
More in a few.
I used Prismacolor pens for the weathering. They are alcohol based and are sold at Sam Flax and other artsie type stores.
They go on dark and dry much lighter.
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I used five different colors for the upper roof.
PM-114 Cool Grey 70%
PM-112 Cool Grey 50%
PM-111 Cool Grey 40%
PM-80 Putty
PM-197 Tea Green
After applying the colors I used the flat side of a #17 Xacto balde and upturned a few shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171808.jpeg&hash=08d04ae16c58e287b2d09542e2c2e4f291f70bcd)
More in a few.
Here is a better view of the shingled roof.
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I then added the TIRES sign, two vent stacks and one chimney. I also added the tar where necessary. A few more signs were added as well.
When I saw this next photo, I panicked and thought the TIRES sign dried crooked. I checked and it the straight up and down, it is the angle of the picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171838.jpeg&hash=a166cb507fe1e0ae27899cf483f58f32f8fafd2c)
The kit is now basically finished. I still need to add rolled roofing to the small garage but for now I'm calling this kit bash of Jenson's kit bash finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171855.jpeg&hash=38a15f03f495e91d1ccb49a08bdcc42f4b59f0a1)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018171946.jpeg&hash=47f08d7c29358b4f110040ee4d24610cc994797d)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018172000.jpeg&hash=160e749a5cf83d38301df9484de62415b2c42a6b)
Great work tom , I really like the looks of this.
I forgot to add I weathered the roofs with PanPastel artists pastels.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018172015.jpeg&hash=96b1eb898514f69de348cff7c7574c57aff191ee)
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Quote from: Janbouli on October 19, 2018, 06:04:44 PM
Great work tom , I really like the looks of this.
Jan,
Thank you very much. Glad you like the end product.
Time to move to another kit.
Tom ;D
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(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-191018172055.jpeg&hash=bce9c2bd4637baac7524a73fd79d58d0bd5f1d0c)
Now, some thoughts on the build and kit.
I'm really in awe of Jason and his creative idea in making the three KC's Workshop kits into one beautiful build. I really like how he made it look like a building that was added on to over the years. All the signs and tall KC roof sign really set the kit apart from our normal looking structures. Thank you Jason for you creative thinking on this one. Yes, I agree, you do love signs.
As soon as I heard Kenny was going to offer this kit as one, I jumped on it and got it in the mail in just a few days.
I wanted to put my own spin of the structure and yet wanted to keep the same type theme for it as well. You know me, I like to change things up a little in my builds.
I ended up re-cutting all my own walls. I didn't start or intend to do this it just ended up that way. I liked Goober's Garage so I made my own walls for the Jenson building.
I didn't want to use board and batten walls on the second story so I ended up cutting my own walls for that one as well.
Since I scratch built the stairs, I couldn't place the garage up against the main structure. I re-cut some new walls to change the roof pitch on the garage. This was basically an easy build. The hardest part was scratch building the two wall stairs.
I haven't ordered any details from Rusty Stumps but will in a few days.
Lastly, I'd like to thank Ken Crump, Mr. KC's Workshop owner, for offering this great kit in a kit form.
Thank you all for following along. I hope I gave credit to the build in keeping it basically the same as the original Jenson's kit bash with my own version of creativity added to the build..
Tom ;D
Another beautiful build Tom. You are a building maestro.
Yes, looks great. Very credible structure, too. Thanks for sharing.
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 19, 2018, 06:23:46 PM
Now, some thoughts on the build and kit.
I'm really in awe of Jason and his creative idea in making the three KC's Workshop kits into one beautiful build. I really like how he made it look like a building that was added on to over the years. All the signs and tall KC roof sign really set the kit apart from our normal looking structures. Thank you Jason for you creative thinking on this one. Yes, I agree, you do love signs.
As soon as I heard Kenny was going to offer this kit as one, I jumped on it and got it in the mail in just a few days.
I wanted to put my own spin of the structure and yet wanted to keep the same type theme for it as well. You know me, I like to change things up a little in my builds.
I ended up re-cutting all my own walls. I didn't start or intend to do this it just ended up that way. I liked Goober's Garage so I made my own walls for the Jenson building.
I didn't want to use board and batten walls on the second story so I ended up cutting my own walls for that one as well.
Since I scratch built the stairs, I couldn't place the garage up against the main structure. I re-cut some new walls to change the roof pitch on the garage. This was basically an easy build. The hardest part was scratch building the two wall stairs.
I haven't ordered any details from Rusty Stumps but will in a few days.
Lastly, I'd like to thank Ken Crump, Mr. KC's Workshop owner, for offering this great kit in a kit form.
Thank you all for following along. I hope I gave credit to the build in keeping it basically the same as the original Jenson's kit bash with my own version of creativity added to the build..
Tom ;D
Tom
First Spectacular build ! I just love it can I use some of your photos of your version at the Expo ?
Second I agree Jason has a wonderful eye for seeing the forest thru the trees so to say with his bashes
Third as for the B&B should have mentioned it I would have cut yours in clap ( hey you forumites don't ever be afraid to ask if Ican accommodate you I WILL)
lastly the castings on Jasons build are from Rusty Rails not Stumps if you're looking for the ones he used
also everyone stop by KC's tables at the Expo and check out Jasons wonderful kitbash of these 3 kits in person photos don't do it justice !
Tom, I enjoyed following along and like the results. Nice job with so many details. Thanks for sharing.
--George
Tom, that turned out nicely, not that I was expecting anything less from you. 8)
Jeff
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 19, 2018, 06:47:04 PM
Another beautiful build Tom. You are a building maestro.
Curt,
Thank you my friend, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: vinceg on October 19, 2018, 07:55:47 PM
Yes, looks great. Very credible structure, too. Thanks for sharing.
Vince,
Thank you for the kind compliment. This was an enjoyable build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on October 19, 2018, 09:39:52 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 19, 2018, 06:23:46 PM
Now, some thoughts on the build and kit.
I'm really in awe of Jason and his creative idea in making the three KC's Workshop kits into one beautiful build. I really like how he made it look like a building that was added on to over the years. All the signs and tall KC roof sign really set the kit apart from our normal looking structures. Thank you Jason for you creative thinking on this one. Yes, I agree, you do love signs.
As soon as I heard Kenny was going to offer this kit as one, I jumped on it and got it in the mail in just a few days.
I wanted to put my own spin of the structure and yet wanted to keep the same type theme for it as well. You know me, I like to change things up a little in my builds.
I ended up re-cutting all my own walls. I didn't start or intend to do this it just ended up that way. I liked Goober's Garage so I made my own walls for the Jenson building.
I didn't want to use board and batten walls on the second story so I ended up cutting my own walls for that one as well.
Since I scratch built the stairs, I couldn't place the garage up against the main structure. I re-cut some new walls to change the roof pitch on the garage. This was basically an easy build. The hardest part was scratch building the two wall stairs.
I haven't ordered any details from Rusty Rails but will in a few days.
Lastly, I'd like to thank Ken Crump, Mr. KC's Workshop owner, for offering this great kit in a kit form.
Thank you all for following along. I hope I gave credit to the build in keeping it basically the same as the original Jenson's kit bash with my own version of creativity added to the build..
Tom ;D
Tom
First Spectacular build ! I just love it can I use some of your photos of your version at the Expo ?
Second I agree Jason has a wonderful eye for seeing the forest thru the trees so to say with his bashes
Third as for the B&B should have mentioned it I would have cut yours in clap ( hey you forumites don't ever be afraid to ask if Ican accommodate you I WILL)
lastly the castings on Jasons build are from Rusty Rails not Stumps if you're looking for the ones he used
also everyone stop by KC's tables at the Expo and check out Jasons wonderful kitbash of these 3 kits in person photos don't do it justice !
Ken,
Thank you, very much appreciate your support on the build and my version. And, again, thank you very much for offering the kit bash as a kit in itself.
You may use anything on the thread you need, narrative or photos. Please help yourself.
I didn't think of asking for the walls to be re-cut, but I will certainly keep that in mind.
I have no idea why I typed "Stumps" instead of Rusty Rails, senior moment. I'll stick with that one reason. I did make the change in my narrative above.
I won't be at the EXPO this year but will look forward to the next one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on October 20, 2018, 05:23:35 AM
Tom, I enjoyed following along and like the results. Nice job with so many details. Thanks for sharing.
--George
George,
Thank you for the kind compliment and for following. I'm happy you like the results. It was a fun build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 20, 2018, 07:31:22 AM
Tom, that turned out nicely, not that I was expecting anything less from you. 8)
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you, much appreciate the compliment. Not all my builds turn out as planned. Just so ya'll know.
Tom ;D
Well done Tom.....can't wait to see it on the layout. 8)
Just one word......."Awesome Build". OH wait, that was two words. I guess I can't stick with one word.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on October 20, 2018, 10:35:26 AM
Just one word......."Awesome Build". OH wait, that was two words. I guess I can't stick with one word.
Jim
You bet.....you do tend toward the loquacious end of the spectrum
. ;D ;D ;D
I've always wanted to use that in a sentence. ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 20, 2018, 10:04:24 AM
Well done Tom.....can't wait to see it on the layout. 8)
Greg,
Thank you, it does look better on the layout than on the workbench.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on October 20, 2018, 10:35:26 AM
Just one word......."Awesome Build". OH wait, that was two words. I guess I can't stick with one word.
Jim
Jim,
Thank you my friend. I appreciate your support.
You can cut it down to one word by leaving off one word. Preferably by leaving off the word "Build". ;D ;D
Tom 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 20, 2018, 12:26:44 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on October 20, 2018, 10:35:26 AM
Just one word......."Awesome Build". OH wait, that was two words. I guess I can't stick with one word.
Jim
You bet.....you do tend toward the loquacious end of the spectrum. ;D ;D ;D
I've always wanted to use that in a sentence. ;)
Greg,
Yes, Jim can be quite garrulous at times.
Tom ;D
OK, OK, I will try to use only one word next time
Jim
As promised, I did finish the small garage.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-261018202803.jpeg&hash=4104c737be407425d67558af2e576ed67c35b72c)
Looks good Tom.
Curt,
Thank you as always my friend.
Tom ;D
OK, trying not to be too wordy
GOOD
Jim
Great looking build. Learned a lot on this one. Plan to go through it again, lots of information to take in. Thanks.
Jim D
Quote from: Jim Donovan on October 26, 2018, 11:49:13 PM
Great looking build. Learned a lot on this one. Plan to go through it again, lots of information to take in. Thanks.
Jim D
Jim,
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the build and information.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on October 26, 2018, 10:19:43 PM
OK, trying not to be too wordy
GOOD
Jim
Atta Boy Jim !!!
Tom,
I like the little garage. The dirt along the bottom of the walls where the runoff from the eaves splashes onto the sides is a nice touch. I especially like the way you cut the doors apart. I'll have to borrow that for one of my structures. Love your modeling, I always learn something I can use. Thank you again for spending the time to post your modeling.
Some really nice building going on. May I ask how you made the roofing tar? Looks good.
Wonderful thread, as always. An online clinic.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Outstanding!
As always, another awesome build Tom! I look forward to seeing where you are going to place this kit on the railroad.
Hi Tom:
looks just great and will fit in on your RR just fine.
Karl
Tom,
Love your build. Your step by step is always rewarding
Thank you for sharing
Mike Sigmon
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 27, 2018, 12:43:28 PM
Tom,
I like the little garage. The dirt along the bottom of the walls where the runoff from the eaves splashes onto the sides is a nice touch. I especially like the way you cut the doors apart. I'll have to borrow that for one of my structures. Love your modeling, I always learn something I can use. Thank you again for spending the time to post your modeling.
Jerry,
Thank you. The dirt along the bottom is AK Interactive Light Slimy Grime. Cutting Tichy doors is easy to do and adds a little different detail to the model. You are welcome, I enjoy sharing what I do.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Lynnb on October 28, 2018, 09:21:12 PM
Some really nice building going on. May I ask how you made the roofing tar? Looks good.
Lynn,
Much appreciate the compliment, thank you.
The roofing tar is a product Reading Bob gave me. Its a Gallery Glass product called Simulated Liquid Leading. Very easy to use and eliminates the mix of glue and black paint.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on October 29, 2018, 06:07:56 AM
Wonderful thread, as always. An online clinic.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
Thank you, appreciate you stopping by and posting a comment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on October 29, 2018, 08:17:19 AM
Outstanding!
John,
Thank you very much my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on October 29, 2018, 08:39:35 AM
As always, another awesome build Tom! I look forward to seeing where you are going to place this kit on the railroad.
Bruce,
Thank you for the kind compliment. I'll be showing it later this year once I get some scenery in place.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on October 29, 2018, 11:12:43 AM
Hi Tom:
looks just great and will fit in on your RR just fine.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much. I do have a spot and will add many more details when it gets planted.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MASIGMON on October 29, 2018, 04:43:42 PM
Tom,
Love your build. Your step by step is always rewarding
Thank you for sharing
Mike Sigmon
Mike,
Thank you and I'm happy you are getting some information to use.
Tom ;D