Mark Dalrymple and I had a discussion about prototype building methods, mainly nail holes, corner, door and window trim.
We seem to get into the habit of adding nail holes all over the model. In reality, they wouldn't be seen on the corners or around doors and windows.
His comment is shown here on page 11 of my Jenson Kit bash.
http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=3898.msg104987;topicseen#new
We get in the habit of adding nail holes when in reality they wouldn't be seen on the corner or around windows.
Please feel free to add your prototype building link here.
Thanks for the info Tom. I've pretty much given up nail holes hands too shaking. Jim
To whom it may concern,
I think with where modeling is today a structure builder (albeit manufacture, scratch builder etc.) follow what George Sellios promoted. His modeling is based on old worn heavy weathering and most layouts are built to a much better upkeep standard.
So yes nail holes are nowhere to be found on new or modern structures. Yes if your structure is located in a part of the country where harsh climate is prominent and one doesn't have the means to yearly upkeep wooden structures, then one might find an abundance of the aforementioned topic.
Course less we forget, the art of putting nail holes on your structure is in fact a farce. By definition, nail holes means no nails in the holes correct? and if there are no nails every 24" (not 16") on each board, then what's holding up the clapboards? Just sayin'...
Thanx Thom...
OK. Since Mark appears to be correct that this thread has "gone off on a nail hole tangent", I'll use the opportunity get on my soapbox.
My comments are based primarily on the construction used to build my farm house. This house was built a few years prior to 1900. It features balloon construction. In other words, the studs go from the sill on top of the dry laid stone cellar walls to the plate under the eaves. It has roughly 8"x8" beams on top of the cellar walls, and solid corner posts that vary in dimensions but are roughly 6" square. A few of the studs are the full 16' height of the walls. These are spaced unevenly around the walls. In between is a hodgepodge of shorter studs. In some cases, a stud was spliced to the side of another to reach the full height of the walls. In other cases, two shorter studs were placed end to end with a splice piece added to one side to fasten them together. Sixteen inch centers? While in places there are studs on 16" centers, stud spacing varies from 12" up to 24". Some of the studs ran at a slight angle. Very few were plumb, square is not to be found.
The house was sided with clapboards 1/2" thick and 4" wide. These were nailed to the house with cut nails, so the "nail holes" were wider than high, not round. There was no sheathing under the clapboards. Can you say "drafty"? The clapboards were cut to end on the studs, in other words, they zigged and zagged back and forth to match the not straight studs. Originally the nail holes were filled with caulking. The paint adhered to the caulk differently, and much of it fell out, so my house did actually look like someone took a pounce wheel and randomly applied it to the walls. I so regret that I did not take photos while replacing the old siding with new sheathing and siding.
My point is simple. As modelers, to build a believable model, we have to understand the construction used in that era and area. That knowledge helps us build models that reflect the construction practices of the time and place we are modeling. Foundation materials, siding, and roofing all changed throughout the years and are often specific to the area we are modeling. My goal as a modeler is to understand what is appropriate for 1920 in upstate New York. If I get it right, I've done my job as a modeler.
OK, I'm off the soapbox, at least for a little while...
I love this stuff.......
This is how we make stuff better and modelers better. This conversation repeats itself every few years and is really necessary.
I agree with the entire text above regarding nail holes. I do not expect to see much of them when judging models. I DO expect to see NBW castings (metal or plastic ) where appropriate on bridges or the like. With that goes of course, suitable weathering of the castings.
To go in another direction however.......... the effects of nails..... not the holes..... can be rust streaks. Usually black when staining wood, typically they get a bit wider as they progress down the wall. More contributing nails and less shelter from eaves.
Below is a photo that I have put up before which shows the idea.
Thanx again for a great thread.
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F81-260414145217.jpeg&hash=89ff19fbd976c31baf7fd1755dc42029d4bfcd93)
I have done ONE scratchbuild of a hotel that I added "nail holes" before learning that in real life you can't see them anyways. Some kits already have the "nails" laser into the sidewalls. Bob's method of adding short rust streaks makes the most sense. I won't be adding holes to my siding anymore.
8)