This part of the forum is pretty quiet, so how about a place where modelers can post interesting prototypes, current modeling projects, photos of model cars alone or in settings, without committing to starting a new thread?
I'll start out with an HO scale ACF 70 ton covered hopper assembled just like Bowser made it. I wanted it weathered, but didn't have time to get out the airbrush, either to weather it that way, or to seal powders. So I thought about what I had on hand that looked like cement: Savogran's 'Wood Putty' (out of production, but Durham's Water Putty might work the same way). I shook some powder on and liked the way it looked spread around with a brush. Then I thought about bonding it: Water would set the product's glue base, but my sprayers were too coarse; they'd wash it away. But I have a teakettle. I held it by the couplers while turning it in the water vapor (not too close to the spout, you'll scald yourself). Once it was all wet and the powder looked like it had vanished, I set it aside to dry. 10 minutes later it looked like this, and the finish seems fairly durable.
James.
Very cool car and a great idea.
Thanx
Bob
James,
Very cool idea! I'd like to help add to this thread also. Here's a shot of a car I did a while back for a friend on mine who lives in Australia. If memory serves, I believe this is an HO scale Kadee welded steel sided box car. I hand weathered this car using solvent base paints, oils and powders. Besides the heavy weathering I also added custom made cut lever bars with brackets and underframe pull release air rods. Since the doors opened I remembered to detail and weather the inside as well so this model could be used in different photo poses. "variety- the spice of life". Can't wait to see all the cool freight car models to follow here! Thanx Thom...
That's a nice model. I saw a few pallets kicking around in empties back while some cars still had roofwalks.
But this made me think of something I've only seen one picture of, and never a model: the remains of a paper fumigation seal around a boxcar door. I presume it was for grain; I don't know where the Salem, MA yardmaster was getting the empties, but I saw them maybe once a month arriving for loading at the Owens-Illinois plastic bottle plant in Newburyport, MA. Anyone know more about them?
Here's an F&C resin Central Vermont 43,000-series boxcar with a raised roof that I finished decaling this week.
I was going for an older car for my era that's just been repainted. It makes a nice contrast to the heavier weathering on many of my cars.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-130714131513.jpeg)
Marty
Sunshine Models resin kit for a St Louis Southwestern (Cotton belt) 40-foot double-sheathed boxcar. As I mentioned in the baggage car the other day this one has been quite an adventure - see my blog for the full story of this car.
Started construction in October 2001
Finished it (after it languished in the box for a long, long time!) July 2014.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-130714132003.jpeg)
Nice work; it encourages me to see people taking the time to do resin kits of older cars. I have a number, my 1950s fleet will look better when they're operating, but that will take a while.
Here's an Funaro Bangor and Aroostook shingle sheathed boxcar(https://modelersforum.com/1-Vehicle%20builds%20003.JPG) Raymo
I drive by several tracks of the Indiana Harbor Belt every day for work. This was setting on a spur for a metal recycler and an oil refinery. I'm starting a project of this.
One of the clinics at the NER Regional Saturday was given by a lady who uses cosmetics for weathering in lieu of costly weathering powders. Couldn't attend due to schedule conflict, but a very interesting concept.
Great work James..... 8)
Great idea for a thread!
Quote from: jbvb on July 30, 2014, 05:26:02 PM
Nice work; it encourages me to see people taking the time to do resin kits of older cars. I have a number, my 1950s fleet will look better when they're operating, but that will take a while.
Thanks for the kind words James!
Marty
This is an Eastern Car Works kit built & painted for a B&M prototype. I used 26" wheels in the ECW trucks and filled the openings in the underside of the cast frame with lead shot and white glue so I could operate it empty.
Here is a very old, used but not abused ACL tank car in Taft, Fl. Taft is a few miles South of Orlando, Fl. This picture was taken in the late '60's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021014082146.jpeg)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 02, 2014, 08:25:21 AM
Here is a very old, used but not abused ACL tank car in Taft, Fl. Taft is a few miles South of Orlando, Fl. This picture was taken in the late '60's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021014082146.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021014082146.jpeg)
Tom ;D
Durn, you were just a toddler then, weren't you? ::) ::) ::)
Gman,
Yes, of course! Actually I was a Junior at U of F.
Tom ;D
I've always like the "little" ore cars from the iron range, but never thought of a way to justify their existence in southern Missouri. That is until I ran across these little beauties in Monett MO. They were being used on the Big Red Line out of Lincoln, Nebraska until the A&M out of Arkansas bought them for sand/gravel service.
Quote from: Oldguy on October 13, 2014, 05:12:38 PM
I've always like the "little" ore cars from the iron range, but never thought of a way to justify their existence in southern Missouri. That is until I ran across these little beauties in Monett MO. They were being used on the Big Red Line out of Lincoln, Nebraska until the A&M out of Arkansas bought them for sand/gravel service.
Cool, I have never seen them in prototype.
Hal
The A&M identified a nice business: The Army Corps of Engineers is obliged to keep dredging the Arkansas River so barges can get to Muskogee, so they have a lot of sand and gravel to get rid of around Ft. Smith. The A&M hauls it north into MO in these and other types of cars and sells it as fill & aggregate.
Seaboard Air Line PS1 boxcar. Spotted at St. Augustine, Fl., late 70's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030115080102.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040115081641.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040115081641.jpeg)
Seaboard doodle bug Tampa, Fl. early 60's.
SAL Baldwin switcher and Geep. I think it is Jacksonville, I don't remember.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040115170522.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040115170522.jpeg)
That Seaboard doodlebug is so ugly it's cool...
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on January 05, 2015, 05:52:41 PM
That Seaboard doodlebug is so ugly it's cool...
Thanx
Bob
I agree and it's more cool in the 1:1 world. This is the only one I've ever seen in person.
Tom ;D
SCL caboose and Geep on a Sunday morning in Leesburg, Fl. 1970.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060115083905.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060115083905.jpeg)
SAL caboose in Orlando late 60's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070115074007.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090115080912.jpeg)
Frisco Hopper interior -
Here's one of a N&W flatcar modified to move brand new MACK truck cabs from a factory in Ohio? to Allentown Pa. for completion.(https://modelersforum.com/1-mac%20cab.jpg)
Quote from: Raymo on January 09, 2015, 05:11:24 PM
Here's one of a N&W flatcar modified to move brand new MACK truck cabs from a factory in Ohio? to Allentown Pa. for completion.(https://modelersforum.com/1-mac%20cab.jpg) (http://modelersforum.com/1-mac%20cab.jpg)
Great photo Raymo!
Tom ;D
GP7 in Sanford, Fl. 1980.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100115072534.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100115072534.jpeg)
World War Two German tank being shipped to the Aberdeen Proving grounds.
Today's contribution is of a heavy mining dump truck on Ralph's beloved LV and a dump body and tires somewhere on the MO-PAC in the 1970's(https://modelersforum.com/1-img128.jpg)(https://modelersforum.com/1-img129.jpg)
Here's a ex B&M plow on the Montpelier and Barre in Vermont(https://modelersforum.com/1-mb%2027%20.JPG) (http://modelersforum.com/1-mb%2027%20.JPG)
Today's photo is of a 44 tonner being sent back to GE for a rebuild and to be resold.(https://modelersforum.com/1-0%20A%20FLAT-1%20...Waterbury.jpg)
SAL F7A in the Orange Blossom Special paint scheme. Date and location are unknown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160115094954.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160115094954.jpeg)
Dan, that looks like maybe a cylinder head and a piece of shop gear (a fixture to hold an engine block and rotate it?) sharing the flat car with the wreck-damaged 44-tonner.
Tom, I'm only mentioning it to avoid confusing the punters, but that's a nice photo of an E-7A.,
Quote from: jbvb on January 24, 2015, 07:10:37 AM
Dan, that looks like maybe a cylinder head and a piece of shop gear (a fixture to hold an engine block and rotate it?) sharing the flat car with the wreck-damaged 44-tonner.
Tom, I'm only mentioning it to avoid confusing the punters, but that's a nice photo of an E-7A.,
Thanks James,
The slide came out of a friends collection. I had a photo made from the slide and the date and location was unknown to him. He passed several years ago but I do believe he was the photographer.
Tom ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215082434.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215082434.jpeg)
Florida East Coast GP7 in New Smyrna Beach, Fl. circa early 70's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215131929.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215131929.jpeg)
Great photos... but the last few can only be described as strange freight cars!
My photo for the week, Allis Chalmers turbine car(https://modelersforum.com/1-img121.jpg)
And I might as well throw in some John Deere green(https://modelersforum.com/1-img%20138.jpg)
Quote from: CVSNE on March 12, 2015, 01:21:58 PM
Great photos... but the last few can only be described as strange freight cars!
Marty,
Yes, you are correct. I just got carried away!
Tom ;D
The 'panel side' version of Tichy's HO scale USRA 55-ton twin hopper:
I ran across this old B&M box car on a rainy day:
Here's a couple of shots of a B&M XM-1 outside braced boxcar. Second shot shows the detail of the "B" End.(https://modelersforum.com/1-img211.jpg)(https://modelersforum.com/1-img212.jpg)
(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/318273_4127325789903_1400708456_n.jpg?oh=51ba822a3f3718e2c8dda3718fc94702&oe=563320E3)
(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/65572_10200727312613626_1570073194_n.jpg?oh=bc2806b9d3661ef84f6ade2c2dca99be&oe=560052AD)
Longhorn, the sand car is clearly home-built, but whose stock car is that? Looks like HO scale.
The sand car is part of the HOn3 SierraWest Logging train,
The cattle cars are both HO Westerfield kits.
Thank you for asking :)
ACL Ditcher, Sanford, Fl.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131115100331.jpeg)
An Athearn HO ARA 70 ton quad hopper I redetailed and painted for the B&M:
Old baggage/mail car after the merger with L&N. Carries an ACL number of 1651.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116071752.jpeg)
Thought I'd add a few model pics. Thanx Thom...
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021016081158.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021016081158.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051116054605.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051116054605.jpeg)
Tom, did that hopper car haul something unusual, or was it a "one off" trial design. It's kinda peculiar.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 05, 2016, 07:58:54 AM
Tom, did that hopper car haul something unusual, or was it a "one off" trial design. It's kinda peculiar.
Jeff
Jeff,
The picture was taken somewhere near Richmond, VA. In South Central Florida the ACL used to haul thousands (CSX still does) of hoppers carrying phosphate from the mines. This car probably did some time hauling phosphate hence the white stains.
Interesting video below on the Bone Valley.
Tom ;D
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Hi all,
Haven't seem much added interest lately to this thread so I thought I'd share a rare wood kit project rebuild I started for Bagman and he'll finish for a team effort. Lots of custom parts added along with heavily modified kit parts for a special one off model. Thanx Thom...
Hi Thom:
Very nicely done. My favorite RR to. I modeled the NYC when I had a RR.
Karl
Thom,
Beautiful job on the caboose. Love the interior as well.
Tom ;D
Thom,
A question, where did you find the reference information for your creation? Nice work on the interior.
Bob
RWL,
Thank you for the compliment! The model is a rebuild of a rare laser cut wood kit or a rare caboose rebuild from the NYC System rr. of the low clearance plywood sided caboose rebuild program. I simply started tracking down pictures and written info from articles, books & internet on plywood sided cabooses, mainly on the NYC.
Then digging a little deeper I searched the internet and a couple books I have for pictures of caboose interiors. So, setting aside the interior for a moment. I followed the overall prototypes for the basic exterior (i.e. the kit mostly) and history of how, why, how long and why not for the series cabooses. Now for the modeling license.
Since I try to do custom work, working towards a one off or stand out or hopefully interesting not mundane model that attracts the viewer to beg a question to start a modeling conversation, and to hopefully peek a renewed interest to the owner. (That's my goal anyway)!
So keeping in mind this project was started by the customer, I repaired what was needed, I added my take with hopes of the customer to follow up with his final interior detailing designs for a team effort. (hopefully without him throwing it in the trash). ha.
I decided to turn to my modeling license and keeping the overall history of how they did things back then, and why they did what they did (costs). So I copied some pictures of interior walls of some cabooses and (knowing that in multiple railroad equipment consolidations and salvage vs costs of new replacement parts (furniture etc.) Which in turn allowed for many different interior designs.
I didn't really think to much of interior anything when modeling because mostly one can't see inside right. I thought all cabooses looked the same inside. Wrong! like locomotives and other rollingstock. Railroads custom tailored cabooses for their road, caboose type, style, order, series or even territory location preference and in some cases, the local crew even had a say in some of the needed equipment (benches, bunks, chairs, desks, tables, heating, air flow, and even decor. (i.e. posters, calendars, girly pics and even era advertising).
So now you know my train of thoughts. That's why I decided to treat this project as one would, if building a fine wood structure kit (because that's what this-not so cheap-kit is). So along with weathering each side a bit different (a maintained side and a harsher environment over time side). I made the roof removable, so as to show some different interesting possibilities a modeler might add when building their structure for their particular layout.
Some of the other details to look for added, to make things other than usual, are a conductor (making his rounds), a brakeman (reading the paper- I mean working hard at spotting hot box smoke etc.), a trainman (with his tools for changing out an broken knuckle or air hose), open cabin doors to help with ventilation, posters/etc. on the walls, modeled windows open with screens, closed window with a broken glass (which did happen for various reasons), fold a way work stations (desk/table),and still leaving room for the customer to add cabinets, bunks, stove, etc. for a personal modeling touch (and hopefully cast to add a little extra weight), maybe to even enter in a local modeling contest once completed for bragging rights. This is not your daddy's $3.00 plastic caboose. One thing to note: the lantern markers are removable and interchange to the other end of the car for operation also. Railroads didn't spend much cost/time turning cabooses like steam locomotives...
My goal was to simply come up with an out-of-the norm model to capture some interests rather than-jafo- just another freaking observation car. ha. hopefully I achieved that. Well, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it! Thanx Thom...
Thanks for the post Thom and your very detailed approach to the work done on my caboose.
Some background. The basis for the kit is from American Model Builders. Their kit has scribed sides but the New York Central System Historical Society had a special run made to represent a plywood side caboose.
I'm a member so purchased a couple.
The kit goes together relatively easily but care must be taken. You know what they say, "slow and steady wins the race".
I should adhere to that saying one day !
Thom has generously fixed up a lot of my errors and I am literally paying for my mistakes !
But that's ok because I'm ending up with a model that far exceeds my expectations when I sent it over to him.
Good man you Mr T !!
Here are some photos of the finished kit before I sent over to Thom.
Regards
David
Not sure if this link will work but check out the article by Seth Lakin.
I pretty much followed that article to build my caboose.
https://nycshs.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/nycentralmodeler_2015_1q.pdf
Regards
David
David,
I thought your caboose was an AMB model, it looked familiar, it is still being offered, but the society offering dried up as you said a few years ago. I bought the Central Hobby Supply version of the 19000 back in the 80s, I still have two that remain unfinished. I too am a NYCHS member, have been for 30 some years, your rendition of the AMB model looks very good, nice paint and lettering.
I remember the thread created by Tom Langford working on one of your engines, a G 46 I believe, the engine and caboose must look appropriate together. On another note the layout looks great also, the Ball Signal looks right at home at that junction.
Bob
Quote from: RWL on November 09, 2016, 07:35:57 AM
David,
I thought your caboose was an AMB model, it looked familiar, it is still being offered, but the society offering dried up as you said a few years ago. I bought the Central Hobby Supply version of the 19000 back in the 80s, I still have two that remain unfinished. I too am a NYCHS member, have been for 30 some years, your rendition of the AMB model looks very good, nice paint and lettering.
I remember the thread created by Tom Langford working on one of your engines, a G 46 I believe, the engine and caboose must look appropriate together. On another note the layout looks great also, the Ball Signal looks right at home at that junction.
Bob
Hi Bob
Thank you so much for your very kind words.
I'm looking forward to receiving the improved version of my caboose from Thom. He really is a master when it comes to detailing and weathering anything railroad related.
Speaking of which, Tom Langford did an outstanding re-work on my G-46. Brass steam loco's are very finicky to work with so Tom must have the patience of a Saint ! He really did an excellent re-build as it runs very smoothly. You have a very good memory !
I've found being a member of the NYCHS very beneficial even though I'm on the other side of the world. Lots of research available to those modelling the NYCS.
I'll post some more pictures once the caboose makes its way back Down Under. I'lol make sure the G-46 is included.
Regards
David
David,
The society has really improved in the last five years, both in management and technology. I appreciate the effort that goes into the e-magazine they have brought out and the content, it certainly is a boon to the NYC modeler.
I remember Tom's work on your engine, he and I conversed on it a couple of times, the G 46 is a very accurate model of the consolidation. You are correct Tom does do a fine job of tweaking those engines to running perfection.
One thing I don't understand about the caboose. Why would you want the exterior of the caboose (from the pictures you posted), nice paint, lettered correctly, representative of a well maintained piece of equipment, turned into a maintenance neglected, mis-lettered derelict piece of rolling stock? I am just curious to your reasoning, not being critical, just curious.
None the less, I will be looking forward to the pictures of both caboose and engine together on your layout in the future.
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[/size]Bob
I have no idea what is going on with paragraph spacing.
The last line was to read; None the less, I look forward to seeing both the caboose and engine together on your layout.
Bob
Hi Bob
Not quite sure what you mean by mis-lettered.
Sure the car number is different to that which appears on the layout photos, but I believe Thom had to do that due to issues of decal bubbles after I sent it to him.
As to the weathering I wanted the caboose to look like it has seen better days and was due for a refurb at the terminal shops.
Not dissimilar to this photo of # 19008.
Appreciate your comments and interest though.
Hi all-bob,
Bagman is right. To better answer your question, this is how I Thom (me) who does varied type-varied different work (custom) on any brass, cast, plastic, wood or scale (trains) developed into Thom'sCustomTrains came into being.
If one researches the web for someone to complete modeling work for them. One will find quickly that to find a complete any scale, any type, any era, any model, any medium to be able to perform any electrical work needed, any painting needed, any repair work whether or not soldering, gluing or parts build or added, well they are very few and far between. Honestly.
If one really looks at some of the 4,000 pictures I've posted on my website and study all as a whole. One might notice that every piece is different for different reasons. If one is really attentive one might ask how did Thom actually acheive some of the work listed.
I simply let each model describe how it wants to be. Many times I set out to do a model a certain way, but ending up having something different. One might ask why? I say ask Murphy!
Murphy just loves to help me out on so many projects and rather than spend more time and cussing trying to stop and change something back I just keep going forward and hopefully (usually) what I see, is what you see. I witness the model unveiling as the customer. ha.
So specifically addressing the wood caboose. I received a wood model that had some detailing that I didn't feel were to a preferred standard. (that's not to say any original work done before me is or was good, bad or ugly). I simply means that if a customer wants light weathering, will the broken or heavily glued part show up more as a distraction or enhancement?
I'm sure if I showed all projects with a before and after pic. If most likely would show why or how or what I did to arrive at the current location. However it might also show the skill level or even embarrass the owner. So for that I don't show the original project.
It's far better for me to show my completed interpretation of a project which easily shows my lack of skill or sub modeling to which a future customer could easily decide whether or not to avoid my humble services.
So the back story for this caboose is simple to me. Weathering is NOT painting. So it shouldn't be even or symmetrical or the same on either sides. (just like the prototypes). To go further. I learned from more advanced modelers as a kid, to letter wood with dry transfers not decals.
So why one side is decent and the other side is-not so much, is because of my best friend Murphy helping me and I only had one set of transfers on hand. Wow huh! ha. I only listed the caboose here to try to inspire wood structure modelers (on this kit forum) that a wood kit rollingstock is structure modeling also and here's my interpretation of one.
I don't count rivets anymore unless I'm absolutely instructed to build an exact model period. Which, let's face it... it costs more because of the exact time it takes for exact results. Hope this helps any confusion as to what or why. Okay go ahead and bitch slap me now, I can take it. ha. Thanx Thom...
David,
I want to clarify my statement of mis-lettered. My definition of mis-letterd is, the lettering on the caboose does not follow NYC prototypical stenciling practice neither of size, or placement, nothing more.
Bob
What are these boxes and what are they for?
Candy,
These are called open top containers or COFC's - Containers on Flat Cars. Open Tops are used for carriage of heavy, bulky or awkward items where loading or discharge of the cargo through end or side doors is not practical. Most open top containers are equipped with fabric covers and are often termed "soft" or "rag" top containers. Some open top versions are fitted with removable hatch-type panel covers or detachable full metal roof. They also carry contaminated sand or other loose materials. Hope this helps. Thanx Thom...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290117082635.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290117082923.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300117092042.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310117090856.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010217065408.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020217150930.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040217063311.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050217073901.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060217063709.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060217063709.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060217174727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060217174727.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070217155854.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070217155854.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090217062500.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090217062500.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100217063842.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110217060641.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217073303.jpeg)
Florida sun bleached 40' Florida East Coast boxcar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217082429.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217082429.jpeg)
Some how I managed to miss this thread over the past few months - very interesting find.
Tom, I thought I knew my '60s railroads, even most of the southeastern short lines. But you've got me on TABG RY (the bay window caboose and flat car behind it). I don't find it in on-line lists or my ORER. Unless that's a very odd 'C' in The Atlanta, Birmingham and Coast. Or what I see as 'B' is actually the ampersand in Tennessee, Alabama & Georgia.
Quote from: jbvb on February 13, 2017, 08:46:07 PM
Tom, I thought I knew my '60s railroads, even most of the southeastern short lines. But you've got me on TABG RY (the bay window caboose and flat car behind it). I don't find it in on-line lists or my ORER. Unless that's a very odd 'C' in The Atlanta, Birmingham and Coast. Or what I see as 'B' is actually the ampersand in Tennessee, Alabama & Georgia.
James,
The & does look like a B. The car is as you figured out is Tennessee Alabama & Gulf Railway.
Tom ;D
Georgia Railroad -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217112532.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217112532.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150217071343.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150217071343.jpeg)
Seaboard round top near Jacksonville, Fl.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170217200601.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170217200601.jpeg)
Tom,
Very nice to see all the great wonderful time capsule of freight car pics. I look at these and it brings me back to when I was skinnier and younger living in Jax/p-cola FLA. and seeing how (back then) the cars were old and rusty lookin'. ha. Thanks for sharing! You should put out a freight car book or something on these pics. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on February 18, 2017, 07:13:48 AM
Tom,
Very nice to see all the great wonderful time capsule of freight car pics. I look at these and it brings me back to when I was skinnier and younger living in Jax/p-cola FLA. and seeing how (back then) the cars were old and rusty lookin'. ha. Thanks for sharing! You should put out a freight car book or something on these pics. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Orlando, Tallahassee and Jacksonville were great locations to get photos of freight and passenger equipment. Today I see a train and it is so boring. I avoid them now but remember when I would sit and count the different RR names on the cars.
Times changed but not for the better for RR watchers.
Tom ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217071715.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200217080155.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217073946.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217073418.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217182448.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280217051617.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240217074444.jpeg)
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Such a great thread! Its nice to have these photos for weathering reference- thank you so much Tom!
Quote from: rpdylan on March 01, 2017, 12:37:04 PM
Such a great thread! Its nice to have these photos for weathering reference- thank you so much Tom!
Bob,
You are very welcome. I've been collecting loco, freight and passenger car photos for about 35+ years. Most were taken by me or friends. Some were taken off Ebay and others sent to me over the years.
I think I'll do a few passenger cars in a few weeks.
Glad you like the thread and photos.
Tom ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020317080654.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020317080654.jpeg)
Need to break up all these "southern" cars with a midwestern one. This CB&Q boxcar is especially for Tom, it even has his name on it! ;D
Jeff
Great looking boxcar if I do say so.
Love it Jeff, thanks. I've copied it to my file.
Tom ;D
Image saved off Ebay years ago.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030317184856.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030317184856.jpeg)
Orlando, Florida.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050317064342.jpeg)
Binghamton, NY
Chenango Forks, NY on the NYS&W, former Conrail line.
Found in Daytona Beach.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070317074007.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070317074007.jpeg)
Pennsylvania Railroad Museum, Strasburg, PA mid-70's.
Central of Georgia pulpwood and Apalatchiacola Northern caboose.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080317074552.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080317074552.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080317074534.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080317074534.jpeg)
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Southern PA, Lansdale maybe???
Back in the day when Erie Lackawanna, Lehigh Valley, and Delaware & Hudson served Binghamton, NY.
Old SAL round top in Taft, Fl.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100317080309.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100317080309.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110317051005.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110317051005.jpeg)
Near Waynesville, NC.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130317074258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130317074258.jpeg)
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Spotted near Thomasville, GA.
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Hi all,
A good friend on mine and a relatively new member to the forum Brian Kistenmacher sent me some photos of a log car he's working on. I thought it would be a lost modeling experience for the members not to see these pics of his awesome log car. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Beautiful modeling on the log car. I need to get some of those wonderful logs. Do you know where Brian got the logs?
Thanks for sharing.
I need 15! :P
Tom ;D
Waldo, Florida.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180317090200.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 18, 2017, 06:01:50 PM
Thom,
Beautiful modeling on the log car. I need to get some of those wonderful logs. Do you know where Brian got the logs?
Thanks for sharing.
I need 15! :P
Tom ;D
Tom,
Brian made them. He told me the logs are plastic, filled with plaster for weight, then textured with ground up tree bark. He might stop by and describe what all he did to achieve. Thanx Thom...
Hi Guys~
I sent Thom photos of the Kadee skeleton log car that I finished up this morning. He asked if he could post the photos. I said sure. Here's a brief description. I've always loved this car, ever since I saw an ad for one in MR back in the mid-60s. I was 13 when I built my first one, and a couple more since then. I'm 63 now and this is my latest interpretation of this fine model. The kits are all white metal. They're easy to assemble but do require a fair amount of patience because of cleaning up flash on all the castings. When I don't feel like hauling out the airbrush, I use Tamiya's spray lacquers. I start with their gray primer, followed up with a coat of wood, and finally with their red brown. (BTW, this is a great color to use on boxcars.) But those colors are just for the "wood" part of the car. The bunks and underbody components are soaked in Micro Engineering's rail weathering solution till they turn black, then rinsed with water and allowed to dry overnight. Then with an old toothbrush I clean off any powder residue. Once installed and the car is sprayed with a flat finish, the bunks and brake details take on some nice colors. Also, BTW, I pre-assemble the brake system so it can be handled separately. This is easy to do since Kadee pre-drills all holes and the brake piping is pre-bent. In fact, the entire kit is a series of subassemblies--the only way to go, in my opinion.
The logs are the Kadee logs included in the kit, though I have my own technique for aging them. First off, using a razor saw, I cut them to slightly different lengths. Then I glue the bottom cap in place (or you could do the top), then I fill each one with plaster. You can then add the furnished top cap, but I chose to leave those off and shape the plaster before it fully set. Once it's set, I take a round tipped bit in my Dremel, bore through sections of the plastic "bark" exposing the plaster underneath, then I color that with a wood color after scribing some grooves in it. I then sprayed the logs with Dullcote just to take away the sheen. I had a bottle of Polly Scale light gray undercoat, though any light gray will do, and brushed that on the raised bark, trying to keep it out of the grooves. I then gathered up some bark pieces in our yard, put them in a coffee bean grinder, and pulverized them. Then I took some Vallejo matte varnish and applied that over the gray bark I just added, doing a small section at a time. I sprinkled on the bark, tapped it down with a finger, and let it dry. Then I kept doing that until one log was finished. Once it all dried,I removed the excess with a toothbrush, using a light stroke. Some pieces will look oversized, so I removed them with tweezers. Then I added more bark in areas that needed it it. Once that was done, I drybrushed the textured bark with flat gull gray. There are a few other things I did, but if you look at trees in your area, you'll get lots of ideas. Thanks for your interest!
Brian,
Thanks very much for the very detailed way you built and weathered the log cars and logs.
I've printed your information and added it to my "When I have the time" folder.
Again, Brian, thank you very much for the information.
Tom ;D
You bet, Tom, thank you. Maybe more info than you wanted . . . but there's more than one way to do a log, this is just my way. Also, the plaster really adds nice weight to the car.
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Well done on the log cars Brian.....I've got a few to do and I'll be sure to check out your narrative. 8)
Brian,
Wonderful modeling on the car and log load.
I have been looking at a cast resin log load I have and wondering how to make it really "pop". Thanks to you I have some really good tips on how to make that happen.
I asked my friend John Bullard if he would like me to post a few of his freight car models, and he responded with this photo and info:
New York Central Greenville gondola #715232 is a LLP2K kit with Champ decals and a scratch built .005 Evergreen sheet steel floor with correct rivet rows made with a pounce wheel (note the circled S). The utility pole load was made from bamboo barbecue skewers soaked in Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. The black creosote residue was done with random streaks of gloss black paint before building the load. The poles are cemented together with Walthers Goo and the load is removable.
Fantastic gondola and load. Very well done.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 19, 2017, 11:42:24 AM
I asked my friend John Bullard if he would like me to post a few of his freight car models, and he responded with this photo and info:
New York Central Greenville gondola #715232 is a LLP2K kit with Champ decals and a scratch built .005 Evergreen sheet steel floor with correct rivet rows made with a pounce wheel (note the circled S). The utility pole load was made from bamboo barbecue skewers soaked in Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. The black creosote residue was done with random streaks of gloss black paint before building the load. The poles are cemented together with Walthers Goo and the load is removable.
Jerry,
Tell your buddy John Bullard he did an absolutely fantastic job! Very realistic. Never thought to use Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. I was the mayor of simpleton for many years and my pea brain always translated black creosote poles into black paint, which didn't look as realistic as John's. Now I've got it on the list the next trip I take to Home depot or Lowes. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on March 19, 2017, 12:16:21 PM
... I was the mayor of simpleton for many years and my pea brain always translated black creosote poles into black paint, which didn't look as realistic as John's. Now I've got it on the list the next trip I take to Home depot or Lowes. Thanx Thom...
The only thing that should actually be black on a model railroad is a shadow (real, or painted-on). Everything else should be a dark grey. An artist "neutral grey" paint set (and the equivalent markers) are very useful. Here's a set to show the range of colors (available here: https://www.jetpens.com/Copic-Marker-12-Neutral-Gray-Set/pd/3791 (https://www.jetpens.com/Copic-Marker-12-Neutral-Gray-Set/pd/3791)) N7 is about the same shade as German Panzer Grey if you can get military modeler colors (that's my default for 'weathered black.') If you want something to show up as a darker black, use N8.
(https://static2.jetpens.com/images/a/000/068/68563.jpg?mark64=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5qZXRwZW5zLmNvbS9pbWFnZXMvYXNzZXRzL3dhdGVybWFyay5wbmc&markalign64=dG9wLHJpZ2h0&markscale=19&s=925eff6913edc481366b6f4ca1f155cf) (https://static2.jetpens.com/images/a/000/068/68563.jpg?mark64=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5qZXRwZW5zLmNvbS9pbWFnZXMvYXNzZXRzL3dhdGVybWFyay5wbmc&markalign64=dG9wLHJpZ2h0&markscale=19&s=925eff6913edc481366b6f4ca1f155cf)
dave
Dave,
Wow! lot's to know and practice with. I've made my notes in my favorites and watch list for the pens. Thanks for the learning curve, I've got a project coming up later this spring for loads and now I have one that I'll be doing. Thanx Thom...
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Here is another freight car as modeled by my friend, Jack Bullard.
This is a Walthers GSC bulkhead flatcar which I upgraded by replacing all the molded on grabs with .012 plastic rod, wire drop grabs and A-Line stirrups. I also added laser cut wood decking and bulkhead ends. I think the detail upgrades ended up costing more than the car! The wood decking was weathered with several shades of Poly Scale acrylic paints. The car was airbrushed with Floquil UP Armour Yellow and lettered with Micro Scale decals. I model the late 60's early 70's and lumber loads of that era were not wrapped. I buy quarter inch x half inch basswood strips to build my lumber loads. Each block of scale length basswood is embossed with a screw to achieve the individual boards and then foam brushed with Minwax Natural (#209) for a lightly weathered appearance. The small straps are black thread run through bees wax and the larger straps are Chartpak 1/32 black graphic tape. The lumber load is removable using 3M double sided tape, and was constructed to industry standards following an article in the February 1991 Mainline Modeler by Greg Martin and Paul Chandler. The car was built using a Jim Sands photo on Fallen Flags website as a reference.
Jerry & Jack,
Nice nice modeling of the bulkhead flat car. I don't know what it is, but I just love looking at how people model their cars. With and without loads. Great job! Can't wait to see more modeling from Jack & others. ThanxThom...
Quote from: tct855 on March 29, 2017, 08:26:29 AM
Jerry & Jack,
Nice nice modeling of the bulkhead flat car. I don't know what it is, but I just love looking at how people model their cars. With and without loads. Great job! Can't wait to see more modeling from Jack & others. ThanxThom...
I'll second that motion! Outstanding modeling. I'd swear that was the real thing if it was sitting on some track and had some scenery around it.
Jerry and Jack,
Ditto to the other comments.
Tom ;D
Thom, Bob & Tom,
Thank you for your nice comments, much appreciated by both of us.
Lackawanna twin hopper restored by Steamtown NPS, Scranton, PA.
D& H XF box car.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200417075952.jpeg)
Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 29, 2017, 07:44:34 AM
Here is another freight car as modeled by my friend, Jack Bullard.
This is a Walthers GSC bulkhead flatcar which I upgraded by replacing all the molded on grabs with .012 plastic rod, wire drop grabs and A-Line stirrups. I also added laser cut wood decking and bulkhead ends. I think the detail upgrades ended up costing more than the car! The wood decking was weathered with several shades of Poly Scale acrylic paints. The car was airbrushed with Floquil UP Armour Yellow and lettered with Micro Scale decals. I model the late 60's early 70's and lumber loads of that era were not wrapped. I buy quarter inch x half inch basswood strips to build my lumber loads. Each block of scale length basswood is embossed with a screw to achieve the individual boards and then foam brushed with Minwax Natural (#209) for a lightly weathered appearance. The small straps are black thread run through bees wax and the larger straps are Chartpak 1/32 black graphic tape. The lumber load is removable using 3M double sided tape, and was constructed to industry standards following an article in the February 1991 Mainline Modeler by Greg Martin and Paul Chandler. The car was built using a Jim Sands photo on Fallen Flags website as a reference.
Hi all,
Jerry-Jack, here are a couple flat cars I just finished. They're probably not as nice as jack's but we all need to have something to strive too. These are Red Caboose 42' fish belly flat cars. The decks are to reflect individual worn boards. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Awesome modeling! I love the way you chewed up a few boards when weathering the decks. Great colors on the decking, very realistic IMO. Nice weathering of the sides, lots of wonderful details, few modelers add the cut levers.
Thom,
The NYC flats looks fantastic. I never thought of using wheel stops on flats, nice touch.
Tom ;D
T~,
Shhhhhh! Don't tell anyone, next thing is nobody will be coping me. They'll all be putting up proper stops and loads. ha. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 21, 2017, 01:25:58 PM
Thom,
Awesome modeling! I love the way you chewed up a few boards when weathering the decks. Great colors on the decking, very realistic IMO. Nice weathering of the sides, lots of wonderful details, few modelers add the cut levers.
Jerry,
Thank you for the kinds words and more thanks for noticing the hand made cut lever bars with bracket and loop. Jerry if you look closer you might notice I put the air pull release rods complete with loop on one end and L bend on other. These cars belong to bagman. He can tell yah I do those little details on most rollingstock I build. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I see them clearly now, should have looked a little closer, my bad. I kind of got caught up in all the deck and end detail, also love that "positionable" brake wheel that pivots 90 degrees to accommodate over length loads. I hope David sees this and posts a few shots of these flats in service on his layout.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 22, 2017, 09:07:18 AM
Thom,
I see them clearly now, should have looked a little closer, my bad. I kind of got caught up in all the deck and end detail, also love that "positionable" brake wheel that pivots 90 degrees to accommodate over length loads. I hope David sees this and posts a few shots of these flats in service on his layout.
Me too! ha. Thanx Thom...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210417064040.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210417064040.jpeg)
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A cleaner Seaboard whale belly and a CB&Q one.
Quote from: tct855 on April 21, 2017, 06:56:56 PM
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 21, 2017, 01:25:58 PM
Thom,
Awesome modeling! I love the way you chewed up a few boards when weathering the decks. Great colors on the decking, very realistic IMO. Nice weathering of the sides, lots of wonderful details, few modelers add the cut levers.
Jerry,
Thank you for the kinds words and more thanks for noticing the hand made cut lever bars with bracket and loop. Jerry if you look closer you might notice I put the air pull release rods complete with loop on one end and L bend on other. These cars belong to bagman. He can tell yah I do those little details on most rollingstock I build. Thanx Thom...
Thom does a fantastic job when weathering cars. He's done quite a few for me over the years ( along with some loco's) and the additional details that are added really finish the model off.
I built these flat cars from some old Red Caboose kits. Very easy build and the detail is very good in the stock build. Unfortunately when shipping to Thom some broke off and had to be replaced.
This is where Thom excels. Very clever in replacing broken parts and then adding some extra details that you wouldn't think of.
I'll post some photos on my layout when Thom sends them out to me but in the meantime I'm sure he'll post some after they make an appearance this upcoming weekend on the F&SM.
David
David,
Looking forward to the photos of the cars on both layouts.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 22, 2017, 09:07:18 AM
Thom,
I see them clearly now, should have looked a little closer, my bad. I kind of got caught up in all the deck and end detail, also love that "positionable" brake wheel that pivots 90 degrees to accommodate over length loads. I hope David sees this and posts a few shots of these flats in service on his layout.
Bagman,
When you post pics of your flat cars on your beautiful layout. Will see shots like these? T...
Quote from: tct855 on April 26, 2017, 12:03:04 AM
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 22, 2017, 09:07:18 AM
Thom,
I see them clearly now, should have looked a little closer, my bad. I kind of got caught up in all the deck and end detail, also love that "positionable" brake wheel that pivots 90 degrees to accommodate over length loads. I hope David sees this and posts a few shots of these flats in service on his layout.
Bagman,
When you post pics of your flat cars on your beautiful layout. Will see shots like these? T...
Sure, along with the odd dinosaur as John Allen did.
This is assuming that they make it back from George' open house !
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Hi Tom:
Thanks for the great pics. enjoyed them very much.
Karl
Karl,
You are welcome. I only have a few hundred more, I'm guessing.
Tom ;D
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Tom,
Damn son!, did you camp out overnight at the car factory to capture this 5 minute old boxcar? ha. Thanx Thom... P.S. you keep showing all these shiny clean cars and George & I are going to rethink your next visit to the dirty F&SM rr.... just sayin' 8)
Thom,
I was visiting my cousin Geary in Thomasville, GA. It was the Christmas Vacation of 1965. This boxcar was set out at the thread factory. The factory made the wooden spools with thread. I can't remember the name, but it was on the ends of the spools.
Not to worry, I have weathered boxcar photos as well. Remember, not every thing is weathered A-la George Sellios.
Just saying.
Tom ;D
I remembered, it was Coats & Clark Spools in Thomasville, Georgia. ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
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Model and photo by my friend John Bullard. And, a brief description in John's own words.
"This is a Robbins Rails/E&B Valley 70 ton PS-1 covered hopper which I had upgraded with plastic rod grab irons, A-Line stirrups, Evergreen end channels, Details Associates hatches and a Plano running board. The car was airbrushed and decaled with a Champ set using a prototype photo from the Erie Morning Sun Freight Car book. The real subject of this photo is the shot gun rust streaks. These are done by splattering Poly Scale acrylic rust using my thumb on a toothbrush (no kidding)! A damp paint brush is then used to gently streak the rust splotches before they completely dry. I practice this technique on a 3x5 card before I feel comfortable applying it to a model just as one first adjusts the spray pattern on an airbrush. Sparingly! I keep a wet wash cloth ready to wipe it down if I put too much on. This technique looks best if one uses a rail brown and a lesser amount of brighter rust to show some contrast. This car still needs cement streaks and a modest weathering but I wanted to share my technique on creating shot gun rust before covering all those lovely streaks. Now I have to paint over all those little splotches on my garage wall!"
The rust pockmarks came out nicely, Jerry. Tom, looks like FEC 3715 is before the rebuild that removed 3717's ventilator. 3715's reweigh date is 1957, 3717's looks like 1986. Any idea when the rebuilds took place? Or should I ask who has the kit (Sunshine? Westerfield?) and if they'll check the instructions?
Jerry,
John B. did an awesome job at making the car look old. Now I know why my teeth look all weathered. It's because I use my teethbrush to weather my cars also. ha. Nice job! Let's see more! Maybe I should weather something white, so my teeth will be white again. :-\ Thanx Thom...
James,
Thanks for the nice comment.
Thom,
I'm pretty sure that John uses his wife's toothbrush. Please don't tell her....
I built this Wheeling & Lake Erie gondola from a photo in a magazine. The basis is an old Mantua gondola that had the correct number of ribs. I sanded off the end details and rebuilt them from some styrene to match the prototype. I also modeled the geared handbrake to match the prototype. It has sheet lead hidden inside the car to add some weight. I added a board floor to hide the lead, proto photo did not show the interior so I don't know if this car had a wood or a steel floor. The actual color is darker than in the photo, the flash washed it out.
Jerry,
Nice build. My 2 ¢ is since it's all steel then the floor most likely is steel too. That being said, I know wood floors were also used (in rebuild programs for example and special order cars also). If you bottom is always covered, then problem solved. ha. Thanx Thom...
Jerry,
Well done, I love it. Great job sir.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 09, 2017, 10:23:30 AM
Jerry,
Well done, I love it. Great job sir.
Tom ;D
Thank you for your kind words.
Quote from: tct855 on May 09, 2017, 09:20:11 AM
Jerry,
Nice build. My 2 ¢ is since it's all steel then the floor most likely is steel too. That being said, I know wood floors were also used (in rebuild programs for example and special order cars also). If you bottom is always covered, then problem solved. ha. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Your comment led me to go back to my small research library and see if I could find a definitive answer. I found the prototype photo of this class of W&LE cars in the Train Shed Cyc #62 reprint by Gregg. Photo only, no plan drawing, but no wood floor is called out in the caption, so I would think that you are correct and I should have modeled a steel floor. I started this car several years ago from an article in an old issue of MR, dug it out and finished it up about a month ago. The article covered 5 gondolas modeled using the Mantua/Tyco shell and no reference was made to the floors of any of the cars in the article.
The Steam Era Freight Car group on Yahoo had a lengthy series of emails earlier this year covering the size of the boards used as flooring for steel gondolas. IIRC the board widths were shown as 5 1/4" on a plan drawing cited by one of the members. Inspired by that chain of emails, I added some sheet lead weight and used that 5" +/-width of stripwood for the floor boards.
In my research, I did find a series of C&O gons that retained their original wood floors through their rebuilding in 1936, and a series of ACL low side steel gons built "for the mill trade" with wood floors.
I have a partially finished Southern gon based on the same Mantua/Tyco shell. I have not found any definitive information on the floor of this car, so when I do get to it, I'll be finishing it with a steel floor.
Thanks for your input, I really appreciate your thoughts and comments.
Jerry,
I've got to be honest here! If it weren't for disclexya no dislexya no dyslexia, I'd never be right about anywho! ha. Glad I could be right no inspire no guide no help! Thanx Thom...
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Tom, do you know if Georgia 19862 (the outside braced, steel sheathed car from June 4) is a USRA rebuild like Tichy's kit? I have one I'll eventually need to build, but no prototype photos. Can you read the reweigh date in the original?
Quote from: jbvb on June 06, 2017, 10:14:43 PM
Tom, do you know if Georgia 19862 (the outside braced, steel sheathed car from June 4) is a USRA rebuild like Tichy's kit? I have one I'll eventually need to build, but no prototype photos. Can you read the reweigh date in the original?
James,
I don't know if the boxcar is a USRA rebuild or not. The photo was taken, if I remember, in 1966 in Thomasville, GA.
The rebuild date is 3-54. The GA. RR had a repair shop in Savannah, GA so I'm not sure what the Hville on the rebuild date means. Possibly Hendersonville, NC? GA RR had no shops in NC.
If the Hville is Mville, it would be Milledgeville, GA. I have no info that a repair shop was there either.
Tom ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070617062011.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070617062011.jpeg)
I dug into Tichy's site and find their steel/outside braced kit shown as Georgia 19580, but painted with light (gray? white?) sides and a dark roof. Can't read the reweigh date in their photo, though. But this photo will be useful when I get around to building it; thanks.
James,
The cars were light gray. This one has a build date of 1-19 and rebuild of 1-65. Hope this helps.
Tom ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080617061828.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080617061828.jpeg)
Hi Everyone,
Wanted to share a couple pics of two sets of 4 rare Atlas 11,000 gallon tank cars. These cars have replaced brass grab irons, air pull release rods & un-coupler lift bars with brackets. All base weathering is dry brush paint and pigment rust with just a light dusting with airbrush. 8) Was curious, Has anyone here detailed or weathered tank cars? Thanx Thom...
Thom, I've built the P2K, Red Caboose etc. kits, which have almost all the parts visible on the prototype, and I've done simple airbrush weathering on them. But none of them are anything I'd present as an example. There's a guy on RR-Line who goes by 'tankcarsrule' - he only posts a few times a year, when he finishes scratchbuilding or kitbashing a unique prototype he found somewhere. Everything I've seen him do has been post-1970 prototypes.
[edit] Web search shows that 'tankcarsrule' posts on quite a few forums and he has a Photobucket account.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 21, 2017, 07:34:42 AM
Okay, Okay, I'll open!
Morning all,
Not much from me today. The Judge and Curt are coming by for some train fun.
Have a great day ya'll.
Tom ;D
D&H boxcar from Steam Town.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210617073205.jpeg)
Here's my take on a couple D&H box cars. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: jbvb on June 19, 2017, 04:24:09 PM
Thom, I've built the P2K, Red Caboose etc. kits, which have almost all the parts visible on the prototype, and I've done simple airbrush weathering on them. But none of them are anything I'd present as an example. There's a guy on RR-Line who goes by 'tankcarsrule' - he only posts a few times a year, when he finishes scratchbuilding or kitbashing a unique prototype he found somewhere. Everything I've seen him do has been post-1970 prototypes.
[edit] Web search shows that 'tankcarsrule' posts on quite a few forums and he has a Photobucket account.
James,
Thanks for the heads up! I looked him up and he is really a master tank car builder. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Your tank cars look absolutely wonderful. It appears you took the real thing and made them HO scale. Very well done my friend.
Tom ;D
PS: The two D&H boxcars look great as well.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 21, 2017, 04:46:05 PM
Thom,
Your tank cars look absolutely wonderful. It appears you took the real thing and made them HO scale. Very well done my friend.
Tom ;D
PS: The two D&H boxcars look great as well.
ACL 1504,
Thank you for your kind thoughts oh great and powerful oz! Thanx Thom...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617062238.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617062238.jpeg)
I went through a period of time where I weathered many of my boxcars. I did this after visiting Howard Zane. I liked how he weathered his but felt as though he over weathered them.
I think a mix of light, medium and heavy weathering is correct depending on the age of the car. His all seemed to be heavily weathered regardless of age. Certainly not being critical, but only giving my opinion.
I used an air brush to weather my boxcars.
The four main Floquil colors I used were Weathered Black, Grime, Earth and Mud.
If the boxcar was Boxcar Red, I used Floquil Boxcar Red. If Freight Car Brown, I used that. If tuscan, then Tuscan and so on.
The SAL below is a combination of Weathered Black, Boxcar Red and Grime.
I started by spraying a light coat of Floquil Boxcar Red on the sides, top and ends. I then used the Weathered Black on the trucks, wheels, lower sides and roof. A very light coat of Grime was used on the trucks, wheels and the lower sides and ends.
It is a Kadee PS1 boxcar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617063524.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617063524.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617063537.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617063550.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280617063550.jpeg)
HI Tom:
Nice. perfect light weathering.
Karl
ACL 1504,
I agree with my big brother from another mother Karl! Very realistic work. Did you ever do professional weathering on rollingstock for customers? I can't wait to see your layout loaded with all weathered freight cars once complete. Good luck with the upcoming open house T. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: postalkarl on June 28, 2017, 07:34:18 AM
HI Tom:
Nice. perfect light weathering.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you, as always much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on June 28, 2017, 08:01:52 AM
ACL 1504,
I agree with my big brother from another mother Karl! Very realistic work. Did you ever do professional weathering on rollingstock for customers? I can't wait to see your layout loaded with all weathered freight cars once complete. Good luck with the upcoming open house T. Thanx Thom...
tct855,
Thank you, very much appreciate the compliment. No, I only painted brass locos and maybe 10 diesels for customers. I've only weathered a little over 20 cars at this point. Only 300 more to go.
Tom ;D
Hi all,
Haven't seen a post here in awhile so I thought I post a set of plastic Red Caboose flat cars I did 6 months ago for a customer.
I started with rebuilding and modifying the frame and trucks to allow for proper weight at empty and better tracking. Followed up with scribing & lifting individual boards for a board by board wear n tear decking. Melted in place Cerabin for distributed weight and then painted to match underframe weathering.
Heavy weathering with some extra odd detail parts hanging around for a hopefully interesting-wonder what the last load was- viewing. Air release & coupler lift bars with brackets finishes off the simple detailing. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on August 17, 2017, 05:00:47 PM
Hi all,
Haven't seen a post here in awhile so I thought I post a set of plastic Red Caboose flat cars I did 6 months ago for a customer.
I started with rebuilding and modifying the frame and trucks to allow for proper weight at empty and better tracking. Followed up with scribing & lifting individual boards for a board by board wear n tear decking. Melted in place Cerabin for distributed weight and then painted to match underframe weathering.
Heavy weathering with some extra odd detail parts hanging around for a hopefully interesting-wonder what the last load was- viewing. Air release & coupler lift bars with brackets finishes off the simple detailing. Thanx Thom...
Love your work Mr T !!
After I tore the layout down earlier this summer I haven't done much model railroading - been way too focused on the new house (and getting the old one ready to sell).
I did manage to locate the decals for this Westerfield I-GN (International Great Northern) ca. 1926 "Murphy" single sheathed boxcar. I'd assembled the car as part of a "live demo" at the MARPM meet last fall, but had never painted and lettered it.
So I took the time to paint it - the photo shows it in the initial decal phase - at this point there's still some decal film visible since I hadn't "snuggled" the decals down completely.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-280817142940.jpeg)
Marty
Marty,
Glad to hear you are dabbling in modeling again! Wow, a very nice & handsome expertly assembled model. This is going to be a fine right model on any layout once completed. Thanks for posting M&M. Thanx Thom...
So Below is a Carter Bros. car that I built in HOn3 about 6 years ago. It was the last car I built for my AP certificate and this one was the last toward my MMR.
I had built enough cars to know what would judge out and this one had enough.
I built it from a crude plan in a Narrow Gauge Gazette.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-280817171557-244181605.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-280817171557-244181605.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-280817171557-244191804.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-280817171557-244191804.jpeg)
Bob,
Where do I begin? The truck chains, the truss rod work, the brake rigging. Yup, I've decided... all excellent job! Question BP, did I notice the trucks were screwed on from the top? or did you cut off the screw head on bottom? Hummm.
Since I'm here in an askin mood, will did this car receieve couplers and lift bars on this highly detailed car. Thanx Thom...
Thom...
These photos were taken before couplers and before the final dress up for judging. There are a lot of paint chips and the like that were not shown to the judges. Good eye...
The bolsters were really fun to make up. The trucks are from Rio Grand Models in Santa Clara California. He cast the truck bolsters with a lot of space to get a nut in there. That was the last thing I wanted in there for judging.
There is a little piece of me that loves to confound judges. Make them ask< "What is that?!" or, "How did he do that?"
So........... When I made up the bolster beams for the car frame I super glued a half inch long, hex head, 0-80 screw in there with the head trapped between the beams. I would cut the length later. I then took two of the ascetal plastic (engineering plastic / aka Delrin I think) that comes with the kit to build Kadee HOn3 trucks. It is the bolster piece that presses onto their king pin. I hung threads in the hole and then wound the piece onto the 0-80 screw. There is no slot or flatted sides on it so it is really hard to figure out what it is. I then cut the screw to just enough length that the paint that went on after this photo held the plastic slug on there.
Thanx for looking in.
See ya
Bob
This car has a lot of miles on it since then.
Here are two photos that I just took of the car. Closer to "as judged" but still with a lot of miles since.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-280817182408-24420584.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-280817182408-24421296.jpeg)
Thanx again
see ya
Bob
Bob, Are you sure there is just a little bit?
ed
Decals finished - means I added an overcoat of Future floor polish and coat of Vallejo flat.
I might hold off weathering this one until I complete a couple of other "half finished" (started?) cars ...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-030917080516.jpeg)
Excellent job Marty! Unfinished projects .... Who has them?
Marty,
Excellent job! I haven't tried the Vallejo flat yet. Seems I got some more modeling skills to develop. Question are you at the weathering stage now? Can't wait to see the car once weathered. Thanx Thom...
Marty,
Looks really good. Very well done sir.
Tom ;D
Hi all,
I was looking through some of the great prototype pics here and remembered I did a boxcar similar to some listed earlier. Here's a few pics on a thrall door I did a while back. If memory serves I ended up removing all grab, ladder brake wheel setup, roof and floor.
Weathered all separately and reassembled and added custom hand made stirrups, coupler lift bars w/brackets, air release pull rod and added back the brake wheel setup and new air hoses with pipe. Enjoy! Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on September 03, 2017, 10:36:02 AM
Marty,
Excellent job! I haven't tried the Vallejo flat yet. Seems I got some more modeling skills to develop. Question are you at the weathering stage now? Can't wait to see the car once weathered. Thanx Thom...
thanks Thom,
I've been a big fan of Vallejo paints and finishes for years - sometimes you can get a build up with Dullcote or (especially) other acrylic clear finishes - but the Vallejo stuff works great.
I'm not planning on weathering this car quite yet - I want to finish up a couple of other half built resin cars before we list the house at the end of the month (which means I'll have to clean off my modeling desk before then!)
Marty
Excellent builds!!
Here's one for weathering aficionados: Copper Hill, TN in January 1982. At that time, Cities Services was running the copper smelter, and still shipping quite a bit of Sulfuric Acid by rail.
I had recently dug out some hoppers for a quick project. An Athearn and two Accurail. These are not "museum quality", but I've not weathered many cars before. Unless you remember the Floquil Spray can of "Instant Weathering". :D I used an airbrush with rust/dust/black at first and then some Pan Pastels.
Jeff
Dr. J~,
Nice job, I like the overall realism you created here! Very cool. Thanx Thom..
A couple more from the CB&Q. First is a GS Gondola. The Burlington used these more than hoppers for coal hauling. This was a Sunshine kit, which I had built by TMB Custom models. These are available again, from a different source, so I can now try building one myself.
Jeff
Finally, this is an unusual car. It's a "bomber box". These cars were built during WW2 to transport B-26 wings from Baltimore to Omaha for assembly. 50 foot end door autoloader boxcars had their roofs raised by 26" to accommodate the wings. This is also a Sunshine Models kit, long out of production, so again I had TMB custom models build and finish it, as I didn't want to screw it up. :o Needs some weathering, but a cool looking addition to the fleet.
Jeff
Doc Jeff,
Wow! Nice work my friend. Boy I forgotten about this thread. You've just inspired me to go into the waiting cars box and try and do something again with one or two. I'll see what I can do, till then nice work again Mandinga! Thanx Thom...
Jeff,
Very nice modeling. I really enjoy cars that are modeled after a specific prototype. Thanks for the pics.
Interior view of PRR H-31 2-bay hopper #222529, which has been in ballast service at Seashore Trolley Museum for more than 20 years.
Here's a Tichy kit of a USRA 40' boxcar the NYC rebuilt with steel sides. I was experimenting with chalk powder weathering instead of my usual airbrush washes. I like it, though looking closely at the pictures reveal a few grabs I should straighten before I show it to an NMRA evaluator.
IMGP4438v1.jpg
The car looks great James. The weathering fits the era. I don't see any grabs you'd have to straightened
Thanks for bringing this thread back to life
TomO