Hello Everyone.
I just started working on Bar Mills Mooney's Plumbing. I have a few Bar Mills kits on the shelf but this is the first one I've assembled.
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First step of course I laid out all the pieces. I bought the kit secondhand and the box was full of woodland scenic fine turf so I had to clean all the pieces off.
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I washed over all the laser cut window and door sheets with A&I. This probably effects the reliability of the self-adhesive backing but I plan on gluing everything anyway.
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A&I wash over all the siding.
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Before I painted the siding I coated it in mineral spirits so the paint won't adhere well. This color is Apple Barrel 21887E Tuscan Teal.
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After the walls mostly dried I used a wire brush and some tape to pull up some of the color. I coated the walls in A&I after I was done.
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I added the sign to the wall.
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I thought I had taken a few pictures of the window assembly process but I didn't. The coloring was really simple. I used a flat stiff brush to blot white on all the pieces I previously coloring with A&I. I try to leave the paint out of the grain and out of a few areas. Before I installed the acetate I sprayed it with Dullcoat. The glass got a dusting of Rembrandt 408.3 chalk to dirty it up.
Thanks for checking in.
Hopefully more to come tomorrow.
-Steve
Steve,
Really nice start on the kit. I like the wall color and that sign looks top notch installed. Your window painting treatment is very realistic. I am going to try that on my next structure,
--George
I agree with everything George said! That sign looks terrific on the wall and the window treatment is perfect. I may need to give that one a try myself. ;)
Hi Steve:
lad to see you building this one. Jim Mooney is a good friend of mine. I shall be watching.
Karl
Yeah, Jim's a good guy. Glad to see such a great start on 'his' kit.
dave
Steve,
I agree, great start on the build. Love the Mooney sign.
Tom ;D
Is the sign on the roof going to be a big toilet?.....I'll be looking in. :)
Really nice Steve. I'll be following.
Great start Steve, I will be following also.
Jim
Looking great, I have a few Bar Mills sitting on the shelf and look forward to following along. In your first step of the walls you applied a/I , you didn't make mention if you braced the back of the walls first, did you brace?
Inspiring work so far. Thanks for explaining your painting techniques.
I don't know Jim Mooney, but we did go to separate high schools together at different times.
Off to a great start Steve, I built this in H0 and N-scale simultaneously, had a great time building them.
http://janbouli.com/?p=mooney.html (http://janbouli.com/?p=mooney.html)
Ooooops , I never finished the build thread, although I did finish the structures.
Thanks everyone.
I don't really know Jim Mooney personally but he really helped me out when I was building Master Creations Minerva Casket. I don't know if I would've got that kit finished if he didn't help me identify where everything goes. Super nice guy.
Lynn, I did brace the walls heavily. I used way more wood than was supplied in the kit for bracing. The A&I warps the wood but the Mineral Spirits warps it worse I think. I braced before I did any coloring also. The A&I isnt a big deal but if I applied the thinner/ top paint coat the paint comes off so easily it would have bare spots where the closepins are. I'll upload a photo of the bracing with the next batch of pictures.
I added the corner trim and the windows this afternoon. I also drybrushed the clapboard walls with off-white craft paint.
I painted the corner trim using a "wet-brushing" technique I learned from Brett Gallant. It's something I picked up while building SierraWest O'Neills Fabrication and I've been using it ever since. I pre-stained the wood with A&I as a base then I painted the wood white but I tried to do a bad job covering everything. The little missed areas give a decent peeling/chipping appearance. Brett has a video on his website if you want to check it out.
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This little window was a little tough to get in without damaging. The rest of the windows and doors went in no problem.
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I need to weather up this door a little more. Probably add some grime/dirt around the bottom. It feels too white to me right now.
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Looks like a mistake was made when manufacturing this wall. The clapboard is going up instead of down. Its the rear of the structure and it won't be seen so I'll leave it be. I also cut a chunk out of the upper right corner when I was cutting the bracing.
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I like the detail on this wall. The laser cut windows are nice because you can customize how open or closed you want them. I need to work the sign a little bit. I want it to look as weathered as the windows.
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Thanks for checking in.
Once all these pieces dry I'll add some window dressing and glue the walls together.
-Steve
I kinda figured you prebraced the walls, never too much bracing. Walls look great.
Looking real good! I built this thing many years ago but wasn't happy with how I painted it. I was thinking of getting another one to try again!
I really like the color and effect of the walls. Reminds me of the FSM Tannery finish using Floquil. I would never have guessed you could do that with water-based paints. Excellent, excellent, excellent.
Quote from: SteveCuster on November 28, 2018, 03:29:13 PM(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-281118150447-357461832.jpeg&hash=e86cc3cc4b4f252dd4b76982bac6d1a38d979244)
Looks like a mistake was made when manufacturing this wall. The clapboard is going up instead of down. Its the rear of the structure and it won't be seen so I'll leave it be. I also cut a chunk out of the upper right corner when I was cutting the bracing.
Ah...that brings back memories. When I was building Sokol's I ran into a wall that was cut with the clapboard going up instead of down. I didn't realize it until I was ready to add it to the structure. It was underneath an overhang so it wouldn't have been noticeable. My first thought was to just leave it as it. But I knew and eventually gave in and replaced it. :D
Your build looks terrific so far. Thanks for sharing. I'm enjoying the journey and picking up some new tricks. ;D
Thanks everyone.
Vince, I've always liked the color scheme of Barongoulds. Blue can be a little bit scary for me. I think a blue structure can really stand out in a bad way if the wrong shade is used. I bought every Apple Barrel blue from Wal-Mart and experimented till I found a shade I was comfortable with. The nice thing is they are $.50 a piece so you can buy the whole rack for about $20.00.
I made a little more progress today.
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I glued the walls together and weathered the sign a little more using chalks.
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This is the bracing I added.
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I prefer to add the roofing with the roof glued down. I glued the dormers on the roof card at this point. I was not real happy with the gap between the dormer and the roof.
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In the past I'd use some white glue darkened with black paint to make tar and fill this area but it always comes out sloppy especially if I'm filling in a large gap. Lately I've been using construction paper to make flashing. In reality the flashing is bent at a 90 degree angle with half under the roofing and half over the siding. I only model the part that comes up on the siding.
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I trim it in place once it dries with a sharp razor.
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The rear dormer had a really nasty gap due to an error I made cutting the corner trim.
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I used the same technique to cover up the gap. I also weathered the flashing with some brown chalks. The flashing is a little bigger here to cover it but once the roofing material is on it should blend in nicely.
Thanks for checking in. Hopefully I'll get a chance to tackle the roofing tonight.
I just went through this working on the Baileys kit and decided to follow the instructions with the paint and glue mix, it will be interesting to see how you complete the flashing.
Really nice modeling Steve. I'm leery of using the really bright colors also. What a great idea about the flashing, I'll be giving this a try on my next build.
Steve,
This is really nice modeling. I am close to terrified of using blue on a structure. Yours looks great! I sometimes use paper flashing, too. I paint mine with a dark gray or dark silver to represent galvanized flashing. Once it is installed it is easy to add some rust in varying degrees. I really enjoy following your threads, I always learn things I can use to become a better modeler.
Thanks everyone. for following along.
Lynn, Some of the FSM kits George has you mix grimy black with epoxy. It fills gaps better but for me it ends up with chunky looking tar that's also very shiny and sometimes difficult to dull down. I prefer Gallery Glass Liquid Leading Black to simulate tar. Its thick and flat and comes out of the tube the right color. I built Bailey's a long time ago but I believe in that kit George is using Elmers glue mixed with Polly-S Grimy Black? Muxh easier to dull down than Epoxy.
Thanks Curt, I took the flashing idea from Brett Gallant. It's one of the techniques used in O'Neills Fabrication. I've been using it ever since.
Thanks Jerry, I'm glad you're following along. I think I spend more time experimenting with colors than I actually do building kits. I try a few colors out on a piece of scrap clapboard and fully weather them to see which one will work for me. I usually come back the next day and choose one. Gray, dark silver, dark green all work out well for the flashing. Its a super easy technique and it works pretty well.
I made a little progress today on the roof. The roof consists of peel and stick paper strips similar to a stick on label from Staples.
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The peel and stick is very fast to apply. Even with the cuts around the dormers it only took me a few minutes to do the whole roof.
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I colored the roofing with Apple Barrel 21490E Pavement. It's very similar to Grimy Black or Weathered Black Floquil.
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Before I installed the roofing I needed to bevel the edges of the front and rear walls to match the peaked profile. Everyone has a technique for doing this and it's pretty standard on craftsman kits but I figured I'd show how I do it.
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I've used a sanding block in the past but I prefer a piece of 120 grit laid flat on my glass workbench.
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Pretty basic stuff but if the roof doesn't sit flat it will ruin any model. This and tight corner joints make or break a model in my opinion.
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I had to sand it a little bit more but it looks good to me here
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I added this little clapboard triangle section to the end of the front dormer. The peaked dormer roof actually comes over the top of the main roof.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
looking great Steve! Yes, I agree that the liquid leading product from Gallery Glass makes nice "tar". Its all I use nowadays
Looking great! Ditto on the Liquid Leading...my go-to for severa years, now. That shade of blue was familiar to my eye, and realized it's what I used on my first-ever build...Revelia Srorage from Bar Mills. Wow...about 15 years ago or so? I know I have it somewhere...I need to go find it. Great thread!
Looks great , i can't believe the signage , really looks painted on.
Thanks guys.
Lynn, I sanded the back of the sign to make it a little thinner, cut along along with the clapboard once it was in place then I used my fingernail in press it into the clapboards.
I made a little more progress over the weekend. Lots of Christmas stuff coming up with the kids so I didn't have a ton of time.
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I wanted to do something different with the roof. I used some scale 2x2s to cover up the seams. I wasn't really happy with the unfinished wood look.
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I decided to paint all the wood on the roof to match. I think the unfinished wood looks good on a shed or some type of barn structure but it looks unfinished with all the blue and white coloring.
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I painted and added on all the rafter tails. These are laser cut and I colored them the same as the windows. 1 coat of A&I, white paint dabbed on with a stiff straight brush followed by another A&I wash. All of the coloring was done prior to removing them from the laser cut sheet.
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I dusted the roof with some dark brown chalk. I'll add some more weathering later once I add the chimneys and the water tank.
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Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Very nice work, Steve. The roof in particular looks authentic and to scale.
--George
Yes, looks very good. I also like the colored battens. Will have to remember that when I build FSM Avram
Very nice roofing.
Now, that's a cool looking roof.
Jim
Steve,
The ridge cap really ties that roof together in a way I'll have to borrow.
Steve,
I agree with the painted roof and the overall appearance. The unfinished battens and ridge cap didn't look right.
Tom ;D
Thanks everyone.
I made a little more progress today. I got the roof on the smaller building and I started the loading dock and the water tank.
I didn't take enough pictures of the assembly of the decking and the water tank base. I thought I was stopping to take pictures but apparently I did not. I have a tendency to get wrapped up in the project and I forget to take photos.
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I added the rafter tails and end rafters. Same as the other building.
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The wooden dowel for the water tank core was missing from the kit. I have a few dowels sitting around. I found one that looked about right and cut it to fit.
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The tank is made from one sheet with laser cut planks wrapped around the dowel.
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It looks like the instructions have you using paper to simulate bands. I decided to use thin thread instead.
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Here is everything mocked up in place. The tank isn't glued down. The weathering of the decking and the water tank assembly is not finished. I need to let the glue dry before I can start to weather it more.
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I liked how the thread bands came out when I built this FSM Water Tank that's why I decided to go with thread on this one. I used the same thread also. It's a dark brown with very little fuzzies.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Steve, looks great. I prefer thread for water tanks, too, but I struggle with getting it applied straight . Do you have any special techniques for that? Your bands on both tanks look straight as an arrow.
--George
Thanks George. For the FSM kit I scribed horizontal lines in the siding before I applied it to the core. This kit already had horizontal lines so I followed those. If the lines are deep enough the thread locks right in to the groove. I super glue one end of the thread on first then make sure i pull it tight while gluing the rest of the way around.
-Steve
Very nice looking building and details.
Very nice model. I really like the paint scheme you chose for the building.
This morning I went down and hit the dock, water tank and base with A&I to darken it a bit.
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I came down this afternoon to this. I'm not big a fan of self adhesive parts for this reason. I used carpenters glue with the self adhesive material and it still came apart from the alcohol.
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I cut a piece of scribed siding the same size as the laser cut piece. It's 1/64 thick.
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George, this is how I make my lines straight. Since I was re-doing the water tank I decided to space the lines a little differently. I made them closer at the bottom.
I scribed the lines with a dull x-acto.
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2 coats of A&I to get the color I wanted.
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I glue the one side down with superglue and blow on it till it dries then I slowly work my way around gluing every 1/4 inch or so.
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I added a little bit of moisture seepage on the bottom of the tank by holding it upside down and putting some thinned out green/gray paint along the bottom. I just let it flow up a bit trying to keep it very subtle.
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Here it is completed. I still need to add some NBW castings to the base. The kit didn't include any so I had to find some. The only ones I had small enough are from an old FSM Pile Driver and they are lead so they need coloring.
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While the tank pieces were drying I starting working on the castings. Here they are with the flash removed and cleaned up a bit.
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After I clean up the castings I throw them all in a tupperware full of straight alcohol. This really helps keep the bubbles off when you blacken them. I learned this from Bill Obenauf.
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I take everything right out of the alcohol and drop it in Jax Pewter Black then I dunk them in water and let dry on a paper towel.
Next step will be painting all the castings.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Nice job on the tank.
Steve, thanks much for the mini-lesson on the water tank bands. I never would have thought to scribe in a guide for the thread, but it makes sense, and your results are fantastic. The re-worked tank looks even better than the original, by the way.
--George
Great recovery on the tank! I'm with you. I'm not a fan of peel and stick stuff either.
Really great work on the build Steve. I appreciate all of the photos and detailed how-to's you've been including in your build.
Steve,
Looks great! I, too, appreciate all the explanations of how you achieved the outstanding results.
Thanks everyone. I appreciate the positive feedback and I'm glad I can share some of the techniques I use.
Worked for about an hour or so today. A couple more hours and I'll be done I think.
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I decided to make my own roof sign for the smaller building. I use Serif Drawplus to make my signs. No big tricks here. I sanded the sign till it was thin then I glued it to 3 scale 2x8s. I used a razor to cut the sign at the ends of the boards. Weathered it up with some A&I and a little dark brown chalk. Even if I use the same name as the kit I usually like to make some of my own signs. I think it adds a little personal touch to the model.
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Here it is glued to the building. I added some scale 4x4s as vertical supports.
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Before I added the water tank I needed to add the pipe that goes out of the bottom of it. I had a piece of blackened brass tubing I used for this.
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I added the water tank to the roof. I also added the small decking piece over the front. The decking needs a little more weathering.
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Everything is starting to come together now. Just need to add a few more things, a little weathering and some details.
-Steve
Very nicely done Steve.
Great build thread, and I appreciate some of the detail provided, in particular the addition of the banding on the water tank!
I have one comment though - while that water tank on the roof certainly makes for a more interesting roof line, I am just not sure if a shed type building like this one could possibly support a roof tank like this (without an inside support structure, that would be disproportional to the building size and impact usability of the interior of the building itself). Assuming the water tank is 8 feet wide and 10 feet tall, the water inside the tank when close to full would weigh over 30,000lb. With that said, admittedly, it's hard to resist the charm of those rooftop tanks.
Are there some good prototype examples of roof tanks like this?
I don't want to take away from the great craftsmanship in any way, but am curious.
Thanks Curt.
Thanks swisstrain, I couldn't answer your question as far as the tank goes. I'm not a structural engineer nor did I design this kit. I like the way it looks but I'm not really sure how prototypical it is.
-Steve
Hey Steve:
Looks just beautiful. Keep the pics coming.
Karl
Looking good! That kit is coming together nicely.
Quote from: swisstrain on December 06, 2018, 03:57:50 PM
Great build thread, and I appreciate some of the detail provided, in particular the addition of the banding on the water tank!
I have one comment though - while that water tank on the roof certainly makes for a more interesting roof line, I am just not sure if a shed type building like this one could possibly support a roof tank like this (without an inside support structure, that would be disproportional to the building size and impact usability of the interior of the building itself). Assuming the water tank is 8 feet wide and 10 feet tall, the water inside the tank when close to full would weigh over 30,000lb. With that said, admittedly, it's hard to resist the charm of those rooftop tanks.
Are there some good prototype examples of roof tanks like this?
I don't want to take away from the great craftsmanship in any way, but am curious.
I have attached an article specifically about roof top water tanks in New York City. Certainly the same principles apply to tanks in other locations. Obviously, any tank has to have some type of load bearing structure inside the building that is capable of supporting the tank. HTH.
https://cooperator.com/article/up-on-the-roof/full
A lot of buildings have a strong central core, where the elevators (and usually rest rooms) are located. I wonder if it's fair to say that water tanks were located over top of that central core.
dave
Y'all are correct.....the large load from the water tank would require much more robust structural support from the columns, beams and roof structure underneath.
You're right Swiss, the tank described would hold 15.7 tns. of water, plus the weight of the tank and it's support structure. That amount of weight is much greater than the normal live and dead loads that the roof would have under normal circumstances.
And welcome to the forum. :)
Seems this discussion comes up every time someone builds this kit ....
So ...a tank this size is 0.56cu inches, which would only be a weight of 0.02lbs I think even though the tank doesn't really have any water in , the supporting structure could in fact probably hold the weight if it was topped off...
I have not heard from any of the modelers who have built this kit, that they have ever had any collapse or even heard any creaking of the structure.
But what if we are talking real world? (nobody said this that I could find ) ..well.... in fact the supporting posts of the tank are made of Tritanium (same stuff USS Enterprise is made of) but to keep it's identity secret , it is in fact painted as weathered wood. This goes through the building (unseen in these photos) to reinforced concrete footers ,10 actual feet into the ground. So have no fear, the tower is over engineered to handle the load.
8)
Hi All:
Jim is correct the legs went through the roof and into footings in the ground. Sometimes the water tank was over further and two of the legs were on the outside of the building and into footings on the ground.
Karl
Quote from: JimMooney on December 08, 2018, 01:48:36 PM
Seems this discussion comes up every time someone builds this kit ....
So ...a tank this size is 0.56cu inches, which would only be a weight of 0.02lbs I think even though the tank doesn't really have any water in , the supporting structure could in fact probably hold the weight if it was topped off...
I have not heard from any of the modelers who have built this kit, that they have ever had any collapse or even heard any creaking of the structure.
But what if we are talking real world? (nobody said this that I could find ) ..well.... in fact the supporting posts of the tank are made of Tritanium (same stuff USS Enterprise is made of) but to keep it's identity secret , it is in fact painted as weathered wood. This goes through the building (unseen in these photos) to reinforced concrete footers ,10 actual feet into the ground. So have no fear, the tower is over engineered to handle the load.
8)
Hmmm... Someone's been powering his laser from Dilithium crystals, I think....
dave
Building looks great, nice recovering on the water tank, I'm not a fan of self adhesive either, I've grown acustomed to using 3m tape though.
Thanks for providing all the additional color on rooftop tanks, in particular Jim's, I just had to chuckle. We will see if the roof on Steve's building will start to sag - I will check closely on the next few pictures he is providing us with. ;D.
Looking forward to watching the build progress!
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
I didn't have a ton of time to work this last week but I made some progress.
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I started painting a few of the castings. I use Reaper paints for painting castings. I'm using the set I got from SierraWest. I weathered the casting with some chalks after I was done painting.
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I added the billboard and cut out a base for the diorama. I always paint the foam with some brown paint so I dont have any blue or pink come through.
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I added some basic ground cover to start. I will add more variety and details after it dries. Obviously still wet at this point.
I'm working on some fence material now. I'll update the thread once I add them.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Good looking build Steve
Doug
Thanks Doug and Jim
I decided on where this structure will sit on the layout and it's going to be a few feet from the front and the rear will not be visible. I didn't go crazy will the detailing of the front either just enough to make it look busy but I tried not to use any of my "A" grade castings.
One of the ways I use to give some easy detail and help cover up a flaw in a casting is with tarps or rags. It's a super easy and basically free way to spruce up some old or imperfect castings.
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I started with a painted and weathered pallet. This casting didn't come with the kit and it's a little bit rough. I colored it with tan spray paint and A&I.
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I cut a few pieces of scrap wood to simulate a box or load of some kind.
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I separate a tissue into a single ply. This particular brand has a pattern on the edges so I cut my piece out of the middle. After I cut it out I crumple it into a ball as small as I can get it. Then I unfold it to give some natural creases.
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I laid the tissue over the casting and saturated it with alcohol. One drop is usually enough to get it really wet because it wicks into the tissue. Once it's wet I touched it with a few drops of Reaper Pale Buckskin but any craft paint should work. While its still wet with the painted brush I press it down into the cracks of the casting till it looks natural.
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I dusted the casting with some dark brown chalks and it's done.
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I did the same for this casting only I painted it Reaper Jungle Camo. This type of casting always feels like it needs something else. I usually add a few boards, a chain, a couple rags, a tarp or maybe some hand tools.
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I added a few details around the area and some post and rail fencing. I had originally made a chain link fence but I didn't like the way it felt with the diorama so I switched to this style.
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The dirt is still a little wet in areas.
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I added a few ladders to the side. I believe these are leftovers from an ITLA kit.
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The details back here won't be seen real easily but will give the illusion of activity in the rear of the structure.
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I think I'm mostly done at this point. I might add a few more things but I think it's time to clean of the my workbench and start something new.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Great job, Steve. The tarp is a great idea. I can use my own modeling mishaps to help direct me where to place more detail. Ingenious. Fantastic scene from a relatively modest kit. Thanks for sharing.
Outstanding modeling Steve. Thanks to this thread I will do a lot more detailing on my Mooney's before it goes on a layout.
Great modeling. The tarp is a great trick and I really love the ground cover...it's dulled down perfectly to complement the blue building. Great eye all around!
John
Most excellent...
Doug
very nice, made me a new folder for those pics.... 8)
Great modeling Steve. Brilliant idea about the tarp. I'm going to give that a try.
Thanks everyone. I'm glad you like it.
Thanks for creating this build thread, and showing us some tricks. This diorama came out really great.
And the roof still does not sag ... ;D
Great scene Steve..... 8)
Really great tips on the detailing . I can understand the benefits with the reaper paints, although I don't have any, it is my understanding that they flow so much nicer than the craft paints.
Just curious what you used on the ground cover once you painted the foamboard ? Texture looks great.
Funny how the tank on the roof discussion always pops up once in a while, was brought to my attention when I did the Hunch Landing build, someone had made the suggestion that the verticle beams that supported the base of the tanks went right through the roof to the flooring below. ;D
Thanks everyone.
Lynn, the ground cover is real dirt and mostly Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf Earth color T60 is the model. I mix in some Silflor mostly muted browns and greens. I'm glad you like my choices. I generally try to avoid anything too green. It never looks right to me.
-Steve
Thanks Steve much appreciated.
Just got caught up on this fascinating build thread. Lot of inspiration here and thanks for the disguising tips.
Just a couple of nagging questions related to the water tank controversy (kerfuffle?) How many nail holes did you put in the support framing and what size were they? Inquiring minds want to know.