I got the bottom front from a old plastic building. I dont like to use plastic building just dont like em. but I made a few changes and so far this is where I am. let me know what ya think. thanks still needs paint and alot more work but I think that its coming along well for a scratch build/bash (https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1291.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb551%2Frussellfawcett%2F20140427_005608_zpsrufdtso2.jpg&hash=a13d003367897365a6c762e81de5bb72b42caeda)
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Good start Rusty, I feel the same about plastic.
8)
I like it. The plastic front fits nicely and blends in fine. Neat nail holes, too!
Al Carter
Looking good! I seem to have the same reaction to plastic but in the right hands it can look real nice.
Update not much but time is short (https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1291.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb551%2Frussellfawcett%2F20140503_203941_zpsxqcgsvje.jpg&hash=c4cd0b83d0c0e31900be042f6076311e18f5ff89)
ok so I have decided not to use the red letters. the just look way to big. but here is the one side just about done. I am really happy with the way its all coming together.
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Plastic ain't the b*^stard child it's made out to be!
'Buildin' materials' is 'Buildin' materials' - just depends on the attention and skill of the person usin' them!
Who woulda' thought that them Clever Models' brothers could achieve what they do with paper models?
By the way, I love your 'Pearly's Oyster Bar' sign on the other side! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Thanks. The only kit I have at this time is the heljan kit 802.803 round house . And I have not started it. Still looking for a all wood one...
looking good i like that sign board
i asume it's hO you're looking for a roundhouse?
have you looked at Banta or monstermodelworks for a wood kit from a roundhouse ;)
Cor
I don't know Rusty..........
With what you do with plastic.......... build the one until you find a wood kit and then retire the plastic.
see ya
Bob
What do you mean bob?????
I have about 60 or so buildings in plastic that I am going to re build in wood. Then give the plastic to my nephew that likes trains.
Rusty......
Where I'm going is to go ahead and build them...... populate your railroad and then upgrade to wood as you go along later. I always had this notion of putting down grass or dirt or whatever to make things look done or sort of done......... and then come back later and stand up buildings or add trees or what ever the scene needed.
But on any given day when someone came to visit........ things looked done and believable.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on May 05, 2014, 05:33:08 PM
Rusty......
Where I'm going is to go ahead and build them...... populate your railroad and then upgrade to wood as you go along
later. I always had this notion of putting down grass or dirt or whatever to make things look done or sort of done......... and then come back later and stand up buildings or add trees or what ever the scene needed.
But on any given day when someone came to visit........ things looked done and believable.
see ya
Bob
I hear ya but my grandfather drilled holes in the side for wires glued cardboard to bottom and added flowers that would in what would be about 3.5 scale ft flowers. Not to convincing.... but he had good intentions
Rusty
There's no way this is going to come out nicely. 'Gnat will tell you I ain't no polytician. I'm trying to offer a minor pointer about nail holes.
Nail holes obviously result from the exterior siding being nailed into interior structural members. I noticed on a couple of your exterior walls that the nail rows stop over a window or door frame. Structural framing (2x6, 2X8) would run up either side of the door or window opening. Thus, the nail holes would run vertically along side the opening and vertically from there to the top of the wall. Unless you are working with a rookie builder, Major framing goes around the edge of an opening, but would not end, for example in the middle of a window or door frame, unless you had vertical lines from the corners of the windows to the top of the wall. Check the attached link for a better explanation of what I'm trying, constructively, to describe.
[/font][/size][/color]
. Note where the measuring tape on the photo is pointing. "Put nail holes here". Notice, it's not pointing anywhere in the big, gaping hole directly above the door.
The concept behind your building is great. Just trying to point out a very minor detail.
Quote from: BandOGuy on May 05, 2014, 07:37:01 PM
Rusty
There's no way this is going to come out nicely. 'Gnat will tell you I ain't no polytician. I'm trying to offer a minor pointer about nail holes.
Nail holes obviously result from the exterior siding being nailed into interior structural members. I noticed on a couple of your exterior walls that the nail rows stop over a window or door frame. Structural framing (2x6, 2X8) would run up either side of the door or window opening. Thus, the nail holes would run vertically along side the opening and vertically from there to the top of the wall. Unless you are working with a rookie builder, Major framing goes around the edge of an opening, but would not end, for example in the middle of a window or door frame, unless you had vertical lines from the corners of the windows to the top of the wall. Check the attached link for a better explanation of what I'm trying, constructively, to describe.
[/font][/size][/color]. Note where the measuring tape on the photo is pointing. "Put nail holes here". Notice, it's not pointing anywhere in the big, gaping hole directly above the door.
The concept behind your building is great. Just trying to point out a very minor detail.
Going by you posts I ain't seen much of your work other making comments on others but no thanks on your advise. Sounds like a pc modeler to me. What do you think gnats
I think that we need some pitures of that ChippyBoy's builds!
He probly don't have no nail holes - just bent nails all over the place!
He ain't no polytician, but he ain't no carpenter either!! ::) ::) ::)
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I know that someone is going to point out the bare wood in the front window I just noticed it and will fix that :)
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Rusty
Looks great !!! Don't you love what you find when you take a pic of a build ? I always find something. As for the nail holes ........ well I'll just say I'm with you and gnat
Rusty
The build looks great. I don't see the point on the nail hole issue. Yours look like they are on 16 inch or 24 inch centers which is typical construction. The holes around the windows and doors would typically be covered by the moldings. Keep up the great work and keep posting.
Thanks guys and s&s nice job on the bar mills build on wicked wandas
Hi Rusty:
Loking good. I like the sign. Check out the Mermaid Oyster sign I posted under signs. Maybe you can use it also.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on May 21, 2014, 08:02:03 AM
Hi Rusty:
Loking good. I like the sign. Check out the Mermaid Oyster sign I posted under signs. Maybe you can use it also.
Karl
[/quote
Will do thanks
Never seen anything like that sign (mount). Fantastic!!
John
Hi Rusty:
This is just a suggestion. I try not to use black paint on large parts as its not very pretty nad can hide detail. I only use it on very small parts when necessary. As I said just a suggestion.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on May 23, 2014, 11:23:39 AM
Hi Rusty:
This is just a suggestion. I try not to use black paint on large parts as its not very pretty nad can hide detail. I only use it on very small parts when necessary. As I said just a suggestion.
Karl
are you talking about the bottom front??? if not what are you talking about?? the front was from a old model from years ago when I first started building kits and had no clue what I was doing>> :)
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I know that I need to fill that gap at the peak of the roof but its done.
Rusty as usual looks great! I really love the sign on the side
Rusty it looks great - thanks for sharing the build with us.
Rusty, what method did you use to get the metal roof to look like that? Is that done with the acid method? Mighty fine lookin' structure! Up front and well done.
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Great roof stuff.
Thanx
Bob
Some really nice modeling. I also would like to know how you did the roof.
sorry for the delay on getting back to you guys on the roof. works has been crazy. I cut the roofing sheets to size the used pcb etching but did not over do it. just long enough to start fizzing. then I used SophisticatedFinishes in places but not the whole roof then added the activator. I found that if you use a hair drier it works faster and you can see what its going to look like in min vrs hrs. hope this helps thanks for all the comments. as a new to this type of modeling its a confidence builder honestly thanks guys
Just terrific Rusty, keep up the good work.
Sam
Quote from: rustyfawcett on July 20, 2014, 11:17:19 AM
sorry for the delay on getting back to you guys on the roof. works has been crazy. I cut the roofing sheets to size the used pcb etching but did not over do it. just long enough to start fizzing. then I used SophisticatedFinishes in places but not the whole roof then added the activator. I found that if you use a hair drier it works faster and you can see what its going to look like in min vrs hrs. hope this helps thanks for all the comments. as a new to this type of modeling its a confidence builder honestly thanks guys
This technique sure worked for you the roof looks great.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 20, 2014, 07:59:02 PM
Quote from: rustyfawcett on July 20, 2014, 11:17:19 AM
sorry for the delay on getting back to you guys on the roof. works has been crazy. I cut the roofing sheets to size the used pcb etching but did not over do it. just long enough to start fizzing. then I used SophisticatedFinishes in places but not the whole roof then added the activator. I found that if you use a hair drier it works faster and you can see what its going to look like in min vrs hrs. hope this helps thanks for all the comments. as a new to this type of modeling its a confidence builder honestly thanks guys
This technique sure worked for you the roof looks great.
Thanks john.