I am slow off the block on starting my kit on this build challenge, which is also my first follow along thread, so we will see how it goes. I met Tom at the Albany EXPO and loved his train stories and remember how he had laid out his plan to circle the country by train one day. His passing just after the show hit home. I am glad I met him and happy to include a building in his name on my layout.
I bought Deckers Tar Soap made by FOS Scale Models a year ago to be one of the major industries in the village of Mandryville on the Holland Odessa R.R.. The layout time is 1910 so the building will be in fairly good shape. I selected it as space is at a premium which is more of a large diorama at 6'x4' with an operating train. The structure is interesting with its angles and roof changes, lending it to be a small metal stamping operation having two story piston style stamping machines.
The attached pictures show the kit as it arrived. The directions are very complete as can be seen. There are several castings included and the windows / doors look very good. I will be adding to the castings as well. I am also thinking of changing some or all of the walls to brick.
I found an early thread on this structure done by Karl which I have studied. It's link is as follows:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18371&SearchTerms=Soap
So next posting we will get started.
Thanks
Jim D
Great to have you aboard, Jim, all tan and relaxed after your tropical sojourn. Following along!
Following along Jim
Jim,
I also will be following along.
Tom ;D
I'll be looking in too..... :)
I have made this one. It is a very nice kit.
Mike :)
I'll be following.
I'm in too! I love the looks of this one. 8)
I'll be following, Jim. I'm always fascinated by and learn much from the modifications made to kits.
--George
I will be following to see just what changes you make.
Jim
The design of this kit...the varied roof lines, etc., always attracted me to it. As I recall it came out about the time I started in craftsman structure kits.👍🏻
Quote from: Dave K. on January 07, 2019, 06:35:39 AM
Great to have you aboard, Jim, all tan and relaxed after your tropical sojourn. Following along!
Hi Dave
I am indeed relaxed but glad to be home, 14 days on a boat is 7 too long for me. I hope I've gained ada boy points with the Boss. I have been following your 2019 Challenge build as I plod along getting things together for my attempt. I like the idea of sporadic nail holes in-line you did and will be trying that on Deckers Tar Soap.
This kit had a limited run sometime in the 2000's. FOS then began making the kit again last year. When I saw it I knew it would work well on my small layout. It is about 13 inches long and 4 wide at widest, making it a very good fit for the area planned. With all the angles it yells 'factory'. Hopefully I can do it justice.
Jim
Quote from: Janbouli on January 07, 2019, 07:19:16 AM
Following along Jim
Thanks Jan
Your movie house is looking great.
Jim
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 07, 2019, 07:20:50 AM
Jim,
I also will be following along.
Tom ;D
Tom;
Thanks for checking in. By the time I get some wood stained your going to have your layout finished. I like the gas station, reminds me of the one (we only had one) in the village I grew up in, Scottsville NY.
Jim
Quote from: madharry on January 07, 2019, 09:38:24 AM
I have made this one. It is a very nice kit.
Mike :)
Mike thanks for stopping by. In my research I did not find your first build but I believe I found a second that was a scratch build of part of kit. It really looks great.
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Jim
Thanks for following along Bob and George
I pour over your build threads to learn how to do this stuff. You both provide some of the easiest to read and most informative thread builds on the forum. I hope as I proceed you will be able to provide ideas on ways to improve what I am doing.
To prove I am good at stealing, I mean learning, here is a picture of the latest version of Bob's famous strip-wood soaker with me already using it the same way he showed on his challenge build thread.
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I was in the process of making a PVC pipe version like Bob has when the Boss (wife) asked what I was doing. I explained and she said 'one minute'. She came back with the pictured ceramic container that fits the need perfectly. Turns out they are called cracker trays for holding (you guessed it) crackers and are used usually at parties. The pipe version I have up north does have a drain (with cork) but this one sure cleans up fast.
Thanks
Jim :)
From one Jim to another, thanks for following along.
I do indeed intend to make changes. I thought originally to incorporate brick but after discussion with other members I think I will stay with wood. That said there are things I see I already want to change. The back wall is going to be broken up in some way. The factory will need a water tank given what it will be making. I really want to have tilted open windows. I am lighting my structures now and see lots in that area. I have been learning about Arduino's as time permits. Not sure I will be able to incorporate command control in this building but we will see. Lots of ideas. Time to get off my *** and get some progress made.
Thanks
Jim
Very nice looking structure.
I'll be here Jim.....call anytime. :)
Hi Jim,
I built my version of Deckers long before I joined the forum but here are few pictures of the original . I did do a second scratch build for my friend Roger and as he needed it to fit a space I had to shorten it somewhat.............
Mike :)
OK Let's get started. First up was cutting out the walls and roughing them up some. I use a brass brush as I like the effect it produces. Not too rough but makes the wood look a little weathered.
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Bracing is next. The kit comes with a fair amount of 1/8 inch basswood along with good diagrams for placement. To make sure no warping occurs I added additional bracing, especially on the front and back sections.
I like to use a special bottle with a small diameter metal nozzle to apply the glue. The bottles are inexpensive, 24 cost less then $10.00 from Amazon delivered (with Prime Membership). That works out to about $.41 each. Further, my preferred glue for just about everything on a wood/ plastic kit is ZAP Formula 560 canopy glue. It is not as thick as glues like Elmers which helps keep the nozzle from clogging. However if it does and I can't clear it I simply change out the tip and keep going. With the squeeze bottle and small diameter tip I can really control the amount of glue applied without reverting to using a toothpick (most times, but I keep the toothpicks handy). Here is a link for the bottles:
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Applicator-Translucent-Additional-Quilling/dp/B07JJGQHVQ/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_12?crid=3R6J4FT5GEMUK&keywords=leobro+brodi+slime+storage+containers&qid=1547866081&sprefix=Leobro+b%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-12-fkmrnull
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I made a change to the back wall. I cut the wall, removed a scale 10 inches and replaced it removed wall with a 10 inch 'beam'. The break lines up with the front so that it appears the building had an addition to it at some point. I will weather the smaller section so that it appears newer then the rest of wall.
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I saw Dave K in his 2019 Tom Schwarz kit build had the idea of having the ponce wheel only make random impressions to simulate nail holes. I liked the idea as nail holes are more an artistic touch then what you would really see in HO scale on one of these models. I decided to take the idea one step further by using a tack to make random impressions along a tee ruler. The rule lines were every three scale feet but the impressions are random. It looked good when stained, harder to see when paint applied but we will see after it is weathered. So far I like it.
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I posted a little out of sequence.
Prior to putting the nail impressions in place I painted the back of the walls black using Ceramcoat acrylic paint. However I use an airbrush instead of brushing. For some reason most treads on kit building use airbrushing, if at all, for just the plastic windows and doors, sometimes the metal casting. I find an airbrush great for putting a very controlled coating in place and really shine when putting the first coat of weathering on the building. Further, I use Creamcoat acrylic paint, a craft grade paint, thinned with window cleaner (I use a clear product much like windex). I make sure the mixture if anything is thinner then needed because it is going on braced wood which is forgiving and less is best. The most important step I have found with craft paint is make sure you filter the final solution to remove large particles that would clog the airbrush. Filters are also cheap, less than $.04 each. I simply make several passes putting a thin coat down per pass until it looks the way I want. As for it taking more time then painting, I am not sure, especially when covering lots parts at one time like I am with the walls. I decided to time myself. From the minute I went to get the stuff to airbrush to the minute I put the cleaned airbrush away (and painting mess was cleaned up) was 38 minutes. Of course for final painting, highlighting and such I use a paint brush or sponge.
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Well I was able to get more done today but it is late so I will catch up in the morning.
Following along. I like the idea she came up with for the stripwood stainer ( cracker holder ) . I would never get away with having the stains near the sink ;D
Jim,
Off to a good start. I like the random nail hole, er, nail head stains. Looking good.
Tom ;D
Your thread is going great...and the building is, too. Following...
Looks great I'll be following.
Good morning. Have my cup of coffee in hand so let's see if I can get caught up to where I am with this project. Thanks for the comments guys.
Lynn you are right about the stain wood holder (cracker tray). The Boss was not happy it was used in the house. Nor having the airbrush booth in the office. Both are to go into the garage this week after I complete the re-modeling. The garage will have slat board on all walls, all workbench cabinets are on rolling casters, butcher block work tops, upper cabinets over the rolling workbench cabinets. LED lighting under all upper cabinets . It is going to be cool.
No "catching up", Jim. You enjoy the build. Thanks for inviting us along.
Looking good Jim..... :)
So next is painting the front walls. I played around with several colors. The most common I've seen for kits like this are red, gray, brown and white, usually in some state of disrepair. Since I am modeling 1910 I like to show buildings that are working and well cared for. The time was vibrant, technology was advancing rapidly on many fronts and the future was limitless. Kind of like today (politics not withstanding).
I decided on a 50/50 mix of Ceramcoat #04085 Ink Blot and #02436 Charcoal. This mixture was then thinned with the Enforcer Window Cleaner..The final mixture was 40% paint, 60% window cleaner.
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Hi Jim:
thanks for posting my build. I will be following along and am very interested to see what you do with this kit.
Karl
Using the airbrush I sprayed several thin coats building up the color. I attempted to have unevenness to the color with the tops of the walls slightly darker then the bottoms to reflect how the sun fades paints.
Mistake #2 the 'connecting beam' gluing the two back wall sections must have had glue on its face which the paint is happy to point out. This will be fixed.
Here is finished painted walls, comments on color and overall effect good or bad are appreciated. I can always repaint at this point. I had the Boss look at it and even she noticed the issue with the back wall joint ::) but she liked the color. That said, I am not so sure.
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Colors seem okay to me , I say this with caution because somehow blue seems to be too dark really quick, I have an almost similar color house on my layout and the blue makes it look like a haunted house for some reason.
Well that catches up where I am with the build at the moment.
Karl, thanks for the build thread, while the directions for this kit are OK they still have me saying uhhh? a lot. Seeing how you built this kit when it first came out helps a lot.
Jan, I am leaning to agreeing with you, not sure what it is about blue. That is why I put so much gray into the mix.
Jim D
"Black" looks like a dark grey from a distance. I try to never use actual black except for shadows. You might want to mix a slightly lighter color and paint a test piece to see if you think that looks "more to scale."
dave
Jim,
I prefer white glue to the ACC for wood joints for the exact reason that you had happen. The ACC has far more capillary action and will follow the wood grain to places you did not expect it to appear, as well as closing in the grain.
I do want to say that I really like the thought behind cutting the siding and adding the vertical piece to break up the siding in the back wall of the building. When modeling "our era", the likelihood of siding being "unbroken" even though the structure looks like it has had several additions over time sticks out like a sore thumb, at least IMO.
Creative camouflage would be easier than an all-out fix, maybe.
From my visit to George's in '17.
This would hide it! 😁
Jerry thanks for the practical advice. That is the difference between book knowledge and experience. I took up this hobby only fairly recently as you know so I rely on reading and watching as well as classes when offered. That said it is at the end of the day a hobby I enjoy, mistakes and all. These mistakes cost a lot less to fix then those made in the real world. Wish I could say, I've been at this 50 years plus, naw that would just date me. ::)
As I write this the troublesome wall has been fixed (Elmers was used, thanks), the colors corrected and a bunch more done but pictures will wait. Frankly you amaze with all you need to do in the real world. Where you live weather this time of year is relentless and farming is a 24/7 occupation.
Hope things warm up for you soon but looks like at least another two weeks for your neck of the woods. Good thing God invented coffee.
Dave love the pictures. All I can say is there goes the neighborhood. I did think of the vine idea and might do that anyhow but I took the direct route, I tore it apart and replaced the goofed up area.
.
Jim,
I was reading a build thread by Karl Osolinksi and someone asked what glue he used for wood. He said he used white glue because if he found a joint had moved after being clamped or weighted that he could soften the joint with a little water and reposition the pieces without damaging them. That made perfect sense to me. Prior to that I had used the yellow glue and had to cut apart misaligned joints and replace any damaged parts. Credit where credit is due.
It has been a while on posting but some progress has been made. In addition I have been doing a fair amount of testing.
I primed and painted all windows with Rustoleum Gray 2x primer after removing them from their sprue and cleaning them in warm water. Afterwards they were airbrushed using filtered Antique White Ceramcoat, thinned with clear window cleaner. Finally, they were dipped in an A/I solution and allowed to dry.
The castings were cleaned of any mold marks then primed with brown primer. At this point they were set aside for future work.
I used a small stainless steel brush on the clapboard wood of all walls after they were painted and dried. I lightly brushed with the grain resulting in the 'weather' look I wanted. I then lifted some boards at random. I did not do this too much as the building is suppose to be only about 15 years old and thriving. Afterwards I used an A/I wash on all the walls. It brought out the weathered grain and the nail heads. The picture below shows all wood done and ready for next step. Lot's more to do before putting walls together.
Looks good so far Jim.
With the windows weathered I installed them. Not sure I like some of the heavier weathering on some windows but can correct as I go.
I am using real glass in place of the plastic that come with the kit. In addition I changed out many of the Tichy windows with open windows by Tichy.
I used microscope slide cover glass. While the glass will not be in direct contact with the mullions it will be too close for anyone to be able to tell, that's theory. I have had a couple e-mails with Bob Parrish concerning the issues with using real glass. He has been a great help. I will be practicing his ideas this weekend as I have more windows to install requiring the glass be inset into the window frame.
I use Formula 560 canopy glue if I am just covering across the plastic window and the glass will be in contact with the wood, which is most times. I will discuss the windows requiring the glass be directly glued to the window frame when done. Attached are pictures of the fronts with windows in place, back side showing glass being glued in place and finish look. I think you can see the glass really is clear (I wore latex gloves so as not to leave prints).
Looking good so far Jim.
Jim,
The build is coming along and will be a nice addition to the layout.
Tom ;D
Jim,
This is coming along nicely. Really looking forward to seeing the walls assemble to get the full effect of the different colored walls.
I was talking to a long time modeler and a member of the forum. I mentioned I edited my posting to just to building the structure. He said don't change a thing, model your way, write your way. For me I love to envision the people, place and time period when I work on a structure. That is how a lot of the changes to the building happen as I make it. So here is the main part of the previous post that was removed. Going forward expect more of the happenings of Schwarz Stamping in 1910.
Next up is windows and wall signs. I'd like to take a minute to provide a little background on why I do what I do. I love history and am amazed at what was accomplished in days gone by. I always find myself wondering how a building would look and, just as important, be like to work in during the time I'm modeling, in this case 1910 small town America, NW Ohio.
In 1910 Schwarz Metal Stamping is producing primarily fancy ceiling tiles stamped out of thin iron and copper sheeting. It was two stories due to the needs of the tall belt driven stamping machines. The building is on a siding for raw materials and ships locally by horse driven carts as well as further by rail. The plant operates primarily on a steam boiler. However, electricity had recently been introduced and was beginning to be used for several operations. As part of the booming industrial revolution, times were good. Old man Tom Schwarz was a fair man to work for, unlike many in the industry, he tried hard to see that his people were paid fair and worked in reasonable conditions. When he bought the building couple of years before he had the windows nails keeping them shut removed allowing fresh air in the hot building. He had electric lights installed giving better lighting for the night shift. In expanding the building he had the stair case to the roof removed and a simple roof hatch installed. Not one to turn away an opportunity he would allow some ads on the building, at a price of course. There will be more to read about 'Stomping' Tom Schwarz and his business at the end of this build but back to construction.
Jim,
I noted that your post regarding the history of your structure had been removed. I am glad to see that you have again posted this information. Part of creating a believable model is understanding the history behind the "prototype" even when building a freelance model. I, for one, find research is vital to modeling an era and locale believably.
Jim, it is looking great! And I am all for including your thoughts on style, history, techniques, likes and dislikes. I like to know the "why" and "wherefore" of how everyone does things--it gives insight and adds depth.
--George
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
Many buildings in 1910 used venetian blinds and I want them as part of Schwarz Stamping. My wife heard me asking someone how you make venetian blinds, she said, and I quote,'poke him in the eyes'. She would make a great forum member, she already talks like one. Instead I posted the question and received good information. If you are interested in ideas given click here:
http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4183.0
I followed a modified method Todd Wiley shows on his website. He made a great scene that includes the 'worn' blinds. Here is a link for templates he (or his son) made:
http://hoscalecustoms.com/window-blinds-template-curtains-for-your-next-building/
The blinds for Schwarz Stamping have a used look since it has been in operation for a couple of years. By I using glass I went with decals (one reason I used glass). My plans are to light the interior allowing the blinds to look like they are 'drawn' for night scenes. Over several days I tested a lot of ideas. Here is what I settled on:
Evens Design offers a white decal paper that works well with my HP inkjet printer, here is their link:
https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/pages/adding-white-text
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At $18.99 for five sheets (8.5 inches by 11 inches) it is not cheap. Most likely there are other brands less expensive but five sheets will make a lot of HO scale decals. I used white so the blinds show completely (can't print white). I tried clear Testers decal paper (with bonder) and it just did not work.
First I tested my ideas on regular paper. Then printed just a few blinds on a sheet of decal paper in one area. I ended up reusing the same paper by printing area by area until I had exactly what I needed. Two of the Wiley blinds and one I found on Goggle ended up being used.
For the attached pictures I've put some of the wall sides together using magnets to give an idea of what I am working towards. I also have pictures showing the inside. As you see the inside is getting messy.
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Some caution doing what I did:
1 - I am attempting something the makers of the paper did not expect. I transferred the printed side of the decal so it is facing the glass. This allows the printed pattern to show through the glass window and the white backing is behind it. This is opposite of what the makers of the decal paper tell you to do.
2 - The decals take a lot of care. Follow their directions exactly, especially the print settings (I did not on my first try and ruined the sheet of decal paper).
3 - Cutting and placing each decal correctly takes time, lots of time. I needed to use lighter fluid to stop some of the decals from curling so you need to watch the decals as they dry and not just walk away and assume they will dry flat.
4 - Since the decal is 'backward' (printed side directly on glass) I will be carefully applying glue to each of the decals edges to prevent future delaminating.
That's it for the blinds.
You might notice the weathering is getting cleaned up on on the windows and doors as I go. It is a lot easier to add to an A/I wash then to remove, but it can be done. I am using a micro q-tip (used for cosmetics), dipped in water and carefully cleaning the areas or applying a wash of the paint to 'clean up the look'. Next time I will be much more careful with applying the A/I wash.
Next up wall signs and corner trim.
Jim great job on the blinds and how to. They came out really nice.
Really like the blinds Jim..... 8)
I agree that you should write your build thread in the way that brings you pleasure. That's the point of a hobby. I really enjoy the backstories.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I've ordered some of that decal paper to try out...thanks for the tip!
Looks great Jim! The blinds are a wonderful addition.
By the way I enjoy the back stories. ;)
Thanks folks. I really appreciate the comments, especially as I follow just about every kit you guys post and learn from every one of them. Dave I think you will like the Evens Design decal paper. It can do a lot more then I have used it for so far but I do plan to play with it more,
I did not think I would post again until way after our cruise starting tomorrow but new toys arrived today and I had time to play.
I am going to call this posting: Glass Revisited - Ouch!
While working on this kit I have been testing many different ideas. Previously I showed how I used glass and how it was installed. Today I had time practicing using two tools that just arrived. Working with them for just one hour I said SH**!!
This method is so much more effective I am going to put this posting before the one showing how I did my actual glass installation as well. Anyone following along later can save a lot of time and have a superior model using these tools and doing the following.
The Tools:
General Tools Scribe. It can be bought on Amazon for about $7.00
2) Visbella UV Light Glue and UV light. This can be bought on Amazon for about $12.00. It is a knock off of another equally good tool made by Bondic that costs about $20.00.
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So what they do:
Part One Cutting:
I discussed cutting glass with long time forum modeler Bob Parrish when I started this project. He said to use a scribe made by General Tools. I did not wait and used the X-Knife I have used before, big mistake, I had many mis-cuts, direction problems, fitting problems and so on. But it got done after a lot of work.
Practicing today I placed a microscope slide cover on my self-healing cutting board and measured the length and width needed to be cut so it would fit inside the frame of the back of the window. This way it would cover the window but allow the frame to slide into the opening in the wood wall. This is much tighter tolerance then what I attempted on the kit. I put a ruler along the first cut needed, the ruler has a cork back to help it not move when held in place. Using the General Tool Scribe I made a single pass along the ruler using about the same amount of pressure you use with a pencil, no more. It drew a line straight down the glass cover. I put the glass cover with the scribed line over a small dowel, making sure the line was over the dowel, slight pressure on each side and one perfect cut. Then I did the other side. Another perfect cut. Here is how it looked, this is the FIRST attempt using this scribe, it worked that well.
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Part Two Gluing:
I first attempted was to use canopy glue to weld the glass to the window, difficult but I am sure I could have with enough time, a lot of time. Then I used the Visbella UV Light Glue. I learned about this from forum modeler Darryl Jacobs. He did a posting on using this glue:
http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4096.msg110894#msg110894
First I put a little amount of glue on a post-it-note. Using a toothpick I worked around the outer edge of the backside of the window frame. Then I carefully placed the cut glass on the window using a dowel stick that had tacky clay on the tip so the slide would stick to it but easily come off with a light touch using a separate stick once in place. This resulted in very adjusting needed little so all was in alignment. Finally, I used the UV light per the containers' directions. I moved the light around the glue line using no more then 10 seconds for the entire frame. The glass was firmly, very firmly, attached to the window. Amazing! Here are the results:
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Using glass has just become easy for anyone! Thanks Bob and Darryl! Next building I will be doing this method without a doubt.
Jim - You might enjoy this gizmo...wonderful for placing slide cover glass or acetate without fingerprints. Have a great trip!
Interesting technique, Jim. I do like the look of a smooth window pane as compared to the [admittedly easier] glue blob (Micro Krystal Clear, Canopy Glue, Gallery Glass) approach. How would you say this compares in effort to using thin acetate or styrene sheets?
Looking fantastic, Jim!
Those windows are really something.
Cheers, Mark.
Well we are on the Disney Wonder with kids and grandkids, and I can still check in.
Dave, thanks I ordered one from Amazon, love it! Looking forward to using it.
Vince, as for your question, not sure I am best guy to answer it. Real glass takes more time, no doubt. The improved technique using the right tools really reduced the time and will produce better results then my past efforts. I think the use of UV glue for this is a game changer. So long as glue is only on outer edges it won't show in window panes, and it is clear, much like canopy glue. Using it cuts hours of waiting for glue to dry. I have not used the plastic ever in my windows, and liquid glass only a couple of times. I like the look of real glass so for me it's worth the extra time and effort. Hope that sort of answer helps.
Finally, thanks Mark. I have some other things I want to try on this kit so we will see how it goes.
Well time to call it a day. Grandkids and beaches on agenda tomorrow.
Jim D
Dave's suggestion of the Hobby pal is a good one - I purchased one a while back for placing MV lens in locomotive headlights and it has greatly reduced my creative vocabulary.
Doug
Quote from: NKP768 on February 19, 2019, 12:50:13 PM
... it has greatly reduced my creative vocabulary.
Doug
Is that what that !@#$%^&* that I use so frequently is called? I never knew that!
(Doing those railings on the bar addition generated 2 full sessions of 'creative vocabulary')
dave
Yes Dave - its amazing all the horizons that you can expand through model railroading.
Doug
Quote from: NKP768 on February 20, 2019, 04:29:03 PM
Yes Dave - its amazing all the horizons that you can expand through model railroading.
Doug
Oh, I had that vocabulary long before I was a serious model railroader. I once made a sailor blush, and that was when I was on Scout Camp Staff. (No Scouts were in the neighborhood. The Camp Director had just informed his staff, mostly teenagers, that -we- were responsible for picking up all the garbage because he didn't have the money to pay for the garbage service. There were a couple older adults on camp staff, one was prior service Navy.)
dave
Wow, I post, hop a cruise ship and come back to find I started a mini thread on use of ?@"!, while modeling. I will be careful in my thoughts coming out. Good thing this is a forum and not a podcast. There would be no saving me.
Looking forward to the suction tool. I have some ideas on how to further simplify use of glass and it will be big help. Next post will be back on track. For a while!
Jim D ;)
I just got the suction tool. Either I am an idiot or it is defective. I can't pick up a flies wing.
ed
Works great for me.
Jim! The blinds on your structure turned out great! Hopefully the blinds you printed from our site were easy enough to work with. I also really like the color scheme you used for this structure
Sorry for the slow response and update folks. Dave: the suction tool works great, especially for glass placement.
Brent: Your tempetes enabled making blinds easy, thanks for posting them on your site. I used two of the designs. I have them on file now for future buildings, thanks.
My last step prior to putting the walls together was to lightly dry brush the clapboard using antique white. I tried to only touch the very edges of the clapboard.
FOS provides a template showing where the walls are located. I have a Micro-Mark magnetic gluing jig so was able to tape the template on the bottom of the tray and use it to make sure each wall was positioned correctly. It was extremely helpful. Some walls are at odd angles and the template and magnetic jig allowed me to position them correctly, make sure the they were sanded to the right angle, use metal squares to ensure the walls were straight, and clamp everything securely for gluing . I found I needed to glue carefully and only one or two walls at a time. Putting all walls in place happened over four days. Moreover. I needed additional bracing put in place, especially in the area of the front freight doors I have posted the pictures with comments attached. I spent a lot of time making sure the walls were vertical (90 degrees using squares).
The second change to the kit can be seen here. I replaced the shingled enclosed staircase wall shown in the kit with a board and batten wall. Board and batten fits Ohio better for that time. I don't like how the color came out (too dark) so it will most likely be painted a light gray with the darker color showing here and there for aging. We'll see.
With all the walls and angles this kit required a lot of patience getting each wall lined up correctly. I found myself often using every magnetic brace I had as well as clamps for the upper walls. It was like putting a puzzle together. Here are some pictures showing what I mean.
Finally I got to the last wall to install, the front side-angled one with the freight entrance, and wouldn't you know it, after all my care and patience I broke the glass in the windows over the entrance. @@##!
So I thought what would Stomping Tom Schwarz do? Well as you can see, the windows are boarded up and work goes on. All walls are up. On the back wall you can see over the fright entrance what will be a 'ghost' sign of the old Decker Tar Soap Company. The new overhang will likely cover most of it. Also, there is a circus poster. I tested some ideas on type of paper to use but ended up staying with sanding the copy paper till it is thin. More signs will show up as we go but I an testing using the Evens Decal paper first.
It's starting to look like a building Jim.....nice progress. :)
Looks great Jim. It does look complicated to put together correctly.
That's a lot of walls to put together.
Jim
Hey Jim:
Looks just great. I built thisone when it first came out. It's A great kit. One I really liked.
Karl
Jim, looking really nice, and all those lovely unusual wall angles are making a very interesting structure. Very pleasing to the eye.
--George
Folks
Thanks for the encouragement and the nice comments. I am making progress in spurts on this kit. Also after finishing a step I find something I don't like and end up going back to fix it. In this case it was the covered staircase.
However first the instructions called for adding 1/8 inch basswood as the foundation for the structure. I am planning to add LED lighting and have viewing to parts of the interior so I added mat board as well. This adds .05 inch to the height. Combined with the 1/8 inch basswood this will make the foundation about 15 HO scale inches.
To give the foundation a finished look I added some of the brick texture paper I have. The pictures attached show the results.
That brick foundation looks pretty good. Just make sure that the foundation is not flush with the walls. The walls should overhang a little bit, so water drips off rather than running between the foundation and the walls. (That's one of those things that bothers me whenever I see it on a model. :P )
dave
I had used pre-made board and batten from Mt. Albert (Fasttracks) for my first effort on the covered staircase wall. I just did not like how it came out. Too dark, too ugg, just blah. So I decided to try again, this time making my own.
I cut cardstock material to shape and marked off scale 12 inches across the top and bottom. I took 2 x 12 scale lumber and dipped it in Hunterline Driftwood for about 10 seconds. After drying I used a natural sponge and dry brushed Antique White Cremacoat board by board to help create random patterns of pealing. I glued the boards side by side on the index card. Flipping the glued boards over I trimmed them to the correct length and shape of the index card. I then took 2 x3 scale lumber and dipped it in Hunterline Cordovan Brown. These boards were also dried brushed but with Ivory color. They were then cut to size and glued to the joints between the 12 inch boards.
Finally, when everything was dry (the next day), I tried something I had read (frankly everything did I've read!!). I took a natural sponge and dipped it in Hunterline Light Gray. I tapped it on a paper towel until it was spotty and 'dry brushed' the wall using the sponge. I liked it. So I did the same thing using Antique White on the other walls, just touching the clap board so if any paint transferred it was right on the edge. I liked that too, much more than my previous efforts using a brush. I think the new staircase wall came out better. Still room for improvement but it's in the right direction.
I wanted to see how the white Evens Decal material would do as a sign so I used it for the front wall sign; Schwarz Stamping & Mfg. I again used 2 x 12 scale boards and made the backing. They were dipped in Driftwood and placed on two-sided tape side-by-side. I printed out the sign and let it dry overnight. After placing the decal on the backboard and letting it dry I framed the sign with 1 x 3 boards dipped in Hunterline Brown. What I was hoping for is the decal to allow the wood to show through. This sign took a while to do, I can see the wood showing but not sure it is enough to do again. Still I learned something. By the way, I ended up having to glue the edges of the decal down with canopy glue so that it would not peal. I will be using the Evens material again but I think it works best on glass or plastic.
Here is where we are now:
Quote from: deemery on March 17, 2019, 05:36:03 PM
That brick foundation looks pretty good. Just make sure that the foundation is not flush with the walls. The walls should overhang a little bit, so water drips off rather than running between the foundation and the walls. (That's one of those things that bothers me whenever I see it on a model. :P )
dave
Funny you mentioned that Dave, it is something I try to take into consideration. I just finished catching up where I am at present. I think the foundation came out OK, it will get weathered later but I need to keep it seperate from walls for now so I can work on electric, which is next up.
Beautiful modeling Jim.
Finally made enough progress to report. Next up on the project is roofing which on this kit is interesting and fun. That said I also managed to find the hard way to accomplish it. ::)
However, first a moment of venting. Decker's Tar Soap is not an inexpensive kit. I have been happy with the project, that is until I came to the roof. The base material is laser cut cardboard. It is nice cardboard as far as cardboard goes but none-the-less but it is CARDBOARD! I know there is always the option of using a different material (and did) by frankly I expected a little better. I found 1/64 thick micro plywood at Michaels and used the cardboard as templates to cut out the plywood. A laser would have made short work of the plywood and would fit the overall quality of the kit better if used instead of cardboard. Plywood does not get soggy.
OK, moving on.
Back to the fun. The directions call for rolled roofing on the left, staircase and middle section. Gravel roofing on the flat roof and finally corrugated on the dormer (?) section on the flat roof. I changed out the tar roof on the middle section and staircase with copper seamed roofing. To add some realism (or artistic license) I figured out how to get the copper to have a verdigris paina look using google (soak the copper in Miracle Grow and vinegar overnight, take out, let air dry and watch it change color). With some soft brushing I think it adds something to the model. I did go with a gravel roof for the top part of the staircase per contractor Greg D's suggestion. I used liquid lead to simulate the seal between the copper and the walls of the building as well as between the copper an upper part of the staircase.
Using Delta Ceramcoat Charcoal color, I cut and painted the paper strips needed for the rolled roofing. To present a finished, more permanent roof I again simulated sealing between the strips with liquid lead.
Then it was the main flat roof's turn. The directions call for putting down a thick black paint and sprinkling dirt (provided) to simulate a gravel roof. I remembered others (starting with Tom Langford) using sandpaper instead and painting it to get the right color. Also, I remembered to use the two-sided tape method of adhering the roof material to the sub-roof. I remembered this while already gluing the strips to the left part of the roof. Nothing like gluing a roof to not forgetting the two-sided tape method ever again. Only problem with all this remembering is it came after the main roof was on along with the domer structure and elevated area which the original kit has for a chemmy but I will use for something cooler, a water tower.
I had two options, one take the domer apart along with the frame for the elevated area then put down the sandpaper, paint it and put the dormer and elevated platform back in place, OR, make a template and make a complicated cutout of the sandpaper which might take three hours, yep I went with plan D (for Dumb). I did have one good idea, rather than simply painting the 180 grit sandpaper I used the sponge technique to apply first a light gray in a random pattern, next a medium brown, next dark umber and finally the charcoal gray (looks like grimy black). Building up the paint this way gave nice depth of color.
To finish, like the other roofs I used the liquid lead to simulate sealing where needed.
Finally, I cut the paper corrugated roofing material to 2 x 8 length, painted, weathered and covered the dormer area. I will be finishing the roof by adding trim underneath the ledge per directions and to help ensure the roof does not leak light when the structure is lite. So here is the building at this phase. I have left the foundation off and put the water tower in the place it will have when finished to give an idea how things are going to look.
Very nice Jim.
It's really coming together nicely, Jim. Nice job experimenting with new techniques...the walls look great! Still following...👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks guys. Appreciate you following along. I am enjoying working on the kit but am not really happy at this point how it is coming. The copper looks wrong in pictures, better when looked at. Moreover the different roofs just don't come together. Going back to drawing board. Any ideas let me know.
Jim
Great roof lines and the walls look great.
Jim, count me as one who likes how the roofs look. The more I look at the copper roof, the more I like it. It grows on you. But your sponge-painted flat roof is the icing on the cake. It is one of the coolest looking model roof treatments I have seen. I am certainly going to try out that technique.
--George
George, you made my day. I am glad you like the gravel roof, it was from combining what others have done. Thanks! :)
With all the various angles and types of roofs the kit uses I am trying to combine them so they enhance each other and the model. That is why I had issues with the rolled roof, copper roof and the corrugated. I think I have come up with a look that works. Talking with Jerry Beach, I have changed the left side to what I hope is a more prototypical style for a building in 1910. The cooper seam roof in the middle I left as I think it gives the model some individuality and I completely redid the corrugated part. The material just looks wrong on this model when overlapped, just too thick. Hope the result looks good. Feedback on everything positive or negative appreciated.
Looks great Jim.
Jim,
Definitely better, at least IMO. Have you considered adding some patina to the copper with some dry brushed jade acrylic? I think that would help the copper to look older and maybe add some contrast to the entire structure.
Well it is tax day which is also the day we are suppose to have our kit build complete. I am not going to make it. Still lots to do, mostly details and lighting but I don't want to rush things.
I was able to get some of the roof structures in place and lighting since last posting so I thought I would show where I am on the winter challenge finish day. It will be a while before I can get back to finish the kit but I should have it done by June. I will post when I finish.
The structure is designed to be tight to the siding. I am thinking of adding a loading dock. We will see. Hope you like.
Don't worry Jim , I didn't finish mine either , still has to go on my layout.
Jim, it looks fantastic, finished or not. A very instructive build thread so far.
--George
Jim - Didn't finish mine either. Jim
Hey Jim:
Looks just great.
Karl
Jim,
Looks really good. I like what you did with the copper roofing, it looks much more realistic to me. I like the differences in the various wall colors, it really brings out the look of various additions to the original structure. Looking forward to the final photos.
Hey Jim.....I didn't get mind half finished.....good looking build and improvements from the original kit. 8)
Thanks folks, this has been a fun kit to build. Time to continue. With the main structure essentially built it was time to make the building come alive. To start I was able to find 1/2 inch size wood letters. I used them to make the sign on the roof. I essentially followed the directions in the FOS directions for the original sign. However, I used 12 x 12 scale lumber for the uprights and 2 x10 cross members. The back of the letters were painted with Cermacoat Charcoal Gray and the front with Fire Truck Red. I made sure the posts sat on the main corners of that part of the building.
The water tower is a laser kit made by ITLA. The footprint of the tower fit perfect on the raise section of the roof which FOS has placed originally for a chimney. I simply built the kit and left as is. These are the roof structures you see on the previous picture.
I decided to used HO scale paper to help design the decks for the front and the back of the structure. At this point I simply designed what I thought would work and did not follow the directions for the kit. For this part I tried a new tool I bought from Uncle Ben's.. It is a nail wheel tool with a unique tooth structure. It produces a very tight pattern and needed very little pressure. I liked it and plan to use it more.
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For the front and back awnings I used paper corrugated sheeting made by KC Workshops. It is very thin and looked much more correct then the paper corrugated material that came with the kit. I used scale lumber to make the frames. The corrugated sheeting was cut to 24 inch width and spray painted with a gray primer. It was then 'rusted' using pastel chalks. It was then glued to the frame side-by-side so no light showed between them.
The copper wire used for the awning supports was painted using the Charcoal color. The Charcoal paint was mixed with white glue to attach the wire to the awning and to the building.
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.
As I mentioned previously I wanted to light part of the interior as well as two goose neck lights on the outside. To accomplish this I bought the goose neck lights from Evens Design. The other LED lights came from Micro Lumina. I followed the directions Micro Lumina provides on their web site. I had an issue with one of the interior lights but eventually figured it out. It looks more complex then it really is:
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Apparently my wife liked my work.
So with all the vents, chimneys and smoke stacks put in place here is Tom Schwarz's Metal Stamping Mfg. Company:
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I learned a lot and had a lot of fun making this kit. I plan to place it on the main street siding of the northern branch of the Holland Odessa R.R.. Currently I am working on a small diorama for the building. I will post a picture when I get it completed. Thanks for following along and for all the help.
Jim D
Nice looking structure, Jim.
Jeff
Well done Jim.....great work. 8)
Jim, fantastic! I love the roof variety--my favorite part of following along, but every aspect is well done. Congrats on a beautiful building.
--George
Really nice modeling Jim. Good job on the lighting.
Good looking Build Jim.
Jim
Nicely done
Looks great Jim
Hey Jim:
Nice job on the kit. I built that when it first came out.
Karl
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on April 28, 2019, 07:28:44 AM
Nice looking structure, Jim.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I decided to do the winter challenge as I met and liked Tom Schwarz. I am still new at the hobby and have a lot to learn. Making this kit was definitely a learning process.
Jim
Quote from: Opa George on April 28, 2019, 09:49:58 AM
Jim, fantastic! I love the roof variety--my favorite part of following along, but every aspect is well done. Congrats on a beautiful building.
--George
George, thanks for following along. The kit sure has a lot of angles for such a small building. I have a wedge area on the layout where I know it will fit in. I like using sandpaper as the base for flat roofs. The sponge idea came from the Wiley's podcast. Appreciate the compliments.
Jim D
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 28, 2019, 09:37:43 AM
Well done Jim.....great work. 8)
Greg appreciate the help on construction reality in building this kit. Glad you liked how it came out.
Jim
To everyone, thanks for the nice comments. Karl, I printed out the pictures you posted on your kit build of Deckers, it really helped when figuring out all the angles.
Curt, thanks on the lighting. I started lighting up my buildings a couple of kits ago. I think it really brings something extra. Following Slim's directions and methods shown at Micro Lumina makes it understandable.
Jim
Nice job Jim
Doug
Thanks Doug appreciate it.
I have added some better outdoor pictures with a quick diorama I threw together. I did this as a small group of NMRA guys get together here every couple weeks to model and talk. I took the kit and asked one who is an MMR judge to review the structure. It rated a 79 on the judging scale. 87 is needed to get an award. So I am learning but learned were I need to improve. It still was fun to build.
Jim D
That's a shame Jim.
Jim, I trust that the judge(s) gave you a breakdown of where you lost points? That's the main way to learn on what needs to improve/add/etc.
Hi Folks
I need to clarify the score given by my NMRA national judge. I simply made the kit for my layout, using and trying to improve on what I have learned to date. I made no effort to make the kit to NMRA merit or contest standards. I would have loved having it judged as meeting the merit standard but was more curious to learn how NMRA looks at structures. Here is recap of feedback I got:
First, everything has to documented. I of course had none but this build thread might at met requirement if I made sure I followed rules.
1) ALL windows have to be glass, and moreover you must not be able to see that the mullions are not flush on glass. In other words glass must be fitted to window. Mine were mostly glass but laid across back of window. Sometimes you can see separation from an angle. Also, I bailed on the four tilted small windows and used 560 canopy glue. ZAP, big no no. Also one was tilted and will be re hung.
2) There is a section of the kit that recessed over the main entrance. The clapboard siding simply comes together with no corner molding at 90 degree angles. I missed this, busted.
3) One wall warped slightly so that corner trim was not flush with clapboard. Separation a no no.
4) Several end cuts on main sign on roof were not stained showing raw wood.
5) Pipe castings that are smokestacks with opening showing must be drilled out. Vents to have grill work like functioning vents.
Some other small things but those are the biggies. It was interesting to learn what and how a building is graded. This kit rated as average complexity and normal additions or scratch building. I think some items are worth changing and make sense. Others I am not sure about.
Thanks
Jim
Quote from: Jim Donovan on May 01, 2019, 10:25:57 AM
Hi Folks
I need to clarify the score given by my NMRA national judge. I simply made the kit for my layout, using and trying to improve on what I have learned to date. I made no effort to make the kit to NMRA merit or contest standards. I would have loved having it judged as meeting the merit standard but was more curious to learn how NMRA looks at structures. Here is recap of feedback I got:
First, everything has to documented. I of course had none but this build thread might at met requirement if I made sure I followed rules.
1) ALL windows have to be glass, and moreover you must not be able to see that the mullions are not flush on glass. In other words glass must be fitted to window. Mine were mostly glass but laid across back of window. Sometimes you can see separation from an angle. Also, I bailed on the four tilted small windows and used 560 canopy glue. ZAP, big no no. Also one was tilted and will be re hung.
2) There is a section of the kit that recessed over the main entrance. The clapboard siding simply comes together with no corner molding at 90 degree angles. I missed this, busted.
3) One wall warped slightly so that corner trim was not flush with clapboard. Separation a no no.
4) Several end cuts on main sign on roof were not stained showing raw wood.
5) Pipe castings that are smokestacks with opening showing must be drilled out. Vents to have grill work like functioning vents.
Some other small things but those are the biggies. It was interesting to learn what and how a building is graded. This kit rated as average complexity and normal additions or scratch building. I think some items are worth changing and make sense. Others I am not sure about.
Thanks
Jim
Glad to hear that you got decent feedback. Glass vs acetate, hmm. Makes sense on a conformity basis, but about a -1/2 point.
Many years ago, a good friend of mine entered models for judging in local meets but never got to the 87.5 point mark. He complained that the judges held a grudge. Back then, he couldn't get any feed back. I took several of his models to a national model contest, where they failed miserably. But there, I was able to talk to the judges, wrote down their feedback. He made the changes and consistently got 90+ points and was a happy camper and got his MMR.
It has been months since I 'finished' Schwarz Stamping. However since then I made several changes to the model. Many were corrections that had been noted when it was evaluated. Others were to bring the building to life. It is now on the layout, not yet fully detailed, but close enough. So I thought I would show Schwarz Stamping as it became. If you look you can see old Stomping Tom Schwarz himself with his dog about to go to the party across the street.
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It was a fun model to build. Hope you enjoy the final pictures.
Jim Donovan
Lookin Good! It really fits into your scene nicely.
;D ;D ;D
Thanks for sharing. Looks good to me.
I built this kit a while back and my wife put it on the shelf in our living room. She has first choice on any model I build.
I have seen several versions of the finished kit over the years and have enjoyed seeing them all.
If it were not expensive, I would buy another to kit bash.
I have been following the work of Jason Jensen Trains on Youtube. Jason takes FOS scale models like this and makes a few smaller buildings out of them.
His work makes me want to start over on several kits and re-do them.
Hi Darryl,
I have to agree with you about Jason Jensen Work. It makes me want to restart again as well! That guy is amazing. Another George Sellios in the making.
;D ;D ;D
Amazing Job Jim..............Dennis
We are back in Florida. Thank you for checking in and the compliments.
I agree about Jason. I was fortunate to meet him last year at the EXPO in Albany and then again when a group of us met up to visit George Sellios and his incredible F&SM layout this past July. From 9 am till we had to leave around 5 pm he spent the entire time up close looking at the scenes or talking with George. Then he went home energized and began building a new layout. He is as nice in person as you see in his videos, and yes, he sleeps perhaps four hours a night.
Jim D