Hello everyone.
I decided to build Darnell's Autobody from Foscale for the 2019 Tom Schwarz Build Challenge.
I picked this kit up at the Altoona Expo.
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This is the pilot taken from the FOS website.
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First step of every build is laying out the components and taking an inventory.
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Next step is my most disliked portion but the most necessary. Bracing all the walls. I have a few 100 clothespins I use for this task. I try to brace all the walls and prime all the castings in one sitting so I can let both things dry overnight.
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After all the bracing dries I rough up the siding with a wire brush. This is my favorite type of wire brush. They are sold at Home Depot in the welding section for a few dollars.
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I colored all the walls and stripwood with A&I. This will be my base for the paint.
Thanks for checking in. Should be putting some color on the walls tonight.
-Steve
I'll be looking in Steve. :)
Hey Steve:
I built that one. Great kit. Have fun will be following along.
Karl
Looks like a great kit, I'll be following.
That looks like a lot of fun to follow.
Almost got this one at the Expo, but the budget called "Foul!" after I had already picked a bunch at Doug's booth. Following along...
Following along as well. That little wire brush from Home Depot is one of my favorite distressing tools. ;)
Steve,
This is one of my favorite FOS kits although I haven't purchased it yet. I need to get one on those brushes.
Nice job so far on the build.
Tom ;D
I made a bit more progress today. I got the main walls, the trim and the windows painted.
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These are my 2 color choices I picked for the main building. This is my go to color for red and of course any basic white will do in this case.
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I coated the walls in mineral spirits first to try to help the paint resist adherence to the walls. I tried to get a picture of how wet it is once I start adding the paint, it's just damp and shiny but not dripping.
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With this technique using white paint or any lighter color it really needs 2 coats to make it even. This is the first coat.
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2nd coat is down. I let this set up for a few hours.
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I painted the castings all red. I use a stiff brush for this and I dab on the paint intentionally missing areas.
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The wood trim is painted red using a wet paintbrush applied very poorly intentionally missing spots again. This is a technique I learned from Brett Gallant. He calls it "Wet Brushing".
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Same technique for the upper red section of the front wall.
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After the walls dried a bit I attacked them with a wire brush. This time I used a stiff toothbrush style. It pulls the paint up and gives it a subtle peeling effect.
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This is the walls side by side before any peeling as been done.
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One of the smaller wall sections for the dormer. After wire brushing I used some scotch tape to pull the paint off in areas.
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This is the other type of siding included in the kit after 2 coats of white.
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This is the vertical siding after some heavy wire brushing and using some tape to pull some areas off.
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Front wall section after working on it for a bit.
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I added a wash of A&I to the vertical siding.
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All the walls got a coat of A&I. I'm not sure if I'll add another wash to darker them up a bit. This is an automotive garage so it should be very dirty.
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Close-up of the front siding after the peeling paint effect and an A&I wash. It's subtle but adds some texture to the paint.
I've never had much luck getting sponge or terrycloth peeling paint to look right. Rubber cement works well for me but takes a long time. This technique is fast, easy and I'm happy with the results.
Thanks for checking in. I should be adding the trim to the walls and dropping the windows and doors in place next.
-Steve
Wow. Awesome start. I like the mineral spirits & paint technique. Looks very cool.
Yes, nice wall technique.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice job on the walls Steve
Doug
Interesting technique for the walls, as I was reading along I was thinking A/I would really give some nice definition, nicely done.
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
I made a little more progress yesterday on the kit. Started getting the walls detailed a bit.
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The main garage door is made with 2 pieces of laser cut wood.
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The 2 pieces get glued on top of each other. Pretty straightforward and turns into an accurate garage door.
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I sprayed the door with Krylon Dark Gray primer.
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I weathered it with some chalks.
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I added the window glass and dirtied everything up a bit.
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The kit includes a few pieces of wood cut to simulate corrugated metal. I haven't worked with this material in the past but I'm curious to see how it works out. One piece is designed to be cut into a door opening to simulate a roll-up metal door. The rest will form the walls of an addition to the building.
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Here is the piece for the door cut to size and weathered with chalks. The only down side I found with the wood corrugation is it's pretty fragile. I broke this piece along the corrugation in a few pieces just handling it. No big deal and you can't see the cracks once I glued it in place.
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Here's the corrugated door glued in place.
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Both doors glued in position.
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I added some signs and the window glass to the top row of windows. I'm still going to add a few more signs to the front. All the signs were weathered with chalks. I didn't use any A&I on the signs. The chalk dirties everything up but still keeps it clear enough to read. Sometimes you lose clarity with A&I.
I still have to complete the area to the right of the wall. It houses a small door and window that simulates a retail counter. I should get to that detail this afternoon.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Great job! I know I've picked up a few ideas/tips along the way that I want to try. :D
Love the effects, Steve. Question about your A&I wash over the white walls - how strong? 1 tsp/pint? 2?
Really nice modeling Steve.
I'm really liking this build thread, Steve. Great results so far and I plan to try that wet brushing technique.
--George
Thanks everyone for the positive feedback.
Vince- it's 4-5 tsp per quart. I test it the mix out on some scrap and add more ink if it looks weak. A quart usually lasts me a few years. I try to always write my mix on the bottle so I can duplicate it. I also write my paint colors on the inside of the boxes of any kits I build.
George- Brett has a great tutorial of it on the SierraWest website. https://sierrawestscalemodels.com/videos.html
-Steve
Hey Steve:
Looks great so far.
Karl.
Steve,
Love it, great job. The walls look fantastic.
Tom ;D
Steve,
The weathering is right on. The project looks great.
Thanks guys.
A bit more progress was made last night on the kit.
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This is the door assembly for the right side opening.
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Here it is all glued together.
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I painted it white and weathered it with some chalks and A&I. I covered it with some signs and glued it in place. I also dirtied up the lower couple feet of the building.
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I started gluing the walls together. Not much interesting happening on the other 3 walls yet. I did add some window shades all around. I bought a combo pack of olive green, light tan and dark tan construction paper I use for this.
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I also assembled this little addition piece for the left side of the wall.
Next step is the corrugated siding for the 2 areas. I have a few ideas of what I'd like to do but I'm still experimenting to get what I want. I'll share my results later on today.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Looks really nice Steve.
Hey Steve:
Looking good. The colors & light weathering look just great.
Karl
Thanks everyone.
I made a bit more progress this weekend on the kit.
The biggest challenge I had was trying to get a decent coloring I liked for the corrugated siding portion of the building. I wanted it to be the same color as the rest of the building but some peeling and rusting on the panels. I always struggle with getting corrugated metal to look good to my eye unless it's super rusted.
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This is what I came up with. The corrugated material is wood just like I used for the metal door. After some experimentation I came up with a very easy way to do the peeling paint. I sprayed a base of dark gray krylon primer and let it cure overnight. 2 coats of white craft paint same color I used for the main building. I washed the walls with A&I and as soon as it started to dry I used some tape on my fingertip to pull up some sections. The alcohol in the wash causes the paint to loosen a bit. I poked it in spots with a toothpick also. I gave it another coat of A&I and some chalk weathering.
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Here is the wall assembled. I didn't paint or prime any of the panels before I added them to the wall. After everything was dry I painted and weathered it.
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The small side shed is a weird shape so I had to get a little weird to hold everything in it's position while it dried.
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Once I started adding some signs it started to look right to me. After reviewing the pictures I'm going to rust up the bottoms of the walls a bit I think.
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I added the roof. It was painted with dark gray krylon.
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The little addition sits on top of the roof.
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Here I have both roofs in place.
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The kit came with this cool laser cut skylight.
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I didn't take a picture of the skylight before I added it but I just painted it with the same dark gray I used for the roof and added some acetate for the windows.
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I added the 2 rooftop signs.
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The corrugated metal pieces I showed earlier fit in between this smaller shed and the main building. The shed was built and weathered the same as the main building.
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I added a few chimneys but I still need to add a bit of detail to the roofs.
Thanks for checking in.
Next step is adding some details and figuring out how I want to build the base and tie everything together.
-Steve
I really like that effect on the corrugated siding. The Inkahol darkens the white up nicely. Great job.
You are doing a really great job with this build Steve. The weathering of the different materials on the building looks very nice.
Really nice looking build Steve.
Steve,
Well done, very very well done. I love it!
Tom ;D
Hey Steve:
Looking just great. I built this one when it firs came out. It's A fun kit to build. Continue to have fun.
Karl
Nice job Steve - looks great.
Doug
Very, very nice. And that includes your corrugated siding treatment. Looks just like some reference photos that I have.
Thanks everyone.
I made some decent headway these last few days on the kit. It's mostly finished but I may add a few more things over the weekend.
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It took me a little bit to figure out a concrete layout for the diorama. I do most of my diorama bases out of blue foam.
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I made the concrete out of plaster of paris.
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I carved some cracks and expansion joints with a cheap pocket knife. I sprayed the whole area with light gray auto primer. I tried not to get it directly on the foam because it will attack it.
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I weathered it first with a ground down charcoal briquet. This is a technique I took from George Sellios. It works well and it's very controllable.
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This kit came with the sidewalk structure base. It worked out ok but it's made from some type of paper composite and it didn't react well to the weathering. It really started to come apart at some areas. I add some grass and dirt in the little area between the 2 buildings. It would be difficult to scenic this area once everything is down.
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I glued the building to the base. I ended up just putting whatever I could on top of it while it dried.
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I found this neat oil tank casting in my parts bin so I decided to make a little base for it and use it on this diorama.
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I started building a wooden base for it.
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I laid some planks over the top and used the casting as guide for the size.
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Added the legs.
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Cross bracing.
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I weathered the wood base a bit and added some little details. The hose it made from florist wire from any arts and crafts store. The rag is made from kleenex.
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I added bunch of details around the scene. This building is going to sit pretty far back from the front of the layout so I didn't get really crazy with the weathering of the castings. Most of it will be there but not really visible once it's placed into the scene.
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The vehicle frame is from a Woodland Scenics Tow Truck kit. The shelf unit with the tires I bought from George Sellios at an open house several years ago. I don't remember if this pallet with the cinderblock on it came with the kit or out of my castings box. The engine is out of my casting box and I'm not sure where it came from.
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I feel like I need to dirty the concrete a bit more after looking at this pictures. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.
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All the oil spots were made with Reaper Adamantium Black thinned with some water. It's very similar to Floquil Graphite which I used to like alot for grease and oil.
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The vehicle is a Jordan Essex I believe. I would like to have a few more vehicles on the diorama but I only have a limited amount of Jordan kits left and they cost a little more than I want to spend at the moment. I'm hoping someone comes out with an alternative soon.
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This how I'm planning to have the back street of my town. The road will run in front of the 3 dioramas. I still need to play with the elevations but the placement looks promising to me.
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It sits pretty far back from front. Maybe 4-5 feet. As I work forward I plan to get a bit more detailed with some mini scenes and things like that.
Thanks for checking in.
I'm going to be starting on the next building down the line next week. I'm not sure what that will be just yet.
-Steve
Gorgeous scene Steve, true craftsmanship , the concrete looks great to me , it looks like they swept it with a broom and that in my idea would be the minimal they would have done in real life. Fantastic realistic scene, thank you for sharing with an abundance of photo's.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 26, 2019, 05:54:01 AM
Gorgeous scene Steve, true craftsmanship , the concrete looks great to me , it looks like they swept it with a broom and that in my idea would be the minimal they would have done in real life. Fantastic realistic scene, thank you for sharing with an abundance of photo's.
Ditto. Killer diorama, Steve.
Quote from: vinceg on January 26, 2019, 07:19:10 AM
Quote from: Janbouli on January 26, 2019, 05:54:01 AM
Gorgeous scene Steve, true craftsmanship , the concrete looks great to me , it looks like they swept it with a broom and that in my idea would be the minimal they would have done in real life. Fantastic realistic scene, thank you for sharing with an abundance of photo's.
Ditto. Killer diorama, Steve.
Same here. Outstanding as always!
John
Wonderful diorama. The whole scene looks great.
Jeff
Really awesome build Steve.
Beautiful scene Steve.....well done. 8)
Thanks everyone!
I really like this scene!!
Dick
This is turning out very nicely Steve. Great job!
I've enjoyed following your build every step of the way, but the quality of your build really hit home when you shared the overall scene. Beautiful job of maintaining consistent weathering from build-to-build so that the sum total is consistent overall and as if created all at once. It's one of the things I marvel over on the F&SM. Beautiful job, and thanks for sharing your work!
Thanks again everyone.
Dave, Thanks for the positive feedback. I definitely try to keep some consistency between all the different buildings. I do have a few buildings on the layout I built when I first got back in the hobby that I will most likely pull and rework a bit to fit the overall feel of the layout more. George definitely has a style that you know immediately and I think that's why everything he does fits so well together. His older book is the reason I got into the hobby. His work is a huge inspiration for me.
-Steve