Sub-titled Bobbies misadventures into kit botching.
A bit of a forward - It's been close to 25 years since I have built a structure. My very kit was A Historical Scale Miniatures Capistrano Depot. Perhaps not the best choice as I never finished it. The on to Campbell kits, FSM, etc. Then life got in the way. But I find that I need structures. Obviously, I like wood for building, but if I am going to get back in the game, I need to expand my horizons, albeit just a toe in the water.
Convention shows that one needs to show the directions. And these were the first Vert da Ferk moment in my journey.
The of course the kit contents. Please note that the long office annex side wall was cutoff some time ago, so it's just to be a rectangle. And yes, that chimney has issues as the roof is at a 30 degree angle and it is cast at 45 degrees. That and the infamous clerestory casting that is just about pur3 garbage and wont be used. I didn't show the cardboard that was to be used for the roof and sheets of sandpaper for the roofing.
First up is to glue the resin wall sections together. One side wall to one long wall first. I did need to pay attention as to where I wanted the side door. since the kit was cut down. Well I see that I miss posted the order. I did try t use the Rite-Way clamps, but not completely strong enough. However, the 1" super magnets did work holding through to the 1x2x3 steel block for the corners.
So time to spray the primer. I have several different cans of grey spray paint, and sure enough grabbed the wrong one. Just about finished and noticed the dripping. Another Vert da Ferk. A quick wipe of a shop rag and problem solved. But how/why? Seems I grabbed the Rust-Oleum 2X Ultracover. Saved by the rag. The on to building the loading dock. Hmmm, the instructions are really short of decent templates and the dock is a good example.
Since the rail side loading dock seems to be rather narrow, I might as well change it. 12 feet wide seems a better option. The original kit framing showed a simple 8x8 structure covered with 2x10s. Um no. My engineering and construction background OCD kicked in and nixed it. So lets go the the stash of scale lumber. Well nerts. I'm short a bunch of sizes. Hmm. Okay, lets use what's included and just add a 2x12 band board to the outside. That means I need to ensure enough decking overhang to account for the band board install. It'll at least give the impression of something beefier that a 2x8 supports. Ohhhh, I need to mixed some AI. Never saw a need to use it before, but what the hey. Kits wood is 12" long and I had an old plastic kitchen utensil tray that's ljust long enough. Woo hoo; I be staining. Now to break into by Camino Lumber stash. Camino - yep I'm that old. Humm, It's 16 inches long. So much for my tray. I'll just brush it on. Interesting stuff Camino, it resists taking a stain. Got some cool back blotches though. So here, I have decking on and adding the band board. And how the track-side dock a side dock will come together.
I do need to apologize for missing some construction steps as I just found out that my normally reliable Canon PowerShot SD1100 has decided that some photos need to .AVI files instead of .jpg.
Interesting build, I'll be following.
Now it was time to add the 8x8 support posts. Break out the Shay Wood Miter. Hmmm, It really doesn't like to make a vertical cut anymore. Everything is tight, but no time to futz with it, so breakout the ancient NWSL Chopper. Load a new blade and had another Vert da ferk. Why isn't it going into the little metal slot in the base. That blade is crooked as well. Okay, now I got to trouble shoot it. Um, um, the razor blade guard (?), you know that part that makes it a single edge blade? It doesn't fit in the milled slot in the handle causing the blade to be angled. So a new 100 count box of blades won't fit. :o Go to tool box and break out an ancient box of blades. And, they fit! Woo hoo, back in business.
This kit has "stone" thresholds for doors and windows and the dock surface has to be level with the threshold. Meaning that notches need to be made where the two meet. Really? It would have made my life easier to cast the walls with the door thresholds even with the brick. Oh well several decades too late for that compliant. I figured out what the post heights need to be to just come close to being even with those pesky thresholds. I set the chopper to work and started to produce a bunch of 0.583" long support posts. Then that sinking feeling hit when one can just feel the metal gauge stop move. Yeppers, all cuts were off. Thankfully long. So now to reset the gauge stop and crank down on hold-down, and recut. This time I checked each cut with a POS caliper as a go-no check and I'm back in business.
I glued the track and side docks together and set them in the squaring jig to glue the posts on. I used an old (maybe ancient) 30-60-90 square to align the bottom of the posts. And while I had every thing set up, might as well add the backside bracing. I decided to use the kits 2x6s for the bracing. These really are for the roof rafters (more on these in a bit), but as no bracing was contemplated for this kit, I need something that I had on hand. Since I added the band board, one needs to add a piece, or pieces of 1x material to hold up the free end of the posts. Otherwise they could sag down, or out when placed upright. And the need to be flat since there isn't a lot o weight involved. As with most stick built kits, stick sizes were color coded. But someone got heavy handed with the blue paint.
At this point, I would like to give a huge round of THANKS to whomever decided to use mechanical pencil ends attached to the small dispenser for glue application. Way to go. Makes my gluing efforts an absolute breeze.
That pretty much covers what's been done up to this point. I had planned on doing an interior, but the cast-in resin doors are really thin and most likely brittle as all get out. Okay, plan B, I'll just finish and light the "office" portion. I had already switched out the roof cardboard for 0.60" plastic with interior trusses to hold its shape so it can be removed. Since it is surrounded by docks on all sides, the building should be able to be easily removed or maybe just the roof being removable to access the interior.
But then look at the provided templates. The track side roof is a problem. Notice the roof post supports (4x4s) and a single 2x10 to support the roof. 4x4's okay, but a single 2x10 laid flat. Um. no. Then also notice that the roof card is to be scored as shown and it sits on the 2x10. Huh? The template is to be glued to the under side as there dashed lines where the rafters are to be added. So . . . basically just add rafter tails with no rafter for the underside if the roof? ??? OCD kicked in again. The way all of this is to go together, no practical physical support for a removable roof, especially since I switched out for the cardboard, makes a removable roof just about gone with the wind.
But this is for another day. I have been putting off paining the building. Time to put on my big boy pants and have at it. This should be fun :-\ .
Oh, I guess I should show the scene(s) of the crime. I do have a 30"x60" auditors table about 15 feet behind my desk that is basically clear. The plan is that this will be the holding table to keep stuff waiting for glue/paint to dry, so I can work on other builds. Please note the "vintage" Scott Cut-rite wax paper that I used for this build. And yes, it has a yellow tinge. People are selling these boxes on that auction site. Geez.
Here are some pictures of the one I did a while back. Hope it helps.
Great looking structure Bob.....I'll be watching. :)
A very nicely done build.
Off to a good start Bob, the wood staining looks great.
Quote from: bob the builder on January 22, 2019, 07:06:23 AM
Here are some pictures of the one I did a while back. Hope it helps.
Yes, it does. If I can get mine to look just half as good, I'll be happy.
I really like the way your brick work turned out.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 22, 2019, 09:56:33 AM
Off to a good start Bob, the wood staining looks great.
The funny thing is that I thought it needed a bit more wood color. Then I got l looking at my boat dock wood decking. It's been installed for close to 30 years and it too, has a silver sheen. So I'm good.
Jeez, I love this place!
But, I'm running out of bookmarks.
Decided I needed to delve into the deep waters and paint the building. I picked what I thought would be a good red brick color and boy did that suck. Waaay too red. I used a sponge to apply it and wasn't real concerned about getting ever nook an cranny filled, so it really is ugly looking. But then doing the mortar wash should tone it down, right. Nope just made it more stark looking. So decided, just to tone it down with Nutmeg craft paint. Still didn't look good, but I'm in too deep now. One nice thing about adding a loading dock is that it gives me the bottom wall section to be a test bed. A light mortar wash was applied and it's okay, but still not thrilled how it came out. I did a Nutmeg wash on an unprimed wall piece (left bottom area) and I really liked the light brown color. Maybe for another project.
the third photo looks good to me,,,,,, have you tried lightly sponging some brown oxide color? you could then go back and sponge on a lighter red brick color over that......
The third photo looks good , assuming you're going to paint the windows and doors and sills , they wouldn't have red showing through them.
I also like the third one.
I do plan on painting all the trim; it's on today's schedule. It was amazing just how sloppy I was using the sponge. And thanks for the feedback.
Well snerts.
One of the nice things on having extra wall sections is being able to test paint techniques. So, 00000 or 000 for the trim? Okay, 00000 it is time to start on the actual building. Note to self: Clean up your desk. Too late. :'( A flying elbow sent it to the concrete and turned back into kit form. On the other hand, it made it a lot easier to paint all the wood trim that would have been a real pain if it had been together. A couple of quick strokes of a PBL brass scratch brush (from their weathering brush outfit) removed errant red paint and the white paint went on. All I need to do is figure out weathering the white a bit. In the photo below, I decided to use a couple of Silverton attic windows for the round windows. Almost a straight drop in.
I really need to find a better adhesive for this resin as obviously, epoxy doesn't hold that well.
Looking much better. I use CA for resin.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 26, 2019, 06:27:29 PM
Looking much better. I use CA for resin.
I used medium gel CA for the initial tack along all four corners, then the next day reinforced them using epoxy. Still didn't hold. I might try to find some JB Weld for glass to see if it would be better. Or I could just be more careful.
I've used epoxy for resin kits with great success, I wonder if your epoxy is old or maybe you got a bad mix.
One trick I've used is similar to OldGuy's: Use something like Walthers Goo to position the walls, and when the Goo is set up, then apply CA to lock the joint. I've done that on resin cars, but not on resin structures. I've also used wood (1/4") bracing at the corners on old Magnuson resin kits, in part to make sure they don't re-warp. That was secured using epoxy.
dave
When I was planning on building this kit, I wanted to replace the windows. Well, really how these were built. Basically, glue on the clear acetate to the inside walls, then add the wood mullions. I got several Rusty Stumps industrial window sheets. If my maths were correct, should be easy-peasy. I was half right. But the more I looked at Rusty Stump windows, the mor I didn't want to cut them up for this project. S, back to following the kit instructions. First, I had to remove the interior paint. An end of a metal ruler worked fairly well, but the PBL scratcher got rid of any paint remnants. A little Weld Bond and weights got the job done.
As I mentioned before, I decided to use Grant Line Silverton Depot attic windows for the round windows. First step was to get out the dividers and find the radius of the opening for the acetate. I wasn't worried about poking a hole in in the clear material as it would be hidden by the mullions. I found that rotating the acetate was the easiest method getting my circle. After a few turns, I had enough of an mark to cut out the window using small curved scissors. To get th small round bit into the window, I used a small sucker that worked okay. Squeeze the barrel, place the cup over the part and move quickly. As long as one keeps it sucking, it'll hold; otherwise the part falls off. I found a small sculpting tool to apply the adhesive.
As previously mentioned, I painted the doors and windows white, following the prototype practice. The loading white was way too stark and I couldn't find a decent way to tone them down. Since the dray side won't be seen. I did give some experimental material to work with. I don't have a lot of paint options, so what to do, what to do. Then the mail lady delivered a package and inside were my first batch of Pan Pastels. Hmmm . . . Played around with some, but then decided to heck with it and went with a dark oxide red. Looks like stained wood. So I redid all the doors and am calling it good. For now. I did play around with some light gray on a spare wall piece and found my new brick mortar color. Rub it in and remove the surface material with a damp, not wet, flat brush and voila. I'm sold. Sorry no photo of this process. Probably old hat for most on here, but, it's all new to me.
I guess there was a reason for the kit to hit the floor as it sure made adding the window mullions a heck of a lot easier. I did do a quick A&I was followed by a wipe of white. These pieces are tiny. I have had splinters bigger than these suckers. First off, I needed a quick way to keep the mullions horizontal and vertical. Taped a straight edge to the mat, and eye balled where the center line fell. I found cutting the mullions using a flush cut sprue cutter worked the best. Again a quick eye-ball cut and sanding did the trick. Some WeldBond applied with a pointy tool seems to keep everything in place. I found one horizontal piece followed by two vertical pieces worked the best to keep every thing from moving.
The UPS guy delivered my Mt Albert wood order. Seven days from placing my order to delivery. Not too shabby. And oh, you can save a lot by ordering strip wood in bulk.
Looking good, nice brickwork.
They look great in place, but they look like a real pain to do.
This was my first kit that I made when I started to get into lighting. I remember having to use rectangular brass tubing epoxied to the inside of the walls to get and keep them straight. I made the clerestory out of Tichy windows because the big lump of clear resin that they used in the kit was getting a bit yellow.
Looking good Bob!
-slim
Bob,
Windows look good, as do the walls.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 30, 2019, 01:51:37 PM
Bob,
Windows look good, as do the walls.
Thanks. Sometimes bad decisions have unexpected good outcomes, if one recognizes the error and make decent corrections.
Finally managed to get the four walls back together. Once all that had dried, it was about getting the frieze boards on and waiting for glue to dry. I had to realize that my idea of replacing the cardboard roof with plastic just wasn't going to work out. So, Got the cardboard pieces, cut out the roofing template and get it glued on. More waiting for glue to dry. Then it a matter of making sure the roof cards were square and trim it. But then on the template were the lines for the rafters that go underneath the cards. Soooo, break out the drafting triangles. I used a piece of 8x16 as a guide for spacing and drew the new locating lines. Next up was my first use of transfer tape and installing the rolled roofing. Included with the kit was a piece of 220 grit aluminum oxide sand paper for the roofing. I must say, I really like the look of this stuff. Anyway, rolled roofing comes in 3 wide rolls 33 feet long. So first step is to cut the strips into 3 foot widths and then into 33 foot long pieces. According to standard practice, the end of each strip should be facing down wind. In my neck of the woods, the prevailing wind is from the NW, so considering the orientation of the building, it was laid down accordingly. Strangely enough, the material went right up to the roof peak. I have yet to add the roof cap material and the roof is just sitting loose on the building. Finishing the roof and it supports is a bit complicated. Glue the roof on, add the rafters on the dray side, mount he track side loading dock, build the supports, cut the rafters for that side, then glue down the track side roof.
Very nice modeling Bob.
With the dray side roof glued on I can move on to adding the rafters. Cutting the building side rafter ends was fairly easy: 60 degrees. But trying to figure out how long was another matter. I thought I had it figured out and set up a stop on the chopper. Only 30 of them buggers. Well, as it turns out, I was wrong. In my haste to get the roof finished and installed, I cut off too much of the overhang and if I wanted to install the gutter, well there was way too much overhang. Soooo, I need to trim all the rafter tails. I made up a parallel jig to allow me to trim off just enough to install some fascia and then install the gutter so that it would look like it would actually catch water.
Now that the dray side rafters have dried over night, it was time to make and ad the roof supports. Th instructions have you use some scrap 2x8 material and fabricate some supports out of scrap 8x8. This seemed to be a bit off over kill, but I found that I didn't have any wood 4x4 material, so I'll go with the the kit instructions. I added a 2x12 to the rafters to give something for the supports to support. Now I get to turn my attention to the rail side roof. The instructions have the roof supports place in between ti dock supports. Not good building practice. So I moved them to be above the 4x4 dock supports. So I used my faithful triangle and the stop from the chopper to get everything aligned. The instructions have you support the roof card by, again, adding a 2x12 on top of the supports and then add rafter tails for looks. Nope. I formed a lap joint between the support uprights and the 2x12 which is oriented vertically. This required the angled support pieces to have a lap joints as well. I forgot the camera and didn't photos of this process. After everything had dried, I found the support assembly was way too flimsy, so I added a 2x10 which made it far stronger. I'll trim any excess later.
Now that the set up work has been one on the track side roof, I can finally glue (I used Weldbond glue) that section of the roof on. I just added weights on the inside and let gravity keep it in place. I did a quick install to check on heights and eyeballed the angle needed for the roof rafters. I let the ends run wild and used flush cut sprue cutters, and using the first cut piece as a guide, made the same angle cut for the remaining 29 rafters. Those are now glued on and drying.
Up next gluing the track side platform to the building and installing the track side roof supports.
Great progress Bob , and thanks for the idea of using the magnet tray differently.
Very nice Bob.
Managed to get some more work done. First up was gluing the L-shaped loading docks to the building. Again, the squaring jig came in handy to keep everything tight during drying. Then it was installing the rail side supports. One of my past customers was a granite cutting and finishing company. One of the by-products was a lot of polished granite scraps. I managed to secure a bunch of real nice rectangular pieces, strips, sample discs, and some generally busted up pieces that can be used in a lot of different scenarios. Below, I used on of the strip pieces to weigh down the dock section and guide the dock roof supports to be not only vertical but also in alignment. Next up was readying the dray side dock for attachment. But one has to allow for the downspout to go be installed next to the building. So two notches need to be made. Out came the micro saw and a mini-chisel. Made short work in such a delicate area. Then it was on to cutting off the extra rafter tails in the track side roof. Finally came up with a 6" ruler (Frisco) and a scrap piece of 2x12 to give the sprue cutter a flat and even surface to do its job.
And after this build, I really, really need to clean-up and better organize my work space.
Bob,
Looks better every time I check the thread. Really enjoying following along.
Now it is time to tackle the small walkway from the side door that will lead to the track side dock. For some reason, this door is about a scale 8" lower than the dock. Whereas the dock levels are even with the dock thresholds, this area needs to be located below the threshold. After the frame was built, it is a matter of using a couple pieces of scrap 2 by material to determine the height needed for the support posts. Once this has been determined, it was back to the magnetic jig. Once the test support was placed, it is just a matter of securing the triangle to establish the ground level and cut and glue the remaining supports. And yes, I noticed that somehow I misjudged the walkway depth. This was fixed by using the True Sander.
Now that the walkway was ready, it was time to tackle making the needed steps. Plan A - use a pre-made stringer from A-West and a 2x12. That was a complete disaster as the wood kept splitting. Okay, plan B. Use some scrap wood squares and draw the needed riser and tread dimensions. I used my old PFM HO scale vernier caliper to get as accurate measurements as possible. The vernier scale allows measurements to 1/4". As shown below, it is set to 7", my riser height. I wound up having to transfer the caliper dimensions to a set of dividers, then move the triangle to set the horizontal or vertical dimensions, then cut the wood. That was also a disaster. Plan C - Do the same thing as B, but in plastic and make a jig since I'm going to nee three stringers. I marked the scribe line in pencil, so I could see where the scribed lines were. Another disaster. The .040" plastic split as well.
Okay, I still need stairs with an 10" tread and 7" rise. So what do I have that I could use that the railroad would have plenty on hand. Hmmm - how about old railroad ties? Laid on end? These may look a bit clunky, but it works. I'll let everything set and see what it looks like tomorrow.
As you can tell I have fallen in hobby-love with my old magnetic jig. It's not the Micro Mart version, but the original one; the makers name is stamped in it. I did check the 90º corner and it is dead nuts on. I did get some magnetic cabinet door latches which hold even better that the supplied magnets and form a square corner where ever I need one along either side.
Speaking of square - Over the years I have collected over a dozen triangles from 3" metal to over 18" plastic ones. From Dietzgen to Post to Sears; 45º and 30/60/90 versions. And just recently I have I checked to see if they all truly had a 90º angle. Come to find out that I had two that didn't. One plastic and one metal. These are now marked as bad and will be used only for straight line needs. Interesting enough, none of the 45s or the 30/60 angles were off. Just the 90s.
Bob...........
Thank you for your remarks of your last post on this thread.
We spend too much time depending on measurement devices that are easily checked for accuracy.
Take the square that you have on your work bench. Draw a line that represents 90 degrees. Then flip it over and see if it matches from the other side.
This sounds like an over simplification ............. but try it ! ! !
Bob is right .......... there are a lot of measurement scales and rules that are just not accurate.
To go on............. Bob.......... you use a term that is only reserved for true machinists.
I did check the 90º corner and it is dead nuts on.
Only a true machinist uses the term............ dead nuts ! ! ! !
I have NEVER heard this term anywhere else.
Thank you my friend for being part of the fraternity ! ! !
see ya............... yet another
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on February 22, 2019, 02:52:45 AM
Bob...........
Thank you for your remarks of your last post on this thread.
We spend too much time depending on measurement devices that are easily checked for accuracy.
Take the square that you have on your work bench. Draw a line that represents 90 degrees. Then flip it over and see if it matches from the other side.
This sounds like an over simplification ............. but try it ! ! !
Bob is right .......... there are a lot of measurement scales and rules that are just not accurate.
To go on............. Bob.......... you use a term that is only reserved for true machinists.
I did check the 90º corner and it is dead nuts on.
Only a true machinist uses the term............ dead nuts ! ! ! !
I have NEVER heard this term anywhere else.
Thank you my friend for being part of the fraternity ! ! !
see ya............... yet another
Bob
You got me sailing under a false flag. I was an Electricians Mate First Class in the Navy and as such worked a lot with the Machinist Mates in the engine rooms. That's where I picked it up and it just stuck with me over the years.
My first foray using Pan Pastels on large surfaces. The roof isn't as green as it looks. I got the streaking by using the foam block that came with the pastel kits. It removed the some of the ochre laid over the gray.
I added the small deck and stairs leading to it. That left me with a rather large step up to the loading dock. To find the height, I used the depth gauge part of the caliper and it measured close to 10". Sorry for the out of focus shot.
Another tool rant. When buying these tools, look at the depth rod. It should be ground with the main body. Not cut before assembly. Although one can bottom the depth rod and reset the zero point, if using a dial or digital model and then take the measurement, but one shouldn't have to in the first place.
I made a step by using some left over stair tread and then taking some scrap wood to form a riser. I painted the riser black so it couldn't be seen. Since the main set of stairs are close to 6' wide. I realized I need a handrail. I wanted t attach it to the building, but the window lintel was in the way. I found some thin, but stiff wire and formed a center handrail, which is more appropriate anyway. I found the center of the deck, drilled an .025" hole on the top of the deck and into bottom step. A quick coat of metallic sterling paint and instant galvanized handrail.
It wasn't until after I took a photo did I realize that my used railroad tie step supports looks more like concrete than wood. I need to fix that tomorrow. Here's what's done so far and 95% done.
Looking great Bob , how did you do the roof with Panpastels , just wipe it on with that piece of foam? Does it come off very easily , do you have to fixate it?
Quote from: Janbouli on February 24, 2019, 06:23:19 PM
Looking great Bob , how did you do the roof with Panpastels , just wipe it on with that piece of foam? Does it come off very easily , do you have to fixate it?
What I did was first brushed on some gray pastel (light gray I think) over the entire roof. Then I went over that with the ochre, but it looked way to yellow. In the kits of pan pastels there was a container of several sponges (?) one which looked like an eraser. Kinda like these - https://www.dickblick.com/products/panpastel-sofft-tools/
I went to remove the ochre and it started to streak. Just start at the top and gently wipe down. Stop when it appeals to you. Since the roof is 220 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper, one is wiping off the surface leaving most of what is next to the grit.
I need to try a light brown over a similar material just to see if it streaks the same way.
I looked at Google maps for the west bottoms of KCMO and found some old buildings that had similar roofing, and most look white to light gray with hardly and weathering, even though the roofs are decades old. Look around 10th to 13th along Union and 11th & Hickory, to see what I mean.
Nice modeling Bob.
Bob,
Outstanding modeling! The wood dock boards are so well done, nice variations but not overdone. Likewise, the roofing looks great, I think the pan pastels used on the sandpaper really worked well. Steps came out great, and the mortar really stands out against the brick. You have done a wonderful job with this kit.
As far as the tool rant... Yikes. I would never have expected such a miscue from NWSL. I watched one of these scale calipers on ebay, but it went for well over $50 and I decided to save my money and stay with my old caliper and a scale conversion chart. Now, I'm really glad I did.
Thanks Bob , answered all my questions , going to try this out .
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 25, 2019, 11:34:23 AM
Bob,
Outstanding modeling! The wood dock boards are so well done, nice variations but not overdone. Likewise, the roofing looks great, I think the pan pastels used on the sandpaper really worked well. Steps came out great, and the mortar really stands out against the brick. You have done a wonderful job with this kit.
As far as the tool rant... Yikes. I would never have expected such a miscue from NWSL. I watched one of these scale calipers on ebay, but it went for well over $50 and I decided to save my money and stay with my old caliper and a scale conversion chart. Now, I'm really glad I did.
Thanks for the praise. Having not built a kit close to 3 decades, it's nice getting back to the bench.
I might have mislead you a bit. My PFM HO scale calipers are accurate as all get out (I'll keep off the machinist's inside lingo for awhile). They are by Mitutoyo, so no quality issues there. The photo that I showed with the poor depth rod was a digital caliper that I bought at a train show. I failed to really look at them closely.
I use cheap makeup wedge-shaped sponges for applying Pan Pastels. They work great, and they're MUCH cheaper than the Pan Pastel applicators. It's also worth getting the pointy-tipped makeup applicators, those are good for working Pan Pastels into a corner.
dave
Bob,
For not building anything in 30 years you've done a great job with the old Magnuson kit.
Well done for sure.
Tom ;D