I had tried to do a thread on building the jigs to make these signals. But things happened beyond my control. Microsoft did an upgrade to my OS, when the upgrade was finished, it took out my OS completely. When they replaced my OS, it wiped my hard drive of all files and programs. Once I had gotten everything back together, I tried to come back into the old thread and begin again. It was an impossible task. Too many changes had been made to the jigs and I was not able to repair the old thread. I had the moderator completely remove it.
So, I begin again.
During the downtime, I had completed the jigs and have built 24 signals with them. I was able to build two styles. Single head mainline and interlocking two headed signals.
With minor changes, I will be able to build at least two more styles with the same jig.
The soldering iron was too hot for such small work. It was scorching the jig as you will see, and melting previous joints. To stop this, I built a 12V 2amp resistance soldering unit. Works perfect for this light job.
Here are some pics of signals built with the jigs and the new soldering unit.
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I am starting this new thread at work. So, this is just about it until my weekend arrives. Which is Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. So just around the corner.
I will start with the jig on Tuesday.
Dave
Seattle
To begin, we first have to build all the jigs. These are all mounted on one piece of 3/8" x 6" x 12" piece of birch plywood.
Before we go any further, here is a pic of all the tools used and a materials list.
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Tools Used
Dremel
Assorted drill bits and cutters
Soldering iron and solder, also paste solder not in pic.
Razor saw and miter box
Digital caliper
Steel rule
Assorted jeweler files
Tweezers
Small side cutter
Sizzors
Razor blades
Making a small edit here in tools:
The soldering iron produces way too much heat. Especially with something this small. So, I built a 12V. 2amp resistance soldering unit. Absolutely perfect.
I will show this later in the thread.
Materials: for jig and signals
3/8" x 6" x 12" birch ply
1/32" birch ply
3/16" x 3/16" x 24" strip wood (an option here is a solid piece of wood. I will bring this up in the next post.)
3/16" x 5/16" x 24" strip wood
1/16" x 1/16" x 12" strip wood
5/64" x 3/64" x 12" strip wood
1/32" x 3/32" x 12" strip wood
1/16" o.d. brass tubing
3/32" square brass tubing
1/8" o.d. aluminum tubing
3/32" o.d. aluminum tubing
1/16" o.d. aluminum tubing
.010 mm x 1/4" brass bar stock
3/64" x 1/4" strip plastruct (this is just what I have on hand to use as a spacer. It's purpose will be seen later in the thread.)
For the LED's and wire I will be using in the signals:
1.8mm bi-color LED's
#35 enamaled magnet wire
Now to the jigs:
First measure in 15/16" from one long side and make a mark. Then measure up from the short side 3 7/8" make another mark. Then measuring in from the same long side measure in again at the 3 7/8" mark, 15/16" and make another mark. Now connect the two marks with a line.
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Now, measure in from the short side of the ply, 3/16" then using a square, line this mark across the long line. This is where the first piece of the jig is to be placed.
Cut three pieces of the 3/16" x 3/16" stock, 11/32" in length. Measure at least one of them for C/L. Then using CA, glue them together. Then glue them onto the ply at this first line, making sure you line up the C/L with the main line on the ply. A picture tells a thousand words.
Place the third piece in front of these first two onto the base, keeping them all aligned. Well, I can't seem to find that pic. But onward and upward. It will show up in later pics and will show location.
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Next, cut another piece of 3/16" x 3/16" stock 5/8" in length. Then cut two pieces of 1/16" x 1/16" stock 3/8" in length. Again finding dead center on the 3/8" piece, glue the two small pieces to this. There will be a 1/16" gap between the two small pieces. This will be for the mast tube to rest on and between.
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Location on jig.
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From this point forward, I am going to show the actual finished jig to demonstrate positioning and making of the various parts. Many pics were lost.
Back in a bit.
Dave
Nice looking signals Dave.....I'll be looking in. :)
I'll be following.
Thank you Gregory. Much appreciated sir.
Ok, time to get back to it.
Here is a pic of the jig in part. It is a bit on the rough side, but it has been used to build a now count of 24 signals. As I stated earlier, the soldering iron is just to hot and it has scorched the jig. It has not however, altered the jigs accuracy in construction. To stop this, I also mentioned that I had built a 12V 2A resistance soldering station. It does a marvelous job and no more scorching.
The piece my pointer file is at, is that third piece I mentioned above. A little out of order here, but if there are any questions about anything here, please do not hesitate to ask.
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The next piece to apply to the jig, is the base stop.
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Cut a piece from the 1/8" x 3/16" stock 3/8" in length. Always find dead center on all these pieces. (To keep from repeating myself, all this woodwork is fastened to the base with CA.)
This piece is glued exactly 5/64" from the piece before.
Next is the number board platform.
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Cut this from the 3/16" square stock 11/32" in length. Glue it onto the ply base oriented as shown exactly 1/2' up from the stop piece.
Now it is time to build the main jig head.
When you build this: DO NOT GLUE TO THE PLYWOOD BASE YET.
The pics following this one, shows me having glued it down. But we do learn from our mistakes...I think.
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Still using the 3/16" stock. Cut 2 pieces 1 3/16" in length. Find C/L on both.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-050219095239.jpeg&hash=22ebbb6e70119646871efc209565d453a405031c)
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Once this is finished, 8 more pieces of 3/16" stock must be cut to a length of 9/16" each. I know, the pic shows only four. But... Begin by gluing these to the bottom two pieces. Keeping the outer edges flush with the bottom pieces. Stacking as you go. Keep everything flush front, back and outside edges. You can use a piece of 1/16" brass tube to keep the slot between them true.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-050219095657-374221309.jpeg&hash=75e0e93f890e544021d2aaa890df3df02b6a6fd8)
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Ok, that's the six pics I am allowed per posting. Will return shortly.
Thanks for the drop in PRR. Your orwellian statement was rather disconcerting ....LOLOLOL just kidding. :D
Dave
Ok, back to it. A little notation here I should have made earlier... Once the jig is completed and you are ready to build signals with it, I highly recommend using a resistance soldering unit. I know only too well how expensive these are, so I will also show how to build a very inexpensive unit. It is low voltage and amperage and very inexpensive to build. It is perfect for building something this small.
Picking up where I left off. Just continue gluing the 8 pieces together.
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Till you get to here.
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Now we have to cut a slot on what will be the front face of the head. Sorry they are a little blurry. But, I think it will not hinder showing what is going to be done.
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Ok, that is five pics. To go to the next stage, I am going to post again without breaking it.
Dave
Seattle
Those slots are for two pieces of aluminum tubing. These are to lock the mast in place as you assemble the signal. You well see this more clearly in later posts.
Make your first cut exactly 1/16" inch above the top edge of the bottom piece. Go no deeper than 1/32"
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Make the second cut on the joint between the bottom piece and the cut you just made. Again, no deeper than 1/32".
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Gently pry this piece out. Now using a jewellers file, keeping it square in the slots, file this slot down to a depth of 3/64".
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Now cut two pieces of 1/16" aluminum tubing 9/16" in length. Place them in the slots. These should look as the pic shows in the slots. That outside measurement still showing outside the slots is 1/32". The exact measurement of the tube wall.
Yes I nicked mine as you can see, but it does not go all the way down and it is still ok. Not pretty, but it will work just fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-050219114121-374291625.jpeg&hash=877f5c69c15f487af7b63757e33719b2c7b0e65e)
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These tubing pieces are glued in using CA of course. Make sure they are well seated. Accuracy is important here.
Well shucks, there is one more pic. But again, I have reached my limit per posting.
Dave
Seattle
Here is the pic that was left over from the last post. It is just a pic of the opposite end.
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Now you can permanently glue the head jig to the base. The measurements for it's location are 1 25/64" from the rear centering piece. Keep this piece very square to the center line.
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Once that is done, we will add the platform centering tabs on either side of the mast slot.
This is where I used the plastruct as a guide to locating the piece of wood on either side of the slot.
This piece of 1/4" wide by 1/8" thick. Cut a piece 11/16" long. Make sure it is square on one end at least. This is the end that will rest on the face of the ply base. This will keep everything square.
Measure the center line which is 1/8". place this piece against the baskside of the main head. Make sure it is centered. This is very critical.
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Cut 2 pieces of 3/64" stripwood, 9/16" in length. Glue these to the wooden face of the main head. Do not glue the plastic nor the strips to the plastic. This how it should look. Once done, you can remove the plastic piece. I have used a mast with a platform in place to show how it works.
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Now we will build the ladder support guide. This piece is what holds the ladder at proper orientation for soldering to the platform bottom.
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You will notice that their is a bottom slot is on both ends. You can just see the other end.
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Dave
Seattle
Dave....
This is really cool.
Thanx
Bob
Great how to Dave.
Thank you Bob and the other Bob too. Also, thanks PRR. Is it Curt? Your comments are greatly appreciated.
Dave
Seattle
Dave, yes I go by Curt in real life. :)
Ok, let's get to building this little gem.
We will first cut all the parts needed.
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The two upper pieces are made with 3/4" x 9/32" x 1/16" strip wood.
The two lower pieces are made with 1 1/8"x 9/32" x 1/16" strip wood.
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This is the top made with a piece of 3/4" x 9/32" x 1/16" strip wood.
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These two pieces are the end caps. Made with 5/16" x 3/16" x 1/8" strip wood.
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These two pieces are the side braces. Made with 3/4" x 3/32" x 3/64" strip wood.
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The two pieces on the top, are the ladder alignment guides.
These two pieces are 3/4" x 3/32" x 3/64" strip wood.
Dave
Seattle
To begin construction, we first glue the side pieces together.
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Then we add the top piece. Keep everything square. This piece is glued to the top edge of the side piece.
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Then we add the inner braces.
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Then we place the other side piece.
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Next glue on the two alignment strips. Keep these flush with the top outer edges.
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Next we add the side braces.
Dave
Seattle
Then, as you see, the two side braces. These are glued flush with the top of the ladder guides. You will notice there is a space at the bottom edge on both sides of the ladder guide. This is necessary. It's purpose with be revealed shortly.
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Now to make the slots in the bottom of this piece. This is done so when placed in the jig, it sits over the signal mast.
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File this to a depth of 3/32" on both end caps.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-050219184408-37465621.jpeg&hash=b2d4b8aa258a0cee280c4d24f0efcd59007684fc)
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Sorry about the blurry pics.
Next I will show how it mounts in the jig. But I think, I am calling a day. Thanks for looking in everybody.
Dave
Seattle
Mounting the ladder alignment piece to the main jig. Mounting may be the wrong word to use here, as this piece is removable. It is not glued to the jig.
The rails that I am indicating are actually, for alignment and placement.
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These pieces are required to place the ladder channel in it's proper place.
2 pieces of strip wood 1/8" x 1/16" x 1 5/32" length.
1 piece of plastruct flat stock 39/64" x 1/4" x 1/32".
1 piece strip wood 1 9/16" x 1/8" x 1/64"
and of course, the ladder placement jig.
To begin with, first place the plastruct piece in the platform alignment channel.
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Then glue the first piece in place. To locate it, it is exactly 9/16" in from the outside edge of the ply base.
Once you have this glued down, place the alignment piece up against it. If you have aligned everything correctly, it will fit right over the number board piece. Make sure it is butted up against the ring stop as you see in the picture.
Then using either the strip wood or the ladder stock. Make sure they align just as you see in the pics.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-060219145722-374731896.jpeg&hash=fb8958aeb28788e2001198d90c871d25d4213449)
If they do, then you are ready to glue the other guide piece on the opposite side of the ladder alignment jig.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-060219154914-374742249.jpeg&hash=d3b18ece5acac47732b383ae2970e0231be2486e)
I keep trying to post pic of the ladder stock, but it won't let me. I realized I have already posted six pics. I was really getting into it! So, I have to start another reply.
Dave
Seattle
Here is the pic using the ladder stock. If you want, you could also use a strip of brass stock measuring 1/8" x 1/16" x 1 3/16" in length.
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Here are a few pics showing a complete signal in the jig, ready to be soldered together. Just a teaser. Just to let you see there is a purpose to all this madness. But, this journey isn't over yet.
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Little blurry...sorry. Should wear my glasses when using the camera.
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The handrails need a little shortening.
That's it for now. Now I have domestic chores that need to be done.
Dave
Seattle
We are getting quite deep into this at this point. But, still a way to go before we can use all this to make the actual signals. If there are any questions up to this point, please do not hesitate to ask. I will plead the 5th...NAH!
All this has been built straight out of my head. Build as I go.
I am going to take a slight detour here, away from this part of the build, and go to a different part. Breaks up the monotony.
Next up is the mast drilling jig. This piece is all brass.
This is the little jewell.
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To build this we need the following:
3/32" square brass tubing
1/16" round brass tubing
1/16" aluminum tubing
0.15 brass shim stock (cut a 1/4"" strip from this.
First cut a piece of the shim stock to a length of 1/2". Then measure up from one end 1/4" and make a sharp 90 degree bend. You will notice that mine ain't. Had to remake.
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Cut another piece to a length of 5"16"
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-060219201241-374831733.jpeg&hash=72618babb18af0710b3e93943f3f339c7a54cc40)
Cut a piece of the round brass 1/16" tubing, to length of 1/4".
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Last piece to cut is the piece of square brass tubing to a length of 1/34".
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Now on to assembly.
First take the square tubing and Drill a 1/16" hole in the one side only, at 3/8" from one end. Make sure you do a little center punch here, or that 1/16" bit will try to walk all over the place. Go into the end you just drilled with a 1/16" drill bit. This is to clean out any burrs.
Next, you will place the 90 degree brass piece on the end with the hole and solder to the square tubing. Make sure you keep the piece up very tight aginst the end. This becomes the mast stop. Then solder the other piece about 1/4" on the opposite end.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-070219080447-37494933.jpeg&hash=64f23f861e5de73ca57456312e17be0d3372d579)
Ok, just noticed that makes 6 pics. Again have to go out and start all over.
Dave
Seattle
Now to take up where I left off. Next we will solder the 1/4" piece of 1/16" tubing into place. To do this, slide the aluminum tubing all the way into the square tube to the stop. This stops any solder from mucking up the inside. Place the small piece of tubing into the hole and solder it into place. Keep this tube square. Once this is done, remove the aluminum tube and "voila", you mast jig is done.
To use this little indispensable little gem, you will slide a mast piece into the jig all the way to the way to the stop. I cut my masts at a length of 2 7/8". This is my choice. If you want yours longer, that works too.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-070219080448-37498963.jpeg&hash=6222c1107993b42d093cf4e17d2f95d359a37fcd)
Hold the tubing in place and drill your 1/32" hole. Drill it in one side of the mast only.
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Remove the mast piece and there it is. A nice neat hole! Try drilling that without the jig! Nigh on to impossible!
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Next, using a jewellers file, file the hole at a downward angle. This angle will help a whole bunch when pushing the wires down into the mast.
Not trying to insult your intelligence, but, BE VERY CAREFULL HERE. THAT FILE IS SHARP. SLIP AND IT HURTS!!! The voice of experience speaks.
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Once this is done, run your 1/32" bit down the inside of the mast. This will clean up any burrs that are left behind.
You will also want to do the same thing to the bottom end of the mast as from cutting the tube leaves sharp edges inside.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-070219090652-37503680.jpeg&hash=b95d4c199e4dd545497b75d72b7eed37db2fc27f)
Next, just run a piece of 1/32" brass rod up and down the entire length of your mast tube. This is to clean out any residue.
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Ok, that pretty much is the end of this stage of the build.
Next, we will begin with the head jig. This is a very intricate looking piece. But it is not hard to build at all. I am not taking this up today. Probably not until my next weekend.
But here are some pics the piece. Just to give you an idea of what's coming up. I just rebuilt this piece with some new additions. I guess the journey isn't over yet! ;D ;D ;D
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(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F206-070219100251-375061826.jpeg&hash=a0ac293ac7efb59b75934c753d6be055e371e55d)
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I do so hope I have made this thread so far a little more clear than mud. Please, do not hesitate to ask any questions. I am fallible and do make mistakes.
So, until we meet again...next week...
I also am asking. Is there any real interest is this thread? Not many views or comments. I don't want to be taking up space for something no one really wants to see.
Dave
Seattle
I retreated from this thread because of two reasons. 1. There did not seem to be much interest. 2. I needed to redesign the front part of the jig. I wanted to be able to build many different signal variations without building jigs for each style.
Here are the three styles I can now build on the same jig. They are:
1. intermediate
2. crossing interlocking
3. passing siding interlocking
Nice work on the signals.
On RRs using NORAC operating rules (and many of their predecessors), signals with two staggered heads are Automatic Block signals. The second head allows more aspects (Approach Medium, for instance) but they must be staggered to distinguish them from interlocking signals.
Thanks for the input guys.
The layout I am building these signals for, is going to be very large. All the signaling will be fully "Automatic Block Signaling". They will all be "absolute. Passing sidings will have permissive. They will also have manual overrides when it's required. The entire layout will be either run by a dedicated computer or dispatch panel.
The top signal is an intermediate or home signal. All home signals will have a cabinet as it's base. The middle signal is for all rail intersections. The top head is always distant on all four heads. The lower head is for "east, west, north south."
The third signal with staggered heads are "Absolute/permissive." When a train is to take the siding, the upper head will be green and the lower will be yellow. This indicates speed restrictions. Under main line upper will be green lower will be dark. If the upper of course is red and the lower dark, then this indicates the next block is occupied. Green or yellow, green being not restrictive, yellow restrictive. Again, the entire system is "Absolute/restrictive."
The owner and myself are both freelance model railroaders. This is the system that we have agreed upon. It may not be prototypical in the strictest sense. But it will sure be fun to watch it all work.
The entire railroad is to be on a dedicated computer. It can also all be overriden manually or by local panels.
Dave
It passes the test...
Very nice work Dave. Thanks for sharing your techniques on building the signals. Hopefully you'll share some pics when they get mounted on the layout.
Well done Dave..... 8)
Thank you for the drop in and the comments Gregory and Mark. They are much appreciated.
Dave
Seattle
Very interesting and informative. Thanks for taking the time to detail how and why. A lot of work but they sure look worth it. Looking forward to seeing pictures of them on your layout.
Jim D
Nice tutorial. Very impressive build.
Jerry
Very nice work! Thank you for sharing this build with us - it is very informative. I also look forward to seeing pictures of them on your layout.
I'm always impressed by you folks who can scratchbuild stuff like this. Nice work.
Jeff
I have to agree with Jeff, Dennis
Hey Dacs:
Wow!!!! They are really nice.
Karl
Thanks for all the compliments guys. I still have to show in the thread how I put the wires in the tube how I mount the LEDs to the wires how I make the hood and then assemble that part. Then add it to the Mast and The Shield.
Right now the layout is in the planning stages we have the space which is 15ft wide by 32 ft long. We have to finish out the room itself we have to build 2 walls and then finish it inside and out on all four. we have to have it wired for electrical. Plenty of wall outlets and overhead lighting .
I'm planning on taking still shots of progress and videos
We have two issues with our space it has a very low ceiling about 7'. That means all of our lighting will have to be recessed. We plan on having several outlets for electrical around the base of the layout against the wall. And we have to post that are off center. Those will create a problem as far as how the layoffs going to have to be placed in the room.
So far it's a no named Railroad it will be completely freelanced. It will follow prototypical practices but not any particular Railroad
Dave
Seattle
I'm satisfied with the mix of single 4' daylight T-8 fluorescent tubes and 5K LED strips I use for my layout lighting. The part of my attic ceiling where the the lights are mounted is about 76" above the floor. The strips I got are diffused internally, so I don't get the 'hundreds of dots of light reflected off each railhead' problem I've seen with a couple of LED lit layouts. Every layout I've visited using recessed fixtures has a problem with hot spots and dim spots.
The recessed lighting is only going to be over the walk areas. There will be valance lighting that you won't see other than the light pitched onto actual layout. That will be diffused blue white and yellow. All the valance lighting will be on Dim control.
Dave
Seattle