The Modeler's Forum

Hello everyone.

Next up in the build pile is an old Master Creations kit "Blandings and Gallard Cement and Construction Co. Ltd". I'll be heavily modifying the configuration of this kit because I have a specific place I want to put it on the layout and it's pretty narrow. I bought the kit from Ebay and the taller brick building is missing from the kit also.  I've not heard great things about the Master Creations resin walls either so maybe it's for the better.


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The kit originally went for $134.95 in 1988. I think that comes to around $300.00 today.

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I found it difficult to get a feel for how the kit was going to look from this picture. I also Googled the kit and found nothing.

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Instructions are 2 huge front and back newspaper style sheets like older FSM kits. Going over everything it looks like during this time Master Creations was trying to make kits very similar to FSM. The only other large Master Creations kit I built was Minerva Casket and it was very different from this. Minerva Casket was a big box of laser cut parts and confusion.

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Lots of lead and stripwood.
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I built the small stone office a little while ago as a separate kit. I always liked the building but this one will need to be heavily modified to install on the layout. I might cut the top off the peaked walls and use it as a lower floor for a building.
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All the castings are good quality. Not a ridiculous amount of flash either. The windows have a nice wood grain texture. 
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The kit came with enough parts to assemble a few trucks.
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Looks like this brass sheet goes with the lead vehicle parts castings. Looks like maybe 3 trucks total. I'll probably wait to tackle these.
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The kit came with a bag of about 15-20 windows but I'm not sure what they go to. Might be the resin brick building. I'm going to set these aside for now.
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I cleaned all the flash from the castings.
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I separated all the castings into either wood or metal. These are the castings that represent wood. I stuck these to a sheet of paper with double sided tape and I'll prime them Khaki.
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The rest of the castings got blackened with Jax Pewter Black.

In a little while I'm going to flip the castings I primed over and spray the other side so I can start painting them tomorrow.

I like buying older not real popular kits on Ebay when I can get them for cheap enough. I paid $80.00 for this kit and I think it's worth more than that in castings alone. I wish I had all the parts but I'll do my best to turn it into something halfway decent regardless.

-Steve

Looks like a neat one to follow.

I'll be following.

wow, really cool. the box contents really does remind me of FSM kits.......

Steve,

I'll be following along as well.

I have this kit from 1988 and found one on Ebay for Erieman for $114.00 five years ago.

I built the MC Franz Faulk Brewery and found it necessary to use brass square tubing to get the walls straight.

Look forward to seeing what you do with this one.

Tom

BTW, I just checked my kit and the large bag of wood framed windows isn't in my kit. I don't think they go with Blanding and Gallard.

Neat kit Steve.....I'll be looking in on this one.  :)

Hi Steve.

I'll be watching.  I'm a big fan of MC kits and have a few to build myself.  There is a built up version of this kit for sale at Dad's brass trains at the moment with lots of pictures - which may be of some help.

https://www.brasstrains.com/Classic/Product/Detail/101727/HO-1-87-MC-Master-Creations-21-x-22-Diorama-Blandings-Gallard-Amazing-Detail-Must-See

Cheers, Mark.

I'm glad to have everyone following along.

Tom I think I remember reading a thread about Franz Falk or Fanny Schwans and the walls were unbelievably warped. It might've been your thread? On another forum maybe?

Interesting about the windows. I wonder if someone bought another kit from this guys collection and it's missing all the windows but has all the walls I need.

Thanks for posting that link Mark. I saved the pictures and it will help me with how all the walls go together and some of the little sub assemblies. I have a soft spot for Master Creations kits mainly I think because they were new when I started modeling and I couldn't afford them. Plus they really had some crazy designs on a few. I have a lot of respect for them just for trying to do something totally unique. I'm not referring to this kit but more the Minerva Casket, Rutherford B. Hayes Coachworks, Watt Moreland Waxworks era of kits.

I made a little progress on the kit today. Lots of boring prep work for the first couple steps.

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I started prepping the walls for the main shed building. They had me glue a few pieces together side by side.
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I set up all the castings for painting. Anything I can drill a hole in for a toothpick I do. I think that's the best way to paint a castings. It's a must for larger barrels. It's much easier to get straight lines by turning the casting while holding the brush stationary. I didn't spike much more than this because I ran into a problem with the castings breaking.

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The castings in this kit are very brittle. Might be from age maybe something with the alloy but this one broke when I tried to drill it. I broke 3 of them total.

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All the khaki parts are primed and ready to go.
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All the walls are braced and drying. This is one of my least favorite parts of building but it's the most necessary. Especially on old wood siding like this.

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I started painting the castings. I always use Reaper paints for my castings. I try to get some sort of assembly line order with the painting. I usually do as many as I can until my hands stop holding steady then I move on to something else.

Not a super exciting update today but tomorrow I'll try to get some color on the walls and windows. I need to think on the colors I want to use.

Thanks for following along.

-Steve

No problems, Steve.

The three kits you mention are the three of the four I own along with Fanny Schwahns confectionery.  I would also like Muldoon's distillery.  I keep my eyes on ebay for bargains.

Cheers, Mark.

Steve following along I love these kits.
Your off to a good start.

But boy there directions in most of them were real...

Jerry

Jerry the instructions for this kit don't  seem as bad as some of the others. This kit is pretty straightforward though none of that laser cut glue K17 to H35 stuff. That's where it gets confusing on the "zero stripwood" kits. All the worst MC kits to build seem to have "zero stripwood" advertised on the box.

-Steve

Steve,

The walls on Franz Faulk were warped really bad and I used the brass to get them straight. This is probably what you remember.

On Fanny Schwann only the front wall is resin and fairly thick. I built this one some 15 years after the kit came out with no noticeable warp. The rest of the kit is wood siding.

Tom  ;D

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Very cool Tom. That little peaked tower roof is pretty neat. All the windows and doors are pretty unique also. Is the siding clapboard? I can't really tell from the pictures.


-Steve

Quote from: SteveCuster on February 12, 2019, 04:48:24 PM
Very cool Tom. That little peaked tower roof is pretty neat. All the windows and doors are pretty unique also. Is the siding clapboard? I can't really tell from the pictures.


-Steve

Steve,

Thank you. The siding is scribed and came with pre-punched nail holes. This is only one half of the building. I've always thought the structure is just a little out of HO scale but a nice design all the same.

I'll show the second half tomorrow afternoon. I'm charging the camera now.

Tom  ;D

Good morning everyone.


I got a little bit further on the kit yesterday.

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I finished up a few of the castings. I still have a whole bunch to go. I'm trying to work through them as the different stages of the structures are drying. I still have a ton to get through.

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I painted the walls with Apple Barrel Slate Gray. I added some heavy graining to the boards and a few board ends. I tried not to overdo it with the board ends. The walls were first primed with A&I followed by a wash of Mineral Spirits then a coat of the paint before the Mineral Spirits fully dry. After the paint dried for a few minutes I went over all the walls following the direction of the wood panels with a heavy wire brush.
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All the walls are colored.
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I painted the windows with Vintage White craft paint. I waited to color the doors because I wanted to see how the windows looked against the wall color.
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I tried to do a spotty job painting the windows to give a little peeling paint effect. After the white paint dried I washed over the windows with A&I.
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The fitment of the doors really left something to be desired. Big gaps on all sides. This was the worst one. My work around to mask this was to glue the doors to pieces of blacked painted chipboard. Should be less noticeable this way.
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This is the chipboard in place. I glued the doors directly to it.
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The other 2 freight doors are not as bad. I still glued chipboard behind them.
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This door has a large gap under it. This is by design because a wood/tire bumper will sit here. I think it looks kinda weird having 2 doors next to each other with one sitting a few scale feet higher than the other.
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This door was designed very strangely. The instructions call for framed out the opening with scale 6x6s and setting the door against the back. Following that direction the hinges and door knob would be covered by the framing. I instead chose to glue the door directly in the opening and I'll frame it out with 2x4s on the outside.
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I felt like this looked better.
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I added the acetate for the windows, dirtied it with some chalks and added some blinds.
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I started gluing the walls together. I normally would detail them a bit more before doing this but I really wanted to get a feel for how the building sits when all together.
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The front wall is about 1 scale foot lower on the right than on the left. I had a large gap in the top of the siding where the wall meets the corner on the right side. My fix for this was to bring the bottom up a bit to make it less obvious. It'll be easier to mask a gap once I add the foundation and the scenery on the bottom.
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The little 3 wall section on the left is suppost to fit in the hole in the siding. It's way off. I have about 6" too much space. It's not glued in place but I'll need to figure out how to hide that.

Some pretty strange inconsistencies in the kit so far. I'll keep working through it and see what I can make of this.

-Steve

Steve very nice colors and weathering.

Looks great, Steve. I love the detail you're presenting relating to troubles you're seeing and how you are dealing with them. Good ideas for future use.

Steve,
    great work on the painting of the windows and the doors!
     The chip board behind the doors is a trick that I utilize also.  I have also used scale 1x3 for "gap trimming" in the past.
   Was this kit laser cut or hand cut walls? Its funny to think how scratch-building a structure is sometimes easier then building a kit like this!! You're doing a pretty fantastic job given the difficulties!  Makes me appreciate the quality of the FSM kits that I have built!

Nice work around on the doors Steve - coming along nicely

Doug

Thanks guys.

Bob, the instructions say laser cut. They definitely lack the precision of some of the other kits. I've never had weird gaps or other issues with FSM kits even some of the real old ones.

-Steve

Looking good, Steve.

Nice fixes and improvements. 

With the small door - I wonder whether they meant to frame the door out as you did and then attach the door to the back of the frame (but within it rather than behind it) to achieve a bit of negative detail?  That way the hinges and door handle would still be visible but the door would be set back a scale 4 1/2" or so.  You could still put the 4 by 2" trim on to hide the cladding/ framing seam.

Cheers, Mark.

Great start Steve.

Hey Steve:

Coming along nicely. I'll be following along.

Karl

Steve,


Thank you for starting this thread. I have this building. Actually, Tom Langford aka ACL1504 gave it to me. It has resided on my "to do" shelf awaiting for someone to build this monster and let me know all the problems that he or she incurred during the build. I have opened the box.


As you know, i have been quite busy on other projects, including the current steel mill. I know you will do a wonderful job on the build and keep everyone informed on the good and bad problems that you will experience. So, thank you for starting this kit.  I'll be watching closely in between my steel mill project and the 2019 PSR Regional convention her in Arizona in September. We have a great convention planned.


Keep up the great work.


Frank / Erieman

Thanks everyone, glad to have you following along.

Frank, I'll try to do my best at working through and documenting any challenges I come across.

I did discover a mistake I made earlier. I misread the directions about framing out the smaller door on the rear of the structure with 6x6s. They actually call for framing it with 2x6s but still setting the door back into the opening. It makes more sense that way. I'm still going to leave the door the way I had it with the framing on the exterior wall.

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This is the issue I had with the smaller building not fitting properly into the opening. I have about a scale 6' gap between the wall and the corner.

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If I move it over to fill the gap it opens up on the other side.

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This is what the other side looks like now. I'm not sure why they didn't just make the siding run the full length of the wall so you could just butt the little addition to it.
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This is the other weird area of the kit. This rear wall is intentionally short at the top and it looks like they want you to build some exposed rafters or a vent of some kind here.
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This is the only picture of this area in the instructions. Even if it has some real world prototype I think it looks weird and strange to me.
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I got the roof cards cut out so I can map out how everything will fit. The rear wall has a small peaked section that is blocking the card from sitting properly. This is due to the extra bracing I added to the wall. If I had not braced it the card would fit behind the peaked wall.

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I cut a little notch out of the card so it fits properly. The dotted lines going towards the front of the vehicle are not for cutting. They are to let you know where not to add roofing so the other roof card fits properly.
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They really want you to add a lot of vents and chimneys to this small building. 7 total. They are very specific about placement of these pieces but the roof card has no horizontal lines to help make sure you apply the roofing straight.
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I spent some time trying to figure out what to do with this area at the top of the rear wall. This spot will not be visible when the building is installed on the layout so I decided to go with a quick fix. If it was visible I think I would take the wall down and redo it so it runs the full length. I added this cross support bracing so I had something tangible to glue the siding to.
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I used a piece of scrap siding to plug the void. This is the bottom wall of the little office that sits on the barge on the old original FSM pile driver. I cut it lengthwise and it fit perfectly in the spot.
It will be hardly noticeable once the roofing is on and not visible at all once the building is installed on the layout.
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I spent some time trying to get a feel for the rear overhang area. The roof card doesnt line up correctly with the marking on the main roof. If I match everything up I have about 1/8" on either side of the card overhang. I need to modify this area heavily so that the depth of the building fits my spot. I won't be building the loading dock here, it will not fit.
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I got the rolled roofing laid out across the main roof.
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I cut out my own roof card for the rear section. I took most of the overhang off the rear and I make it less wide so it matches the width of the main roof.
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It took some trial and error but I got all the roofing covered.
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First coat of paint on the roof is on. I used Apple Barrel Pavement to color the roof. It's similar to Floquil Weathered Black. I still need another coat and of course quite a bit of weathering.

Next step will be weathering the roof and adding all the rafters. Then on the the loading docks and stone foundation.

-Steve

Good grief, that's a lot of fiddling just to get kit pieces to fit together.  But then, I guess that what Master Creation kits are known for. 

But I do have a question - why put the valley roofing on top of the roof roofing?  Shouldn't the valley material go on first, then the roofing material?  It's all about shedding water.

Quote from: Oldguy on February 16, 2019, 09:21:28 AM
Good grief, that's a lot of fiddling just to get kit pieces to fit together.  But then, I guess that what Master Creation kits are known for. 

Yeah, I was just thinking the same thing as I was reading this. I bought a Muldoon's Distillery way back when. I love the building design but am a little anxious about what I'll be getting into once I start it. That will be years from now. Hoping my modeling chops will be up to the task by then....

Steve nice job on the modifications. The building looks good so far.

Looking good, Steve.

You're doing well nutting out ways to fix those problems.  At least with a scratch build when you run into a problem like that you say "woops!  Got that wrong!"  and then come up with a fix.  You don't spend ages trying to work out if there is a reason for the problem you have somehow overlooked.

With the butnoyl roof (which I think is the same as rolled roofing) - I think generally they roll a strip down the valley first and then cut the horizontal strips back a bit from the valley in a nice straight line - parallel with the valley.  However - having lived in a house with a flat butnoyl roof, those seams are pretty good at keeping water out.  It would be more important to get this around the right way with tiles, shingles, corrugated iron etc.  It is the reason I have always hatted patches of corrugated iron slapped on top of an old roof, and with the corrugations running the wrong way!  Any water would run straight down the roof, under the patch, and fall down the hole!  BTW - it is something I have never seen in reality - only on models.

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks everyone.

Bob and Mark you are right I shouldve done the valleys first. I thought about going back and fixing my mistake by it's not going to be easily seen once installed on the layout and it'll be a complete redo of the roof to fix it so I'll leave it as it is I think. I was more concerned with covering up the seam between the 2 roofs and I forgot to take into account prototypical accuracy.

-Steve

Couldn't you just go back and put down another layer of tarpaper? Just like the 1:1 guys do, no?

here's a pic from that other build online of that weird vent or window

Thanks Jim. I looked at that model a bit but I didn't see that area. Still looks really weird to me.

Vince, I thought about doing that but it'll be strangely lumpy and I doubt it will look right.

I made a bit more progress over the weekend.

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I added the rafter tails to the main shed and installed the addition. I got about the gap issue by adding some corner trim on the rear and just lightly spreading the back walls of the little addition. The kit should've came with a blank peaked wall to make it easier to keep the little roof level. I just added this 10x10 and eyeballed it.

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The templates for the rafters were all wrong so I did it the George Sellios method of cutting them long and nipping the ends with rail nippers.
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I started adding the little stone base around the building. None of it was made to fit. I hacked up a bunch of different lengths of wall and glued them to the base.
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The kit doesn't provide enough stone to complete the whole base. I think they are assuming you won't add stone walls under the loading docks. I wanted to add them everywhere because I will be modifying the configuration of the loading docks a bit. This back area wont be seen once it's installed on the layout so I just added some wood to give me some surface to glue the structure down.
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The kit comes with this card for creating a cement mixer. It's very thin cardstock about the thickness of a business card.
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I cut the pieces out. I made a copy of the template in case I screwed it up.
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I glued it together. Pretty straightforward.
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The kit comes with L channel to trim out the tank. I made some 45 degree cuts along the top edge only.
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I added the legs. Also L channel.
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This picture wasn't much help trying to finish the bottom of the tower.
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This is the other picture provided of the lower portion of the tower.
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I painted the tower with gray primer. I might repaint it darker but I haven't decided yet.
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I was anxious to get started on this little office building so I pulled the castings out and started to get a plan together. I need to modify the kit and disguise it because I already have the same building on the layout a few feet away.
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I decided I would use the walls as the first floor of a 2 story building. I cut off both peaked walls so they match up with the height of the other 2 walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-200219212107-37965675.jpeg&hash=42d97612e7714e5cdb9e09d5097ee0a76124e2f6)
I have a few ideas about how this building will look but I need to think about it a bit and decided on a configuration. I have some sketches but they only make sense to me so I won't post them till I have something sensible.
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I also spent some time making a sign up for the roof of the main shed. My printer is acting up so I haven't been able to print it yet.


At this point I've mostly done away with the instructions for this kit and I'm going my own direction. Tomorrow I'll try to start detailing and weathering the shed roof and the cement tower. Maybe I'll start working on the office building.


-Steve

Steve, great job!I am coming to the party late. I recognised this one from way back and discovered this kit is in my stash. I think I put it to one side after building Fanny Schawns and finding a lot of parts were missing. That building ended up as a kit bash on my layout "Mill Falls". I also have found part completed kits of the Railhead and Ruther B. Hayes Coachworks. I think I put them to one side when I realised that I probably did not have the skill required some 15 years ago..........I did complete the Saw Mill though which because of the instructions was a complete scratch build. Keep up the good work.
Mike :)

Really nice so far Steve.

Thanks Mike and Curt. Glad to have you following along.

Mike, I feel like the only way to approach these kits is as a box of parts to use for a scratchbuild or kitbash. I haven't read much of the directions yet for this one. I'm mostly building off the pictures and some of the templates.

I made some more progress over the weekend on the diorama. I made some good headway on the kitbashed stone office building.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-250219230826-380461538.jpeg&hash=3666b229976ae26310aeb9f99771f957d03150c7)
I managed to get the sign to print clearly so I made up the signage for the warehouse building. I glued it to a few scale 2x10s and used 4 4x4s as support posts. One of the Foscale kits I built Doug recommending making 1 sign or billboard post longer and using it as an anchor to placement. It's a very useful technique that I've used quite a bit now.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-250219230826-380471078.jpeg&hash=14881053a306e7f86a16d70074523799e60fac36)
You can see where I drilled the hole for the post.
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Sign is on the building.
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I painted the tower black again and decided I wanted to stencil something on it. I have a Silhoutte Cameo cutting machine I use for stencils. It's a discontinued model so I got it for cheap. It doesn't really work too well. I usually have to follow the cut lines with an x-acto to get a clean cut.
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I used a brush to blot the letters on over the stencil. I weathered and blended everything with some chalks. I'll do more weathering once I get the piping and some of the details in place.
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I primed and painted the stone walls. Gray primer for the stone and some dark green craft paint for the windows.
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I washed the walls with A&I. I also dry-brushed them in white but I neglected to take a picture of that stage unfortunately.
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These windows are from the random bag of windows in the kit box. I'm going to use them for the second floor of the office.
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This is one of the office walls. I used the windows I showed earlier painted the same color green as the stone wall windows. The siding is a khaki craft color. I used the mineral spirits technique to get some peel and a few coats of A&I to dirty it up a bit.
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I wanted to do something a little different so I made these shutters with some scale 2x4s and scale 1x2s.
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This is the front wall second story wall.
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This is what I came up with as a kitbash using those stone walls.
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I added some green 6x6s between the walls and the siding. I also cut out the roof card.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-250219231054-38060105.jpeg&hash=262af6407a04a7ceba38e1047dc85d7d7d3301c4)
I added some Bar Mills shingles. I haven't done any coloring or weathering to them yet. The clapboard section is not glued to the stone walls yet. I just placed it there so everyone could get a feel for what I intended.

The second floor door will get some stairs and maybe a little porch area. The front will get some support posts as well.


-Steve

Excellent work Steve, everything seems to blend in great, the wood weathering , the signs , great build.

Looks very good, Steve.

Steve,

This is coming together really nice, fantastic actually. Love the addition of the second story on the stone walls.

Tom  ;D

Steve,


I really like what you did to avoid having two of the same building within shouting distance.  Are you going to have a truck scale under the overhang, perhaps?

Really nice modeling. I especially like the signage and stone walls.

Thanks everyone.

Jerry, I originally intended for it to be a little longer to accommodate a vehicle but the area it will fit on the layout won't allow it. It's a little too narrow with the posts now I think especially for a truck scale.

-Steve

Steve,
What a blast from the past...don't recall anyone ever building it...your doing a great job...like the colors...nice construction too...and you will have something different that nobody else has !
Tommy

Looking good, Steve.

It will be interesting watching your vision for this structure become reality.

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks for the positive feedback everyone!

Tom, The only pictures I've seen of this kit are the ones Mark found on brasstrains.com. It looks like quite a few people have this kit in their collection but it doesn't seem like it's gotten built much. Mine is definitely going to be different. I think the original diorama is something like 16"x16. I'm trying to fit mine in a really narrow area about 4"x15. I'll post some pictures of it's final location so everyone can get a better idea of what I'm trying to do.

Mark, I'm curious myself how it will look once it's done.

I made a little bit of progress last night on it.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-270219154322-380881760.jpeg&hash=aa508487d2392ac6536100b5cb4af2f9c2184803)
I finished the roof and added the rafter tails but I wanted to work the color a bit on the shingles.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-270219154322-38100819.jpeg&hash=3dfa0c6b3a9cb8ad4a0a4bc5b0bf414f684e86f4)
I started to get closer to the color I wanted with some dusting of chalks on the roof. It also helped match the ridge cap boards I used.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-270219154323-381011704.jpeg&hash=039101541175b9c25d8d1b730a771e9638891c40)
I added some drybrushing to the shingles and it brought everything together. I like the effect of drybrushing over pastel chalks sometimes. It will pull some of the chalks up and mix with the white giving a little more variety to the colors.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-270219154323-381022288.jpeg&hash=2d54b17b3c4f9720a3ac45b390f90f4c6fca12fd)
I added the rafter tails, the front posts and glued the top structure to the bottom. The corners on the stone building really need some disguising. Once I figure out how the porch posts line up I'll know where I need some vines and things to hide the seams.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-270219154323-381031234.jpeg&hash=d546af637e6c8ea3b3ff6b3b41b90549a4238172)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-270219154339-38104508.jpeg&hash=c4fd0e1418951ba77f51570f70e46b00df695fba)

I drew up a rough plan for the stairs and the second story porch. I also pre-colored the wood so tonight I should be able to knock it out pretty quick. I'm probably going to try to get working on the loading docks for the other warehouse building. I'm trying to get all the buildings pre-assembled so I can feel out the configuration on the layout. I really don't have much of an idea of how everything will fit just yet.

Thanks for following along.

-Steve

Steve  - I have a Classic Miniatures General store that I used the same Bar Mills shingles on and I have walked away from several times because I was not happy with the coloring. What pastels did you use on yours because that was the effect I was looking for - excellent

Doug

Thanks Doug. I mostly used Rembrandt 408.3 but a did add some other similar shades. That's my favorite chalk choice for dirtying something up.

-Steve

Very nice modeling Steve.

Looking good.

Steve, I really like the look of that wood over stone office. The colors are also very well done.
--George

Thanks everyone.

I got to work on the 2nd floor deck area last night a bit.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-280219062554-381051900.jpeg&hash=70aaa99d862f6c6f6760719b0bd7f7e393bbbaf4)
I ended up making the decking follow the length of the stone foundation on this side. By doing this I could cover the seams on the stone castings using the support posts.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-280219062554-381061510.jpeg&hash=5c447ed3c422ce3325cb6b0e19e5a722e59ab4a2)
This portion of building something like this is always a little tedious to me. Trying to visually get all the posts straight without moving the other posts. I also pretty much never give my glue enough time to dry before I start messing with something near it and I usually end up disturbing something.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-280219062554-38107767.jpeg&hash=5f8530c4b7fd81eb6a02850bda35bb583edf233c)
I adding some bracing. I only used horizontal bracing on the front of the supports. This is a construction company so I wanted to have some pipes or lumber maybe a ladder or 2 stored under the porch between the supports.
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Added the stairs. These are built from Northeastern Scale Lumber laser cut stringers. I like these much better than something made of plastic or white metal. With a chopper and these laser cut pieces it only takes about 5 minutes to build a staircase. Before I added the stairs I gave the rest of the assembly a wash of A&I.
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I gave the stairs another wash of A&I to match.

Next step is adding the railings.

Thanks for following along.

-Steve

Great looking modeling. I agree about using NESL stringers.

Steve........

I'm a lay down for outside stairs.  They were everywhere before our kinder and gentler world prevented them.

Great model.

thanx
Bob

I love this thread as I have both kits in my stash. I scarfed up the cement company at an NMRA meet at Blue Ridge Summit last year for only $50. (complete)and got the silver edition of Fannies by trading in a few Jordan vehicle kits at the Albany show. I hope all the electronics work in Fannies!

Thanks everyone.

Bob, I'm also a sucker these type of stairs. I think they always add some interesting character to a model and it's an easy way to add some depth to a scene.

Gleiphart, I'm glad you're enjoying the thread. I wish I could build this kit as per the instructions but I don't have the right space and I'm missing the brick building. Hopefully my modified configuration still helps you get started on yours. These kits can be found for dirt cheap if you keep your eyes open. Even if you don't build it the castings alone are worth more than $50.00 not to mention the 3 trucks, the stripwood and the little stone office that comes with it. I've never seen one of the silver edition kits in person. I'd like to see how all the electronics work. The sound especially interests me on the silver editions.

I made some small progress finishing up the stairs and porch yesterday. I ended up fussing with a switch machine for a while last night and ran out of time to get anything done. The machine wasn't working and it took me far longer than it should to figure out I had a bad power supply. It still had power but not enough to move it.

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Railing posts in place. I use scale 3x3s for these.
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Upper railing assembly is in. No matter how rustic or derelict a porch I'm making I always miter the joint for the upper railing. I think it always looks bad if I do an overlapping board at the corner. Just my person preference.
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I'm not sure what you call this piece but I'll call it the front cross support.
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Everything is in place but it still needs another coat of A&I for the railings. Gotta wait till it fully dries for that.
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This is the area on the layout I plan on squeezing this diorama into. As you can see it's very narrow. Definitely using some selective compression for this scene. It ended up being a bit more narrow than I had originally thought but I'll make it work.


I really prefer to detail and finish my scenes at the workbench and then integrate them into the layout but I think this one will be assembled and detailed in place which means I need to have all the components finished before I start laying everything out.

Thanks for following along. I'm going to work on the loading docks today I think

-Steve

Really nice job on the stairs and handrails Steve.

Nice job on the deck and stairway, Steve.

I didn't know about those laser cut stringers.  I've been attempting to make mine out of 12" by 2" using a Campbell stringer as a template.  The wood loves to split!  It usually takes 2 or 3 attempts.  I'll be looking into those stringers.

Cheers, mark.

Thanks Curt, Thanks Mark.

Mark, they are the way to go and a pack lasts a pretty long time. I think someone else may make a laser cut stringer but I've never used it. Maybe Builders in Scale?

Moving forward a bit with the diorama I added the loading dock to the warehouse building. I also started the process of adding the detail castings to both the stone base office porch and the warehouse loading dock.

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I framed out the base for the loading dock. I really only added the cross supports so I can split the boards and still have supports under them. The dock is so short you can't really see any details under it especially once I add some dirt and weeds. I use double sided tape to secure the framework to the template.

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About 10 minutes with my chopper and all the decking is down. I use the wood stops anywhere the dock will meet the structure to give a straight flat edge.

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I glued the assembly to the structure and added the cross supports. I used the same template for the upper level of the decking as the first I just shortened it a bit.
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I added a little wood ramp between the 2 sections.
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I started adding the details.
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Some of these castings are from this kit some are from my castings box. I only have about half of the castings painted at this point.
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I added a little railing at the end of the dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-050319115833-382011238.jpeg&hash=a4b8c280ed58d2e86d764adb8f185652a04e0c32)
I added some details to the upper level here as well. I try to detail as much as I can on the bench rather than at the layout.

Thanks for following along. I have a few more subassemblies to add at the next update.

-Steve

Really nice deck work, Steve.

The second story one, in particular, is a real eye catcher.

Cheers, Mark.

Great modeling Steve , I like the little touches , such as the ramp from one deck to another , most wouldn't think about that and just leave it as a step.

Really nice modeling. I agree with others about the second level and detail parts.

Nice work Steve - the coloring is spot on

Doug

Nice work!!

Jerry

Hey Steve:

What you have done so far looks just beautiful. Keep the pics flowing.

Karl

Thanks for all the positive feedback everyone!

I got a few things done last night and today. I put together a Tichy crane and a little water tower for the scene.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-070319223006-38221936.jpeg&hash=7ac5048a8497601f787487abef2584a567454380)
I had a couple of these Tichy kits in my stash so I decided to build one for the scene. They go together very easily and quickly. Took me around 30 minutes to build it I think.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-070319223104-382282097.jpeg&hash=6e0b87cdfa650c30e16ffd676d6a11528509098e)
I primed it with a orange/red primer followed by a coat of Aqua-net hairspray then I painted it with Apple Barrel Pavement.

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I used rubbing alcohol and small stiff brush to pull up some of the gray paint and expose the rusty color under it. I blended it all together with a few shades of rust chalk. This is one of the first times I've messed with this technique so I was pretty conservative with the amount of paint I removed.
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I'm thinking about placing it here next to the loading dock on some type of concrete base.
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First step for me building a water tower is the scribed siding. I scribed horizontal lines in the siding and colored it with A&I. The scribed lines act as a guide for the thread I'm going to use for the bands. None of this was included in the kit I just wanted to scratch build one for the scene. I use thin scribed siding for this.
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I used rubber bands to wrap the siding around the core which in this case is a cardboard center from a label maker used for printing oil change reminders for the corner of your windshield.
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After everything dries you can see the lines and they leave enough of an impression that it will hold thin thread inside.
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I used double sided tape to secure the bottom framework of the upper tank support. It will be about 10'x10'.
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I covered the beams with planks.
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While the support was drying I added the thread to the tank. I used some brown thread I got from Wal-Mart. I don't know anything about thread types so I just picked one that didn't have many fuzzies coming off. I secured the thread with a drop of super glue every 1/4-1/2" or so.
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I wanted to build this tank with a flat top instead of shingled roof. I used a compass to draw a circle on some thin scribed siding.
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I cut out the circle and stained it with A&I.
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Added some 2x6s as cross support.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-070319223311-38235178.jpeg&hash=67d6926fd92a24089b36c82a030f3e18431932df)
I outlined the hatch opening with some scale 2x2s.
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I built the door directly on top.
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I build the water tank support structure right over some crude drawings I made. I made 2 of them.
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I glued the supports on and added some cross bracing.
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I ran out of NB&W castings so I had to order some. Once they come I'll be able to finish the tank. I'm thinking it will sit right next to the office building but I'm not sure yet.

Thanks for following along. I spent some time getting the area ready on the layout to start adding the buildings. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to place at least the warehouse in it's final spot and detail around it. I'm probably going to work on some bins with stone and dirt for the scene also.


-Steve

Steve,

Beautiful work on the crane and the water tower.

Matt

Love the subtle coloring on the crane. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Excellent results with the crane and water tank.

Excellent, Steve. It seems that every day I'm seeing someone display realistic work based on cheap, craft-store paints. This is great for the hobby.

Steve.....

I've tied water tanks and cisterns before but your scribed method is WAY TOO simple.

Thanx for demonstrating.

see ya
Bob

Beautiful work and I appreciate the documentation of the build


John

Steve,
Wonderful job on the build. If I wasn't so busy with the regional convention this September, i would drag out the same kit and work on it. Beautiful job, my friend. Too bad that the main structure was not included in the box. It is awesome and the reason i bought the kit. i have a wonderful place of it, just not the time to build it currently. Keep up the beautiful work.


Frank / Erieman

Thanks for all the positive feedback everyone!


Bob, It's very simple and easy. I learned the scribing technique from building the FSM stone base water tank I think it's kit #240. I've since adopted it on any water tank I build.

Frank, I'd like to see your build of it. I do wish I had the main structure but I don't think it would fit in this narrow scene anyway so I'd have to use it elsewhere.

Vince, I try to use as many non-modeling materials I can for coloring and weathering. Floquil or Testors can go away but cheaper craft paints and pastel chalks should be around for the forseeable future hopefully.

I made some progress getting everything laid out and figured out over the weekend. The natural placement of the structures in such a narrow spot felt a little challenging to me. I'm looking for selective compression of the scene but still have a natural feel.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-110319214634-383131693.jpeg&hash=35675d3922b7799cfabdd0db81a3ebbd6b177d1a)
I decided to elevate the office so I cut a piece of 1/2" foam and painted it brown as the base.
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Glued the office structure down. Still wet in this picture.
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I wanted to add some ladders to the water tank assembly. This is how I build them cheap and easy.
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With a chopper this took about 5 minutes to build. I used double sided tape to hold it in place while I put the rungs on.
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I made another small one for the tank.
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Ladders are in place and the tank structure is glued down. The scenery under the overhang is still wet. I added the little stairs under the front door.
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I added some details under the front porch. These type of scenes are a good place to use some less than perfect castings or some not so great paint jobs.
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I added some pipes under the porch. They are made from Evergreen styrene tubing that I drilled out on the ends to make thinner. I sprayed them with dark gray primer and weathered with chalks.
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Here is the office glued in it's home.
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I added the trees and foliage above and behind the concrete wall today. I'm still adding more there.
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I build this wooden bin to use for some stone. This is not part of the kit either just something I thought would look neat.
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This is where the bin will sit. I'll add a couple different types of stone in it.

I'm trying to get the main structures placed in there final positions so I can figure out what else I need to complete the scene.

Thanks for following along.

-Steve

What a beautiful scene this will be , great structure , stunning bridge , awesome trees .

Great coloring on the crane.  Nice job on the water tank as well.  Anxious to see how the whole scene comes together.

Jeff

Steve a beautiful scene.  Nice work on those buildings and tank.

Jerry

Thanks everyone

Hey Steve:

The whole build looks just beautiful. I really like the water tank. It adds great class to the structure.

Karl

Thanks Karl

Great looking scene.

Thanks Curt.

Todays update..

I started to get everything together but thought the scene was missing something in the area between the storage shed and the office building so I scratched up a little shed with some workbenches for small repairs to machines or vehicles.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090147-38325103.jpeg&hash=9dbb204e5da5e9491b338249a98f2cbab0f660b9)
I started by making some supports on top of graph paper. No complicated plans here I just made 2 of these with one being 1 ft higher for the roof pitch.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090147-383561931.jpeg&hash=a65c56f906adea5c6810eefdd5f4968a55abfe2a)
The open one will be the front. I wanted it to be pretty rough and simple so I just added some planks along the lower portion of the structure. I wanted them to be only just a little higher than the workbench.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090147-383572407.jpeg&hash=d595094e1911cb3b0c53c576eb323a2f02fb68ab)
Here it is starting to take shape.
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I added a wood floor and the cross planks for the sides.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090147-3835971.jpeg&hash=7d6f13952999584880b9c0f15a759ba803a98d94)
I planned on adding a workbench in this corner area but I knew I couldn't detail under it with it in place so I added some junk to the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090237-38360511.jpeg&hash=c85f0d19d840e6116bfda80292be9f8ccf5e313a)
Installed the workbench. I think this workbench casting came with the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090237-38361492.jpeg&hash=36ecc48484877ad960c7892d46b1270b276bdb9c)
I started to add some other details to fill out the scene.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090237-383641949.jpeg&hash=2c0a959f2bc932e9a2b054877cc2996aff95db45)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090316-383651727.jpeg&hash=7d54b24791e9cef5566c1e82df1d4766b4856c6c)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090316-383661346.jpeg&hash=adb18947970561a0289547e6ea62e1e8eaaa984e)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090317-383671472.jpeg&hash=bd83538d094680a385c4bb5e632be8011f4f3e12)
I added some roof rafters and a little thread hose from the air compressor. I think I'm going to do a metal roof on this one.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090237-383621278.jpeg&hash=c31e79bbd9067eaf800bcee798c403b5d86c6fe1)
While I waited for the shed glue to dry I installed the warehouse on the layout. The scenery is still wet in this photo and I haven't added any of the details around the building yet.

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F487-160319090237-38363681.jpeg&hash=fc18f7077789234c566bbd12d0518e0479cf5b2a)
The small repair shed will fit between the 2 buildings.

Thanks for following along. Hopefully this weekend I'll finish the shed and start to work the rest of the base scenery down so I can start detailing. I'm going to attempt to build one of the trucks that came with the kit once I get all the buildings worked out. After the challenges I had with fitment of some of the building components I don't have a ton of confidence in how these vehicles will go together but I'm going to give it my best shot.

Good or bad I'll let you guys know how it works out.

-Steve

Steve, really nice work all the way through. Can't wait to see some final "finished" shots. That "last minute" storage shed is top shelf work, too.
--George

Very nice work Steve.

Thanks George, Thanks Curt

Hello Everyone,

I built one of the Oldsmobile trucks and added some scenery to the diorama. The truck kit is every bit as difficult and frustrating as I was expecting. I took many photos of the subassemblies so this will be a little bit of a large update.

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I added the scenery under the cement tank and I also added the piping that comes off the top. Originally it was designed to go into the rear of the right side of the building but I had no room so I redirected it into the side of the little bump out.

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I installed the crane also. I made a little concrete base by spray painting a piece of wood light gray and weathering it with chalks.
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Closer shot of the crane.
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I added some junk around the little shed. The water stain down the concrete wall was not intentional, it's from the diluted white glue I used to secure the foliage at the top of the wall. I need to blend and cover it up some I think.
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I filled the bins with 2 different types of stone. It's still wet in this photo.
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I started to fill the scenery in this rear area also. I need to add some trees to the scene. It will also have a waterfall in the rear.

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These are all the parts for the Oldsmobile truck. The kit comes with enough parts to complete 3 trucks. I've never worked with photo-etched brass before so this will be a little different.
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I blackened all the parts. Jaks Pewter Black was used for the lead parts and Brass Black for the brass.
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The Brass Black gave the sheet a nice dark patina to work on.
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Each side of the frame is made by sandwiching 3 brass frame pieces together.
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I completed one side here. These pieces are so fragile and bendable it makes the older SS Ltd trucks with the lead frame rails seem sturdy and easy to work with.
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This is the motor assembly.
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This is the intake manifold assembly that glues to the top of the motor.
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I painted the lower engine block red. I don't really know what color an engine this old.
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I glued the upper intake on the top of the motor. The instructions call for adding a starter, coolant hoses, a radiator fan, shift linkage and spark plug wires to the motor. I wanted to see how the fit of the rest of the kit was before I went to the trouble to add all those things.
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I added the radiator assembly, the center crossmember and the rear frame section to the kit.
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Both sides of the frame are glued together. This is one of the most fragile assemblies I've ever dealt with.
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I started working on the cab while the frame was drying. This piece was made by laminating a piece of clear acetate between 2 section of brass sheet.
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The doors are made the same way.
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I started gluing the rear wheels to the rear differential assembly. These actually fit together well. The rear drum brakes are dished and the axle assembly fits right in the dished area.
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While that was drying I tried to get the cab together.
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This was a pretty frustrating spot in the kit. Took me a few attempts and some fresh air breaks to get it together.
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This is the interior of the cab. The seat is glued in place.
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I painted the seat and added the steering wheel. The interior will not be visible so I didn't worry about the shift levers or brake linkage.
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The hood is made from a straight sheet of brass bent to the profile of the radiator. You can probably imagine how easy ended up being.
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Rear axle is in place. The axle assembly has some excellent detail. You can see the detail in the trailing arms and the driveshaft yoke.
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The fenders do not come pre-bent. They give you a piece of brass that looks like this and it gets bent over the lead piece you can see in the background.
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This is a better picture of the 2 pieces used to make the fender.
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Here is my attempt at bending the fender. More on that later...
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I glued the engine and transmission in place. Before I did that I sprayed the frame assembly with the wheels on it with dark gray spray paint. I also painted the wheels roof brown.
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Trying to match the angle of the driveshaft between the transmission tailshaft and the rear axle yoke was very difficult. The engine/trans assembly is lead so it wants to roll while the glue is setting. I did my best here.
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I made a driveshaft out of wire.
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This my starting attempt at the fenders. The running boards need to be tweaked. This is all very hard to work with because it's very thin brass sheet and it bends when you touch it very easily.
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I painted the cab green and glued the hood in place. I ended up using a paintbrush handle to bend the hood to the correct shape. The instructions call for bending some brass wire to support the running boards. I chose to make some running board supports out of thin strips of black paper. I didn't add the radiator hose or spark plug wires. I had to cut off the passenger side of the intake so the hood would fit in place. The doors are interesting and unique.
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The kit doesn't come with a bed or anything. This is the complete kit.

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This was one of the most challenging kits I've built and I think it came out ok. It's not going to be a foreground model but it'll look fine a few feet from the front. I'm not sure if I'll end up building the other 2 or using the parts to detail some scenes.


Thanks for following along.


-Steve

Great job Steve, the scene looks fantastic and the truck a great accomplishment .

Great layout scene. You're a better modeler than me building that truck. I would of ham handed it into the trash can.

Thanks Jan, Thanks Curt.

Curt to be honest it almost made it's way in the trash a few times. I've replaced frames on real life trucks and it was easier and took less time.

-Steve

Steve,

Everything look great, the build and vehicle.

Those small brass cut outs are the hardest to build. I did in fact through one out. I'll build the other three as I'm sorry I got rid of the first one.

Tom  ;D

Hey Steve:

I'll be following along. Have fun with it.

Karl

Steve, just getting caught up with the last few days. That truck looks fantastic--very unique and wonderfully eccentric! But I am in awe of your tenacity with the kit. You should take a victory lap--you aced it.
--George
PS--just thinking of adding spark plug wires in HO makes my brain hurt. ;)

Thanks George. It is an interesting kit for sure. I've never seen one of these trucks on Shorpy or anywhere. The doors are really strange. I started building a few Jordan's for the scene and it's a relief how much easier they go together.

I think I've gotten to a stopping point with the scene. I added a Jordan Steam Shovel and some more details. I wanted to wait to add some fencing and a few other edge details until I figure out where the entrance will come in.

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I built this Jordan Steam Shovel over the last couple days. These are nice little kits and they go together pretty easily. I built one of the Steam Cranes for my salvage yard and it mostly went together the same way.

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Here is the crane in the scene. I was originally going to also add a Jordan Mack dump truck but I think I might put it on the road going in or out of the area. Of course the edge next to the track will get some more weeds and details but I'm going to wait for that.
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I added a few more details around the warehouse.
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I added a couple details around the office building as well. I just temporarily placed the oldsmobile truck behind the structure here. I'm not sure where it will fit just yet. I may use it on a completely different scene. The lower area in the foreground will be a little river/stream. The stream will tie into my Cartwrights Machine Shop but I made it too low to match the water level on that diorama so I need to rework the level of the creek bed.
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I added a few details around the front support posts. I'll probably add some more junk into the hillside but I havent decided on a fence yet here.

Thanks for following along everyone and for all the encouragement along the way. I had a lot of fun reworking the design of the kit.


-Steve

The scene looks great so far.  I wouldn't have had the patience to deal with building that truck.  You did a great job on it, and the whole kit.

Jeff

Steve


Fantastic modeling.  I'm really enjoying your thread.

That is an amazing scene.

Steve, beautiful scene all around--love the details. I particularly like the trees toward the back of the scene.
--George

You stumble across the weirdest things on Pintrest sometimes...Cairo Bank in Cairo WV..
look familiar?

"Mary Anne" looks great, both the model and on location!


One suggestion:  Add some darker shading (different color dirt or even some ground ashes mixed with dirt) to show the track paths where the shovel moved.


dave

I always found that model with the curved corner cutout very odd.  As such I knew it had to be based on a real building!

Cheers, Mark.

Wow very cool find Jim.

Hey Steve:

Looks just beautiful. Keep up the great work. Love the colors and weathering.

Karl