I decided for the next kit I'm going to build Gibley's Furniture from Bar Mills.
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First step of course is to separate and prime the castings. I always use double sided tape to stick all my windows to a sheet of paper.
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The shingles for the upper portion of the siding come off this sheet.
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The walls are made from this composite paper board. Similar material came with FOS Darnell's Autobody. It requires a different approach to weathering because it really reacts poorly to moisture.
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Windows are primed. I also gave them a wash of A&I.
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I primed all the shingle sheets with tan spray paint and I also gave them a wash of A&I.
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I'm going to be using one of these makeup sponges to apply the paint. I bought 100 of them on Amazon for $7.
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If you rip them in half they give you a nice rough texture to apply paint.
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I used the sponge to color the shingles. I wanted a slightly inconsistent color but I still wanted them to represent painted shingles not sunbleached cedar shakes.
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I used the same technique and color for all the windows.
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I painted all the walls Krylon dark gray automotive primer. I did a little test first and it didn't cause any warpage to the board material.
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I used a few A&I washes over the shingle sheets.
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I started adding the shingles to the walls.
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I did some antique white drybrushing on the shingles and very lightly the gray lower portion. I started installing the windows.
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I colored the storefront area with the same gray and a sponge.
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The laser cut pieces get sandwiched together to make the front doors and windows.
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All of the front pieces are put together.
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All of the acetate pieces are laser cut.
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I added the window glass to the front door pieces.
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This is the front door/window area all glued together.
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I added all the window glass and dirtied it up a bit with some brown chalk. I won't add the tilting windows until I glue all the walls together.
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The kit comes with laser cut wood pieces for the vertical battens on the lower portion of the walls. I decided to use some scale 1x2s I weathered with A&I.
I ran the board over the edge a little bit. I'll trim them once they are dry.
Thanks for following along. I'm almost ready to glue all the walls together.
-Steve
Great start! I built this kit and agree with you about how the wall material does not like moisture,,, super soft stuff! The one thing that I don't like in these kits is the laser cut pieces for deck, porch supports,,, just don't look as good as strip wood. I do like the rafter tail pieces however
Great start , I'm following
I agree with you Bob. I never really like when laser cut pieces are used to replace stripwood. Also I like the Bar Mills wood shake shingles and I'm a little disappointed they didn't come in this kit. They are one of my go-to shingles if I don't do individual shingles. I think it would've been an improvement over this type. I used them here and I liked the result.
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-Steve
I've always liked this kit and there's been some great build threads done on it. Looking forward to this one too.
Hey Steve:
I like how the shingles came out. Walls look pretty nice to. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Karl
Thanks Bob, Jan, Raymo and Karl. Glad you're following along.
-Steve
Really looks great. I am following along.
Jim D
I'm a bit late, but I am looking in Steve. :)
Steve, I am following along, too. Looking very nice so far. I like your wall colors.
--George
Very nice work Steve.
Great work...I love the shingled walls...I have a couple Bar Mills kits (in boxes) with that feature. Excellent colors as always!
John
Nice job shingles really llok great.
Jerry
Thanks everyone!
I made some progress on the kit over the last couple days.
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Started gluing the walls together.
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The front of the building was a little bit tricky to get set in just right. I let the bottom completely dry before adding the top shingled section.
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The main roof comes with these self adhesive tarpaper strips. I decided not to use the supplied strips.
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I covered the roof with tarpaper. While this is drying I'll finish gluing the walls.
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I glued the upper section to the front.
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Left side.
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Rear view.
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I ended up not using the laser cut rafter tails. I think it's a clever idea but I thought the notches in the top of the walls made it difficult to shingle all the way to the top. I added the rafter tails the old fashioned way. After they dry I'll cut them with rail nippers.
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My kit didn't come with any signage so I made my own.
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The sign is attached to the front and the rafter tails are all trimmed and stained.
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I added the small roof to the addition and the rafter tails.
Thanks for following along. Next step is weathering and detailing the roofing.
-Steve
Really nice looking build Steve.
Wow , love it Steve , the entrance is so nice.
Well done.
Hey Curt:
All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what a beautiful job so far. I noticed when you dry-brushed the lower walls they kinda look like stucco. What did you use for the stucco if I'm right. I really like how it came out. Or do the walls just have A small amout of texture.
Karl
Thanks everyone.
Karl, The walls are a type of pressed paper composite that has a bit of texture in it. It almost has enough texture to simulate HO stucco. Aside from the interesting texture I'm not a fan of the stuff. It can't really handle any moisture so it makes it very difficult to work with using traditional weathering techniques. It also wicks moisture when gluing down all the ground cover.
I made some major progress on the kit over the last few days and I'm mostly done at this point until I get it set in place on the layout.
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The kit included one of the Bar Mills Insta-Fences but I ended up using this fence from Central Valley.
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I ended up making a custom sign for the water tank as well.
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I'm not sure on the road in front of the building yet but I'll work it out once the diorama is installed on the layout. I may end up doing some cobblestone for this area.
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I didn't get super crazy detailing the rear area because it won't be visible.
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Here is the diorama in place on the layout.
Thanks for following along.
-Steve
Really great work, as always, Steve! Your coloring and weathering are fantastic. Always enjoy your builds and scenery!
John
Hey Steve:
that's kinda what I thought about the walls. You have done a terrific job on this one.
Karl
Great looking building Steve.
Well done Steve.....like all the details in the scene. 8)
Very nice Steve!
Great work Steve.
It looks great there Steve. Very nice work.
Steve - Great job on what must have been a tedious project. Weathering on that material must have been a challenge. Did you just use dry brushing or did you use other weathering, such as chalk? It really looks good and it will fit nicely on your layout.
I agree with the other's. Great Job!!!!!
Thanks for the positive feedback everyone!
The walls were painted with dark gray auto primer and weathered with chalks and some light dry brushing. I had some issues with water marking from moisture wicking up after I started doing the scenery so I used some dark gray chalk to hide it a bit.
-Steve
great job! I'm about 90% done with mine, my only gripe is the wall material being so soft! I see you didn't attach the back shed, I attached mine but with modifications. The placement on the layout looks fantastic!
The project really adds a lot to your layout. A very terrific job.
Thanks Bob and Steve
Nice work Steve. I like the color combo.
The walls are taskboard. I don't find it too troublesome to work with. FOS makes some storefronts that have thin mutins the large windows, and I have a darn time not warping them. One of the ways to keep walls from bowing is to apply paint to both sides or apply bracing, and sometimes both. And whatever you do not dilute your paint with water - that's just asking for trouble (it will delaminate). Then lightly age the walls in layers.
If the walls are really taskboard before painting of bracing wet them down and the place weights on them to dry
. When dry they will not warp. I have some test pieces I formed around cans that are at least 3 years old now and they are the same as when I did them.
The material must have a water activated glue in it which makes it formable. Not sure on the thin window mullions as would not use taskboard for that ,not right material in my eyes. Try it in a scrap piece and you'll see how hard it becomes.
rich
Steve,
Really nice modeling done on this favorite Bar Mills Kit. It came out fantastic !!!
Tommy