Before I get to building any roundhouses, I need some structures that would affect trackwork. Namelya Robertson Cinder Conveyor and a Red Devil Coal Loader. And since I have two roundhouses, that means two sets of similar equipment.
So up first, the cinder conveyor. I have two kits, bought at different times, one of which I started when I had the old narrow gauge layout. I started the pit, but moved on to other things and never got around to the above ground structures. Good thing I waited.
To remove the flash I found using old Xacto blades work very well. The dull cutting edge removed the flash and the back side effectively removed most parting lines.Sprue cutters work well on the sprue blobs and a good set of files and 600 grit sandpaper finish up the cleaning process. I found that an old toothbrush works wonder on removing some of the cut flash danglies.
For those who may not be all that familair with the conveyor, it can be found in the March 1969 MR.
As to the photos, the first is of the original kit that came in a drawer-style box. Two pages of drawings and a double sided set if instructions. It included code 40 rail for the conveyor. The "newer" kit came in a standard box (with a top), one page of drawings, double sided instructions, code 55 rail, and a lot more flash on the parts.
When cleaning the flash, pay particular attention to the intermediate support. Any flash here will not allow the rail to set properly. And boy are there a lot of tiny parts.
The castings for the pulleys and cart wheels are the same. Of course, the sprue is attached to the groove. I'll clean up the elbows after I attach them to the piping. Way too small for me too handle.
One caution, when cleaning up the the cart and the trap door, make sure that the bearings line up. Eventually, a hole has to be drilled through all four bearings for the axle to fit through.
After two days of cleaning parts, I am still a bit cross eyed.
Looks interesting and I'll be following.
I'll be watching your progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Looks like an interesting project, Bob. I'm in!
--George
Bob,
I'll be following as well. I built this one about 40+ years ago. Not a hard build but not easy either. If I remember correctly the larger castings on mine were very soft and bent at the slightest touch.
Tom ;D
I'll be looking in..... 8) Started mine in the early 80's and still haven't got it done. ::)
Hey Bob:
Looks like a fun kit. I will also be following along.
Karl
Day 3 of cleaning the flash. As stated before, I use an old Xacto #11 blade to cut through the flash. Then, turn the blade over and somewhat burnish and remaining flash/part lines. One can see the before and after in the photos below. Just be careful, as when cleaning the from the back side, that heavy dose of flash, just might be a gusset on the front. The only place to use a file is on the ends as the thin parts are too soft to take much of any force.
There are 8 pulley/cart wheels. It took me a bit to figure why some had better "grooves" than others. The cart wheels are wider and the spokes are slightly different. I missed that on the first 8 that I cleaned. An appropriately sized angle file will clean out the grooves so they can sit on the rail. The narrower units are the pulleys and about half of the circumference are filled with material that I gave up trying to clear. BTW - the wheels will fit only code 40 or code 55 rail heads.
The older kit had cardboard for the pit sides, bottom and ends. I don't like cardboard on a layout in the first place and I had already used it, so I went with plastic. Note - the "newer" kit didn't include any cardboard, so it must be supplied by the modeler.
I should mention that the plan template really didn't fit the pit casting, so I used the parts and did the old score and snap to make the ends. Then, disaster. Seems that the thin CA I have, was thinner than water and ran every where. Even with coated fingers I managed to pry the parts off the cutting mat and get them together. With fingers full of CA, I didn't any photos. I think I'll stay with the medium CA; at least it comes out in drops.
You're doing a good job that has to be really tedious.
I need to expand on my score and snap procedures on the plastic side pieces. Once I got the metal casting squared on the plastic, I marked the outline with a pencil. Then using a straight edge, I use the back side of the Xacto blade to score along the lines. One needs to use a straight edge that one doesn't really care about, as the blade will remove material on it as one scores the plastic. Here, I used a triangle with bad angles. I should note that the plastic is 0.40" thick and snaps easily on a straight line. Again, I used a sprue cutter to cut through the short section and then the remaining section snaps off easily.
The side piece needs a cutout for a between the rails apron. The ends were cut with a razor saw and then back to the score and snap. Since this piece was so small, I used a miniature slip joint pliers to grab the part and slowly work my way along the line.
Prior to priming, I need to straighten out the various bent pieces. The squaring jig again comes in handy. A gentle push with a flat rounded end of a lace draper made quick work of it.
Because the end and intermediate towers are made of two pieces, I decide that I need to prime, paint, and weather the insides prior to gluing them together. If I am priming the inside, I might as prime everything, right? I figured that I'll just used the rattle can primer and get'er done. Well, yeah. I must not have gone across fast enough as too slow it puddled something fierce, so I slowed down. Interesting results. If I was looking to form huge rust balls, I found a new technique. Looks like I shot it with gravel. Good thing that I am building two of these suckers. Broke out the venerable Badger 200 airbrush (as it came with a bunch of glass bottles) and Badger primer to prime the other kit parts. I have had this air brush for at least 30 years and have never got around to use it. Now is as good a time as any. I think I'll stay with the air brush from now on. Lesson learned. Hopefully an overnight soak in mineral spirits will remove the rattle can efforts.
After cleaning up some minor storm damage, it was time to get back to the build. My delay allowed my gravel painted parts to soak in mineral spirits for 48 hours, then followed by 5 minutes in an ultrasonic leaner. Happily that worked and got rid of the offending paint. While was drying went on to painting the parts form the other kit. My options were to hand paint the primed parts or to hand paint. Figuring the time of cleaning the air brush; hand painting it was. Another lesson learned. It took two afternoons of painting. So much for being quicker.
To paint the wheel and sheaves, one first needed to drill out the axle holes, place the wheel on the axle wire and paint away. After one side is done, let it slip off the axle wire and load the next one. Being 8 of these, it worked slick.
I painted the "steel" parts black. And there are bunch of them. After drying, it was on to cut down the black sheen and add some rust looking stuff. So I used some oil burnt sienna and made a wash. I also used a stiff brush to stipple some of the oil paint and wiped it off a bit for a rusted look. Eventually, it;ll all get some rusty powders.
Once the painting was done and dry, it was finally time to put stuff together. On the two piece towers, I wanted to remove any paint to allow the AC to stick to metal and not paint. Once cleaned, it was glue up time. Then on to check on how the main tower is to go together. Let's see, two sets of sheaves, upper and lower. Hmmm. Something ain't right. I took a closer look at the sheaves and lo and behold, there is a little extra material on one side, but not the other. Been nice if that was mentioned somewhere, but at least I figured it out.
A little bit of touch up a bit here and there, and I'm calling it a night. In person the wash doesn't look as garish as shown in the photos.
Nice job Bob.
Hey Oldguy:
You are moving right along. Looking great so far.
Karl
I Agree Great Job!!!! Dennis
Thanks all.
I still wasn't all that pleased with the"rust" wash. In person, it just looked too garish my tastes. As I was weathering the pit sidewalls with black Pan Pastels, I thought what the heck. I did a little test section on the back of the middle tower, and bingo. I brushed all the washed parts. In the photos below, are before and after shots. (Oh look, I missed a spot)
Now that the pit sides are weathered, I could add the front, bottom, and back pieces. I started with the bottom. I first double check that the rail spacing in the drawing is the same as the rail spacing on the middle tower. Perfect. This is critical as the side rails run down the middle of the casting. I then used a set of dividers to ensure correct width and do the typical score and snap the plastic piece. Sand off the edges and corners to ensure a flat fit. Broke out a 30 year old tube of Goo. (Does this stuff ever go bad?) I glued one side and went to check the clearance for the other side, and ooops. Way too narrow. Hmmm. Okay lets check the drawing again. What the . . . . . The side cutting template has the sides flush with the bottom, but the cross section shows them extending past the casting. Well nerts. At least I used Goo and not CA. So I again got the spacing for the entire needed width and cut a long plastic piece to ensure all sections will be the same width. It was a matter of cutting, filing, and CA each piece on. I'll let the pieces sit overnight and paint the pieces with concrete.
I finally got to the stage that I was dreading, well the first of several. Putting the main tower together. The first photo shows the various parts that make up the unit.
I decided that I need to install the left one first. Upon first go around, it leaned to the left. A lot. Some careful sanding of the bottom, got it vertical. While the glue was setting up, it was time to assemble the piston sheaves. I first glued in the end of the uncut axle and added the sheaves. While that set up, moved back to adding the piston cylinder to the left tower piece. I did measure the cylinder bosses and they were different widths. Off by slightly more than 0.20", but didn't know where to trim, so dry fitted in place and it had a tight fit, so went ahead and glued that in place. A word of caution, the cylinder has an air inlet on one side. That should face to the rear. Then back to the piston sheaves. I cut off the excess axle length, and ground off any excess rod. Then came the question as to what length the piston should be. If fully down the cart would be fully raised. But how far up should it be? I measured the travel of the cart and figured it was close to 40 scale feet. So with 4 sheaves, the piston should travel up about 10 feet for the cart to return to the pit. So I cut it for 10 foot length.
Now onto the right hand side of the tower. There are 2 "bearings" on the inside top of each section. I drilled each fairly deep to give me some wiggle room. Again, I glued in one axle end to the left section. When dried, added the last two sheaves. Did a quick dry fit, eye balled where to cut off the excess and cut off the excess. Putting the right section back into place showed a problem. Not only was it taller, but wanted to slope to the right. No big surprise since I sanded the bottom off the left section. A bunch of sanding, dry fitting, sanding, and dry fitting, until it looked correct. But it wasn't fully contacting the cylinder. Now I knew where the offending boss was located. Some judicious filing and finally I was able to glue in the right section.
I still have a bit of weathering to do on the sheaves and repair paint chips here and there and add the top cap.
Looking down the road, the original kit including some thread for the hoisting cable. And typical for this material, it is really fuzzy. The instruction wants the one to feed one end up through the top cap and tie a knot before going around the sheaves and down to the cart. Hmmm, tie a knot? Not. Unfortunately, my prototype photo does not show this attachment, so I must wing it. I am looking at using some J C Higgins (Sears) casting line. (I'm thinking that it was bought for use on a fly rod) . My first thought was to use a turnbuckle, but they are all too small. Maybe drill out the end of a NBW casting? Nope they are too small as well. I'll have a think overnight and hopefully have it figured out by Noon tomorrow.
You could go to a craft store and check out the various lines/threads they have in the -beading- department. I got some stuff there once that looks a lot like scale steel cable. It'll be strong and not fuzzy.
dave
Very nice job Bob. I actually like the patina on it now. Like Dave said I found some braided wire (very flexible) at Jo-Ann's that reminds me of braided steel cable.
Dave and Curt - sounds like a trip to JoAnn's is in my future.
After my think last night, I had an AHA moment - "Well you dope, you have to install the pit and the rails, before you can add the cable"
I just might also try to give the black casting line a wipe of pewter or tin paint, just to see what it looks like. I mean, I wouldn't want this 50 year line just sit there unused or anything. ;D
I had a chance to stop by JoAnn's and found the beading wire. Bought two types - 7 strand and 21 stand and they do look like wire rope as well as being a lot thinner than the casting line.
My next dreaded stage was cutting out the yard homasote. I had already cut a hole for the original conveyor pit, so it was a matter of figuring out where the 1/2" gatorfoam board would go. As you can see, I have already laid out the service area and the receiving track centers were drawn for the 3 11/16" center lines required by the pit.
Next was to lay everything out. Considering the other SNAFUs that I encountered, it was a matter of measuring, remeasuring, and measure again. There are two 4 foot wide aprons that needed to be located. But before I install the pit, I needed to finish the interior weathering with the black Pan Pastel using my favorite pastel brushes. They are a bit stiff, but not too stiff.
Now it was time to cut the foam. Man that outer layer is tough to cut through. Then it was a matter of using a chisel blade to create the apron slope. Once everything was cut out, time to install the pit. Epoxy was mixed and placed around the pit edges. I added weights to aid in keeping everything level.
Bob,
Great job on the conveyor. All the issues you mention are bringing back old memories of when I did this one. I never built the pit as I found a brass cinder conveyor I used.
Wonderful job and tutorial on the SS Ltd. kit.
Tom ;D
Well, this is an inconvenience. Seems as though I can try to sort out all the little potential gotchas and trying to stay a step or three ahead of them during the build, I overlooked a stick of strip wood, causing the board to sit at an angle.
A lot of the old salty Navy language came flooding back. Okay, take a deep breath. I hoped that I could use a Dremel with a flexible shaft attachment to simply cut away the offending epoxy. (And yes, whenever I can be in the direct path of a cut off disk, I wear a face shield) No joy. I had to completely cut the pit out and remove all traces of the epoxy and start over. I cut out a section of Gatorfoam and painted it a dirt brown. While that was drying, it was on to cutting 6x8 short tie sections. So let's see. According to the instruction, that wood is marked with gold paint. Well, I guess red is close enough. And the white pieces? There to be 10x10 pieces. At least one was. Somebody must of had a bad day when this was packaged. Not really all big of a deal, but still . . .
So I got the wood stained and cut, but couldn't do much with it until the pit is reinstalled. So it was time to take a hard look at the 3 rail beam to carry the service rail over the pit. Well, it makes no sense to have two rails side by side, upside down to support the service rail. So, I found Robertson's original patents online. And no, they are not upside down at all. Further more, there are no extra rails in the kit to make these. Probably just as well as the height needed would depend up on track is being used as tie heights can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I am using ME track and their tie height is 0.73". So, code 70 rail would work. But then I can't even make these until the pit is installed.
Okay, where was I? Oh yeah, installing the pit. Cut new gaterboard, cut new pit hole, and re-epoxied t it.
While that is setting up, it was time for another dreaded task, bending the tram rails. As mentioned before, the older kit came with code 40 rail while the newer kit came with code 55. Since I had some scrap code 55, I'll start with it. One needs to install the pit rails, as things are real tight and adding anything over the pit can cause some major issues in adding the pit rails later.
First up was making a pattern, since eventually there will be 6 rails that will have to be installed. I found a piece of decent looking steel rod and bent it to shape. A lot of bending and fitting, straightening, bending and got it as close as I was going to get. I don't what this rod was made of, but a dremel cut off disk couldn't cut through it. Maybe I should have tried cutting it first? I did manage to lop of the excess using an ancient set of wire cutters.
From that, I made a jig to bend the rail. I found a couple of round things to develop the different curves. It is important to label the jig as to where the rail goes. I found some scrap Code 55 and put it in the jig to bend it to shape. No jy. It kept rolling over, no matter what I did. Then I remembered that I have a bunch of code 55 flex track. The idea was bending a set of rails, held in to the ties would be easier to bend back in itself. Pulled out a stick and went to cut it, and whaaaaa. This is code 40 flex track! So that is where it has been hiding. I knew I had it, but couldn't find it. Thank fully I hadn't sold it at the area meets that I have been trying to off load my excess stuff.
So, I place a cut section vertically in the jig and slowly bent it to the general shape. One that is done, I cut the rail loose from the ties and finished the bends by hand. I got thinking that I need to check how the two towers are going to fit alongside the receiving rails. I had to find the center if the pit and draw perpendicular lines to aid in keeping the towers square with the rails. I also added parallel lines for additional placement aids. Grabbed a hopper and checked clearances. Wow, they are exceptionally tight. Now I need to check to see if I can fudge on their placement.
PS - I previously mentioned that each kit was short air piping elbows. They include 4, but need 7, maybe eight depending on how it is run. I e-mailed SS LTD and they responded that yes, they will sell any casting in any kit, even if it isn't in their catalog.
If anyone hasn't seen code 40 flextrack, below is what it looks like.
Great idea bending flextrack to get your two (parallel) rails!! This has been an interesting build thread, as you work through the difficulties.
dave
Hey Old Guy:
This is coming along nicely and look like lots of work.
karl
Quote from: postalkarl on May 14, 2019, 04:11:43 PM
Hey Old Guy:
This is coming along nicely and look like lots of work.
karl
It has definitely tested my patience.
I had an eye doctor appointment at he VA this morning, so about the only thing I could handle was gluing the main support to the base.
But, I am happy to report that bending the code 40 flex track was a success. I didn't need the template, the ties were too thick to fit it anyway. I have a marble sample disk that was close to the pit curve and a paint bottle that came close to the upper curve. It was a simple matter of using the printed curves as a guide and gently bending the flex track to fit. The molded on ties kept the rail from rolling over.
Yay!!!
dave
Time to put on the big boy pants and install the rails. First up was removing the molded on spikes. I used my sprue cutters to cut of the spike head, a bit more of an issue that I had thought, as I had to cut off both sides. Eventually, the rails came loose. Then it was a matter of insuring the track spacing, especially in the pit. So I measured the distance between the ends, subtracted the rail head width, and an additional 0.01" just of eye ball error. Then using the micrometer tail piece, got the distance, marked it on a piece of 0.02 plastic and cut out a length. I thought I might have to add a handle, but I made it long enough to handle at then end of the pit. I was going to be a bit of an issue just to keep the rail in place to glue it down. Then, I thought, well there is the middle tower and it has pockets for the rail. Just use it as a guide to at least to get everything centered. Well, gall darnit, it also gives me the track spacing! I didn't need to make the gauge after all.
I did a quick coat of initial rust as some sections are going to be hard to get too when installed.
So after a little bit of futzing, I got all the rails glued in place. Then, I glued down the middle tower I'll let everything dry overnight and see what tomorrow brings.
Hey Bob:
It's coming along quite nicely.
Karl
Got a little more work done.
First up was to get the wheels on the "ash wagon". The instructions say to add the wheels and use that to set the rails. Another hmmmmm. Really? Okay, how to set the wheel base. There are two intermediate support pieces and I had already added one and was waiting for the glue to dry when I decided to install the wagon wheels. Oh, Oh, just use the other support as a guide. Note, that the upper right wheel hasn't been glued on as yet.
Then on to the slanty, between the rail thingies. One end sets on a tie and then slopes down 18". The instructions call to make up the side pieces, glue to the flat slopey bits, flip over and add a bunch of 24" ties to the top. Then flip it back over and insert the whole assembly on the pit side. Welp, another issue. The end that slopes down into pit isn't going to be 18" deep. I know the photos are hard to see, but the micrometer shows the needed depth and it just ain't there. But before I get too froggy in cutting anything deeper, I need to assemble the two rail support system to better verify actual versus needed depth.
As I mentioned before, my tie height is 0.73" so code 70 rail would be perfect. So I did a quick set up and yeah. The distance between the the rail heads is 0.088. My code 83 rail base is 0.067 wide. It'll work, but if I am off by just a little, the running rail base could be hanging in the air. Now I see why they wanted the two rail supports to be placed upside down.. Not prototypical, but a lot more wiggle room for any track laying errors. As of this moment, I am thinking of removing part of the base of the joining rails to reduce the span distance of the two heads. If I can get the two heads closer together, and if the running rails are off just a bit, at least it wouldn't be hanging free.
The instructions call to thread the wire rope though the top of the tall tower and . . . tie a knot? ???
I started at the ash car instead. as to the wire rope. I took demery's advise and got some beading wire at JoAnns. I bought 19 strand (flexible) and 47 strand (most flexible). And yes, they do look like galvanized wire rope, albeit with a nylon coating. I decided to use the 47 stand.
It took a bit of time to be able to gather it close to the cart, added a couple of wraps of small thread, and ACC'd it together. To string the cable, I had to first glue the cart in place. Then follow the wrapping diagram, pull the first wrap over the pulley, ACC it place. When dry to down to the next pulley, hold the wire up, ACC it in place, etc. I got real lucky in estimating the length needed as I had just enough to feed it up through the top cap It was also a good thing that I didn't glue it in place as it aided in feeding the wire through it.
I ACC'd the wire that ran through the top cap and when dry used some Hypo cement on the underneath side to hold it permanently. Once it sat overnight I cut off the excess wire and filed it down smooth. Then I added a large NBW casting after cutting off the "bolt" end. A quick oil wash and called it a night.
Looks great Bob.
Hey Bob:
It looks just great.
Karl
Curt and Karl, thanks for the responses.
I guess I need to read the Chopper II instructions again. Massive operator error. I cut several dozen short ties and just about every one of them were of different lengths. I dug out several old razor blade cutters just to shave a bit off the long ones to get them half way the same length.
Then it was on to removing the ties off a length of code 83 track, adding rail joiners, and Pliobond it to the two rail supports and short ties. I did spike down the extreme ends to keep it in place. Then some dabs of medium gel ACC for the remainder. Note - Micro Engineering recommends super glue to hold down their flex track. It was set aside with lengths of marble to hold everything down over night.
The kit includes a good looking air compressor. While I was waiting for the short tie glue to set up, I thought, what the hey, I could add a belt to the compressor. I does have room for two of them. Kind of hard to see the belt, but it is there.
I thought I'd mention some containers that I ran across at JoAnns. I love the Bragdon weathering powders, but hate the tall containers. The containers I found (they have several different sizes) are bigger than a Pan Pastel container and hold an entire Bragdon container's worth of powder. I labeled the side of each one and now can easily apply the material on small parts over it and reduce spillage.
Now it was tome to tackle the air lines.
The instructions has one route the airline from the cylinder to go up and along the left hand cart rail. Well, if my rail exactly followed the rail it could have been easier to get the exact bends in the 0.032" provided wire. As much as I tried, it just wasn't going to happen. So what was plan B?
Looking at the original March 1969 MR article showed the air line being run underground. The same held true for the Frisco prototype photo. So, that will become my plan B. I needed to slightly drill out the 3" elbows. Note to self - on the next one (and yes, I have to build a second one) leave the elbows on the sprue.
Next came on how to mount the wire to the valve. Hmmm, it has little nubbins cast in where the wire is to be glued into place. Well, that ain't happening. I found some small wire and the insulation looks like it might work as some sort of pipe connection. Okay that's solved. He first photo shows what I am working with.
The piping to the right is line from the air compressor. Now what to do with the unit. It doesn't make sense to me on just mounting it in the open. So, I'll build a three door shed to house it out of the elements. Three door meaning the top opens up and there are two swinging doors in front. I'll need to have the top propped up and the doors open to show the compressor inside. The second photo shows a proof of concept using parts from the wood scrap box. Since it is going to be open, I'll need to scratch build the shed using 2x4 framing, two swinging doors with bracing, and a plywood roof covered with tar paper.
Well, this process was halted with tornado sirens going off and need to get back to the house before the monsoon hits.
Between the tornado warnings, loss of electricity due to storms, and generally waiting for the glue to dry, I finally managed some progress.
As I previously mentioned, I decided against running the air line along side the cart rails and to bury it instead, per original article and a prototype photo. The hardest part was getting the elbows to glue to the piping. I was able to use a bit of Hypo cement to basically hold it in place and then apply Bondic to keep it in place.
Then is was a matter of checking clearances. And yep, it was close, but doable.
Then onto the air compressor shack. I just used some scribed siding and added 2x4 framing. First it was a matter of checking to see if it would work and look right, then on to building the little bugger. It will have a tilt up roof and two front swinging doors. As Frisco used to paint auxiliary buildings black, it was a no brainer as to color. As an aside, I just can't imagine having section houses in the lower Midwest and South painted black, but they did. I found an ancient tube of black oil paint from my wife's painting supplies from when she was in high school. And the stuff is still good. I used a stubble brush and scrubbed the oil into the siding, let dry for about 20 minutes, then over coated it with some soot weathering powder.
Next it was adding the compressor and piping that goes out the back. I misjudged the location, so it is off set to the right. I'll eventually add some tools on the left to balance it out. I messed up on getting it set correctly on the first go, and the Pliobond removed the concrete Pan Pastel on the floor. I should mention that except for the black oil paint, it was colored just using Pan Pastels and various weathering powders.
The shed roof underside is shown. The top will be tar paper.
Really nice Bob.
Hey Bob:
It's coming along just great. Can't wait to see it finished.
Karl
Curt and Karl, thank you for the support.
I managed to build the compressor shed doors. I used the left over front side piece and colored it using Pan Pastel Neutral Gray as a base, then scrubbed on Bragdon Dust Bowl brown followed by Old Yeller yellow. I couldn't get the weathering powders to do much on bare wood, hence the grey base coat. I then added the upper and lower rails, then the left and right stiles. I found the center and added the two center stiles. Then the cross pieces were added and when all was dry, cut between the two center pieces to get both doors. The side were colored and then propped up by some fine wire, they were glued onto the front section. As one can see in the photos, I use two different single-edge razor blade tools as my fingers just can't handle the blades by themselves.
After the doors set up overnight, I added the roof. I needed to prop up the building and angle the roof a bit to get the slant that I could live with. Then it was a matter of added the two roof props. I won't set this into the base yet, but one can get a general idea of where it will go.
I finally got my order of extra elbows from SS Ltd so I can add the remaining piping. I also got some Loctite 430. I watch a TrainmastersTV video on adhesives and Pierre Oliver mentioned using the 430 for metal to metal contact. Just what I needed for the pesky elbows. And he was right.
Now I could finish off the valve assembly. And %^^%# it, I see that it is crooked. Oh well. Apparently the railroad plumbers aren't all that good on stationary objects. The last piece to go in is the exhaust pipe. I'll cut off the excess tomorrow.
Six photo limit caught up to me, so this build is pretty much done.
As I mentioned at the beginning of this build, the Robertson conveyor is the first of two structures for this board. The next structure will be converting a Sheepscot conveyor into a Red Devil Coal loader. A quick look as to how it will fit is a bit disconcerting. It is a bit too long. It needs to end at about the end of the left hand ties. Of course, why would anything be all that easy. To be continued . . . . .
Excellent modeling Bob.
Bob,
You've really done a great job on a very "testie" kit. I never got this far on mine.
Well done sir.
Tom ;D