For those of you that frequent the kitforums.com site, you'll remember I started this kit last year. The link to all the trials and tribulations is http://kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9841 After a three month "hiatus" for mostly "work stuff", I've been back at it for the last couple of weeks. I have the roofs finished and trimmed out. It's time to weather the shingles before adding the dormers.
Jeff
Looks great. Glad to see you here!
John
Love this kit...it's in the stash. Following along.
Hi Jeff:
I remember you starting this. Nice job so far. Are you doing the whole diorama?
Karl
Looks great so far Jeff - looking forward to following your progress.
I also have this one on my build list.
Thanks, guys. Karl I plan on building all the structures, I may rearrange them a bit to fit on the layout, but I'll probably keep them together.
I built up the loading docks on their templates and added the surface boards. Cutting the boards so they correspond to the joists.
Jeff
I'm working on the dormer now. The roof on the main building is weathered using mostly black chalk and a drybrushing of the sandstone color. See the contrast with the unweathered dormer roof.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks for posting your build on Modelers Forum. I also have this kit, sitting near the workbench. I have to finish the station for Chester first. Then there is another SRMW kit waiting O.V. Hooker & sons for Chester. Then perhaps I can get to this kit. I have a perfect place for the structure. I removed several plastic structures to utilize this kit. I think it will be perfect.
I hope to see more of your continued build. Keep up the good work and remember we love pics.
Frank / Erieman
Hi Jeff:
Very nice job on the main building so far.
Karl
Looking great! I have this kit and will be adding it to my layout in the future. Thanks for posing all of the progress photos.
Thanks Frank, Karl and Mark. The loading platforms are finished, you're supposed to glue them onto the structure and add the legs after it's on the diorama, so I haven't attached them yet. I used the same Clevermodels tarpaper on the platform roofs. I drill a hole for the supports so they hold on to the structure better. I slip a Grandt Line Nut/washer casting over them and glue them to the siding. Now for the other side.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
I also appreciate you moving or bringing the Meyers & Son build here. It looks great and I'm looking forward to the finished model. It sure looks good! Thanks!
Tom ;D
Hi Jeff:
The platforms look great. I'd probably put the legs and bracing on now. You know how I deviate from the destructions.
Karl
Jeff
The building is looking great!
Enjoying the thread, Jeff. Keep 'em coming.
Hey Dave:
You have to admit Jeff's doing a great job.
Karl
Absolutely!
Hi Dave:
Yep what you said.
Karl
Jeff
Thought about you this week with all the storms in your part of the country. Did you get through them okay?
Thanks, guys, you are too kind. Thanks for the concern, John. Everything is fine here so far, though I had a patient at the office that had a "mini tornado" in his neighborhood in Cedar Rapids. I'm still working on the kit and may post some pics later. Like Karl, I'll probably put the docks on now because I know I'll lose them if I don't. :D
Jeff
Next up are two small entry roofs. You're supposed to tarpaper them, but I like the look of the wood. Probably not prototypical, but they're pretty fragile (this one came off when I put the third board on), and I don't want to fool with tarpapering them. The picture is kinda washed out, it looks better in person.
Jeff
The loading docks are on. According to the instructions, the structure is finished for now. More details will be added and I'll do some more weathering when it's on the diorama. Woo-hoo! 8) The pics are from it's site on the layout. I've started painting the brick building as well. This is the most sustained day I've worked on a structure in a long time. Unfortunately, I won't be doing much more this week, as I have 8 work shifts the next six days. >:(
Jeff
Looking very good!!! Jeff.
Hal
Hi Jeff:
Looks really nice so far.
Karl
Really coming along...you're doing nice work. Looking forward to your next installment after your work binge.
..great looking work Dr. Jeff....I've been watching....
Jeff
The build is looking great. It gives you something to look forward too during all those work shifts. It must be nice to have a job where you know your helping people.
Thanks, guys. I've started the brick building. This is made of resin. The instructions spray painted the brick and then painted the trim. I painted the structure white and then hand painted the brick/trim. I think it's easier this way, plus covering the dark color white would be difficult. Mr. VanGelder used a red brick, I'm using a Terra Cotta. After all, it's a pottery shop. :D I used some Americana craft paint "Terra Cotta". It's pretty thick and covered well. The colors are slightly irregular, with the brush painting. That's OK. It'll look fine after weathering (I hope). The stones were painted grey, it's a little dark. I mixed some Sandstone with some dark grey, maybe I should have used more Sandstone. I'll lighten it up with the mortar and some chalks. The lintels are "aged concrete". I used Folkart "Linen" on the back of the walls, it's close to the aged concrete color. I used a dull #15 Xacto to remove any 'boo-boos' where the colors went where they weren't supposed to. Some painting with a very fine brush is up next. All the non-window white must be covered or it really stands out, as you can see.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
Looks great. Can't to see it finished.
Karl
Nice job Jeff! Superb weathering.
Thanks, Karl. I can't wait to see it finished, either. ;D
Jeff
Thanks, Mike. I'm starting the coal facility. I'm not abandoning the brick structure. I hope to work on both at the same time to speed things up (I've heard THAT before ::) ). You're supposed to take some sticks, cardboard, sheets of scribed siding, and resin bases and make two identical perfect cylinders.
Jeff
My concerns were justified, but ended up OK in the end. First you cut the square supports. I cut them to the height of the siding. I thought I had cut them a little shorter (you have to allow for the thickness of the cardboard top. Install them squarely on the base.
Jeff
Add the top.
Jeff
You then add a piece of "cover stock", paper which is similar to the template paper, there's a sheet included in the kit. This is where I had a problem. I cut it to the height of the siding and it was a bit short. In order to make the cylinder it really needs to attach to the top. I had to tear the top off (I'd used super glue for a couple of the joints) and sand the tops off. I made one of the stripwood braces equal to the height of the siding and the top and sanded each of the four already in place. I then glued on the paper to one of the uprights. The top has to be even, the bottom edge can't go below the bottom of the stripwood, but it doesn't have to be perfectly even.
Jeff
As you can see. ;)
Jeff
The siding pieces are glued abutted to each other. I was worried that this would pull apart while stretching/curving it over the form, but it held. In the instructions, Mr. Van Gelder notes you may have to cut a little bit off to make it fit. Mine was actually short, but hardly enough to notice.
Jeff
The instructions note the seam can be hidden by placement in the middle of the structure. Time to do the second one.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
This is going to be a fantastic looking structure. I'm enjoying the build thread, great job!
Tom ;D
Looking great, Doc!
I would just like to say "We're all counting on You!"(https://modelersforum.com/1-789-3.jpg)
Shirley you jest.
Hi Jeff:
I will be working on this kit off and on as David K. said I should build a SRMW kit as I've never built one. He is sending me his kit. Should arrive soon as it is in the mail. I really kind of like the main building with it's signs.
Karl
Thanks again, guys. Karl, you'll probably finish it before I do, and you don't even have yours yet. ;D The second silo is together. The seam has no gap this time (new one on the right). Working on the roof now.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Nice job on what appears to be a somewhat challenging portion of the build (the silo). This is going to be one fine looking set of structures when you're finished with them. :D
Hi Jeff:
Just face both seams toward each other in the middle of the model. You'll never see them.
Karl
That's the plan, Karl. :) I've started working on the top of the structure. Some pics. The last one shows some of the tools/adhesives used.
Jeff
Jeff,
I've really enjoyed this thread. The build is fantastic and I can't wait to see it in place!
Tom ;D
Thanks, Tom. I can't wait to see it, either. :) Here's the finished roof on the two silos.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
It's looking great. I have one of these to build for Dave.
Karl
Thanks, Karl. I'll be interested to see your thoughts on building an SRMW kit. The present building phase calls for adding "wiring" to the silos. There is thread supplied for this. You glue the thread on with super glue, pull it taut (not too taut or the thread pulls off :-[ ), and glue it on with a slight overlap to simulate a turnbuckle. I've been using a piece of styrene to place the thread 2 scale feet apart. Stagger the joints evenly as well. Then align the thread over the entire length to make it even. This is not the most pleasant part of the build. I wonder if our patron saint of patience, Saint Jaime of Memphis would have enough patience for this task! ;D Also pictured is the conveyor for the silos which is getting worked on.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
I would most likely replace the wire with paper as I like flat metal tank bands. Just to my likings.
Karl
They'd have to be pretty thin, Karl. I think I used paper ones on an FSM water tank once. I may use a thin paper piece on the top as the paper top shows a bit when the roof is on. One of the buggers is finished. I think I'll go mow the lawn, more exciting than doing this. :)
Jeff
Wow, that's a lot of bands on that tank. I know what you mean about it not being a pleasant task. I don't find adding bands to a tank to be all that much fun. Worth the effort, but not fun.
Looking good Jeff!
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 19, 2014, 04:03:37 PM
They'd have to be pretty thin, Karl. I think I used paper ones on an FSM water tank once. I may use a thin paper piece on the top as the paper top shows a bit when the roof is on. One of the buggers is finished. I think I'll go mow the lawn, more exciting than doing this. :)
Jeff
Looking great Jeff - sometimes it helps to get away from it for a little while and the grass does keep growing. :)
Thanks, John. I got eaten alive by the mosquitoes and pesky gnats (are there any other kind? ;D )while mowing. Finished the second one this morning. Not sure how I'll get all the strings "even", then you're supposed to blast it with dullcoat to seal them in place. We'll see.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 20, 2014, 12:46:30 PM
Thanks, John. I got eaten alive by the mosquitoes and pesky gnats (are there any other kind? ;D )while mowing. Finished the second one this morning. Not sure how I'll get all the strings "even", then you're supposed to blast it with dullcoat to seal them in place. We'll see.
Jeff
Jeff
We went through the mosquitoes and gnats here in Michigan - now its the deer flies that leave a nice hole in you. I swell up from their bites.
I copied this picture from the Micro Mart catalog it is called a Tool Makers Surface Gauge. This is the way I get things level on a model like this. I use the scribe as a guide and work my way around the water tank in this case. It sure helps me with this very difficult task.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200714201743.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200714201743.jpeg)
Another thought on the rings is that I would start at the bottom - get about one third of them straight and hit them with the dull coat. Then repeat the process so I wasn't messing up the ones on the bottom as I aligned the ones on top. I'm already thinking about my build of this kit - thanks for the build thread to get me started on the thought process.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 20, 2014, 08:13:29 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 20, 2014, 12:46:30 PM
Thanks, John. I got eaten alive by the mosquitoes and pesky gnats (are there any other kind? ;D )while mowing. Finished the second one this morning. Not sure how I'll get all the strings "even", then you're supposed to blast it with dullcoat to seal them in place. We'll see. Jeff
We went through the mosquitoes and gnats here in Michigan - now its the deer flies that leave a nice hole in you. I swell up from their bites.
Enough about them pesky gnats!
Oh, ya'll are referring to them pesky little bugs (or maybe me!) 8) 8) 8)
No slack for them deer flies, though!!
My username refers to the 1987 Buick Grand National - my favorite car!!!
I still have two sittin' in the shop - a '87 GN and a '87 white Turbo T-Type - give me time to charge the batteries and I'll still
give anyone a run for their money! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on July 20, 2014, 08:53:47 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 20, 2014, 08:13:29 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 20, 2014, 12:46:30 PM
Thanks, John. I got eaten alive by the mosquitoes and pesky gnats (are there any other kind? ;D )while mowing. Finished the second one this morning. Not sure how I'll get all the strings "even", then you're supposed to blast it with dullcoat to seal them in place. We'll see. Jeff
We went through the mosquitoes and gnats here in Michigan - now its the deer flies that leave a nice hole in you. I swell up from their bites.
Enough about them pesky gnats!
Oh, ya'll are referring to them pesky little bugs (or maybe me!) 8) 8) 8)
No slack for them deer flies, though!!
My username refers to the 1987 Buick Grand National - my favorite car!!!
I still have two sittin' in the shop - a '87 GN and a '87 white Turbo T-Type - give me time to charge the batteries and I'll still
give anyone a run for their money! ;D ;D ;D
Interesting Gnat - I was working at GM when we came out with that car. Still have problems with my neck from when the turbo kicked in on the test drives. I had some real fun with that car on the test track. Okay Jeff needs his thread back.
Hi Dave:
Yeah the paperbands are thin. I forget the width I'd have to check it out. I use 3m 465 tape to attach them.
Karl
John, the Micro Mark tool looks interesting, I'll probably have to get one. :D I tried using a comb to align them, but all I had was a plastic one and it didn't work very well. I put the silo on my lazy susan I use for airbrushing and basically spun it and moved the threads with my fingers. I think it looks okay, not perfect.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 25, 2014, 10:03:58 AM
John, the Micro Mark tool looks interesting, I'll probably have to get one. :D I tried using a comb to align them, but all I had was a plastic one and it didn't work very well. I put the silo on my lazy susan I use for airbrushing and basically spun it and moved the threads with my fingers. I think it looks okay, not perfect.
Jeff
Jeff
I think they look good. I have never seen them perfectly straight in the prototypical world. It's all about having the right tool for the job - I think a Doctors fingers are better than an Engineers for this job. ;D The build is looking great.
I'm back to the brick structure since I have the attention span of a gnat. Maybe more than some Gnats. ;D The mortar on the stones is thinned white paint. I then put a dilute A&I wash over everything. The instructions note to use white chalk for the mortar. Clear some of it off with a damp towel, apply more where you need, etc. Used a bit of a dark brown and a tiny amount of rust to vary the brick colors as well. I hadn't done it this way before and think it looks OK. Maybe faded the bricks a little more than I'd like. I'll let it sit a couple of days and decide if I want to drybrush over the bricks a tiny bit to bring back the color more.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on August 04, 2014, 10:09:26 PM
I have the attention span of a gnat. Maybe more than some Gnats. ;D Jeff
Hmmpphh! Gnats have a great attention span! They'll keep buzzin' around your face and
distractin' you forever! ;D ;D ;D ;D
If you have this problem, take affirmative action:
Jeff,
Great looking job. You have done a great job on the silo's. Those bands can be very tedious. Thanks for sharing.
:) :) :) :) :)
Thanks, Bart. I've got one half of the windows done in the brick building. Of course I couldn't find the window material ::) . I used some mylar I have from the art store instead. I found that even though it was sealed with pastel sealer, I was able to gently use a wet finger over the bricks to remove some of the white, so I didn't need to drybrush the bricks to bring the color back. Then there's the parts to finish off the roof/celestory.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
Looks good. You should try Onetime Spackle (Lightweight Stuff) for your mortar on your next model. I think you will really like it. Not to mention the time you will save.
Karl
Hi, Karl.
I have some Spackle here for the next brick project. I wanted to try the chalk since it was new to me. It's OK. To put the roof on there are cardboard cutouts to place inside the end walls. I put the roof on to adjust the height for these while gluing them in. I braced the roof (though the instructions don't mention to). Then built the clerestory, again there are cardboard cutouts for the ends to build around. I braced the pieces as they tended to warp (the size is overkill, but it's the only size I had). Finally added the tarpaper/parapet caps. The instructions say to put the tarpaper on the parapets as well, but I think it looks funny and I have very little of the tarpaper left. I need to add the signs and a entrance roof next.
Jeff
Looks great Jeff!
Thanks, John. The entrance roof and signs are on. This one is done for now. Tar for the roof and some roof details will go on later. Now to get back to the coal silos building.
Jeff
Hi Jeff:
The brick structure looks great.
Karl
Jeff,
"Ditto" to all the other comments. It's looking real good!
Tom ;D
Jeff,
Great job on the build of H.W. Meyer & Son. Mine is still in the box, but is on the project list for early next year. Your build will make a great reference tool.
The next time you need to do the brick work, may i suggest something else for the mortar. I have been using this technique on several of the SRMW buildings with great success. Try a mixture of drywall mud. This will take some experimentation to determine how much water, so find an extra piece or back wall. I mix drywall mud, some medium grey acrylic paint ( just a small amount) and water together. It should be mostly water. Apply it on the plaster surface with a brush and let dry. Care needs to be taken in wiping to make sure you do not remove the mortar between the bricks. Wipe with a dry white towel to remove the drywall film and you will have a beautiful mortar job. I also use some chalk on my finger to weather the lower part of the building to add some weathering. hope this works for you. I know it sounds weird, but it works. If you want to see a coupl of pictures let me know and I'll take them and post them.
Frank / Erieman
Frank / Erieman
Thanks for the kind words, Karl, Tom and Frank. Frank your idea is similar to the spackle, but being able to thin it with water makes it sound more "forgiving". I actually usually use Robert's Mortar for brickwork, but again, I wanted to try something different. I'm now experimenting with how the structures will be on the layout itself. Note the most important layout construction tool, the green bottle. ;D The structure needs to block the hole where the layout leaves the room. It does a pretty good job as shown in the last pic where the "operator" usually stands.
Jeff
I should add that the large area, where the Diet Dew bottle is will be a somewhat "wrong side of the tracks" downtown area. I had originally planned to have 4 inches of styrofoam here so I could leave the base on and drop dioramas where I wanted them (like the Bailey's Produce on the left). The town area will be slightly higher and built on Gatorfoam pieces like a jigsaw puzzle, as I'll have to reach over to this section (the whole area is 46 inches deep. I'll need one or two "pop outs" for this. It then seemed like a waste of styrofoam, so I added spacers on the joists to raise it to the track level. I may just build the Myers' "diorama" in place, as it's right at the front of the layout. For now, I'm just moving the structures around to see how they fit, how the cars on the sidings work, etc.
Jeff
Jeff,
I have attached a couple of photos of a SRMW structure where I have used drywall mud. Thought that you might want to see what it looks like. One photo has not weathering ( as of yet) and the other is heavily weathered/
Frank / Erieman
Looks good, Frank. I'll have to try it. I've been rearranging buildings and moving trains around on the layout today. Got some of the "shelf orphans" out to start laying out the town. I built a placeholder out of DPM sheets to block the opening. It does a pretty good job of it. Now there's only one slight angle where the hole in the wall is visible. Even less so when the Decker's kit is raised an inch or so. A gas station will probably go on either side of the "road" where the Pottery building is or on the other side (more likely). Will let this sit a few days and see how I like it.
Jeff
Jeff
Your off to a great start - I also like to look at things for awhile before final placement.
Been enjoying your thread...that's going to be a nice town scene.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on August 23, 2014, 03:57:00 PM
Looks good, Frank. I'll have to try it. I've been rearranging buildings and moving trains around on the layout today. Got some of the "shelf orphans" out to start laying out the town. I built a placeholder out of DPM sheets to block the opening. It does a pretty good job of it. Now there's only one slight angle where the hole in the wall is visible. Even less so when the Decker's kit is raised an inch or so. A gas station will probably go on either side of the "road" where the Pottery building is or on the other side (more likely). Will let this sit a few days and see how I like it.
Jeff
Jeff,
Great looking build. I have been watching your build and building arrangement on the layout. pardon my comments, but may I suggest you look at putting the large main building and the coal towers behind the track and have a service track between the main line and the structures. This way you will see the beautiful buildings and the train at the same time. It will also make it easier to get access to the track. With the building in front, you have to reach around and that is when the "oh shits" occur. Somebody is bound to put a hand in the wrong place inadvertently. The tunnel portal can be hidden by a lot of trees in the foreground. I have made these mistakes and want to share the potential problems. With the large buildings in the back of the track, you and your guests will see all the beautiful buildings and trains and you will be free of potential damage.
Frank / Erieman
Hi Jeff:
looking great. Can't wait to see some scenery.
Karl
Thanks Frank and Karl. Frank, the object of the structure is to block the vision of the curve. It's only a 30 inch radius curve (versus 48 on most of my other visible curves), so I'm trying to hide it. I think I'll make it removable if I need to reach the track for cleaning. Karl, the scenery will have to wait. I'm going to build the next section of the layout in the other room first.
Jeff