Hey Der Folks,
Wish me luck, on my first Craftsman Kit build. It'll be slow going I'm sure, but I will post updates has I work on the kit. I do plan on setting the completed kit on a small diorama.
Toi toi toi , pronounced toy, is our way of wishing someone luck, will be following along.
Jump right in.....we'll all enjoy your maiden voyage. :) .....and don.t forget the photos. ;D
Everyone starts with a first one. Jump right in.
So, a couple suggestions. If you sign your first name we can refer to you that way.
Second, be as precise as possible when gluing the bracing in place. Doug makes it look easy in the video, probably from having done it so many times. Recognize that the bracing is not always cut square and that the width can vary between pieces as well as from side to side. The pieces inset from the ends for the width of the bracing can make or break how well the walls fit together.
This is a great group and many will step up should you have questions.
Welcome to the addiction. As others have said, be sure to reach out along the way if you like. People here have a wealth of experience. I surely have appreciated being able to tap into it.
Good choice for a starter..........
I'm in for the ride ! !
see ya
Bob
Hey Wig Wag:
Good luck with your first build. I'l be following along.
Karl
Quote from: jerryrbeach on May 31, 2020, 08:11:43 PM
So, a couple suggestions. If you sign your first name we can refer to you that way.
Second, be as precise as possible when gluing the bracing in place. Doug makes it look easy in the video, probably from having done it so many times. Recognize that the bracing is not always cut square and that the width can vary between pieces as well as from side to side. The pieces inset from the ends for the width of the bracing can make or break how well the walls fit together.
This is a great group and many will step up should you have questions.
Thank You for the tips on the bracing Jerry, I did notice that on some walls, you don't glue them right on the edge, but have to indent the width of the wood strip.
-Steven
Thank you all for the encouragement, it's greatly appreciated. I am currently experimenting with colors on some scrap pieces, so far so good.
-Steven
Hi Steven. I'll be following along as well. Enjoy the journey! :) Warning - it can become quite addictive. ;D
Steven,
Getting started on the first kit is exciting. So, enjoy the journey and if you have any questions just ask, we are here to help each other.
I'm not addicted like the others, I only have a couple hundred unbuilt kits.
Oh, and yes, I'm with you on this one as well.
Tom ;D
Good luck with the build and I will be following along. As Tom said, please ask questions.
Have fun with the build! I'll be checking in as well.
Hey All:
I'm still watching with interest. Always like to see someone's first build.
Karl
Karl
Started to cut out the pieces, and lightly sand the sides. I am using the "scrap" pieces to experiment a bit, seeing how the wall pieces come together with bracing, also going to test my wash, and try lifting some of the board siding before moving on to the actual kit.
Steven Welcome!
Not to long ago I was the 'new' guy wondering if I should say something or just watch and see how others made their models. Obviously I did say something and am glad I did. This is a great forum (I know I've looked at them all) because it has a great group of folks keeping it going. If you found this forum because it says to check it out on the box of J. Keen Supplies, then double welcome. That is the kit, and the way I found this group. I did build J. Keen, but not for about a year after I started modeling and found this forum. It is a fun kit and I look forward to seeing your progress. Like the others have said, any questions ask, lots of smart people in the group (they let me stay out of pity I think).
Again Welcome!
Jim D
Hey Wig Wag:
Glad to see you are getting started.
Karl
Quote from: Jim Donovan on June 03, 2020, 09:18:09 PM
Steven Welcome!
Not to long ago I was the 'new' guy wondering if I should say something or just watch and see how others made their models. Obviously I did say something and am glad I did. This is a great forum (I know I've looked at them all) because it has a great group of folks keeping it going. If you found this forum because it says to check it out on the box of J. Keen Supplies, then double welcome. That is the kit, and the way I found this group. I did build J. Keen, but not for about a year after I started modeling and found this forum. It is a fun kit and I look forward to seeing your progress. Like the others have said, any questions ask, lots of smart people in the group (they let me stay out of pity I think).
Again Welcome!
Jim D
Thank You for the guidance, it's always appreciated. I actually joined this great forum back in 2013, but kinda forgot about it for awhile, has I was focused on woodworking stuff. Great group of folks here, ton's of inspiration, and ideas shared.
-Steven
HI Steven,
I'm a little late to the party, but excited to be here and watching over your shoulder. Good luck and enjoy the build.
--Opa George
Hey Der Folks,
Completed the bracing pieces, and did a "test fit". I surprised myself that all the corners match up nicely (just had to do a tad bit of sanding). One thing I did notice is that some of the bracing isn't exactly square, glad I noticed it and was able to adjust. Next up, A&I wash, and paint.
Question: Has anyone used an airbrush for painting the kit? How does it compare to brushing? I am using Badger Model Flex Antique White. I also have Folk Art Vintage White.
-Steven
Steven,
A belated welcome.
When you've got some time, check the YouTube series from Jason Jenson, particularly the early ones. A lot of good kit building advice from an art trained constructer. One trick he taught early on was before you cut your bracing, flex it on each side. When you find the side that bends the least, mark it with a pencil and make sure that side is always facing you when you glue down your cut piece. It's hard to describe the process without seeing it, but the point is all bracing will flex: the degree of flex varies from surface to surface according to the grain in the wood which we probably can never see.
Build on.
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 05, 2020, 03:00:51 PM
Steven,
A belated welcome.
When you've got some time, check the YouTube series from Jason Jenson, particularly the early ones. A lot of good kit building advice from an art trained constructer. One trick he taught early on was before you cut your bracing, flex it on each side. When you find the side that bends the least, mark it with a pencil and make sure that side is always facing you when you glue down your cut piece. It's hard to describe the process without seeing it, but the point is all bracing will flex: the degree of flex varies from surface to surface according to the grain in the wood which we probably can never see.
Build on.
I binged watched a bunch of his videos, I seen that one, that's how I noticed the bracing wasn't square. He is an awesome modeler, and his videos are top notch, I learned so much from him. Hope all is well with you and yours
-Steven
Steven,
Welcome to the Forum ... take your time and you will have a great kit to admire ...
Tommy
Her Der Folks!
Added the A&I wash to the main structure. Next up, I will be adding the main color, and also paint the trim, windows, and doors. Not sure if my wash is too dark (it looks darker in the picture than in person). I plan on doing Antique White on the main structure, with POLLY Scale C&NW Green for the trim, windows, and door trim.
-Steven
Great kit to start with!
Steven,
Since the purpose of the wash is to ensure no bare wood peeks through the paint it doesn't really matter how dark it is. IMO the real question is , "How white do I want the siding to be?" The darker wash allows you to use a thin coat of paint to get a worn paint look quite easily. I'll be watching to see where you go from here.
Hey Steven:
I use three different washes. I use 16Oz of Alcohol from Wallgreens. 1 Tsp, 2 Tsp and 3 Tsp of black India Ink. I mostly use the 3 tsp mix which is about as dark as what you used. I then Either paint the walls with full strength paint or dry-brush them.
Karl
I'm new to the kit building world myself, and I can certainly say that you're doing a great job so far.
Quote from: administrator on June 09, 2020, 11:38:35 AM
Great kit to start with!
So says the proud papa.....great progress Steven. 8)
Hey Der Folks!
I airbrushed the walls with Antique White today. Next step, I will be adding the sign, doing some highlights, and add some weathering. Then, I will be moving on to the trim, windows and doors.
-Steven
Looks good Steven.
Walls look good.
Jeff
Great start Steven. ;)
Looking very good so far, Steven.
--Opa George
Steven,
I agree with the others, great start and the walls look good.
Tom ;D
Hey Steven:
The walls look just great.
Karl
Looks like a great start Steven.
Hey Steven:
I've never seen that brand of paint. What is it and where did you get it?
Thanks Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on June 16, 2020, 05:00:42 PM
Hey Steven:
I've never seen that brand of paint. What is it and where did you get it?
Thanks Karl
Hi Karl,
It's
BADGER Modelflex Railroad Airbrush Paint - Scenery and Structures Colors, I believe I purchased from Amazon. Not sure if I really like them yet, I purchased a few years ago when I was working on my first "test" layout and have not used them much.-Steven
Hey Der Folks,
Update on the build coming soon, I had a mishap painting the plastic windows and doors. I tried brush painting, instead of airbrushing them, and I didn't like the result. I tried to "clean" the parts, but the thin window dividers broke, and I couldn't get all the paint removed. This should have been the easy part of the build, has I build many plastic scale model kits. I ordered replacement parts from Tichy, and they just arrived.
On a side note: I emailed Railroad Kits to ask them for part numbers, and Jimmy replied back in less than a 1/2 hour with the part numbers. Now that is excellent Customer Service!
-Steven
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on June 17, 2020, 08:01:42 AM
On a side note: I emailed Railroad Kits to ask them for part numbers, and Jimmy replied back in less than a 1/2 hour with the part numbers. Now that is excellent Customer Service!
-Steven
That is my experience, too. Jimmy is a true gentleman craftsman supplier.
Hey Steven:
Thanks for the info on the paint.
Karl
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on June 17, 2020, 08:01:42 AM
Hey Der Folks,
Update on the build coming soon, I had a mishap painting the plastic windows and doors. I tried brush painting, instead of airbrushing them, and I didn't like the result. I tried to "clean" the parts, but the thin window dividers broke, and I couldn't get all the paint removed. This should have been the easy part of the build, has I build many plastic scale model kits. I ordered replacement parts from Tichy, and they just arrived.
On a side note: I emailed Railroad Kits to ask them for part numbers, and Jimmy replied back in less than a 1/2 hour with the part numbers. Now that is excellent Customer Service!
-Steven
Steven,
I believe we've all broken a window mullion or two in the past. When I do, I just remove the other ones and make that window a single pane glass window. No rule that says you have to have the same ones that come with the kit. Just FYI for future "mishaps".
Tom ;D
Steven,
I believe we've all broken a window mullion or two in the past. When I do, I just remove the other ones and make that window a single pane glass window. No rule that says you have to have the same ones that come with the kit. Just FYI for future "mishaps".
Tom ;D
That's a great idea! First thing I thought was to just pitch them into the circular file. But then, I thought I would save them to add to a "junk" pile on diorama.
-Steven
Hey Der Folks,
I added the Windows, Doors. and Signs, next up I will be adding a few more signs and (the part I am dreading most) doing the weathering. When it comes to weathering, I understand less is more, and to work in multiple layers.
-Steven
Very nice.
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on June 21, 2020, 11:38:48 AMWhen it comes to weathering, I understand less is more, and to work in multiple layers.
It sounds like you're ahead of the game Steven! That comment is spot on. :) The walls look great.
That is looking very good, Steven.
Don't fear the weathering, but do respect it. I've made mistakes and still do (plenty of them) but there are ways to mitigate and disguise it. I don't think I've ever ruined a building with it.
--Opa George
Hey Der Folks!
Well, I started on the weathering, can't say I am completely happy with the results. Please understand that this is my first attempt, and I knew I would not get the best results. The key thing is, I am learning a lot, and I am having FUN!! I been taking notes on what is working, and what is not working. I do plan on continuing with some subtle layers, and try fixing some of the details I am not happy with. Next up, I will be adding the window and door "glass", assemble the walls. and add the roof.
-Steven
It looks good Steve.
Steve,
Nice job on the weathering for the first time you've tried it.
Is it just me, or did Jimmy D. cut the walls upside down.
Tom ;D
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on June 24, 2020, 12:21:43 PMThe key thing is, I am learning a lot, and I am having FUN!!
You have this down pat now Steven. ;D That's the number one rule. And if it's not, it should be. ;)
Great job for a first time attempt. It's very easy to overdo weathering on a white, or lighter colored structure, and you did a great job avoiding that trap. :D
Steven,
That is so much better than my first attempt. It certainly would pass as a building in or on the fringe of an industrial area. Maybe I should have said this sooner, but I find using weathering powders shown in your earlier photo to be much more difficult than using simple chalks. The chalks don't adhere as well, thus make it easier to be more subtle. I use the powders for "special effects', like rusting a stove pipe or similar. I use more chalks for general weathering because I find the result easier to control. That said, I often use the structure color over the weathering to soften anything I think is too much. If that is why you are not completely satisfied, I suggest using some white to tone down the weathering. Dullcoat also "softens" the look, and can be used for both that, sealing the powders in place, and to add "tooth" to make additional weathering adhere better. HTH.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on June 26, 2020, 08:13:31 AM
Steven,
That is so much better than my first attempt. It certainly would pass as a building in or on the fringe of an industrial area. Maybe I should have said this sooner, but I find using weathering powders shown in your earlier photo to be much more difficult than using simple chalks. The chalks don't adhere as well, thus make it easier to be more subtle. I use the powders for "special effects', like rusting a stove pipe or similar. I use more chalks for general weathering because I find the result easier to control. That said, I often use the structure color over the weathering to soften anything I think is too much. If that is why you are not completely satisfied, I suggest using some white to tone down the weathering. Dullcoat also "softens" the look, and can be used for both that, sealing the powders in place, and to add "tooth" to make additional weathering adhere better. HTH.
Hi Jerry, thank you for the tips on using chalks, I am going to order some for my next build. These weathering powders have a "built in" adhesive, and once they are on, it's difficult to remove. Any particular brand of chalks you like to use? I heard Rembrandt are pretty good, but I am wondering if the ones from Hobby Lobby would work.
-Steven
Steven,
I have an inexpensive set of just general colors that I bought many years ago. IIRC I paid less than $10 at either Walmart or one of the craft stores. I have a smaller set of earth tones my friend Jim gave me, similar sets are available at the craft stores. I do have a few Rembrandt chalk sticks. I bought mine from Dick Blick. I use the cheap chalks for almost everything. The Rembrandt colors are mostly wood tones not available in the cheap sets. Brett Gallant (Sierra West) has a recommended list for basic colors and I purchased a few from that list. The Rembrandt chalks are definitely nicer to work with but do require a pretty significant investment if you want a full pallet of colors.
I work over a manila folder, scraping the chalk from the sticks using an Xacto blade pulled sideways across the stick. When I am done I push any unused chalk toward the center of the folder, close it and stick it on a shelf. The unused chalks tend toward browns, tans, and grays. I find the leftovers work well to give my vehicles a nice dusty dirt road look. And, the cleanup is really easy.
I use makeup brushes to apply my chalks. My friend Jim gave me a set that had various sizes. Some are fairly soft, others somewhat stiff. I use the smaller stiffer ones for streaks, the larger softer for blending. Prior to his gift I used some paint brushes but I find these work better for me. Again, HTH
For applying chalks or pigments (or Pan Pastels) over a wide surface, try wedge shaped make-up sponges. That's what I use most of the time.
dave
Steven,
Good weathering effects. You may be surprised how natural they start to look to your eye once you start to "zip up" the kit.
On chalks, I am still using a set I purchased in the 1970s or very early 1980s (!) for very little money, from a craft store. They are large sticks that last forever. Below is a pic, and you can see how worn and ratty the original box is. The variety assortment has a few colors too bright for weathering, but the earth tones, the grays and blacks, are good for structures and the blues/greens are good for rockwork, so I use three-quarters of them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-191118204751.jpeg)
Note, I call them chalks, because they have that appearance to me and they produce a very fine chalk-like powder, but a trained artist may be able to identify them as a different medium. Either way, they work well.
--Opa George
Hey Der Folks!
I assembled the building, and started on the roof. Unfortunately, I made a mistake on the rolled roofing and had to re-do it, so now I don't have enough for the overhang and attached structure. It's OK though, has I planned on using a different material for them. NOTE: I didn't attach the side structure yet, has I have to install the foundation first. Next up, I am going to work on the roofing, and install the overhang.
-Steven
Hey Wig Wag:
Its just paper. Use 81/2" X 11 white paper cut new roofing and paint it. Building looks great.
Karl
Hey Der Folks!
I added the 2 foundations, and "mocked-up" the loading dock. There were a few blunders, but a great learning experience. I did notice I am missing the side vent castings, I emailed Jimmy, and he said he will be sending them out. Next up, add the dock doors, add the overhang, and tidy-up some of the weathering and details like permanently attaching the loading dock, and side building. Only negative so far is, the kit instructions (both sets) on the website are incomplete, but luckily I have the DVD.
-Steven
Nice job, Steven. Especially good job on the "painted on" side on the side of the building.
Hey Steven:
Looks great so far. As you continue to build you techniques will get better as time goes by. A they say practice make perfect.
Karl
Hey Der Folks!
I added the dock doors, added the roof to the side structure, and trimmed the main roof overhang. I felt there was too much and it didn't look right to me. Next up, add the dock overhang, attach the side structure, tidy up the weathering some more, and start work on the casting I do have. I am still waiting (I understand Jimmy is super busy, and I am ok with that) for the missing castings.
-Steven
Very nice Steven.
Steven,
I'm glad you cut the roofing back shorter, looks much better now.
I'd suggest you add a piece of trim, maybe a 4x4, where the addition meets the main building. This is something overlooked by many kit manufacturers and when added really helps the overall look of the structure.
Good call with the roofing Steven..... 8)
I know some kit manufacturers call for the roll roofing to be done that way and I've even seen a photo of it done in the real world that someone posted on the this forum not too long ago, so it obviously has been done.
My only concern is that when doing a roof with the felt hanging over the edge is that in the real world, a strong wind could get under the felt and peel it right off the wood sheathing.
The link is to a youtube video of a guy installing a 30# felt underlayment on plywood sheathing on a very shaky roof mock-up. It isn't correct in some aspects of laps and nailing patterns, but it will give you an idea of how it is really done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VJlgFT_Z_E
Thank you for the feedback on the roof Jerry and Gregory, much appreciated. I was thinking of adding trim to the addition, but I need to order some 4x4 and other assorted scale lumber, as well as some clapboard siding so I can try some scratch building/kit bashing.
-Steven
I added the overhang, and support wires (not really happy with how that turned out) but I am hoping I will be able to "clean" it up when I do the final weathering. I also permanently attached the porch and side building. Next up, I am going to do some MAJOR "tiding up" of the entire model with some touch-up paint, and weathering chalks. Then add the roof castings, and weather the roof.
-Steven
I'd say you did fantastic for first out of the box. Great Job.
Jim D.
Steven,
I struggled with support wires until I tried drilling holes in both the wall and the roof. Then I bend the angle on one end and insert the wire into the wall. That gives me a fairly good idea where to make the angled bend where the wire goes through the roof. After that, it is trial and error. If your holes are placed accurately, once you get one wire to fit, the remaining supports are easy. Also, I cut the ends of the wires to about 1/16" long from the angle bend, about the thickness of the wall, and slightly longer than the thickness of the roof card. HTH,
Those wire roof supports are probably one of my least favorite features to add to a build. Like Jerry I drill a hole in the wall. Sometimes I drill one in the roof too. It's hard to get just a little 'pitch' round where the wire goes into the wall. For pitch I use a mixture of Elmer's White Glue and Polly Scale Grimy Black. If I get too much on I scrape some of it off with the tip of an X-Acto knife.
A little reminiscing - early FSM kits recommended a mix of two part 5-minutes epoxy and a drop of Floquil Grimy Black for pitch. After it dried paint it with Floquil Flat Finish. White Glue and Polly Scale Grimy Black are a whole lot easier to work with. I keep a small bottle with a needle tip dispenser on my workbench for when I need it. ;)
Thank You Jerry and Bob for the advise on the wires, I have added this knowledge to my notes for the next build I need to use them. I was thinking of using support timber, instead of wires, so maybe that is something I can try on a future build.
-Steven
I did some minor changes, like painting the roof (I didn't like the whitish color). Also did a few touch-ups, still have a lot more I want to do, to bring this build to completion. I will be doing a small diorama after I get the kit completed.
-Steven
Steven:
Looks good. Any idea on what is next?
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on July 15, 2020, 06:35:18 PM
Steven:
Looks good. Any idea on what is next?
Karl
Has far as this kit, "tidy" up the weathering when my chalks arrive, and maybe set it in a small diorama, like shown in the DVD. Not sure on my next kit, all I have in the stash is Wolf's Gas and Oil, and Foley Hookers Towing. I do have Gleason Garage ordered, but that will be for a future build, after I build a few more kits. I will be asking for suggestions, in a separate thread soon.
-Steven
Hey Steven:
sounds good I will be following along.
Karl
Steven,
Very nice results on J. Keen Supplies. You should be feeling much more confident now--you accomplished a really fine build.
--Opa George
Hey Der Folks!
So, I started doing some weather, using some chalks. Not really happy so far, BUT, I am having fun, and learning a lot. Please keep in mind, this my first kit, and this has been a learning process. I am about ready to wrap this one up (other than making a small diorama) has that will also be a learning experience. I have started a few dioramas, has well as I 4 x 8 layout at one time, but never finished them. This is an awesome hobby, and I appreciate all the feedback, it really helps and inspires me to keep going. It's ok to give me critiques on my work, because it will help me on future builds. I have been taking a lot of notes, and saving pictures of stuff you fine folks have posted.
-Steven
FINE job for a first build Steven!
You'll find posting pictures on the forum very useful. Things stand out in the pictures that, for some reason, you just don't notice while the structure is sitting in front of you on the workbench.
I rarely am happy with something I just finished. But I find when I go back and look at it a few months later I usually like it. I don't know why that is. Maybe because it's usually planted on someone's layout with beautiful scenery, engines and rolling stock around it. ;D
Nice work, Steven.
This kit came out really nicely. I'll be watching out for your next one. Jason Jensen has a new youtube video where he talks about some simple kit bashing. Not as frightening as it sounds - its really just combining a couple of kits together in some interesting way. Might be worth taking a look at? Its a great area to get into in and of itself, as well as a stepping stone to scratch-building, and a great way to get a truly unique looking structure.
I couldn't find the video I watched the other day but here is one to take a look at.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvY_gs2aNC4&list=PLo8lQYTKD12ofzTUFjz8ESyPprFsV6Dgz&index=5
Jason has a heap of good information on his channel which he is offering to everyone.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey Steven:
As Bob B said very well done for you first try. Have any idea what's next? Let us know ok.
Karl
Great Job Steven , well done.
Damn, I wish that my first craftsman kit had looked that good. Wonderful job! What are you planning on working on next?
;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on August 23, 2020, 11:23:28 AM
Damn, I wish that my first craftsman kit had looked that good. Wonderful job! What are you planning on working on next?
;D ;D ;D
I appreciate the kind words, I have started a build thread of my 2nd build, Foley Towing. It's a experimental build, where I am trying out different techniques.
-Steven
I appreciate the kind feedback all! I am having a blast build these craftsman kits, and I appreciate everyone that shares their builds.
-Steven
Steven,
You've done a great job for your very first build, well done.
Tom ;D
Well done Steven..... 8)
Good job on your first build Steven.
Doug