The Modeler's Forum

I had looked for a long time, trying to find a gallows turntable in kit form for the HWCRR.  For one very large reason, they don't exist.  Not to mention the size I was wanting.  Neither does the spider assembly that it rides on.   So....
Break out the paper the tools, glue, wood, cardstock, plastic and lots of patience.

The spider assembly is my design and engineering ability in total  It is also fully functional.  Another part of the table that was designed by myself and  fully functional, is the locking mechanism on either end of the table.  This is, of course, something one can add or not.  The table operation does not depend upon its even being there, but, I had to prove to myself I could build it as a working locking mechanism.   The turntable itself, is a general design of a gallows turntable.  It was gleaned from pictures and other info I could get from the internet.

Here are some pics of what will be built in this thread.

The first part of this build thread, will be making the fully functional spider assembly.
The second part will be to build the table proper.
The third will be to make the locking mechanisms.  This is last because as I said earlier, they can be added or not.  It is entirely up to the decision you make.

This is where it is supposed to end up.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-190614114722.jpeg)

Enjoy!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle, Wa

What a great way to start - I will be following along.

This is an awesome Gallows Turntable!
You've already been accepted in the 'Ledbetter's Hall of Fame' for build it with what you've got!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Looks great.

Rusty


I scratch built two gallows turn tables about 25 years ago. I gave one recently to another modeler. I used an old RCA quarter inch ear phone have and receptical to center it get power up into the rails.  One wire wind up.

See ya
Bob

Hi:

Very cool. Lots of nice detail. Keep the photos coming.

Karl

bob that would fit nice on my layout. I my have to start planing one

That model looks great no matter where you look. beautiful work.

Guten Morgan y'all.

Thank you for your support and enthusiasim John, David, Rusty, Bob, Karl and Thom.  Hope I got everyone.  If not, it is not a deliberate omission.

Stage 1:  Contructing "THE SWEET SIXTEEN SPIDER ASSEMBLY"

Tools:

* Dremel Drill Press
* 1/16" drill bit
* small V-block
* Needle files/flat and round
* Razor saw and mitre box or use a tubing
cutter. (The latter makes a much better
and easier cut for the tubing.)
* Single edge razor blades
* Wire nippers
* Tweezers
* Chopper
* Ruler
* Compass
* 1/4 or 1/8 graph paper. 1/8 is better.
* ACC
* White glue (for the wood part)
* Paint and weathering powders

Materials:

* 1 K&S 5/8" pt.#143 brass tube
* 1 K&S 13/32" pt.#136 brass tube
* 1 pk. K&S 1/16" pt.#1800 aluminum tubing
* 1 pk. K&S 1/8" pt.#1802 aluminum tubing
* 1 pk. K&S 1/32" pt.#8160 brass rod
* 1 pk. Evergreen .020 x .125 plastic
strips pt.#126
* 3 Nylon or hard plastic bushings or
spacers...12mm O.D.x 10.4mm I.D.
x 3/8" h.
* 2 1 1/4 x 3/8 flat washers
* 3 13/16 x 3/8 flat washers
*16 metal axle HO scale freight
car wheelsets.
* Stripwood necessary to build
the upper and lower rail supports and
base.
(Same sizes as required as per article
in the On30 annual.)

Here is a pic of the subassemblies that make up the spider.  It is not as daunting as it looks, so plunge in.
During the build, if you have any questions, please ask.  If you think it can be improved, please post. 
This unit has been in operation now for a year and it operates flawlessly.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614080041.jpeg)

The first thing to be built, is the base.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614084858.jpeg)

To make the lower cross beams, go to this link, then print up the pdf files:  http://on30annual.com/extra/on30_extra_gallowsturntable.php

They print out full size for On30.  I will not show the actual printing here as I do not want to get into copyright issues.  Once you have the drawings, you can cut the lower support beams from the patterns you have from the printing.  Important note here.  Once you have the base beams in place, find absolute center now!  Very difficult later!

Once you have all your pieces cut, you can begin to assemble the lower part of the spider support assembly.  If you will go to page 5 of this thread, you will see where I pick it up again and build another base and rail support assembly.  You will see that I use the actual drawings, cut and glued to the rail base support beams.  This was the first one I built and it was a tough go.  The second one I built is again, on page 5 of this thread.  I am making this edit because a new member (Mike) caught a mistake on my part.  So, I have come back in to correct my error.  The picture with the error was in this location.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614081728.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614081900.jpeg)

You will notice little nibs on the corners.  Do not worry about these.  Once the subassembly is built, you can just file or sand these flush.

Rolling the rail can be done many ways, I will pretty much leave that up to you.  I used the bottom of a plastic bottle to wrap the rail around.  To get it perfectly round, I actually over lapped then cut.  Voila' , one ring rail.  Make sure your ring fits center of the base planks.  You can make a gauge and use that.  I do not have a pic of this.  So sorry.

Once this is finished, it is time to build the actual spider itself.  I promise, I will make every attempt to post the spider assembly today.  I have to download all the pics and get everything ready.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Really great Dave.....thanks for sharing!

Thank you Gregory.

That's quite a title:  General Construction Superintendant.   Is that your professional Title or is that the title you use on your model railroad?  As the railroad is in Florida, and it carries the monaker Denver within it, I am going to go out on a limb here and think it is the name of your railroad.  :)

Back to the Sweet Sixteen Spider Assembly build.

Now to begin the center hub for the wheel assembly:

Using a fancy indexing tool...Cut a piece of your graph paper in one, 1/4" wide strip, by 8 squares in length. It is critical that you cut it out exactly. Before you stick the tape to it, wrap it around the tube to see how the ends come together. It may take more than one try, but, it must be exact. Same if using 1/8", only you will count off sixteen. Using the 1/4", you will have to make some extra marks so you come up with 1/8" ctr. points along the entire strip. Using 1/8 graph paper, this step is done away with. 1/8 graph paper, also makes a much better job of it.

Once you have done this, place a piece of clear tape over the strip and wrap it around the 5/8 inch brass tube on the very edge.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614115515.jpeg)

Now you are ready to begin drilling 1/16" holes all the way around the tube. Also note that if your holes are off center just a micro, up, down or even sideways, it won't matter. Just don't let it go drastic. You can make up any differences, later on in the build.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614115614.jpeg)

Once done with this, you will then remove the index paper and cut the piece you just drilled, off the brass tube. You want it to be 1/4" wide. It is not that critical though.

Once you have cut this section from the tube, clean out all the burr's there might be present, with your round needle file. Then you will place it on one of the nylon bushings. You want it just a smidge above center.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614115650.jpeg)

DO NOT USE ANY GLUE HERE!


I will let you know when it is time to start using the sticky stuff.


Don't know what a smidge is, but it ain't much. This is so you will have some slight downward pressure on the center hub, keeping the wheels tightly to the rails. You'll see what I mean when it comes time for that. It will all come together in the end for ya.

Now, holding it firmly, drill your first hole through the bushing using the brass ring as your template. Do not try to go through both sides sides of the bushing.

Once you have that first hole drilled, push a small piece of 1/16" aluminum tubing all the way through, to the inside of the bushing. This will hold the ring in place while you drill out the rest of the tube holes in the bushing.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614115804.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614115939.jpeg)

Now drill out the rest of the holes. Then clean all the burr material from the inside of the bushing.

Cut all sixteen axle tubes with your trusty single edge razor blade from your 1/16" stock. I do this by just rolling the tube across the work surface with the blade, with downward pressure. The tubes are 1 1/16" in length. Once cut, clean up the ends with a light filing to remove the little ridge that appears. Do not go overboard with this, or the fit in the hole will be to loose. Place the first tube into one of the holes. Push it to where it is just short of coming all the way through to the inside. Then remove the aluminum pin you had holding the ring in place.
Then follow suit with the rest of the tubes until all sixteen are in place.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614121228.jpeg)

I think I read somewhere here, that we can only place a maximum of six pics in a posting.  So, here is where I will pick it up and continue on a little later.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Set the above assembly to one side and begin making your wheelsets.  A slight notation here...it has been said to me, that no one has ever seen a prototype with flanged wheels or rollers.  Well, now you have.  If I build it, it's a prototype.  My engineers may be a little odd sometimes in their applications, but they use their vivid imaginations and use readily available materials.  Nuf said!

I am using HO scale freight car wheelsets that have a metal axle.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614123448.jpeg)

Remove the wheels from the axle and put the axle into your parts bin for some future other use.
Now you make the bushing that goes into the wheels. This is made from the 1/8" and the 1/16" aluminum tubing.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614123653-28491968.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614123653-2867313.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614123653-2868629.jpeg)

Notice the wheel orientation on the tubing. Now we use some acc to bond the wheels to the tube. I put acc on the tube between the wheels, then little dabs on the wheel facing edges.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614123653-2869170.jpeg)

Then cut the tubing flush with the back of the wheel set.  Do this to all sixteen wheelsets. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614123653-28702490.jpeg)

I shall return

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Once you have that step done, you are going to start all over with the 1/16" tubing. Slide the tubing all the way through the 1/8" bushing you just finished. You will want enough sticking out on the other side, to put some acc on, then you will pull it back into the wheelset, leaving 3/32" of it, sticking out on one side.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614152940.jpeg)

Then again with your razor blade, cut the tubing flush with the back of the wheelset like you did before. The side with the short extension has now become the front of your wheelset. Repeat this for all sixteen sets.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614153030.jpeg)

Once finished with this step, you have to start over once again.
From the 1/32 brass rod, cut sixteen 1" pieces, these will become the axles.
you will need to clean up any burr's, so they will go through the bushings you just made.
Putting some acc on one end of the rod, push it into the wheelset until it is flush with the outside edge of the tubing. Do all sixteen wheelsets the same.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614125736-2871390.jpeg)

Now, just for grins and giggles and to admire your work, you can put all wheelsets into the hub/axle housing unit.  This is just a temporary look see.
Remove them and get ready to paint and finish them.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614154718.jpeg)

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

This is sooooooo cool. 

Thanx
Bob

I paint the outside and the tread area with Polly S Oily black. Once this has dried, I mix up a very thin wash of Polly S Rust. Then wash down the wheelsets with this.
Try to keep all paint off the 3/32" shaft coming out the front of the wheelsets.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614125736-28741169.jpeg)

Once dry, I will then use Bragdon bright rust.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614125736-28731723.jpeg)

Then, over that I will brush on some Bragdon black. Not enough to cover the rust, but just enough to push it back.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614162125.jpeg)

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Dave.   

I looked up your railroad and found a number of locations that show your rr. 

Very cool.  It looks like you did some stuff some time ago on another forum. 

Could you reprint some photos here?

Thanx
Bob

Thanks for the drop in and comments Bob.

The Horace and William Creek Railroad has never been actually, a working model railroad.  What you have seen are pics of a 30"x48" module.  That module has been long disposed of.
I am now working on an engine service module that will showcase the gallows turntable, a two stall enginehouse, sand house, water and oil service.  Also there will be a machine and blacksmith shop.  Every structure will be scratchbuilt.
What you are seeing here, are the beginnings.  I have been building an enginehouse in another forum, but am going to take it up here, along with all the other structures listed.

Thanks
Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Dave. 

So what's keeping you ??????

Great modeling.  😃😃😃😃😃😃😃

Thanx
Bob

Just hang around Bob.  One bridge at a time (figure of speech there).  No pun intended.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614181900.jpeg)

It is a shame that all the work you have performed, with the exception of the outside wheel and the outer ring, won't be seen, unless you make your table removable, so you can show it off! Doing that would not be that difficult to do.  Which is, by the way, how I did it.
But, all this work,makes this spider assembly fully operational and you can show others, what is making your turntable/spider assembly operate so effortlessly.

Next on the agenda, is to make the spacer ring that goes on the outside of the wheels.
For this step, we use the plastic strip material. Now, some of you may not like using plastic. For you, you can substitute brass shim stock. The dimensions remain the same. I tried both, but preferred the plastic. It's easier to work with.

Measure for the first reference mark, 5/16" from the end. From that point measure 5/8" for every reference mark until you have sixteen marks for drilling. Make these as exact as possible.
When you have made your last mark, measure 5/16" again and that's where, you cut the strip. It should be exactly 10" in length.
Then using the needle on your compass, make your pilot hole indents, then using your drill press, drill all sixteen holes with the 1/16" drill bit.

Sorry these pics are fuzzy.  Hopefully they are ok enough to show what is desired.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614181939.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614182012.jpeg)

Here is the strip painted and weathered.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240614182048.jpeg)

The following images are showing the wheelsets, axle housings and the locking ring all unpainted and unweathered.  Got a little out of order here.  But, that's ok.  It all works in the end which is, what we are looking for.
I am pretty much out of time today, but, I will continue this tomorrow and hopefully, will get the spider assembly build part done.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Dave

This thread just keeps getting better and better. Great work.  Thanks for sharing.

Awesome planning and detail work!
The Ledbetters are super impressed - they always thought that the center is "oh, about there!".

Bob, Dave and David...thanks for the drop in and the great comments.  David, on absolute center being "Oh, about there"... Do the Ledbetters work for the government?   :D :D :D

Bob, I think I read somewhere in the foum, that you were on a PBR.   If not, my mistake.  If so:  well, I did not have that distinction, but I did serve on board the submarine U.S.S. Grampus.  S.S. 523, out of Norfolk, Va..  That seems an eternity ago.  I left the Navy in 1971.

Onward and upward.

I have gotten ahead of myself in the thread here.  I did not show nor even write about building the upper ring rail support for the spider assembly.  Neither did I list rail size in the materials list...it's code 83.

I am going to regress today before I go any further and 'write' how to build the upper section.  I can't seem to find the pics.  Trying to live up to perfection is such an imperfect thing.  Catch y'all later today!

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Wonderful thread and fantastic modeling. Thanks for all the photos as well.

Tom ;D

Amazing detail.............

Thank you very much, Tom and Gregory.

You know what they say Tom...a picture is worth a thousand words!  I do my best.  Sometimes I drop the ball.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

I did not have enough time to finish this last week. So back to it. I will start with placing the spacer/retainer ring on the axle ends of the assembly. It really helps if you first curl the assembly. If it has been done correctly, the ends should match up perfectly.
I didn't do this and it had a tendency to kink at each drilled hole. It isn't a big problem, as this will correct itself a little later. You will also note, that I did this step before the wheels were painted. This is ok also, as you are only checking the ring fit. It will be removed to be painted, then replaced.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290614195506-29392078.jpeg)

A little tweaking here and there and it can be removed and painted.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290614195841-301083.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290614195841-301136.jpeg)

Now put the ring back on the axles.

Cut a small piece of the same plastic strip and acc it to the ring to close 'er up.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290614200649-3013988.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290614200649-30121945.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290614200649-30141147.jpeg)

Next step is to put the retainers on the ends of the axles. This is done by just slicing 1/16" pieces from your 1/8 aluminum tubing. a little filing to clean up the insides and these are placed onto the axle ends. Push them all the way. Then taking your flat mini file, file them flush with the axle, making a nice clean look. Then just touch the end with acc. Do each axle in this manner before moving on to the next. You can see two of them finished in the above pic, but the next one has not yet been filed.

Now you can finish the assembly off with paint touch up and then weathering.

This image is taken from the first assembly I built, so it has not been painted or weathered. Seems I misplaced a picture of the one I am building for this part of the thread, or I forgot to take one. Probably the latter is true.

Next, I will show you how the assembly is placed onto the base. This is where the washers come into play.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Very cool. 

Thanx
Bob

Awesome build thread!   ;D ;D ;D
I would need to be in Bob P.s insane asylum to try this!

Oh, yeah - I already am, but not for buildin' skills!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Thank you Bob P and David W., for the drop in.

C'mon...I was told eons ago, by a two thousand year old tibetan wise man that:  "we are limited only, by the restrictions we place upon ourselves."  Of course, I had to learn the language he spoke in, just to understand what he said.  Then from there, we teach grasshoppers how to fly!  :D

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

That's the best dose of philosophy we have ever had on this forum.

Wow

See ya.
Bob

Well, here we are on the last installment of "The Sweet Sixteen Spider Assembly" build.
I am using 4-3/8" flat washers and 2-3/8" flat washers. The difference between the 4 and the two, are outside diameter. It doesn't actually matter if they are all the same. I did this in the beginning, because I was going to add nbw's to the base washer. Reason being, I have every intention of showing the turntable and it will be removable to show all the hidden detail as well. Another reason, I am a detail nut! Many details are not seen, or they are slightly seen, but it causes folks to stop and take a more intense look.
So, here goes.

The base washer is 1 1/4" x 3/8". Then, there are (3) 13/16" x 3/8" washers mounted on top of that. I fasten these all together with acc.
Then paint and weather if you choose.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714061240-3015207.jpeg)

This becomes the spider assembly lower bearing face. It is to be mounted on the wooden base.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714061240-30171920.jpeg)

Then the spider assembly goes on next. The tubing I have in place, is just to keep everything in alignment and to show how it all goes together. It is not the permanent center shaft.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714061240-30182478.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714061240-30201770.jpeg)

The second 1 1/4" x 3/8" flat washer, is joined with the last 13/16" washer, in the same manner.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714061240-301940.jpeg)

After painting (if you so choose) it is inverted and placed on top of the spider assembly.
Again, it would seem I did not take the pic. So here again is the same pic as above.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714062149-3021905.jpeg)

Place the rail plate on the spider assembly at this point. There will still be a gap between the washers and the bottom of the table itself, the thickness of one of the washers.
Here, use a rectangular 1 1/4" x 1" piece of 1/16" thick basswood, with a 3/8" hole drilled dead center. This will then be placed over the center shaft and then acc'd to the washer.
This is where the table will be fastened to the spider assembly.

Again, no pics to show for this last bit, but hopefully, I have made it as clear as I can.  If it is unclear, please do not hesitate to ask.  I have no problem with questions.

Now, it is time to start on the building of the turntable proper.  The first thing that happens is, we build a jig.  I will start this later today.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Here is where we are heading.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714075359-3022199.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714075359-30231521.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010714075359-30241511.jpeg)

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Here we go with the second part of this thread.  Building the Turntable proper.

The jig is based, for the most part, from the drawings by Russ Watson, in the On30 Annual.  I have made some changes to the table itself in regard to lumber sizes and crosstie spacing.  Personal preference  also plays a factor.
The changes, are factored in, when building the jig.  All other dimensions, length of cross ties, center cross ties, etc., are all taken from the actual drawings of the article.  I make up several copies, so I can cut them up and use them for making the different jigs made.  Hopefully, this is made clear enough in the thread.  If not, do not hesitate to ask.

Why a jig? It certainly helps building something such as this, go so much easier. I have also heard a lot of modelers say: "I would love to have one of those on my layout, but it just looks too hard." Well, now that reason is gone.

Also, I am not perfect. So, if anyone reading this has a better way of doing it, then by all means, post it here in this thread. After all, ain't that what this is all about? Sharing ideas. 

I have used this jig and it works great, but nothing wrong with perhaps greater. Eh?

So, brew up a pot of coffee, tea or fire up the still and lets get it on!

O, and one more little thing...please forgive the orange/yellow of the pics.  A photograper, I am not.

Feel free to comment and ask questions.  Enjoy!  Better yet, give it a try, it may look daunting, but it's not.

Here is the link where you can make copies of the drawings you will need to lay everything out.

http://on30annual.com/extra/on30_extra_gallowsturntable.php

Tools used:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714072423-30701799.jpeg)

There are also clamps, but I forgot to put them in the pic.

The actual base is made from 1/8" x 6" x 24" basswood sheet, cut to a length of 12 3/8".  The width, as you can see, is up to you. This length, is because of the dimensional lumber I used to build the actual frame. It is adjustable according to the sizes of lumber you happen to use.
What is very critical, are the measurments inside the framing.

All inside dimensions for the table jig, are taken from the actual drawings in the Annual.  When they are printed, they print out full size.

Back:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714090923-30751135.jpeg)

The strips on the back are to stiffen the 1/8" sheet and prevent any curling or warping. You can do this or not. I prefer it.

Front

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714090427-30742289.jpeg)

I am using scale 8" x 14" (11/64" x 19/64" pieces for the frame. Don't have to, but I had a lot of it on hand. If you use different sized framing wood, you are going to have to make adjustments to keep the inside dimensions correct.

The side pieces being pointed to are exactly: 4 9/32" in length. Cut four (4).

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714091546-3076136.jpeg)

The end pieces are exactly: 3 9/16" in length. Cut two (2).


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714092528-30802266.jpeg)

These side pieces are cut to 3 29/32" Does not have to be exact, but are cut to overlap the side pieces as you can see. I cut them to overlap without actually measuring. So, the reason for the oddball dimension. Cut three (3).
The reason for three is, two of them are glued together in a stack formation.  See pic for orientation.  The two stacked act as a stop for the wider center cross ties, as you will see later on in the build.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714093042-3081211.jpeg)

These are the stops for the ends on the turntable. Later will show their usefulness. These are cut from 3/16" stock and of enough height to act as their intended use.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714093609-30821410.jpeg)

These are spacers that go between each cross tie, to keep things true.  Each spacer, is made from 2 pieces of 17/64" x 1/4" strips of wood glued together and they are cut to the inside width of the side strips of the jig.  There are only nine of these to be made.
The spacers for the wider center beams will be covered later.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714093936-30832328.jpeg)

You will also need two strips of wood about 1/4" x 12" and about 2 scale inches in thickness. These act as a spacer between the two bridge beams on either side of the turntable. Once everything is in place, these are easily removed from between the runners or beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-030714095351-30842427.jpeg)

The building of the jig, is pretty straightforward. No matter the size of wood you use for the jig frame. As I am using framing wood you may not use, it is the inside dimensions that are critical.
Keep the orientation of where the framing wood is glued to the base and to each other, and it will all come out great!

Inside length is: 12 1/16"
At the narrow Inside width on both ends is: 3 7/32"
At the wide inside is: 3 5/8"

Just keep your measurements within tolerances, and you will build a beautiful turntable deck.

Next step: We will begin building a turntable using the jig. We will also be using some of the other pieces that go along with the jig that are not an integral part of it.  I will show how these are built when they are needed.

I think I have covered it all so far, but, if you have any questions about this first section, please do not hesitate to ask.

Enjoy!!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Very cool

Thanx
Bob

Nicely done Dave, thanks for posting.
Hal

Quote from: halrey on July 03, 2014, 09:01:15 PM
Nicely done Dave, thanks for posting.   Hal 

Hal should know - he can remember the day that he was sceered that they were gonna
walk him up the steps to the gallows!
And Jimmy was there cheering!   ;D ;D ;D

Serussly, Dave - this is a fantastic build and detailed instructional thread!
Keep up the great work and keep posting the pictures!
We appreciate you!!!   8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

Dave

This is just some real fine modeling! I'm really enjoying your thread.

this is an amazing project! Very well done...John

Bob, Hal, David, John and John.  Thank you for all the comments and support! 
My apologies to everyone following the the thread, for my having been so long in posting, but things have been pretty hectic around here.

But, today is rectification day for that.

First thing today, find dead center for the jig.
Measure from inside edge to inside edge of the jig. Do this on both ends.
Or you can take your measurements from the actual drawings of the turntable from the annual. But, paper does expand and contract, so I prefer to measure from the actual jig itself.
When doing my measurements, I use an ultra tech digital thingy. I then convert it to MM, divide, then convert back to fraction, (I like playing with the thing) then mark this on both ends of the jig. Be careful and make very accurate measurements. It will determine how accurate, your table alignment is when mounting into your layout.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714080154-32392005.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714080154-32371769.jpeg)

Once you have the center line determined. Use a steel rule to mark the center of the jig.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714080154-3238474.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714080154-32401035.jpeg)



To build the turntable, the first thing to do is build the main beams.
For this, I do deviate from the scale lumber listed on the drawing. Instead of the 8" x 16", I use 6" x 14" x 12 1/32". This is cut to fit with a friction fit in the jig lengthwise.
Then I use a piece of 1/8" x 1/16" x 11 5/16". These two pieces will be joined and appear to be one beam, once they are stained and grained.
All together, make four of these.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714074423-32321070.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714074423-32331470.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714074423-32341950.jpeg)

Once you have them stained and grained, place them into the jig, placing the piece of strip wood listed above in between them to keep them spaced apart. keep everything oriented as you see in the pics.  Two main beams to each side of the jig.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714074423-32351105.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714074423-32362500.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714084640-3244133.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714084640-32451251.jpeg)

Now it is ready to start placing the cross ties, and the spacers. Do not start gluing anything yet!
There are a total of eighteen outboard cross ties. Using the scale 8" x 12" dimensional lumber, Cut all 18 of the outboard cross ties at 3 7/32" length. The center cross ties are a different issue. We will get to those later. Once cut, stain and grain.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714085628-32471080.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714085628-32481336.jpeg)

Next, we start placing the cross beams/ties and spacers.
Got to get some things done around here, so I will be back a little later today to continue on.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Dave.............

I don't know where in the country you are located but you need to consider having this judged in the NMRA Achievement Program for structures.  This is really quality work. 

If I lived close by I would be privileged to judge this model.

see ya
Bob

My goodness...that is one of the highest compliments I have ever gotten Bob.  Thank you!  I have never entered a structure that I have built, in any contests.  Actually, I have never even gone to a show.   The Narrow Gauge convention was here in Bellevue last time, I didn't even go to that.  Had to work!
I just throughly enjoy building structures for model railroading.   I enjoy it just as much to share.  It soothes the savage beast!   :D :D :D
As far as where I live...

Seattle, Washington

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Dave..........

I forgot about the Seattle piece...........  We were just there three weeks ago with the Pacific Northwest Region convention.  Oh well........ the NMRA national is in Portland next year.

There are a lot of modelers in the Seattle area.................. perhaps you can find a way to connect with a few.  I met some while I was incarcerated in the hospital last year at Lake Union.

There is a growing interest in the judges going to the modelers so there are a number of possibilities. 

Again............ however.  Great model.

thanx
Bob

Way cool thread. Makes me want to drop everything and build a gallows. Turntable.

Thanks again Bob and Mike thank you for your drop in and comment.
Bob, too bad we didn't meet while you were here.  That would have been way great!  Maybe next time.
By all means Mike, build yourself a gallows T/T.  Building the jig is the hardest part of it.  After that, it's a piece of cake!

Now, onward and upward...

Before I go on to show the cross ties thingy,  I almost forgot that a couple of small stops have to be made, in order to make this easy.
This is a pic of the stops themselves.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714144414-32571813.jpeg)

I used 3/32" x 1/8" thick scrap stripwood for the two pieces you see glued to the side frame. These are glued exactly 1/4" from the end.  This leaves room for the removable tabs.  This will then put these in the exact location for the removable tab to be placed.  This also allows the first cross tie to be oriented exactly where it needs to be.
The two removable tabs are made from 1/8" x 21/64" piece of scrap scale 6" x 16" lumber.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714144414-3258717.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714144414-32591399.jpeg)

The tabs, are not to be glued in place. They are to remain removable.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714144414-3260345.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714145140-32621329.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714144415-32612353.jpeg)

In this pic, their usefulness cannot be calculated.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714145505-32632069.jpeg)

This sets up the entire layout of the cross ties in the exact placement or orientation.  As you can see, we have cross tie, spacer, cross tie, spacer...
Now, we are ready to begin cutting the slots for the cross ties.  The following pics show how the side frames and ties are supposed to look when done.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714145932-3264820.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714145932-3265547.jpeg)

For now, all the cross ties and spacers are removed, so we can begin making the cuts.

Will catch that later on today.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

This next step is one where you have to be very careful. It is on tedious side, but as you can see in the above photo of the TT, it is well worth the effort.

Now, a problem rears its ugly head when using a blade to cut these notches. Just ask me!
A blade is easier, but can cause undue stress and strain on the psyche.

A blade has enough of a wedge shape to it, that it can cause problems from two directions. Getting right on the actual mark.
And cutting at an angle, no matter how you hold it when making the cut. 
I have tried different methods for cutting, but none but what I am going to show you, gives the clean, no angle cut required.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714174351-32702224.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-090714174351-32671593.jpeg)

You may not think it much, but it does make a very obvious difference in the work you produce.
In some things, this is not an issue, but when the model is an in your face piece, such as a very detailed turntable, it is very noticable.
To get away from this issue, I used a razor saw to make all the cuts.  It makes them very straight.  Also, the way they are cut, allows for very nice friction fits of all the cross ties.

You will notice in this pic, that all the slots have been cut.  Do not think I started at the outer end and worked inward.  It is quite the opposite.  I just forgot to take the pics of the first and following  cuts.
So, I am showing you where to begin, with a belated pic.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714095319-3428493.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714101009-3430818.jpeg)

I cannot find the pics of all this, so I will do my best to explain it with words.  My apologies for this.  I hope the pics I am posting show this with some clarity.

The first cut is made against the inboard stops or tabs.  Keeping the saw tightly against the stops, make your first cut.  Keep the saw flat against the tabs, cutting down to the glue line of the 1/8" inch piece of stripwood.
You can see this in the above pics.
Your second cut is with the first cross tie held tightly against the stop tabs.  Begin the cut, holding the saw at approximately a 30 degree angle, then push the saw away from you.  Cutting both sides at the same time.  Do not get into a hurry here.  Cut only to the depth shown.
Once the cut is made to the correct depth, you can remove the pieces.  Or, the slot tabs you just cut.  This will be four tabs for each cross tie.  Don't forget, we are cutting all four side beams at the same time.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714101009-34312334.jpeg)

All cuts are made in this same manner.  Cut the first...remove the cut pieces.  Place the tie.  Put the next spacer in, make the first cut against the spacer.  Then place the tie against the spacer, hold it there tightly, then make the second cut on both sides at the same time.
Remember that each cut begins by holding the saw at a 30 degree to make the initial cut, then bring the saw blade to a 90 degree against the spacer, then once this cut is made, place the cross tie against the spacer and make the second cut the same way.  Then again remove the little cut pieces from the table and put the tie into it's slots.

Do not glue the cross ties in yet!!

This is what you will get when when one side is finished.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714101009-3432487.jpeg)

Both sides

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714103511-3434183.jpeg)

This shows what you have labored to produce

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714101009-34331730.jpeg)

Now, all the ties are replaced with friction fit only.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714094651-34272270.jpeg)

Again...do not glue anything in yet!!

Next, I will show how to make the center cross ties.

If I have not made this more clear than mud, please do not hesitate to ask.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Before I go any further with this, I want to apologize for the picture quality.  They are awful and I know it.  But, I hope they do show what I am trying to convey.  Also, I think I did something to cause the above pics to disappear.  I believe it's because I removed them from the gallery.  I will work on correcting that today also.  Sometimes, ignorance is bliss.  Sometimes, it causes extra work.
Now that said:

This pic and the one below, are to show what we are going to construct next. All the center cross ties. These are all longer than the outboard ties.
Measure these according to the drawings using the correct dimensional scall lumber.
There is two sizes of lumber used. 8" x 16" and 6" x 16". There are 10 6" x 16" pieces cut to a length of 3 41/64" and 2 8" x 16" pieces cut to the same length.
Odd length dimension, but, that's what my measuring device shows.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714084914-34191760.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083257-3409697.jpeg)

This pic shows the saddle plates . There are four of these made.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083257-34101167.jpeg)

First, I would like to make a slight correction to my use of the word dimensional lumber. I don't actually use dimensional lumber, I use scale lumber. Forgive me for any incorrect word usage here, or if I caused any confusion. Dimensional and scale are two different things.  I get all my scale lumber from Kappler.  I have no affiliation with this company.  So no promotion intended here.  But, it is an excellent product and I use nothing else.

There, got that said.

Now it is time to cut, build and mount the center cross ties, for the T/T.

As I mentioned in my last post, there are two sizes of scale lumber to be cut for these.
8" x 16" and 6" x 16". Cut two 8" x 16" pieces at a length of 3 41/64".
Cut ten 6" x 16" pieces at the same length.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714085152-34201859.jpeg)

These will all have a 30 degree angle cut on the lower corners.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083257-34111690.jpeg)

I use my trusty miter box to do this. Notice where the cut is done. Push the strip in until you get an top end width of 5/32". Then make the cut.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083450-34132272.jpeg)

This pic is a top view of the two sizes or thicknesses used.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083257-34122068.jpeg)

Once all is cut, I then stain and grain. For color, I first use an A/I mix, then I follow with a A/burnt umber mix. I don't know the ratio's, I just mix till I get what I am looking for. Sometimes, I sort of go by the "seat of the pants," method.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714085617-34221708.jpeg)

This pic shows the materials needed to build the four doubled up cross ties.

The 8 pieces of lumber.
4 pieces of 1/32" x 3 1/4" brass rod, used for the tension/compression rods. These can be cut to a shorter length if you so choose. Just cut them to a length where the cut ends cannot be seen when they are place in the cross-ties.
The 1/4" x 7/64" strip of styrene, used for making the saddles.
The 1/32" x 3/4" pieces of strip wood used as spacers.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083938-34141865.jpeg)

Here is the orientation of the cross-ties, with the spacer strips in place. The small strips of wood are attached using ACC. Do not glue these strips even with the bottom edge. Leave a slight space between the bottom of the strips and the bottom edge of the cross-ties. This is strictly for esthetics and not mechanical means.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083938-3416930.jpeg)

Next, putting ACC on the face of the strips, we then join the two pieces. This leaves an automatic 1/32" gap between the two. This is where the c/t rods will go

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083938-3415573.jpeg)

The next step is to find the center point of the ties. As the length of these is 3 41/64", it makes it somewhat difficult to figure out where the center-line will actually fall.
As I use a digital caliper, all one has to do is change it to MM, which in this case is: 92.55mm. Divide that by 2 and you get: 46.275mm.
I just make it 46.27mm, or in our venacular, 1 53/64". Finding center on anything becomes so easy with this. Almost makes one feel brain lazy! Almost!!
Such amazing devices, the digital caliper and calculator!  I feel so intelligent!  ;) :)

Once we find the center-line, then we make scribe marks on either side of the center, 1/8". These lines, are where we make out cuts in the cross-ties for the saddle plates.

Cut to a depth of 7/64". Finish with a file until you have a width of 1/4" between the bottom of the slot and the bottom of the cross-tie.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083938-34172302.jpeg)

Here, all the center ties have been cut and await the saddles.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714083939-34181262.jpeg)

This shows how they will be oriented on the T/T.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714085617-3423193.jpeg)

Next, I will show how to make and mount the saddles.  (No pun intended there)  :) :)

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Take the piece of plastic strip and measure in 15/64". Make a shallow cut with your trusty blade. This is the width of the saddles.
Then using a flat file, begin rounding off this section, up to the shallow cut.
Once you have done this, you should have a piece that looks like this.
It should have 15/64" flats left on both sides and be rounded between.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714085617-34257.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714085617-34241921.jpeg)

Do not cut this piece from the plastic strip yet. Now we have to cut the slot for the rod.
To do this, I place the filed piece into the ties then using a razor saw, I make a slight cut in the piece, using the actual gap between the ties, as my reference for the cut.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714085618-3426729.jpeg)

Once all this is finished, cut off the piece at the 15/64" length...
And voila!
Do not glue this piece in yet!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714125019-34351299.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714125019-34361872.jpeg)

This pic shows the brass rod placed. Now we make it.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714125019-3438454.jpeg)

To make the rod, take the angles from the drawings you have and transfer them over to a piece of paper.  Then take the brass rod and bend to those angles.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714125019-3437242.jpeg)

Once you have all of rods made.  Glue them into the slots in the saddles.  Do not glue the saddles with the rods into your ties yet.  You first want to trial fit them.  Then remove them, paint them and weather them.  Then glue them with ACC into the cross ties as they belong.  Because they are made to fit a specific cross tie, do not get the wrong one into the wrong tie.  If you do, you will see why.  That will explain it better than I could with a 100 words.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-150714125020-34392499.jpeg)

Next, we will begin placing the center ties into the table.  So far, the only thing that has been permanently bonded to anything.  Are the saddles and rod and the center ties to their mating pieces.   NOTHING ELSE HAS BEEN PERMANENTLY FASTENED YET!

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

To mount the center cross-ties. The same method of mounting them, is the same as when mounting the outboard cross-ties.
The only difference is in two of the spacers used to get the correct spacing.

Cut two spacers out of pieces of stripwood.
One will be cut to a width of 3/16". One will be cut to a width of 1/4".

Reason being that the spacing is different between the end cross-ties and, the next. Hope the pic makes this more clear.

The first double cross-tie, is made up of one of the 6" x 16". This is spaced from the first inboard crosstie, with one of the 1/4" x 1/2" spacers you used to space all the inboard ties.
Mark and cut the slots for the first center crosstie.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160714082531-3447530.jpeg)

The next is a single 6" x 16" cross-tie. Space this with the 3/16" spacer you just cut from stripwood.
Then next single is done with the same spacer as the previous, including the last double made from the 6" x 16" and 8" x 16" pieces.
The 8" x 16" side faces to the center of the T/T.
Once you have these all cut and in place. Start from the last inside cross-tie on the opposite end and come to the center again.
If you have done everything correctly, you should be left with a 1/8" gap in the very center of the T/T.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160714082530-3446498.jpeg)

Gap left at the center of T/T. It looks off center, but this was caused by the camera angle.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160714082531-34492411.jpeg)

Now, place a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" stripwood in this center gap to fill. Attach with ACC.
This will enable you to mark the exact center of the table to drill out the necessary hole for the brass tubing that will go down through the table of your layout.
Don't drill yet though!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160714082531-3448542.jpeg)

The center cross-ties as well as all the outboard cross ties are attached to the main beams with ACC at this time.

You can remove the Turntable from the jig at this time, remove the two spacers you placed between the main side beams.  Then admire your work for a little bit, then put the turntable back into the jig. 
Next we will be building and placing the end beams.

But first: have a nice, hot cup of joe and a bacon and apple fritter on me!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-160714085010-3450840.jpeg)

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Sorry I have not posted on this project in awhile.  Been busy with other projects and wanted to take a break.

Next up on the t/t...building the end beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080440-3599986.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080719-3603261.jpeg)

To build these, I use two different sizes of scale lumber. Three pieces of 8" x 16" and one piece of 6" x 16".

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080440-360237.jpeg)

I cut off the three pieces of the 8" x 16", to a length of 4 1/32" and the one 6" x 16" to the same.
Using these measurements, does make it a slight differnce in thickness than the drawings call for. But, I have a tendency to put some things in my building, on a slight diet. It gives a better perspective and look to the model. Such as, trestle bents. Instead of using 1/4" x 1/4" material to build these, I will use 'S' scale 3/16" x 3/16". To me, it just looks less bulky and more realistic. IMO of course! I am digressing.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080440-36011598.jpeg)

Gluing the end pieces all together with wood glue in this configuration. Sorry about the crudness of it, but it is still worth a thousand words.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080440-36001070.jpeg)

I cut a template out of 1/32" plywood using the drawings of the t/t. With this, I mark the outline of the endbeams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714082640-36071781.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714082640-36082087.jpeg)

I do not have any power saws or such, so everything is done with razor saws, razor blades and sandpaper.
I trim off all excess material, then sand with 100 grit sandpaper down to the outside edge of the line line, then go to a finer grit to smooth away to the inside edge of the line. It works pretty fast and gives a good finish.
Make two of these beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714082640-3610289.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714084247-361272.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714082640-36111161.jpeg)

Then stain and grain.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080440-3599986.jpeg)

Remember the two tabs we made and glued to the end of the jig in the beginning.  Here is where they come in.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714081349-36052111.jpeg)

Place the beams between these tabs glueing them with ACC onto the lands you cut earlier in the side beams ends.  It places them exactly where they have to go.  No fuss, no muss.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714081349-36062404.jpeg)

Voila'!!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714080719-3603261.jpeg)

Next up.  We will be building the gallows sections of the turntable.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714085616-36131259.jpeg)

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

First, build a simple jig for the gallows support structure.

I cut out the actual image for these, from the drawings.
Then I glue scrap pieces of basswood strips on the jig base around the image. Makes for extremely fine accuracy.  This is a plus when building something like a turntable.  Not to mention scale lumber ain't cheap!
The amount of time it took me to just cut one set in this manner, is 10 minutes.  I timed it!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714130730-3614932.jpeg)

With this, all the correct angles are there and it is a simple matter of just cutting the lengths and the angles, using the jig.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714130730-36161844.jpeg)

First, I will place a piece of 10" x 10" post not cut to length yet, into the jig. The bottom must be cut to the correct angle first. Then, cut the top of the post to the correct angle and length using the jig.
Next, I cut the upper angle on the post, along the centerline.  DO NOT START GLUEING ANYTHING YET!!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714130730-3617375.jpeg)

Now cut the other post in the same manner.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714130730-3618480.jpeg)

Doesn't look like a good edge to edge match here, but once glued and clamped, it is a very tight tolerance. Once glued together (NOT YET), it is very hard to even find where the two posts come together once stained and grained.
I have gained a great love of jigs for building many things.
Once done, I can knock out several of the same thing in half the time or less. It just depends on how much stay-to-it-ivness I have.

Now we have both posts cut and we are ready to fit the cross spacer beam.
For this to fit correctly, we will want to cut notches into the main frame posts. These notches will hold 10" x 10" pieces in place.
I have cut them somewhat deeper than shown on the drawings. I use a combination of razor blades and a needle file to get this where it belongs. Because the inside edges are following a true vertical up and down line, the top of the slot is at 5/64" depth and the bottom is 3/64" depth. Then, I just gouge and cut until I am close to depth, then use a needle file to finish.
I do not cut these deeper because they are wrong on the drawing, I just prefer the look of it. Personal preference rearing up again!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714130730-3619444.jpeg)

Because I cut the length 31/32" of this beam to fit the notches, it is a little longer than what is shown on the drawing.
Now, we slip the cross beam into it's waiting spot. This should be a good, snug fit while in the jig.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714180622-3620207.jpeg)

Next, we cut and make the center posts and caps.  Now is a good time to stain and grain the gallows support posts.  Just remove the three pieces from the jig, then when finished, replace them back into the jig and continue on with the next step.  Do not glue yet!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714180622-3621861.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714060849-36281020.jpeg)

Out of time today.  Will take this up right here tomorrow.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

For the center posts, first cut four pieces of scale 6" x 12" lumber to a length of 1".
Here are the first two being cut and assembled.  These two will make one post.
Begin by cutting in from one edge 1/16". Cut down to a depth of 1/8" or 6 scale inches. Don't forget, I am working in 'O' scale.  Be careful to keep the cuts parallel to all surrounding surfaces.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714180622-36221678.jpeg)

Then again, at the bottom of the 1/8" cut, cut across the wide part of the post, leaving the 1/16" side attached to the post.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714180623-36231451.jpeg)

Do this to all four of the pieces for the posts.
Once you have this step done, you will file and sand to the correct inside width for the 10" x 10" center beam to fit into.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714180623-36242332.jpeg)

Next, we have to cut a notch in the top of the cross beam, for the top cap to fit into, until it rests on the top of the center post lands.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714063433-3631990.jpeg)

This cut goes only to the depth of the top lands of the center post top and the exact width of the post.  Then cut the cap piece and fit it up to this notch.

HINT:  When making this kind of fittings, I always cut small, and file to correct dimensions.  Makes for good snug fits.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714060849-36281020.jpeg)

Will be back shortly

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

This whole build thread is just too cool.

Thanx
Bob

Thanks for the drop in Bob and your comment.

Now, it is time to grain and stain all your pieces and begin to assemble the gallows A-frames. Use ACC to fasten all the pieces together, using your jig.

Now that we have this all done, it is now time to drill the holes through all three pieces for the 1/32" brass rod going from one side of the gallows frame to the other, under the cross beam.

Notice that this step is being done with the pieces not stained or grained.  The reason being is, that I did it the former way, but for some reason it did not show well in the pics.  So, I used the plain, as it shows up better.  It can be done either way, but it is better if you at least grain and stain the wood before assembly and glueing.

There are two ways to drill the holes necessary for the rods passing through all three gallows posts.
The first way is this:
The drill press is set at the angle necessary with an .026 bit, to drill straight down through the posts. As the next three pics show.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714124158-36321039.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714124158-3635663.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714124158-36341582.jpeg)

This is one way. Another is to build another jig. I love building jigs for projects such as this. They keep everything accurate and consistent. 
The jig is built according to the distance between the outside edge of the vertical top of the gallows main frame post and true vertical.  Also, when using the jig, the drill angle is straight up and down.  No angle set.  It's all in the jig!
Using pieces of scrapwood for this to build the actual jig.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714124158-36361946.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714124159-36371610.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714125519-36382172.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714125519-3639357.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714125520-36402277.jpeg)

The angle is very apparent in the pics. Doing it this way, is so much easier, once the jig is built, than the former way. But, I show both ways. You choose.

Once you have all the holes drilled, and the rods in place...Oh, and I get the color of the rods (brass), by dropping into ferric chloride for a few (up to 10) minutes, then rinsing off very well. Gives a nice gray/black coloring. Once the rods are in their proper locations, I then weather them with Bragdon weathering powders. It is hard to get a good pic of them in place!

Another way, is to just paint them black, then use bragdon powders to rust them up!  Or, you can just do it your favorite way.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714130255-3641699.jpeg)

Do not glue the gallows support posts in place yet. These are just sitting in place. Still have to make the iron pedestals that go under each leg, and the rod saddles for the top of the gallows frame and the top of the center post.
Also, I have not yet put any of the NBW's onto the model yet. Just before I start putting all the sub assemblies together, this is when I do that.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-240714130255-36422362.jpeg)

Next to build, is the top gallows beams.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Nice angle drilling set-up!   I'm really looking forward to seeing how you ensure the turntable/track is centered on the pivot/spider, that's the key to the whole project :-)


dave

Dave..............

What is the box car that always seems to be in the background ? ? ? ? ?

see ya
Bob

Here is is, another week since my last post.  But, we do have to support our habits, eh?
Dave, thanks for the drop in and your curiosity about the centering method.  I will tell you now, it is involved... ;)
Bob, thanks again for your drop in and comments.   As for the boxcar, that is a scratchbuilt, board by board, frame up'er, 18'er.  I use individual strips for the sides and the interior framing.  I have also built flatcars based on the same frame.  The boxcar is waiting patiently to be finished.
I also want to add this little tidbit of info...The amount of time it is taking to do this thread, I built four complete turntables.  Each one an almost exact copy of each other.  Two of them were for other model railroaders.  This is due to the jigs I built before hand.

Today, I am going to start with building the gallows cross member that supports the rod saddles and rods.
Using a copy of the drawings from the On30 gallows turntable plans for my template, here we go.  If you have not remembered, I posted a link to these drawings earlier in the thread.

Cut the cross pieces out of the specified scale lumber size, according to the dimensions on the drawings. Grain all the pieces as you cut them.  This sub-assembly is glued together as you go.  I use ACC for this. Staining it can be held off till later.  Just be careful about where the ACC goes.  It will not take stain once it is on the wood.  I am using a piece of foam core board as a work surface, taping the drawing to this.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100542-3693778.jpeg)

Next, cut the two diagonal support pieces.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100543-37371949.jpeg)

The next three pics show each step very clearly.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Or so I have heard it said.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100543-37382262.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100543-37391267.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100543-3740578.jpeg)

Now that it is assembled. Place the unit on top of the gallows side posts. Do not glue in place yet. This is just a test fit.  If you glue now, it will be very hard to place all the NBW's where they belong.
For this to fit correctly, you will notice in the drawings that the tops of the side support A-frames are notched to fit inside the gallows cross beams.
Notch them far enough down the supports, that the top edge of the cross beams, sit level with the tops of the support beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100814-37421845.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100814-37431653.jpeg)

You can go ahead and stain the cross beams at this time.  Again, do not glue them to the tops of the support beams.  Leave this as a separate sub-assembly. There are still many things that are going to be done with them before they are ready to be attached permanently.  Also, if you have stayed to close tolerances, these pictured, are a friction fit!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714101128-3746470.jpeg)

Now, dissasemble it all and finish staining everything.
So far, we are making good progress. Five main sub-assemblies so far, if you also built or are building the spider assembly (not pictured), the table operated on.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-230714085616-36131259.jpeg)

Next installment, will be making the saddles for the support rods and the iron plates that go on the bottom of the gallows side posts.  I will get to this part at least, today.    So much time and so little to do....er.....So little time and so much to do.  Yeah, that's it!

Then I will be adding all the NBW's to the assemblies, but still we do not glue the assemblies together.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

I may have gotten just a bit of myself with the last posting, saying next would be the drilling of the center hole for the tube.

Not yet time.

Am making the saddles and pedestals though. For the rods and the posts.
Will also cover drilling all the holes for the NBW's and mounting the rails on the table.

First, lets mount the rails.
It is paramount that these be exactly centered. Anyone ever building a turntable knows just how critical this can be. Off by just a little and it becomes a mountain. Especially when it comes to the table rails aligning with the enter/exit rails.
We can measure for exact center, then divide that by 2 for the rail centers. But, then we have to also be true all the way down on both sides. Don't want to end up with a curve in it.

Well, I thought about this and came up with a better way without all the hassle involved.
You got it! Another jig. Very simple to make also.

I cut out a piece of 1/64 plywood, to the exact inside dimensions of the side beams. Using my trusty digital caliper, I get an exact, friction fit. I cut it to a depth that is sufficient to reach from the rail ends to inside of both beams by 1/4" .
The slots I cut are taken from a correctly gauged piece of flex track. These are cut to the width of the rail web. You know, the part below the head and above the base. The thin part.
Not that most of you do not know what I am talking about, but beginners do visit.

Now, before you make the jig, you cut both rails to the exact length of what is called for in the drawing. Then put pliobond on the bottom of both rails and set aside to dry.

While this dries, then make the jig. Hope the pics make it clear.

By the way, the measurement you see on the caliper face, is only if you are making your side beams of the 6" width lumber. If you make them with the 8", that measurement is meaningless.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100954-37451373.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714172136-3747333.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714172136-3751831.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714172136-3752988.jpeg)

I use pliobond to fasten rails to ties.  Just run a small bead along the entire length of the rail bottom, set aside and allow to dry.  Once dry you are ready for the following.
This jig, along with a rail gauge, and a good hot soldering iron to bond the rail to the cross ties, keeps it all true and aligned. Just heat well and move on, the pliobond adheres quite well. Just move slowly enough to melt the pliobond and move on, allowing it to cool and take hold. (Again, that was for beginners). Make a gauge for each end if you so desire. I just made one and it works just great!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714172136-37532170.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714172137-3754396.jpeg)

Once more for the finished rail placement pic.  It's so purty!!  :) :)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714100954-37451373.jpeg)

I have said that next I will be doing the rod plates and bottom plates next.  But, it might be best if next, is making the locking mechanisms.  These mechanisms are strictuly up to you.  All the tables I have built so far, move very freely with not friction to speak of.  If the locks are not placed, you may end up with a loco running off into the pit!  But, as I said, this next step is entirely up to you.
So far, none of the subassemblies are glued in place.  Be patient, that does come along.  Don't get in a hurry with the glue yet.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

I wondered how you were going to tackle the two geometry problems (exactly centered rails and exactly centered pivot/post).  So my first question is answered...


dave

I will tell you this Dave, it involves....surprise!!  A jig.   :) :)

Here is a pic of the mechanism I will be doing next.  Notice that the rails are not in place.  Also, these were placed before the end beams were placed.  But, it is not too late to still install these, as it is all between the rails.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-290714191636-37551253.jpeg)

You will also notice that the NBW's are in place.  Don't worry, this is something that is done later.  The pic you are looking at was the first test table.  So things were'nt done in exactly the correct order.  It all works out.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Really great...

Thanx
Bob

Thank you Bob.
I do have to apologize to all who have been following this thread.  I posted yesterday that I would be doing the locking mechanisms next, but I cannot find the files.  I had forgotten that they were gone.  Oldtimers really sucks sometimes.  Didn't mean to dissappoint
So I will be continuing on with the table build later today.

When I build the next table, I will take a bunch of new pics, then show how to build the locks.  That sort of puts the horse before the cart.  But, as I stated earlier, the table works just fine without them.  The locking mechanisms are an added detail the table doesn't need to be operative.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Amazing work. Thanks for all of the detail, very inspiring!


John

Here's a good shot of the lock from a Sellers Turntable.


dave

Thanks guys for the input and comments.   Dave, that lock looks great.  I actually built one almost like that.  But it is so small, it is difficult to make it work.  Of course, one could just build it as non-operating.  It would be a great looking detail.  I built the locks on my turntable to operate. 
Is there a prototype of the locking mechanism I built?  Not exactly.   But, I did get close.  I found this pic on the internet after I built mine, and it shows that I was on the right track (pun intended).  This turntable is of the armstrong style also and what I found to be very interesting...dual gauge!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714113630-37601106.jpeg)

In retrospect, as the pic shows, I could have made the sliding plate smaller.  But the mechanism I built is right on, with just a small difference, which is easy to see.
Very creative use of a switch stand also. 
With the lever system I use though, it is fully operating and works great.  One just uses a totally non scale method of throwing the lever back and forth.  A toothpick or small screw driver.   Because of this, the turntable must always be mounted very close to the front of the layout.  Otherwise, structures and details can be damaged by reaching across them.
Someone once suggested that because it is operating, I could perhaps, activate it with a small servo.  Good idea!  I gave that a great deal of thought and still am.  It can be done, just trying to hide the actuator, is the big issue.
Anyhow,  thanks again Dave, for the pic.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Now, lets make the pedestals for the posts. There are six of them all total.  A lot of text isn't necessary, the pics pretty much demonstrate what is wanted.

They are cut from a .040 x /.250 styrene strip.
I use Evergreen Scale Models #149. (Of which I am not affiliated)
They are cut large enough to be able to file a bevel all around.  This four sided bevel is done on the outboard pedestals only.
The center pedestal, only has the bevel on the inside and outside edges.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714140520-37621269.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714140520-3763271.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714140520-37641749.jpeg)

Now, even though the center, vertical support beams will stand there on their own, it makes it too hard to keep them there, without them tipping over all the time.
So, I drilled 1/32" holes in the centers of each post, and inserted lengths of 3/32" brass rod.
Cut them so the length, does not stick out at the bottom edge of the main deck beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714140858-3766384.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714141918-37681686.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714141918-37691389.jpeg)

Once all six are made and mounted, I paint them with an oily black water based paint. Once dried, I then use Bragdon Weathering Powders (No affiliation), to give them the amount of weathering I desire.  Do not glue them to the deck yet!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714140520-37651487.jpeg)

These will just stand there by friction fit for now.  That's what is wanted through the next steps.

Dave   HWCRR
Seattle

Now it's time to make the saddles for the short center gallows post are made from Evergreen Scale Models 3/32" x 1/4" styrene strip. I have lost the number.
Make your shoulder cut at 27/64" or the same depth as the section of beam it rests upon.  You will make two of these.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714160048-37741084.jpeg)

Using your trusty sharp blade of choice, just carve away to the shoulder as you see here.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714160048-3775555.jpeg)

Then using either a file or a sanding nail board, bring it to the shape as seen here.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714160048-37761968.jpeg)

Then make two shallow cuts where the slots are to be. I make mine to the outside width of the gallows posts themselves. That way, the rods will fit very nicely where they belong. Just refer to the drawing of this and you will get the better idea.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714160048-37772331.jpeg)

Then using an oval needle file, I file down to half the depth of about 1/64". The next two pics give a good show.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714160048-3778586.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714161335-37802110.jpeg)

Cut it from the strip.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714161335-37812391.jpeg)

Here is where it belongs.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714161335-37822442.jpeg)

Paint with flat black and mount with ACC. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-300714161336-37831674.jpeg)

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Dave....

This is so oooooooooooo  cool ! ! ! !

You need to get this judged for AP or I'm coming to Seattle and doing it myself ! ! ! ! ! !

see ya
Bob

Now it is time to bend the center four support rods. Using the drawing as your template, as you can see. Get one end to the correct length, make a mark just above center, then using your trusty x-acto knife handle, holding the wire and knife handle firmly, bend the wire around the handle till you get the correct angle. The curvature is exactly that which is shown on the drawing.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714080541-3793413.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714080541-37941902.jpeg)

Once done, cut the other end off, using the drawing as your guide.
Make four of these.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714080541-37951515.jpeg)

Brass is very hard to color, as many of us know.  I always etch brass before I do anything else.  I emerse these into a 100 % solution of ferric chloride and leave it there for at the very least, 30 mins.  Then I take them out and rinse well with clean water.  Then I dry them completely and then emerse them into a blacken-it bath.  I leave them in this until the desired color is attained.  Then take them out, rinse well with clean water and allow to dry.  If any white residue shows up, I just gently buff it off with a very soft cloth. 
Side note: I have a friend who etches the brass with muriatic acid (concrete cleaner).  It does a fine job of it, but for myself, one acid in my collection of chemicals is enough.
Even after all this, it can still chip.  But, it does put up with some abuse.  If it does chip, you can just touch it up with flat black paint or permanent magic marker.
Once this is all done, I then use Bragdon powders to get the rust look, then set them aside.
Sorry, I cannot find the pics for all this, but hopefully I have explained it clearly enough.

Next, we make the small tabs that go on the underside of the table. These are what the rod ends pass through with the adjustment NBW's on the ends.
Here is a deviation from the plans.  I have 16 tension rods, whereas the drawings show only 8 tension rods.  That means there are only 8 of the angle plates.  As mine has the 16 rods, that means there are 12 tabs to make. 
Eight of these are made of 1/4" x 1/4"  scale lumber, to a length of 1/2" .  Four are cut from 1/4"x1/4" scale lumber, to a length 21/64.  Once these are cut, we then split them, so that you have two triangular pieces from each. This will give you a total of 12 pieces.  8 are 1/2" in length and 4 are 21/64" in length.  Remember, this measurement is based upon my table using the 6" wide scale lumber for the side beams, rather than the 8" shown in the drawings.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714080258-37891478.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714080258-37902405.jpeg)

These will be placed exactly where I show in the pics. Now is a good time to stain and grain these pieces.  It can be done later, but it is easier to do it now.

Here are two of the 1/2" tabs placed in their proper locations.  Two more are placed in exactly the same location, on the other side of the center support cross ties.   Place these tabs so the center line is split evenly on both sides of the side beams. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714102350-3803348.jpeg)

The next four are placed in these locations.  Two more are placed in exactly the same location, on the other end of the table.  Notice the tie count between the tabs you just placed and these.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714102350-3804654.jpeg)

The four smaller tabs are placed on both ends of the T/T, in these locations.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714102350-38051153.jpeg)

It is identical on the opposite end of the T/T.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310714102351-38072137.jpeg)

I have got to break away for just a bit.  When I return, I will show how to drill the holes properly.  As you can see, I did not do a very good job of it the first time.  Now, that I am doing it the way I am showing you.  It comes out a whole lot better.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Hey everybody.  Sorry, it has been almost a month since I last posted anything on the turntable.  As I have said before, life has a tendency to get in the way of the important things.
Bob, in response to your question about the box car, it is a scratchbuilt unit.  I was experimenting with making a frame for 18' cars.  The frame is used to make the box cars, flats, and gondolas for the Horace and William Creek R.R.'s fleet.  That box car you keep seeing, is my test bed.

Now on to the t/t.

Here is where I made another deviation from the plans in the Annual.
I have many pics of gallows turntables; they all have more support rods, than the turntable build instructions show in the prints.
The instructions show only four rods. One on each corner, and then the two on each side going over the lower center support beams.

I am going to do it as the pics show with prototype t/t's. They all have 16 rods.
There are the two each side, lower supports rods.
There are four intermediate support rods farther outboard, on all four corners.
Then, they all have the one support rod for each corner.
This is a total of 16 rods.
Here are a couple of pics to show the orientation of the support rods.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814101708-4026504.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814101709-402988.jpeg)

This deviation is no big deal.  I just make upper supports that have 3 slots each rather than just the one shown in the annual.

All the rods, which we make later on in the thread, are made of .020 brass rod/wire.

Now, we can move on to making the upper saddle plates where the bent rod pieces are attached and where the support rods will terminate and attach.

To make these, I use pieces of 27/64" x11/64" scrap wood. I file and slot, just like was done with the lower support saddles, using the same tools.
I make two, one for each side.

Sorry, it's not the greatest pic showing this.
But, there are pics coming up that show you a better example.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814101709-4030555.jpeg)

Once these are cut, I use .032 solder, to make the bent termination rods for them. 
The flexibility of the solder, makes it very easy to get the shape you want and it bends very easily. You can do it this way, or with brass rod. This is just the easy way for me to do it.  You can do this any way you choose.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814101709-4031162.jpeg)

Next, will place a couple of T pins into a piece of foam core board.  These are spaced according to the measurement in the pic.
This is the jig for make the rods.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814101709-4032249.jpeg)

This is pretty much what we are wanting. You will make six of these.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814105524-4033807.jpeg)

Cut off a piece of the solder so it will go around the pins on either end.  Make them longer than needed
Using the jig is a very simple matter. Just wrap the solder around the pin tightly, then give it a slight back push to give the offset, then do the other end the same way. If it is too long on the end, all you have to do is use a razor blade to nip it.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814105525-4034908.jpeg)

Once you have them all cut and the eyes in place, you will have three per plate.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814105525-40351977.jpeg)

Just ACC them centered, on the plate as shown.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814105525-4036317.jpeg)

Now you can paint and get them ready to mount. The only thing that is fastened together permanently right now, is the solder rods you just made.
The gallows posts are not yet fastened to the bridge. The top beams are not yet fastened either. The saddles you just made are not permanently fastened either. Everything, if done right, is just a good friction fit.
Here is where they will reside.  Yes, the paint is chipped, solder doesn't hold paint well.  This can be touched up later, once they are permanently mounted.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-210814105525-4037835.jpeg)

Next I will be fastening the upper ring rail beams and rail, to the bottom of the T/T.  You will see now, why I stressed accuracy when we first started building the T/T.
That's why I use a jig.  Mounting a turntable can be a difficult task. 

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Dave

I stopped by tonight for my latest installment of your work. 
All I can say is keep up the great work - enjoying the tread. Thanks for posting.

Very cool. At first, I figured witchcraft...but you've done a great job explaining.


Really nice...John

Thank you John and John.

Perhaps, I am only doing an SBS as a cover John.  ;)  Maybe I am wiggling my nose or...perhaps I am crossing my arms and nodding. :)

Anyhow, today I am going to show how I center out the upper rail beams.  Also how this centers where the main shaft will be planted and lines everything up.
This may seem like a lot of extra work, but the alignment of the turntable is a critical component of it's working as you want it to work.  Nothing more disappointing to go to all the effort of building something like this, getting it installed then finding, the entrance and exit rails do not align. :-[ :'(

To begin with, I first drill a 1/16" hole, all the way through,  in the center piece of wood we planted earlier in the thread. Between the center cross beams.  The accuracy of dead center for this hole, I cannot emphasize enough.  This same hole, will later be enlarged with various sized drill bits, to mount the main center shaft.
I had to take a couple of shots at it.  (The finding, not the drilling.)  The latter, you have only one shot at it.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814123728-40462446.jpeg)

Next, the jig for centering the rail beams is to be built.  All the measurements for this little device are taken from the On30 Annual drawings.
The outside dimensions that are between the flats are shown here.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814124517-4081917.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814124518-40821800.jpeg)

I used balsa to build this jig but any material can be used.  Also, the tube is 1/16" aluminum tubing.  Just what I had on hand.

First, cut out a square of your material, that is the same as the inside measurement of the beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814123729-40781560.jpeg)

Carefully find center, then drill a 1/16" hole.  I know, it looks off center, but it isn't.  It is just the fuzzy nature of balsa causing that appearance.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814123729-4079833.jpeg)

Then I glue in the piece of tubing.  This one is 2 5/16" in length.  Then the triangular pieces that are removed, are glued to the tube and the base, to get the tubing square.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814124519-40831385.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814124520-4084127.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814124520-40851000.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814125846-40861905.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814125846-4088585.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814125846-40892287.jpeg)

The jig is then placed into the hole you just drilled in the T/T.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814125846-4090388.jpeg)

Next, the actual rail support beams are made.  I have glued the actual patterns to the individual pieces here. The opposite side is already grained and stained.  This makes it easier to show how to do this.  Once all this is put together, the unit can be turned over so the paper does not show, once you stain the paper with the A/I.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814131619-4092223.jpeg)

Each piece has its own pattern and is cut accordingly and ACC'd to the piece preceding it.  Once done, set it aside with a weight on it and give the glue plenty of time to set firmly.

Cut the pattern pieces carefully and glue to the back surface of the beam pieces.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814131619-4095427.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814131619-4093843.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814131619-4094700.jpeg)

Once the unit is well set, then place it over the jig.  I am leaving the paper side up here, for better clarity on what it looks like.  Once you are satisfied, glue then entire unit onto the bottom of the T/T!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-260814132659-4096924.jpeg)

Once the beams have set nicely, remove the jig and voila'!  You are now ready to fasten your ring rail to the beams.

I hope I have made this more clear than mud.

There ya go!

Again, for those of you who have built T/T's and found at the end it did not align, I believe this method cures this heartache.  It did for me.
If you have a better way, then please share it here.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Dave,  I have questions regarding the Base Ring changes you made.  Although I am building the TT in HO, I downloaded the ON3 pdfs for it like you suggested.  However, you stated that you changed the dimensions of the Base Ring to 4-3/16" across the Flats...When I measured the pdf, the Base Ring there is 3" across the Flats.  The Bridge itself is only about 3-5/8" wide at the center Beams that ride over the Ring.....When I look at your pictures, it appears that the Ring is tucked under the Bridge....leading to the question.....Did you also widen the Bridge too?  I've read this forum article at least 10 times...Did I still miss something?  Just trying to get a handle on the Scale differences and the appropriate measurements adjustments based on the Scales.

Mike

Charlotte, NC area

Mike

You are lucky I just happened to drop in for a look see.  I have not been into the forum for a loooong time now.  Too much time, so little to do....er!  Strike that.
Why is because I have pretty much dropped out of model railroading and gone back to building scale wooden model ships.

What puzzles me about my thread here, is all the center mount tubing and electrical wiper work I had put here, is gone!  I had taken this all the way to even showing how I built the actual pit and the end support wheels.  That is all gone....!!  This thread was 10 pages at the very least.

The ring rail support beams, are the same as the full size template.  The dimension I actually changed, was the ring rail diameter.  The beams are not that width.  I did not widen the bridge assembly either.   It had to do with the scratchbuilt spider assembly.   I am sorry for the mix up.  Here I thought I was perfect.  Ignore the drawing I made.  I should probably go back and do some editing there.

If you will notice on this page, I am using the actual drawings, cut out and glued to the scale lumber I am actually using.  I am glad you caught this.  I did not notice my screw up.

If you just follow the drawings, you will not go wrong.  I have built two functioning turntables for myself,  and they are identical and they operate flawlessly.  I built two for another railroader and they are operating flawlessly also.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

I do not know what happened with the thread, but there are several pages missing.  It took the building of this T/T all the way to completion!  Including everything seen in the first pic.

Sigh...

Unless the administrators have it all saved somewhere, should I redo the missing last half?  That was a lot of work...gone!

Dave
Seattle

Hi Dave.....good luck with the ship building, but I hope you get back to railroading also.


I understand your interest in ships. I have 3 unfinished Billings Boats kits and 1 not started (the Blue Nose) that I hope to get back to one day.

Hey Gregory, thank you for dropping in and your great comment!

There is a pic of the turntable at the very beginning of the thread.  I do not have a pic of it on my module.  The HWCRR is pretty much defunct.  In my above post, I said they "operate" flawlessly, it should have read "operated."  Typo!!

I will re-post a little later, some pics of the table as it appeared on the missing pages of this thread.  I may also take the time to redo the pages of the missing thread.

I stated also, earlier in the thread, that I could not show how I built the locking mechanisms, because I could not find the file of the pics.  Well, I found them in a hidden file.
So, I may go back and do some editing there also.  Including the how to on building the locking mechanism.

Dave
Seattle

I, for one, am looking forward to seeing more photos and how-to posts on this great project. 


dave

Yes, I saw that you were using the paper as your background temp,ages...that's what was confusing....I' so glad you did drop in for the "look see"., as it does make it all come together.  And I did wonder what became of the rest of the series, as it did seem a little  'unfinished'.  That explains a lot.  If you find that the rest was somehow dropped by mistake and they can republish, that would be awesome.  And if they don't, and you still have them and want to repost...that would be even " more awesomer". Hehe.  Anyway, I have rad this like ten times, prepping myself.  I've gotten all of my materials RESIZED, RESCALED for the Spider into HO....EXCEPT the center bushing setup.....still trying to figure out what to do there....along the lines you did....I'm sure I'll come up with something soon.

I just want to add, that this has been a great inspirational and instructional series.  I thank you very much.   I will strive to be as concise and precise as you.  You know the saying....copying someone's work is the best form of flattery, or something like that.  I hope to make you proud!

I'll be looking to see if the rest gets reposted.  Good luck on the ship building...hope to see some posts on them somewhere.  I'm sure they'll be as awesome as this.
:) :) :) ;)
Warmest regards,

Mike
Charlotte, NC area

Dave,  sorry, I forgot to address my reply to YOU, forgot to add your name.  MY BAD.....getting excited to start soon.

:-[

Mike,
Charlotte, NC Area

As long as the bushing and center post are small enough, it will be okay.  It does not show that much  anyway.  You will probably have to do the axles differently as the tubing I used is about as small as it gets.  Unless of course, I don't know what I am talking about.
I can get very small bushings, it would just mean your center would be different as far as the spacing of the sixteen axles.  But, it is not impossible.
I can go to my hardware store and see what the smallest available is and let you know.  If you cannot find them, perhaps arrangements can be made to get them to you.  If that would be okay and help you.

Dave
Seattle

I think I may have found a solution today.  Since I am building this in HO, I naturally had to shrink down your hardware list, starting with the 5/8" tube down to 3/8" OD.  I found a brass bushing with an 3/8" ID, and enough wall thickness to give me some 'meat' to drill thru, and then found some Nylon type bushings to reduce the inside of the 3/8 tube to be able to hook up to the gearbox.  One advantage I my have, besides your guidance, is that I work in the architecture industry, and I have design software such as Adobe, Autocad & Revit to help me with the scale reductions.  So I can calculate the new 16 axle locations on the center bushing setup.  Also, if my measurements were correct, the TT pattern was 50' long, and I'm stretching mine to 65', as I have some 3-Truck Shays & Climaxes.  I'll be 'mocking up' the new center setup tomorrow, both on the computer on physically....

I appreciate the offer for parts help...and if my theory and 'mental assembly' doesn't pan out, I'll take you up on it.  I'll keep you posted.

One thing I may take you up on is advice as to posting my version of your exquisite version on this forum for us HO'ers.

See ya'll soon.

Logger Mike
Charlotte, NC.

Another thing that I'm having to do differently because of scale change is the spider wheels.....I'm starting off with N-Scale 36" metal wheels and axles, so Yes, I'll need to rework them.....but welcome the challenge.  This is going to be some much fun!

Mike, I have lost my copies of the thread, so this is going to be a little more difficult to replace than I first thought.   I am pretty sure I have all the pics though.   I am going to have to go over it all very carefully, so I do not leave anything out.  As this goes, please do not hesitate to ask me about any part of it.  That way, all aspects will get covered.

I am very flattered about your enthusiasm with this.  Posting this in the HO section would be great!   I would be glad to work with you on this. 

Dave
Seattle

That'll be great for any qui dance you may offer as I go along.....I'm pretty certain that I'll have plenty to do just getting up to the stage of the last post showing....So "you have some time" hehe. ;D

Thanks for the help so far tho..it is much appreciated.

Going forward!

Mike
Charlotte

Dave,

"Qui dance" was supposed to be "advice" :-[ :-\

Mike
Charlotte

Well Mike, I thought it was french?   Does not qui dans(c)e mean: "the one who will make you dance?"  Referring to a person... Or something like that? :D

Dave
Seattle

Dave, I think so....but my French is A LOT rusty.. :P

Have started The HO CONVERSION....with my own little adjustments....Base is built, Bottom ring base built, going to start on Spider Assembly itself  today.  Am taking pictures and writing narrative along the way....Will start posting in New thread Shortly.


Mike,
Charlotte

Dave,
Very productive day yesterday......have all 32 wheel halves, pulled from axles, core drilled out to new axle size, 1st "set" assembled, then started to bend Lower Rail.  What a pain that is.  Anyway, thinking ahead, did you recall how you set up you rail wires to get power?.....I'm going to be using DCC, so it should be "Fairly Simple"....but I just can't picture it yet.

Mike, good progress.

The rail is not split nor is it even used to pick up power,  It is just there for the wheels to roll on.   The ring rail in the pit is not used to pick up power either.
It is all done through the center shaft.
It was designed for DCC.
Starting Tuesday, I will begin putting the thread back together.  The electrical pickup part comes much later.  Even past where the thread now stops.

When you get the table ring rails made, you can just use joiners on the ends and solder the ends together.  Electricity will never touch the bottom one or the top one.  The wires will come up through the center shaft and be connected to the rails.  There will be a couple of brass rings on the lower part of the shaft, where the ERU (Electronic Reversing Unit),  comes into play.

I think you still have a little way to go before you get into the electric (electronic) part of it all.

Have you started posting it in a thread yet?  I am looking forward to seeing you do this.   Seeing will also help me to help you more as you come to each stage of the build.

Dave
Seattle

Thanks Dave.

I was assuming that the Spider rings weren't "hot" since you didn't mention it when building the Ring.  No I haven't startrd posting yet, just finished the 16 wheels and axles yesterday.....that was "fun"!  :o......trying to use readily available parts for them was a priority, so the axles where quite the challenge....but I think I got it worked out.  Next will be creating the Center Hub....but I have to go back and recalculate the length and spacing of the " indexing strip".....I applied it to the brass hub, but came up a bit short on the closing ends....like 3/64ths of an inch.....too much I thought, I'll redraw and calibrate today. And try again later.

As to posting, I'm still trying to understand the proper procedures for posting a lengthy  thread like yours....and be correct.  Don't want to cause any headaches or problems.

Will keep you posted.

BTW, I resonded toyour message.  And sent you a separate one later.  Did you get them?

Mike.

Okay, going to try to do a re-do on this thread.  Again, I do not know where it went, it was a finished thread.  But half of it disappeared into oblivion.  Maybe a politicians private server... hmmmm.

Sometimes, it would appear that the pics and the stage I was working on, was already behind or ahead or whatever.  Picking this up is going to be interesting right at first. 
The thread may or may not be as it was.  I could very easily leave something out as well as put something in that was not there before.  I will do my best with this.  Again, I have stored all my copies of everything away.  That includes measurements drawings, etc.
Bear with me on this please.   IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING, PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK!

But, here goes...

As you can see in the last pic, I had shown how to mount the upper ring rail support beams to the bottom of the T/T.   These are the follow up pics of it's being permanently mounted.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315093023-70612284.jpeg)

The piece of brass tubing here, is only temporary, to check for alignment.  The permanent center tube comes later on.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315093023-71482321.jpeg)

The next thing on the docket, is to make the outer support wheels that will ride on the outer ring rail.  This stage is entirely up to the builder.  You may forego this step, as you may want the T/T to be a balance table instead of a supported ends style.
Here is where it gets difficult, as I have to carefully measure everything on a finished table.

For this step, I use Evergreen strips, aluminum tubing,  Bondene and CA.

Wheel support assembly Evergreen #149 strips...3/64" x 11/64" 
Axle housing Aluminum tube...1/16" i.d.
Axle Aluminum tube...1/16" o.d.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315093023-71501670.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315095737-7152609.jpeg)

The wheelsets are made the same way as the spider assembly wheels were done.
There are four of these made.   The    tube you see, is the axle housing tube.  It is to be cut off flush with either side of the wheels.  I have not done that yet in this pic as I wanted you to see how it passes through.   It is permanently fastened inside the wheelsets with CA.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315093023-71511416.jpeg)

This is the 1/16" o.d. axle tube going through the holes, which are 1/16" drill, on both sides of the wheel support assembly, and the axle housing, which is the 1/16" tube already in the wheelset.  The locking ring is being placed on one end.  This is cut from the 1/16" tubing.   This is attached with CA to the axle.  DO NOT LET ANY OF THE CA TOUCH THE ASSEMBLY HOUSING!  THESE ARE MADE TO ACTUALLY ROLL!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315095737-71532421.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315095737-7154547.jpeg)

Here is one complete assembly before painting and weathering.  Make four of these.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315095737-71561696.jpeg)

Here is where they are to be permanently located.   This location is critical.  They will be riding on the ring rail and perfect alignment is pretty much called for.  There will be a little room for error, but not much.   So try to keep this where it has to be.  The angle you see in the housing, is also required so the wheelsets follow an angle according to the ring rail diameter.    And a partridge in a pear tree!!!!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315102328-71572073.jpeg)

AM I SURE I WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN?

The end beams must be notched to hold the assemblies.  These are for wheel clearance only.  The depth should only be enough to prevent the wheels from touching the beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315102328-71591617.jpeg)

Painting with rust and weathering with Bragdon powders.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315102328-7162535.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315103701-7163320.jpeg)

Then all four are fastened permanently in place. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315103701-71651767.jpeg)

In this pic, you can see the notches that were cut into the end beams.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-310315103701-7164463.jpeg)

Again, please be patient.  It is like trying to start an engine without gasoline.  I still need to add the measurements for the wheel assembly pieces.

Now, before we do anything more to the T/T itself, I built the pit.   You can do this as you desire for your railroad, but this is how it was for mine.  If you decide to have only a table that is balanced, or part of a pit, all will work just the same.

Dave
Seattle

To begin the turntable pit, I first used the drawings from On30 Annual.  I cut out the table end to get the correct arc for the pit wall.  I glued wood strips to the paper, leaving a very small gap at the end for table clearance.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415080255-71961960.jpeg)

Once I had my form made, I began laying up arcs of cribbing sections, using O scale wood ties.  Once I had enough for the first complete circle, I glued the arcs together to make the base circle.
From there, I just continued adding layers till I got the correct pit wall depth.  I am not going to go SBS here.  Just let the pics do the talking.  Again, building this pit may not be what you want for your turntable.  I am just including this as one way you can go.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074415-71791605.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074415-71781941.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074415-71781941.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074415-7181884.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074902-71822089.jpeg)

Once I had this completed, I next made the base for the ring rail.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074902-71832500.jpeg)

This is where I am going to have to pick up a little later today.  For now, I have a honey do waiting for me.  Sorry about the poor pic quality of the above.  But, I was have real lighting problems at this stage.  But, they can be seen.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Here I go again.

Here is the finished ring rail base.  Sans rail and coloring.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074902-7184931.jpeg)

Once I got to this point, I had to put spacers under it to bring everything to the correct level, for sitting in the layout at the proper altitude.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074902-71852408.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074902-71852408.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415074903-71861659.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075335-71881510.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075335-71891981.jpeg)

Here, the gallows is just sitting on the table,  it is not yet fastened permanently.  Nor is the main shaft been put in place.  The table is just sitting in it's proper location for now to just check alignments.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075335-71901058.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075335-7191396.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075335-7191396.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075922-71931378.jpeg)

The table aligns perfectly on both ends.  The alignment was off so little that it is not even worth mentioning.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075922-71941466.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-010415075923-71951944.jpeg)

Next up, will be putting all the NBW's in the deck and side beams.  Then doing the center shaft and electrical.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

Wow, just catching up on this thread (new guy) fantastic work Dave, I love the spider assembly, really awesome work :-)
Stan

Thank you Stan and welcome to the forum!

It's a great place to be! 

Dave

What's your plan for the electrical? Are you making rings and contacts?

Yes...this was a complete thread at one time.  All the way to the completion.  Just be patient, it is coming back.  I just have to get the missing things.
Half of this thread just up and went into some politicians private server I think.  Then it was wiped!

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

haha.
So this is an old thread, you finished the work previously and are re-posting?
Did you have any way to adjust anything or you just built everything right in the first place?
Stan

Hey Stan.

I built a few of these.   Some for other model railroaders.  They all work(ed) flawlessly.  My railroad, The Horace and William Creek R.R., is now defunct.
The first one I built was a lot of trial and error, especially the spider and alignment locking assemblies.  But after that, it would take me about a week to build a complete one.  I even considered a kit.

For some reason, one day about a week ago, I just had the urge to come in and see what was going on.  That's when I discovered that half this thread was missing!  I also seen a post from LoggerMike asking about it.  He is building one in HO scale!  Gotta really respect that!!
So, I started redoing the thread from there, two days ago.  This thread was finished almost a year ago. 

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

There is not much in adding the NBW's that I can find in my files.  So, I will just include some pics.   The NBW's are added according to the drawings in the Annual.
Inside and outside mains support beams and the deck and the underside.
Some of the NBW"s I did not add because they would never be seen anyway.  These are the ones that are down between the center cross beams.
Putting them in is strictly up to you.

The NBW's I used in the gallows section and the main side beams are Grandt # 128

The NBW's I used on the cross ties, above and below and on the end beams of the center support cross beams are Grandt # 18

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415080705-72022094.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415080705-72031520.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415080705-7204647.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415080705-72051949.jpeg)

What appears to be missing NBW's on the top of the side beams, is where the gallows legs actually go onto the table.
Also, the arrangement of the NBW's on both ends of my turntable have been changed.  The reason was because of the locking mechanisms I built and placed.
Originally, the actuating rods were in between the the side support beams.  But once the table was finished to that point, I realized the rods would have to go to the inside.  But rather than change out the NBW's according to the drawings, I left them as they were.

Just use the drawings in the Annual.  As a side note here...it may have been easier to do the side beams prior to assembly.  Then the upper and lowers now.
This was something I did not have in the original thread.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

EUREKA!!

I found some paperwork in a brief case stuck way back in my closet!!!

In this pic, I am showing the various materials to be used in construction of the center shaft and the electrical distribution.

1. The topmost brass tubing is 5/8" o.d with a 19/32" i.d.
This will be the outermost part of the main bearing assembly.  This is the main support tube shaft for the entire assembly.  I do not know what length to tell you to cut this as you will have to cut it to the length your layout requires.  Once this piece is completely finished, this will be fastened permanently to the layout.

2. The next piece of brass tubing is 13/32" o.d. with a 3/8" i.d.  This is the main shaft that goes down through the bearings and rotates with the table.

3. The next piece down is the plastic 3/8" o.d.. Evergreen number 232

4. Then there are two black nylon bushings that will go inside the 19/32" i.d. brass tubing.
These are, of course, 19/32" o.d. with the inside being 13/32".
This will be to support the main shaft within the bearing assembly.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415090001-720661.jpeg)

First thing, I cut a piece of the plastic tubing to a length of 1 3/4". Then I cut two slots. Each on different sides of one another.
The first slot is about 1/2" in length, the other is cut 1 1/4" in length.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415090001-7207897.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415090001-7208579.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415090001-72091164.jpeg)

Next, I cut two 1/4" wide rings from the #2 brass tube in the above text.
These will be the conducting rings for the electical contacts on the shaft.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091142-7211302.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091142-72161604.jpeg)

The reasons for the slots being cut are twofold.
The short one, is so the plastic tube will fit inside the brass tubing. It is a larger enough o.d., so to make a slide in fit, the slot allows for a good solid fit.
This is also one reason for the longer slot for the two contact rings.
The other reason is for the wire to slide into. You will see this a little later on.

Here is the plastic tube inserted into the brass shaft, with the electrical contacts in place, temporarily. Just to check everything for good fit. Nothing is glued yet!

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091748-7220722.jpeg)

Here the wiring is soldered to the inside of each of the rings.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091748-7221314.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091748-7222130.jpeg)

Once done with that, the rings are slid into place, with the wires going behind and up the slots. Bond these rings to the plastic tube with ACC.
This completely conceals the wires.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091748-7223305.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415091748-72242442.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415093042-7225885.jpeg)

Set this assembly aside now and make the main bearing assembly, Using the #1 brass tube and the two black nylong bushings.

Here are the bushings, placed on the shaft just for fit and making sure they are free to rotate smoothly.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415093042-7226994.jpeg)

Here is the tubing into which the bearings will be placed.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415093042-72272370.jpeg)

Here, I have temporarily put the bushings into the bearing tube along with the main shaft.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415093042-722835.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415093042-7229494.jpeg)

Ok, I am sorry I have to stop here.  The reason being is, I have to sort out where I am at with this.   I do not want to make any errors here.
As soon as I get this sorted out, I will continue on.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Such great work Dave, I like how you did the contacts for the power. Can't wait to see the locking mechanism.
Why the "bumps" in the ties near the center of the bridge?
Stan

Stan,  those "bumps" are a very critical part of a prototype gallows turntable.  The are the center cross tie support rod saddles.
These were actually a very ingenious way to keep the table from bowing transversely.  As most gallows turntables were of the balance style, the locomotive would place a great deal of pressure on the table, not only end to end, but also side to side.  These rods kept the table from bowing and rising off the spider assembly on the outsides.    Compression and tension!
Unfortunately, kits that were produced, never included this detail.  If you notice on the Annual drawings, they are depicted.

Here is a drawing I just made and took a pic of.  This was just added as a modified message after you responded.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/206-020415104216-72352171.jpeg)

I hope this explains it for you.

Then, the main support rods of course, kept the table from bowing/sagging in the table lengthwise.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

ahh. Thanks Dave.

My immense apologies for having not been back in the forum for quite sometime.
There have been a lot of issues since my last visit.

Since then, I have pretty much lost heart in rebuilding this thread.  As I had stated, this was a completed thread at one time.  I do not know what happened to wipe out all the work I had done, to do so.
I have boxed and stored anything and everything that has to do with model building.  My dioramas are all gone, structures all sold or given away.

A lot of things have changed in the last year, since my last posting.  Not being a pessimist here, just a realist:  but life has a way of changing things when we don't want it to, but we, are not as in control as we would like to think we are.

Again my apologies for this.

Dave
Seattle

No need to apologize, Dave.  We all know sometimes life gets in the way of our hobbies.  Hope things are getting better.



Jeff

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 05, 2015, 12:14:50 PM
No need to apologize, Dave.  We all know sometimes life gets in the way of our hobbies.  Hope things are getting better.
Jeff   

Dave,  ditto on Jeff's comment!!
Your life changes must have been pretty devastating to get rid of everything related to model building!

But you're still welcome here - with your skills, you can at least keep up with the hobby and harass the rest of us
about our screw-ups!!