Hey Der Folks!
I am curious if there is a difference in the result one would get using "generic" craft store chalks vs Pan Pastel Brand? I see a lot of references to those little containers of Pan Pastel brand for weathering, which a little more pricey (which is fine) if the results are much better, and easier to use than basic pastels. I currently have the Doc O'Briens weathering powders set, but have not gotten the results I like, plus there is not much of a variety in colors.
Thank You in Advance,
-Steven
Hey Steven,
I'd say yes, there's a huge difference. Pan Pastels have much 'cling' to them than regular chalks. I have them and do like them for some things but I'm still a long way away from mastering their use. Regular chalks are much cheaper and work fine but do tend to disappear or get greatly reduced in effect when you seal them with a clear finish (like Dullcoat). Sometimes that can be a good thing though.
The rust color powders from Bar Mills also seem to 'grab' everything they get applied to much more so than regular chalks.
A cheap source of a black dirty black colored chalk is a charcoal briquette.
Brett Gallant of Sierra West is a big proponent of weathering chalks and the link below is a list of the chalk and colors he recommends.
https://sierrawestscalemodels.com/university.html
A link to the "how to" area on his forum.
A link to the videos of techniques on his forum.
https://sierrawestscalemodels.com/videos.html (https://sierrawestscalemodels.com/videos.html)
There are others out there, but this is the first that came to mind. Good luck..... :)
Steven
The main difference between the different brands of chalk is the binder. The binder keeps the pigments together. There are applications where a good binder is useful and applications where it doesn't help or gets in the way. The best advice I can give you is try it on a piece of scrap before you use it on your model. The SWSM application videos are excellent - a great place to start. Check out all the videos that are available from the different manufactures and look through the threads here on the forum. You will see where different modelers are using different products for specific applications. You need to know that the best product is the one you learn to use for your application. I use chalks like paint using alcohol to apply them and like the results. Lately, I have been applying pan pastels using this technique and like it better than apply them dry with the sponge applicators. Please ask questions here on the forum if you have issues.
Quote from: ReadingBob on July 15, 2020, 08:18:17 AM
Hey Steven,
I'd say yes, there's a huge difference. Pan Pastels have much 'cling' to them than regular chalks. I have them and do like them for some things but I'm still a long way away from mastering their use. Regular chalks are much cheaper and work fine but do tend to disappear or get greatly reduced in effect when you seal them with a clear finish (like Dullcoat). Sometimes that can be a good thing though.
The rust color powders from Bar Mills also seem to 'grab' everything they get applied to much more so than regular chalks.
A cheap source of a black dirty black colored chalk is a charcoal briquette.
Ditto that. MUCH more cling. I end up using both. For rotted wood effect at the bottom of clapboard buildings, I love using the PPs to apply along the ground line. The adhesion is fantastic. For more subtle effects, say, some dark/blackish lines dripping down from window sills, I prefer to use regular chalks scraped into powder with a single-edge razor blade. Sometimes I can smudge on too much color too easily with the PPs. Also, for any chalk/alcohol wash you're doing (a la Brett Gallant), his videos show using stick chalks (Rembrandt). They work great for that.
For a dull, even patina, I like sticks. For a higher contrast effect, I like the PPs.
FWIW.
I have not tried the Pan Pastels. They get rave reviews and I am sure are good. However I really like the soft pastel chalk sticks I use. Got them back in the 1970s from a craft store but can't remember the brand name offhand--I think they were made in England. I'll have to check when I get home. They were cheap (I was dirt poor back then) and last forever.
Last year I bought some artists chalks in earth tones, but did not realize they were hard pastels. They won't stick to my work for love or money, so I gave them to my artist daughter and went back to my soft pastel sticks.
--Opa George
Quote from: Opa George on July 15, 2020, 10:59:16 AM
I have not tried the Pan Pastels. They get rave reviews and I am sure are good. However I really like the soft pastel chalk sticks I use. Got them back in the 1970s from a craft store but can't remember the brand name offhand--I think they were made in England. I'll have to check when I get home. They were cheap (I was dirt poor back then) and last forever.
Last year I bought some artists chalks in earth tones, but did not realize they were hard pastels. They won't stick to my work for love or money, so I gave them to my artist daughter and went back to my soft pastel sticks.
--Opa George
Just remembered I posted a pic of them a few months back as reference. The brand name is Reeves. I just checked and you can still buy these. They have good adherence.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-191118204751.jpeg)
Thanks Opa George! ;) Now I have to go look at the chalks I bought (but haven't yet used because I lean towards the various sets of weathering powders and Pan Pastels on my workbench) to see if they're soft or hard. I wasn't aware of the difference. ;D
THANKS GEORGE - I DIDN'T KNOW I WAS USING SOFT PASTELS - here is what it says in the Dick Blick catalog. Sure enough they are soft pastels. You can learn something new everyday on the forum.
Rembrandt Soft Pastels and Sets
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Zoom[/color]Rembrandt Soft Pastels and Sets[/color]Current price:$4.63 - $956.21
[/color]The history of Royal Talens goes back to 1899. In that year, Marten Talens founded the "Dutch Factory for Paints, Lacquers, and Inks"based in Apeldoorn, Netherlands. Rembrandt Soft Pastels have since become one of the most popular artist pastels in the world. We offer you the full rang...[/color][size=0.75em]+ READ MORE[/size][/font][/color][/size]
Sorry - copy and past got out of control on me in that last post. Wow - the pictures were there when I first posted it.
This is the best Model Railroad Forum!! Thanks all for the responses, I really appreciate everyones feedback, it's interesting to hear about the different options that are out there, and the positive responses. Hope I am not being to much of pest LOL.
-Steven
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on July 15, 2020, 12:59:42 PM
This is the best Model Railroad Forum!! Thanks all for the responses, I really appreciate everyones feedback, it's interesting to hear about the different options that are out there, and the positive responses. Hope I am not being to much of pest LOL.
-Steven
We all strive to be PESTs
Produce
Extraordinary
Scale
Trains
I use Rembrandt pastels , weathering powders from Bragdon and Pan Pastels , all 3 have their different uses . I love Pan Pastels for somewhat hard and plastic like surfaces , the Rembrandts on wood and not so smooth surfaces , and the weathering powders on paper roofing and things like that.
I suggest you get different powders. Take the time to experiment on various surfaces. You will decide which you like best for each applications. If someone asked me to pick one. Hands down Pan Pastels. But once on, pretty much always on. Like anything test is best.
Quote from: Opa George on July 15, 2020, 03:27:26 PM
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on July 15, 2020, 12:59:42 PM
This is the best Model Railroad Forum!! Thanks all for the responses, I really appreciate everyones feedback, it's interesting to hear about the different options that are out there, and the positive responses. Hope I am not being to much of pest LOL.
-Steven
We all strive to be PESTs
Produce
Extraordinary
Scale
Trains
That truly made me laugh out loud.
Great thread. Let me throw my choices into the mix.
For years I used Charvin Pastels. I still have two trays. One of greys and the other has browns to orange-ish to yellows. Which I still use because they are water soluble and produce some fine effects.
About 15 years ago Karl O. turned me onto Sinopia pigments. Because they came in a large-ish bottle I banded together with some friends and we swapped colors. Which was pretty cost effective. They sometimes need a binder to get the best out of them. I still use them but they are a bit trickier.
Nowadays I mostly use Rembrandt's as they already have a good binder for wood.
I've not use PanPastels as they just seem a bit too expensive for what you get. Since they are so popular, at some point I'll probably try them out.
--Rich
Steven,
A word of caution regarding pan pastels. Many (most?) of the sets have one lid. They stack the colors using the bottom of one color for the lid of the next. The lids are available separately. IMO, if you buy the lids, the savings from buying a set are negligible. Individual colors of course have a lid for each. Dick Blick is where I bought mine. I'm still learning how and where to use them so I cannot help you with that.
Hey George:
I have several sets of pastels and also Bragdon Enterprises plastic bottle of colored I suppose artists chalks. Also have Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders set of 12 colors.
Karl