Well, the siren calls were overwhelming and I just had to dig into it. Another misadventure begins.
Nice set of instructions although not in a decent sequence. The color photos are a must and greatly appreciated.
Inside were three thick plastic bags of parts. Generally organized by wood type, one bag had most of the wall sections. Another had a ton of laserboard(?) parts. They did provide a nice set of drawings to indicate parts on each set of laser cut parts as well as individual parts. I started by labeling each part. Then it was a matter of placing all related parts into bags or plastic containers.
Of all the loose parts, only one was broken. I was lucky to find 3 of 4 parts, and glue it back together.
Darn, ran out of attachment allowance.
So I found some thin wood product to add for strength.
As typical, they don't have any bracing material, but do provide 28 corner braces.
Great kit, Bob!
I nearly bought this one many times! I'll be watching your progress.
Cheers, mark.
Will be following along , did this one in N-scale a few years ago. http://janbouli.com/?p=hink.html (http://janbouli.com/?p=hink.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjanbouli.com%2Fimages%2Fgebouwen%2Fhink%2Fhink35.jpg&hash=0f0cbbb6d41de2d4bfaebb0790bc1f4358f78d54)
I'll be following your progress.
Love this kit Bob.....it's on must build soon list.....I'll be looking in. :)
That's a great looking structure/kit. Can't wait to follow along with the build and see what you do with it Bob! :D
Should be a fun build.
Jerry
Glad to have ya'll along for the ride.
I managed to get all the related parts, i.e., all A parts, all F parts, etc. in bags or containers containers where they can be easily located. Each piece or group of pieces labeled and ready to go.
I was concerned over coloring for the model as they do warn that because of many adhesive backed parts, solvent paints should not be used. The typical AI wash could be problematic due to the three different woods used. So, I'll go a different tack. But first, I need to short circuit the instructions a bit as I would like to see how everything fits. This means putting some pieces together a bit early. One really needs to pay attention to orientation of parts. One section has the clapboard on different sides. At first it look weird, but just overlook it for now. It was then I decided I need to add some bracing. I just used some 1/8" square from my stock and hopefully picked correctly as some orientations.
Then on to color. I decided that white was decent enough, so I choose Antique Parchment for the walls and Light Ivory for the trim. Both were applied using a piece of packaging foam and stippled the paint on. Then I went over it all with Dust Bowl Beige powder.
The Light Ivory is, at first bright but gets toned down.
I needed to keep an eye on progress steps, but also the final product. They don't have you add the dry transfer signs until page 23, after the structure has been assembled. I decided to do it while flat. I also needed to add some background for the one side.
There are a ton of windows and louvers. And different styles of each. As I previously mentioned, I put the parts for each in their own containers.
Most windows are double hung and very nicely done. First, Add the exterior casing, centered in the opening. This gives a bit of adhesive for the window parts to hold on to. I found that for adding the "glass" for the upper sash, it was easier if I peeled of the adhesive protective layer half-way to hold it down. The pickup pencil makes it easier to handle the acetate and place it on the upper sash. The lower sash glass, is a bit more difficult, but the adhesive doesn't really grab at first and one has some time to get it even. And oh, the window exterior casings have a top and bottom. There is a horizontal groove on the upper bit.
Here is the main front wall with the windows and louvers in place. A bit about the louvers. They do go in a lot easier than I had expected. Just make sure that the side pieces slant up. Some wall sections need to be marked as to which is up, which will prevent a wrong direction installation. Unlike the windows, the louver frames are added after the louvers are in place.
They include material for boarded up windows, so keep track of those pieces and where you want to use or not.
I'm interested, and will be along for the build. I'm really enjoying these more "complex" builds.
-Steven
Looks great so far Bob.
I like your colour choices, Bob.
Looking good so far.
Cheers, Mark.
It has been so last century since I fiddled with dry transfers and after two moves, couldn't find my burnishing tools. So I made some from a craft stick and used micro brushes. This sign is big enough to hold it down with tape and yet, access all transfer material. For those who haven't done dry transfers, one needs to check on the transfer process, and it is essential not to move the carrier sheet.
The ink is dark before one starts to burnish it and eventually becomes dull once most ink has been transferred. Once I was done, the area was hit with weathering powders.
One item I didn't catch was the windows. I needed to repaint them, two completely and two just the very lower sections, but they got done.
Another section needing dry transfer is the brick wall. This is a printed overlay that looks really good. I will admit that I looked long and hard about not using the brick sheet, but 1) I had no matching wood siding and 2) my attempt of scribing the blank wall was an abject failure. So I 'll use the sheet. I found through a series of dry runs that the best way to get the adhesive sheet exactly whee it needs to be as to stand each piece on end and just make sure the bottoms are even.
The louvers are also well done. The pieces are found scattered among different sheets, so keeping track of the part numbers is a must. I kept all the external casings in a separate container as they get added later. The fit into the side, from the inside is tight. A spot of glue holds these on so the louvers can be added. In hindsight, I should have added the lovers before the glue on the side pieces had dried as the is some up and down play that will show when the external frames are added.
Yes, the third photo shows a wall section (A20 I believe) that gets a louver. Again one needs to pay attention to orientation. The next sides also need to be labeled up/down as the sloped edge is down.
At this point, we need to make a ton more windows. Thankfully, all parts have been painted and weathered.
Very nice job Bob. I haven't tried dry transfers but they look like they could easily turn to kaka .
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 20, 2020, 08:24:45 AM
Very nice job Bob. I haven't tried dry transfers but they look like they could easily turn to kaka .
That is very true.
As a recap, I got the louvers done. A total of thirteen wall panels were involved.
There a couple of plain scribed loading docks and it doesn't take much to jazz them up a bit.
On to more doors. There are three window styles, not counting filled in units. The instructions are clear on what style of windows go where, another reinforcement to label each wall panel. One panel involves a stair platform and handrail that would dictate where the door frame goes. It was just a matter of temporary locating the platform and a piece from the handrail carrier sheet to get the frame so that it does not interfere with any subsequent steps.
The I found the one exterior panel that I missed painting and weathering that needs a door At least this was any easy fix. I think that this panel has enough slots and tabs.
Not quite the kaka moment, but close.
I needed to get the other dry transfer, the easy one, one the printed wall. It would have been easier, if I had done this before the louvers were installed. I put a piece of 1/8 square material between the louvers for strength while rubbing everything down. I wasn't able to tape this one down, so I just held the left end in place. In checking on my progress, I found that the printed brick lines were being transferred to the carrier sheet. Okay, that is a new on on me. By the time I found this, I was mostly done. I changed my method and used the dull end of my tweezers, and staying mostly on the white ink, managed to stop the black lines from coming off. And no, I wasn't able to get the black line off the carrier sheet and back on to the side.
Looking good, Bob.
Louvers look great! Having just spent ages splicing together window shutters to scratch-build mine for my cannery, I'm a bit jealous.
Really enjoying watching your progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Been following along. Great work so far Bob! Those dry transfers sure look like a pain in the ***! I've got this one in the stash. Glad I'll have your build as a guide!
Hey Bob:
Looking great. this is a cool kit. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
Karl
Quote from: mark dalrymple on August 21, 2020, 01:21:16 AM
Looking good, Bob.
Louvers look great! Having just spent ages splicing together window shutters to scratch-build mine for my cannery, I'm a bit jealous.
Really enjoying watching your progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Admittedly, I wasn't looking forward to building those, but, they just about fell togther
This kit has two places where careless truck drivers damaged the siding, showing the interior studs. In case anyone wondered why I didn't go for nail holes, those were the reason. They have no common spacing. One just assembles the bits and bobs and glue it behind the hole in the wall.
Side A21 is the one with the brick overlay. Apparently it is meant to be a feature wall as there are three shadow boxes that get installed. These mainly consist of a detailed adhesive baked sheet over a thicker plain part. One must really pay attention as to how they all go together and I decided to alter the steps a bit so I could get some of the flat work on the wall done first. Below is a door frame set that was a lot easier to get attached (everything has an adhesive backing) with any protrusions out the back.
Here is a receiving hopper that has 21 parts. I added an additional piece to the hopper. I'll let it set overnight before I can attach the frame for the opening.
One thing that I forgot was the painting of the edges of the wall openings. I found raw umber a close match to my weathering powder results, so I belatedly painted these as well.
Bob,
This is a large kit to build and YOU have a great start on this project.
Dick Elwell has this structure on his Hoosac Valley RR. It looks very impressive when completed.
Tommy
Coming along nicely! I am adding this kit to my list of wants.
-Steven
hey Bob:
Looking just great so far. Can't wait to see what you do with the brick walls.
Karl
Thanks all for the kind words.
After I had done the dry transfer on the brick wall, I decided to give it a coat of matte varnish (Dull coat) to protect the transfer. On a lark, I pulled out the transfer backing and did a rub test. No more black line removal occurred. So, in the future, give the wall a spritz of Dull coat before the dry transfer rub. Just don't over do it as it might mess up the adhesive backing.
I'm now at the point of actually assembly. Starting with the office building. They give the builder the option of attaching it or not. The difference is, if attached, parts of the roof cards must be cut off. The cards have a cut line. I don't know, so I'll leave mine as a separate building. They also give the builder the option of installing a wall AC unit. If not, there is a window for the wall opening. This window only goes here and nowhere else. This is a good time to show the little AC unit along with the other metal, plastic and acrylic plastic parts. The major part of the acrylic sheet is for a conveyor. Not sure why thy decided to use this material.
Since I'll be starting to start assembly, it was time to paint all the trim boards.
With glue and paint drying, I jumped ahead and started on the tar paper covered shack addition. They provide all the tar paper already marked for the battens. The instructions have one build the three-sided shack, then add the paper, but, I found it easier to paper first, then glue. The suggest to use a wall piece to aid in the glue set up, and it worked slick. Just remember not to glue the shack to the wall. I also added the roof temporarily to also aid in ensuring everything stayed square. The shack's roofing is also marked for ease of adding battens
I cleaned up all the detail parts and spray primed them.
Then on to the brick wall. Luckily, I have a multicolored pad of construction paper and red was a close match to the wall. So I was able to play around a bit with coloring. I used a used brick powder to tone down the wall and sign, Then I went to a white Pan Pastel for a bit of paint run off. I better call it quits on this wall, until I get close to having it planted.
hey Bob:
Walls looks just great so far.
Karl
Looking great, Bob.
I really like the exposed framework - a very cool feature. Your making great progress.
Cheers, Mark.
I spent the afternoon on the office and tar paper shack.
The office roof is a bit different as the roof pitch is formed by 2 triangular formers attached to the underside if the roof. In the photo one can see where the roof would need to be cut off if the office is to be attached to the main mill building. The tar paper roofing is pre-cut, in order and was a breeze to install. I did add the barge boards first as the roofing paper was a couple of thousandths short.
When I test fit the roof, the overhangs were neither equal nor square. It seems that the placement of the tabs and notches were off for one corner. The upper left hand one.
Then it was on to the tar paper shack. Again, fairly simple. For the roof, I did add pencil lines to make adding the battens much easier. Since I had glued the side together, these went littler slower, but not too bad. I just need to weather this a bit to knock down the shine.
One thing I wish that kit builders would do if corner trim was to be added, is to make one wider than the other. i.e. make one a 4" and the other a 6".
Now it is onto starting the main building rear section. There is a add-on to which the tar paper shack attaches to on one end. It also takes the last two sets of sliding doors, with one side having a dock.
A fairly straight forward. Start with the pitched roof and adding rafter tails. Really different method, but it seems to work. Then one adds the interior formers and let dry.
The loading dock was the typical laser cut decking adhered to a wood base. Again fairly straight forward. The main thing is to dry fit the cut support pieces into the wall as they are tight. A little bit of filing was needed on every cut out. They all got glued on and while that was setting up, I added the dock. And that is when disaster struck.
The dock supports have two tabs and I checked one. On the wall. The other fit into a cutout in the dock base. The tabs are too tall for the dock to set down flat. I didn't do a dry test fit on this piece. Big mistake. The grain on the support pieces run vertical and it doesn't take a lot of pressure for these to disintegrate. Only 2 of the 7 made it through in one piece. Luckily, the support system was basically 6x6 and 2x6 sizing, so I made replacement pieces from the fragments and stock shapes.
Hey Bob:
This is coming along very nicely. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Whoo hoo, starting to get the min building out together. First up the addition. It's not all that often that I can use these magnetic corner jigs. I used the next building section to aid in keeping it square.
Then, finally, got a start on the main building. I might just run out of work room to get this all together. Meaning, I need to clean my desk top.
With the expectation of large scale rolled roofing on the horizon, I cut the provided pieces into 33.3 foot lengths. Once I start the roofing process, any cut offs from one row will be used to start the next row. Here I just used a piece of tape as a stop and marked the cut off point on the mat and dove right in. All end pieces are darkened with a black Sharpie.
Main building assembly continued. Here is the rear "train" loading bay. This whole are will be inaccessible once a roof goes on, so any track work and ballast will need to be considered now.
My stopping point this pm I am making good use of the provided corner braces and for the first time using Aileen's Tacky Glue. Thicker than everything else that I have used. I found one unfilled window opening. Thankfully, it is to be a boarded up window, so that shouldn't be all the bad to add.
Ever notice how one's work area slowly shrinks to the point it just barely accommodates the project one is working on? I am using an old Sauder computer desk and my working area is a little over 2 sq. ft.
Bob,
Wow, that is one large structure and it looks great. You are doing a fantastic job on the build. Looking forward to the rest.
Tom ;D
Great Job , don't you just love all the corners and rooflines , such a great kit.
Really coming together nicely, Bob.
I love the little tar paper building. That came out very well.
Cheers, Mark.
Very nice so far Bob.
Man that looks like a complicate kit. I have it, too but haven't touched it, yet. I'm glad you're blazing the trail, Bob. I'm enjoying watch you bring it to life.
Thanks for the support all.
Started on the roof, but did the main front loading dock. There are 8 parts that'll all et covered over by the roof. I did make a mistake on labeling these parts. It is hard to see, but the right hand bracket actually goes to the left. It has a wider notch to accept the slanted support piece.
The on to the roofs. They all fit really well with a couple a bit fiddly. It was more of a matter of figuring out any overhang and them paint it before gluing down. The first photo is from the rear. It should be noted that the upper left roof piece isn't glued down yet. It is used to help a funky front wall section set up in proper place.
The last photo is from the front and now, all roof cards have been glued down. This building is as I thought, huge. Basically 12" square and close to that tall, and I have two additions to go on the rear.
By now the instructions call for the other front dock door canopy to be installed, but me being as ham-handed as I can be at times, I'll wait a while to install it when I should be apt to knock it off.
Really coming great Bob. Thanks for all of the construction pics.
With most of the roof sections in place, they made a point of adding this precut bit of roofing. Then there are these pieces that are to simulate the lap siding.
The head house is added along with a bunch of small bits and bobs here and there. And while those are all drying, I added some stiffeners to this small bit of roof. There is a bunch of parts such as this throughout the build.
Then while that is drying, I moved on to the elevator. Be careful as it has a slanted base that will sit on a side roof. I am not a fan of these multi-layer bits as I can never get them square. I also waited to color this piece as I needed to ensure that I didn't foul any overlays with powders.
Now the roof is done. First up, the right front quarter. The open gap is to be covered with a canopy. Strange that there is no all/roof piece for this gap. Chances are one will not be able to see the missing bit, unless one wanted to light this area. Then it would need to be filled in.
Next is the left front quarter.
Then the left rear quarter. The raised "house" right hand section was a bear as you had to add the little square lover section to the wall, the wall has to meet with the rear wall notches and notches in the roof. Then add the little roof bit.
The right rear quarter is perhaps the plainest part of the mill. The little bit on the "house" roof is just sitting there in it's notches while the glue is drying on the four piece that make it up. It is the surest way to ensure that it is square and will fit as required.
Now, I get to start laying tar paper.
Coming on a treat, Bob!
It sure is one impressive looking kit.
Cheers, Mark.
Great looking build.
Before I can do the roofing, I need to add all the trim pieces. I probably could have done just the roof trim, but decided tha I better do it all at once. There are close to 50 trim pieces, most on this card. And all self-adhesive.
So, on this back wall there are two pieces of trim for the left portion of the wall. I would think that bother should have gone all the way up to the top, but both stopped at the roof. I now know what sections of wall that I need to touch-up. And if you look real close you can make out a wall section that I missed painting altogether.
Now that that is done, I can start roofing! There are a bunch of holes in the roof. One can use as many as one wants. Just cover up any unused holes. I'll use 'em all. The roof section on the right had special cut pieces just for it.
So, it came time to stop and I took a bit of inventory of roof deck and roofing material. I think I'm going to need a paper stretcher. It looks like I was missing half of what was needed. I have distributed the roofing around to get an idea of how short of material I am. At least I have some black construction paper available. But first, I'll look around to see if I mislaid (highly unlikely) any provided material.
Well, I was right. I had roofing material missing. Basically about the equivalent to a sheet and a half of construction paper. My black construction paper was more on the purple side, so I had to spray paint t with black sandable primer.
With the shortage, I found some replacements, such as 60 grit sandpaper for the small flat roof piece.
I started with a full sheet of painted construction paper, cut into 3'x33' lengths and fell a half sheet short. I had thought about using transfer tape, but that is real unforgiving and there were several fiddly sections, so I just used good old Elmers.
Once the roof is all done, then I can go back and add overhead canopies, and detail parts such as a ton of smoke stacks.
And oh, I found that my initial concern was confirmed. Add the roof trim pieces, then the roofing, and then add the corner trim pieces. It'll make life a bit easier.
Boy that's quite a project. It's going to be really neat when you're done though Bob. :D
Finally got the roofing done and added the smoke stacks. They provide tar paper flashing for each one. Its going to take a while to "tar" all the joints.
There is a ladder for the elevator that is assembled in an interesting way. The rungs are on a sticky back material and one adds the side pieces. Add a drop of glue at each side rail/rung junction. When dry, cut the excess of the outside side rail, leaving one with a decent looking wood ladder.
Looking good, Bob.
Enjoying watching you bring this behemoth of a kit to life.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, it is huge.
This little ladder in the back was a royal pain. There is the landing that gets glued in, a lower bracket to hold the stair stringers, and slots in the roof that the stringers plug into. Because the roof slopes, each stringer goes in a specific slot. Problem is, I couldn't get the stinger into the slots in the landing and the roof at the same time. In hind sight, the platform suld have been added after the stringers have been installed as it's slots would just drop down over the top of the stringers. With the stair treads having a sticky back, I glued in the stringers and then the lower treads and let that set up before adding the other treads. Once I got the other treads on, glued them all down so the hand rail could be installed. And to get that in, I had to remove the upper vertical piece. But it all worked out.
The ladder was attached to the elevator. Note: the ladder has to be dead on in width the fit in the platform slots and lower bracket. I t would have been a lot easier if I had made a couple of spacers to keep the side rails at the proper spacing. This is a great looking assembly once attached to the roof.
Of the numerous castings are two weigh scales. I found an on line image of an old Toledo scale and printed the face.
Now it was on to the storage tower. I need to color the parts with weathering powders before I get too far and I try to find where the various parts go, how they are oriented, etc., to determine if I need to color both sides or not. So I came across these two parts, T25, and I be darned if I can find them anywhere. Oh well, I guess I'll run int them eventually.
What a great looking structure Bob, I am really jealous , the H0 version has so many details the N-scale lacks.
Quote from: Janbouli on September 06, 2020, 05:10:52 AM
What a great looking structure Bob, I am really jealous , the H0 version has so many details the N-scale lacks.
Thanks, and yes, sometimes being in a larger scale has it's advantages.
I got going on the grain tower. First up was figuring out which parts are two sided so I can color both sides. I'm going to use weathered brown. The first item is adding louvers. And since these will be flush with the front side, it is important to remove any little nibs. Quite noticeable initially, then the location almost disappears after sanding. Then add the slats and let sit.
The tower is a bit different as one assembles the body with adhesive side out. Then add the long sides first as they have slots which aids in placement.
Interesting part.
The remaining parts go together much like a Japanese puzzle box. I just wish I knew that ahead of time. The secret is to do one side at a time. The bottom bin braces need just a spot of glue in the middle to hold them in place. I glued the entire length and let dry. Then prepare the horizontal pieces and legs. Add the legs first, mind the order, getting the braces up tight to them. Then add the horizontal parts, adjusting the legs and braces as you go. I was off just a hair and made my life miserable.
The tower roof is to be tin. They supply a self-adhesive paper to make this. I thought about using corrugated or standing seam metal, but decided to use what was provided for a change. I opted to color this a neutral grey using pan Pastels, after it was all assembled.
The bottom slope sheets have a lot going on. the lower horizontal piece has notches for the thin braces and legs, with no room for error. I would up batting .500. But some filing, I got everything to fit.
At this point they want the ladder installed, but I advise against it. The tower gets mounted with ti legs going through square holes in the roof. This takes a bunch of futzing and the ladder would be in the way of my fat fingers. There will be a auger mounted under the tower that fits into the larger rectangular hole in the roof.
But before mounting. I need to color the legs that didn't get it earlier.
Looks great so far.
Hey Bob:
that is coming along quite nicely. Can't wait for more pics.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on September 08, 2020, 01:53:45 PM
Hey Bob:
that is coming along quite nicely. Can't wait for more pics.
Karl
I'll see what I can do.
I'm fooling around with using internet images for the grain bags. These have been primed and my first go around with just gluing them one. My next attempt will be using larger images that will wrap around the sides more.
The grain tower has 8 of these "pots" that slip on the legs and will self adhere to the roof. I guess to cover the roof openings. The legs are square, but these pots are rectangular, so ensure that the log side goes with the roof and be angled.
So here is the tower, a pipe, and a pipe support structure all having to be fiddled with all the while trying to get the tower legs into the roof holes. Not to mention that the pots keep slipping down. These are one of the few items that fit loosely, everything else was tight. You may notice that I decided against using the pots. Just way too much of a hassle. But the tower is glued down. Tomorrow, I can do the final fit on the pipe to the tower.
I also need to cut some gaterfoam to size so I can add the other sections of the building. I'll just be using double sided tape to hold it in place for handling purposes. AT least that is the plan.
Looks like I'll be able to get this posted before we lose power again. The third time a charm.
Beautiful, Bob.
Those little 'feet' to hide any discrepancies in the rooftop legs are a good idea.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 09, 2020, 03:00:34 PM
Beautiful, Bob.
Those little 'feet' to hide any discrepancies in the rooftop legs are a good idea.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks. And Yes, they should do a good job of hiding mistooks, while looking like they were designed for another purpose.
Now it was time to add the pesky ladder on the tower. But of course, there is an issue. The rail bottoms aren't even because of the sloped roof. But they are designed backwards. The illustration shows the correct orientation, but the template is off. Not by much. No biggie, a quick snip of the tip,and voila.
I am liking doing the photo overlay on the plastic sacks. I find that the important dimension for scaling is the width. It should go around the sides, but all the way around. The camera makes them a lot more rough than they look. I'll do just enough for the top sacks and apply the overlay on the sides only of the lower sacks.
I decided that a 18x24 piece of gator foam would work as a base. It has enough extra room for roads, track, etc.
So here is where I'm at at present.
The first shot is of the rear of the building. The "tunnel" has two interior docks, each with a dock floor that is inset. It is designed for a track access, but one could just as easily make it for trucks. There is a casting that is an auger, to fit between the tracks for dumping grain and sending it to the tower.
I noticed that I need to add the steps, which I had left off for handling.
The front has a beam up by the roof peak for hoisting whatever. I'm not sure to where as there are no doors. One extra bit of detail that could be added to the louvers, would have been window screening, mainly for the upper open areas.
The next side is rather plain, which is why I added the "extra dock canopy" over the first dock door. The grain spout is interesting. Too short and weirdly placed for box car loading and a bit tall for trailer loading. I need to weather this, but the glue was still drying.
The back building also need to be a bit weathered, but they were just glued on. You can now see why these weren't added earlier.
Not shown is the office building. Which could have been added under the yellow sign. At ground level.
Fantastic build Bob , I love big buildings especially when done so well.
Gorgeous build. Very well done.
Bob,
I really like the look of this kit and how you painted and weathered the entire structure.
Very well done and fun to follow along as well.
Tom ;D
Looks great, Bob.
Interesting from all angles and a real eye catcher. It must be one of the biggest kits out there. Looking forward to watching you plant it on your diorama.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you all. This is the biggest structure that I have ever built and finding a place for it will require me building a second deck and I haven't even finished building the first level. My railroad is limited to a 24" depth and this is 18". We'll see.
So for now, I have the extra detail parts with it and the whole shebang sitting on some mainline track around the corner.
So, the final shots include the placement of various bags that have a paper overlay. Well nuts, I see I missed an edge to paint. I'll fix it before long.
But first, I really, really need to clean up my work area. And this doesn't show three wire storage racks of stuff behind my chair.
I like what you did with the sacks, I'm stealing that idea. ;D The whole structure looks great.
Jeff