I am looking at trying to put this little bugger together. However, I found that my set of instructions are mixed. I have a full set that goes from preamble through step 21, but these appear to be basic. Then there is another set that begins with the last paragraph of step 11 through step 29. Two different sets of detail sheets using the same detail numbers, but for different items.
Anyone have a full set of instructions for EHD-201a? I'm guessing it would go straight through through steps 29 with different detail sheets. There are two kit versions, a and b. The main difference is the "a" kit has 125 castings while the "b" kit has 41.
I did contact the folks at EHD and found out that yes, I am missing one full sheet. Hopefully I can get it in short order.
This kit is actually a two-fer. One section can be a stand alone structure, the Emporium. The second section, Shenandoah Crossing is a gas station and garage. They even separate instruction sheets.
So whats in the box? First up 22 baggies of castings. Three different types of roofing - Shingles, corrugated metal, and rolled roofing (sandpaper). There are two colored cards for the "paint" on the walls. And some nice signs.
Then there are templates, A ton of templates. Some are patterns, some are roof decks, side walls, but some are wood siding cutting patterns. The patterns were to be overlaid on the precut siding and as you cut out the pattern, the wood is cut simultaneously. Um, no. Some patterns weren't square and I wanted to start some walls with a full piece of lap.
Then there is a piece of cleat acetate for windows and a nicely gold printed Emporium sign. But wait. There''s more.
Bob,
Great timing on my part. I arrived in time for a front row seat! I've always been enamored with this kit, but it doesn't come close to typical for the area I model. Now I get to live vicariously thru your thread. So looking forward to your build!
See all those lines on the patterns? Those are for placing 2x4's. The guidelines are dashed as they indicate the 2x4s go on the backside. The separate wood bundle is all 2x4s.
After two days of cutting out the patterns, I got 'er all cut. Next up transferring all those lines to the correct side of the walls. And yes, even using masking tape on the backside, I managed to break off some thin areas.
One thing that is going to get interesting, is that the siding is mainly 1/32" thick. Considering the amount of interior detail parts, the roof is going to be removable, so no obvious bracing. So, I'll go weathering powders/chalk for "paint" on the walls. Interior wood framing, I'll leave natural wood. In the big world, studs not exposed to daylight for 20-30 years will remain a light color, so no A&I bath. And with the walls being thin, none for them either.
More card stock for roof decks and foundations plus a lightly embossed sheet of concrete block. This will be replaced.
On a good note, the Emporium patterns are numbered while the Crossing parts are identified by letters. However, not all are identified on the plan sheet. It took a little while to figure what the extra numbered/lettered parts were for.
Thankfully, they did include an inventory of detail parts as I had no idea what some were. For example, there is a coat tree. It took awhile to figure that one out. Same for a water cooler. These appear to be SSLtd parts, so I can reference what they should look like.
Because of the extra steps needed just to get a wall part, extra care is need to ensure that opposing walls are the same length and height. Same when adding the 2x4s at the end of walls. Some are to be inset, while others need to be flush the end.
This kit has no corner posts. Not sure as yet, if I'll add my own or not.
I am sure getting my money's worth from the Geoffrey Bishop squaring jig. It works perfectly to aid in alignment for transferring lines, adding nail holes, etc. I did cut up an old cutting mat so I could cut on the jug without dulling the knives as fast.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 30, 2020, 10:51:30 PM
Bob,
Great timing on my part. I arrived in time for a front row seat! I've always been enamored with this kit, but it doesn't come close to typical for the area I model. Now I get to live vicariously thru your thread. So looking forward to your build!
Glad to have you along. I understand, your reluctance as many decent kit manufacturers seem to favor the east coast or multistory buildings.
I originally wanted to change the siding to brick, but all brick sheets are 1/8", way to thick for this use. But as I model Midwest, there were a ton of small town wooden, false front buildings, so I decided it was time for me to build this kit. I can tell, it'll be ugly.
Looks to be a tricky little kit. Job well done so far. Following along!
I'm following along.
Gee, I missed this one some how. Glad I found it. Looks like quite a challenge and neat looking structure. I'm along for the ride. ;)
Looks like a great kit, Bob - with a good amount of metal castings.
As an aside, Wills do brick siding in several different bonds which would be no more than 1/16" in thickness. You get four sheets in a packet 5 1/4" by 3". Being English it is OO scale so the bricks are slightly oversized, but personally I don't think you notice (bricks come in different sizes anyway). They paint and weather up very well.
I'll be watching your progress on this one - might even check out the kit.
Cheers, Mark.
The N Scale Architect has thin styrene brick sheets for HO in several different bond styles.
dave
I need to acknowledge the time and assistance of Ken Bettis, owner of Evergreen Hills design LLC. He came up with the revised instructions for the Emporium. I was missing one page, but it was easier just to e-mail me the whole bunch. He did mention that he was looking into reproducing this kit, but it would be laser cut.
I fiddled with coloring. Light colors of Pan Pastels or weathering powders, such as white is hard to show up on bare wood. I did find that by first spraying on a coat of Dullcoat, helps. And after each color application, spray more Dullcoat,, add more color, spray on Dullcoat, etc. until satisfied with the color depth. Most of the color swatches shown are pan pastels. Only the white were dullcoated. I was going to have the Emporium a weathered white with gray windows, but then I remembered that the inside is going to be seen, so the window interiors need to be white. I'll now use a gray for the body and white for the windows (including interior window trim). Thanks goodness for all the trim pieces that allow me to test out coloring.
The Crossing will have a darker front while the garage will be browns, inside and out.
So, now's the time to add the 2x4 framing. There's top and bottom plates, window and door framing, blocking, etc. The provide the placement lines that was transferred to the reverse side of the walls. I found it was better to start at one end and work your way across, so that small triangles can be use to ensure vertical orientation. Two of the garage walls have the 2x4s gong to the edges, which requires the other two walls to have their 2x4s fall a scale 7" short. It was more of a matter of framing the full width wall, and use it to determine the inset of the other two walls. I forgot just how tedious this all was. Here is one final wall. And now that I look at it, I wonder how hard would it be to actually add the window headers and jack studs? On the other hand, the typical 2x10 headers probably weren't used back then and it's too late to add the jack studs. Most likely for the best.
Bob,
Adding the studs is tedious, but looks great. I agree with your comment about the non-use of headers in older construction. When I applied new sheathing to my 120+ year old house there were no headers above the windows, and only a couple 2x4's spiked together over the doors. You are putting a lot of effort into this and I'm enjoying my look over your shoulder.
The framing looks great.
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are off to a good start. I'm following along.
Karl
Continued with framing. Slowly discovering some issues that I needed to address. First up was the garage roof. false front framing interface. As it designed, with a removable roof, the roof edge would hit the 2x4s that make up the false front framing on the back. Forming a pocket. And it bothers me to no end. The solution was to add a second slanted 2x4, spaced 2" from the other. Then add the vertical pieces. The intent is that this new piece will form a meeting edge. When the shingles and this are get a coating of "tar" the space should disappear. To some extent.
There is another joint just like this on the other roof, but a bit more problematic. There is a set of templates that make up a roof former to hold the two roof section together. Unfortunately, the instructions have one put the walls together and then tweak the templates for a better fit. But I can't put the walls together until I figure out the joint where the roof meets the walls. Stay tuned.
Bob,
Nice start on what looks like a really interesting and intricate kit.
When you mentioned the thickness of the walls at 1/32, I immediately thought of how you would handle interior lighting, if you are adding it. My experience with that thickness of wall material is that, for me, the interior light showed through the wall as if it was paper. Maybe I used a light that was too bright, though. I used the Woodland Scenics Just Plug lights.
Looking forward to hanging out and watching your build!
--Opa George
Bob,
Clever solution to where the roof meets the wall.
Hey Bob:
Looks great. keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Neat looking kit Bob.....I'll be looking in. :)
Let's see where was I. Oh yeah, adding 2x4's. Still at it. I will admit, that once a wall has been framed it becomes fairly stiff. I'm impressed.
So, as I mentioned, in keeping with reducing all water based stuff off the walls, the kit provided two 5x8 colored cards I choose the green one for the gas office walls. I used transfer tape to adhere the card to the wall and then trimmed as necessary. I have left the continuous bottom plate in place until the wall gets installed. The reverse side of this wall is garage interior and bathroom. The kit includes a toilet, sink, sink waste pipe, two handled faucet set, a wall sconce, and mirror. To aid in mounting the sink, I added some blocking. Not sure how to add a reflective surface to the mirror. Oh wait. I do have some metal duct tape. Hmmm, Might work.
To ensure that opposing walls have the same dimensions, I placed them so I can ensure that the framing matches at the ends so when those walls get attached, the building is square. And once I had the lower wall done, I added a weight for over nite curing. I should mention that the block gets used after each 2x4 is added. It helps keep things flat.
I should note that there were three group sizes of 2x4s. One group went from 0.018 - 0.020", another 0.021 - 0.023", and the last at 0.021 - 0.26. Believe it or not, these are readily noticeable after the first dozen or so I managed to keep the last group relegated to framing, There will be other uses for the thinnest of the group for interior trimming.
Nice looking work Bob,
For a nice reflective surface you might take a tip from the auto modelers and use Bare metal Foil.
Doug
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are moving right along. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on December 07, 2020, 07:06:32 PM
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are moving right along. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
This thing is dragging on. So the bathroom details even include a toilet paper roll dispenser and soap holder. So, there is a sink with drain line, including a p-trap, so I need to add a waste vent stack. That and since the interior is to be shown, I need to paint the insides of the windows and be really neat on the "glass". That and add interior window trims and baseboards.
To determine where the roof will fall on the other two sides, I needed to cut out and assemble the roof form template. Really cleaver way of doing it. Then it is a matter of locating where the roof angle was going to hit them. However, the larger of the two walls shown, goes in at an angle and it to be fitted after all other walls are glued together. And plan on it needing to be cut to fit. Sigh.
The partition wall between the garage and office is a puzzler. Why a short wall? No idea. It's just how it was designed. The instructions have one install 2x6 trim around the door. 2x6? The wall is 8" thick. So a 1x8 will work better. Then it calls for a piece of 2x12 for a counter. Okay, 1x12 it is. Then I felt the need to frame the opening. 1x4 to the rescue. I see that I need to fill in some gaps here and there. That and locate some calendars and assorted wall objects de arte.
IN the mean time, I really needed to figure out wall colors. So I found a scrap pieces of siding and tested out various colors, both with out and with A&I. Obviously, the A&I just darkened the pan pastel or weathering powders. Pan pastels on the top two rows and the weathering powder in the single row below.
All the bare wall sections have been sprayed with a dullcoat to seal the wood before coloring. This evens out the coloring.
I have also been cleaning some of the metal parts. It took me awhile to figure out what this pile of parts was to become.
A three shelf bookcase
Like seeing this come together, Bob.
And 22 bags of castings!? I think you could open a side business with that!
Bob,
Evergreen Hill Designs is the one manufacturer I've never built a kit from. All their kits had loads of casting, clean and sharp if I remember correctly.
I'm now on the bandwagon to following along on this adventure. Nice start even with all the required building steps.
Tom ;D
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are still at it. Looking good.
Katl
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 09, 2020, 05:54:40 PM
Bob,
Evergreen Hill Designs is the one manufacturer I've never built a kit from. All their kits had loads of casting, clean and sharp if I remember correctly.
I'm now on the bandwagon to following along on this adventure. Nice start even with all the required building steps.
Tom ;D
I originally thought the castings were from SSTLtd, but was politely informed that they were theirs. Oops. They both offer some of the same detail parts that I had to refer to, to figure out how some of the parts fit together. Most parts are fairly clean, but some molds are starting to show their age.
I have their 1930's Gas Station, yet to be built.
Hi Bob, what a nice job on all of the framing work. It's all looking great. Jeff
Quote from: nycjeff on December 12, 2020, 04:23:00 PM
Hi Bob, what a nice job on all of the framing work. It's all looking great. Jeff
Thanks Jeff.
Been hard at work, albeit, a bit slow.
I got most of the toilet parts installed. I can't install the commode until it gets a floor installed. I installed the waste line and vent lines. Just brass rods that I had . But when I installed the mirror, most of it disappeared.
I hated the backside of the metal windows with the acetate showing and all. So I added the typical framing that would accompany said windows.
I'm probably going to hate myself, but I just couldn't wait to get the wall together. The "facilities" will have two walls to enclose the area, one of which has the toilet paper roll already installed.
I needed to see how the bookcase was going to go together. Five interlocking pieces with a top and bottom to be attached. I found that I could just one end vertical and get one shelf ACC'ed on it. Then worked my way down and only then could I add the top and bottom bits. As much as I hate ACC, it was the only stuff to hold the metal together. I will need to find some thin plastic for the back.
Here is a shot of adding weathering powder showing the bad adhesion to wood glue. But after a lite spray of Dullcoat, it aids in overcoming the slick glue film.
With the floor now glued on, I can add two front walls. One a short straight piece and the other is on a slant that will have to be cut in to fit.
Beautiful modeling Bob.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 15, 2020, 08:53:40 AM
Beautiful modeling Bob.
Thanks. This sucker is testing my patience.
Looking good, Bob.
One thing I noticed - I can understand a window fitted between two studs not having a sill trimmer and lintel, but I would think the double window would need both. Otherwise there would be no strength in the top and bottom jack studs, and also no nailing for both exterior cladding and interior lining.
Cheers, Mark.
With the floor glued, I could add more to the toilet. I decided not to add the seat lid. They weren't used all that much in commercial settings anyway. There is a towel rack on the yet-to-be-installed wall. I just need to convert some tissue paper into a towel.
I did manage to complete the bookcase. I am loving the Army Painter color primer Leather Brown rattle can spray. I made a plastic back for the bookcase and held the can back a bit which added to a splatter pattern.
I used the same primer to paint the underside for the roof former and eaves. With the roof being removable, the former makes sense. The right side will have 320 grit sandpaper for rolled roofing, while the left side will have Campbell shingles. All will be held on with transfer tape.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on December 17, 2020, 09:07:05 PM
Looking good, Bob.
One thing I noticed - I can understand a window fitted between two studs not having a sill trimmer and lintel, but I would think the double window would need both. Otherwise there would be no strength in the top and bottom jack studs, and also no nailing for both exterior cladding and interior lining.
Cheers, Mark.
I agree. But at this point I decided just to use the 2x4 as directed.
I was finally able to get to the point of adding the last 90 degree wall. Now I can add the pesky angled wall. This took some amount of trimming and a ton of sanding to get it to look like a decent fit. That and being able to determine where the roof will meet the exterior false front framing. I need to add the colored card, baseboard, color the exterior wall, entry door and add two large windows that I just about tossed across the room. And oh, I'll need to add all the interior trim around the door and windows.
Looking really good Bob.
The last false front for the Crossing has been sanded and seem to fit. So, It got it's coloring and windows. The windows are metal and somewhat delicate as it's mass will cause it to bend if you hold it wrong. It didn't take paint very well. I might have to invest in some of the Vallejo spray paints. Anyway, I added the color card, using transfer tape, and lined the window openings with 2x4s. Then the window was set in. I guess I should mention that I couldn't get these pieces to accept the acetate very well. Canopy glue just got everywhere. So, I flooded the windows with canopy glue. Looks like bull pucky, but I don't have any replacement options. Good thing it'll be under a canopy. I continued with the interior window frames and framed in the door as well. Hmm, I didn't take a photo of that.
On the exterior wall, one is to add 2x4s on edge for a window surround. Um no. Looking at the door, I framed the windows to mimic the cast door. I did add a 2x4 on edge for the window stool.
Speaking of stools, I did finish the toilet by adding walls. I did make some towels from tissue paper painted with some green paint. and then glued to the towel bar.
Then on to something more relaxing. Furniture assembly. So there are 7 pieces for the desk, with no clear direction on assembly. From test fitting, it appears that the desk top is too deep. There doesn't appear to be any back overhang, excessive front overhang doesn't make sense, so I sanded it so that the side panels are flush with the front. Some spray primer and detail painting, this should be done. Not real sure where it goes, but I'll have it ready to go.
Wow! That is one complex looking structure with a lot of neat details. Wonderful job Bob. Simply wonderful. ;D
Bob,
Great job on a difficult kit. Love all the casting. As Karl says, "Keep the pics coming."
Tom ;D
Excellent modeling Bob.
Hello Bob, this kit is sure testing your patience, but you are doing a great job with it. Love all the details. Jeff
Wow. I love the details. Did they all come with the kit? Wonderful job so far.
Bob, Tom, Curt, and Jeff thanks for the comments. And yes, it is testing me.
I needed to add the cap to the shingle section of the roof, I used the wrapping from some industrial Scott paper towels. And yes, they are brown. Probably 40 years ago, our office supply was discontinued and they pretty much let us take what we wanted. Primarily to save the cost of shipping it all back north. So yes, I have kept the package all this time. I picked 14" for a width and 19" for the length. Just did the typical cut the width, fold in half and then cut to length on the Chopper.
While I was on the roof, I located and drilled a hole for a piece of brass rod for the waste vent stack. Eventually, it'll get a coating of black paint.
I added a wall clock, world map, a couple of calendars to the interior walls. Too bad I can't get a decent photo. But I did manage to add the toilet door. It's just made up of kit scrap.
I didn't like the kit provided embossed paper block, so I dug into my Holgate and Reynolds stash and cut a precious piece. I'll attack it tomorrow.
I'll also need to sit down and reread the instructions again. I must have gotten way out of sequence as it looks like they want the exterior wooden walkway installed next. What I noticed is that there is a foundation for this section, but it doesn't include the walkway. That means it'll be hanging in the air before it gets installed. That can't be right. I'll figure it out tomorrow.
Great progress Bob..... 8)
Nice job on getting all those angles of the roof to line up...
Doug
I missed this one Bob. Very nice work.
Jerry
Thanks guys.
I decided to go ahead and use the wooden walkway. My plan to convert it to concrete was going to be a lot more fiddly that I want right now. One just cuts out the template and wood pieces. I labeled each piece and also labeled the drawing to remove any doubt as to placement. At this stage, one also cuts out where each of the scale 4x4 posts are to go. If I had to do it over again. I'd make sure that they would have been inset by 1/8". More on this later.
Then it is a simple (not) matter of gluing them place to the neighboring floor section. Once that is done, 2x12 supports are added. To keep the building level at this stage, one makes up a box out of 2x12s as well as shown in detail 5. No direction as to size. But it will have to fit inside the rear section of the foundation (that gets built later on). I built mine early, so I had a clue on how big I could go. Then there are some additional walkway bracing to be added. Let 'er all set up.
With the walkway done, it was time to do the roof. Typical cards with dashed lines showing where 2x4s get place on the other side. I merely copied the placement on the brown side. I did add extra 2x4s at where the sections meet and drew a line where the cards should overlap 4x4s mounted on the walls as roof supports. This gave me a stop area. The supports were cut on an angle but all required further trimming, Being cardboard, even the little bit of glue for the wood pieces cause it to warp. So, as soon as practical, I added a weight until it was dry.
Then while the roof pieces was drying, I added some of the support posts. Here, it would have made my life a lot easier if I had spaced them 1/8" from the front edge. I could have ensured a more perpendicular orientation had I done so, by using a 1/8" piece if bracing. It is a simple matter of pushing the walkway up to a vertical 1x2x3 block and checking the distance at the top of the post. But, I didn't. So it required constant checking as the glue dried to ensure that the vertical posts were in line with any of the vertical scribing. Good old geometry to the rescue.
I managed to get all the underside 2x4s in place and then gave id spritz of spray paint. Mainly to seal the cardboard.
While that was drying, I attempted to build the chest coke machine. A piece of balsa to be cut to size and glued together and then shaped. Yeah, right. I ran out of balsa trying to get it right.
So, back to the roof. Got it glued on. This roof was supposed to be more tar paper, but since the rear loading dock is corrugated, I decided to do this one as well, First up cutting the Campbell strip to 2'3" wide and then to length. Then on to paint.
Then on to the shingles. A while back David Emery mentioned the use of Deluxe Materials Super 'Phatic glue. I had used it on wood to wood, but thought it might work on metal and porous materials. And sure enough it works like a charm and sets up quicker than Canopy glue. I just needed to use a micro brush to spread it where I wanted it to go.
Now it's a bit of working on all the detail parts and futzing with the foundation.
Everything looks great Bob.
Hey Bob:
Looks just great. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Curt and Karl. Thanks
Been busy working on detail parts. I found a couple of old scout arrow shafts, cut then down, and then drilled in some appropriate sized holes to hold them. I use some fast grab Aleenes to hold the part on the end. Really helps in painting the teeny bits.
And of course, more chairs to assemble. I did spot the one leg that tried to splay out. I hate ACC. The glue, that is.
For a break, I decided now was as good as time as ever to build the Emporium section. As mentioned before, this kit has the option of building both as a unit or as separate buildings. First up was cutting the parts out and then the various openings.
The Emporium is the section on the left. Once cut out, you need to check to ensure that opposing sides are the same length and that the middle wall will fit between the side walls. It didn't at first. I found that the left and right walls were a bit long when measured against the drawing. I decide not to cut them down, I'll see if that was a mistake or not later.
When starting this kit, it came apparent that I was missing some instructions. I e-mailed Evergreen Hill and Ken Bettis sent me a draft set of instructions for the Emporium. We figured out that I was missing the first page or about 12 steps. He is looking into reissuing the kit, but in a laser cut version. Very nice customer service, especially since this kit is probably 30 years old. If not more.
That's the kind of service that keeps customers loyal to a manufacturer.....anyone in the business should keep that in mind. :)
Lovely progress. I love all the details in this kit. I will have to keep my eye out for it...
Slow going here. Do a little casting painting and do a bunch of 2x4 framing, painting, framing. et al.
Then there was an issue of decifering what all the furniture placement dashed lines referred to. Especially since there is an opening and door leading to a rear store room. What goes there? Why an opening into an exposed framed room from one that has finished walls? Again Ken responded and he wasn't sure, but all my queries will be incorporated into the next kit iteration. He also dropped a bombshell as to the roof. It isn't designed to be removable as he other one was. So, place interior detail parts where they can be seen from a window. Hmmm, may have to change that bit.
Needed a break and started on the false front. I was to add the upper back framing, but this wall has an inset entrance and any backside framing would interfere with adding the windows. I missed where I was to add the color card, so I got that done/ Then dug into building the entrance. And Houston, we have a problem. The detail drawing was off. The interior window ledges that were cut a while ago are too short. The door opening shows it to be 4'6" but measures 2'9". The front door frame shows it to be 3'6". Since the cast door will fit the frame, I'll go with 3'6". Just making the frame will be interesting since it involves building an inward opening transom window.
This is taking a bit longer that I had anticipated. But then , my new Bar Mills challenge kit hasn't arrived, so I'll keep on pluging away.
It turns out that I had to essentially redraw the font plan detail to account for the actual door frame width. To aid in maintaining the width, I used two parallel pieces of painters tape. Thee is just enough lip to hold the 4x4 posts in place. Well, with the help of a machinist block. I am basically building a transom door frame. Over the upper 4x4's are a 1x4 covering. Once that all dried I did a test fir of the cast metal door. Hmmm, it don't fit. The frame legs are short and the lower 1x4 is in the way. And to top it off, the assembly is too tall. But only by 4".
Then I looked at an elevation drawing and noticed that the transom was more rectangular than square. So do it again. But this time not only move the top piece down, but ensure that the lower piece allows for the door to sit flat.
Next up, make the actual transom window. I'll need to wait a bit before it gets added as I'll set it in the open (inward) position.
Slowly plodding along.
I did some more detail painting. For the Coca-Cola chest cooler, I found a nice weathered sign and sized it to the now painted wood piece. I do all my photo manupulation in Word using their Picture Tools option.
Then on to the front door. It requires a transom window. To make it, I found it was easier to cut the acetate and then add the frame on it. For full disclosure, I made three of these. Two using 1x4, and the third using the correct 1x2s.
After adding the 2x4's to the rear of the false front it was time to put on my big boy pants and tackle the front entrance and it's inset door.
But first, I need to work on the door between the two buildings. The templates had slightly different size openings and the Crossing door was framed, as directed, with a 1x4. But the Emporium side also needs interior framing. I found that a 1x10 works perfectly and will act as a guide. I will add framing around the door before both sides are glued together.
Now for the front door. One has to select where the ends of the main windows will be located and cut through the lower wall sections as needed. Save these pieces as they will be reused. Not shown, but a 45 degree groove needs to be made where the "foyer" windows will meet this wall. I used the show window floors to aid in getting the lower foyer walls set correctly. It was an easy matter to place them upside down on a flat surface to ensure that they are flat and level.
I didn't like all the narrow glue surfaces (all 1/32"), so I added some 1/8th scrap bracing and made a backside to the window display floor. These will be painted white tomorrow.
Bob,
Have not seen that box in hobby shop for decades. Never knew there was two versions and there is so much going on inside that box.
Will follow along.
Tommy
Still slogging away. I got the front done. One had to first cut out where the windows go, then add the color card to the back. Install the larger Emporium window and let dry. Then cut away the lower section and save. Slice in a 45 degree slot at the free ends of the large window. Install the window shelf piece on the inside, using the lower cut off piece for proper placement towards the door. Let dry. Add the foyer window with the top edge fitting into the 45 degree slot. Let the glue set up. Measure, cut and add the lower foyer wall. Make sure the door frame fits, sand as needed, glue and let dry. One winds up with the first photo.
What the instructions don't have is adding some 1/8" bracing in the corner where the shelf and outer wall meet. I also added another piece of bracing to add a back side to the window shelf. It's a bit too white.
The Crossing portion has a cardboard formed foundation that is covered in Holgate & Reynolds concrete block. It needs to be glued to the Crossing, but not a lot of surface to hold. That and I needed to ensure it being square. So, flip it over and add 1/8" bracing. I buy mine in bulk from Fast Tracks. Then add some square corner scrap. So not only is it truly square, I have a bunch of decent gluing surface to take abuse my ham hands.
Back to the Crossing floor. Here the exterior walkway, inside floor and rear loading dock have been joined. I mainly used 2x12s as directed, but then realized that I needed more bracing between the interior floor and the loading dock, so those got added. Then it was on to adding some 6x6 beams and posts. It took me a little while to figure out how long to make those and got them glued on. Next, I need to add some bracing that the kit does not call for.
Then intermittently, I worked on the rear dock roof. It is a simple cardboard form to which 2x4s are added to the underside. I decided to add three 2x4 cross pieces, then the 2x4 joists. Once the glue has dried, I give it a shot of leather brown spray primer. The top surface will be rusted tin.
The next challenge will be adding the Emporium building to the Crossing building and see how close I got to them being the same depth.
Looking good, Bob.
Cheers, Mark.
Very nice and intricate modeling Bob.
Bob,
Getting caught up again. You are really doing a great job on a "not so easy kit". The end result will be well worth the effort I'm sure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 14, 2021, 09:26:56 AM
Bob,
Getting caught up again. You are really doing a great job on a "not so easy kit". The end result will be well worth the effort I'm sure.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. It continues to whip my butt.
With the Emporium attached, it was time to ads some steps between the two as the Emporium is lower. There is a riser template on a card, actually three of them for two treads. Once cut out, They needed a bit of sanding to get them even. Then it was a matter of assembling them. I found a couple of jigs, as it turns out, these two gave me an almost exact width that was needed. It was just a matter of sandwiching everything together until the glue dried.
While that setting up, I moved on to a grain bin. It is made out of scrap material. I decided to make it out of scribed siding instead of the called for 2x6s. The "glass" top was made by gluing a frame onto a piece of acetate. It is supposed to hold corn, rice, and wheat. Ah no. I'll get some colored bits to represent veggies.
Getting close to add the Emporium boardwalk roof. I calls for two side ends made out of siding material. There is a big difference between the provided template and the diagram. I'll make it to the diagram.
Time to start working on more details. The hardest will be the gas pumps. There is sufficient clear tubing for the two vertical globes. It was a simple matter of marking the height, and cutting with a micro-saw. Well. it became simple once I found that a scrap piece of 1/8" bracing material helped hold the tube in the cutting fixture.
Once sanded smooth, I found that I could use Bondic to get an instant grab. The light did it's magic through the clear tubing.
Now, on to some of the remaining detail parts. Here is about a quarter of them.
I have already did some bit by bit. I have several small parts bins to hold these little bits.
I have found that I can use Aleen's Fast Grab on the end of a wood dowel to hold the small parts for painting. It just takes a small dot. Once done, slowly peal the part off and the residual glue from the dowel. The fast grab hasn't soaked into the wood, so it just peels off. I found some oil signs and reduced them to the appropriate size and glued them on to bulk oil dispensers. They look a lot better than just plain black. Normally, the dowels are in a 2x4 that has a bunch of holes drilled into it to hold them while the parts are drying after priming. They get moved to the machinist blocks while I work on them.
Everything looks great. Good idea about the dowels.
Dayum. Still mightily impressed with the details of this kit.
Excellent work so far
Painting small bits can be a royal pain. Making them are a close second. Upper left is the beginnings of a sales table. Below it is a tire rack (upside down) and a coat tree (made up of 6 parts). To the right are books. I found and resized some book rack photos which were then cut out and glued to styrene sticks. Once dry they'll go in the book case along with some bottles.
I found Army Painter paints and do love them. Great coverage and once one gets past some of the paint names, they expand color choices for details and detail parts.
Great work Bob!
Looking very nice Bob.
Mike
Great looking details Bob.
The Emporium roof is shingled. I really like the Campbell Shingles and transfer tape. Once the tape has been laid down, burnish it. Then after you peel off the protective tape, just move it 5 or 6 rows above to minimize getting into the exposed adhesive. Roughly measure the width, tear off a piece of shingle strip, and then run the outside between your thumb and fore finger to straighten it. I use the dull end of tweezers to get an initial set across the roof, trying to keep the row straight. It has a natural curve, so that must be managed. Then I go back over the row to burnish the blank shingle section into the adhesive. When one get up to the ridge, you will need to use the glue on the shingle to get one last row before the peak.
I managed to get about 2/3rds of the detail parts in the building. All of the tools on the built up work table are separate bits.
Then there is the book case and PO Boxes in the store.
And some exterior bits. I am still adding parts here and there. Some will have to wait until I get the building mounted.
Love the interior details and the half round porch, great job Bob.
Beautiful modeling and details.
Its looking so good, Bob.
Such great details.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks all.
Not a fan of the original signage. They look terrible at their original size. So I went ahead and made another simple one. I found a Busted knuckle garage sign for that part.
The kit has a small card for a window awning. Meh. So I made one out of soldered brass rod and tissue paper and made one to cover both windows. Didn't make sense to shade one window but not the one next to it. I also started to add the electric service weather head. There will be two. They also include a meter/shut off box casting, but nothing to connect them. I'll bend some brass rod to fit.
Hey Bob:
Looks just great so far.
Karl
Great job Bob.
I agree with Karl and Curt!
Nice work so far.. Good details.
Jerry
Karl, Curt, Craig, and Jerry thanks for the comps.
Got most of it done. Just need to add the stairs down from the rear loading dock. There is a 1/8" drop from the Crossing to the Emporium. Went to my foam board supply. Aha. Got it. Not so fast Bobbie. It is 5mm, Hmmmm. Rats. Found some 1/8" stuff on line and now it it another waiting game.
So, what does this look like with it's lid. Here ya go.
I did manage to get the conduit installed from the weather heads. The meter casting is really nice.
Well, nerts. I just noticed that I forgot a chimney for the Crossing. That'll go on quick. Good thing I keep all kit casting parts in small boxes.
Onward to the 2021 challenge build.
Looks really great, Bob.
Cheers, Mark.
Nice lookin' structure, Bob.
Jeff
Beautiful job Bob.
Nice job Bob ....looks great
Doug