This will be the start of the scratch built rock crusher building. I'm using the basic dimensions from this article for the build. The two part article was written up in Model Railroader in November and December 1957 and is based on a real stone crusher in Gate City, Va. on the Southern Ry.
The prototype.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher001C.jpg)
The prototypes rock bunker.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher001D.jpg)
The model rock crusher and bunker building.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher001C.jpg)
The model rock crusher building.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher001B.jpg)
As I said in my layout tour thread, I was going to introduce a material I haven't seen being used in model railroading. It's a common stone use in the manufacture of wood stoves and kitchen sinks of early American kitchens; it's called soap stone. It's a soft smooth feeling stone when worked for the above-mentioned items. I had owned a wood soap stone stove for many years. In the search for a wood stove, I researched soap stone and found out where it was quarried and the many different colors that it has.
The prototype building was built using cast concrete for the construction. I figured since this was a limestone quarry I'd make a building out of limestone blocks. This led to research on limestone color, plus I also had the quarry close by to determine the color of the local limestone.
The first thing was to find out where I could get soapstone. If you use a search engine, you'll find all sorts of places that sell large quantities. I was looking for something smaller than what these places were selling. Soapstone is used in many crafts to make things due to it is carve able nature, so it was easy to find in an art supply store such as "Dick Blicks Art Supply". So I ordered some stone to see if it would work for an HO scale structure.
The stone I ordered came rough sawn into blocks approximately 3" X 3" X 4".
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/100.JPG)
First thing I needed to do was square up the block and get rid of the rough sawn lines in the block. So I milled the sides parallel to each other in my Bridgeport milling machine. It creates quite a bit of dust.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/101.JPG)
Once I had two sides smooth and parallel they were cut into slabs about 1/4" thick.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/102.JPG)
Using a miter saw to cut the slabs.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/103.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/104.JPG)
Did I mention it leaves a lot of dust? The powder can be used for weathering possibly.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/105.JPG)
Next, I set up my Grizzly mini mill to mill the slabs parallel. This time I set up a vacuum system to contain the dust.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/106.JPG)
I had to resort to almost enclosing the vacuum with the air filter system I had built for woodwork to keep the dust from flying all around the basement.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/107.JPG)
You could almost see through these filters when they were clean.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/108.JPG)
Once the slabs were perfectly flat and parallel I had to cut them in the proper size sticks. I started out by setting up the CNC mill. I glued some aircraft plywood onto a MDF base to hold the slab of soapstone from being pushed away. I used a climbing cut which also helped hold the slab down and push it against the stop. The mill got pretty dusty cutting 16 slots or pieces.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/109.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/110.JPG)
Here's a video of cutting the sticks. Some will probably have a fit watching this but I've been around machinery for over 60 years. No one was hurt or cut anything off.
https://youtu.be/wM23JSGwqfo (https://youtu.be/wM23JSGwqfo)
Here's a penny for comparison. The first bars of soapstone are roughly .160" square.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/112.JPG)
Here's a comparison of soapstone color. The one I cut next to a piece of soapstone that is used to mark out metal for cutting. The one on the right can be bought at any of the home supply stores or a welding shop.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/113.JPG)
I scribed lines one piece to see how it would look with larger size stone scribed lines. I know what you're thinking. Why don't you just scribe the blocks on larger pieces of soapstone and be done with it. One reason. Can anybody figure it out?
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/114.JPG)
Note the variegation in the green circle? When laying blocks nobody is going pick through the big heavy blocks and match the variegation. The bigger the piece the more noticeable it would be.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/115.JPG)
I made a jig for cutting the sticks to length. It's a piece of aluminum with a .155" wide by .155" deep slot. A small cross milling at the closed end provides a stop for the sticks to butt against. A slot .022" thick was cut .230" from the blind end end to guide a razor saw.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/116.JPG)
The first cut blocks and the jig loaded to to cut more.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/117.JPG)
The first blocks laid up to see if this whole idea will work.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/118.JPG%5Bimg%5DI've%20got%20all%20of%20the%20sticks%20cut%20to%20length%20now%20and%20gave%20them%20a%20bath%20to%20get%20the%20dust%20from%20cutting%20off%20of%20them.%20Here's%20the%20pile%20after%20a%20nice%20cold%20bath.%5Bimg%5Dhttps://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/119.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/120.JPG%5Bimg%5DI%20started%20out%20with%20one%20of%20the%20white%20soapstone%20sticks%20and%20a%20foam%20core%20backing.%20The%20white%20styrene%20is%20.010"%20thick%20to%20simulate%20motar%20joints%20between%20the%20blocks.%5Bimg%5Dhttps://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/121.JPG)
Once I found out how floppy the foam wall was going to be I use a piece of 1/4" Luan. I also place a strip of styrene under the blocks for a mortar line.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/122.JPG%5Bimg%5D%5Bimg%5Dhttps://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/123.JPG)
This is how far I got using the foam. Not going to work.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/124.JPG)
I ran out of blocks at this point and decided it was a large enough test wall to determine if this is the way I wanted to go.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/125.JPG)
This is what an HO scale person would see at 100 HO scale feet from the wall.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/126.JPG)
Next experiment was to fill the mortar lines. I used plaster of Paris and a fantail brushed.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/127.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/128.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/129.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/130.JPG)
Once it looked like the lines were all filled in it was time to wet the plaster.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/131.JPG)
I used my Iwata spray gun to mist water over the plaster. I didn't use a spray bottle because spray was too heavy and would bead up on the plaster. The spray also was strong enough to wash out the lines of mortar.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/132.JPG)
I wiped the excess water off with a paper towel. This helped to clean the film of plaster sitting on top of the the blocks.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/133.JPG)
After letting the whole wall and plaster dry over night I noticed some voids in the mortar lines.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/134.JPG)
I repeated the procedure of adding some plaster, rubbing it in, misting lightly with water and waiting until the next day to see the results.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/135.JPG)
Much better.
And the scale model view of about 100 HO scale feet from the building.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/136.JPG)
This short section is the explanation of using soapstone blocks, how to manufacture them in HO scale. Next will be the actual build of the rock crusher building using the technique just explained.
Until next time.
Bernd
Bernd,
That sure is a lot of work but well worth the end product. Looks fantastic.
Tom ;D
Impressed , flabbergasted , those words come to my mind, thanks for sharing.
Very impressive, Bernd. A big investment that is already paying out.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2021, 03:12:33 PM
Bernd,
That sure is a lot of work but well worth the end product. Looks fantastic.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. Much appreciated.
Yes it is a lot of work if you are in a hurry to get a railroad running. There's nothing like have that individual block look.
Bernd
Quote from: Janbouli on February 20, 2021, 03:13:26 PM
Impressed , flabbergasted , those words come to my mind, thanks for sharing.
You're welcome.
Bernd
Quote from: Rusty Robot on February 20, 2021, 03:19:12 PM
Very impressive, Bernd. A big investment that is already paying out.
Thanks Rusty R.
The tooling was an investment over a long time period. One of my other hobbies was, notice I said "was", live steam engines. You needed metal working machines to do that kind of hobby. I was going to build a four truck 1 1/2" scale Shay. Still have the castings. They also come in handy for smaller scale work such as HO scale modeling. I think that's one thing that's slowly leaving the hobby is using such tooling to make parts. If you look in the older model magazines you'd find ads for Unimat lathes.
Bernd
Neat looking structure Bernd.....great job with the sandstone. I'll be watching this one closely. :)
Hey Bernd:
Ston wall looks just great. Keep the pic coming.
Karl
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 21, 2021, 10:19:39 AM
Neat looking structure Bernd.....great job with the sandstone. I'll be watching this one closely. :)
Thanks Gregory.
That's soapstone, not sandstone. Great material to work with, except for making a lot of dust.
Bernd
Quote from: postalkarl on February 21, 2021, 02:01:42 PM
Hey Bernd:
Ston wall looks just great. Keep the pic coming.
Karl
Thanks Karl. More pics on the way. Hopefully Sunday evening.
Bernd
Hey Bernd:
You are quite welcome. Looking forward to more pics./
Karl
Bernd,
Interesting approach to modeling the masonry portion of the rock crusher. I'm following your progress closely as I an thinking about adding a gravel mining operation to my (still only benchwork) layout.
As an aside, I wonder if you are aware of the Facebook group for "New York Railroads, Turnpikes, and Canals"? One of the recently posted photos is of Rochester Junction. Here's a link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/460552970786042/
This update is about constructing the bottom half of the crusher building. At first I didn't have an idea of what to use for a shell to glue the blocks to. My first attempt was to use 1/4" thick Luan flooring plywood. I glued everything together. The next morning all the walls had a slight bow in them. That's when I decided to get some Gator Board. So I ordered a package of 24" X 36" board. I used my 10" table saw to cut out the rectangular walls and then used an Exacto knife to cut out the small portions. I glued up the walls using 1/4" square strips for inside corner support.
The Gator board walls.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-1.JPG)
The multitude of scale blocks.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-2.JPG)
The wall shell where it will be permanently placed, finally.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-3.JPG)
I discovered from doing the experimental wall that I needed a better way to apply glue to the block with my right hand while holding onto the block with a pair of tweezers with my left hand and then remove the cap on the bottle of glue. Also I had to wait every time for the glue to get to the nozzle. A modeler on the other forum made a jig to hold his bottle of glue. Great idea, but you still needed to remove the nozzle with your third hand. So I made a sort of landing pad square to the nozzle to keep the glue from running out. I'm sure the picture will explain it better than I can in words.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/CB1-V1.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/CB2-V1.JPG)
By the way if you haven't figured it out yet, I'm using Aleene's Original Tacky Glue.
Next I laid out the doors and windows according to the drawing. I believe these are Tichy windows and doors.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-4.JPG)
Ready for the first row. I used .010" thick styrene strips between the blocks to simulate the mortar thickness. So the mortar line will be close to 1 scale inch thick.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-5.JPG)
The first row is done.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-6.JPG)
Third row.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-7.JPG)
And around the corner. One thing I should have done is build up the corner blocks first and then run the courses. It would have given a better looking corner. You'll see what I mean when the building is done.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-8.JPG)
I also laid a strip of .010" thick styrene between the rows of blocks to give me the horizontal mortar line.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-9.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-10.JPG)
Almost done. I lost track of how many weeks, yes weeks, it took to do just two sides. Reason? I got tired of laying blocks. It was sort of boring at times.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-11.JPG)
The end wall. Here you can see how uneven the corner blocks of the building are. I only did this wall and the front since you are not going to see the side at the tracks or what I call the back wall. It was hard to say the bottom was done at this point knowing the back and other end had no blocks glued to it.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-12.JPG)
The front with the window lintels installed.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-13.JPG)
And one the side wall. Not real happy with the outcome of this wall but I wasn't going to redo it at this point.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-14.JPG)
Next I needed to cover the window opening so I could spread plaster to fill in the mortar lines with out filling in the window and door openings. Some styrene pieces were glued up the size of the windows and doors and stuck in place.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-15.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-16.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-17.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-18.JPG)
Once closed off it was time to add the plaster.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-19.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-20.JPG)
It takes several coats to fill in all the crevices.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-21.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-22.JPG)
Then a light misting with the air brush.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-23.JPG)
A quick wipe with some paper towels to clean the dust that got wetted so it doesn't stick to the surface of the blocks.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-24.JPG)
On the side wall I decided to just use my fingers to spread the plaster. It actually worked better than the fan brush. These pictures turned out blurry because I held the building in my hands unsupported.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-25.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-26.JPG)
And again a light misting of water to wet the plaster and a wipe with the paper towel.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-27.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-28.JPG)
And there we have the bottom finished with 1,129 blocks, but whose counting?
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/HOn30quarryline/Crusher%20Building/crusher-29.JPG)
Next will be the upper half of the building. I had a tough time figuring out what I wanted to use for the outside material. More in the next post.
Until then.
Bernd
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 22, 2021, 09:25:28 AM
Bernd,
Interesting approach to modeling the masonry portion of the rock crusher. I'm following your progress closely as I an thinking about adding a gravel mining operation to my (still only benchwork) layout.
As an aside, I wonder if you are aware of the Facebook group for "New York Railroads, Turnpikes, and Canals"? One of the recently posted photos is of Rochester Junction. Here's a link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/460552970786042/
Hey Jerry,
Glad to have you along for the show. You'll find I approach some subjects in interesting and complicated ways sometimes before I hit on an easy way of doing it. Just my nature I guess. It can be a fun show at times.
Sounds like you'll also need a crusher structure and rock bin. I have lots of pictures and video links to stone quarries if you are interested in how they function. Now you said gravel. We also have a gravel pit in the near area. They can supply what is known as bank run gravel of different sizes. The sizes can vary from 1" diameter stones up to 6" inch diameter stones. It depends on what screen sizes they run the gravel through. If you plan on limestone gravel then you would need to model how lime stone is quarried and crushed into stone.
I'm on Facebook and belong to a couple of modeling groups but don't post much. I mainly use them just for viewing pictures and occasionally find some pictures I could use. I'm not a fan of Facebook so much because it's hard to follow what somebody is posting. If they don't post frequently it's hard to try and find their post. I think many use Facebook due to the ease of posting pictures. They don't have to do any picture editing. Just up load and they're done.
I did take a quick surf through the site and saw some familiar areas. Thanks for the link.
Bernd
Bernd,
FWIW, I have seen your modeling on the "other" forum, thus am pretty familiar with and appreciate your often unique approach to modeling.
Like you I only belong to Facebook to access one group that has a focus on the area I model. My Facebook page currently has nary a photo or post. The inability to search topics easily seems to be a non-starter in my opinion, thus I much prefer this forum.
In the edge of the Catskills area I model the predominant stone is bluestone. While it is possible to purchase crushed bluestone today, in the era I model (ca 1920) it appears that bluestone was quarried only for sidewalks and building stone. There were several sand and/or gravel banks in the area. Two of the gravel banks show up in photos along the railroad right of way. It appears from some timber remains by one of the banks that there was most likely some kind of crusher in use at one time. Since my layout plan is for a freelance version of the Delaware & Northern, a small crusher seems like a reasonable choice for the layout.
Bernd
What a fantastic project. This structure is looking great - I real cut stone wall in HO scale. Very nice work.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 22, 2021, 05:37:59 PM
Bernd,
FWIW, I have seen your modeling on the "other" forum, thus am pretty familiar with and appreciate your often unique approach to modeling.
So you already know about my craziness in doing things. ;D
Quote
Like you I only belong to Facebook to access one group that has a focus on the area I model. My Facebook page currently has nary a photo or post. The inability to search topics easily seems to be a non-starter in my opinion, thus I much prefer this forum.
It's not a bad place to catch some interesting tidbits at times. Also I belong to the Friends of the EBT. I signed up for a membership of the East Broad Top Railroad. My favorite narrow gauge.
Quote
In the edge of the Catskills area I model the predominant stone is bluestone. While it is possible to purchase crushed bluestone today, in the era I model (ca 1920) it appears that bluestone was quarried only for sidewalks and building stone. There were several sand and/or gravel banks in the area. Two of the gravel banks show up in photos along the railroad right of way. It appears from some timber remains by one of the banks that there was most likely some kind of crusher in use at one time. Since my layout plan is for a freelance version of the Delaware & Northern, a small crusher seems like a reasonable choice for the layout.
Sounds like you might be looking for a building. I know where to get some drawings. ;)
Bernd
Quote from: S&S RR on February 23, 2021, 09:03:06 AM
Bernd
What a fantastic project. This structure is looking great - I real cut stone wall in HO scale. Very nice work.
Thank you John. I know it was a lot of work to put into a building, but I like to build unique items that can't be found on somebody else's layout. In one way right now I wish I would have waited a bit longer on using soapstone. In my attempt to find a product I could used to simulate rough faced limestone, for a roundhouse project I'm slowly putting together, I discovered dental stone and using Hydrocal for the first time in casting. Hopefully some time in the future I can post a thread on this project.
Bernd
Quote from: Bernd on February 20, 2021, 05:48:48 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2021, 03:12:33 PM
Bernd,
That sure is a lot of work but well worth the end product. Looks fantastic.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. Much appreciated.
Yes it is a lot of work if you are in a hurry to get a railroad running. There's nothing like have that individual block look.
Bernd
Gernd,
In many areas of life, I'm not very patient. However, in modeling, I have been accused of having the patience of a Saint. Well, I'm no saint but I have the patience of Job when modeling. LOL
Tom ;D
Bernd,
That will be a neat structure...
Tommy
Hey Bernd:
the stone walls look just beautiful. Can't wait to see what you do with this.
Karl
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on February 24, 2021, 11:38:02 AM
Bernd,
That will be a neat structure...
Tommy
Thanks Tommy. Haven't done much to finish the top part yet. Other things on my plate right now.
Bernd
Quote from: postalkarl on February 24, 2021, 04:47:04 PM
Hey Bernd:
the stone walls look just beautiful. Can't wait to see what you do with this.
Karl
Thanks Karl. Means a lot coming from you. I think you'll find I'm a bit odd about doing things.
Been working on the top half like I told Tommy, but other things have been going on so haven't been at the wrokbench to much.
Bernd
Here's why I haven't updated my rock crusher building for several weeks. It's slow progress. Hopefully the following explanation will give a clue to an almost stopped project.
Well after spending the last several weeks getting equipment together and learning 3D modeling to produce an item for a model building or rail equipment, I would consider a 3D printed part a part of a scratch build since you are using tools to build a part. But four or so years ago I would have told you what you can do with your 3D printer. Talk about a 180 degree turn.
Ok enough of that. Let me start out by the tools I'm using. I purchased an new HP ProDesk 600 G5 SFF computer. Runs at 3.000GHz with a virtual disk and 48.0 GB of memory. A Kensington track ball and an HP P24q G4 monitor. Running Windows 10 Pro. The printer was purchased second hand from a forum member. It's an Anycubic Photon printer with a printing volume 4.52" x 2.56" x 6.1". Good enough for what I want to do right now. A bigger printer could be in the works in the future. For software I'm running AutoCads latest version of Fusion 360 for Hobbyist. I'm using Chitubox for my slicer. I have yet to try out a print. I still need to purchase some resin for printing. That'll be the second rabbit hole to go down, learn how to set the printer up for perfect prints.
So here's what the whole package looks like.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2F3D%2520Printing%2Fprinter0002.JPG&hash=561506f469f386a142ae4bf3a5d0b5f85ef6922b)
During this period of research I also spent many hours on line watching video's using Fusion 360. Many of the tutorials were made 3 to 4 years ago. This made it hard to learn 360 due to the version updates to 2021. I believe the last was last March 2020. I did find two guys who knew how to present a proper tutorial so you can follow. The guy that, in my opinion was one of the better teachers was Paul McWorter's series called "Learn Fusion 360 or Die Trying". It's 13 lessons long. He teaches about using 2d drafting methods in the use of what in 360 is called "sketch". Very informative lessons. After practicing a couple of his presentations I was able to model some of my own ideas. One problem though is the fact that he uses software that applied in 2016. The menus have changed since then, but when you find the operation that is to be preformed it will help remembering where it was located. Here is he first lesson of thirteen from Paul: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5tp4QXciK4&ab_channel=PaulMcWhorter
The second person I found very good at producing lessons on Fusion 360 is Kevin Kennedy. His first lesson was two years ago and that helps with today's version of the software. Kevin has quiet a large repository of videos to choose from. Here's a link to his channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/TheKHaug And a link to his first lesson: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yPKMSb6ja8&ab_channel=ProductDesignOnline
There is a third person I followed for a while but just couldn't contend with his heavy accent. I had to replay certain sections many times to figure out what he was saying. You can check out his videos yourself and decide. LINK to his Fusion 360 Tutorial for Absolute Beginners— Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g&ab_channel=LarsChristensen
I've read where many people trying to learn Fusion or any other 3D modeling or even 2D drafting programs get frustrated trying to learn that specific program by watching a video is the fact how the presenter presents the the lesson. You don't need fancy background music. It's tough to listen to you trying to explain a procedure over music. Second I don't think any go back and listen to what they have produced. There voice sounds terrible with what ever mike they are using. Some are nothing but a mumble, while others sound like they are in a tin building. But anyway I made my way through and have learned quite a bit about Fusion 360, plus it also puts out G codes for 3D milling machines. Now that'll be another rabbit hole to go down someday.
So what have I accomplished with 3D desing? Well As you know I've been talking about animating my rock crusher project building and I had made an auger using my lathe. Well I learned how it can be done on Fusion. Here are some progressive pictures starting with a finished 3D drawing on Fusion to where it's ready for printing.
At this point I still need to purchase some resin and figure out how to get perfect parts from the printer. My first project is an auger that will replace the one I built for the rock crusher.
After many hours following tutorials and practice I came up with this 3D drawing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2F3D%2520projects%2FAuger%2Fauger-1.PNG&hash=cf15d9b1b5ac18d26fef55a98c2f7fc5cc0221c6)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2F3D%2520projects%2FAuger%2Fauger-2.PNG&hash=297b1af56d59f5ebb3d0b8d022cb85d317b1c772)
Here the file has been turned into an STL and opened in the Chitubox software for slicing
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2F3D%2520projects%2FAuger%2Fauger-3.PNG&hash=4828bc5d7ca56ab18bface3febe35c706bd49c54)
And the file is ready to be loaded into the printer and hopefully in a little over 7 hours it will be done with no errors. The auger is approximately 1" in diameter and 4.5" long.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2F3D%2520projects%2FAuger%2Fauger-4.PNG&hash=8591b3a1b47897d3c3552c71b370260ba8a1d620)
So that's it for my 3D printing adventure so far. Hopefully in the next few months, yes months, warmer weather is coming with many outside projects to do, I'll have a printed part in may hand.
Until then.
Bernd
Most curious to see how this prints, Bernd. Are they auto supports or manual?
What's the thickness of the screw layers?
I'm anticipating some potential warpage, which sometimes happens on edge-to-edge prints.
This all said, there is an art to the science so you might be printing a success right out of the gate!
As for your resin, stick with AnyCubic own brand. Their translucent green one will shave off an hour or more per print, too.
Looking just great so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Quote from: Keep it Rusty on March 20, 2021, 11:18:01 PM
Most curious to see how this prints, Bernd. Are they auto supports or manual?
What's the thickness of the screw layers?
I'm anticipating some potential warpage, which sometimes happens on edge-to-edge prints.
This all said, there is an art to the science so you might be printing a success right out of the gate!
As for your resin, stick with AnyCubic own brand. Their translucent green one will shave off an hour or more per print, too.
I still don't know what I'm doing in the slicer program yet. That's the next step in getting something printed. I kind of burned out on the Fusion 360 learning curve and need a little time to recover.
The supports are auto generated. I tried one standing straight up. With all the supports it put in I couldn't even see the auger. The design calls for a .375" diameter shaft and the thickness of the auger is .063". I think the only way to find out is to let it print and see what the end results are. I figure that this is part of the learning curve. I don't expect a perfect part the first time since I'm new to this whole new system. It'll take a while to figure out. I don't give up easy. Okay, I'll be using the Anycubic resin. That's the next step. Ordering some resin and setting up the printer along with learning the slicer program.
But in the mean time I need to get back to finishing the rock crusher building.
I'll be bugging you for advice when the time comes to print. Thanks for all the help so far. Much appreciated.
Bernd
Looks likes the hobby is heading into a whole new dimension.....this just keeps getting more interesting by the post.....well done Bernd. 8)
Quote from: postalkarl on March 21, 2021, 09:44:56 AM
Looking just great so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Thanks Karl. Please don't hold your breath while waiting you might turn blue and faint. ;) There will be more coming, but first I need to recover from Fusion burn out. It's back to a scale and Axacto knife for a while.
Bernd
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 21, 2021, 10:35:34 AM
Looks likes the hobby is heading into a whole new dimension.....this just keeps getting more interesting by the post.....well done Bernd. 8)
Hey Gregory. Like I said, about four years ago I had a different opinion on 3D printing. To me it's a tool that will help with things that are hard to fabricate by hand. I've searched for ways of making an auger for years. I used my lathe to make the one I use now, but am not satisfied with how it came out. There is no way of increasing the pitch of the auger using the lathe. The next method was using an auger drill and making a resin casting. So I bought a $43 auger drill with intentions of making a casting. Well that didn't get to far. Now I have a way of making something that I can fine tune. It also allows me to change the size if needed. I look at this new tech as a better way to make the small parts that will enhance our models instead of wishing and hopping that some one will produce one for the market. I wasn't sure if I should post this here since much of the forum is into structure kit building and scratch building structures. I think to many people getting into modeling want be able to print out a whole building or piece of rolling stock in one sitting. I look at it more like being able to turn out small detail parts that will enhance the structure kit or scratch build item.
And thanks for the "well done" comment. Much appreciated. More to come. Still learning.
Bernd
I had a fourth video I wanted to mention but couldn't find the link, plus U-Tube didn't want to play nice. I finally got on and found the link. It's close to 10 minuets long. I learned more on making an auger from this guy than any of the others. He also did it a different way from Kevin Kennedy. Kevin used a round coil where as this guy used a square coil. So it goes to show there is more than one way to do a 3D drawing. Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWSZUNfsyzs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWSZUNfsyzs)
Hey Craig, I ordered a bottle of Translucent Green. So perhaps by next weekend I might have the first print off the Photon.
Bernd
Hello Bernd, just wanted to say I am blown away by the work involved in your stone walls. Outstanding modeling. Jeff
Great news, Bernd!
Don't forget to configure Chitubox's print settings for the Translucent Green (and can be found on that spreadsheet I sent you)
Quote from: nycjeff on March 21, 2021, 04:01:07 PM
Hello Bernd, just wanted to say I am blown away by the work involved in your stone walls. Outstanding modeling. Jeff
Thank you Jeff. Now all I need to do is get back to work on it.
Bernd
Quote from: Keep it Rusty on March 21, 2021, 04:02:02 PM
Great news, Bernd!
Don't forget to configure Chitubox's print settings for the Translucent Green (and can be found on that spreadsheet I sent you)
I was getting burned out watching all those video's, but it was worth it.
I ordered a bottle from your source, translucent green. The first step will be to get everything set on the printer and print out the cube that comes with the software for the printer. I've been going through all the menus on Chitubox. Am playing around with the slicer to see how that works. Once I think I have it all figured out I'll give the auger a try.
Thanks for all the help so far.
Bernd
he Bernd:
You are quite welcome. If you need A rest you need A rest.
Karl
Hi Bernd.....this is exactly the right place to post this. This forum has people from all different backgrounds and that really contributes to helping all of us with areas of the hobby that are out of our comfort zone.
Keep doing exactly what you are doing.....sharing new and exciting aspects of the hobby that some of us are not as familiar with as you have demonstrated. Thanks for the thread and keep it coming. 8)
Thanks guys. Gives me great inspiration form you kind words. Makes it all worth while.
I've got quite a number of projects lined up.
Bernd
Hello Bernd,
This project is very enlightening and you seem to grasp all aspects of the unknown (3D printing) with ease.
Congratulations for "stepping out" of the normal way of modeling, but I am "old school" when I model. My
use of an exacto knife and straight edge, whether it is wood or plaster, is as far out as I will go....and cheap too !
I honestly believe you will find your niche and when you do, you will overwhelmed with orders for parts ... ::) ::) ::)
Keep at it, your rock crusher will be the focal point of your layout..
Rich
Hey Rich,
Thanks for the kind words.
I'd love to see you make an auger with a straight edge and exacto knife. If you can show me how it's done I'll give away my 3D printer. ;D
I know who'll be my first customer. ;)
Bernd
Time to bring this project up to date.
I've taken note of a material used both on this forum and the other forum of you guys using a product called "chipboard". I thought at first it was wood. Once I got straighten out on what it was I ordered some from Blick Art Supplies.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-30.JPG)
Next I made two inserts for the ceiling/roof of the first floor. I was going to use floor laminate but decided to use gator board. The first part is the ceiling that fit's inside. The second part sits on top and just cuts off at the blocks.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-31.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-32.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-33.JPG)
The end and side walls.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-34.JPG)
Next is an experiment in laminating wood to the chipboard. I've notice many of you guys using chipboard to rough in your building sizes and then covering the outside with individual boards or complete sheets of milled lumber. I have also noticed that at times there are complaints of warping do to the water based glue even when bracing is used on the inside of the building. In a project of one of the modelers I notice the use of an adhesive backed paper to form a laminated part. I asked what he used. The product is called 3M 465 Adhesive Transfer Tape and comes in many different sizes. I got a roll of the widest tape they had - 12 in. x 15 ft. High Tack Splicing Tape Roll with Easy Liner Release. Here's the link to Amazons page:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-465-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape/dp/B00JR0CHIC/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1?pd_rd_w=kKLQ0&pf_rd_p=0381b3ca-ac9b-49b9-ba63-35fd0815ad67&pf_rd_r=PD366MMDKJE6AARMC7FE&pd_rd_r=fb1d1d7c-7761-45d1-b4ea-138107191750&pd_rd_wg=lhBB5&pd_rd_i=B00JR0CHIC&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/3M-465-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape/dp/B00JR0CHIC/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1?pd_rd_w=kKLQ0&pf_rd_p=0381b3ca-ac9b-49b9-ba63-35fd0815ad67&pf_rd_r=PD366MMDKJE6AARMC7FE&pd_rd_r=fb1d1d7c-7761-45d1-b4ea-138107191750&pd_rd_wg=lhBB5&pd_rd_i=B00JR0CHIC&psc=1)
So here's the line up. One wall side with 3 pieces of board and batten siding, one chipboard inner wall and the adhesive paper.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-35.JPG)
I peeled the paper off one side and applied it to the chipboard using a piece of pipe to get it to adhere to the chipboard.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-36.JPG)
Then I used a knife to cut around the chipboard.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-37.JPG)
I noticed a large portion with no adhesive on it. You still get 12" wide adhesive. I guess they left a little bit so you can grab it to pull off the paper backing.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-38.JPG)
Then once you've got one side stuck to the chipboard you try to get hold of a piece of the backing to pull it off which will then leave you with the adhesive stuck to the chipboard.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-39.JPG)
Next comes the fun part. Trying to get the wood perfectly lined up with the chipboard. I used a 1-2-3 block to help line it up.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-40.JPG)
Adding the second section.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-41.JPG)
And the very last section.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-42.JPG)
And finished. I used that same pipe to roll the on the back of the chipboard to get a good seal between the wood and chipboard. After over several weeks it showed no warping what so ever. I think I've found a better way to laminate large sections of milled wood to a backing and not get any warping.
I still needed to cut out some opening where it looks like they had some wooded openings enclosed with a door or some kind of shutter. I drew the wall up in a 2D CAD program printer it out and taped it to the wall and then cut out the openings.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-62.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-63.JPG)
I still have the one end wall to do.
I had a distraction arrive today. I finally got my bottle of resin so I'm off to play with the 3D printer for the next couple of days to see if I can make it print.
I'll post those results in this thread later.
Until then.
Bernd
Brilliant idea with the chipboard and whatever you use to laminate, either wood or styrene.
Hello Bernd, I'm following your build with great interest. I like your idea of using the chipboard for bracing instead of strip-wood. One question though, does the added thickness make it harder to cut out the door and window openings ? Jeff
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on March 28, 2021, 10:22:09 AM
Brilliant idea with the chipboard and whatever you use to laminate, either wood or styrene.
Thank you Chris. I think it's the same type used on those laser cut windows. The stuff seems to stick pretty good. So far there has been no warping.
Bernd
Quote from: nycjeff on March 29, 2021, 05:22:26 PM
Hello Bernd, I'm following your build with great interest. I like your idea of using the chipboard for bracing instead of strip-wood. One question though, does the added thickness make it harder to cut out the door and window openings ? Jeff
Hey Jeff,
I wasn't thinking ahead with the door and window cutouts. After I laminated the two materials together I figured I could still cut out the openings. Now I'm not cutting all the way through. Just through the wood. In the first picture of this thread is a picture of the prototype building. You'll see that they had some kind of opening. No explanation was given in the write up. I plan on just adding some wooden boards to simulate what could be a hinged opening. I do have bracing on the back, 1/4" square basswood. I'll have pics up when I assemble the walls.
I've got to get my butt in gear and do those doors. Right now I'm sort of stuck on what color to paint the whole upper section. I haven't had much experience in weathering and don't quite know what color to make the building. I'm thinking some sort of barn red or boxcar red color weathered.
Bernd
The build continues in the "Layout Tour" section here:
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=5605.90 (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=5605.90)
B