Ok, I'm going to get into the "additive manufacturing" mode with the Anycubic Photon printer.
I needed a faster computer to run Fusion 360 and one that has Windows 10 on it. I did not want to update my Windows 7 Professional software because I have software running for my CNC Sherline mill. So I purchased the computer equipment from Tiger Direct. Took a bit of time to get here due to the weather the past couple of weeks. So new screen, track ball and keyboard plus the computer itself.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2F3D%2520Printing%2Fprinter0002.JPG&hash=561506f469f386a142ae4bf3a5d0b5f85ef6922b)
The printer is a used printer that is in excellent condition purchased from a fellow model railroader who was upgrading to a larger printer. Thank you Craig (aka Rusty Robot)
Looking forward to making small HO scale parts that can be then used for table top plastic injection molding using epoxy resin molds. When I'll get to do all this is up in the air. I won't be printing anytime soon since I hear the resin stinks up the place and I don't want to upset the wife with the smell. I have a ventilation idea planned for winter use in the basement. First though I need to down load Fusion 360 and learn that program. So don't look for any updates soon on this new adventure. If I do any printing I'll be sure to post the what and how.
Bernd
Can't wait to see your progress, Bernd. She looks great sat there.
One thing I should've mentioned, the smell of resin really isn't noticeable at all. I think it's very overplayed in reviews etc... Truth be told, I would only ever smell the resin when I opened the door once it was finished and even then I'd have to stick my head up near to even get a whiff.
Yeah have on too...biggest hump I had was supports. Ended up using a different slicer. Anycubic slicer is a little awkward. watched a lot of utube movies on supports too... good luck!
Jim, I recommend the slicer "Chitubox". Free, works with most printers, and they've just released an update that makes support handling even better. Makes the Anycubic slicer look like junk.
Quote from: Rusty Robot on February 25, 2021, 02:02:49 PM
Jim, I recommend the slicer "Chitubox". Free, works with most printers, and they've just released an update that makes support handling even better. Makes the Anycubic slicer look like junk.
Hey Craig,
Getting another computer March 11 from best Buys. Convinced the wife if I get it there I can take the other one in a couple of months to get fixed and then she can have an updated computer.
Good to hear the smell isn't that bad. I was thinking of installing some ducting out the basement window. May not have to do that.
I've been playing around with Chitubox. I download a spoked HO scale wheel from Thingverse. Imported it and see what I could do. Looks like I need to watch a few more videos on the how to's.
I'll be using Fusion 360. It was recommended to me on the other forum. I've watched many videos on Fusion 360, don't remember the guy's name when I do I'll post it, and it doesn't look to bad to learn. I guess using 2D cad at home for a while to make parts on the CNC Sherline helped out.
Bernd
I am getting one of these soon , is there any software I can already get acquainted with before I get the printer?
Fusion is a great app to learn. Personally, I use the online tool "Tinkercad". It's simplicity suits me down to the ground.
Jan, it depends if you want to design & print or just print? The above mentioned apps are great place to start of wanting to design. Regardless, getting to know a "slicer" like Chitubux is a must. As Jim mentioned above, supports is the one hurdle for most folks entering 3D printing so getting to know your slicer early is a good idea.
Quote from: Rusty Robot on February 25, 2021, 07:17:39 PM
Fusion is a great app to learn. Personally, I use the online tool "Tinkercad". It's simplicity suits me down to the ground.
Jan, it depends if you want to design & print or just print? The above mentioned apps are great place to start of wanting to design. Regardless, getting to know a "slicer" like Chitubux is a must. As Jim mentioned above, supports is the one hurdle for most folks entering 3D printing so getting to know your slicer early is a good idea.
Thanks will be looking into all three . I am stagnating on which of the Anycubic to buy , or maybe even an other brand , price differences are small, so it's a bit "forest for the trees" for me.
Anycubic were my first choice when I got into 3D printing.
I've now moved onto Elegoo, as I find their larger printers much better value (I now have the elusive Elegoo Saturn, which is some $300 cheaper than the comparative printer from Anycubic).
I'd recommend any of the following:
Anycubic Photon
Elegoo Mars
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K (which has the best resolution, but at higher cost)
Jan,
I started watching Fusion 360 how videos by Paul McWhorter. He has 13 lessons called "Learn Fusion 360 or Die Trying". Link below to his 13 lessons.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5tp4QXciK4&list=PLGs0VKk2DiYx15SfBxO_VE6ELhpy0VnAw&ab_channel=PaulMcWhorter (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5tp4QXciK4&list=PLGs0VKk2DiYx15SfBxO_VE6ELhpy0VnAw&ab_channel=PaulMcWhorter)
As far as slicers go I downloaded Chitubox. I found this guy on You Tube that explained the placing of supports. The title is "Part 1: Intro to Chitubox and supporting minis like a pro, the first in a line of videos to come!" Link below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTZpvhfaNWY&ab_channel=3DPrintingPro (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTZpvhfaNWY&ab_channel=3DPrintingPro)
I think the guys that do these war gaming figures probably know the best on where to put supports with all those appendages needing support. I also down loaded a file from Thingerverse called "Train / loco / wagon wheel in 1:87 - HO". The picture caught my eye because it was a spoked wheel design. Something I've been looking for. I've used that in Chitubox to learn how to use the software.
LINK: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3824693 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3824693)
So, that's the software on my learn how to use list.
Any of you guys have more info on resin printing, not only on the Anycubic but others also, add your information to this thread. No worry about hijacking as long as it pretains to resin printing. Thanks.
Bernd
One area overlooked is the clean up after each print.
I use Anycubic's Wash & Cure machine for ease, but the bare essentials is a large container of rubbing alcohol or Denatured Alcohol (readily available at good prices in current climate). Also a UV lamp source to cure each print (most folks use UV lamps used in nail salons). Also, the clean up of the printer's vat (which I do only if a print failed and has left parts behind that could disrupt the next print).
Here's are some must-have consumables:
NITRILE (not latex) gloves.
Blue shop towels.
Paper filters with wire mesh (for decanting resin back to container).
Scrapers (both plastic and metal).
I would definitely agree with the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K if you can afford the extra cost. Especially if you want to do tiny N scale bits Jan. Think of it like a printer. the more dots per inch, the better the resolution. that means 35micron resolution vs 50 to 55micron with the equivalent 2K screens. This translates to about a 40% to 50% increase which is quite noticeable on small features. Not as much of an issue in HO, but big difference in N Scale.
The other essential items that I have found are the very thin metal artists pallet knife/spatula. These are handy for getting under the supports to separate them from the build platform. They are thinner than the typical scraper that comes with the average 3d printer. very useful for really small delicate parts.
Paper towels
Also, Tamiya Sharp pointed low angle sprue cutters. 74123. Can't speak highly enough about these as the low jaw angle reduces the amount of stress on the sprue as it cuts so it does not shatter the brittle 3D resin parts. The higher angle cutters like Zuron etc actually squeeze the sprue and pushes it apart which makes for a messier cut and can damage the part. They are also excellent for nipping rafter tails and strip stock!
Amazon.com: Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutter NO.123 (74123): Toys & Games (https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter-NO-123/dp/B010PG73J4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=tamiya+sprue+cutter&qid=1614366967&sr=8-2)
I would say that 99% Isopropyl Alcohol is required to properly clean uncured resin from your parts. The 70% does not cut it and you will quickly wind up with sticky parts.
Oh, and paper towels.
I use Pickle containers like these for my secondary rinse after doing an ultrasound cleaning, but you can just use the pickle jar for agitated cleaning by moving the basket up and down with the parts in it submerged clean IPA.
Starfrit 094498 Pickle Jar, 1.2L Container with Strainer, Transparent: Amazon.ca: Home & Kitchen (https://www.amazon.ca/Starfrit-094498-003-0000-Container-Strainer-Transparent/dp/B07VC9YCVK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2YP9HZHNU4ICA&dchild=1&keywords=pickle+jar+with+strainer&qid=1614367511&sprefix=pickle%2Caps%2C277&sr=8-1)
A squeeze bulb to dry your parts and get resin/ipa out from in between tight areas. Hany to make sure your tiny parts are super clean.
VSGO Handy Mini Air Blower Duster for DSLR Camera, Black (DDA-9-Black): Amazon.ca: Camera & Photo (https://www.amazon.ca/VSGO-Blower-Duster-Camera-DDA-9-Black/dp/B077ZG2QRM/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=squeeze+bulb+camera&qid=1614367911&sr=8-13)
Lastly I can recommend a nail curing station like this is a cheap and easy solution for post curing the resin parts.
NailStar Professional 36 Watt UV Nail Dryer Nail Lamp for Gel with 120 and 180 Second Timers + 4 x 9W Bulbs Included: Amazon.ca: Beauty (https://www.amazon.ca/NailStar-Professional-Second-Timers-Included/dp/B01DUQDX68/ref=sr_1_28?dchild=1&keywords=nail+curing+lamp&qid=1614367644&sr=8-28)
Plan on an area that is going to get messy when processing parts. No matter how careful you are, you are going to get some uncured resin on something.
Did we mention paper towels? Lots of them.
And a dedicated covered garbage can close by to dispose of gloves and soiled paper towels, etc. the ones that you step on a pedal with your foot work well and contain some of the resin odor.
Sorry Bernd, did not mean to hijack your thread, but hope this can be useful information as it can be frustrating starting out in 3D printing until one gets the hang of things.
Oh , wow , thank you all for the reply's , great help , hope you don't mind taking over your thread like this Bernd.
Looking into all 3 those printers , going to buy the best I can afford .
Quote from: Janbouli on February 26, 2021, 07:25:11 PM
Oh , wow , thank you all for the reply's , great help , hope you don't mind taking over your thread like this Bernd.
Looking into all 3 those printers , going to buy the best I can afford .
Jan,
Don't mind having info posted on the thread. No way is that hi-jacking the thread. This way we can keep info in one place and not have to go searching all over the net for answers. So if you have some pertinent information to add to the subject, please do.
Glad this is helping you out in deciding what to purchase.
Once you've decided and purchased please add it to this thread.
Bernd
Some of the reviews I read on the Phrozen noted problems with the Z-axle , seriously thinking about this one because of the 4K , will be printing tiny things , so need the best detail possible for the budget . The Phrozen is 400 Euro , a 100 more then the Elegoo and the Anycubic. Should I wait till there are more affordable 4K's out there?
4K is always going to be pretty nice. That said, my Anycubic that Bernd now owns produced some killer HO details for me. I set my print resolution to 0.035mm for most things, going as low as 0.020" in some cases.
I didn't upgrade for the resolution but for the build plate size.
Always buy the best you can afford!
A quick update on the new computer and printer project.
I got my second computer Monday Mar. 1, ten days earlier than they said I would. That's a first.
So I got it home started to set everything up and I can't connect the video monitor cable. Why? Because the video port on the back of the computer dose not support a HDMI cable.
Here's a view of the back of the computer. This picture was sent to HPI. I complained because they didn't explain what I needed to hook up a monitor with a HDMI port.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2FMRH%2FTmp%2Fports.JPG&hash=438aecd5e38337c5926abc307bfde3fc0c95b7be)
So on a search I went. No joy from HPI Support, yet. I've posted a thread on another forum pointing out my problems with a cable. I had one guy come to my rescue. He had worked for HP and pointed me in the right direction. I also found out that this particular computer can come with several style video ports. Unfortunately the manual, I did down load a manual, wasn't much help. But that one modeler that came to my rescue helped by explaining what I had.
This is the port that the right most arrow is pointing to. There is a small icon that looks like a monitor screen. The other two ports to the left of that can also be connected to a monitor.
This is the port under the right most arrow.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/DisplayPort_Connector.svg/450px-DisplayPort_Connector.svg.png)
And this is what an HDMI port looks like.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/48/HDMI_Connector_Pinout.svg/465px-HDMI_Connector_Pinout.svg.png)
So I had to find a connector to be able to hook the HDMI cable into the port on the computer. This little device takes care of that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H37FY8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H37FY8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I ordered two, one for the first computer and one for the second computer.
Also order 4 8gig RAM boards to upgrade the second computer to 32g RAM. The other two will go into the first computer and become the wife's new computer. So I await the adapters which are promised to be here by this Thursday (Mar.4).
Then I can finally down load Fusion 360 and start the learning process.
Bernd
I'll make this short. I've got both new computers up and running. All it was is a small adapter that converted from the computer video port to the HDMI cable plug. Now all in need to do is add the extra 24gig of RAM. Need to figure out how to tell the computer it's got more brains.
Bernd
Quote from: Bernd on March 05, 2021, 03:50:15 PM
I'll make this short. I've got both new computers up and running. All it was is a small adapter that converted from the computer video port to the HDMI cable plug. Now all in need to do is add the extra 24gig of RAM. Need to figure out how to tell the computer it's got more brains.
Bernd
It -should be the case- that the computer (even if it's running Windows) figures that out for itself...
dave
Computer is up and running with 16gig of memory. Used the memory card from the first computer. Apparently I got the wrong items. Now for the fun of sending them back.
So I've got fusion 360, DraftSight 2021 and Chitubox loaded and running. Next is some intensive Fusion training watching Paul McWhorter's 13 lessons. Then it'll be on to using the 3D printer and print some model railroad item.
Bernd
Quote from: Janbouli on February 27, 2021, 07:38:23 PM
Some of the reviews I read on the Phrozen noted problems with the Z-axle , seriously thinking about this one because of the 4K , will be printing tiny things , so need the best detail possible for the budget . The Phrozen is 400 Euro , a 100 more then the Elegoo and the Anycubic. Should I wait till there are more affordable 4K's out there?
Jan, the new thing this year is going to be 4K and you can bet that you will see new ones popping up shortly from the other manufacturers out there. I am waiting just a bit before I pull the trigger on a Phrozen, as I already have 2 printers going and the Projet already gives me my 35micron resolution in the xy planes. I figured I can deal with the Z axis flaw by reinforcing the bracket. That is definitely a design flaw on their part. All their other printed do not have that issue.
When looking at a printer for the detail you want in N scale, you need the xy resolution to be as high as possible. The z resolution is controlled by the stepper which is just layer thickness. Reducing the Z steps gives you a cleaner looking print, but does not add to the feature size possible when you reduce the x/y resolution as you do when you go to 4K. Also, some printers have 4K screens, but use a lensing effect to cover a larger build area. In other words those printers are basically enlarging the pixel so you are back to 50 microns. Again in HO, you don't see as big of difference, but in N you definitely will.
... back to our regularly scheduled program "BERND'S ADVENTURES IN TEACHING THE COMPUTER NEW TRICKS!"
Some good info added there Darryl.
So after I got all the software loaded and working I followed the first two lesson by Paul. Got to the point where it was sent to the printer. My road took a bit of a turn. I discovere Fusion did want to export my file an STL. Some kin of cloud issue. I did want to send it to Autocad Meshmixer program. So I downloaded that sent the file from Fusion to it and then save it from Meshmixer in STL form into a folder. I was able to get it into Chitubox and slice it. So I have a bit of a longer path but I can get there from here. A few more lessons and then perhaps I may try printing something. First I need to decide on a resin product.
So that's it for now.
Bernd