The Modeler's Forum

I need to change up the beginning of this build thread, the first was just boring. So here is the true reason why Skeeters came to be on the Holland Odessa Railroad. It's the honest truth!

Work on the latest business located in Mandryville continues: G. DeMayo Chemical Co. specializes in the manufacture of the world famous Skeeters Fly Dope (mosquito repellent). Business literally took off when a local family, the Taltails, reported mosquitos had carried their baby off. No one in town even knew Mrs Annie Taltail had been pregnant. A massive search was conducted for baby Taltail but no trace was found. No matter, Skeeters Fly Dope flew off the selves as fast as it could be made. Production continued night and day, resulting in the construction of the first Coal powered electric generation facility west of Cleeevland (not yet built). The father of the lost baby, Carpy Taltail found work at Skeeters as Mr. G DeMayo took him under his wing due his terrible loss. Years later Carpy was made Production Manager. As such he learned the secret ingredient of Skeeters and sold it to DeMayo's competitor, a fellow by the name of Coopertone, who was desperate, being on the brink of bankruptcy. However this no good sonderal would not profit from his cheating ways. The secret ingredient Baron (Run Fast or Go Home) DeMayo had developed was none other than what we call DDT today. He was caught trying to leave the factory with a second veil . He quickly drank the evidence and was fired. Last anyone saw of him he had grown a couple of eyes and a tail. Some say a creature in the nearby canal was seen swimming that looked a lot like Carpy but most think he just Croaked.  DeMayo went on to bigger things but to this day legend has it no mosquitoes were seen in Mandryville ever again.

And with that let's begin: Skeeters Fly Dope was an imaginary chemical factory that operated at the turn of the last century. As such it will fit on my Ohio side layout perfectly. I have the directions and templates but no kit. I attempted to find the person who made the kit but to date no luck. They made 300 of this incredible kit in 1994, sold them and never made another. So without the kit I am going to make the structures using a Cameo 3 from Silhouette and a Cricut Maker. It is primarily because I am using these craft machines that I thought a kit build thread would be interesting to others.

So here is the original structure that was built by Dave Frary (he is spotlighted in the directions) for use in the advertising of the kit:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-130221195441-481561975.jpeg)

Pretty neat isn't it?

I bought a Cameo 3 about two years ago and learned it would score plastic up to .3 and so long as not intricate I could cut the parts out. I found with multiple passes I could cut very tight tolerances with styrene that was up to .15mm thick. Turns out the plastic signs that say 'Stay Out' and can be bought for a buck at Dollar Tree are .15mm styrene. I will be using it to make the windows. It also is great cutting mat board up to 1/16 in thick. I often use the matboard for the interior. The Cameo 3 can index so you can first print the cardstock and then cut it into the shape you want. Its' precision when done right is impressive. It uses a laser to determine the watermark lines.

This past Christmas I got a Cricut Maker from Santa. The Maker has the advantage of being able to cut Basswood up to 1/16 of an inch according to the directions but I suspect I may be able to cut 3/32 but for now 1/16 is all I need. I thought the Cricut Maker would replace the Cameo but have been surprised that the Cameo can actually do more then the Maker, at least what I am looking for. Both have significant learning curves and I have not really tried to learn all the Maker can do so I might change my mind in time. However for this project I will be using both depending on need.

This is the Cameo 3:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230321221233-48493115.jpeg)

And here is the Cricut Maker:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230321221234-4851187.jpeg)

I read that the Cameo 3 can produce a force of 225psi and the Cricut Maker can go up to almost 400psi. It is the extra force and special knife blade that enables the Maker to cut wood.

Anyhow I just wanted to introduce this project tonight. Follow along if you have any interest in using these cut machines. I am by no means a master modeler so what you might pick up are tips to use these machines more than anything on my level of artistic ability. I will finish this post with a photo of where I currently am at. All parts used except strip wood, Tichy Windows and glass were printed and cut using the two craft machines.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230321222859-485122322.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230321222859-48513487.jpeg)

Hey Jim:

I shall be following along.

Karl

I'll be looking in on this on Jim.....looks great so far.  8)

I purchased the Cameo 4, and so far I only used it for cutting paper signs using the magnetic trace tool.  SweetieBear has been using it for all types of crafty stuff.  I did do a test cut on some clapboard siding, while it did not cut all the way the through, I was still able to "pop-out" the pieces.


-Steven

Greg and Karl thanks for stopping by. This will be a little bit of a different build. I plan to spend significant time discussing the Cricut Maker and Cameo 3 abilities. In addition I will discuss the Photon S resin printer I have just started to learn and have parts being made for the buildings.

Jim D

Quote from: WigWag Workshop on March 24, 2021, 10:25:50 AM
I purchased the Cameo 4, and so far I only used it for cutting paper signs using the magnetic trace tool.  SweetieBear has been using it for all types of crafty stuff.  I did do a test cut on some clapboard siding, while it did not cut all the way the through, I was still able to "pop-out" the pieces.


-Steven

Hi Steven and welcome. The Cameo 3 has much in common with the Cameo 4 but the 4 is a significant improvement I understand. Hopefully this build will give you some ideas. I'm not sure I can upload the .svg files I have been making but if you see something you like let me know and I will e-mail it to you.  Some easy and helpful things the Cameo does for me are: Make perfect styrene 'glass' for Tichy windows. They provide the exact opening dimensions which you can plug in and drop in place.I often make cardstock mock ups using the Cameo to see where the kit should go on layout and get idea how it will look. I have spent a lot of time and effort to develop realistic palm trees using vellum paper that I make into the palm fronds. The cameo will score styrene up to .3 thick which can be snapped out and I use that feature a lot to make detail parts. I feel i have only scratched the surface. Now with the Cricut Maker I an do even more.

The only reason this kit can be made close to the kit design are the well written instructions that contain excellent in scale diagrams and drawings. Before I began working on making the complex I scanned the diagrams. I have read the directions twice but also again read the part on what I am working on before attempting to cut out the needed parts.

In order for either of these cutters to work they need to read a .svg file. These files can be made using Corral-Draw, Illustrator or any other design program. In addition you can use the design program from Silhouette. It is much like Illustrator but much simpler to use. While it does not have many of the artistic functions of Adobe products, for structure modeling it is more than enough if you upgrade to the 'Designer' addition. I paid $35.00 for this upgrade, then another $65.00 for the 'Business Edition'. The advantage of the Business Edition is it saves to and import from a wide variety of data files. It has additional functions but the big thing is the file saving and importing. With it you can export plain .svg files which I then import for use on the Cricut Maker. The Cricut Maker's Design Program is web based and frankly only good for importing already completed .svg files and having the Cricut Maker cut based on them. It's own capabilities are extremely poor making this the weak link of the Cricut machines. OK enough talk let's get started.

The reason for scanning the diagrams is to create scale correct .jpeg files that can be then imported into the design program (I am going to be using the Silhouette Business Edition). First I will be making the Office and Lab building. It is the small building attached to the front of main building with an enclosed staircase going up to the elevator tower. Here is the front:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-300321194743-485801459.jpeg)

Here is the full size template for the walls of office/ lab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-300321200538-485851955.jpeg)

As you can see very detailed.

The jpeg file is imported into the design program and checked to make sure it is the correct scale. First time I pulled in a .75 scale template and promptly made four walls that were good for nothing  ::).

Once the template is in the program I use the design tools to outline the walls and create an image that can be cut by the Cricut Maker. I suggest you use the Transparency Function and make the imported jpeg image see through. This allows you to make the needed lines and ensure they are exactly where they are needed. I also recommend you use the Enlarge Function to magnify the image so you see the lines clearly. Finally, I recommend that in the Settings section of the design program you set the 'grid' to on, make the measurements in metric mm and set the grid to 3.5mm square. This is an exact scale for HO with 3.5mm being 1 square foot. Following the manual I had the Cricut Maker cut the walls out of plain 1/16 basswood. I did the same for the roof which is shown on another template. The cuts were so clean I did not have to trim or sand any part.

I braced per the directions with 1/8 basswood, assembled the walls and roof using canopy glue and a magnetic tray to keep things square. I found the needed Tichy windows in my stash, primed them gray, then airbrushed them with Vallejo Flat Red. I only paint the front and sides of the window frame so when the it is glued in place it attaches directly to the plastic and not just the paint.

This complex has a lot of lighting shown. The original kit came with non functioning lights since cheap LED's were not available. I'll be using LED's to add a little more detail. Here is the two gooseneck lights for the Office installed. You also see I used real cedar shingles which I think I got from KC's Workshop but the bag they came in is missing so I am not sure. Anyhow, I weathered the shingles using an airbrush to get a grayer look.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-300321210519-485871015.jpeg)

The Tichy Windows had real glass installed rather then the acetate. It is something I like to do and think it makes the structure look a little more real. I used calipers to get exact measurements of the openings, made a simple jig using post-it-notes and cut the microscope glass cover glass using a General Tool #88 carbon tip scribe. The glass fit great. I place just a dab of UV activated CA in each corner of the window tray, put the glass in place then hit it with the UV flashlight to bond it. If I smear the glass I take it back out before bonding it and clean the glass with acetone, put it back and try again. Very little glue is needed and the UV CA gets the job done quickly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-300321210522-485892406.jpeg)

Finally, the foundation I used was 1/8 inch thick basswood laser cut brick from Monster Models. I airbrushed it with Vallejo red brick, used a couple of magic markers to 'paint' individual bricks shades of brown and filled the brick lines using sanding grout and a watery mix of Modge Podge. I attempted to dove the corners. Nope, did not do it right so settled on Modge Podge / burnt Umber paint mix to create runoff look at each corner. Most of the foundation will be covered by decks so using the brick might have been overkill. I do like the way the directions suggest using the foundation to help brace the structure. It really helped and the inset looks about right for 'real' world. Something I plan to remember on future builds using 1/16th inch siding.

The roof of the Office and staircase are rolled tar paper. I used plain masking tape and cut the width to 3 foot. The masking tape gives a little ripple to the roof. I dry brushed and used Tim Holtz Distressed Crayons to weather the roof. This is the first time I have used the crayons having heard about them in a YouTube video. So far I like them. They are acrylic based so you can use water to remove any that was put on too thick or did not look right. When I am done weathering I will use a Matte Varnish to make sure the crayons are locked in place. While once applied the crayon acrylic does not move but if water ever hits it, it re activates. So here is the Office Lab:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-300321210520-485881699.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-130221194447-481542366.jpeg)

I will post more tomorrow.

I am following the building directions as much as possible but am not following the directions when it comes to paint scheme and building materials. Some suggestions (like the paint) are no longer available others like LED lights were not yet on the market.

The directions have the staircase and tower to be built next and attached to the office. I again imported a 100% scale diagram, outlined the areas to be cut and had the Cricut Maker do its magic. This time I used 1/16 inch thick basswood board and batten from St Alberts. When cutting the material take time to ensure the material is EXACTLY aligned in the correct position. If it is not the cutter WILL produce a part that has the board and batten (or clapboard) looking crooked. I know  ::). I did not take a picture of this screw-up but I did take one of cutting the walls of main building to .75 of scale, Opps!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-310321075721-48595400.jpeg)

I decided to cut out all walls for the main building at this time since I had finally figured out the sequence for cutting. You must use a very clean (new) 'Strong Tack' mat when cutting wood and you must also tape the wood to the mat on all four sides using masking tape. The cutter is moving back and forth so any slippage of the wood on the mat will result in a bad cut. It sounds like more then it is. Once understood it goes pretty quick. The advantage over hand cutting is the precision more than speed.

For the Main Building I used 1/16 inch clapboard. I ran out of the St Albert sheet and had to use some board from Bar Mills to finish. The Bar Mill material had the same pattern but is darker. Since all will be painted I did not worry about it. I glued the two boards together and then taped them in place for cutting.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-250321073409-485142481.jpeg)

The board was trimmed away from the windows, all windows were made using same technique as previously explained, the tower was braced per directions and painted. The paint scheme you see is not what I ended up with. The look was toyish and frankly ugly. Oh well, Here is what it looked like when first done:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-310321081927-485971766.jpeg)

I increased the bracing significantly for the Main Building. The directions rely too much on a upper level floor arrangement and the foundation. All interiors are being painted with Cermacoat Charcoal Black so when looking in nothing is seen. However I am thinking of putting an interior on the second floor. There are so many windows I think you will be able to see interior detail if lighted. So with the walls braced and glued together (again using the magnetic tray to make sure all walls are true). I leave off the corner trim (1/16 x 1/16 inch basswood) until all walls are glued together and dry. I fine it better to add after so you can either use a different color or to make sure all is trued up when the walls are being glued together.

Not one color in the photo below was kept. At this point the main building and tower/ lab are not glued together. The enclosed staircase in the kit uses a very neat laser cut interlocking tab construction. It looked to have too tight of tolerances for the Cricut to make so I opted to make it by just cutting out the design of the walls, bracing them and gluing them together. The back wall of both the tower and staircare are plain 1/16 inch Basswood while the other walls are the Board and Batten.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020321223316-482932133.jpeg)

More in a few.

Hey Jim:

It's coming along nicely. Great progress shots.

Karl

Quote from: Jim Donovan on March 31, 2021, 08:43:33 AM
More in a few.

It's been more than a few............... ;D

Bummer, Greg you are right, I was called away by the Boss. Anyway, I have found I can much more easily import photos so I have been leaving them large. Looks a little odd when viewing but does show more detail. I am going to change things up a little. I am will post the photo(s) first and then describe what it is and what I did.

Back to catching up:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-150321214646-48380264.jpeg)

The upper section of the main building is what gives it its character. Called a Clerestory (new word to me) there are a row of tilt windows on the lower level and then another on an upper level. I am sure this is so rising hot air can escape and ventilation is improved. Anyway the kit directions have you construct the area using another set of interlocking tabs, some of which I was able to duplicate. The rest I designed myself.

One of the things I have found odd in craftsman kits is the lack of plastic except for doors and windows. I understand not using it for the outer walls but it sure beats the pressboard most kits use for the roofs and other 'not seen' items. Therefore, for the floor of the Clerestory I used .2 styrene cut to fit  per directions where the side roof clapboard starts. I used 1/8 x 1/8 basswood strips to help make it rigid. To glue these two dissimilar materials I used Walters Goo. The walls that create the upper cherestory were cut out of the same 1/16 inch clapboard as the side main walls. These were glued to the floor, connected by a 1/8 basswood strip at their tops and braced. I tried to cut out the window frames using 1/16th in clapboard using the Cricut Maker but failed, the tolerances were too close and the wood too fragile. However it would cut matboard and .15 thick styrene so I made the frames using these materials. The matboard was sandwiched between a sheet of styrene on each side.

I had hoped to have this sub assembly remain loose and not glued to the walls, however construction issues down the road forced me to glue it in place. I did place an LED light on each upper wall so this section can be lighted. They are 12 volt warm LED's and I plan to be able to dim them.

Jim. That building is coming out great.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-010421212546-487022080.jpeg)

I again turned to .2mm styrene for the six sections that make up the roof. The Cameo 3 was used to cut out the line drawings made from the provided templates. Drawing these basic rectangles and such is easy and really does no take much time. You could use the template and cut out the parts directly but the machine cuts are dead on with incredible precision. I draw in metric due to its ease of calculating and this being HO scale which is exactly 1 scale foot = 3.5mm. When I mean precision I mean I am drawing to .0001 mm. Both machines are able to operate to that level of tolerance.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-010421094456-48613365.jpeg)

These two sections are for the middle roof. Note they have 'tails' which wrap around the upper end wall sections. The lower two roof sections also have this feature making correct sizing a must. I used 2 x 10 trim on the bottom and middle roofs to provide strength and eliminate drooping. The directions do not call for trim on the upper section and at this point I have not added any. For looks I might add it down the road. I stained the trim using Hunterline Barn Red. I will be using this color wherever trim is needed and a trim color is called for.

Quote from: Dennis Bourey on April 01, 2021, 09:45:40 PM
Jim. That building is coming out great.

Thank you Dennis, you are up late (for me) tonight. I hope this report helps someone else who tries using these print/ cutters. Appreciate you stopping by.

Jim D

Jim, I'm really impressed by the job that cutter does.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-010421222212-4870571.jpeg)

The lower and upper roof panels were glued in place but the middle section is just a tight force fit so that the lower two floors can be worked on, more on that later.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-010421222214-48707580.jpeg)
To come up with a good shingle for around 1910 I Googled old shingles and came across a treasure trove of information in the Architect Magazine Archives. There I found a copy of the John Mansville catalog showing their new Asbious Shingles and how to install them. Using the diagrams I made an exact scale copy of one of the styles. I used the Cameo 3, first printing on the .05 mm cardstock the shingle design in gray, then having it cut out the strips of shingles I had duplicated. By accident I spilled a little HunterLine Red on a strip. The resulting color and look was almost a dead on copy of the Indian Red color found in the Mansville catalog. I figured I better use it before someone was offended by the name. Let's just call mine Autumn Red. Anyway, I first put 3M's 465 two-sided tape on each roof panel. Then I put a starter strip on 1/16 inch wide cardstock along the bottom of each. Finally, after lightly staining the strips I applied them to the panel working my way up the roof and making sure to stagger the tabs and ensuring each row overlapped the previous.

Quote from: Dennis Bourey on April 01, 2021, 10:20:41 PM
Jim, I'm really impressed by the job that cutter does.

Dennis I agree, these machines are amazing, wait till you see what they did making window frames! The Cameo seems to be able to do close in work a little better but the Maker is the heavy duty cutter.

Jim D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-010421222213-487061525.jpeg)

So here is the roof completed on the building. To finish the caps I followed the Mansville catalog. Using 1/16 inch dowels I sanded them about in half, so one side was flat and the other rounded. I then lapped two scale foot cap shingles across the dowel, overlapping each to the one prior using Elmers glue to hold them in place. The dowels were cut to size and glued over the top rows producing a rounded cap.

That's it for now. More to come soon.

Jim D

IT MAKES WINDOW'S?

Hey Jim.....I used Johns Manville roll roofing for flat roofs and their shingles for sloped roofs in the 70's. They made excellent products and we had great success with their materials. Good looking roof..... 8)

Jim,
Nice progress photos on your build.
It's really taking shape.
Keep sharing them.
Tommy

Thanks guys. I spent a lot of time figuring out the settings needed for the cutters. The Cameo 3 is proving to be the better machine for cutting styrene plastic in tight spots. Still I have to spend an amazing amount of time to get things right. The nice thing is once figured out it is repeatable. I will list my settings going forward and put them in for what I have already done.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-050421101327-48727135.jpeg)

I used the Cameo 3 to make the lower and upper Clerestory windows. I started with .15mm thick styrene approximately 8 x 10 (No Parking Signs made of plastic). Settings were: Depth .2mm, Force 33, speed 2 and number of passes 6. I used a 60 degree blade. The acetate was .1mm. Same settings used. To make the window I used the Tichy chart for their window for the width and height. This becomes the dimensions for the outer frame outer. The next part is the frame for the Mullins. It was sized so that it fits inside the window opening. This allows the window to be closed flush to the outer wall. In order for the mullins to have the inner styrene removed an X was made in each pane. This allows for the plastic to be separated from the mullin without damaging it. From the above picture you can see this was not always successful so I always make extras. Next is the acetate which is made the same dimension as the mullin frame. Finally there is a back frame which turned out not to be needed.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-050421101327-487262063.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020421091848-487089.jpeg)
The frames were primed gray on the white side of the plastic. The backside which had some of the original sign paint on it was left as is. After drying they were airbrushed with Vallejo flat red.Tamiya Thin Cement was used to assemble each window. Finally all were sprayed a coat of Krylon Matt Varnish. The result was this:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-050421101328-487282050.jpeg)

All that work instead of simply using Tichy windows was to enable me to set the windows both open and closed. When done here is the result:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-110421220202-488381620.jpeg)

That's it for now.

With the installation of the windows I decided to build the various loading docks, decks and equipment that is part of the the main building. The plans have detailed drawings showing the wood sizes to be used and the method to construct the parts such as the Pulley hoist with roof overhang on the elevator tower. Moreover the directions explain what stains and paints to use and in what order things are to be done. However the paints and stains are no longer available so I used my own ideas. For the docks and bumpers I used Hunterline Driftwood Stain. The strip wood was soaked in a tray of the stain for about 10 seconds then set on a paper towel to dry. A copy of the original scale drawing for each deck was placed under a piece of parchment paper with both taped to the work mat. The parchment paper is translucent so the details of the scale drawing are easily seen. Then it was just a matter of cutting the correct size strip wood as needed and gluing it in place using Canopy glue exactly over the drawing to the part it connects with. The following photo shows the L shape deck for the Office and the loading dock for the backside of structure next to where the chemical tanks will go. The steel weight was used to keep the parts in their place while the glue dried. The decks are 1 x 10 top boards, Joists are 2 x 6 and the base is 8 x 8.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172456-49145418.jpeg)

For the second floor staircase I used the same materials and stain as with the decks except for the stringers.. These I made using the Silhouette Cameo 3 cutter. The stringers were designed by first importing a .jpeg copy of the diagram drawing into the Silhouette design program using the scanning function on a inkjet printer. If you do this make sure the imported .jpeg is sized correctly (8.5 x 11 inches). Once in the design program I made the .jpeg image transparent so the design grid of the program is seen. Finally I make this Layer 2. This keeps the drawing where you want it but since it won't be the top layer (layer 1) it won't interfere as you manipulate the lines drawn over it. Using the line function, the staircase stringers are copied and the file saved. Layer 1 is sent to the Cameo 3 and cut exactly to shape. I use 8.5 x 11 photo paper (64 pound stock) for the stringer material instead of wood as it allows much closer cuts. 8 stringers are cut out. Taking two they are glued together using Canopy Glue and allowed to dry completely with a weight to hold the stringer flat and ensure a tight bond. The same is done for the other pairs of stringers. Once completely dry Driftwood Stain is lightly brushed onto the completed stringers.  To construct the sections of the staircase I made a jig the correct length and width for the stringers to rest in allowing the steps to be glued in place and dry. Here you see the staircase completed except for the railing. After this photo was taken the railing was installed and the landing platforms touched up with the Hunterline stain to match the stringer color. 
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172622-491511206.jpeg)

In addition to utilizing the two print/ cutters I am using the Photon S printer I was given at Christmas. This resin printer will operate to .1mm thick per layer to produce amazing detailed castings. Here it has just finished making some chairs, they are upside down attached to the moving platen. From here they will be put in an alcohol bath, washed and cured using UV light. Finally painted. It makes details I would not be able to add otherwise..

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172621-491502213.jpeg)

The L braces on the elevator doors were 3D printed. The original file was a full size L brace re-sized to HO scale. I don't think you can see them but it printed out the brace including the holes for the bolts. The lower deck bumpers were donut shapes cut using the Cameo 3 with Tichy Bolts inserted. These will be weathered later.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172456-491461993.jpeg)

There are a lot of outside goose lights on the original Skeeter's though they did not light. With LED lights now available I am lighting the gooseneck outside lights as well as lighting some of the interior. I am playing around with possible interior details which you might see in some of the following photos but not sure if I will go with it.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172456-49149286.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172456-491482376.jpeg)

Lastly I added the Skeeter sign on the elevator tower. The cork on the right will be the frame for the water tower.  So we are caught up with where I am at this point. Much more to do.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172456-49147272.jpeg)

Looking good Jim.....the detail you get with that 3D printer is amazing.  8)

Thanks Greg;

Sorry so long responding. I have never worked on a building so much and made so little progress. I swear I have done each part at least twice. Sometimes it is finding a better way that results in a better look, other times it is simply because I did not know what I was doing.

In any event I have continued on the project and finally have enough to share.  Anyone with ideas on how it could be improved or done another way please jump in.

I left off starting work on the water tower.  It is a good example of my two steps forward, one step backward approach to building this structure. My first attempt consisted of making a paper cone for the roof and covering the cork stopper I was using as the tank base with board on board 2 x 4 stripwood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621072335-495382025.jpeg)

Not how it was completed. Paper cone proved too flimsy and cork diameter too small. Instead I designed and printed out a 3D resin top and a 3D resin base. I then glued the stained stripwood (Hunter Line Medium Brown stain) to the base and for the top I used Campbell shingles previously painted using Cermacoat Sky Gray and Cable Gray using the sponge dabbing method to get a weathered wood shingle look. Finally, a dusting of green pastel powder was brushed on to create a mold effect caused by the evaporating water.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621072103-495302082.jpeg)

A small water hatch was made and installed along with a wood ladder to hatch. Finally a 3D printed lighting rod modeled after the original in the plans was painted natural steel on the rod and flat red on its base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621080249-49540438.jpeg)

To create the steel wire bands used to hold the water tanks together I decided to try something different. I noted in the photo's of the eBay model I am using as reference many of the bands had separated, I assume it is from the glue releasing with age. To counter this I decided to use Heavy EZ Line (brown), which is a elastic multifiber line used primarily to replicate telephone wire. I determined the cork top I had not used for the water tank would work great as a mold to wrap the line around when making a knot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621071841-495271684.jpeg)

To complete the  band I used Tichy (and then my own designed 3D printed) Turnbuckles. The line was placed through the two eyes of the turnbuckle a knot made, excess trimmed and knot was now inside the turnbuckle. Overall I was very pleased with the result, the bands are able to stay where I wanted on the tank. I sprayed a mixture of 1 part Mod Podge to 4 parts water on each tank to lock the bands in place so they do not move is accidentally. So here is result:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621072335-495351405.jpeg)

But wait, there is more.

Did you know that the wire bands on water tanks are single wire coils? Moreover, turnbuckles are NOT used to attach and tighten the coil to the tank. Instead there is a special fitting used for this purpose. Well I know now as a couple of much better modelers than myself pointed out when I showed them my process. Still I like the look the EZ line provides over single strand wire as well as its ability to be fashioned in a loop so no glue is needed to keep it in shape on the tank. So I am going to chalk that up to 'artistic license'. As for the turnbuckles, I filled in the neat looking openings so they appear solid and called it a day. So here is an example of the completed turnbuckle/ coil band prior to it being filled in, never to be seen again:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621085109-495421535.jpeg)

:o ::)

More a little while, need to mow the grass.

The chemical tank farm is what makes this structure unique. I used the Photon S 3D resin printer to produce parts that really add detail.  Some parts started as files downloaded from Thingiverse.com. Others I learned how to make using an free online CAD program called Tinkercad. There is definitely a learning curve involved with the 3D resin printer and the CAD program. I must have spent the better part of two weeks to get all the parts correct. I am just a beginner on using these machines, still I was able to make what I wanted. As we all like photos here is the stages of the construction.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621071541-495222396.jpeg)
The tank farm was made with a copy of the template glued to a sheet of micro plywood. The wood was glued to the floor. Modge Podge was painted over all and in a second layer the outer walls were stippled so as to produce a more 'concrete' look. When done it was painted using concrete gray

LOVELY work, Jim. Love seeing another 3D printer at work around these parts, too!

I'll be checking back in regularly.

Thanks Rusty, it is fun trying new things. It sure has been a learning experience.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621071840-495261055.jpeg)
The two large tanks were made using a cardboard tube that was the correct diameter. The other three were made using the 3D printer since I could not find any tubes the right diameter. Stained stripwood was glued to the sides and top.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621071333-49521898.jpeg)
Using the shown templates tank support frames were made and placed as indicated.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621072104-4953242.jpeg)
The plumbing supports were placed and 'metal' cradles were 3D designed, printed and painted.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621072103-49531607.jpeg)
I used the same technique to make the bands for the chemical tanks done for the water tank, however I was able to eliminate the turnbuckle appearance of the fasteners. Using the resin printer I made and installed the pipes and fittings. The detail of the printer is amazing, especially for a machine costing $160.00. The castings show rivets, nuts, bolts and flanges in perfect scale.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621211817-495601209.jpeg)
I had to re-print the pipes and fitting a couple of times to get sizing realistic. The large tank fittings are still a little big but I decided they would do. I found metal ladder files on Thingiverse producing exact scale copies including the metal brackets holding the ladder to the tank. The man climbing the ladder was also a file and printed. The detail he has rivels Priser figures, perhaps better since there are no mold release lines.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621211645-495591898.jpeg)
Here is a better view of the plumbing. The parts were first primed using Krylon flat black spray can, then weathered with pastel powders to bring out the detail.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621211645-495571224.jpeg)
These old wooden tanks leak a lot so Sam is on his way up to find out what is going on.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621211645-49558772.jpeg)

Something I would like to share is the trick I did for the Zip Kicker. The plumbing was all connected using Hobby Lobby Thick CA Glue. To get the parts to dry fast and in the right place I used the Kicker, however applying it was driving me nuts. Finally I settled on using a small eye dropper which would wander off it seemed after every use. The cure was sticking it to the bottle. Here I have velcro but later I found a simple strip of two sided tape worked best.

I epoxied a small brass rod to my bottle of kicker to hold the dropper, great minds think alike! 

By the way, Grandt Line has tank hoop fasteners:  https://www.walthers.com/hoop-fasteners-water-tank (https://www.walthers.com/hoop-fasteners-water-tank)

dave

Thanks Dave for checking in and thanks for where the correct fasteners can be had. I knew someone must have them but could not locate them. I never use to use Zip Kicker and hardly ever use regular super glue but on this project I am finding it my go to glue in a lot of cases.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621080249-495412260.jpeg)

So here is the finished result. You will note the fence has been replaced with a 3D printed frame with a fabric mesh glued to it using UV CA Glue. It was painted and weathered using same method as the plumbing. Also note that the main plumbing to the building is attached to boards. The boards have bolts and are weathered so when the tank farm is placed next to the building it appears all connected but allows for the section to be moved as needed.

And that is it for now.

Jim,

I've been following this build and realized I haven't commented. I thought I did but I guess I forgot to press "post".

This is an amazing build. Love all the details and fine work. A wonderful build and it looks fantastic.

Great job my friend.

Tom  ;D

Jim


I'm just getting caught up on your build, great work and build thread. I will be following along.

Well done with the tank farm Jim.....looks great.  8)

Quote from: ACL1504 on June 22, 2021, 07:25:01 AM
Jim,

I've been following this build and realized I haven't commented. I thought I did but I guess I forgot to press "post".

This is an amazing build. Love all the details and fine work. A wonderful build and it looks fantastic.

Great job my friend.


Tom  ;D

Thank you Tom. I truly appreciate the the kind words. I have enjoyed and learned a tremendous amount with this build. Hopefully I can keep it going there are two more structures as part of this chemical facility.

Quote from: S&S RR on June 22, 2021, 07:35:48 AM
Jim


I'm just getting caught up on your build, great work and build thread. I will be following along.

Hi John glad you checked in and the compliment. This build is going slowly, mostly because I need to re-check my work constantly but sure have learned a lot. More to come.

Quote from: GPdemayo on June 22, 2021, 07:48:07 AM
Well done with the tank farm Jim.....looks great.  8)

Thanks Greg, hope you like seeing your idea come to life.

One of the interesting features of this structure is the amount of lighting. There are gooseneck lights over doors, signs and work areas. When the kit version was produced in 1994 they were only able to use dummy versions that did not function. With LED now common I was able to bring this feature to life. I used Even Design Gooseneck 3.5 volt lights wherever a gooseneck light was placed.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230621082722-496511543.jpeg)
Here you see where I have added two copper tape strips up the wall of the interior to the bottom of the roof floor. This is the main line all of the lights are attached and will connect to the 12 volt DC accessory line on the layout.

The two office gooseneck lights were attached together in series with the thin wires of the lights run to a small 'cooper pad' so they could be connected to each other and the main line easier. A Mirro Lumina current limiter was placed ahead of the lights on the (+) side to make sure the lights receivedonly 3.5 volts. The same was done for the other gooseneck lights. Finally, a three yellow light LED strip was glued to the bottom of the roof and wired direct to the main line. These strip lights operate on 12 volts so did not need a current limiter. It all looks more involved then it is and did not take a lot of time to accomplish

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220200-49641101.jpeg)

The orgional kit has no interior features however I decided to have a floor separating the first and second levels. The second floor would be lighted and the first would not so the floor acts as a light block. I started with a sheet of .3mm styrene cut to fit then added a stained (Hunterline Driftwood) fitted sheet of simulated board on board flooring using super glue. To the floor I added several resin printed office  items the 3D printer had made. I had kept the glass windows intentionally as clean as possible so you could see into the room. When lighted you can indeed objects adding a little flavor. I may add a chemical vat in the future but not much more since you can only glimpse what is inside.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220200-4964250.jpeg)
I would love to tell you the complicated attachment system I came up with to hold the floor in place but allow for it to be removed as needed. Instead this is what I came up with, the small clothes pins work just fine and any light bleed to the first floor when lighted is not noticeable.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230621082722-496521574.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-020521172456-491482376.jpeg)

 (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220159-49632860.jpeg)

I used Tinkercad to create a version of the lighting rods seen on the original model. Tinkercad (tinkercad.com) is a web based 3D Cad program free to use and supported by Autocad. By using the kid class tutorials found on the site along with watching YouTube videos I have learned enough to produce very simple objects like this. The original were brass etched and interconnected to form the X look of the base. WIth Tinkercad I was able to make a close version.

With the lighting rods in place all that was left was adding signs and some trim parts. In the photo in last post you can see some of the signs. I am trying something different. Rather then the tried and true paper signs method I printed mine on very thin vinyl sheeting that has adhesive on one side. Made for use on the Cricut Maker I designed the signs in Silhouette, printed them on the Canon laser printer and had the Maker cut them out. They were placed and then Tim Holtz distressed vintage matte finish paste applied. They seem to work, time will tell.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-230621082722-496521574.jpeg)

At this point the main building is essentially done. Next up the power plant.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220350-496431133.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220350-496441660.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220350-496461620.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-210621211645-495591898.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220513-49649285.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220621220513-496502055.jpeg)

Love the lighting Jim.....G. DeMayo Chemical Company..... ;)

What a great build!!


Jerry

Hey Jim:

Looks just beautiful.

Karl

Jim


Love the interior detail and lighting - it really gives the model another dimension.  I use photographs to check my work and you are really doing a great job on this.

Very well done. sir.

Looking fantastic, Jim.

Really enjoying this build coming together.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Jerry on June 23, 2021, 01:48:07 PM
What a great build!!


Jerry

Thanks Jerry glad you are liking it. Trying to push myself on this one.

Jim

Hey Jim:

where did you find that Ambler Asbestos add. I was born and raised there and lived there for most of my life.  the K&M asbestos co. was the  (Keasby  & Mattison Co.). We had lots of asbestos waste piles around town. We called them the White mountains. They have all been removed. The Shingle Plant was behind the Ambler RR Station. It was torn down about A year ago. The main factory building has been turned into quite A lovely office building. Anyway that's A neat sign. There are plenty of buildings in Ambler and surrounding towns with those shingles on the roofs and sidewalls. By-the-way there are two Amblers in the us. The other is in Alaska.

Karl

Karl

Quote from: postalkarl on June 26, 2021, 08:55:11 PM
Hey Jim:

where did you find that Ambler Asbestos add. I was born and raised there and lived there for most of my life.  the K&M asbestos co. was the  (Keasby  & Mattison Co.). We had lots of asbestos waste piles around town. We called them the White mountains. They have all been removed. The Shingle Plant was behind the Ambler RR Station. It was torn down about A year ago. The main factory building has been turned into quite A lovely office building. Anyway that's A neat sign. There are plenty of buildings in Ambler and surrounding towns with those shingles on the roofs and sidewalls. By-the-way there are two Amblers in the us. The other is in Alaska.

Karl

Hi Karl;

Thanks for following along . Amazing you know about that factory, it is a small world. I found the catalog along with an incredible treasure trove of building information at: https://archive.org/details/buildingtechnologyheritagelibrary

They have collected over 10,000 catalogs of building suppliers prior to 1964. I have only scratched the surface of this resource.

Jim D

Hey Jim:

Thanks for the reply.

Karl

My late brother (the carpenter) would have loved that cache of old building catalogs!


dave

Jim,
Your build came out great.
Those storage tanks are really neat.
Nice photos !
Tommy

It has been some time since I last posted but I have been learning and spending time on the next part of the complex, the steam pump house. First, thanks everyone for the nice comments on how the first part came out. Since finishing it I of course came up with a bunch of things I would change but time to work on part two.

The original Skeeter's steam pump house was made out of wood. I plan for my version to use brick and be enlarged so an interior can be viewed. Here is what the original looked like for reference.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921201626-506561296.jpeg)

More in a minute.

Monster Modeling came out with a 1/32 inch version of their successful laser cut brick, it looks amazing. Since I want the brick to be seen on both the outer and inner wall I need to create a 'sandwich' with the 1/32 basswood laser brick glued to to 1/16 inch plywood for the two sides.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921193703-506442091.jpeg)

Monster Modeling makes laser cut brick columns for their sheets but they come in 1/8 inch square. Because the 'sandwich' ends up being a little over 1/8 inch thick (glue and expansion) the two end walls needed to have the sandwich material adjusted. Instead of birchwood plywood I used two sheets of heavy cardstock to create the needed thickness and allow the corner columns to hopefully be flush with the siding when glued together. The math says it should work and the test fit looks promising.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921193704-506451525.jpeg)

I used Elmers Wood Glue (yellow) when combining the three panels together to make each wall. The wood glue won't give way when the wood gets wet in future processing. By using material no thicker then 1/16 inch thick I was able to design the walls using Silhouette Designer and precision cut them using the Cricut Printer. While I like the precision the Cricut gives I did have issues getting a good clean cut, twice it slipped while cutting, ruining the wall. This step could most likely have been done simply by making a template and carefully cutting the wood to shape.

The design I settled on reminds me of the old steam power stations I have seen with the massive arch windows that tilt open to help ventilate the building as well as light the interior.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921214411-50659293.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921214411-506582050.jpeg)


To get the wanted 3 arch windows per side I ended up adding about 12 scale feet to the length of the building. I kept the width and height the same as the original design.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921193704-506471422.jpeg)

So here is a first look of the result. As you see I am making the arch windows large enough that a great deal will be visible (I hope) when completed.

More in a few.

What I have spent much time on is learning to use Tinkercad for making 3D parts, such as windows, that are unique and more realistic than those I have made using 2D cutters like Cricut Maker. If you would like to learn more about Tinkercad here is the link:

https://www.tinkercad.com/

After much trial and error I designed arch style windows having three tilting panels consisting of 3 pane eachs. It is designed to look like concrete and will be slightly extended from the surrounding brick. The lower sill extends approximately a scale foot from the wall. Here is a screenshot of the final master Tinkercad design file:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921220553-506601249.png)

You can see each window is actually made up of the master window with necessary cut outs, three tilt panels and finally a backplate that when glued in place will lock the windows into the arch frame. Finally there will be three glass panels attached to the tilt window frames and an upper glass panel for the fixed panes. Here is the first prototype without glass installed:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921201626-506551064.jpeg)

I am becoming more comfortable with the design program as well as the 3D Photon S printer. However I can not tell you how many windows were made, found unacceptable and thrown away. Two bottles of resin worth. For those curious here is how the production version of the window parts looked when first made:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921194104-50652171.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921194104-506531695.jpeg)

Once made they are detached from the platten, cut from the support bracing, sanded (where bracing was) and then painted as normal.

Here is a photo of final test fit of windows in the cut brick siding:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-260921222929-506612168.jpeg)

Hopefully it won't be another two months before I can report progress but thanks for checking in.

Wow!!! That's a great thing you picked up and learned Jim.

Spectacular, Jim. Your new design for the boiler house will be a real focal point.

Amazing Jim.  That's quite an upgrade.  :)

Impressive design & print work Jim.

Great progress Jim and interesting structure change.....those windows are amazing.  8)

That looks awesome Jim.

Quote from: Dennis Bourey on September 26, 2021, 10:36:23 PM
Wow!!! That's a great thing you picked up and learned Jim.

Thanks Dennis. It amazes me the rapid changes in technology happening.  Being retired allows me the luxury of sampling some of them. Helps keep the brain from turning into mush too.

Jim D

Quote from: vinceg on September 27, 2021, 02:57:18 AM
Spectacular, Jim. Your new design for the boiler house will be a real focal point.

Thanks Vince

I have a Crow River foundation boiler kit waiting for a home. This will be it's home.

Jim D

Quote from: ReadingBob on September 27, 2021, 07:08:29 AM
Amazing Jim.  That's quite an upgrade.  :)

Thanks Bob. We will see where this adventure goes. Hopefully not off the rails. 😀

Jim D

Quote from: carl b on September 27, 2021, 07:31:36 AM
Impressive design & print work Jim.

Carl thank you. Hopefully it will all come together.

Jim D

I really like those windows.  Wonderful tech, 3-D printers, but a big learning curve. I have heard it is an entire hobby unto itself.
Looks like you are doing VERY well with it, though.

--Opa George

Quote from: GPdemayo on September 27, 2021, 07:48:27 AM
Great progress Jim and interesting structure change.....those windows are amazing.  8)

Greg you certainly got me thinking on this build, we will see how it goes.

Jim D

Quote from: PRR Modeler on September 27, 2021, 07:56:35 AM
That looks awesome Jim.

Curt, thanks for stopping by and encouragement. I hope I can keep it going.

Jim D

Quote from: Opa George on September 27, 2021, 08:42:04 AM
I really like those windows.  Wonderful tech, 3-D printers, but a big learning curve. I have heard it is an entire hobby unto itself.
Looks like you are doing VERY well with it, though.

--Opa George

George, thanks for checking in and the comments. 3D printing is indeed its own hobby and I doubt I will ever be a master at it. I just like what it can do to enable me to expand my modeling efforts. I will leave the wargaming models to others. 😀

Jim D

And to think, I'm just trying to get the hang of lighting building interiors and you are doing some amazing work on 3-D printing.
I didn't realize that the MMW brick sheets came in thin material.  It has to be easier to cut than the 1/8" stuff.
Keep up the good work.

Hey Jim:

It's looking just great so far. Keep the pic coming.

Karl

Quote from: Oldguy on September 27, 2021, 10:07:08 AM
And to think, I'm just trying to get the hang of lighting building interiors and you are doing some amazing work on 3-D printing.
I didn't realize that the MMW brick sheets came in thin material.  It has to be easier to cut than the 1/8" stuff.
Keep up the good work.

Bob sorry for slow reply, the wife and I have been traveling for better part of three weeks. Thank you for the encouragement. The 1/32 is indeed much easier to cut then the 1/8th inch brick sheets. However, the brick cuts are so deep they almost go clean through! How he does it I do not know but the result is amazing. You do need to glue board to it as backing or light will shine through the wall. I was really impressed with how well it takes stains and colors as will be shown soon.

Jim D

Quote from: postalkarl on September 27, 2021, 05:29:11 PM
Hey Jim:

It's looking just great so far. Keep the pic coming.

Karl

Thanks Karl, next batch of pictures coming up.

Jim D

It has been a while since I updated progress, so time to catch up.

With the walls cut out I turned to painting and applying mortar to the brick. I started by spray painting all walls with Rustoleum Chalk Cottage White. Three applications of light spray were needed to get complete coverage used. My friend Jason Jenson used chalk paint as part of his method of getting great mortar lines in laser brick. He used an ivory white version but I think both colors work. The goal is to seal the wood and get the white paint in the mortar lines. I use Rustoleum or Krylon spray paint when using rattle cans. The extra cost from cheap WalMart type paint is more than worth it in the results. I got a tip from someone to keep the cans upside down when on shelf. Since I started doing this I have not had one nozzle clog and the can works great until completely empty. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-231021234047-509701839.jpeg)

For the aged American Brick look I cut a  natural sponge flat on one side. Using the damp sponge only on this flat side I gently applied a coat of Delta Barn Red making sure to only dab the sponge on the surface and minimize paint in the cracks. Next I did the same thing using Americana Heritage Brick Red. Then I added a very small amount of charcoal black to the Barn Red and sponged only some areas. Finally I mixed a little dark brown with the Barn Red and did more light dabbing in a random manner. I did not attempt to paint individual bricks but let the random patterns do the work of shading.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-231021234047-509721804.jpeg)

The white chalk paint did a good job of sealing the wood and filling the lines. The various shades of red and brown bricks really came out nice using the technique I saw Jason use. After the paint had completely dried for 24 hours I sprayed all the brick with Krylon Matt Clear Varnish. This will lock the paint in place for next steps. Again, when all was dry (24 hours later) I mixed up a thin wash consisting of sand grout, very thinned out modge podge (6 parts water 1 part mod podge and a drop of liquid soap) and alcohol. I used alcohol instead of water to complete the wash as it seems to get the grout into the mortar lines quickly and then evaporates fast. Only two coats were needed to get result I wanted. The mod podge mix is only to hold the grout in place while drying. 24 hours later I again sprayed the walls with the Matt Varnish to lock the grout in place.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-231021224647-50959784.jpeg)

This photo is jumping forward some but it shows the final results of the brick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-231021224145-509531528.jpeg)

Well the computer is about dead so we will finish up tomorrow.

That brick painting is some of the nicest I've ever seen!
--Opa George

I'll second that!

Jeff

Excellent brick work.

Nice progress Jim.....looking forward to seeing what you do with this part of the structure.  8)

Folks, thanks for the compliments. I do think the brick work came out pretty good. The process is a little time consuming but the result is worth it.

Next up is creating the parts needed for the internal structure and roof. I had to buy another 3D printer since I had not taken the time to actually learn the limitations of the Proton S.  By accident I broke the UV light system. I decided to buy the Elegoo Mars Pro to replace it.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-231021224145-50951920.jpeg)

I have found it superior to the Photon S in all ways, plus I took the time to read all of the manual!

I was going to ask how hard it was getting the girders off the sprue without breaking them but you didn't seem to have any issues. Very well done and I look forward to seeing more.

Well it seems about every month I have something worth reporting and this month is no different, but first I want to say thanks to Curt appreciate the compliment and question.  To answer your question on difficulty removing the truss from supports, that part proved easy. Here is a screenshot showing the 'sliced' design for the truss with the supports. The trick was to keep the supports long enough so that I could use sprue snips to get between the base and part to remove the truss without damage.  Other parts have proved very hard being delicate, complex or both.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004906-51242782.png)

So now to current update. The design of the building has evolved somewhat since I started it. Since my last update I decided to change the roof somewhat and add more than originally intended to the interior. As I go through the steps to date I am sure I will forget somethings so feel free to ask if there is a gap in the thread.

I found I needed to back up and re-think how I was going about designing and making the parts. Things were just not going right and all I was doing is creating a lot of waste, a lot.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004312-512252267.jpeg)

That is just some of the waste.

So I needed to become much more educated using Tinkercad to design the parts before I attempted to make them. While I thought I could just wing it I couldn't. By the time I decided I had read enough how to articles, watched enough videos and 'tinkered' with the parts I had designed all the parts needed to move forward but more importantly I had designed a copy of the building shell to correct dimensions so that i knew the parts would fit. Here are a couple screenshots of the design as it came about:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121003814-51211793.png)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121003949-512122234.png)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121003814-512101550.png)

As you can see this 'scratch' built version of the Skeeters Pump House has become very part intensive. The arch windows ended up consisting of 5 resin parts (1 frame, 3 window frames, 1 backplate) and four glass inserts. So there are 54 parts just for the arch windows. I tested using clear plastic windows cut using the Cricut machine to save some time but I was not pleased with how clear and undistorted they looked. I even dipped them in Revive prior to placing them in the window frame as the military modelers do to enhance the 'glass look' but while an interesting result, not as clear as I wanted. I ended up using Clover Glass and hand cut the glass to shape. A couple of the test windows of 'Revive Glass' I used and you might be able to see the difference.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121003814-51209525.jpeg)

I am by no means an expert now with Tinkercad but I think having put the needed time in to learn the basics that I have enough working knowledge to finish this project.

For the interior I came up with the idea to have a steel internal frame to hold the brick walls in place and allow for a second floor consisting of a small work area, catwalk and leading to what will be a covered bridge over the track to the main processing building. Limitations of the size the printer could handle along with the complexity of the design forced me to cut the frame into three parts. Also The hand railings had to be made separate and then glued in place. Finally, I used scale 2 x 6 boards to cover the underling supports and create the floor:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004739-512361985.jpeg)
One of the three 'iron' frames hanging on the print plate upside down and diagonally  with supports enclosing it. You have to wear latex gloves when handling the still soft parts and the raw resin. Apparently allergic reactions are a sure thing in time if not used.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004739-512371467.jpeg)
After cleaning the entire structure in 95 percent denatured alcohol for several minutes I used the sprue cutter and carefully cut the supports off the frame.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004139-512211622.jpeg)
The part is then placed in a UV dryer that rotates for 30 minutes. It can now be handled without gloves and is no longer soft and flexible. I placed it in the building to see if it fit, it did, FINALLY.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004312-512221471.jpeg)
Previously I had printed out the necessary guard rails. I used Krylon flat black as the primer and first coat. I then used my airbrush and sprayed the upper railings with Vallejo Flat Red. It took forever to cover the black, next time red first, black last, lesson learned.

To complete the section I again used the flat black to paint the frame. Here is photo showing two sections painted and test fitted:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004611-512342311.jpeg)

Next using Hobby Lobby Thick Super Glue I put pre-stained (Hunterline Medium Brown) scale 2 x 6 boards cut to length just covering the catwalk and second floor office area. Finally, the pre-painted railings were cut to length and super glued to the boards using a very fine needle applicator. Just a small drop is needed to hold the resin railings to the wood. (friend Todd Wiley put me on the Hobby Lobby brand, it works best of any I have used. However, once opened, after six months throw out the bottle. CA shelf life is not great).

The same process was done for the other two sections. When complete they were test placed in the building. So here is how they came out:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004611-51232687.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004442-512291090.jpeg)
The catwalk is not even in photo as the sections have not be glued in place. The boiler can be seen in photo as well for test fitting but a lot more work needs to be done on it.

Well computer battery about dead so time to call it a night. Here are a couple final photos for tonight showing the windows test fitted in place along with interior frame in place (but not glued lots more to do first).

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004739-51239710.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004739-51238564.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-261121004139-51219754.jpeg)

Amazing work with the printer Jim.....what's that name on the brick wall?  8)

Outstanding modeling Jim. Everything looks superb.

Jim,

Wow, what an incredible amount of work put in this build. Looks wonderful and lots of nice detail stuff as well.

Looks like a very fun build and upgraded kit bash.

Tom  ;D

Quote from: GPdemayo on November 26, 2021, 07:53:18 AM
Amazing work with the printer Jim.....what's that name on the brick wall?  8)

Why Mr. DeMayo that would be a faded sign for the Chemical Company; The great G. DeMayo Chemical and Rubber Company.  Wait until you learn what this great organization did in 1912 and what happened later. But that is for another time. Expect changes to what I have done, I just do not like the direction I have taken with this model, too busy.

Jim D

Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 26, 2021, 08:09:32 AM
Outstanding modeling Jim. Everything looks superb.

Curt thanks I appreciate it. Wish I thought it looked good. More I looked at the pictures the more I thought too busy, too caught up with the 3D printing, just ugg. I will get it looking right just need to step away for awhile.

Thanks Again

Jim D

Quote from: ACL1504 on November 26, 2021, 09:58:59 AM
Jim,

Wow, what an incredible amount of work put in this build. Looks wonderful and lots of nice detail stuff as well.

Looks like a very fun build and upgraded kit bash.

Tom  ;D

Thanks for following and the encouragement Tom;

Yep lots of work, lots of hours put into learning the 3D stuff and no longer fun. It is just not coming to together. Going to step away from it for awhile. This is just going the wrong way.

Thanks

Jim D

Jim, I spent a totally frustrating afternoon with SketchUp.  My project so far is about 5 hours of design and 20 hours of frustration trying to get SketchUp to position things where they're supposed to be  >:(


dave

Quote from: Jim Donovan on November 28, 2021, 07:50:53 PM

Quote from: GPdemayo on November 26, 2021, 07:53:18 AM
Amazing work with the printer Jim.....what's that name on the brick wall?  8)

Why Mr. DeMayo that would be a faded sign for the Chemical Company; The great G. DeMayo Chemical and Rubber Company.  Wait until you learn what this great organization did in 1912 and what happened later. But that is for another time. Expect changes to what I have done, I just do not like the direction I have taken with this model, too busy.

Jim D

Uh Oh.....sounds like some maniacal plot is afoot.  ;)

Not sure what you see in the windows, but the design of the window trim, as well as many other parts of the building, back at the turn of the century could get quite elaborate and with cheap labor the construction was possible. Looking forward to seeing what you do next. :)

I worked my way through the issues with the layout of the building and settled on a final design for the interior. Anyone originally looking into the interior with the roof off would pretty much just see the I beams and the catwalk. A building this size does not necessarily need steel framing for the interior so I eliminated what was not actually required. Doing so will let people see the finished boiler, electrical generator and other pump house equipment. There will still be an upper level leading to the covered Bridge to the Chemical Building. The change required a complete re-work of the upper level section and catwalk. If I had made this part of the facility out of wood I would have saved more than 40 hours of frustration. Still, I learned a lot and structures designed by CAD are always available for future projects so the needed time the second time file is used is close to zero.There is much to do to finish the interior but that will wait for the exterior and roof to be completed. Here is a glimpse of current progress for the interior.

New Design has a staircase to the second floor. The deck goes across entire with of building:

A second upper level second will be designed to attach to first part and will enable a small upper level office to run Pump House.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211038-51381437.jpeg)

The Industrial Boiler will have a blower, external smokestack system rather than a smokestack directly on the boiler. This will allow for the chimney stack to hopefully be made operational and produce smoke.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211038-513871854.jpeg)

As the roof is removable to see the trusses and the interior I need to follow the construction methods a roof of this type would have. The corrugated sheets will be 10 x 2 made from KC Workshop corrugated paper. I have had good luck with this material. It holds paint well and glues in place easily.

Here is a sheet laid lengthwise, the width of sheet is 10 HO scale feet.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211509-513921786.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211509-513931180.jpeg)
Using this straight cut cutting board I got from Micro-Mark a couple years ago I cut each strip to about 26 inches HO scale wide. The correct cut length is put onto the slide board and it is then locked in place. The sheet is fed in from the left until flush with slide board. Once flush you press down on the left had guide the paper went under. It is spring loaded to allow this. WIth the paper now locked in place use a new #2 knife blade to easily cut through the corrugated paper. When I felt the blade begin to catch on the paper instead of cleanly cutting through I threw the blade away and replaced it. The paper sheeting only looks real if no stray paper strands are seen so a sharp blade is a must.

To make the rafters I used 6 x 6 basswood, Since the rafters would not be out in the weather I wanted them to look somewhat aged but still natural. I had an old wash made by putting a steel wool sponge into a bottle of white vinegar. The resulting solution produces a rich hardwood look to basswood that I think looks natural.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211039-51389852.jpeg)

If you look carefully at the following photo you will see where I had put blocks across the top of each truss. These blocks measure to allow a 6 x 6 rafter to sit in the brackets making alignment very easy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-231021224416-509582427.jpeg)

I've already discussed how the roof truss system was designed and glued together.. The 6 x 6 basswood rafters however are the real feature that will hold everything together and provide the roof its rigidity,

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211038-513881561.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211039-513902160.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211509-513952242.png)
What you are looking at here is the 3D designed Upper Clerestory I made for the Steam Pump House. I am getting a little better with Tinkercad, this design took about 10 hours. It has 10 windows that were designed to tilt open. I ended up gluing them in place since the feature really could not be seen. The frame of the Clerestory is made up of trusses like the lower roof and solid walls. The corners of the structure were designed so the corner pieces of 1/8 brick by Monster Modeling could be glued into the designed slots.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211653-51396710.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211653-51397206.jpeg)
1/32 Monster Modeling brick first was cut and glued on the side walls, and the corner brick sections added. Finally, the entire structure was spray painted Chalk White Linen by Krylon. When dried the brick ends were covered in the same paint scheme as the rest of the brick. Care was taken so the mortar lines remained.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211653-513981944.jpeg)
Thie windows frames were spray painted flat black. When dry, pre-cut clear styrene plastic was dipped into Revive Floor Acrylic and then placed in the window opening. The ten windows were glued in place when dry. I did not use glass for these windows. The Revive Acrylic is both a glue for the clear styrene and imparts a wavy 'old-fashion' glass look I think will show off well here.

Finally, 2 x 6 rafters were placed on the truss structure and glued in place using Hobby Lobby Super Glue (glues fast and adheres well to the resin frame)

To complete the roof I initially spray painted all corrugated sheets with a flat gray primer. I then used an airbrush to create random rust streaks on each one. Starting at the bottom left of the roof frame I placed the corrugated pieces one by one across the roof frame, gluing each in place with small drops of super glue on the frame section that would be covered. With the first row done I measured the required length needed for the second row, which turned out to be about two inches. I cut the needed sheets to length and started the second row again at the left side but first cut a sheet lengthwise so I could have a starter sheet for that row 1/2 the width as normal. I glued this sheet on the far left with just a little overlapping the sheet below it. The next sheet was normal length and followed the same rules as done for the first row. The purpose of the starter sheet is to produce a 'stagger' with the row below. Care needed to be taken so that each sheet was about in the center of the sheet below it. When getting to the right side of the row a sheet would need its width adjusted so that the final sheet produced a flush end for the roof.However when it was all assembled I did not like the look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211654-513991162.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211654-514001176.jpeg)

I tested spray painting Matt Chalk Charcoal Black Krylon. I liked the result so after masking all that needed it I did two very light coats. I like the final look. Some weathering will be needed but that can wait.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211857-51401830.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211857-51402930.jpeg)

So we are caught up with progress. I have a final design I am happy with and the hard part finished so here are a couple of photos showing where the Pump House will go on the layout.

Thanks

Jim
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211857-514031865.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-121221211857-514041000.jpeg)

Looking great Jim , love the roof and the signage is superb.

Looks great Jim. The boiler assembly is outstanding. The black roof is good and the weathered one was also.

Hey Jim:

Looks just great so far. Can't wait for more.

Karl