I wanted to do another build for the challenge, but a quick one as we're running out of time. I like to build these Proto 2000 kits. They are a challenge to see if I can still do them physically. As some of us get older, vision and coordination tend to worsen. I've also picked up a mild intention tremor, only in the left hand for now. So I usually like to do one of these kits yearly to see how I'm stacking up. Really scientific! Car body, grab irons, teeny plastic parts, and instructions. Note on the package it says it builds in an hour. It took me four days. :o But there is a reason for that, as you'll see.
Jeff
This shows some of the tools. ACC glue for the metal grabs, plastic cement for everything else. Plastic cutters and sprue nippers, a sharp #11 blade, and files. I keep a set of mini files for plastic, one for wood, and one for metal. The ceramic palette is to hold small parts like the screws, so I hopefully don't lose them.
Jeff
One of these foam cradles is a must, so you don't damage the side of the car on the hard bench top. Plus it makes it so it doesn't move when you're trying to put those darn grab irons on. I use a drill just slightly larger than the holes on the model and only use it one or two turns, otherwise, the grabs have to go in exactly perpendicular to the body in both dimensions. I used a mosquito hemostat instead of tweezers, as it holds better. I think for the first time on any of these models, I didn't lose a grab iron. :) I think rubber coated ones would work even better, I'll need to find or make one.
Jeff
More light was needed to put a black grab iron in a black hole on a black car body. The foam cradle really helps on the ends. I used the tweezers to lift one end or the other of the grab if it wasn't quite even. I also used a piece of stripwood from below to try to make them all the same distance out from the body.
Jeff
One reason this took me four days, is that I could only stand to put a few grabs on at a time without taking a break. Just the eyestrain and tension of lining them up, the tremor really wasn't a factor. :) I did manage one whole side of eight at one sitting. Another reason for the long duration was I was going to weather the car, which meant weathering the trucks. Bright shiny black trucks don't look right on a working railroad. I also use Code 88 wheels mostly, so this would require painting the wheels and the trucks. I actually decided to use the trucks and wheels on this model as they have the funky spiral backs. As long as I was painting I got out a box of code 88 wheels, which could do 3 more cars. The airbrush was a disaster, I forgot to prime the wheels, but the paint came off easily and I just sprayed them with Rustoleum dark brown Camo paint. I did the trucks as well. The first pick shows shiny black trucks with shiny silver wheels. :o The second shows a brown truck and a truck I used some pastels applied with alcohol to weather.
Jeff
One of the cars was an Atlas hopper. When I tried to put the new wheels in, they didn't fit. The Atlas wheels have very short nubs on the axle ends. So I had to paint use and paint the stock wheels as well. I got out another car and sprayed it's trucks so I could use the extra already painted wheels.
Jeff
My camera started acting wonky about this time. The door where the batteries go won't fully close, something is broken on it. It's 10 years old, and I doubt there's a camera repair shop within 200 miles of here. It still works, but I have to hold the door with one hand and shoot with the other. So there aren't any interim steps here. I glued on all the plastic parts, only breaking and losing a very tiny brake thingy. I then weathered the car with Pan pastels and sealed it with fixative. I did the NP hopper as well as a test bed. The other 3 cars didn't get weathered at this time. There was a marking on the side of the hopper "NEW 4-59" which is too new for my time frame, so I painted it out with some black paint. Added a couple of chalk marks and, voila!
Jeff
The other cars got placed on the pike as well. The trucks look much better than the shiny black ones that we started with. Thanks for watching!
Jeff
What's a "mosquito hemostat"? Just a really small one, or is there a special property (like smooth jaws)?
Thanks dave
Dave, it's just smaller than a normal hemostat.
Jeff
Very cool. Just the painted/weathered trucks on the other cars makes a huge difference. Those Proto 2000 kits can try one's patience. ;)
I have some trucks and wheel sets I started to paint/weather oh....about six months ago...sitting on the workbench so four days ain't too bad. ::)
I like the weathering, the cars look like regular dirty cars that have seen a bit of service, but are maintained properly. Great job Jeff, you have more patience than I do to tackle those itty bitty grab irons. 8)
Jeff,
I think you did a fantastic job on the cars. I really like how you did the hopper bays, very rusty looking.
Tom ;D
Thanks, Bob. I've never let a project sit for months. ::)
Jeff
Thanks, Greg. Like I noted, they're more of a physical proficiency test, at least I passed, this time.
Jeff
Thank you, Tom. I've not weathered many freight cars. Some day I'll try the airbrush and oils as well, but the Pan Pastels work fairly well and are easy to do. But very messy on the hands and counter top.
Jeff
Hey Jeff:
good to see some freight car builds. They look just great.
Karl