All my past builds have been, more or less, have been for the railroad, in order of appearance and placement. The mid-point of the railroad is Clinton Mo. The Frisco depot is located off a dead end spur, along with Clearfield Cheese Company processing plant.
I have access to old Sanborn Maps which told me dimensions and construction, but not much more. The most current one was from 1918. From it I know height and construction.
Then, someone ran across Vintage Aerials. And eureka, it had a photo of the plant. And it had a barrel roof with a clerestory to boot. Even though the photo was from 1988. it contained a wealth of knowledge. On a regular basis, I conducted a internet search for Clearfield Cheese Clinton Missouri and never got much back. Early on, I got a sales ad for a patch, which will be used for signage, but mainly bupkis. Then, from another search, resulted in an undated photo for the Clinton Daily Democrat (local paper) showing the back side. Someone may be able to get an about date fro the vehicles.
So, now armed with enough information, I can start the scratch building of this industry. Granted it has to be shortened and pares way down, but I can capture the flavor. First up, the production building.
I don't do CAD, so it was old fashion ruler and pencil. I found that a 10" roof radius look decent for the barrel roof. I have a Monster Model Model Works Clerestory roof kit, so that will fix the length. I'll use Tichy masonry windows and doors. The middle of last month I ordered the windows and doors from a shop in Illlinois and they haven't even mailed them yet. So, I did a order direct with Tichy this morning and they already have been sent out.
I'm using Monster Model Works concrete block sheet. I was nervous in cutting the 1/8" thick material, but the trammel that I'm using has a cutting point and it easily marked the radii so that the final cut could be made with a new X-Acto blade. I felt that I needed to have some internal bulkheads, so I made these from 3/16" foam core board. I replaced the cutting blade with the pencil, and used an X-Acto saw to cut the curve. It was surprisingly quick.
Bob - Very impressive sir! Both the research, the planning and the execution. I'm sure I'll learn a lot from this one. Thank you for sharing! :D
Nice job on the research. Interesting looking structure. I'd guess the picture is from early 40s, the car on the right edge looks the newest in the group. Probably Mr. Clearfield's. :)
Jeff
Looks like it will tun out to be a nice addition to the layout.....I'll be looking in. :) Interesting about the depot being on a dead in spur.....the station I took the Frisco from in Columbia was also a dead end spur.
Awesome beginnings here, Bob. Looking forward to where this is going.
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 02, 2021, 08:59:28 AM
Looks like it will tun out to be a nice addition to the layout.....I'll be looking in. :) Interesting about the depot being on a dead in spur.....the station I took the Frisco from in Columbia was also a dead end spur.
Clinton Missouri, at one time was known as the chick capitol of the world. Yeah, a bit over the top. But, the Frisco converted a bunch of head-end cars to haul baby chickens out of Clinton and across the country. So, at one time there were E8's actually doing some serious switching. They had to pull into the the depot, drop off passengers, back out to the main, get clearance from the Katy to cross their main, and then head into the yard. While there it would drop off whatever cars it had, get spun around on the turntable, hook back up to the cars, get clearance to cross the Katy, back down the spur, set out the passenger car(s), go get the waitng chick cars from the house track, hook them up to the passenger cars, go back to the house track to drop off the empty chick cars, back onto the depot track, hook up to the consist and head back north.
Bob, Jeff, Greg, and Craig, I hope this will work out. It has been ages since I done anything like this. I have a new appreciation for the kit makers who produce kits from actual structures.
Bob
Great research work, and a very cool project. I will be following along.
Bob,
Will follow along...
Tommy
Hello Bob, I'll be really interested in how the barrel roof comes out. I don't recall another build with a roof like that. Looking forward to your techniques. Jeff
Hey Bob.....didn't know about Clinton and chicks. Missouri is a very interesting place and has had a wide variety of industry in the past, beyond the agricultural industry.
When I was a kid, my grandpa took me for drives around the Salem area and showed me a lot of neat stuff that existed over 100 years ago, like caverns, brick works, lumber mills and iron mines. Great adventures for a small boy. 8)
Looks like you have it well in hand!
Jerry
Hey Old Guy:
I shall be following along.
Karl
Hey,
I'm in the bleachers as well on this one.
Tom ;D
Glad to have the followers. So today, the windows I ordered the first part of March arrived. Four packs in a box the size of a half loaf of bread. Wow.
In the mean time, I needed to work on the clerestory. Technically, it is a monitor roof, but it doesn't say that on the package. Went together fairly easily and then had a laser board (?) roof deck. Also included are some small bits for roof vents. Though these look a bit anemic and flat. So I rummaged around in my wood bit scrap bin and found some usable bits. When glued on and the kit supplied top added, it seems to work.
I decided to use some other material for the back side that won't be seen directly. I added some transfer tape to 3/16" foam core and laminated a piece of JTT plastic concrete block material. Although it shows HO scale they say 1/100 scale. It'll work for brick I suppose somewhere else. But good enough for my use. So I gave it a spritz of gray primer.
What I like about Monster Model Works block and brick sheets are his corners. Just pay attention to the sheet orientation and the B at the bottom of the corner and the joint wont be that noticeable.
I ordered several different sizes of windows to see what would work/look the best besides some different dock doors. The larger windows just looked a bit big and I compared them to some slightly smaller windows in hand and compared the two. Son of a . . . . . They are the same freakin' window, Welp, Grant Line (the black units) measure the overall exterior dimension while the Tichy measures the window itself or interior dimensions. Thus a Grandt 42x72 is the same window as a Tichy 38x68.
Now I could convert a cased wood window to a masonry unit, but I'll just choose from what I got. I may hate myself later, but I need to move along. To determine what looks the best, I needed to cut out for the recessed lower entry. Just make sure that it got sized to receive the corner pieces. The 8/8 seem to be a bit big, so I'll go with the 6/6. The pencil lines on the left are where the enclosed exterior steps will go. That and there will be a canopy across the front.
Now, let's see how long my Army Painter white spray paint take to get here.
The block sheet is a full 1/8" thick basswood(?), so one has to be a bit of careful to get openings correct. Once laid out, I use light pencil lines to layout the openings. I then make little circles in the corners as a locate point and drill them out close to the edges as I dare. Read - where ever the drill bit decides to make a hole with in the lines. Then I take an X0Acto hole saw and connect the dots. I then choose whichever side the saw got the closest to as my vertical base line. These windows span horizontal joint line to joint line, so that really helps. Then, carefully crave and file one side first and ensure that it is as straight as possible, then move to the other side and do the same until the width is just slightly tight on the window frame. Then do the same on the top and bottoms, but as these are with the grain, they are much easier. When they get installed, I'll need to find a spacer for to center the depth in the wall.
The left side pencil line is for the exterior staircase. This will be made out of clapboard siding.
Looking good, Bob.
Nice, neat window fitting!
Cheers, Mark.
Good start on this one.
I will follow.
Eric
Been slow going. Messing things up will slow progress.
I really wanted to use some Rail Scale Models doors on this one. I did a bit of testing and chose one. This was a test for the door going upstairs. Fit better than I thought. NO winder as this part was way off. Matter of fact the entire staircase was wrong. So It had to be rebuilt. I forgot to take a picture of it as it was drying after a A&I bath.
I also built a foundation out of 0.06" plastic strips. But it maybe off as well.
Seems at this point I needed just to get the walls together. First, I needed to a some 4x8 window lintels. With that done, it was a matter of rigging some Lego corners to keep three of the walls square. There will be two inner wall braces made of 3/16" foam core. I left one out for now as I still need to add the first floor entry inset.
The left wall is a bit wonky as the front wall is longer than the back wall. The back wall arch results in the left wall being taller in back than in the front.
Once this all dries, I can spray them with gray primer and once that dries, I 'll paint them white. The doors and window are red, so they'll have to be added after the walls are done.
continuing to plod along.
I had, out of habit, spray painted some construction paper black for the tar paper roof. Completely forgetting that it all gets painted white. The monitor roof has clear acrylic sides and ends so the side panels that contain the windows have to be painted in two steps. First I did white and when dried, taped it all except for the window mullions. These and the frames get a blood red. I really didn't pay that much attention to the window strips from the kit. Come to find out, they are not adhesive backed. So everything has to be glued together. I started with end frames and once got that figured out as to placement options, did the side window panels. I did the first and last frames, let them sit for a bit and then used a ruler to ensure all the rest would line up.
I must say that I really like the How Tichy includes laser cut acetate for the windows. What a time save. They also include some pre-cut light brown material for shades. But, they are only half height, so have a shade more than half-way down is problematic.
I started the first coat of white paint. Just used the typical tube acrylic paint applied with a sponge. I did do a second coat and it looks a lot better.
Note to self - Take more photos.
The brick looks amazing Bob! Really enjoying this build.
-Steven
Hey Bob:
Coming along very nicely.
Karl
Hello Bob, what a nice looking building, I'm looking forward to the roof going on and what techniques you use to do it. Jeff
Quote from: nycjeff on April 20, 2021, 05:16:45 PM
Hello Bob, what a nice looking building, I'm looking forward to the roof going on and what techniques you use to do it. Jeff
You and me both. ;D
I got the windows installed. I found that I needed to make a depth gauge for the windows in an attempt to get them at an even depth. It was just a matter of cutting up some popsicle sticks.
Then I added some roof cards for the employee staircase. This bit will have rolled roofing. After fitting, I added lines for the roofing material.
I had purchased ten 1/16" basswood sheets several weeks back and I'll be damned if I can find the other nine. I could have used cardboard for the main roof, using some intermediate bracing, but I hate cardboard for large spans or expanses. So, my plan is to use the basswood. Now, this product doesn't want to bend, so I'll cut it into strips. In a quick test fit and I made a major error. I had inset the monitor roof, just a bit. In all honesty, I wanted the block wall to go up to the top of the monitor roof, but my block sheets aren't that tall. Perhaps in hindsight, I could have added a bunch of additional rows, but that ship has sailed some time ago. So, the inset made sense at the time, but I neglected to take into account the thickness of the roof deck sheets. Rookie mistake. So I had to add another row anyway to get that monitor piece raised about 8 scale inches. Things probably could have gone better if I actually made up a cross section instead of working off a sketch. Sigh.
Welp, change of plans. It seems that I'll have to use cardboard for the roof deck after all. I managed to get a couple of pieces cut from a large sheet that I had on hand. I marked it for the rolled roofing and pre-coiled it. I will need to add some purlins to help support the roof deck and keep the bow. The first two border the monitor piece and I'll add two or three more on each side.
Hey Bob:
Walls and structure look just great. Can't wait for more.
Karl
Hello Bob, I'm starting to see what your plans are for the roof. Good luck, I'm sure that you will do your usual great job. Jeff
I wound up spacing 1/8" square material 4 scale feet apart for the purlins. I used some Styrogoo to hold them to the foam core. Seemed to work decently.
So here is what the roof should look like when installed.
I'll need to play with the construction paper for the rolled roofing. The prototype had painted the roofing white. Since I am running low, or possibly out of black, I'll nee to do some testing on other colors to see what they look like when painted white.
Hey Bob:
Structure is looking just great. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
I've gotten to the point where i need to develop the various signs needed. I was good with my old Office stuff, but had to switch to Office 10 (or whatever) and I am struggling. In the mean time i worked a bit on the front canopy posts. The prototype has a canopy that included the lower part of the exterior staircase enclosure. I thought it would look a bit better to have the main canopy be above a bit and over the lower staircase portion. All for visual interest. But that didn't look as good in person as it did in my head. So, I had to remove some of the installed rolled roofing off to allow for rolled roofing over the entire canopy. My little bit of foundation also forms the front concrete walkway. I cut the posts from some bras tubing which I painted black. Now how to put it all together. I drilled out the holes for the posts, but added a piece of wood underneath the plastic and even with the front of it. Then it was a matter of adding some tape to the bottom to cover the holes. I added some medium ACC stuck in the posts and then aligned the post tops with the holes in the wood. Made holding the pieces in parallel and straight up and down.
Hello Bob, I really like how the roof is coming together. We don't see many of that type of roof here on the forum and you are doing a great job explaining how you are doing it. Jeff
Well Jeff, I can understand why. These bowstring truss roofs where somewhat common here in the Midwest back in the day.
I finally managed to get a corporate logo that I liked and installed. I fiddled with an "Office" sign for the main door, but it doesn't really show.
The cardboard that I used for the roof deck holds it shape really well, I curved it a week or so ago and it held up. Got it glued down. I like the transfer tape and got lucky that two wide rows and on middle width row fir perfectly. I added rolled roofing and glued the joints down. Hopefully it'll all show up once the glue has dried and the roof is sprayed painted white. It'll all make sense once I remember to take photos.
Hello Bob, great job on the roof so far, can't wait to see the finished product. Jeff
So, I got the roof done. Not 100% to my liking, but it will work. I hope. My grand plan was to replicate the tar-joints with Elmers Cement. The form about a foot above the surface, spray paint onto the roof, letting some of the black paper to show through. But the cement came out a pure white giving the roof somewhat of a zebra look. I should have tried tinting the glue with some black paint. Oh well. Live and learn.
I have been slowly working on the warehouse/dock building. The main part will have a raised "cement" floor with three dock doors. Two will be for rail and one for trucks. And yes, I hate wasting time for glue to dry, so I am building a couple of IMEX mobile homes that I managed to snag online. That "concrete" foundation was the second iteration. I plan on trying Foscale's technique to show impressions of old concrete form boards using masking tape and thick paint.
There will be another attached building on the far end. Cutting openings in the Monster Modelworks brick sheets is a royal pain. It takes a lot of effort to get windows opening the correct size and look have way decent.
Bob that is coming along very nicely. Great job on that roof!
Jerry
Hey Bob,
Personally, I think your model looks terrific. We are always the hardest on our own work. I have been silently following along, I like seeing modelers tackle big projects like this. Joe
The foundation walls are poured concrete and I wanted to have the "squeeze outs" showing, but wasn't quite sure how to do it. Then I came across a Doug Foscale video where he did just that. Whereas he uses a strip of tape and moved it, I thought I needed to have the wall covered in masking in masking tape and then remove each bit as I came to it. So I started to cut strips to apply to the wall and thought, that is stupid. Just add the tape to the wall and cut it there. And if one strip of tape is good, then more should be better, So I settled on three layers. I used a piece of scale 10" inch wide stripwood to cut the horizontal lines and then cut the verticals every ten scale feet.
I just used some gray craft paint to brush it on along a tape strip. Worked my way down the wall. I'll admit I got a bit messy, hoping that some of the slop wouldn't show, but it did. But over, it kinda worked. I need to work on the technique so as to minimize the slop beyond the tape edge.
As it stands now, the wall was sprayed with gray primer.
It seems that I haven't kept this thread up to date.
With the production bldg done, except for some piping, and the same for the shipping/receiving building mostly completed, I needed to get a base to house all the building sections. My material of choice is 1/2"foam core board. From the prototype photos, there appears to be some amount of courtyard and a structure to get product/materials to and from each building. It'll be some sort of transition building made up of B&B siding. I'd love to have used some brick patterned felt paper, but, I have only one sheet, from way back when and it's the wrong color for here.
With there being a courtyard, I need some sort of drainage system to get rid of all that model rain that my fall. I tried not to go through all this, but I just couldn't let it go. I outlined the building placement to determine open space size. It also formed the outline for the middle structure foundation. I cut out where the drains will go. Initially, I was going to add just one catchment, but that wasn't going to work out. These are made from plastic with a lip for the "pavement" made out of 1/8" foam board. Each catchment is covered in brass screen for a grate. These were protected by tape during painting.
I used scrap 1/8" foam for corner supports. Once all pieces were, installed, I gave the area hit of gray primer and weathered the area. What I didn't show was the addition of static grass and fine foam in some of the cracks.
There was a steam line(?) that ran between the tow main buildings, so that took some time to fabricobble that bit.
The shipping/receiving building will get several vent stacks and make-up air vents, but as of now, all buildings have been glued on to the base.
Bob,
Looking very nice !!!
Tommy
Hey Bob:
Looks just great.
Karl
Thanks Karl and Tommy. I calling it "done fer now". It needs some weathering from top to bottom besides track and scenery. But that'll wait until it gets planted'
Time to move on.
This is a very interesting structure, you've done a great job with it.
dave
Well done Bob.....looks great. 8)
Hey Bob:
I'll have to agree with Dave. Beautiful job.
Karl
Quote from: deemery on June 09, 2021, 10:52:57 AM
This is a very interesting structure, you've done a great job with it.
dave
Thank you Dave.