Hey All,
I have a stupid question to ask. What is the best way to clean, and prime metal details. No matter if i tried dish soap, or alcohol, and than did not touch the casting, sprayed with 2 light coats primer, and dried for several days, I still sometimes on edges get the metal coming through when handling to paint.
Any thoughts, or better ways would be greatly appreciated....
Thanks
Loren....
Best way to combat this is simply avoid handling the casting at all. Use a painting stick, toothpick or even a piece of cardboard to hold your castings while you paint.
After it's all done, mist the castings with a flat varnish like Testor's Dullcote and then you can hand-ball the castings from there.
Quote from: Keep it Rusty on April 28, 2021, 08:27:13 PM
Best way to combat this is simply avoid handling the casting at all. Use a painting stick, toothpick or even a piece of cardboard to hold your castings while you paint.
After it's all done, mist the castings with a flat varnish like Testor's Dullcote and then you can hand-ball the castings from there.
Craig,
I have done that in the past for figures, guess I will have to resort to that here, and drill a little hole for some .012 wire.....
thanks....
Just suggestion ...
Clean metal with Acetone, prime with urethane primer or enamel or oil based primer. They stick to metal much better.
I drill holes and mount all my metal castings on toothpicks. For the real small castings I use a popsicle stick and glue the castings to the stick. I try not to handle them. Acrylic paints are just not as durable as the stuff that smells bad. Our models are to look at not to touch. A don't touch policy really helps when you like to use a lot of chalks, too.
Hey All:
I just take em out of the box and paint em. I never seem to have a problem
Karl
Quote from: fsmcollector67 on April 28, 2021, 08:04:04 PM
Hey All,
I have a stupid question to ask. What is the best way to clean, and prime metal details. No matter if i tried dish soap, or alcohol, and than did not touch the casting, sprayed with 2 light coats primer, and dried for several days, I still sometimes on edges get the metal coming through when handling to paint.
Any thoughts, or better ways would be greatly appreciated....
Thanks
Loren....
Have that same issue here since switching over to the Khaki Camouflage Spray Paint by Rust-Oleum as the primer for all the metal castings . Still clean the castings the same way as years ago with rubbing Alcohol when we were using an airbrush applying Earth Floquil paint thinned with Dio-Sol back in the day. Yes just see the edges of the bare metal castings too now...
Tommy
Good information....I'm still using Floquil which is pretty bullet proof once it cures for a few days. Alas, the Floquil won't last forever. I was planning on switching to Model Masters Enamels at some point but Testors discontinued that line as well. :(
I don't wash my castings before I prime them. I use either Rustoleum or Krylon Khaki for anything wood based and I usually let them dry overnight. After they dry I stick them to a tongue depressor with double sided carpet tape so I don't have to handle them and it's easier to paint.
The only parts I usually have a problem with paint getting rubbed off is cast metal stone walls due to the fact they need to be handled quite a bit while I'm working on the structure.
Also..I blacken all the parts that represent metal before I paint them so I really don't worry about paint rubbing off. In fact I usually want that effect especially drums or tanks. Prior to blackening I do wash the castings in rubbing alcohol and that helps the blackening to cover the whole casting.
I like to soak metal castings in a solution of dishwasher soap, water and vinegar. The idea is that the vinegar etches them a bit for better adhesion. Then I use my airbrush to prime them. I've had the best luck lately with the Badger Stynelrenz primers: http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Stynylrez.asp (http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Stynylrez.asp) The only issue I have with these is the GawdAwful name that I can never spell correctly!!
Floquil primer is still the best, if you have the primer, the solvent AND a good outside-venting spray booth.
dave
Thanks to everyone who replied. Will have to try a little of each, to see what works best for me.....
Quote from: SteveCuster on April 29, 2021, 10:59:08 AM
I don't wash my castings before I prime them. I use either Rustoleum or Krylon Khaki for anything wood based and I usually let them dry overnight. After they dry I stick them to a tongue depressor with double sided carpet tape so I don't have to handle them and it's easier to paint.
The only parts I usually have a problem with paint getting rubbed off is cast metal stone walls due to the fact they need to be handled quite a bit while I'm working on the structure.
Also..I blacken all the parts that represent metal before I paint them so I really don't worry about paint rubbing off. In fact I usually want that effect especially drums or tanks. Prior to blackening I do wash the castings in rubbing alcohol and that helps the blackening to cover the whole casting.
Ditto on all of that...especially the blackening of metal parts that represent metal details. I find that it is frequently the case that an external air duct or pipe or garbage can looks pretty good with some blackening and a little buffing with a Q-tip without much other treatment. Except some rust chalk, of course. Always gotta have rust.