My next build for the north end of Tahope will be FOS's Pub Crawl. To my knowledge nobody has built this kit. I know Longhorncaddy's wife, Laura, built it for an NMRA contest and took 115 points. She won second place for her efforts. Laura never did a build thread.
I'm not sure when the kit was first released but there is a 2011 add for the 2011 Model railroader Expo in Peabody, Ma. in the box. I guess I've had it some 10+ years.
For a smaller kit there sure are lots of goodies in the box. I'm starting the thread now but won't actually be able to start the build for at least a few more days.
These first two photos were "borrowed" from FOS's site. Pub Crawl has four places for the railroad workers of the A&S RR to get some refreshing drinks after work. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921181357.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921181158.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180731.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180744.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180754.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180803.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180815.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180829.jpeg)
Tom
It looks like a fun build and you have the right spot for it. I will be following along.
Hey Tom:
I'll be looking forward to what you do with this one.
Karl
I'll be watching Tom..... :)
Looks like a great kit. Of course I'll be following.
I'm there. Looks like a fun kit.
--Opa George
I'm here looking in on your latest adventure as well. ;)
Tom,
I just got this kit last week; so I be following along alos
This looks like a really nice kit, it's got a great looking exterior.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 20, 2021, 10:04:30 PM
Tom
It looks like a fun build and you have the right spot for it. I will be following along.
John,
Thanks for following along on this one. It will be fun.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on September 20, 2021, 10:28:59 PM
Hey Tom:
I'll be looking forward to what you do with this one.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, not sure if any changes will be made. Glad to have you following.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 21, 2021, 07:35:00 AM
I'll be watching Tom..... :)
Greg,
Grab the rope and hang on. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on September 21, 2021, 08:00:50 AM
Looks like a great kit. Of course I'll be following.
Curt,
I appreciate you taking your time to follow along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on September 21, 2021, 12:37:46 PM
I'm there. Looks like a fun kit.
--Opa George
George,
I'm happy to be on this one now. Grumpy's Cafe build was as seemingly never ending build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on September 22, 2021, 08:00:24 AM
I'm here looking in on your latest adventure as well. ;)
Thanks Butty Bob,
I was going to pass this one on to you but wanted to build it myself. :-X
Tom ;D
Quote from: John B on September 22, 2021, 09:10:56 AM
Tom,
I just got this kit last week; so I be following along alos
John,
Happy to have you along with this one. I've had it for years and have been wanting to get going on it and now here we are!
Tom ;D
Quote from: Lynnb on September 29, 2021, 11:01:38 AM
This looks like a really nice kit, it's got a great looking exterior.
Lynn,
The FOS Pub Crawl is another winner kit from Doug. I love the different looks of each business.
Fun times ahead.
Tom ;D
I forgot to show the nice color photo Doug included in the kit.
It's a nice reference photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200921180719.jpeg)
After getting all the wall parts flat on the bench, I added nail holes. No photo of this as I assume ya'll know what a nail holes on a model looks like. ???
I have more updates but have over stayed my "spend a few hours in the train shed" allotted time.
Will continued tomorrow.
Hey Tom:
You are quite welcome.
Karl
The main structure, four businesses, has a total of 12 wall sections. Most are obvious but a few are interior wall pieces. I numbered each wall section to avoid any wall gluing errors.
This next photo shows the obvious wall pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170810.jpeg)
This next photo shows the rest of the wall sections. Walls 5 and 7 are interchangeable and are also interior walls with the gables above the two side roofs.
Walls 10A, 10b and 3 are specific walls that can't be interchanged and must be used as per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170820.jpeg)
More in a few.
All wall sections cut by a laser have a very slight edge angle. Some refer to this as a "kerf". The edges also have a small wood knob where the walls were attached to the carrier sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170830.jpeg)
I slightly and carefully sand the small knobs off and square the edges as best as possible. This is critical if you want your corner trim to fit tight and flush against the wall edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170840.jpeg)
More in a few.
We mostly have high humidity here in Central Florida. So, I tend to review the manufacturer bracing suggestions and decide where I think extra bracing would be beneficial. I did add more bracing to this one.
The next photo shows the kit bracing locations. These were braced as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170849.jpeg)
The next photo shows where I added the extra bracing, marked in red pencil. The vertical lines show the kits bracing suggestions. I doubled the bracing on walls 10a, 10b and 3. On wall 10c I added a short brace to the center.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170859.jpeg)
Continued in a few. Diet Pepsi time.
Just a little side note here. Four of the walls came on a carrier sheet of bass wood. This piece was left over.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170909.jpeg)
There is enough here to use on another scratch build or if necessary a need arises to replace a smaller piece.
I keep a box of extra wall pieces for this purpose.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290921170919.jpeg)
Continued -
After all the bracing was completed and dry, I stained all wall sections with Hunterline Driftwood A&I stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300921122549.jpeg)
Here is something that really frustrates me. The photo below shows five of the wall sections. The two sections on the top and the bottom one are all basswood but the density is different than the two in the middle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300921122600.jpeg)
The stain is the same and applied the same with the same soft bristle brush. However, as you can see the darker wall sections didn't absorb the A&I as did the others.
Paint will solve 95% of this but it still gets me.
Done for today.
Making great progress Tom.
Following along Tom, can't wait to see your progress. Mark
Thanks for the detailed views and comments as you build. I'm enjoying following along.
A couple comments on staining. (1) different pieces of wood, or even different parts of the same tree, will take stain differently. You can usually darken by adding more stain to the lighter sections. (2) I like spray shellac to seal before applying stain. That helps get a more even coat and reduces warping. (3) I also learned the hard way that it's best to stain the full 'slabs' of wood, before adding bracing or cutting out openings, and let those slabs dry thoroughly under weights (flat surface bricks, $.69 each at Home Depot, make great weights. Put wax paper between the wood and brick, though.)
dave
Quote from: craftsmankits on September 30, 2021, 08:46:55 PM
Following along Tom, can't wait to see your progress. Mark
Mark,
Thank you as well. I'm enjoying this build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: vinceg on September 30, 2021, 11:06:23 PM
Thanks for the detailed views and comments as you build. I'm enjoying following along.
Vince,
You are very welcome and I'm happy to have you along on this one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on October 01, 2021, 09:23:00 AM
A couple comments on staining. (1) different pieces of wood, or even different parts of the same tree, will take stain differently. You can usually darken by adding more stain to the lighter sections. (2) I like spray shellac to seal before applying stain. That helps get a more even coat and reduces warping. (3) I also learned the hard way that it's best to stain the full 'slabs' of wood, before adding bracing or cutting out openings, and let those slabs dry thoroughly under weights (flat surface bricks, $.69 each at Home Depot, make great weights. Put wax paper between the wood and brick, though.)
dave
Dave,
Thanks for the your staining comments.
I'm not looking to darken the wood but rather have it much lighter. I didn't want the darker pieces. Hopefully, I can make the adjustment to even it out after painting.
I've learned the hard way to brace and then stain. I've stained first in the past and then braced. Even though I've added weights until dry, I didn't feel it was better. I guess it's just personal preference here.
Tom ;D
I've tried it both ways. What's happened to me several times is that the bleeping bracing warped along with the wood panel. Maybe that means my bracing wasn't sturdy enough. But on my recent Laird Stone flat project, I wanted to keep the structure relatively shallow, so 1/4" bracing was right out. (The first attempt, bracing then staining, warped badly. I ended up tossing that piece out, but also because I mis-cut the doors on it.) On the reworked piece, "stain then brace" worked much better.
dave
Looking good, Tom.
I use 'titan buff' by Golden to lighten my darker wood. I also stain first and then brace. My reason is because I also like to put my 6x6 corner trim on before I brace. I put the trim on with the back of the wall flat on the bench, and this leaves the trim slightly proud of the weatherboards, as it should be. Like you say - everyone's different.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: deemery on October 01, 2021, 11:20:41 AM
I've tried it both ways. What's happened to me several times is that the bleeping bracing warped along with the wood panel. Maybe that means my bracing wasn't sturdy enough. But on my recent Laird Stone flat project, I wanted to keep the structure relatively shallow, so 1/4" bracing was right out. (The first attempt, bracing then staining, warped badly. I ended up tossing that piece out, but also because I mis-cut the doors on it.) On the reworked piece, "stain then brace" worked much better.
dave
Dave,
On smaller structures I'll always use scale 10X10s (1/4") and 12X12s for larger structures. Never had a bleed into the bracing though.
In your bracing of 1/4", I wonder if to much A&I was applied causing the warp?
Also, I was wondering if the sprayed shellac doesn't allow the A&I to stain the wood. Or are you staining the shellac?
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on October 01, 2021, 02:32:17 PM
Looking good, Tom.
I use 'titan buff' by Golden to lighten my darker wood. I also stain first and then brace. My reason is because I also like to put my 6x6 corner trim on before I brace. I put the trim on with the back of the wall flat on the bench, and this leaves the trim slightly proud of the weatherboards, as it should be. Like you say - everyone's different.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I will add corner trim prior to bracing if the corner will be the same color as the walls. If not, corner trim comes after bracing. I've never thought of adding the corner trim to extend or "slightly proud" of the siding. I'll keep that in mind.
More ways to skin the cat I guess. I've braced first so long it just seems natural at this point.
I appreciate your in put.
Tom ;D
QuoteI've never thought of adding the corner trim to extend or "slightly proud" of the siding. I'll keep that in mind.
Modern day practice (in my experience) is to nail 4"x3/4" timber over the top of the weatherboards. Scribers are then cut out of 2"x1/2" or similar and nailed to the edge of the 4"x3/4". In older times (this is what I found when doing renovations on or 1894 cottage villa) they used 4"x2"s and 6"x2"s. The weatherboards were cut short of the corners by a few inches. The 4"x2" timber would then be tacked in position on the corner studs and a pencil run down the weatherboards, marking their position on the side of the 4"x2". A saw cut would be ripped down the back of the 4"x2" and then a combination of a hand saw and a chisel would be used to remove the unwanted material. The first piece would be nailed flush with the corner and then the 6"x2" would be used on the second face, giving an even corner. Typically, the scribed part of the corner trim would cover the end nails on the weatherboards, which is why I never add nail holes at corners or around doors and windows. As you can deduce this method leaves the corner and opening trim proud of the weatherboards by about 3/4"s. 6"x2"s and 8"x2" were sometimes used. This would give the difference in our modeling of using 6"x6" or 8"x8" corner trim.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on October 02, 2021, 03:32:29 PM
QuoteI've never thought of adding the corner trim to extend or "slightly proud" of the siding. I'll keep that in mind.
Modern day practice (in my experience) is to nail 4"x3/4" timber over the top of the weatherboards. Scribers are then cut out of 2"x1/2" or similar and nailed to the edge of the 4"x3/4". In older times (this is what I found when doing renovations on or 1894 cottage villa) they used 4"x2"s and 6"x2"s. The weatherboards were cut short of the corners by a few inches. The 4"x2" timber would then be tacked in position on the corner studs and a pencil run down the weatherboards, marking their position on the side of the 4"x2". A saw cut would be ripped down the back of the 4"x2" and then a combination of a hand saw and a chisel would be used to remove the unwanted material. The first piece would be nailed flush with the corner and then the 6"x2" would be used on the second face, giving an even corner. Typically, the scribed part of the corner trim would cover the end nails on the weatherboards, which is why I never add nail holes at corners or around doors and windows. As you can deduce this method leaves the corner and opening trim proud of the weatherboards by about 3/4"s. 6"x2"s and 8"x2" were sometimes used. This would give the difference in our modeling of using 6"x6" or 8"x8" corner trim.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,I agree with all the above. Much older wood sided structures in Orlando have the 1(3/4") X 4 (3/4") corner trim at 90 degree angles, one over lapping the other by 3/4".In our HO world we have commonly use the HO scale 4X4s to represent the over lapping corner trim. I'll give the 6X6 corner trim a try one build at a later date.In the future, I'll not put nail holes next to the corner trim.Great conversation on this part of the hobby.Tom ;D
I took all the plastic doors and windows and washed them in warm soapy water to remove any lasting mold release. I set them aside to dry on a paper towel.
I left them on the plastic sprues for painting later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113018.jpeg)
I've decided to paint this structure with Floquil Driftwood. I found an old bottle of Driftwood that was still usable and combined it with another one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113101.jpeg)
More in a few.
I've had this bottle of floquil Driftwood for some 35+ years. Back then the Floquil Flo-Stains didn't sell very well and this one was on sale for .99.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113329.jpeg)
I used a 1/2" soft bristle brush to paint the walls with Driftwood. I dipped the tip of the brush into the paint and then into a bottle of clean thinner. This helped thin the Driftwood and gave me a Driftwood wash.
As I mentioned earlier, this also gave me the coverage I wanted to lighten the darker stained wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113357.jpeg)
More in a few.
After the Driftwood wash dried, i noticed it settled into the nail holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113410.jpeg)
I carefully went over the nail holes with the ponce wheel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113442.jpeg)
Continued -
Not shown here but I also stained and painted the 4X4 corner trim. When all was dry, I edge glued them to the walls per Doug's suggestion.
However, I did deviate on two of the walls with respect to the trim.
In the photo below you can see he suggested gluing the corner trim to the top of walls 5 and 7, bottom circle. This was guess work on how long they needed to be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113456.jpeg)
An easier solution was to cut and glue this trim to the center of the front main wall, shown in the upper red circle and marked in green. I test fit the walls and this worked perfectly.
I'll try to post more later this evening.
I finally have a little time to update the thread.
I decided to build the two bay window subassemblies next. The first bay window I built was the larger of the two. Window parts 13 and 14 are shown below with part 13 on top in the photo. Part 14 is to be glued to the top of part 13. However, DO NOT GLUE them together yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113521.jpeg)
Next I cut parts 21 and 23 from the carrier sheet. Parts 22 are to be glued to the inside of the bay window, part 13.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113532.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Per Doug's suggestion, I did find it necessary to lightly score the horizontal separation lines on each part of the windows. Do this carefully as you don't want to cut them apart. Lightly scoring them will help in getting a clean sharp bend for the bay window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113546.jpeg)
I then glued part framed window part to the base of parts 21 as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113600.jpeg)
Continued -
Both parts 21 were glued to the top and bottom of the framed window section.
NOTE: Parts 21 were glued flush inside of the window.
When dry, part 14 was then glued to the top of part 13.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113612.jpeg)
I used weights to hold the window side in place while the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113648.jpeg)
Continued -
I then carefully sanded the top and bottom of the bay window. This also removed the small tabs from the carrier sheet.
Part 23 was then glued to the top of the bay window assembly. NOTE: Be sure this piece is centered over the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113708.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113720.jpeg)
Continued -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113736.jpeg)
In the photo below, you can see how it looks and is supposed to fit into the front wall opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113749.jpeg)
Continued -
There is a little "light leak" between the wall and bay window. If you plan to light the interior as I do, this can be fixed, from the inside, with a little glue and then painted flat black.
If you don't light the interior, this won't be an issue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041021113801.jpeg)
Looking Good Tom! Glad to see you found some more time to return to posting on he forum.
Brucer
;D ;D 8)
Great job Tom.
Bay window looks very good, Tom. Good step-by-step tips as always.
--Opa George
Hey Tom:
Looks just great. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Looking good, Tom.
You could also add some 6x6" trim to the sides of the opening and glue the bay window to that. This may prove a better solution.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on October 11, 2021, 12:24:31 PM
Looking Good Tom! Glad to see you found some more time to return to posting on he forum.
Brucer
;D ;D 8)
Cousin Brucie,
Thanks, yes, I finally was able to get my legs off the bed and walk around some. My time is the train shed is limited but I'm trying to make the most of it.
Time for a Diet Pepsi.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 11, 2021, 12:44:00 PM
Great job Tom.
Curt,
thank you my friend. It is good to be back even on a limited schedule.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on October 11, 2021, 01:01:33 PM
Bay window looks very good, Tom. Good step-by-step tips as always.
--Opa George
George,
Thank you as well. The bay window was a fun little sub assembly. Happy to hear you like the step-by-step.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on October 11, 2021, 02:17:28 PM
Hey Tom:
Looks just great. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks buddy, more pics to follow.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on October 11, 2021, 03:27:46 PM
Looking good, Tom.
You could also add some 6x6" trim to the sides of the opening and glue the bay window to that. This may prove a better solution.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you. I like the addition of the trim on the sides. As it turned out, it is a better solution. More on this later in this u[date.
Tom ;D
I've mentioned this in the past but I always make two copies of the kit signs. This way, I'll have some back up and I've even had the opportunity to share with others the extra signs they needed during a build.
The original kit signs are on top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192104.jpeg)
The black and white sign goes on the right end wall section. This sign is to represent a painted on sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192116.jpeg)
I used a small piece of very fine sandpaper (220) to roughen up the sign. I lightly sanded from top to bottom, turned the sign upside down and sanded from the top down. Meaning I sanded the bottom of the sign down towards the top.
More in a few.
I also lightly sanded the back of the sign. I finger painted on some white glue and applied the sign to the wall section.
When pressing the sign down, It moved on me and I couldn't move it back. So, yes, the sign was ruined.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192128.jpeg)
After realizing the misfortune, I quickly removed the sign and used a damp sponge to remove the glue from the wall.
I went to my back up sheet of signs and was successful in my second attempt to glue the sign on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192203.jpeg)
Additional nail holes were added in line with the others. NOT SHOWN HERE.
Continued after grabbing a nice cold one, Diet Pepsi of course.
I wanted to follow up on a suggestion Mark made concerning the light leak around the larger bay window.
He suggested the use of 6x6s to the sides of the opening. As the window is recessed in the wall at the top and bottom, the 6x6s were to big. I used 4x4s instead.
Prior to this addition, I had spray painted the bay window with Polly Scale DTI Cherry Red.
I cut and glued the 4x4s between the top and bottom of the bay window supports and next to the sides of the bay windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192437.jpeg)
When dry, I touched up the 4x4s with the Cherry Red paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192520.jpeg)
Continued -
A perfect solution to an imperfect fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192448.jpeg)
Thank you Mark for the suggestion, it worked perfectly.
Tomorrow I'll cover the build of the smaller of the two bay windows.
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 12, 2021, 07:41:10 PM
I also lightly sanded the back of the sign. I finger painted on some white glue and applied the sign to the wall section.
When pressing the sign down, It moved on me and I couldn't move it back. So, yes, the sign was ruined.
After realizing the misfortune, I quickly removed the sign and used a damp sponge to remove the glue from the wall.
I went to my back up sheet of signs and was successful in my second attempt to glue the sign on the wall.
Nice save! And your tip about always making backup signs is well taken. I'll have to start doing that.
I, too, use white glue for my signs, never having gotten good with the double-side tape technique. To make them more pliable/workable, after thinning, I dip mine in dirty paint brush rinse water, blot off excess, then rub on the white glue with my fingers. The thinned white glue allows a few more seconds of positioning time.
Admittedly, this is tricky with big signs.
Nice job!
--Opa George
Great idea for the signs Tom.....good progress. 8)
Tom said: "...Meaning I sanded the bottom of the sign down towards the top."
That hurt my brain to think about first thing in the morning.
Quote from: Opa George on October 13, 2021, 05:29:12 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 12, 2021, 07:41:10 PM
I also lightly sanded the back of the sign. I finger painted on some white glue and applied the sign to the wall section.
When pressing the sign down, It moved on me and I couldn't move it back. So, yes, the sign was ruined.
After realizing the misfortune, I quickly removed the sign and used a damp sponge to remove the glue from the wall.
I went to my back up sheet of signs and was successful in my second attempt to glue the sign on the wall.
Nice save! And your tip about always making backup signs is well taken. I'll have to start doing that.
I, too, use white glue for my signs, never having gotten good with the double-side tape technique. To make them more pliable/workable, after thinning, I dip mine in dirty paint brush rinse water, blot off excess, then rub on the white glue with my fingers. The thinned white glue allows a few more seconds of positioning time.
Admittedly, this is tricky with big signs.
Nice job!
--Opa George
George,Thank you. I've never used double sided or transfer tape to add signs to basswood walls. I do prefer the white glue method. More difficult in some way but the result is better in my opinion. Each to his own I guess.Some of the saved or unused signs can be used as billboard signs also. I used the small sign from Gusano Loco and made a billboard sign to advertise the restaurant. The sign was to be placed on the upper portion of the right side wall. (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131021100159.jpeg)(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131021100145.jpeg)Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 13, 2021, 08:40:27 AM
Great idea for the signs Tom.....good progress. 8)
Greg,
Thank you for stopping by and the supportive encouragement.
Tom ;D
Quote from: vinceg on October 13, 2021, 09:03:56 AM
Tom said: "...Meaning I sanded the bottom of the sign down towards the top."
That hurt my brain to think about first thing in the morning.
Vince,
Thanks for stopping by. It hurt my brain just trying to word it correctly. ???
Tom ;D
The second smaller bay window was a little more "tricksie" to do. There is only one part of the actual window. There is a lower two part portion which I'll cover in a few.
This smaller bay window is very delicate so use caution and carefully build this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192215.jpeg)
Again, it is wise to lightly score over the laser scored vertical lines on each side of the center window. I didn't use much pressure to score these lines but I did go over them several times, lightly.
Also, to area used to bend the window is very small in width. After scoring the vertical lines. I attempted to bend the window. It was still a little to stiff to bend so I once again scored the vertical lines. I then turned the window over and placed a thin metal ruler over the lines.
I then used a #17 Xacto blade and slipped it under the window carefully bending it up, using the metal ruler as a stop.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192228.jpeg)
I folded the other side up in the same manner.
More in a few.
Parts #22 are to be used to glue to the top and bottom of this smaller window. However, after removing them from the sheet, I found they were just a little to short. If I used these pieces, the bay window would not be 90 degrees on the corners.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192240.jpeg)
I needed to make two new pieces of part 22. I used the original parts as a template and made two new ones the correct length. I can't tell you how long they need to be as I used the interior sides of the window as my measuring stick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192251.jpeg)
More in a few.
Parts 16 and 17 make up the lower portion of the window. Part 16 is to be glued over part 17 as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192302.jpeg)
NOTE: Part 16 must be carefully glued and centered over part 17 as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192313.jpeg)
Continued -
The reason it must be centered it so it fits properly into the window opening. The over hang of part 16 fits over the front wall as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192328.jpeg)
Also, notice in the upper portion of the photo my ponce wheel drifted and the holes are now misaligned. Hopefully when the sign is added this won't show.
I then made a test fit of the bay window and the lower portion. It fit perfectly. I then added a small amount of glue to the top of the lower portion and pressed the upper portion against the lower portion of the window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192351.jpeg)
Time for a Diet Pepsi, back in a few.
Here is how the two bay windows fit into the front wall of the Pub Crawl. This photo was taken prior to me painting the two windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192402.jpeg)
I mentioned earlier that the large window was spray painted with Polly Scale DTI Cherry Red. The smaller window was painted with Floquil Dark Green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121021192414.jpeg)
Finished for now.
Beautiful modeling Tom.
Looking good, you do have a nice supply of signs and although sometimes a pain to get them into the scene and on buildings , well worth the challenge.
Hey Tom:
The walls are looking just great so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Quote from: Lynnb on October 13, 2021, 12:53:03 PM
Looking good, you do have a nice supply of signs and although sometimes a pain to get them into the scene and on buildings , well worth the challenge.
Lynn,Thank you. A supply of signs is always nice to have. Not all signs can be used universally but still nice to have as backups.Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on October 13, 2021, 04:23:06 PM
Hey Tom:
The walls are looking just great so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you buddy, I'm way behind on the updates.
Tom ;D
I'm getting further and further behind on my updates. Feels like one step forward and two steps back.
I next built the two doors that fir on the right end of the pub crawl. These are parts 11 and 12 (two of each). Part 12 is glued over part 11.
There is no mention of these parts in the instructions. Not sure Doug knows this or not. I'll say that my kit was purchased at least 12 years ago and Doug may now have it corrected in the newer versions.
I glued part 12 over part 11 on both doors. In the photo below you can see they don't fit together, yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141021150750.jpeg)
I didn't sand the edges until they were glued together. Gluing them together makes them stronger and not as fragile when sanding. I used an Emory board and lightly sanded the kerfs off the edges.
Now they fit together perfectly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141021150803.jpeg)
More in a few.
Notice in the photo below, the two doors don't fit into the opening as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141021150815.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141021150828.jpeg)
Continued -
For the two doors to fit, I'll need to add a header and two side studs.
I painted a piece of HO scale 6X6 with Floquil ATSF Mineral Brown. When dry, I cut the header and glued this in place followed by two side studs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141021150843.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141021150854.jpeg)
Now the two doors fit. Again, this step wasn't listed in the instructions.
Continued -
I'll need to paint the rear of the doors to prevent light from bleeding through.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191021191358.jpeg)
Done for tonight.
Another good save Tom..... 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 20, 2021, 08:24:53 AM
Another good save Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks very much.
Tom ;D
That red looks really bright! It's been interesting seeing how you worked through the bay window fit.
dave
Quote from: deemery on October 20, 2021, 11:51:50 AM
That red looks really bright! It's been interesting seeing how you worked through the bay window fit.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for stopping by. The red does look bright in the photo but in reality it isn't. Also, not shown as yet is the weathering on the bay windows.
Solving the bay window was fun and it was the perfect solution thanks to Mark D.
Tom ;D
Four of the signs on the Pub Crawl are supposed to be metal or old porcelain signs. I'll weather them are old porcelain signs.
I mentioned earlier that I drifted on the nail holes on the right end of the building. This bar is Leo's Watering Hole. Leo has a big ego so I made the sign to fit Leo's ego and cover the drifted nail holes.
I copied it to Word, enlarged it to fit the space and then printed it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201021132615.jpeg)
Continued -
I glued the four signs to a piece of folder paper and let dry. When dry, the signs were cut out and 2X2 framing was glued to the outer edges of the signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201021132624.jpeg)
I used Floquil ATSF Mineral Brown for Leo's to match the door and Floquil Weathered Black for the other three.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201021132636.jpeg)
The signs were set aside for weathering later.
Hey Tom:
you are quit welcome. Can't wait to see what you do with the signs.
Karl
Tom...
Don't forget a Pepsi sign too...
Tommy
Hey Tom! Let me know when that "Beached Whale Ale House" opens up would you? While I am sure that they don't serve Diet Pepsi there, I am sure I can still find something else to drink in the place.
P.S. The build looks great as usual.
8) 8) :o
Quote from: postalkarl on October 20, 2021, 04:07:52 PM
Hey Tom:
you are quit welcome. Can't wait to see what you do with the signs.
Karl
Karl,
I'm going to treat them as metal signs with rust and maybe a bullet hole or two.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on October 24, 2021, 11:28:15 AM
Tom...
Don't forget a Pepsi sign too...
Tommy
Tommy,
I do have a few Diet Pepsi signs to add! 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on October 24, 2021, 12:11:17 PM
Hey Tom! Let me know when that "Beached Whale Ale House" opens up would you? While I am sure that they don't serve Diet Pepsi there, I am sure I can still find something else to drink in the place.
P.S. The build looks great as usual.
8) 8) :o
Bober,
No problem my friend. The sign should read "Beached Whale Diet Pepsi House." All Tahope drinking establishments sell Diet Pepsi.
Thanks for the kind compliment.
Tom ;D
Late afternoon all! As usual I'm about 40+ photos behind on this build thread.
The truth is that with the upcoming heart surgery, I'm finding it very hard to stay focused and interested in all things related to railroad modeling.
I hope to try and update the build tomorrow afternoon.
I'll feel much better once I get a date for the procedure so I can then get my mind set on recovery and rehab. And, of course back to building the empire!
Tom ;D
Tom,
I think the most difficult thing for me to encounter is uncertainty. It seems that regardless of how negative or damaging something we face might be, once it is known we can accept it as part of life and make a plan to move forward. Not knowing...like a black hole that eats at us mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. Rest assured you are constantly in my thoughts and prayers. I'm sure that the same is true of members of this group as well. Hang in there my friend, better days are ahead!
Looking forward to the update on this build.
Wishing you all the best, and a speedy recovery, then back to the empire! Mark
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 27, 2021, 08:18:32 PM
Tom,
I think the most difficult thing for me to encounter is uncertainty. It seems that regardless of how negative or damaging something we face might be, once it is known we can accept it as part of life and make a plan to move forward. Not knowing...like a black hole that eats at us mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. Rest assured you are constantly in my thoughts and prayers. I'm sure that the same is true of members of this group as well. Hang in there my friend, better days are ahead!
Looking forward to the update on this build.
Could not have said it any better than Jerry did here.
All the best Tom and in our thoughts here as well for a speedy and full recovery !!
--Paul
I seem to remember stories about the Coke people coming into Tahope to strong arm the businesses into selling their products. Back in the day, Coke wasn't ever accused of being choir boys with some of the tactics they used to eliminate the competition.
Maybe Bill can refresh out memories about the goings on during those times..... ;)
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 27, 2021, 08:18:32 PM
Tom,
I think the most difficult thing for me to encounter is uncertainty. It seems that regardless of how negative or damaging something we face might be, once it is known we can accept it as part of life and make a plan to move forward. Not knowing...like a black hole that eats at us mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. Rest assured you are constantly in my thoughts and prayers. I'm sure that the same is true of members of this group as well. Hang in there my friend, better days are ahead!
Looking forward to the update on this build.
Jerry,
Well said for sure. I'll have a better idea sometime next week. I appreciate the thoughts and prayers and the support.
Tom ;D
Quote from: craftsmankits on October 27, 2021, 11:13:06 PM
Wishing you all the best, and a speedy recovery, then back to the empire! Mark
Mark,
Thank you very much for the support.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PaulS on October 28, 2021, 07:42:50 AM
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 27, 2021, 08:18:32 PM
Tom,
I think the most difficult thing for me to encounter is uncertainty. It seems that regardless of how negative or damaging something we face might be, once it is known we can accept it as part of life and make a plan to move forward. Not knowing...like a black hole that eats at us mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. Rest assured you are constantly in my thoughts and prayers. I'm sure that the same is true of members of this group as well. Hang in there my friend, better days are ahead!
Looking forward to the update on this build.
Could not have said it any better than Jerry did here.
All the best Tom and in our thoughts here as well for a speedy and full recovery !!
--Paul
Paul,
Thank you as well for the posting and support.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 28, 2021, 07:47:12 AM
I seem to remember stories about the Coke people coming into Tahope to strong arm the businesses into selling their products. Back in the day, Coke wasn't ever accused of being choir boys with some of the tactics they used to eliminate the competition.
Maybe Bill can refresh out memories about the goings on during those times..... ;)
Greg,Not only in Tahope but I do remember the Coke wars here in Central Florida. It got very nasty between Pepsi and Coke. I believe Coke had some folks prosecuted due to their behavior.Tom ;D
I started gluing the walls together. The main structure has many different walls and each one needs to be perfectly square to the front wall.
While the glue was still wet, I used a metal square and weights to hold them in place while drying.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174727.jpeg)
I then added the rear wall to hold the two sides walls in place while the glue dried. This rear wall section isn't glued at this point in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174715.jpeg)
Continued -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174738.jpeg)
I plan to light the lower floor of this one pub. I decided to use cardboard to hold the LED and separate the two floors. The second floor won't be lit.
I cut a piece of cardboard to the width of the interior sides of the side walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174751.jpeg)
Continued -
So much to look at - bay windows, complicated roof lines. Nice job on a really interesting structure/complex.
I placed the structure over the cardboard and marked the location of the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174803.jpeg)
I used a flat Xacto blade to punch out the penciled areas
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174817.jpeg)
Continued -
Quote from: vinceg on October 28, 2021, 04:44:44 PM
So much to look at - bay windows, complicated roof lines. Nice job on a really interesting structure/complex.
Vince,
There is a lot going on with the Pub Crawl. Thank you for the nice words of encouragement.
Tom ;D
I added some 10x10 bracing under the cardboard to reduce sagging.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174830.jpeg)
Here is how it fits into the building and between the walls/bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271021174840.jpeg)
More after getting an ice cold Diet Pepsi.
I glued the next wall in place. This is the wall for the smaller pub on the right.
I thought it was very narrow even for a small pub. It only measure 8 feet in width. My layout room is 12 feet wide so a bar with an interior width of 8 feet isn't practical at all.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102216.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102229.jpeg)
More in a few.
I used the flat Xacto blade and removed the wall. The flat blade slips under the wall brace and cuts the glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102240.jpeg)
I then removed the next wall as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102251.jpeg)
Continued -
I sanded the edges of each wall to remove the dried glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102301.jpeg)
I made the decision to make this smaller bar a bit larger. That meant I needed to cut the front wall off at the bar on the left and right of the center smaller one.
I first removed the upper corner trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102321.jpeg)
Continued -
I marked the back interior wall where I would makes the cuts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102336.jpeg)
The front wall was laid flat on the cutting pad. I then used a metal ruler and new #11 blade to cut the wall.
This next photo shows the front wall of the smaller bar was removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102357.jpeg)
I'll add more to this tomorrow.
Glad to see you back at the bench Tom !!
As always great thread of Tom's Tips and Techniques....
Looking forward to seeing what you do with your Expanded Pub Crawl. Making a nice kit design even better.
All the best,
--Paul
Tom,
Great catch on the overly narrow width of the one bar. I'll be interested to see how you widened it; blank wall, wider doorway, window(s), etc. Your threads always end with me picking up a tip or two. Thanks for posting.
Looking good with the walls going up. That is always the most exciting part of a structure kit for me.
I did not realize this kit was as deep as it is. Thought it was much more shallow.
--Opa George
You are a lot braver than I am. I agree that an 8 foot wide bar is iffy, but . . . .
In any case, keep up the good work.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 28, 2021, 07:20:37 PM
Tom,
Great catch on the overly narrow width of the one bar. I'll be interested to see how you widened it; blank wall, wider doorway, window(s), etc. Your threads always end with me picking up a tip or two. Thanks for posting.
Of course on the "prototype for everything" category, there is Pittsburgh's Hendel Building, at 5'2" wide and three stories high. It once had a lunch counter on the ground floor!
Hendel Bldg. Sure does look like it's a Model RR kit, doesn't it??
(https://www.gpsmycity.com/img/gd_sight/59771.jpg)
Tom very nice. Love those precise corners!
Jerry
Quote from: deemery on October 29, 2021, 10:37:19 AM
Hendel Bldg. Sure does look like it's a Model RR kit, doesn't it??
Yeah, and Preiser has really upped their game with respect to figures.
Very nice Tom. I look forward to seeing your progress.
Quote from: PaulS on October 28, 2021, 05:40:13 PM
Glad to see you back at the bench Tom !!
As always great thread of Tom's Tips and Techniques....
Looking forward to seeing what you do with your Expanded Pub Crawl. Making a nice kit design even better.
All the best,
--Paul
Paul,
Yes, it seems lately my building comes in bunches like bananas. :P Thank you for the kind compliment also, I appreciate the support.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 28, 2021, 07:20:37 PM
Tom,
Great catch on the overly narrow width of the one bar. I'll be interested to see how you widened it; blank wall, wider doorway, window(s), etc. Your threads always end with me picking up a tip or two. Thanks for posting.
Jerry,
Thanks and stay tuned for the widening. I'm happy you get a few tips here and there from my posts. Sharing ideas is what I love about this forum.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on October 29, 2021, 09:36:49 AM
Looking good with the walls going up. That is always the most exciting part of a structure kit for me.
I did not realize this kit was as deep as it is. Thought it was much more shallow.
--Opa George
George,
Thank you and I agree in that it is always fun to get the walls up. The kit is a scale 26 feet in length, front to back.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on October 29, 2021, 10:02:05 AM
You are a lot braver than I am. I agree that an 8 foot wide bar is iffy, but . . . .
In any case, keep up the good work.
Bob,
Cutting walls to change a kit isn't really that scary. I know we as modelers deal with selective compression but this was to narrow for me to go with.
I'll do my best to keep the good work going.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on October 29, 2021, 10:02:49 AM
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 28, 2021, 07:20:37 PM
Tom,
Great catch on the overly narrow width of the one bar. I'll be interested to see how you widened it; blank wall, wider doorway, window(s), etc. Your threads always end with me picking up a tip or two. Thanks for posting.
Of course on the "prototype for everything" category, there is Pittsburgh's Hendel Building, at 5'2" wide and three stories high. It once had a lunch counter on the ground floor!
George,
There are many examples for a "prototype for everything" but I've never seen a bar/pub this narrow. Of course, I don't drink so I have no idea anyway. 8) 5'2" in depth is amazing.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on October 29, 2021, 10:37:19 AM
Hendel Bldg. Sure does look like it's a Model RR kit, doesn't it??
Dave,
Yes, it does and I love the facade look.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Jerry on October 29, 2021, 11:53:06 AM
Tom very nice. Love those precise corners!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the compliment and support on this build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: vinceg on October 29, 2021, 12:52:59 PM
Quote from: deemery on October 29, 2021, 10:37:19 AM
Hendel Bldg. Sure does look like it's a Model RR kit, doesn't it??
Yeah, and Preiser has really upped their game with respect to figures.
Vince,
Good one, I was thinking the same thing. Preiser figures with umbrellas, who would have thought. I love the scale signal lights also.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 29, 2021, 03:25:31 PM
Very nice Tom. I look forward to seeing your progress.
Curt,
Thanks my friend. This is turning out to be a much more fun build than I expected.
Tom ;D
I widened the width to 12.5 feet. To give you a 1:1 idea of how it would be, I've added a photo of my layout room. The room is 11.5 feet in width.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180321141504.jpeg)
Plenty of room for a bar, stools, small two chair tables and behind the bar room.
Fast forward here and you can see the difference in the old and new walls. I did move the doors and window more towards the center.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102626.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is a look at the front with the new width addition.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102640.jpeg)
As mentioned, the 8' was just to small for me. The photo below shows the rear wall width in front of the new front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102657.jpeg)
More on this new wall addition tomorrow afternoon.
Continued -
The left end bar is now a stand alone structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102709.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103747.jpeg)
Continued -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103759.jpeg)
The roof panel shown below is the kit roof as it came. Notice the laser cuts for the rafter tails are cut into the top and not the bottom. Just for those inquiring minds, the panel could have been turned over. However, the laser cut down the middle allows you to bend the roof panels down.
If I reversed the roof panel, it wouldn't bend down and would have to be cut in half for the rafter tail locations to be on the bottom of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102722.jpeg)
Continued -
Here is how I solved the problem.
I used a piece of spare cardboard and marked the rafter tail locations on it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102739.jpeg)
I then flipped the roof panel over and marked the rafter tail locations on the bottom side as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281021102750.jpeg)
Hopefully another update tomorrow afternoon.
I like all the changes.....looking forward to seeing it in Tahope. 8)
The bar for biker fight scene in A Bronx Tale couldn't have been much wider. Good call.
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 30, 2021, 09:18:22 AM
I like all the changes.....looking forward to seeing it in Tahope. 8)
Greg,
Thanks, I've decided to go with the separation of the buildings. It will be in the northern point of Tahope just south of the turntable roundhouse area.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on October 30, 2021, 09:26:19 AM
The bar for biker fight scene in A Bronx Tale couldn't have been much wider. Good call.
Bob,
I remember that movie and the fight scene. I agree, it wasn't much wider.
Tom ;D
I'm finally back at the work bench with a decent attitude. And, yes, I'm still behind on the thread.
I like the idea of The Rusty Keg being a stand alone structure. This way i can create a little scene between this one and the rest of the Pub Crawl.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103759.jpeg)
The following photo shows how it would look with the wider front wall and one structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103906.jpeg)
More in a few.
I cut a new side wall for the Irish Pub and added two small windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103811.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103826.jpeg)
Continued -
Here is how the two structures will look next to each other. Plenty of room between for a bar fight or shooting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103845.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291021103855.jpeg)
Note: I opted to not add windows to the right side of the Rusty Keg. More on this later.
Continued -
I wanted to add a concrete base to this building. I used 1/16" X 4" plain basswood for the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121161920.jpeg)
Since the sheet is 24" long, to long to fit the work bench, I used the upper deck of the layout to mark the outline.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121161929.jpeg)
Continued after getting an ice cold Diet Pepsi.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121161939.jpeg)
Once the main outline was done, I cut the outlined section off and moved back to the work bench. I then cut the base to fit the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121161950.jpeg)
Continued -
I then drew in the sidewalk expansion joints using a metal ruler and a sharpened #2 pencil. I then traced the pencil lines with a new #11 Xacto blade using very light pressure. Once the initial lines were drawn, I used the back of the #11 blade to define the joints.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121162003.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121162015.jpeg)
Continued -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121162026.jpeg)
The base was painted with Floquil Concrete and set aside to dry. When dry, I used the back of the #11 blade to remove the paint from the joints.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121162038.jpeg)
Finished for today. I'll add more tomorrow.
Great looking modeling Tom.
Hey Tom:
Progress shots look great. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Enjoying watching your progress as always, Tom.
Its nice to see you changing things up a bit. Will be good to see how it turns out. A bar fight sounds interesting. When you were deciding on widening the bar I did figures in my head and came up with 11 feet. Pretty close to what you went with. Of course the bar could have been at the back of the establishment making the original narrow width plausible.
Cheers, Mark.
Great idea to separate the pub Tom.....the alley will be a terrific area for a gritty scene. Enjoyed the update. 8)
Quote from: postalkarl on November 15, 2021, 06:47:33 PM
Hey Tom:
Progress shots look great. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you and I'm a long way from the finish line so stay tuned.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on November 16, 2021, 12:00:50 AM
Enjoying watching your progress as always, Tom.
Its nice to see you changing things up a bit. Will be good to see how it turns out. A bar fight sounds interesting. When you were deciding on widening the bar I did figures in my head and came up with 11 feet. Pretty close to what you went with. Of course the bar could have been at the back of the establishment making the original narrow width plausible.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I do like to change the look of most structures I build. Gives it the individual look for the A&S RR. I'll need to find some figures for fighting. If not, I'll have a shooting.
I have been in one restaurant in Chattanooga, TN. that had a narrow entrance that opened to a much larger area in the rear. So, yep, that is indeed plausible.
Tom ;D
The Rusty Keg has a corrugated panel roof.
I cut the corrugated strips in half horizontally and then used a new #11 blade to cut them in random widths.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171514.jpeg)
I then used 1" wide 3M transfer tape for securing the panels to the roof deck. The transfer tape was cut longer that the roof decking and will be trimmed later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171524.jpeg)
More in a few.
The tape overlapped the ridge of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171538.jpeg)
Instead of folding the tape over the ridge, I laid the roof on the workbench as shown below and then rolled the roof over onto the transfer tape. By doing this, I got a good flat seal on the tape on the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171552.jpeg)
Continued -
I cut the transfer tape as shown to get a good seal at the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171604.jpeg)
I then added the tape to the bottom of the other side.
Continued -
I cut the excess tape off using the edge of the roof as a guide. By laying the roof down with the bottom up, made it much easier to cut the excess using the edge as the guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171629.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171657.jpeg)
Continued -
After pulling the first piece of tape (paper off the tape) off, I began to add the corrugated panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171710.jpeg)
All the panels were added to the roof decking. I overlapped the panels slightly on the edges to they would cover the 1X6 exterior rafters.
I need to make a ridge cap and then paint the panels prior to any weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161121171727.jpeg)
Done for now.
That is excellent coloring on the corrugated roofing.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 16, 2021, 06:35:43 PM
That is excellent coloring on the corrugated roofing.
Curt,No paint has been applied as yet. This is just how the corrugated strips came in the kit.Tom ;D
I needed to add a ridge cap to the roof. I used a thick mailing envelop and cut a small strip off one side.
I used a small paint brush to apply glue to the inside fold and then placed it on the ridge of the roof. When dry, I trimmed the ends.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172141.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172152.jpeg)
More in a few.
Reading Bob mentioned on one of his threads where he used a corrugated paint color for the roof. I found a bottle of this at Hobby Lobby.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172238.jpeg)
I used a soft bristle brush and painted it on the corrugated panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172304.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172322.jpeg)
Roof weathering comes next.
Hey Tom:
the roof looks great. I'm gonna go and get some of that paint.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks buddy. This is a great color for the HO corrugated stuff.
Tom ;D
Hey Tom:
You are quite welcome. Thanks again for the paint info.
Karl
Good job on the metal roofing Tom..... 8)
Hi Tom,
That paint looks very interesting. I've tried FolkArt's metallic paints, but found them to be rather 'glittery', if that makes any sense. This appears to avoid that appearance. Looking forward to how this build shakes out. Thanks for the pictures and updates.
Mark
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 24, 2021, 08:02:41 AM
Good job on the metal roofing Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks very much.
Tom ;D
Quote from: craftsmankits on November 24, 2021, 01:03:14 PM
Hi Tom,
That paint looks very interesting. I've tried FolkArt's metallic paints, but found them to be rather 'glittery', if that makes any sense. This appears to avoid that appearance. Looking forward to how this build shakes out. Thanks for the pictures and updates.
Mark
Mark,This is the first time I've tried this product, I definitely like it. I doesn't look metallic when applied and certainly no glitter effect.Thanks for checking in and following along.Tom ;D
I looked in my sign file and thought I'd use this one. Since the Rusty Keg is located across from the roundhouse area, I thought it appropriate.
The sign reflects that women can work a man's job and also if you don't think so then, "Up Yours"! 8) However, I think she is just showing some muscle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121162050.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151121162101.jpeg)
More in a few.
I decided to not use rolled roofing for the small side roof. I found a small section of Northeastern shingle material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121173741.jpeg)
I simply glued the roof panel to the underside of the shingles and when dry, cut them to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164721.jpeg)
Continued -
When the galvanized tin color paint dried, I first applied a wash of AK Light Rust Deposit, AK4111, and let dry for a day. I then applied a coat of Medium Rust, AK4112 and finally a coat of Dark rust, AK4113.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172338.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231121172350.jpeg)
Continued -
When the roof was dry, I cut and added the exterior rafters to the roof ends and added rafter tails between the two gabled ends.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121174659.jpeg)
I'm going to really fast forward here and declare the build 98% finished.
The windows and doors were installed, the signage was added, another coat of Hunterline A&I of Driftwood and some random brushing of Hunterline Sepia Brown A&I.
I also noticed I have some spots/growth in the inside of the camera lens. I paid $100.00 for the camera, Sony Cyber Shot, some 10 years ago so I got my monies worth. Time for a new camera. You can see the spots in the next several photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164734.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164745.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164755.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164809.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164821.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164831.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164841.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164852.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164902.jpeg)
The Rusty Keg is going to get a light dusting of coal dust from the steam locos. This will finish the structure. It is also lit but I haven't drilled the holes for the wires as yet.
Here is the location of the structure in relation to the roundhouse.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164926.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241121164916.jpeg)
Very nice build Tom. The roof is outstanding.
That proximity to the roundhouse will make things easy for the call boy :-)
dave
Tom,
I really like the rusty roof!
Nice work on the roof Tom, like this kit, wish I had picked one up. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Tom,
The finish you completed on the roof came out great.
Think that the Anita Metallic base color you started with is a new one ?... can't seem to find it at the craft stores here.
Like the 3 different colors of rust that make it look used.
This thread is making me thirsty.
Tommy
Great weathering Tom , what a nice simple building , love it.
Outstanding..... 8)
Very well done.
Wonderful job so far Tom. I really like the idea of splitting this one up like you're doing. There was just something about that contiguous block of structures that just didn't look right to me when this kit came out. The roof looks great. ;)
Fantastic...the roof is amazing!
Hey Tom:
Look just beautiful. I love the corrugated roof.
Karl
Looks great, Tom.
Some nice colours to make things 'pop', too.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 24, 2021, 07:16:45 PM
Very nice build Tom. The roof is outstanding.
Curt,
Thank you for the kind compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on November 24, 2021, 07:35:43 PM
That proximity to the roundhouse will make things easy for the call boy :-)
dave
Dave,
I should have a rooming house nearby but more than likely, the call boys will find their man in the bar. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 24, 2021, 09:00:17 PM
Tom,
I really like the rusty roof!
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciate the kind support.
Tom ;D
Quote from: craftsmankits on November 24, 2021, 09:14:01 PM
Nice work on the roof Tom, like this kit, wish I had picked one up. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you. The galvanized tin color was a good base for starting the rusting effect. We had a great Thanksgiving and hope you did as well.This kit is still available from FOS and it's on sale.https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/the-pub-crawl-ho-scale-kitTom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on November 24, 2021, 11:25:38 PM
Tom,
The finish you completed on the roof came out great.
Think that the Anita Metallic base color you started with is a new one ?... can't seem to find it at the craft stores here.
Like the 3 different colors of rust that make it look used.
This thread is making me thirsty.
Tommy
Tommy,Thanks very much. I've had this galvanized color for about three months. If I hadn't seen a roof reading Bob did using it, I would never have bought it based on the metallic title. This is a Rust-Oleum product, I paid $1.49 at Hobby Lobby.Now go grab a cold one. 8) Tom ;D
Quote from: Janbouli on November 25, 2021, 03:09:15 AM
Great weathering Tom , what a nice simple building , love it.
Jan,Long time, no see and thank you. Happy to have you stop by for a look see. It was a fun build and is a very simple building and a great stand alone as well.Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 25, 2021, 09:00:06 AM
Outstanding..... 8)
Greg,
Muchas Gracias my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on November 25, 2021, 10:36:54 AM
Very well done.
Bob,
Thank you for the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on November 25, 2021, 10:44:44 AM
Wonderful job so far Tom. I really like the idea of splitting this one up like you're doing. There was just something about that contiguous block of structures that just didn't look right to me when this kit came out. The roof looks great. ;)
Bob,
Thank you and also for the info on the paint for the roof. Splitting the kit was a thought after I cut it to enlarge the small bar. The kit looks better to my eye now anyway. I'm liking the AK paints and washes the more I use them.
Tom ;D
Quote from: cuse on November 25, 2021, 11:36:31 AM
Fantastic...the roof is amazing!
John,
Thank you Butty, very much appreciate you stopping by.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on November 25, 2021, 02:14:44 PM
Hey Tom:
Look just beautiful. I love the corrugated roof.
Karl
Karl,
Very much appreciate you comment my friend, thank you.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on November 25, 2021, 03:27:23 PM
Looks great, Tom.
Some nice colours to make things 'pop', too.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you, I'm pleased with how this one turned out.
Tom ;D
I glued all the walls together that comprise the second part of the Pub Crawl. All the walls and wall signage were done last month when the new angled wall section was cut to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162228.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162239.jpeg)
More in a few.
I plan to light this one but won't do it until later. To plan ahead for the lighting, I made the three roofs removable for later access to the interior of the building.
I drew the interior wall lines on the underside of the roof panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162252.jpeg)
Fast forward and the three roof pieces are complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162305.jpeg)
Continued -
The angled roof will be rolled roofing, the gabled roof will be shingled and the flat roof will be gravel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162317.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162329.jpeg)
I plan on a few extra details for the exterior but they will be discussed in detail later in the build.
Continued -
The next two photos show where this section of the Pub Crawl will be located on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162340.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261121162351.jpeg)
Done for now.
Looks great so far Tom.
Curt,
Appreciate it my friend, thanks.
Tom ;D
Nice job on the first building. I'm gonna be on the lookout for that metallic paint--really looks good.
Jeff
Really nice results so far on this, Tom. Separating the one large pub from the others is genius and gives more options for some of those things we all seem to like: more wall space for signs, sketchy alleys, areas for junk to accumulate next to walls.
Eager to see more!
--Opa George
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 27, 2021, 07:44:04 AM
Nice job on the first building. I'm gonna be on the lookout for that metallic paint--really looks good.
Jeff
Jeff,Thank you, appreciate the compliment. The paint is one we all should have in the paint stash.Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on November 28, 2021, 06:58:04 AM
Really nice results so far on this, Tom. Separating the one large pub from the others is genius and gives more options for some of those things we all seem to like: more wall space for signs, sketchy alleys, areas for junk to accumulate next to walls.
Eager to see more!
--Opa George
George,
Thanks very much. The separating of the one was a good idea and now it looks better in my opinion. Although, it would be fine as one structure. I'm ready to add peeps and junk around the buildings.
Tom ;D
It's always good to know all is on the level. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175618.jpeg)
I added exterior rafters and will trim them to fit once the roofs are placed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175631.jpeg)
I also weathered the walls using pastels and Hunterline Medium Brown and Light Gray A&I mix. You'll see this in later thread photos.
More in a few.
I was rooting around under the layout one day and found my old box of roofing materials. Way back in 1985 I purchased a few sheets of The Rock Quarry roofing papers.
I had just a little of the green left. These are so old that a couple of pieces broke just picking them up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175643.jpeg)
I managed to get just enough of the green to cover the Irish Pub roof. I used double sided tape on the roof panel and then added the green paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175654.jpeg)
Continued -
The green paper was trimmed to fit. I used Hunterline Light Gray A&I and pastels to weather the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175712.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175723.jpeg)
Rafter tails were added after the roof was weathered.
Irish Pub sign still needs some weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011221175736.jpeg)
More on the thread tomorrow afternoon.
Tom,
An Irish Pub with a green sign and green roofing. I wonder if the beer is green year around or only on St. Patty's day. Love the weathering on that roof, looks prototypic and really makes the roof "pop"!
Looks great Tom. Love the pub sign.
Hi Tom,
Love the look of that green roof. Looking forward to more updates.
Mark
Looking good Tom! Very, very good! ;)
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 01, 2021, 06:45:40 PM
Tom,
An Irish Pub with a green sign and green roofing. I wonder if the beer is green year around or only on St. Patty's day. Love the weathering on that roof, looks prototypic and really makes the roof "pop"!
Jerry,
Hey, I'm all about keeping it green! 8) The green roof was just an accident with the Irish Pub but I'll happily take the credit for doing it.
Thanks very much for the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 01, 2021, 06:52:07 PM
Looks great Tom. Love the pub sign.
Curt,
Thank you for the kind words and for stopping by.
Tom ;D
Quote from: craftsmankits on December 01, 2021, 10:52:28 PM
Hi Tom,
Love the look of that green roof. Looking forward to more updates.
Mark
Mark,
Much appreciate the compliment on the roof, thank you. I'll have an update later today.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 02, 2021, 06:56:27 AM
Looking good Tom! Very, very good! ;)
Butty Bob,
Thank you, much appreciate the kind support on the build.
Tom ;D
Tom;
Looks great as always. Had time today to try and catch up on the many great projects underway. It is interesting that most have switched to the Hunter product for staining the wood from the old Indian Ink. I am still trying different things. Latest is tinted ink with high alcohol content to run through airbrush and attempt to have it essentially dry on contact. However, I still brace.
Looking forward to seeing the progress. Thanks for sharing.
Jim D
Nice job on the building. The green roof and weathering is quite fetching!
Looking good, Tom.
I agree - the green roofing (and the matching sign) look terrific!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Jim Donovan on December 02, 2021, 01:01:07 PM
Tom;
Looks great as always. Had time today to try and catch up on the many great projects underway. It is interesting that most have switched to the Hunter product for staining the wood from the old Indian Ink. I am still trying different things. Latest is tinted ink with high alcohol content to run through airbrush and attempt to have it essentially dry on contact. However, I still brace.
Looking forward to seeing the progress. Thanks for sharing.
Jim D
Jim,
Thanks for stopping by and posting your thoughts. I do like the Hunterline A&Is as I don't have to mix it and they have many different stains to choose from. I like the idea of spraying the A&I, never tried or thought of doing it, but will give it a try.
I wish you well on your upcoming procedure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 02, 2021, 01:13:53 PM
Nice job on the building. The green roof and weathering is quite fetching!
Darryl,
Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated.
By the way. I tried to send an order this afternoon but PayPal has apparently changed their way of doing business. They now want to use a CC instead of taking it directly out of checking. I'll try again tomorrow.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on December 02, 2021, 04:49:10 PM
Looking good, Tom.
I agree - the green roofing (and the matching sign) look terrific!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you, I'm liking the green roof more and more. I'm also looking forward to getting this one finished.
Tom ;D
Included in the kit are some paper awning. I've used paper awning in the past but Kenny, KC's Workshop, has more detailed awning for models. I've used these several times and really like the better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173242.jpeg)
I carefully painted my awning with Floquil G. W. Cream and Model Master Green Zinc Cromate.
They are easier to paint if left on the carrier sheet. I got a little out of the lines but weathering will take care of it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173254.jpeg)
More in a few.
While the awning was drying, I moved back to the larger gabled roof. I was going to use Campbell shingles but to save some time I opted for the Northeastern shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173346.jpeg)
i started with an edge row and then moved on the the rest of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173358.jpeg)
Continued -
I applied Elmer's glue to the roof using my finger tip. I placed the shingles on the workbench, upside down, and then pressed the roof down onto the underside of the shingle sheet. When dry, I used a new #11 blade to trim the edges.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173417.jpeg)
The loose shingles at the top will be fixed when the ridge cap pieces are added.
I removed a row of shingles from the sheet and then cut individual pieces as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173453.jpeg)
Continued -
The individual pieces were glued to the ridge as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173507.jpeg)
I used a tweezer to hold the shingle. I bent it up in the middle, added a little glue and then glued it to the ridge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173519.jpeg)
Continued -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173533.jpeg)
First coat of weathering was added to the roof using Hunterline Driftwood A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173550.jpeg)
Continued -
A coat of Hunterline Light Gray A&I was added when the first coat dried. When dry, a dusting of dark gray pastel chaulk was added.
I then added rafter tails and then glued the large awning in place over the second story windows. I used the Hunterline Driftwood on the awning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173602.jpeg)
Back in a few, getting a cold Diet Pepsi.
After weathering the Beached Whale sign, it was glued to the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173614.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021221173631.jpeg)
Done for today.
GREAT coloring and weathering! Love this build. Awnings are great for a splash of color in a Driftwood world.
John
Everything looks great Tom. The awning is a very nice detail.
Hey Tom:
Looks just great. Love the colors and light weathering.
Karl
Tom...
Great building.
Thanx
Bob
Coming along nicely Tom!
Very, very, nice!
Quote from: cuse on December 02, 2021, 08:30:00 PM
GREAT coloring and weathering! Love this build. Awnings are great for a splash of color in a Driftwood world.
John
John,
Thank you! I did add the colors to break up the bleakness of the Driftwood.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 03, 2021, 08:14:08 AM
Everything looks great Tom. The awning is a very nice detail.
Curt,
Thanks my friend. The awning are nice for a change. KC does a great job on his awnings.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on December 03, 2021, 11:19:17 AM
Hey Tom:
Looks just great. Love the colors and light weathering.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks buddy, much appreciated. Happy you like the colors and weathering.
Tom ;D
Quote from: bparrish on December 04, 2021, 01:22:28 AM
Tom...
Great building.
Thanx
Bob
Bob,
Thanx very much for the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on December 04, 2021, 03:34:24 AM
Coming along nicely Tom!
Mark,
Thank you. I appreciate you checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on December 04, 2021, 09:40:17 AM
Very, very, nice!
Bob,
Thank you as well for very, very nice compliment.
Tom ;D
The awning on the top floor is such a nice twist , looking great Tom.
Leo's Watering Hole has a billboard sign on the roof. I changed up the construction of the billboard from the kit instructions.
Doug includes in the kit a piece of card stock for the sign backing. The location of the bar can be seen from both the front and back. I didn't want visitors to see the back of a piece of plain cardboard so I made the billboard out of scale 2X10s.
The 2X10s were stained with Hunterline Driftwood and when dry stained with Hunterline Medium Brown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163212.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163223.jpeg)
More in a few.
Quote from: Janbouli on December 05, 2021, 04:41:28 PM
The awning on the top floor is such a nice twist , looking great Tom.
Jan,Thank you for the kind words and also for checking in. I like the awning look with KC's detail vs. plain colored paper.Tom ;D
I then stained the billboard sign with Hunterline Light Gray and Light Gray Pan Pastels.
I also cut the sign into three equal sections. This is how the sign would have been applied to the billboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163147.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163158.jpeg)
Continued -
I glued the right piece in place on the 2X10s making sure it was correctly placed and square. I then added the other two pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163234.jpeg)
Taking a Diet Pepsi break back in a few.
While the sign was drying, I used Gallery Glass Liquid Leading to represent the tar pitch on the roofs. I used a small pointed brush for this. The liquid leading was squeezed onto a piece of paper, the brush dipped in the pitch and then applied to the roofs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163245.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163259.jpeg)
Continued -
I forgot to mention and photograph the flat roof shown in the above photo. The roofing paper is a Stoney Creek product. I looks like tar paper and/or graveled roofing. I used it as gravel and weathered accordingly.
I finished building the billboard framing using scale 4X4s and two short pieces of scale 2X8s. Here is how the sign looks after several years out in the elements.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163310.jpeg)
The two chimneys were added using the black Gallery Glass Leading as glue and tar.
I didn't finish the other casting in the kit but will do so later after recovery.
For me, the kit is finished for now. Photos of the finished structure are shown below.
Dang I need to get a new camera. Those gray spots are an annoyance.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163322.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163335.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163347.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163358.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163411.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163424.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163437.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163448.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163500.jpeg)
I used a short piece of the paper as rolled roofing for the top of the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163512.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163524.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051221163537.jpeg)
Great build Tom.
Great build end to end Tom...but extra impressive handling of the prototypical wear on the billboard based on real installation methods. Very clever...never seen that before.
See you soon. Take care...John
Yes, echoing John's comments -- a triumph overall, with special kudos on the billboard.
So may I steal that billboard technique? Pretty please?
--Opa George
Another great addition to the A&S Tom.....see you after surgery. 8)
Looks great, Tom. Another great addition.
Hope all goes well today. See you soon.
Cheers, Mark.
Looks great Tom.
See you when you get back.. I'll say a pray for you!!
Jerry
Hey Tom:
Billboard looks just great as do all of the signs on the buildings.
Karl
Quote from: cuse on December 05, 2021, 09:26:36 PM
Great build end to end Tom...but extra impressive handling of the prototypical wear on the billboard based on real installation methods. Very clever...never seen that before.
See you soon. Take care...John
John,
Thank you for the kind and generous compliment. I've done one other billboard like this one and it does change the look to a more realistic one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on December 06, 2021, 06:38:14 AM
Yes, echoing John's comments -- a triumph overall, with special kudos on the billboard.
So may I steal that billboard technique? Pretty please?
--Opa George
George,
Thank you, much appreciated. You may steal any of the ideas you find here. Please help yourself. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2021, 07:47:13 AM
Another great addition to the A&S Tom.....see you after surgery. 8)
Greg,
Thank you for stopping by and I like where this one fits north of Tahope.
Surgery, what's that. I'm beginning to wonder.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on December 06, 2021, 01:15:23 PM
Looks great, Tom. Another great addition.
Hope all goes well today. See you soon.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,Thank you. Everything will be fine if we ever get around to having the surgery. Right now, looks like January 3 or 10 of next year.Tom ;D
Quote from: Jerry on December 06, 2021, 03:32:19 PM
Looks great Tom.
See you when you get back.. I'll say a pray for you!!
Jerry
Jerry,Thanks very much my friend. Prayers are always good, thank you.Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on December 07, 2021, 05:03:44 PM
Hey Tom:
Billboard looks just great as do all of the signs on the buildings.
Karl
Karl,Thanks buddy, appreciate you stopping by for a look see.Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 09, 2021, 01:06:17 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2021, 07:47:13 AM
Another great addition to the A&S Tom.....see you after surgery. 8)
Greg,
Thank you for stopping by and I like where this one fits north of Tahope.
Surgery, what's that. I'm beginning to wonder.
Tom ;D
Understand your frustration.....but when it does happen, if you here them call "Calling Dr. Howard...Dr. Fine...Dr. Howard" report to Langford surgery.....get the hell out of there as fast as you can. :D :D :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53KcqITIPlA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53KcqITIPlA)
What Greg said!
dave
Tom,
Nice additional to your RR.
Tommy
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on December 10, 2021, 11:16:29 AM
Tom,
Nice additional to your RR.
Tommy
Tommy,
Thank you very much.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on December 10, 2021, 10:41:39 AM
What Greg said!
dave
One of the jobs of law enforcement in District 25 was to respond to the Psych Ward. We always went in pairs of four officers, checked our weapons at the locker and rode the elevator to the 5th floor.
We grabbed a mattress and proceeded down the hall. This Curly looking guy at the end of the hall said he was a freight train and then charged. We let him get close and then we charged and pinned him up against the wall while the nurse jobbed him in the hip with a horse needle. He went limp immediately.
Our job was only to help subdue the person and not carry them back to bed. We were told later they gave him a pillow and blanket. He later woke up and went to bed himself. Strange but true.
Tom ;D
Great looking buildings, very nicely done.
Hey Tom:
You are quite welcome.
Karl