The Modeler's Forum

Hi guys.

Well, we are having our next modelling get together early in January, and as I need to get a project ready for this - I thought 'what better than the new challenge scratchbuild?'  For this I will be attempting to build a model based on an article in the Jan and Feb issues of the 1964 railroad Model Craftsman.  You can find a heap of info here, including a link to the plans and a small picture on the cover of the Feb 1964 magazine.  Thank you so much for all that helped with this.   

Quotehttp://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6163.0

My model will also be based on two photos that appeared a decade later (I'll put up the magazine issue when I locate it - I have photocopies in a folder to work from) from when Jock Oliphant built his own version of the mine from these plans.  Jock's version differed in several ways, most notably with the addition of a barn over the lower tracks.

The plans were pretty good, but quite complex.  They did not feature a floor plan - which they really needed!  It took quite a bit of study and head scratching to work on exactly what was going on in places.  I drew my own floor plan, blew the elevations up to 200% and then went about building a mock-up.  For this model I felt this was REALY necessary.  I would have made several mistakes on expensive modeling materials (rather than cereal boxes) otherwise - I still might!  This mock-up took some considerable time to build and so I would estimate it will take in excess of 150 hours to build the actual model - not including the headframe.

I used plastic irrigation pipe I found lying under our pine hedge to cut the circles for the three flotation baths.  This pipe was exactly the same diameter as that used in the plans (nice fluke).  I used mu hand mitre saw to make the cuts.  If you check out the photo on the cover of the magazine in the link above you will see these baths are suspended on frames of differing heights and there are decks protruding half way across them from the small gables rooms. These make quite a dramatic scene.

Next up will be to mock in a bit of scenery and add a couple more details - a copula and two stacks.  Then I will need to choose cladding materials, doors and windows, roofing materials, stripwood and colours.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark, Cheers,

This is quite a complex mine and will be a challenge to scratch build as well. This will be an exciting build and one I'm excited to follow.

It will be fantastic.

Tom  ;D

I am really looking forward to see you scratch build the mine Mark. It's going to be a real focal point when finished on the layout.

This build will keep you out of trouble for bit.....I'll enjoy watching this beauty come together Mark.  :)

It's great when you find something is "pre-cut to the right size" :-)  I'm looking forward to seeing this progress.  Those concrete tanks are a signature element that remain when the rest of the mill is long gone...


dave

Hi Mark,

I'll be following this project with great interest. I already learned something from your first post. I need to eat more cereal.  ;D

I received the two magazines on Dec. 29 just as advertised by the tracking number. If you have any questions on a certain area of the magazine I can scan it.

Bernd

Hey Mark:

Looking forward to seeing what you do with this.

KARL

QuoteThis is quite a complex mine and will be a challenge to scratch build as well. This will be an exciting build and one I'm excited to follow.

It will be fantastic.

Thanks very much, Tom.

Yes - it is pretty complex.  Especially all the timberwork involved in the tall bases for the baths. There are also a number of aerial walkways, sets of stairs, and a fairly sizeable water tower that Jock added to the model.  I'm not yet sure how I will bring raw material into the plant - there are a number of ways to do this.  One of the books I have out of the library at the moment features an aerial cableway which looks pretty cool and would be a fun build.  I do have a number of mines to build for Shadowlands, so this feature could be used elsewhere.  The more I have thought about it the more I have pushed the idea of logging and timber mills aside in favour of more mining.  The structures appeal more with their 'tumbling down the hillside' look, but also lend themselves more for selective compression.  Of course it is also possible to hide mainline track underneath.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI am really looking forward to see you scratch build the mine Mark. It's going to be a real focal point when finished on the layout.

Thanks, Curt.

It sure will be!  Such a great model.  I've had that picture of Jock Oliphant's model in my inspiration folder for decades.  I'm not exactly sure where it will go in Shadowlands yet.  I have a couple of turnaround loops at each end of the mainline run, and the middle of these is the most probable location.  I have the Sheepscot Limeworks as a definite for one of these loops.  I'm also considering a position along the reverse side of the backwall of Tellynott - quite a narrow spot that would need hidden mainline underneath - but potentially doable.

Cheers, Mark.

Quotehis build will keep you out of trouble for bit.....I'll enjoy watching this beauty come together Mark.  :)

Thanks, Gregory.

Yes - definitely!  I'm guessing I put 20 hours of work into the mock-up.  If that is 10% of the build time I'm looking at 180 hours plus.  I'll certainly be pushing it to be finished by April - but for me, that's not the point.  These challenges just get me so motivated.

We also have our Easter convention (postponed from 2020) scheduled for this year.  For this I am on the layout tour and giving a talk - so there will be a fair bit of work around this.  Of course it is all touch and go on whether things will go ahead or not.  We are so lucky we can share this great hobby virtually!

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteIt's great when you find something is "pre-cut to the right size" :-)  I'm looking forward to seeing this progress.  Those concrete tanks are a signature element that remain when the rest of the mill is long gone...

Thanks, Dave.

Yes - always nice.  I did try a couple of other things first - but the pipe was ideal.  Not only was it exactly the right size, but it was also no use for anything else.  I only kept it for irrigation ducting.

I have some great photos of some long abandoned NZ industries where concrete footings are all that is left.  Wilsons cement works is one of my favourites.  I'm hoping to find room in Shadowlands for this, also.  It fits in nicely with the mining and limeworks theme.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI'll be following this project with great interest. I already learned something from your first post. I need to eat more cereal.  ;D

I received the two magazines on Dec. 29 just as advertised by the tracking number. If you have any questions on a certain area of the magazine I can scan it.

Thanks, Bernd.

I started keeping all my cereal boxes from the last time I went to build a mock-up.  It was Steam Era structures Layflatte Linoleum works and it used a lot of cardboard!  I ended up having to pull all my plastic box inners out of the cereal to get enough cardboard.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLooking forward to seeing what you do with this.

Thanks, Karl.

Its great to have you along for the journey.  It should be a lot of fun.

Cheers, Mark.

hey mark:

You are quite welcome.

Karl

Hi guys.

A bit of progress to report as I ready myself for the two days of modelling starting tomorrow (Monday).

Whilst carrying on in mock-up mode I went about trying a quick base for the stack.  I have cut a piece of 11mm styrene pipe for the stack and used a small measuring cup to make a plaster base for it.

Photo 1 - shows the cup cut in two and the plaster poured in the bottom section.

Photo 2 - I sorted all my windows and doors and prepared them all.  Here they are after a wash and rinse, drying.  I gave myself a few choices by doing a couple of extra doors and windows.  I hope to get these primed this afternoon.

Photo 3 - shows all the stripwood after its leather dye and alcohol bath.  Lots here - but I'm bound to run out!  2"x2", 4"x2", 4"x4", 6"x2, 6"x6", 8"x2", 10"x8", 12"x3", 12"x4", 12"x12" and two stringers.  I also weathered up some cladding with my usual ingredients - Golden Titan buff followed by some splodges in browns and greys smeared in while the Titan buff was still wet and then a wash with leather dye and alcohol.  I did some board and batten, some shiplap and some V-groove.  Its about now I am realising how much work will be involved in this...

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark


This is going to be a fun build to watch, I'm looking forward to following your progress.

Looking forward to assembly. That is a lot of strip wood.

QuoteThis is going to be a fun build to watch, I'm looking forward to following your progress.

Thanks, John.

Off to the garage with my morning coffee now.  My three friends are due to arrive in 20 minutes.  Two days of building fun!

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLooking forward to assembly. That is a lot of strip wood.

Thanks, Curt.

Its the same in miniature as in 1:1.  I remember doing some boxed out windows on a show home.  I couldn't believe how much work was in them - or how much timber I burned through!  I'll see what I can do in the next two days...

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well, we are back from our short holiday so thought I'd better update.  It was a great two days modeling, but I found the plans tricky to work from and there was a LOT of talking!  I also ran into some problems painting the siding.  The inside out sock technique simply doesn't work on board and batten siding.  All the paint is left on the the battens and there is none or very little in-between, especially along the sides of the battens.  This is the exact opposite of nature and simple looked wrong.  I tried various different things but couldn't find anything I was happy with for a peeling paint effect.  In the end I opted for a thin wash. in oxide red.  The trim and windows and doors were dry sponged with unbleached titanium.  I figure they could have put a stain on the cladding and painted the trim.  Anyway - I didn't get anywhere near as much done as I had hopped, but did have a great time!  Our next two day stint will be either at at the end of Jan or the start of Feb.  In the meantime I will keep chipping away at it.

Photo 1 - shows an overall shot of progress.  I also found this cladding more work than others.  You have to both carefully mark and cut out all your openings, but then also add your windows and doors and carefully mark (with a sharp knife) remove, and trim away the battens so the windows and doors fit flat against the cladding,  You can see I spliced some siding to a piece of 1.5mm styrene.  This is another addition - working out where to use scrap to save on material and then splicing the scrap to the visible cladding.  I also spliced some brick work to the end wall where the land will slope up against it.

photo 2 - shows the first of the three canter-levered gable-ended rooms.  I also had to consider which part of the walls would be cladding and which would be beams.  I decided to make up the decking platform.  I cut slots in the middle beam into which I inserted the 6"x2" joists.  I will add the posts after the building is assembled.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Great job so far Mark.

hey mark:

Looks like you are off to A good start. I'm following along with great interest on this build.

Karl

Hi guys.

Thanks very much Curt and Karl.  I'm pleased to have you both cheering on from the sidelines!

OK - since part of these challenges are to do a build thread in the hope of teaching something - I thought I'd do a bit of a list for tackling those windows in tiny or thin pieces of siding without breaking them - the old school way.  As I had a limited supply of board and batten cladding, and as buying replacement here in NZ is somewhat of a long winded, if not impossible, exercise at present, I needed to be rather frugal with my usage.  This resulted in my choosing to splice styrene to siding whenever possible.  Long story short - I ended up with a long narrow piece of siding that needed a row of small 6 pane windows separated by a small slither between.

1.  Take your time.
2.  Add good quality high adhesive masking tape to the back of your siding.
3.  Make a cup of coffee (or get a diet Pepsi {Tom - hoping to get a chuckle there...})
4.  Mark the window openings with a sharp pencil (I use a 0.5mm clutch pencil)  Measure twice, cut once.
5.  Using a steel rule and a sharp knife cut across the grain of the wood first.  Place your ruler so that you can see all the other markings when doing this, using a piece of scrap cladding to keep your ruler level if needed.  Make several passes, not going too deeply at the end of the opening you are cutting towards.  When you have cut through the siding, turn the piece 180 degrees and finish the cuts the other way - again with several passes.  Do the same for the other cross grain cuts.  If you have a top or bottom (or side - depending on the siding and which way the grain is running) that is bigger than the other - cut this one all the way through first.
6.  Take your time...
7.  Flip your work over and make sure the tape is also cut to the corners.
8.  Flip the piece back over.  Now you can cut with the grain.  Several passes. Cut one side fully, then the other.  Again - if you have a choice - do the thicker end first.
9.  Check the fit of your windows (doors), and trim if necessary.  Its better to get the size right first time if you can as the siding is very fragile at this stage - so measure twice, cut once.  Its also better to be slightly small than too large!
9.  You may choose (as I did) to add bracing to the back before staining/ painting.  I would recommend this.

I managed to cut all 9 of my windows with only one split - which I was pretty happy with.

Along with this wall I also cut all of the visible walls to size and cut out the openings.  For the gable end walls I first made cardboard templates.  This aided in finding the most economical way of using my limited material and made marking on the siding easier.  I will use a different cladding type for the barn over the tracks and the barn on the top level.

There are two internal elevations which are not shown on the plan.  If scratchbuilding this model I would recommend drawing these two elevations up first - I wish I had.  The smoke stack, drawn in solid black, is also right over some critical measurements.  These can be worked out - but it would have been far easier if it was drawn with dotted lines, or omitted for clarity.

Photo 1 - shows the long skinny wall after the window openings have been cut out and bracing added to the back.  I also cut around the window with a sharp knife and removed the battens so the windows sit flat against the siding.  The tools I used are shown.

Photo 2 - shows the back side of the wall with tape and bracing added. Also the tape I used and the steel rule.

Photo 3 - shows the walls ready for staining.

Photo 4 - shows an internal view of the main sub-assembly.  there is still a bit of work to do on this before I can start adding other sub-assemblies to it.  I will also need to incorporate extruded foam to change elevations.

Photo 5 - shows the front view.

Photo 6 - shows a view from the end.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

How often do you change your blade when doing cuts like this?  I've never really measured, but I probably should keep track of that.  But I always start a new project with a new blade :-)


dave

Amazing project Mark- I'll be following.

You've made some real progress Mark. Great how to. Beautiful modeling.

Mark


Great modeling and thread, very fine work.  Sorry to hear the sock technique didn't work on the board and batten siding.  I understand why. It sure is a good technique for clapboard - it's my go to technique for pealing paint ever since I learned how to do it from one of your build threads.

Hey Mark:

You are quite welcome. Wow you are really moving along. It looks just great so far.

Karl

QuoteHow often do you change your blade when doing cuts like this?  I've never really measured, but I probably should keep track of that.  But I always start a new project with a new blade :-)

Thanks for following along, Dave.

Not often enough!  If you look in the photo above you will see a blue builders knife.  That is my go to knife.  It has a retractable blade with a series of diagonal 'snap' lines across it.  I just use pliers to snap off one of these short sections and its like a brand new blade.  I find these blades solid and you can apply a good amount of pressure without the blade bending.  I use the Tamiya blades.  I have found the cheaper ones tend to bend at the end when snapped - which makes them worse than useless.  When doing a straight cut of any length across the grain you can feel the blade working too hard if it is too dull.  It will also start to splinter the wood.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteAmazing project Mark- I'll be following.

Thanks, Carl.

This one should keep me out of trouble for a while.  I have big, neat structures lined up for Shadowlands!  Years of work.  All of the timberwork should be fun on this one.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteYou've made some real progress Mark. Great how to. Beautiful modeling.

Thanks, Curt.

Chipping away at things.  I'm looking forwards to getting that first main sub-assembly finished.  I think I will feel a bit more like I have tamed the monster.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteGreat modeling and thread, very fine work.  Sorry to hear the sock technique didn't work on the board and batten siding.  I understand why. It sure is a good technique for clapboard - it's my go to technique for pealing paint ever since I learned how to do it from one of your build threads.

Thanks, John.

I use the sock method on scribed siding, too.  I first fully paint the wall with a large brush and then wipe all the paint off the flat surface.   This leaves the paint in the recesses.  I then use the sock technique.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteWow you are really moving along. It looks just great so far.

Thanks, Karl.

Hopefully I'll find time for a bit more progress today.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,
What a great project !
Know that you will do a great scratch built on the huge project.
Tommy

Impressive so far Mark.....well done.  8)

QuoteWhat a great project !
Know that you will do a great scratch built on the huge project.

Thanks, Tommy.

It certainly has some complexities about it!  Still working on getting that first main sub-assembly together...

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteImpressive so far Mark.....well done.  8)

Thanks, Gregory.

In my search through my old kits for spare board and batten siding I found Centennial Models 'stamp mill'.  It looks to be a similar design (although somewhat simpler) so may find a place in Shadowlands.  It looks to be one of those kits which is half scratch-building.  There are several sheets of siding with no wall shapes or openings on them.

Below is the single photo in the kit.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well - in the process of getting the main sub-assembly together I keep finding necessary tangents.  One of these was the second cantilevered room to sit over the highest flotation bath.

Photo 1 - I made up the small room.  The sides I kept 3mm lower in height than the front for the beams to notch in.  I taped the back of the gable wall and corner trim was glued on and trimmed (I always add my corner trim to the gable walls).  I then cut out the opening for the door.    After this was glued in I trimmed the battens and added 6x2 trim for framing.  I glued bracing on the back edges of the gable wall, hard up against the corner trim.  I cut a base from siding and glued this to the front with a piece of bracing added.  I then cut and glued the side beams to the base and front.  The sides were then glued to the front and beam.  Finally I cut and added a styrene back and glued this in.

Photo 2 - I held the room against the wall to which it is to be attached and carefully cross cut the battens.  I then used a small chisel blade to remove the battens.  I also notched out a small piece of corner trim for the far beam.

Photo 3 - shows the room held in position.  This will give a nice clean join when glued together.

Photo 4 - I liked my way of doing the small decking on the first room, so did it again.  Here I am holding the center bearer showing the small notches made with a saw and a 6x2 held in position.  I will glue a piece of 6x2 to the two ends of the row of joists and then glue this boundary joist the the two outer end bearers and the end of the notched bearer to the two long beams.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Great modeling Mark.

QuoteGreat modeling Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

Its not a project I can sit down to and just carry on with.  Every time I have to get my head back into what I am doing.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

A little more progress.

This photo shows what I mean about headwork.  The piece of styrene to the left has to be spliced onto the piece I am holding to the right.  For each piece like this I have to carefully measure off the plan - typically working off two elevations - then carefully measure my wooden piece, draw up a template sketch, double check everything, and then cut out the piece of styrene.  Then the notches are cut out for the bracing and I get to check to see if I got it right.  The old adage of measure twice, cut once has become a bit of a mantra.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

hey mark:

looks like you are moving right along. Looking good.

Karl

Great job with that Mark.

Haven't checked in while. Looking good Mark.

I keep looking at those drawings in the magazine and am amazed you can make sense of it all.

Bernd

Quotehey mark:

looks like you are moving right along. Looking good.

Thanks Karl.

Chipping away at it...

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteGreat job with that Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

Hoping to get a bit more done later today.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteHaven't checked in while. Looking good Mark.

I keep looking at those drawings in the magazine and am amazed you can make sense of it all.

Thanks, Bernd.

Like I say - if you are going to tackle this project, start by drawing those two internal elevations and a plan view.  I think I would also redraw the elevation without the chimney obscuring those important measurements.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well - I finally have that main sub-assembly together!  I still have a small gable wall to put on the top section and then its on to the lower pieces - including that last suspended room.  You can see I opted to build full height walls at the back rather than stepping the base.  I buy my 1.5mm styrene in large sheets from a local manufacture - so its not that expensive - a fraction of the price of buying from a hobby store.

Photo 1 - back left
Photo 2 - front left
Photo 3 - back right
Photos 4 & 5 - above

Cheers, Mark.

Hey mark:

Moving right along. Looking just great.

Karl

Looking great Mark.

I am following your progress with interest because I built this model when Gil Melle first published his drawings.

My model was destroyed in a move with no photos ever taken.

I was pretty young at the time and made one bad mistake.  I had read about using masking tape for tar paper roofs, so that is what I used. 

Within a few years the masking tape lost it's grip and began lifting off the wood.  It just made a big mess of everything.

I have kept the plans with the thought of building another version someday.

I really enjoyed seeing Joc Oliphant's version.  One of my favorite all time models.

I'm really looking forward to seeing your finished version.

QuoteHey mark:

Moving right along. Looking just great.

Thanks, Karl.

Things have ended up lining up pretty well.  I had to persuade things a little bit in a couple of places.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLooking great Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

Its coming together slowly...

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI am following your progress with interest because I built this model when Gil Melle first published his drawings.

My model was destroyed in a move with no photos ever taken.

I was pretty young at the time and made one bad mistake.  I had read about using masking tape for tar paper roofs, so that is what I used.

Within a few years the masking tape lost it's grip and began lifting off the wood.  It just made a big mess of everything.

I have kept the plans with the thought of building another version someday.

I really enjoyed seeing Joc Oliphant's version.  One of my favorite all time models.

I'm really looking forward to seeing your finished version.

Thanks, Darryl.

Its good to meet another fellow 'flotator'.  You are number 2 so far.

We will have to see how we go with masking tape tar paper roofing.  I have use this method a reasonable amount.  I always use the high tack version.  Hopefully the glue technology has improved over the last 40 years.  I haven't noticed anything letting go yet - and its been a good few years now.

I agree - Jock's model is amongst my favourite ever model builds.  Its been on my list to build for decades.

Cheers, Mark.

Looking good Mark..... 8)

Mark an excellent job on this one.


Sorry it took so long to post!


Jerry

hey Mark:

You are quite welcome.

Karl

QuoteLooking good Mark..... 8)

Thanks, Gregory.

I got some windows glazed and installed yesterday.  I then started working on the sub-assembly at front right.  In doing so I ran into a small problem with my floor piece not working out width ways from one end to the other.  Finally a chased it back to the plans.  The two end elevations are slightly different in size - enough to matter and cause problems.  Of course, living in a country where we use metric measurements I pretty much ignored the imperial measurements on the plan and just measured with my ruler.  They still should be right, though.  Just another thing to look out for.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteMark an excellent job on this one.


Sorry it took so long to post!

Thanks, Jerry.

Better late than never they always say!  Its great to have following along.

Cheers, Mark.

Truly impressive build.

Great progress Mark. Looking very good.

Bernd

QuoteTruly impressive build.

Thanks, Bob.

It will certainly be an impressive complex when finished.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteGreat progress Mark. Looking very good.

Thanks, Bernd.

I'm making slow progress.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well I got the last of the three suspended rooms together yesterday.  I still need to add the window.

Photo 1 - shows the room from the front.  This one has a single door - per the plans.  I opted for a door without a window.  Jock put in a door with a 4-pane window.

Photo 2 - shows the room from underneath showing the neat fit I got by trimming away those battens.

Photo 3 - shows the room clamped to the gable wall, gluing.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark


It looks great! You are making good progress, these big builds always seem to go slow.

QuoteIt looks great! You are making good progress, these big builds always seem to go slow.

Thanks so much, John.

I was pleased to get that main sub-assembly together and see all my gable walls lining up!  I had to attach a piece of 6x2 on its flat up one of the rakes, but when painted to match the cladding and the roof is overhanging it will never be seen.  I have to remind myself I have worked on roofs in 1:1 scale that are worse than this (we took over about 3 houses that had been half built by a cowboy once - horrible, horrible work).  When you are scratchbuilding you have to make up the instructions as you go.  there is no-one telling you what order is best or not to forget 'this' or 'that' before you do the next step.  I like this a lot - but I do find you need to get your head into things before you continue.  The smaller sub-assemblies are much easier.

Thanks for looking in and for your many thoughtful comments.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

I've been working on the next sub-assembly.

Photo 1 - shows the overall assembly.  I'm still working on the end two walls.

Photo 2 - shows the sub-assembly off the sub-assembly.  For this little suspended room I first measured and cut out a fold up room from a cereal box.  I checked fit and then unfolded and cut the door opening.  I first reduced my doors height by a couple of millimeters to better suit the room size per the plan.  The door was glued into position and then the room folded up and glued together.  When dry I covered the bottom, sides and front in masking tape which I painted Floquil weathered black.  I dry brushed this with unbleached titanium.  I added a piece of 4x2 painted unbleached titanium as a sill and I added 2x4 battens and trimmed and then made up a roof section.  I glued the room to the wall (which I had previously braced) and then glued on the roof.  I then added masking tape to the roof, carefully trimming and folding over the edges.  I cut a strip for the back and added this as a flashing, embossing it around the battens with a skewer.  The roof was also painted weathered black - but is yet to be dry brushed.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

A nice afternoon modeling with my good friend, Neil yesterday.  Thursday is usually my favourite day of the week because of these sessions.  Below is my progress.

Photo 1 - shows the quick plan I drew up.  I drew this up on a cereal box and then cut out the gable wall to use as a template.  The piece missing is where I changed my mind on the height of the wall.  After I cut in my window and door openings I decided they looked too low when compared to the photo.  I have no plan of this barn - only two photos of Jock's model.  I also discovered that I had used one of my 4/4 windows on the main sub-assembly (where I was supposed to use a 6 pane window).  I decided I wanted both windows to be 4/4 windows on the barn, so will have to prime and paint one more.  I had to cut the window and door opening to the left of the barn on the main sub-assembly in after the structure was assembled, as I missed them earlier.  I'm pleased I don't do that too often!  And just to rub salt into the wound, its been so long since I was doing all these openings that I forgot what I had decided.  I could remove the window and patch below, but I'm a little worried I'll unnecessarily cause damage - and I know if I do I'll be really peeved - telling myself "I told you so!  You didn't need to do that!"  But I do think a 6 pane will look better...  Tomorrow is a brave new day...

Photo 2 - shows the three barn walls cut out and stained.  I have braced the two side walls.

Photo 3 - shows the back of the weird wall.  I decided I wanted the main roof of the lower level on the main sub-assembly to run all the way through as though the barn could have been a later addition.  I didn't make it this way on the mock-up.  You can see the wall is braced and spliced together,

Photo 4 - shows the weird wall sitting in position.  There will be rock running up steeply at this point.   I might add some spackle to the styrene walls at this point to resemble plaster over concrete.  There is an aerial walkway and set of steps running from the front of the barn, up and along the side of the barn (past the door) and then up to a deck in front of the door and window on the main sub-assembly.

I also grained and stained some 8x8, 10x8 and 10x10 for bearers, posts and joists for the barn.  Already I'm needing more stripwood!

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Great looking progress Mark.

Superb work.

Mark


Looking great, starting to really take shape.

Hi guys.

Thanks for checking in and your words of encouragement, Curt, Bob and John.  As always, they are very much appreciated.

I decided I need to get the supports for the barn done at this stage.  The two photos I had of the barn were either at the wrong angle or too lower quality to really see what was going on.  I checked out a few photos of local coal barns from some of my NZ books and drew up a quick plan on some masking tape that I affixed to my cutting mat.  I covered this in lunch paper and then went to work on the two support walls.  I used 10x10's and 10x8's.  I opted for three posts with a lower dwang and cross bracing between.  With my last Tichy Train order I bought some rivet plate sheets and so I cut this up to represent nail plates to strengthen the wall design and add a bit of neat detail.  I went all out and made enough for both sides of both walls.  I also cleaned up some footings left over from a Campbell water tower.

I cut a hole in the underside of the barn floor and added what I think is some window security bars in their frame to represent a grizzly through which the pure ore is loaded into the wagons.  (please let me know if I have my terminology wrong here).   I doubt this will ever be seen - but I felt the need to do something here.  I primed this and then gave it a shot of some tan paint before gluing it in position.  I added 10x8 joists to the floor.  I may add some 8x2 to cover the edge of the grizzly.

Photos below are pretty self explanatory.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

The tie plates are a nice detail.

I built this model when Gil Melle first published the drawings.

I was surprised how large the building is.

Joc Oliphant's version was beautiful.

I learned not to use masking tape for tar paper roofing as the tape peeled off years later.

My model was destroyed in a move.

Enjoying your progress.

Thanks, Darryl.

Hopefully the glue on masking tape has improved - but we will see - or not, eventually.  I did use good quality, high tack tape from a good art supply store...

Yep - it sure is a statement of a structure.  Those flotation tanks look very cool at the different levels, too.

Thanks for checking in, cheers, Mark.

I'll be along to see the finish of this build Mark..... :)

Thanks, Greg.

Its not finished yet.  I got carried away with benchwork and bridges.  Back to it soon.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi Mark, any updates on this build?  Looks promising.  Mark

Hi guys.

Its been a long time since I did work on this project.  I am itching to get back to it - but I'm trying to get the floating ceiling units built for the layout before winter is up.  I'm extending winter this year into September, although, in truth, it feels like spring has arrived early this year.  However, I do have quite a few more photos to upload, and did make a fair amount of progress passed where I got up to on this thread.  So...

Photo 1 - Shows the wall to support the room overhanging the track.
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Photo 2 - I added spackle to the plastic base, sanded and painted to simulate concrete.
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Photo 3 - Shows the impressive verticality of the end wall.
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Photo 4 - Photo 4 - shows the structure from the front.
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Photo 5 - The suspended room from left.  There is a aerial walkway and steps leading between the two doors to be built here.  Danger!  I'm getting that itch to get back to this!
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Photo 6 - An aerial shot as the complex starts to come together.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 7 - The cardboard mockup as I finalize position on the layout and track arrangement.
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Photo 8 - A view the other way.
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Photo 9 - The track plan.  The flotation mill sits just below the O in Shadowlands.  There should be a great view from the end of the alcove with the flotation mill in the middle distance and the gorge in the background.  Also, when standing at the end of the alcove in the top left there should be a great view through the gorge, under the two large bridges, with the flotation mill in the background.  Imagining these huge scenes gets me very excited and motivated.
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OK - its Sunday afternoon here in NZ, and I need to get back to the next ceiling unit.  I'm hoping to have this one finished by next Thursday, so I can get a lift into position with it when Trevor comes around for our afternoon modelling.  I'll try and keep chipping away at updating my progress on the mill build.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

That will be one impressive scene with the mine building a great focal point.......well done Mark.  8)

Mark, Cheers,

Sunday morning here.

I agree, very impressive. The mine/mill looks great and its good to see you get back to working on it.

It seems from looking at the layout diagram that there isn't any place that isn't a great view or focal point.

Tom 

Mark

That is one big mill!  Great job so far on it. 

Jerry

Thanks very much, Gregory, Tom and Jerry.

Its a neat project.  It's nice to put it in perspective within the layout.  As Jerry says - it is one big mill - but it only takes up a tiny amount of real estate on the layout.  I find that exciting, but also a little daunting...  The two peninsulas (one in Tellynott, one in Shadowlands) allow borrowed scenery to be viewed across the peninsulas.  This complicates things, as views can be in multiple directions, but helps makes the layout appear more vast.

Cheers, Mark.

Love the layout diagram, and all the water and bridges.  Thanks for the update.  Mark