The Modeler's Forum

Since last I was able to post much has changed. I've learned a 3D CAD program called Tinkercad, have bought a large 3D resin printer, a 10 watt diode laser, foam cutter and had already acquired a paper draw and cut Cricut type machine.

With these new tools I have built a couple of prototype structures for the local museum, one was an Orange Packaging Company called Boyers and the other was the terminal for the Atlantic Coast Line in Leesburg, FL.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123221607-519991320.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123221607-519981705.jpeg)

The Spanish tile roof of the building was 3D printed.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123221609-52000672.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123221610-52001690.jpeg)

The windows, water tower and orange crates were 3D printed. The building was designed in Tinkercad and walls cut using 10 watt diode laser computer controlled.


With the rapid advances happening in both equipment available and electronics that can be used I thought I'd provide a thread on my next project highlighting the advantages these items provide in improving my modeling efforts. I will begin posting progress and equipment information tomorrow.

Nice work, Jeff.

You seem to be getting a handle on your new modelling machinery.

Cheers, Mark.

Just fantastic, Jim.

I started with Tinkercad, too. I often still use it to simplify a task, but Fusion360 is now what I design all my kits in.

Just love what you're doing here. 3D printers and lasers changed my modelling world.

Jim,

Very nice work here. Very nicely done on the station build.


Tom 

Beautiful work Jim.....can't wait to see more in depth threads about all the high tech stuff you're doing.  8)

Thanks folks. Hopefully I will be able to share some information others will find helpful. The technology of hobby equipment is truly advancing at an incredible rate. What I am showing today will be outdated within 5 years, if not sooner. I will take a minute to explain the tools I have that were not available 10 years ago, at least not at a cost hobbyists like myself could afford.

First and the oldest is a Cameo 3 made by Silhouette. This craft machine can be used to cut intricate designs in fabric, vinyl, and card stock. There are newer versions available but for my purposes this machine is adequate. What makes these machines very useful are their ability to register the paper or card stock that has first been printed with a design. It then can make intricate cuts so that the printed design printed is cut out accurately. It also makes short work of cutting acetate sheets for clear plastic windows. I prefer to use real glass but sometimes plastic works just fine.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-171123193951.jpeg)

I am using it to create mockup's and interior items for this project. This is the first floor of the building:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123214935-5199263.jpeg)

More in a minute.

Next up is the Saturn 2 3D resin printer. There are two main types available for hobbyists at this time, filament and resin. Filament printers are able to make large, fairly complicated, items quickly however their level of detailing is limited by the thickness of each print layer. Resin printers use a liquid and with LED lighting can produce a very thin layer, building up the finished item with .02-.05 mm layers, resulting in highly detailed items. However they are much slower then filament printers and the the liquid used is toxic and must be handled carefully. I can't stress that enough. I wear nitrile gloves and a ventilator whenever I have the cover off the machine. I have the printer in an air conditioned area of the garage and ducted fan ventilation. Originally I was rather careless and as a result developed an allergy to the liquid in its raw state. I now break out with a rash if I come in contact. Not taking any more chances I wear the ventilator as well. Here you see the machine as well as the ventilation.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123215413-519941592.jpeg)

When the printer has completed a print the resulting item needs to be washed and further hardened by UV light. I use a Autocubic wash/ dryer:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123215414-519951907.jpeg)

Since the item is elevated from the platen by use of standoffs, they need to be trimmed off and the part can then be painted as needed. Here is a photo of parts that will be used as arches on the Saturn 2 platen:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-171123202658.jpeg)

More Tomorrow.

Perhaps I can explain the last major tool I will use before calling it a night. By far the most fun I bought a craft laser called Sculpfun 9S. It is a 10 watt diode laser that travels in a 14 x 14 area by attached belts and is controlled by a laptop computer running on a program called LaserBurn. There are bigger, faster machines available but for $200 and change this was a good machine to learn on. It it great at cutting up to 1/8 inch basswood and baltic birch plywood. I buy the plywood in 5 x 5 foot sheets at a cost of $29.00 per sheet. This is a lot less then what craft basswood is running these days. The advantage of the laser is of course precision as well as allowing for very detailed cuts. The learning curve for this machine was much shorter then the 3D printer but then it is essentially a 2D cutter with the ability to score and emboss. I use the same CAD program to produce the .svg files needed (the 3D printer uses what are called .stl files) and then import them into the LaserBurn program. However you can use the LaserBurn program directly for most design work if you simply want to use a laser cutter.

Don't confuse these diode hobbyist lasers with commercial lasers. I typically set the speed of a cut at 400 mm per second, that is about 1.75 inches. A commercial laser covers that distance much, much faster. Moreover I need 4 passes to cut through a 1/8 inch birch plywood. However, for one off items and small projects they are great.

Of the three machines this is the one I believe will see the biggest improvements over then next five years. Currently there are two type of commercial lasers, diode, which is limited to about 20 watts (one company, X-Tool, now offers a 40 watt. True commercial lasers all run using a CO2 head allowing for much higher wattage but cost in the thousands rather then the hundreds. However given the rapid advancement in all things electronic I can see a day when diode lasers will be more powerful than CO2 or perhaps a new method will come about and replace both methods. I keep my laser in the same area as the 3D printer, it is enclosed with a low cost fire resistant protective cover and sits on a low cost stainless steel table bought from Amazon. The stainless ensures the beam will not cut through the table. I also keep a mesh tray under the laser for the wood to sit on while being cut. It is connected by duct to the ventilation fans so smoke and wood smell goes outside. A separate but required item to make the laser useful is a air assist. This pump provides air at the site of the cut, pushing debri out of the way and helping keep the parts cool. Much like the 3D printer care is a must when using a laser. The reflected light can permanently damage your eyes which is why I have the enclosure with a coated see through door. I also have glasses made for lasers when I need to look at a part while it is being cut. So here is the laser as well as some of the first parts cut out for Debra D's Boutique of Distinction:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161123215414-51997499.jpeg)

Till Tomorrow
 

Thanks for the behind the scenes look at your setup, Jim. These tools, no longer bank breakers, really do change the hobby for the better.

And they are incredibly addictive! I draw and print details like there's no tomorrow!

Jim,

Very interesting information. Thanks for sharing.

Tom 

Very interesting Jim.....the tech is getting amazing and I'll be looking in on the build.  :)

To make this project the most important tool is going to be Tinkercad a free online entry level CAD program.

https://www.tinkercad.com

Sponsored by Autocad, the maker of Fusion 360, it is designed to be simple to learn and use. Geared for use in schools, even a grandfather like me can learn it. There are plenty of videos available on YouTube that help you become competent quickly. For basic projects like designing windows and doors it will quickly produce the files needed for a 3D printer or laser cutter to make, depending on what you are trying to accomplish. However I am pushing its abilities to its limits on this project.

Tinkercad is based on the used of creating, merging and subtracting shapes to create the final design. Cubes, spheres, cylinders and such are created, attached to each other, stretched, erased and so on. An advantage of using such a program is you build up a library of finished projects which can then be used in new projects. Also finished files as can be found at sites like Thingiverse and Cults can be imported (limited to less than 25mb size). More on these sites later but here are their locations if you'd like to see the wealth of designs that are available.:

https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://cults3d.com/en

Usually the final shape in Tinkercad might be made of of a combination of perhaps 200 shapes. However I am finding this project is pushing past 1000+ shapes for many parts. It appears I will need to take the plunge and learn Fusion 360 soon. However, Tinkercad is a great place to start and has allowed me to do much.

The inspiration for this scene is a building my wife and I saw in Canada during a recent cruise. I learned it was built in 1900 and was originally a wine distribution firm with the owner's family living on the upper two floors. I hope to bring as much as I can of its elegant design to Debra D's Bouquet of Distinction

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-191123203538-521981272.jpeg)

So here is the initial design. More complete design images will be shown as we go.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-191123203755-52203212.png)

hello Jim, that prototype is one good looking building. I can't wait to see how you approach this build.

Jim,

This will be interesting to watch. The building looks like a 1:1 Magnuson kit.

Tom 

Jim,

Wow!  Just wow.  That's all I can think of at the moment.  Count me in as a follower.

Groovy.

One day we will all be printing our model trains.

Thanks for the update here, Jim. I can see you are definitely putting Tinkercad to the test!

One note: plywood is horrible to cut with a laser. It's the glue in the layers that causes so many issues and will often lead to charred and thick cut lines. I have even tried using "laser grade" ply to no avail. Most manufacturers avoid it completely now. Anyway, just a heads up to save some headaches.

Hi Jim - thanks for starting this post. Very interested to learn more about your journey with these new technologies.

You sure are up for a challenge with this building!

I will follow along.

Wow, thank you to all the nice compliments and interest in this project. I have been working towards this one for the past year. When you name the building after your wife you better get it right and I could not think of a better company she would own. Those that know Deb know she loves her clothes and dressing up. When we go on a cruise I better pack a suit and the tux is a given. Deb is the little girl who always loved to dress 'pretty' and she never outgrew it.

Back to the construction. Graig you are right, the laser produces a very dark cut going through 3 mm Baltic Birchwood plywood. It is manageable for two reasons, first it is only three ply keeping the glue issue down and the air assist helps protect the laser opening. More importantly I am using the plywood as a substrate. All surfaces will be covered with 1/32 Monster Modeling brick or hidden by the windows and doors. I doubt anyone making craftsman kits would want to use this plywood but for scratch building it allows for a very strong structure and provides an easy surface to 'hang' other materials on it.

I am essentially making the building from the ground up. Looking at the photo of the real building you can imagine each floor like a shoe box, sitting on top of the floor below. I will use 3D printed columns, brickwork and trim to allow each floor to nest onto the floor below. That is why in the Tinkercad image you see each floor in a different colour, each will be a different design.

Due to file size limitations of Tinkercad I am unable to show a complete 'finished' design of the entire building so I will have to settle with screenshots of the various parts that make up each floor. For the first floor I made a complete replica of the double door entrance found on the prototype building. The hinges and handles will be 3D printed separately so they can be painted as seen and attached to the main part. As this project will include an extensive interior I will need to finish the inside of the doors and windows as well. Inside the enclosed walkway will be two of these:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201123195510.png)

With the shape of the first floor set I had the laser cut the various walls, floor and ceiling. I used Elmer's Wood glue as I will be gluing sheeting to the walls and don't want water to loosen the joints. The laser took 5 passes moving at 400mm per minute to cut each part out. About 3-5 minutes per part.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-191123203540-52199239.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-191123203544-52201198.jpeg)

In the first photo you see the outer walls are glued to the floor and each other. The eventual ceiling I played with trying some ideas like cutting brick and various colours. There is a lot more work needing to be done before I can make an acceptable brick pattern with the laser but it was worth a try. All will be covered and not seen.

In the second photo you can see the idea I have of an enclosed walkway. This is to allow the ladies of the day to see the fine fashions available inside before entering while keeping them out of the sun or rain. I got this idea from a walking mall we saw in Italy and the idea stuck with me. You may note that 1/32 Monster Modeling 5 row American brick is glued to the plywood substrate. I again used Elmer's Wood Glue. There is very little charring left by the laser and it took only 2 passes at 400mm to cut this thin sheeting, about 1-2 minutes.

More in a minute.

Once the front brick sheet glue had fully dried I decided to use dry chalk pigments rather than staining or painting the brick. I had tested this out on a smaller project and liked the look it produced. I went with a rust red color then highlighted areas with a dark yellow and a brown. At this point here is what it looked like:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-211123215346-522342471.jpeg)

I used a clear spray matte varnish to lock the pigment to the brick and protect it. I ended up spraying four coats as the wood just absorbed each like a sponge. When dry I coated the entire surface with sand grout. I used a cosmetic brush to lightly remove the excess. I did this three times to make sure all the crevices between bricks were filled with grout. So here are the two steps:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-211123215156-522301504.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-211123215158-522311247.jpeg)

With the brick coated with grout I lightly spray wet water on the service and then scenic glue.This were having used wood glue is important. Regular white glue will loosen due to the water and the thin sheet will buckle. Even having used wood glue I had a couple of spots try to curl but used clamps to hold the wood in place until dry.

I like the look grout gives the brick. I learned the technique watching a Kathy Millatt  video a couple of years ago and have used it ever since. I am not sure what happened to the photos I took of designing and making the front column work. So I will just end this posting here with a photo of the front so far. Stone columns decorate the brick front. The arches are lined with stone as well. There are several daisy's on each inner arch wall, daisy's being Deb's favorite flower. The columns are based off the prototype photo with an ivy design embossed across the top decorative limestone. Circular decorative vents will go in the squares formed by the horizontal stone work. I wetted the brick lightly and spread super glue on the backside of the decorative stonework before clamping each to the other. Wetting the wood helps ensure a strong bond and resin parts glue best with either epoxy or CA. The columns are intentionally at the height of the top of the models 'floor'. There will be a stone basement that the ground floor will nest into. That is it for now.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-211123215349-522361661.jpeg)

/color]

More fantastic stuff here, Jim. Excited to see this project unfurl. You've got some fantastic results already.

Going forward, give 3mm MDF a shot. It cuts like a dream compared to plywood, offers the same tensile strength (for our purposes), and is often cheaper to buy.

Amazing Jim, you're scoring points with Deb..... 8) 

I remember the wonderful build of Kathy's layout many years ago on the forum, does anyone know what happened to her?

Pretty cool.......... sir

see ya
Bob

Quote from: GPdemayo on November 22, 2023, 07:52:01 AMAmazing Jim, you're scoring points with Deb..... 8)

I remember the wonderful build of Kathy's layout many years ago on the forum, does anyone know what happened to her?

Kathy Millatt was doing some scenery videos for Trains.com, as well as dabbling in Sci-Fi dioramas. Some of her space ship creations are available as 3D prints that are crowd-funded projects.

Pre-pandemic, she was a judge for a British reality show where the contestant teams built railroad layouts in like 2 and a half days. The show was very popular and led to big increase in interest in modeling. I think there may be a link to that show in the older posts?

Since my last update I have been designing, printing and cutting additional parts primarily for the interior. The resin 3D printer has had several failed prints so it was time to change the resin tanks's bottom FEP film. The way a liquid resin printer produces an object is there is a UV light panel under the resin tank. The UV panel produces a light pattern that is appropriate for the layer being 'printed'. After a few seconds the resin between the printing plate, which is about .05mm from the bottom is hard, the plate moves up .05mm taking the the now hard shape with it and the process is repeated The floor of the tank consists of a special type of clear plastic (FEP film) which is held in place by interlocking plates screwed together to form a seal that keeps the resin tank watertight. Over time this film gets beat up, scratched and turns cloudy until it no longer allows enough UV light through. When that happens it is time for new film. I mention all this for those that might be interested in a resin printing and offer some tips that can help. I will highlight any tips in red as I go forward. Below you can see the worn old film and what the tank looks like with the new film attached. Film is the only real disposable item on the printer. The manufacturers say the uv light panel is also disposable but it will operate several hundred hours and I have only ever replaced one and that was from me accidentally breaking it.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123201609-52241562.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123201611-522442038.jpeg)


Tip: The FEP film takes a beating, that is why I spend the extra money for the improved version NFEP. FEP film from Amazon is about $12.00 and the much better NFEP is about $19.00. I have found I can go about six months using the NFEP film and only two months between changes with the old FEP film. Moreover because you need to handle resin carefully the less you need to clean the tank the better.

Another tip, make sure you ONLY use a clean plastic putty knife when attempting to remove stuck dried resin from the film. It can be easily torn or damaged using anything that is sharp or made of metal. Trust me, I know.

While the 3D printer waited for me to fix it I designed interior wall parts and had the laser printer cut them out. The theme for the interior first floor is to be a Victorian European look with wallpapered walls, extensive wood trim,  skirting and lots of paintings. Here is what I came up with:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123201615-522462130.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123204422-52250770.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123204419-522492291.jpeg)

Lastly, I worked on a method of creating realistic windows, having mullions showing on both sides of real glass. I found it is possible, and as matter of fact the inner framed mullions allow for the cut glass to be put in place, then the frame is put over and glued to the outer window, avoiding glue getting on the glass entirely and presenting a realistic look. However, to accomplish this Clover Glass has to be used. Available directly from cloverhouse.com, it is only .006 of an inch thick (microscope slides are 3-4 times thicker) which works out to about 1/2 inch thick in HO scale, still thick but doable and the glass is exceptionally clear. Since I'm going to the trouble of creating interiors I want big windows that can easily seen through. Here are the first test windows for the back and how they look in place:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123201613-522451319.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-271123201617-52247191.jpeg)

Next update I will post detailed CAD drawing of the window so you can better see how the back frame with mullions holds the glass firmly against the outer frame and outer mullion's creating a clean look.

Jim, I seldom have to change the FEP on my printers. There shouldn't be a reason it gets so "beat up", as you say. My guess is that when a print fails you're draining the resin tank and then scraping out the stuck, failed pieces? If so, this is a sure fire way of hurting your FEP.

Instead, use the printer's "Tank Clean" feature — which cures a very thin layer of resin on the bottom of the tank, which you can remove in one fell swoop by finding only the very corner with your plastic scraper. I don't even drain the tank if I need to do this anymore (including the Tank Clean process itself). This thin layer picks up all the failures, almost like you're getting your leg waxed!

Hope this helps.

Real glass in frames.....amazing.  8)

Jim,

Beautiful modeling, love the thought process to enclose the glass in the window frames.  Did you source the wallpaper or design and print it yourself? 

I'll have to try your brick coloring technique,  looks great.  Wonderful building so far.

Jeff

Thanks Graig and thank you for the laser material idea as well as the tank cleaning technique for the 3D printer. My starter printer did not have that feature and I have forgot about it with the Saturn 2, using it will be a big help. I usually get failed prints when I am either getting too cute with the amount of supports used or try to go too fast. However, there always seems to be enough time to do it right the second time.

Quote from: Keep It Rusty on November 22, 2023, 01:48:53 AMMore fantastic stuff here, Jim. Excited to see this project unfurl. You've got some fantastic results already.

Going forward, give 3mm MDF a shot. It cuts like a dream compared to plywood, offers the same tensile strength (for our purposes), and is often cheaper to buy.

Thanks
Jim

Quote from: GPdemayo on November 22, 2023, 07:52:01 AMAmazing Jim, you're scoring points with Deb..... 8)

I remember the wonderful build of Kathy's layout many years ago on the forum, does anyone know what happened to her?

Thanks Greg;

I am keeping her in the dark on this one, hope to surprise her when on the layout. Kathy is still doing amazing work but I think she might be a little burned out on train modeling. The show she was a judge on was great, I hope they bring it back.

Jim

Quote from: swisstrain on November 21, 2023, 06:29:56 PMHi Jim - thanks for starting this post. Very interested to learn more about your journey with these new technologies.

You sure are up for a challenge with this building!

I will follow along.

Thanks, glad you are following along!

Quote from: NEMMRRC on November 21, 2023, 08:23:27 AMGroovy.

One day we will all be printing our model trains.

Jamie, only if AI let's them!

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 28, 2023, 01:58:16 PMI'll have to try your brick coloring technique,  looks great.  Wonderful building so far.

Jeff

Hi Jeff;

Glad you like it and let me know how it goes for you.

Jim

Quote from: ACL1504 on November 17, 2023, 10:09:12 AMJim,

Very nice work here. Very nicely done on the station build.


Tom

Hi Tom

Thanks and glad you are tagging along.

Quote from: bparrish on November 22, 2023, 12:05:12 PMPretty cool.......... sir

see ya
Bob

Thanks Bob;

Appreciate it.

Jim

Time to update progress and describe methods. I hope is to have each floor (3 and a basement) completely detailed, inside as well as out. In order to allow them to be seen I am making the individual floors so they nest into the one below which will allow them to be seperated to see inside. I still need to figure out the lighting but have some ideas.

I am using the Cameo 3 print/ cutter more on this project then on anything I have ever done. A Cameo 3 is a Cricut type machine most often used for making vinyl cut outs and fabric patterns. I am putting it to good use to make colorful interior details including tile flooring, wallpaper, signs, pictures and even mirrors. What fashion store does not have a bunch of full size mirrors? I designed a pattern based on the hallway windows and using cardstock created the backing and picture frame. Then I had the Cameo cut silver mylar with tape backing. So here are the parts and how it comes together:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212553-522772033.jpeg)

More in a minute

For Christmas Deb bought me a new MacPro 16 laptop using the latest M3 chip along with a 45 inch OLED LG monitor. The combination is absolutely amazing. I have been using a 12 year old Mac Desktop machine up until now. This computer/ monitor combination is really speeding up development:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212551-52276619.jpeg)

Using Tinkercad, Silhouette Design and Light-burn (all design programs) I created the files to make the floor wall trim, ceiling roof trim, wall pictures, floor, doors, windows and signs. This photo of the inner hallway wall shows all of these when put together. I only need to complete the double doors for this wall to be complete:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212403-522711912.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212555-522791965.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212806-52283916.jpeg)
 

At this point I need to finish up a few windows the doors and the ceiling. I am trying to publish full size photos so you can see both the details and the warts. It always amazes me that views that look good to the eye the camera finds the goofs. Oh well, it is the best I am able to do. So here is were everything stands:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212802-52281984.jpeg)
I placed the office in back left and there is a changing room next to it for ladies only. The back section of floor is the shipping department. The upper floors will be storage and production.

Some additional photos:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212800-522802368.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-161223212804-52282829.jpeg)

Jim,

I am impressed with your creativity as well as the planning required to make everything fit together so well.  I'm impressed with this build and cannot wait to see your further progress.

Jim

Just read this thread.  I'm really impressed!!!

Jerry

GOOD STUFF JIM!

Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 18, 2023, 09:29:59 AMJim,

I am impressed with your creativity as well as the planning required to make everything fit together so well.  I'm impressed with this build and cannot wait to see your further progress.

Thank you Jerry I hope to provide some better insight of these new tools abilities as I go forward.

Jim

Jim

Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 19, 2023, 02:20:26 PMGOOD STUFF JIM!

Thanks Daryl!

Quote from: Jerry on December 18, 2023, 01:10:43 PMJim

Just read this thread.  I'm really impressed!!!

Jerry

Thank you Jerry, I'm hoping I can give folks ideas of what these new machines can do.

Jim

Up until now I have been spending most of my time designing and making the parts needed for the first floor.

 Now I'd like to take a minute to explain a little how the 3D printer and laser cutter open up possibilities to improve the presentation of some of the aspects of structure modeling, in this example the ability to provide very realistic and unique doors and windows, both inside as well as outside. I previously touched on my testing of windows that have mullions on both sides of the glass. I found using the 3D printer for the actual window and the wood laser cutter to make the inside mullions and attached inner frame works best. The 1/16 inch thick basswood frame provides a good solid connection with the glass and glues to it better then resin window to resin inner frame. The cut glass can now be placed between the two parts and held in place without any glue coming into contact with the glass. In order to achieve as realistic a presentation as possible Clover Glass must be used as it is only .006 inches thick, over 5 times thinner then microscope glass slide covers. It can be bought at:

https://cloverhouse.com/Cart/index.php?cPath=37https://cloverhouse.com/Cart/index.php?cPath=37

I personally love to use real glass where possible, I think the time needed is well worth the effort, however getting glue in the visible area of the glass is always a problem. Using this three part 'window' eliminated the issue. The first photo shows the design of one of the windows. The shape is different but design is the same.  The next photo shows the outer windows shortly after having been printed but not yet removed from their supports. After cleaning and drying they are painted much like normal plastic windows. The resin printed window has a deep frame on its outer sides which allows the cut glass to be placed inside and then the wood inner frame is placed over it. Dimensionally the inner frame is snug against the outer frame as well as flush to the back and only a little glue is needed to keep both in place and the glass from moving. The final photo shows the end result looking from the inside out.  The camera was only 6 inches away from the window so every wrinkle or imperfection can be seen. From two feet away it looks just like a multi pane window however I do intend to go back and see what debris can safely be removed once the model is finished.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223223837.png)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223225341.jpeg)

Tomorrow I will go through the steps to create the main doors and showing how the glass is cut and fitted.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223221024.jpeg)

Very clever Jim and totally amazing!  

Hey Tom,

 Great work so far and thanks for sharing your work with drawings.
It's great that technology is getting so affordable for the hobbyist. 

What software do you draw with for your laser???
Are you using lightburn to run it???

I built a 100 watt CO2 laser with a 18"X36" bed, have 4 resin and 3 FDM printers, and a Cameo Pro that I use for complete builds in N scale,


 Thanks


 

Nicely done Jim.....it takes the hobby into a whole new direction.  8)

Suggest adding a new forum to discuss laser cutting, 3D printing, machining and other modeling technologies....

dave

What Dave said.....

Quote from: deemery on December 21, 2023, 11:10:44 AMSuggest adding a new forum to discuss laser cutting, 3D printing, machining and other modeling technologies....

dave

Happy to add this!

Quote from: R Edington on December 21, 2023, 10:37:46 AMHey Tom,

 Great work so far and thanks for sharing your work with drawings.
It's great that technology is getting so affordable for the hobbyist. 

What software do you draw with for your laser???
Are you using lightburn to run it???

I built a 100 watt CO2 laser with a 18"X36" bed, have 4 resin and 3 FDM printers, and a Cameo Pro that I use for complete builds in N scale,


 Thanks
Rodney;

Thank you for stopping by. To answer your questions I do most of my drawing using TinkerCad, even if I am going to export the file 2D for the laser or the Cameo cutter. I sometimes use the Silhouette Design program, especially if I am going to print a design and have the Cameo 3 cut it out. Once the design is finalized I make an .SVG file and send it to Light-burn to tweak the design for shading, engraving and slight design changes if needed. Then the Light-burn program runs the laser using an old Mac Laptop I have. My laser is no where near the power you have made. Mine is a 10 watt diode laser made by Sulpfun. Your 100 watt CO2 is a serious machine. I just had my Elegoo Saturn 2 fry the mother board so I am using the little Elegoo Mars 2 machine I still have. Not sure what happened to the Saturn but I managed to fry the innards so not sure if I will rebuild or get another at some point. The little Mars 2 gets most of what I need done so all OK for now. Thanks for following along and hope I answered your questions.

Jim

 

I see our guru of Forum software has added a new category for new tech tools, thanks Rusty! And thanks to everyone who has stopped by to see progress. I have been a little slow on this project but will catch up the thread today.

Jim

So I promised to show how the doors were made and said I'd post it about a month ago ::)  ::) Oh boy, well better late then never. I designed the main entrance doors using Tinkercad and came up with this design:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201123195510.png)

The 3D resin printer made two copies. I designed the doors so the glass could be slid down into the middle for the top window and I had back frames made to hold the other two door windows in place. Once printed I painted them red with a rattle can which produced a textured finish. Not sure I like it but I went with it anyhow, from a distance it doesn't show up much. I cut the clover glass to shape, used canopy glue to hold the glass and added the door handles that had been 3D printed separately and painted bronze. So the following pictures will show the steps and the result.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223214150-523061088.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223214154-52308110.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223214152-52307421.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223214331-523101849.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223214333-523111947.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-201223214337-523141522.jpeg)

And that's how I made the doors. The single doors were made in the same manner.

Jim


[color]

With the first floor essentially done I moved to the second floor. Each floor is designed to nest into the floor below. I am using the concrete/limestone columns and facing designs to act as the retainers for the floor above them, holding each in place. This also allows the various glue seams to be hidden from view. As I mentioned I am pushing Tinkercad pretty much to it part size limits on this project so am unable to produce a true finished CAD design in one frame, however I have been able to get more parts in one drawing then I initially thought possible. So here is a close approximation of what I am shooting for.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224205617-523972207.png)

The second and third floors are where the actual dress design, fabric cutting and sewing will happen so they will be much plainer then what is seen on the first floor. It is much like the old joke of the devil convincing a guy that hell isn't so bad, showing him golf courses, beautiful woman, white beaches and so on, when he he chooses hell over heaven he finds himself in hades as it really is, when he says it it not what he was shown the devil says, 'oh that was the marketing department, this is operations'.

I started with the floor that will also be the ceiling for the first floor. Using the Lightburn program I designed various length floor boards, added cracks, marbling and even nail holes to create a pattern the laser could emboss into the 3 mill basswood and then cut out the needed shape. Here is how the design looks in the program:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224211726-523981759.png)

It looks rather like a mess but if you blow up the photo you can see the individual boards. The various colors tell the laser how fast to cut, what power setting to use for that color and how many passes to make. You can see the rates and color chart on the upper right side, everything is in seconds and metric. There are six separate board designs placed randomly and then cut and pasted to duplicate the design.

The ceiling side has a picture design I found of a European church ceiling and printed it on 12 x 12 cardstock using the Cameo print/cutter and a Cannon printer.For the parts of the ceiling that are the back warehouse and front walkway I used a photo copy of the wood cut design used for the floor

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224211739-524002115.jpeg)

And here is how it turned out. Not Monster Modeling but good enough for what I am doing:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224211732-523991880.jpeg)

 

The walls of the second floor are made the same way as the first, 3mm birchwood plywood with 1/32 thick Monster Modeling brick. I designed the second floor windows to be made with the laser cutter and have the mullins on both sides with the glass in the middle.If anything it was easier to make the windows from basswood then using the resin printer. The glue holds better to the wood. The column design was carried through like on the first floor and it appears the nesting I was looking for will work just fine. Here in photos is the process and progress. You will notice the column colors are changing. I did not like the first color and I still not sure if I like this new version, definitely will need to be toned down some.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214343-52401884.jpeg)

Laser set up to cut out walls.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214350-524021534.jpeg)

Laser having just cut out walls from Monster Modeling American Aged Brick Sheet

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214410-524052482.jpeg)

3mm birchwood plywood and brick sheet ready to be glued together.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214807-524071744.jpeg)

Parts glued together using 3M 468 double sided tape.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214758-52406241.jpeg)

Wood frames cut out and ready to be made windows for front wall. Brick has been 'painted' using rust-red dry pigment and sand grout (scenic glue and wet water) used to fill in mordor lines.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214832-524101363.jpeg)

Windows in and walls glued to floor.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214356-524032011.jpeg)

Second floor together with most columns in place. End columns need to be painted before attaching to wall. That is progress for tonight hope you like it so far.

Jim

Looking good Jim.....fascinating to watch it come together.  8)

What Greg said , I so like what you're doing and showing us how you work.

Definitely an unique structure with an interesting use of the laser cutter along with the Monster brick panels.

dave

Quote from: GPdemayo on February 04, 2024, 08:08:30 AMLooking good Jim.....fascinating to watch it come together.  8)

Thanks Greg

Hopefully I will have something better to show soon.

Quote from: Janbouli on February 04, 2024, 04:23:55 PMWhat Greg said , I so like what you're doing and showing us how you work.

Thanks Jan

Appreciate you following along.

Quote from: deemery on February 04, 2024, 05:53:26 PMDefinitely a unique structure with an interesting use of the laser cutter along with the Monster brick panels.

dave

Thanks Dave;

I hope to show better progress soon

In the near future I will catch up how I got here but I thought I'd show where I am as of tonight. Lots of designing, laser parts, lots of  3D parts and modifications as I go to the original idea. Still it is starting to look like a building.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-120224195723-52419392.png)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-120224195715-524171020.jpeg)

As promised, it keeps getting better..... 8)

Well I finally have some time to catch this project up to date. As you saw from the previous photo, the building is coming along. Today I was able to make significant progress as well so let's catch up:

First a cautionary tale. 3D printers are precision tools that operate by utilizing some of the amazing advancements in electronics and IT. They need to be treated with care, kept clean and most importantly can not have water (or the liquid resin) get in contact with the electronics located under the resin vat. Unfortunately, and frankly I am not sure how, I allowed resin to seep into the guts of the printer where it shorted out the mother board destroying the electronics. The Saturn 2 was a $329 investment that I did not take proper care of and so like any tool it broke. To keep the project going I brought out my Mars 2 printer I still kept in storage, cleaned it up and continued on, a lesson learned. 

The Mars 2 is a good beginner machine but there have been many advancements since I bought it three years ago so I decided to indulge myself and buy a state of the art hobby grade 3D printer. Meet the Anycubic Mono 5s Pro. It has similar size abilities as the Saturn 2 but uses a 14.4K LED UV light plate for resin hardening up from the 6K UV light the Saturn 2 had. It has built in self leveling, an on-board heater to improve the print process and the ability to create small details significantly better then any printer I have used. It just arrived and today was the first chance I had to use it. It produced the third floor facade columns in half the time the Mars 2 was able to and the details are simply amazing. Overkill for the columns but will extremely useful when I get to interior detailing.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224194959-524201141.jpeg)

The design of the third floor varies from the second floor by having three bay window areas in the front and does not have the wood extension for warehousing in the back as the first two floors have. The design can be seen in the CAD photo I posted as well as the photo. The bay windows are made by first designing and printing a 'frame' that will glue into the wall opening provided for when I laser cut the front wall.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-030224214815-524082143.jpeg)

The above photo shows this 3D printed frame still on its supports.

The arch windows and bay window 'gingerbread' was cut out of 1 mm thick basswood (which gives a scale thickness of about 3.42 inches using the laser. The gingerbread was painted yellow sierra using Vallejo paint and the windows were painted moss green. Using the 'sandwich' technique I explained before I used clover .006 glass for the windows. As thee are small some of the glass was still showing on the outside of the window seams.  I was able to simply use an emery board to sand off the excess glass without causing it to crack. The frames were spray painted gray primer then spanish moss greeen. I used 560 canopy glue to fix the woodwork and windows to the frame. Finally. I used some strip slate roofing I still had from a previous project. I first covered the roofs with 3M 468 sheet 2 sided tape and then applied the shingles. For the corners I cut individual tiles in half and laid them end to end up the corner rather then attempting to overlap them like the individual rows. I found the look appeared more natural and will be doing this method from now on. They were glued in place using a dab of canopy glue.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224210117-52431700.jpeg)


And here is how the front wall looked when completed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224210111-5243012.jpeg)

You'll notice the window panes appear dirty and a couple are broken. I had left some of the resin dust on the window frame after sanding to create this look of a 'working' building.

Both sides of the third floor were made much like the second floor so nothing interesting to report for those parts. However the roof does show a lot. The railing all around the roof was made using a CAD created design based on the building I am using as a reference. located in Canada at 1 Princess Ave it was built in 1887:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224220111.jpeg)

Over the years it was updated and looked like this when we saw it:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224220525.jpeg)
I am incorporating the roof line of the 1887 version and the firescapes of the current version in this model.

The roof railing was copied using Tinkercad drafting a CAD rendering that in turn allowed .stl files to be made which the Mars 2 3D printer could then turn into three dimensional models of the railing and roof supports. To give the roof railing a little more detail then possible without a laser I made an accent design to show off both the large and small holes in the railing fence using Tinkercad. Then had the laser cut this design using .1mm thick bronze anodized metal sheeting. The accent parts were glued in place using canopy glue.

So here are pictures of the steps and result:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224223540-52442661.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224223545-52443840.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224223534-524381598.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224214604-524362043.jpeg)

The roof itself was cut with the laser using 3mm birchwood plywood. I then took a photo of a typical rolled roof, printed it on 12 x 12 cardstock using the craft color printer. Using a Sharpie I lined the surface to produce the effect of 3 foot wide rolled sheets. I placed 3M #468 two sided tape on one side of the cut roof and glued the photo in place. I added touches of liquid lead, a product mostly used for stain glass making, to the lines to create a 3D effect as well as sloppy roof sealing repair areas. I also dry brushed some brown 'dirt' color on the sheet. Finally I added the covered stairwell I had made from scratch based on photos of similar structures. It is made of basswood clapboard and a paper roof. I still need to add the water tower and some more details but other then that the roof is done.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224214604-524362043.jpeg)

The last thing I have completed is the base for the model. It tighties up the ground level and will be the 'roof' for the planned basement. At the moment it is not attached to the ground floor but I may glue them together at some point. In any event, the base is made up of gray Monster Modeling corner brick blocks that tie into the ground level giving the structure a clean complete look. I used Hunter cement wash to create the gray block look. And that catches you up to where I am at.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224232110.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224195247-524281570.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224195253-524291598.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-180224195241-524272244.jpeg)

Nice build Jim.  And an excellent job with the railing.

Jerry

The brick base is a nice touch Jim..... 8)

Thanks Jerry and Greg glad you like the progress.

With the main structure done I added lighting to all three floors. Since each floor is designed to come apart so the interior can be seen the wiring will run down the back corner be enclosed and have quick disconnects. I completed the ceiling lighting and here is how it looks. The front hallway lighting made a big difference in seeing details.The photo shows the light leaks which I fixed by applying gallery glass simulated lead, it is a gray color paste that dries to a rubbery finish. It is great for plugging light leaks. That's all till I complete the fire cases, outdoor signs, water tower and interior scenes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-120324211039-524531710.jpeg)

Marvelous Jim!  Love the lighting.  I know how much extra time/effort it takes to add lighting, but I'm hooked on it.  I blame Slim for that.   ;)

What Bob said..... 8)

Looks great, Jim.

Its a very interesting section.   love that building against the backdrop too.  A really captivating scene.

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks for sharing this build, Jim, and for sharing how you but laser cutter and 3D printer to work.

Very original building, in particular with the lighting.

Urs

A very impressive building.  The lighting really shows it off.

Jeff

Jim,

Outstanding job!  Looking forward to seeing it with the final touches.

Jim,

Unbelievably fantastic. Very well done.

Tom

Well done, Jim....you're quite the master of the 3d printer and laser cutter
Terry

Hello Jim, that's one impressive structure. I particularly like the level of detail that you can achieve with the advanced equipment that you are using. Again, congratulations.

I forgot to mention that the built-up roof looks great, well done..... 8)

Jim....you done good, buddy
Terry

Wow!  That's really impressive!  Thanks for sharing the journey.  

Quote from: ReadingBob on March 13, 2024, 07:11:09 AMMarvelous Jim!  Love the lighting.  I know how much extra time/effort it takes to add lighting, but I'm hooked on it.  I blame Slim for that.  ;)

Thanks Bob;

I too love what lighting does for the scene. I have hopes of figuring out how to add smoke and sounds like moving water to the layout in the future but for now lighting will have to do. Like you said blame Slim.

Jim

Quote from: GPdemayo on March 13, 2024, 07:42:54 AMWhat Bob said..... 8)

Thanks Greg!

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on March 13, 2024, 03:08:56 PMLooks great, Jim.

Its a very interesting section.  love that building against the backdrop too.  A really captivating scene.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark thank you. Your modeling posts are some of the best and I have learned much from your sharing. Really appreciate your comments.

Jim

Quote from: swisstrain on March 13, 2024, 03:30:00 PMThanks for sharing this build, Jim, and for sharing how you but laser cutter and 3D printer to work.

Thank you Urs for the kind words. It is really amazing how the new low cost cutters and printers can help improve realism in our modeling.

Jim

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 15, 2024, 06:14:08 PMA very impressive building.  The lighting really shows it off.

Jeff

Thank you Jeff, I'm glad you like it. It has been fun watching it come together and I agree, the lighting really helps to make it come to life.

Jim

Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 17, 2024, 02:07:55 PMJim,

Outstanding job!  Looking forward to seeing it with the final touches.

Thanks Jerry, I hope to write up the final additions tonight. It has been fun and like usual I learned a lot.

Jim

Quote from: ACL1504 on March 17, 2024, 03:11:35 PMJim,

Unbelievably fantastic. Very well done.

Tom

Tom;

You made my day, thank you.

Jim

Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on March 21, 2024, 08:37:02 AMWell done, Jim....you're quite the master of the 3d printer and laser cutter
Terry

Terry

I'm not sure I am the master of these tools but they sure help me make stuff i would never even consider trying without their help. I pushed the use of these machines on this project so I could demonstrate what they can add but even for my normal projects they really help. Thanks

Jim

Quote from: nycjeff on March 21, 2024, 02:01:55 PMHello Jim, that's one impressive structure. I particularly like the level of detail that you can achieve with the advanced equipment that you are using. Again, congratulations.

Thanks Jeff, hopefully my final additions will add to the realism.

Jim

Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on April 16, 2024, 09:49:39 PMJim....you done good, buddy
Terry

Thanks Terry, appreciate it.

Jim

Quote from: ReadingBob on April 17, 2024, 07:09:01 AMWow!  That's really impressive!  Thanks for sharing the journey. 

Thank you Bob;

Glad you like, I should be able to finish up tonight.

Jim

Well we have come to the final installment of building Debra D's Designs of Distinction. While there will be additional interior items I will be adding as time goes on, the structure itself is complete. I thought I would simply start with photos of how the building looks with scenery, outside people and vehicles in place. I will then show specific items of interest added to complete the project.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424193019-525741745.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424193024-525751665.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-160424092134-525121502.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424192715-52566478.jpeg)

The roof top billboard sign was made using the laser to cut out the lady silhouette, which is from free on line clip art. The lettering was also cut cut using the laser. Scale basswood stripwood was used to make the rest of the billboard. Using Tinkercad I created a water tower for the roof.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424201438-525802467.png)

In order to have electric lighting to each floor I had to make a compromise with the wiring. I ran the main lines to the outside controllers through a straw painted to look like a power pole. I will be capping the top of the pole once I am sure how much slake wire is needed for the floors to be seperated and their interiors seen. You can see the pole and wiring in this photo, it is located in the back of building so as not to draw attention. I have painted the wires using Delta Charcoal Black. The truck in front is an Inter-Action kit I made over the course of a year. Very fidgety to make with a lot of detail. It was made in 1908 and was electric powered.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424192715-52566478.jpeg)

The first floor of the building is the store and office on the front and a wedge shaped shipping area is located in the back. I will eventually fill the floor space with mannequins, clothing, more people and such but for now it is done enough for the grand opening.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424193014-52573653.jpeg)

The second floor is where the actual sewing is done for the clothing. While early factories did make some fancy clothing the majority was basic pants, dresses and underwear sold in large quantities to companies like Sears and Woolworths, thus the need for a railroad siding. The fancy dresses made a splash while the work pants paid the bills.

I used the laser cutter and 3 mill plywood to produce the tables. The legs are made from the legs originally designed for Singer Sewing tables. You can't see them in the photos but they are there. The laser cut them out of thin metal sheeting. The 3D printer made copies of the Singer Sewing Machine I found a free 3D file on the Thingverse.com website. The Windsor Chairs are also files I found free at this ever growing site. In the following photos you can see a few workers have stopped by to check out the new factory as well as catch up on local gossip concerning the owner Mrs. D. This early factory had employees using the outside staircases to get to the second and third floors so more space was available inside for production. Bathrooms were in outhouses.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424194220-52576830.png)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424192721-525671105.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424205258-525811939.jpeg)

The third floor was where the fabric was cut using scissors and templates. Offices for the managers were provided by the bay windows. Once cut to shape the material would be sent to the second floor for sewing then to the first floor for packaging and shipping.


The 3D printer made the wall cabinets from files found on-line at Thingiverse as well as the crates. The table was made like those found on the second floor. Not seen in the photo are the desks and chairs located within each of the bay window offices.

The Grand Opening sign as well as the USA buntings hung on the front of the building for the soon to be 'Grand Opening' were made using the Cameo 3,  2D paper printer/cutter. The designs are first printed to a inkjet printer having registration marks included. The Cameo can then read the registration marks to make exact cuts as well as creasing on the bunting to make a more realistic looking 3D banner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424192948-52568265.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424194236-525782229.png)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424192703-525641983.jpeg)

And that completes this building journey along with the information of how tools like 3D printing and laser cutter helped make this building possible, I leave you with a photo showing the scene. The smaller building on the other side of the siding is the second craftsman kit I ever made, starting life as Deckers Tar Soap produced
 by FOS, my version is named after a friend Tom Schwarz. For those of you that know of Deckers it provides a good gauge as to the size difference of the two structures. 

You will notice the back warehouse area is an add-on made of wood to an existing brick building much like early factories looked at the turn of the century. I wanted to show the difference of marketing (the front) and production (the back). (There is a non-printable joke that goes with that which is how I got the idea). Thanks for coming along on this journey, I hope you found it interesting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-220424192709-52565697.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-160424092134-525121502.jpeg)

Amazing , what a great build , the details are to die for.

Quote from: Janbouli on April 23, 2024, 11:37:12 AMAmazing , what a great build , the details are to die for.

Thanks Jan;

Hope everything is well on your side of the pond. It sure was a fun project to build, now time to think of what next.

Jim

Great job Jim, the building is a wonderful addition to the H&O RR.  8)

Hello Jim, what a wonderful job you have done here. I also very much like the wood structures out back. Congratulations. Can't wait to seee what you do next.

Quote from: GPdemayo on April 25, 2024, 07:43:25 AMGreat job Jim, the building is a wonderful addition to the H&O RR.  8)

Thank you kind sir, it was fun.

Jim

Quote from: nycjeff on April 26, 2024, 03:05:47 PMHello Jim, what a wonderful job you have done here. I also very much like the wood structures out back. Congratulations. Can't wait to seee what you do next.

Thanks Jeff;

I hope the explication of how lasers and 3D printers can add something you can't buy helped. The wood structure directly behind is a FOS Scale model kit and the tarven is actually started life as a blue and white partially broken plastic building I bought for $1.00 and used in a contest to make it look like a wood craftsman kit. I call it the Flying Kettle tavern. It too was a fun project. Here it is as I got it:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-280424203710-52587907.jpeg)

And how it looks currently on the layout:

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/785-280424203703-525851089.jpeg)

Jim,
 Glad that the Forum is back up and running and you are able to share this amazing structure with everyone. Your work is outstanding and with the grand opening banners too ! It's something to see what someone can do with the laser modeling equipment. From the walls, to the windows, to the interior, all I can say is....Well Done sir !
 Tommy