Time for a new thread. This one is the FOS Gorman Sign Company (https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/gorman-sign-co-ho-scale-kit). It was a gift from my better half this past X-Mas. :D
Let's open it up and see what's in the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112511-525251265.jpeg)
All kinds of interesting things. Bags of parts, strip wood, a sheet of colorful signs, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112512-52527664.jpeg)
In addition to the metal castings there are some really neat, well defined, 3D printed detail parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112513-52528390.jpeg)
I started cleaning up the 3D parts by removing the little 'legs' from them using a sprue cutter
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112514-525291566.jpeg)
I also used the sprue cutter to remove the doors and windows from the plastic sprues. I know some people prefer to paint them first and remove them later and that's fine too. This is just the way I like to do it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112515-52530639.jpeg)
There are a few 55-gallon oil drums that need to be nipped from their sprue as well but it's too thick for the sprue cutter I have so use an old pair of rail nippers to snip these.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112628-52531576.jpeg)
More in a moment.... ;D
The rail nippers also comes in handy for removing the metal castings from their sprues.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112629-525321148.jpeg)
Everything got cleaned up with small files, emery boards, or sanding sticks. Next, I removed the walls from the carrier sheets using a single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112630-525331887.jpeg)
I squared the edges of the walls using an emery board. The edges aren't quite square when they're laser cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112631-525341135.jpeg)
I also cut out the foundation from the matt board material. Pay close attention when doing the walls and these. This one, for example, looks like there are three pieces in the carrier. It's actually four pieces total. The entire sheet is a part as are the three pieces contained within.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112632-52535302.jpeg)
I also removed all the parts from the thinner sheet, again, using a single edged razor blade followed by an emery board or sanding stick to smooth the cuts. Same thing applies here, some folks prefer to paint them first and remove them later. I just like to do it the other way around. No harm, no foul. It's all good.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112739-52536690.jpeg)
Okay, first issue. Using a trick I learned here on the forum (as well as the hard way), I checked to make sure I had all the window/door castings required. I was one short.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112740-525371300.jpeg)
More in a moment.... ;)
Okay, I know I could have contacted the manufacturer and requested the missing part. Rather than wait, I pulled out a 290 piece window and door assortment from Tichy Train Group and found the part I needed. :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112741-52538189.jpeg)
I laid things out on a baking sheet with painters' tape that was taped sticky side up to take out to the garage to be painted. I primed it using the last little bit of Floquil Earth I found in my stash. Unfortunately I spilled some after thinning it and only had enough to paint one side. I flipped everything over and painted the other side with Floquil Depot Buff. :-[ Once it dried I fired up the airbrush one more time and used a variety of colors to paint some the individual stuff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112742-525391341.jpeg)
Time to brace the walls. A thin bead of Canopy glue was applied to 1/8" square strip wood first.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112742-525401726.jpeg)
Then I spread the glue over the surface of the strip wood with my fingertip (which I immediately wiped on a paper towel so I would transfer glue to the surface of the walls).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112838-52541498.jpeg)
Where the bracing material goes against the edge of the wall I tried my best to make sure it didn't extend beyond the edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112839-525421782.jpeg)
I weighed the wall down for a few minutes after applying the bracing. Just long enough for the glue to set a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112840-525431744.jpeg)
More in a moment.... ;D
I trimmed the excess bracing using a single edged razor blade. I should note, I broke out a new razor blade when I started this build. I also put a new blade in the handle of my X-Acto knife. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112841-52544540.jpeg)
One of the walls is made up of a clapboard section and a pressed paper section. I used the pressed paper section to gauge how long the bracing should be but didn't glue that piece on. It has a large sign that covers it and I didn't want to have to mask it off while I painted/weathered the clapboard wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424112841-525451059.jpeg)
Here it is after cutting the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113013-52546504.jpeg)
I lightly scrubbed, from top to bottom, the sign for that wall with some fine steel wool. Just a little to remove a little of the ink.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113014-525471476.jpeg)
Then I painted the back of the sign with an A&I mix. It'll seep through to the front but won't appear as dark when it dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113015-52548806.jpeg)
All of the wall sections then got painted with Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113016-525492385.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;D
I settle on a color called Thicket from Americana for the walls, doors, windows and trim. Normally I do two colors, but I liked the look of the pilot model, being a single color, and there are cases where a single color was used to keep things simple. I used a sponge to paint everything.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113017-525502113.jpeg)
Next I used Dove Gray and 'dry sponged' some of that onto the walls. Just to get a hint of the gray primer peeking out from underneath the Thicket. I followed that up using the same technique and Khaki.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113117-525512190.jpeg)
I painted the inside of the walls black in case (still undetermined) I opt to add lights later on. You can see in the foreground I've been painting the castings as I go along as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113118-52552290.jpeg)
Using a ponce wheel, I added nail holes where I thought the rows of nails should be. Along the edges, along the sides of doors and windows, or roughly every two feet otherwise.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113118-525531430.jpeg)
Using a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle I pried up some of the clapboards. Even broke one or two off. I didn't go crazy on this one though. The business is still in decent shape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113119-525541452.jpeg)
Another coat of the Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix. If my 'Dry sponging' technique got a little two heavy handed in spots that can be used to wash away, or blend, some of those spots so they aren't as obnoxious. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113120-525551491.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;D
Okay, next up is dry brushing everything (walls, doors, windows) with Folk Art Ivory White. Just enough to highlight things.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113203-525562374.jpeg)
For glazing I prefer to use MicroScale Industries Micro Krystal Klear. It's easy to apply to the openings and I rarely have any issues with air bubbles. Draw a thin coat across the opening and let it dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113203-525571570.jpeg)
While the windows are drying, I added the corner trim. All this, of course, was done following the templates in the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113204-52558982.jpeg)
Same as the bracing, I glued on a strip longer than needed and trimmed it to fit afterwards using the razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210424113205-525591566.jpeg)
And that's all for now. You're caught up to where I'm at. More when I get more done!
Thanks for following along!
Hooray! A build by Bob. I have this kit in the stash and will watch your progress closely.
Jeff
What a way to kick off retirement! The walls came out good. Do you have any warping problems, particularly with the black interior paint? I've had that happen a couple of times.
dave
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on April 27, 2024, 01:19:10 PMHooray! A build by Bob. I have this kit in the stash and will watch your progress closely.
Jeff
Jeff, happy to have you following along. I really liked this one when I first saw it and couldn't wait to build it. I'll let you know if I run into any major challenges. There are some minor ones, so far, but nothing major.
Quote from: deemery on April 27, 2024, 02:02:24 PMWhat a way to kick off retirement! The walls came out good. Do you have any warping problems, particularly with the black interior paint? I've had that happen a couple of times.
dave
You got that right, Dave!
I should have mentioned that I did add a little extra bracing to the walls. There was some minor warping in a few spots that will be hidden but I expect those will straighten out anyway, when the walls are joined together. Some of the walls are more susceptible to warping because the 'hidden' part of the walls contains openings that contained smaller wall sections. Between that, and the tab in slot construction, it would be hard for someone to kit bash this particular kit without cutting new walls entirely.
Great start, Bob.
Its looking very neat. A cool little kit, too. Good to see you start your retirement with such gusto!
Cheers, Mark.
Ah , Bob the Builder at work ( well hobby ) , thanks for sharing.
Retired for 1 day and you're already working at "Greg Speed".....atta boy Bob. 8)
Nice work, Bob.
Several of the 3D printed parts were also used in the Axle Road kit. The CAFE sign, for one. Greg was asking about the air conditioning unit I showed in one of my pics.
I'm gonna be watching this one....looks good so far
Terry
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 27, 2024, 04:06:20 PMGreat start, Bob.
Its looking very neat. A cool little kit, too. Good to see you start your retirement with such gusto!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark! I found this kit really interesting, and the 3D printed details put it over the top. I'll get back to painting some of those this afternoon. Still doesn't feel like retirement because it's the weekend. We'll see how it feels tomorrow. ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on April 27, 2024, 06:37:38 PMAh , Bob the Builder at work ( well hobby ) , thanks for sharing.
:) Thanks Jan! Glad to have you following along.
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 28, 2024, 08:59:06 AMRetired for 1 day and you're already working at "Greg Speed".....atta boy Bob. 8)
;D Now we both know there are two versions of "Greg Speed". The kind where you're at the throttle and the kind where you're at the workbench. I'll settle for somewhere in between the two. ;)
Quote from: Rollin on April 28, 2024, 10:16:38 AMNice work, Bob.
Several of the 3D printed parts were also used in the Axle Road kit. The CAFE sign, for one. Greg was asking about the air conditioning unit I showed in one of my pics.
Thanks Rollin! Yeah, there are two workbenches included that are part of a pack of four that can be purchased separately on Doug's website. The Cafe sign is a really neat detail as well. A little tricksy to paint, but neat none the less.
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on April 28, 2024, 10:47:20 AMI'm gonna be watching this one....looks good so far
Terry
Thanks Terry! Hopefully you'll get to see it, in person, before too long. I'm having fun with this one.
Update time....
For blinds I use a sheet of paper painted either beige (Depot Buff in this case) or green. I cut strips off the sheet of paper slightly wider than the windows and then lop of chunks with a square to create a blind.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130117-52590220.jpeg)
The blinds get glued to the back side of the wall, over the window openings, at various heights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130118-525921490.jpeg)
When done, they look like this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130119-5259329.jpeg)
Although the instructions don't mention lining the opening for the door on this wall, I opted to do so to give myself something to glue the door too. It's the same size as the opening so there wasn't much to hold it in place, aside from the 'rollers' at the top. By the way, I drilled a hole through those brackets to pass the wire thru. That's not mentioned in the instructions but gluing the wire to the wall and then the door overtop of the wire didn't seem like a good idea.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130119-525941015.jpeg)
Not perfect, but close enough. There's a roof that will go over this door that will hide some of the imperfections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130120-52595552.jpeg)
I noticed the front wall for the dormer was a wee bit shorter than the sidewalls. Maybe one clapboard short. This opening would have been hidden by trim pieces, but I opted to address it none the less.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130206-525961708.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Here's the wall that the dormer front wall was included with. The opening, here, will be hidden by an extension. No harm in removing another board from the opening and gluing it to the top of the dormer wall so that's what I did.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130207-52597528.jpeg)
Finally time to start gluing the walls together. I pretty much ignore the instructions at this point and just had at it in the order that made the most sense to me. I tried my best to keep everything square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130207-52598213.jpeg)
Ah, the joys of tab in slot construction. When I glued these walls together, they were anything but square! I remedied this by removing the side wall, cutting off the 'tab' and the gluing it back in place squared. The offending 'slot', fortunately for me, was hidden inside the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130208-525991572.jpeg)
Now it's starting to look like something.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130209-526001482.jpeg)
The foundation for the structure is comprised of several pieces. I painted these with a cool concrete color and then applied a number of different shades of Pan Pastels (browns, grays, etc.). Then I sealed them with Dullcoat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130252-52601107.jpeg)
I prepared the 'roofing' material by spraying one side (the unlined side) with rattle can black. I had a separate sheet from a previous kit that I sprayed with rattle can gray. I'd prefer to use Stoney Creek roofing paper, but my stash is running low and that's no longer available. :( Anyway, after painting one side I cut the strips out using the lines on the other side of the paper as a guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130253-526022083.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the top of the roof cards. I should note that the edge, and underside, of the roof cards were painted with the same wall/trim color as the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130253-526031078.jpeg)
I trimmed the transfer tape to fit after applying it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130254-526042289.jpeg)
When you peel away the backing of the transfer tape you're left with a sticky surface on the roof card. Perfect for adding the roofing paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130255-52605121.jpeg)
Adding first row of roofing paper I turn the roof upside down to ensure I have a little overhand on the end and bottom edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130338-52606448.jpeg)
The big thing is to keep the rows level as you work your way up with just a little overlap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130339-52607194.jpeg)
Okay, I told myself I wasn't going to bother lighting this structure up. I figured it's okay to have a business where the employees actually go home at night and the place is dark. But I gave in. I started by gather the materials I'd need to light this one up. Six LED's total (4 3mm and 2 micro LED's), 2 current limiters, wire, etc. I began by constructing two goose neck lamps for over the doors. I took some .018" OD steel tubing and scored a piece, roughly 1 inch from the end, by rolling it under a razor blade. I wasn't trying to cut through it. Just score it enough so i could snap the piece off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130340-526081093.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Success. It snapped off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130341-526092274.jpeg)
I smoothed off the end of the tubing with an emery board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130341-526101658.jpeg)
There are several nerve-wracking steps involved in making these goose neck lamps. I had a batch of micro LED's prewired already. Soldering leads onto these things requires a steady hand, a 10X Optivisor and a shot of Irish Whiskey. So, the next step is feeding the two wires thru the steel tubing. That can be quite a challenge, but it actually went pretty well this time. Then I slip a Tichy lamp shade over the wire and the tubing. I have a bunch of these primed and the reflector part pre-painted white. I'll paint the rest after the lamps are installed in the structure. The final step is forming the goose neck shape. This one almost always bites me. You have to make a series of very small bends. Anything too sharp will crush the tubing and pinch the wires. Either I'm getting better at this, or I simply got lucky this time around because both turned out okay and the lights still worked when I was done! 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130429-526111833.jpeg)
Just some more bending.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130430-526121835.jpeg)
I tested them out and, though you can't really see it here, they both worked. Whew!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130431-526132208.jpeg)
I put a little bit of 5-minute epoxy on the end where the LED and lampshade are, to prevent the LED pads from touching the steel tubing and shorting out. It also holds the lampshade in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130431-52614958.jpeg)
More in a moment... :P
For the interior lights I constructed a few circuits on some black, photo mounting, board. It occurred to me to try something new (for me) this time around. I drilled 1/8" holes in the corners so I could mount these using 1/8" dowels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130432-52615502.jpeg)
I ended up with this contraption, which I can drop in from the top of the building before the rood cards are installed. The dowels let me adjust the second floor to the proper height.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130459-526161941.jpeg)
With everything installed and connected I attached a power supply and, eureka, it worked!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-090524130500-526171427.jpeg)
That's all for today. Back the workbench!
Thanks for following along!
Just saw your new build here. Retirement must agree with you because your already set up and moving right along.
Really like the coloring on this one. And your usual neat and careful planning of things.
Nice tutorial as always.
Jerry
A little late to the party but would painting the black inside with an oil base paint reduce the warping? Bob
Clever idea for the adjustable lighting rack!
dave
I agree, neat idea! Great work and looking forward to more now that you have reached the seven days of Saturday stage of life.
Jim
Looking good Bob..... 8)
Quote from: Jerry on May 10, 2024, 12:03:57 AMJust saw your new build here. Retirement must agree with you because your already set up and moving right along.
Really like the coloring on this one. And your usual neat and careful planning of things.
Nice tutorial as always.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! Happy to have you following along. I'm really pleased with how this one is working out. It's a neat little kit with some wonderful details.
Quote from: oldiron on May 10, 2024, 08:13:00 AMA little late to the party but would painting the black inside with an oil base paint reduce the warping? Bob
That might help but most of the warping seems to occur when the Hunterline Weathering Mix is applied. That's pretty thin and the wood just sucks it up. Even when painted. Some of the walls, in this kit, are more susceptible to warping because of all the openings they have due to other parts being cut in the non-viewable area. Bracing solves most of the issues and the final construction takes care of the rest.
Thanks for following along!
Quote from: deemery on May 10, 2024, 08:49:59 AMClever idea for the adjustable lighting rack!
dave
Thanks Dave! I wish I would have thought of this a long time ago. It saved me time and made the construction a lot easier.
Quote from: Jim Donovan on May 10, 2024, 09:01:07 AMI agree, neat idea! Great work and looking forward to more now that you have reached the seven days of Saturday stage of life.
Jim
Thanks Jim! I'm enjoying the seven days of Saturday stage for sure. ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 10, 2024, 09:16:57 AMLooking good Bob..... 8)
Thanks Butty! This is a fun one. Hope to be able to bring it down to Tom's one of these days for show and tell.
Hello Bob, I can see that retirement agrees with you. You're doing your usual fine job with this build. Everything looks good and I have no idea how you can bend that small diameter tubing with the wires inside and not damage the wires.
Quote from: nycjeff on May 11, 2024, 07:00:45 PMHello Bob, I can see that retirement agrees with you. You're doing your usual fine job with this build. Everything looks good and I have no idea how you can bend that small diameter tubing with the wires inside and not damage the wires.
Hi Jeff. Yeah, bending that tubing without pinching the wires is a real trick. I can't tell you how many I've ruined that way. It takes a lot of practice, patience and luck to get one that works and looks decent. Thanks for following along!
Bob,
Happy Retirement !
Great way to kick it off. Neat structure by FOS. Not on the que shelf here but a neat kit to show off your modeling skills. Will pull up a chair...
Tommy
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 14, 2024, 08:46:22 PMBob,
Happy Retirement !
Great way to kick it off. Neat structure by FOS. Not on the que shelf here but a neat kit to show off your modeling skills. Will pull up a chair...
Tommy
Thanks for following along Tommy! Yes, I liked this one from the moment I first saw it.
Bob, have you tried one of these Kadee coupler adjust tools to try bending the tubing?
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 18, 2024, 05:32:40 PMBob, have you tried one of these Kadee coupler adjust tools to try bending the tubing?
Jeff
Good thought and yes, I did. It didn't work like I had hoped it would. It still caused pinch points in the tubing. I have a small needle nose type pliers where both sides are round (like the one side of the Kadee Coupler tool). I've had some success using that and making a series or very small bends. I just have to remember to be patient, go slow, and not make any of the bends too sharp.
Bob, I wonder if you can find a soft (copper) wire that you could feed into the tubing, and then try to bend with the tubing filled with that soft wire?
dave
I wonder how this Fasttracks rail bender would work
https://handlaidtrack.com/product/tl-0004/
Kind of pricey tho 89.00
Terry
Quote from: deemery on May 19, 2024, 10:50:36 AMBob, I wonder if you can find a soft (copper) wire that you could feed into the tubing, and then try to bend with the tubing filled with that soft wire?
dave
Good thought but it's tough enough to feed the two leads from the LED thru the tubing, prior to bending it. I doubt I could anything else thru there. This stuff is tiny. :o
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on May 19, 2024, 08:54:24 PMI wonder how this Fasttracks rail bender would work
https://handlaidtrack.com/product/tl-0004/
Kind of pricey tho 89.00
Terry
That's a good thought Terry but it wouldn't make bends small enough for a gooseneck lamp in HO Scale. It's just a bit too big. ;)
Time for an update on this one.
I figured out where the dormer was going to be placed on the main roof card, removed the 3M Transfer tape (peeled off the backing and then rubbed the sticky stuff off with my finger) and cut out an opening so the light would be visible in the window. The instructions don't really give any specifics as to the placement of the dormer, so I used the photos and my judgement as a guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111111-52659432.jpeg)
I made the roof removeable (though I'd later glue it on anyway) by cutting out some triangles that matched the walls. I glued this in position, so they'd butt up against the inside of the walls to properly align the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111112-526601176.jpeg)
The roof assembly fit pretty well. I did glue end up gluing it down to help prevent light leaks on the section that extends below the dormer. It'll be easy to slip a knife blade in there to break the bond so the roof can be removed if access is needed to repair the lighting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111112-52661689.jpeg)
Next, I weathered the roof cards by brushing them with Pan Pastels. The only downside to this was I had both black and gray strips on the main roof and, when I was finished, you can barely see the difference in the underlying colors. Oh well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111113-52662479.jpeg)
I added some trim to the top edge of the walls. I found these tiny cloth pins in Hobby Lobby which make great little clamps for something like this. They don't crush the wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111114-526631682.jpeg)
I found a chunk of Gator Foam (actually it was an old poster from a conference at work) and cut out a piece for a base and rattle canned on side flat black. I figured out the minimum size I'd need by laying out the structure and covered work area roof card and the fence.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111206-526641892.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
I used a strip of painters tape to mask off where the dirt portion of the diorama (behind the building and fence) would be and then spread Elmers glue over the area to be 'paved'.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111207-52665322.jpeg)
I smeared the glue around to get a thin layer. This step probably isn't even necessary but it's just something I've always done.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111208-526661207.jpeg)
First attempt at paving the lot was done using some Wallboard Joint Compound. Problem was I've had this sitting in the garage for a long, long time (previously opened and used) and it was no longer pliable enough to spread a nice thin layer. Total failure. I simply scrapped it off and started over. This time I used some spackle. That too, was also finely aged and not very easy to spread but it worked better that the Wallboard Joint Compound I had. I got one layer down. After it dried, I sanded it, but it needed another layer. This time I went to Home Depot and bought a new container of Spackle and it went on much better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111209-52667576.jpeg)
While the spackle was drying, I went ahead and started weather some of the castings and cut out letters for signs using a sponge and some burnt sienna. Dry sponging it on just to get hints of rust here and there.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111210-52668939.jpeg)
I decide to construct the fence. The fencing material I had previously airbrushed with Floquil Old Silver and rusted up with the sponge as noted in the previous picture. I glued the frames to the fencing material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111301-526691079.jpeg)
After the glued dried it was easy to trim the fencing with a pair of micro shears.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111301-5267046.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Next, I added the supports for the fence and the sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111303-526711946.jpeg)
I tried to make sure they remained square while the glue set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111303-52672390.jpeg)
Here's the finished fence/sign. I forgot to nip off the connectors between the while letters and the S is a little out of line. I'll have to go back and fix that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111304-526731751.jpeg)
There are a lot of signs included and it took a while to cut them all out. The instructions say to shade the back with a pencil rather than anything moist/wet else it will bleed through. I did that but don't particularly like the effect. But you won't see much of the back anyway, so I left them as is.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111332-526741764.jpeg)
Back to the paved area of the base. I scribed lines in every 10 feet and added a few cracks using and X-Acto knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010624111333-52675805.jpeg)
And that's all for today's update. Hope to wrap this one up soon. Thanks for following along!
Looks great so far, Bob. So many signs. Oh, wait, it IS a sign company. ;D
Jeff
Coming along nicely, Bob....easy to follow sbs
Terry
Bob,
I've been following along but haven't posted my thoughts. Excellent build as always including the SBS and your reasoning for why you did some of it. Very well done and the building color seems to go with the signs.
Have a great vacation and a safe one.
Tom
Bob I haven't been keeping up with one. Great work as usual. And your tutorial are some of the best.
Jerry
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 01, 2024, 05:18:18 PMLooks great so far, Bob. So many signs. Oh, wait, it IS a sign company. ;D
Jeff
Yes, Jeff, there are a LOT of signs! Thanks for following along!
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on June 01, 2024, 08:56:12 PMComing along nicely, Bob....easy to follow sbs
Terry
Thanks Terry! Wrapping this one up and moving on to something new (and different) shorty. I hope to be able to show it to you soon.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 02, 2024, 07:48:45 AMBob,
I've been following along but haven't posted my thoughts. Excellent build as always including the SBS and your reasoning for why you did some of it. Very well done and the building color seems to go with the signs.
Have a great vacation and a safe one.
Tom
Thanks Tom! This is a fun little kit. Loads of details. We're safely back from vacation and I'm ready for my next workbench adventure.
Quote from: Jerry on June 02, 2024, 09:42:04 AMBob I haven't been keeping up with one. Great work as usual. And your tutorial are some of the best.
Jerry
Hi Jerry! Thanks for the kind words. Glad to have checking in.
Okay, time to wrap this one up. Only one construction photo and then the final build pictures. Most of the 'finishing' stuff was just gluing all the details in place. Nothing photo worthy. After I scribed the joints/cracks in the concrete I painted using FolkArt Terra Cotta 7028 Cool Concrete followed by a wash of Americana Khaki Tan. I was actually quite pleased with the effect. I don't have a set formula I use for concrete. I'm always messing around trying different paints/chalks/stains/washes until I get something that looks right to me. After I got the color to a point that I was happy with it I tried (for the first time for me) applying Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (Black) to the joints/cracks. You can see in the photo it bled out from the joints and didn't look good. So here I am taking a brush dipped in plain old Rubbing Alcohol (90%) and scrubbing the surface to loosen up the paint and blend the black into it. It worked and left me with a concrete sort of color that has some varying shades throughout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104239-52761663.jpeg)
Okay, now for the final photos!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104240-527621211.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104241-527631062.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104242-527641881.jpeg)
A few more in a moment... :D
Last of the pictures....
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104243-527651314.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104324-527662076.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104325-527672000.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190624104325-527681775.jpeg)
I really enjoyed building this little kit. Other than a 'slot' being cut in the wrong place (easy fix for that - eliminate the 'tab') I had no issues with it. Enough strip wood to get the job done. I didn't have to dig into my stash. Lots of great details. The 3D printed stuff is wonderful.
Thanks for following alone!
Bob... thanks for your narrative on the concrete coloring...it's not only helpful to what works but what doesn't work as well
A great build...well done
Terry
Bob,
Another masterful build from start to finish.
Tom
Another beautiful build Bob.
Jerry
Hello Bob, I can see that retirement is agreeing with you, what a great job on that FOS kit.
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on June 19, 2024, 11:43:26 AMBob... thanks for your narrative on the concrete coloring...it's not only helpful to what works but what doesn't work as well
A great build...well done
Terry
Thanks Terry! I agree, it helps to show what doesn't work and the recovery steps as well. I had a blast with this one.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 19, 2024, 03:18:18 PMBob,
Another masterful build from start to finish.
Tom
Thanks Tom! I'll bring it along for show and tell one of these days.
Quote from: Jerry on June 20, 2024, 12:02:56 AMAnother beautiful build Bob.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! I hope I can carve out a home for it on the, yet to be built, layout.
Quote from: nycjeff on June 20, 2024, 08:09:16 AMHello Bob, I can see that retirement is agreeing with you, what a great job on that FOS kit.
Retirement is absolutely agreeing with me Jeff! I love not caring what day of the week it is. Thanks for the kind words. A lot of the credit here goes to a well designed kit from FOS.
Another beautiful job Bob..... 8)
Bob,
You make is look so easy. Your modeling is top-notch. Done well, very well indeed.
Tommy
Neat kit, Bob.
This came out very well.
Cheers, Mark.
That turned out great, Bob. Per usual. I'll review this build again if and when I ever get my kit started.
Jeff
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 20, 2024, 10:53:53 AMAnother beautiful job Bob..... 8)
Thanks Greg! This was a fun one. Now it's time for something more nefarious.
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on June 20, 2024, 01:11:40 PMBob,
You make is look so easy. Your modeling is top-notch. Done well, very well indeed.
Tommy
Thank you, Tommy! It certainly helps that it was a great kit design from FOS.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on June 20, 2024, 04:54:44 PMNeat kit, Bob.
This came out very well.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark! I suppose this structure could easily be repurposed for a multitude of different businesses but then the builder would have to set aside all those neat signs and details.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 21, 2024, 02:23:23 PMThat turned out great, Bob. Per usual. I'll review this build again if and when I ever get my kit started.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff! I'm looking forward to seeing this one on the empire when you get around to it. It'll look great there.
Bob,
After seeing this beauty up close and personal last Saturday, I must say it looks very professionally built. Oh wait, it was professionally built by the Master Builder Reading Bob.
Fantastic build and the lights looked very natural.
Tom
What Tom said..... 8)