So here goes..................
First up I needed to check I have all the parts. The kit comes with wall plans for the buildings. The walls are not all in one bag, the same bag or on one sheet. Parts of the buildings have different siding so I have identified all the walls and marked them with their part number on the reverse and also checked off the plans as I went. Two of the buildings are made from card or lazer board.
I will probably start with the support buildings first as I am very interested how much "real estate" these will take up on my module.
Continuing...........I have braced all the walls and glued together the beginning of the Mansard roof on the main building. Some of the walls on the sailmakers have to be joined together and it is worth taking your time by studying the pictures to get the walls the correct way around.
I have braced the walls for the other two larger buildings and have taken the trouble to match up the windows supplied with the kit.
I have placed the braced walls and windows for the three larger buildings into three carcboard trays to aid locating parts during construction.
Continuing...........
The assembly of Baroody Fresnel Glass..........
Here are all the walls braced ready for staining with alcohol and ink before painting..................
I have stuck all the plastic windows for this structure to double sided tape inside a cardboard tray prior to spraying with primer white paint.
The three darker larger windows on the top left were the missing windows from wall B5!
I have used the sponge method suggested by Doug F. Using a small sponge I dabbed sploshs of diluted white acrylic paint onto the walls. Once dry they will look a lot whiter than they do now. Only one wall B6 is a little warped. I have dry fitted this into the slots meant for it in wall B3.
While this is drying I will paint the trim pieces for the walls and front door area white.
Here are the walls almost dry. Next I will start distressing them by running a blade along them. Then I will add board lengths and nail holes.
The trim has been painted. I used the sponge to add some antique white to the white windows. Next I will glaze the windows with canopy glue.
Here are the walls which have dried overnight. I will need to distress them by running a blade along each board.
Next up glazing the windows with Canopy Glue.
I have dunked the white painted trim for the walls into a tank of alcohol and ink. My tank is makeshift and is the cover off an old printer cartridge. Never throw anything away as it might come in handy. After their dunk I let the wood dry on newspaper and I poured the A&I back into it's bottle so it did not evaporate.
Here are the lazer board doors. I have glued them together with white glue. Warning: make sure the two halves of the door are the right way up - wonder how I know that! I am going to leave them their natural lazer burnt selves as they look good without painting them.
Nice looking build so far. I like the A/I dispenser. I'll be watching and thanks for sharing. :) :) :) :) :) :)
Thanks Bart.
The signage for Execution Rocks comes on semi-gloss coated paper. I always photcopy the signs in kits as it is a good safeguard just in case you spoil the sign in the weathering process. Also I prefer to work with matt paper and by photocopying the colours tend to become a little duller.
Here you can see the difference - the lower set of signs are the originals.
I have added a little grain to the walls by scribing horizontal lines with a blade. Also I have added board ends with the nail holes to a few boards. I will only do a maximum of four boards per wall otherwise it will get too busy.
I have cut out the sign and aplied a thick coat of white glue.
Once the sign is affixed to the wall I brush on a coat of A&I and let it dry. Once dry I scribe in the boards using the reverse side (dull) of a blade. Afterwards I distress the sign with sandpaper to age it.
So glad you're here. This is the thread I've been waiting for. I wanted to cheer you on but I can't login to the other place.
Great build, mate!
John
I have added the windows which are now dry to the walls. Here is an overview of the parts before I start gluing the structure together.
The front wall needs trim cut to fit around the main doors.
Thanks for watching John.
Here is the sign on the rear of the building. I have distressed this with some sandpaper and then given it a brush of A&I. It looks old and as if it was painted on the building rather than just a paper sign.
Here are the doors for the front of the building. Tip I just apply a small amount of "alphatic glue" to the rear of each part with a toothpick before attaching this to a sheet of acrylic. If there is too much glue and it smudges a pane, I just pick up the part and reapply it to a fresh area on the sheet. I then cut out the part from the acrylic sheet - perfect everytime.
Here is the front of the building with the doors fitted. FOS suggest leaving them slightly open. I have done this on the smaller door as it is too narrow for the door frame and there would be gap if it were closed!
Here are the parts for the clerestory. Next up I painted the edge of the roofing cards with my trim colour - white.
Then I used double sided tape to add strips of rolled roofing.
The kit uses the "corrugated" metal strips from Northeastern. I still like the original Campbell's metal strips, but I grant you they are lot more work.
I sprayed the strips with a primer grey and then affixed them to the smaller roof using double sided tape.
Almost there. A small pulley should be fitted above the attic door. I will leave this until later as it is fragile and may suffer some damage.
Next up the second building Millatt's Coffee Shop................
First the black matboard is glued over the lazerboard tiled front and then the windows are added........... I have also located the sign and cut it out for later.
Then I sprayed a white primer over the front wall, rear door and window. Next up I will paint the wall with an acrylic paint.............
Unfortunately I do not have the green suggested for the kit - I have used "Spearmint" instead.......
Continuing..... I covered the rear wall with double sided tape and proceeded to cover it with stained 2x10's.
Next I covered the roof with rolled roofing using the double sided tape.
Here are the three main elements of the little structure.
Continuing........... I have added wood supports to the rear of both walls, these will support the roof which has been covered with rolled roofing.
I have made wire supports for the front awning from staples..........
Here are the two finished structures standing together................next up the third building........
Continuing with Execution Rocks we come to the third building - McGloin's Groceries..........
Once again I brush A&I onto the walls before sponge painting them with Antique White. Next I need to prime the windows and doors before finding an orange paint as suggested by Fos.
I found some MEC Orange for the trim!
The lower front wall is made up of layers of lazerboard and matboard..........
The front piece is built up in several layers of lazerboard............and here is the top half to show how it goes together. I will spray the bottom half primer white before painting it MEC Orange.
Then I added corner trim to the walls.
Here are the main elements of the structure prior to gluing together. I have cut out the wall sign and glued it to the small side wall.
Next I glazed the windows bar the big shop window with Canopy Glue. The front window was glazed with acetate and the signage was affixed behind. This hides the empty interior.
The roof card was painted with the trim colour - orange. Once again rolled roofing affixed by double sided tape was used on the roof.
Then the structure was glued together.........
Hi Mike:
Looks great so far.
Karl
Here is the completed building with the other two..........
I decided to skip the last building in the row - "Bennet Nautical Traders" - for the moment. This building is covered in Northeastern corrugated sheets made from wood. To my mind these look a little too thick and I want to experiment with the old Campbell's metal siding first..........
So to the big one - "Peckham Sail Makers" - I have located I hope all the windows and affixed them to my cardboard painting tray and then sprayed them primer white.
Next I located all the walls and braced them...........
Thanks Karl I appreciate it.
Continuing....
Here are the glazed windows and the walls suitably treated with Alcohol & Ink......... I glazed the windows with Canopy Glue - 606 panes on 66 windows in 22 minutes......
Next I sprayed the lazer board doors primer white and made them up..........
Continuing.......... I painted the main walls of Peckham's with an acrylic paint by Liquitex - Naphithol Crimson........... Most of the painting was done by sponging on a wash of this colour.
I then aged the walls by scribing horizontal lines along each board, adding nail holes and generally distressing the walls. I added light washes of grey paint using a sponge before dry brushing with antique white paint.
Mike,
I'm happy you are here and sharing the thread. It just got to hard to check in on the other forum, even for me!
Great build and I'm enjoying the thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: madharry on August 09, 2014, 07:49:17 AMThis building is covered in Northeastern corrugated sheets made from wood. To my mind these look a little too thick and I want to experiment with the old Campbell's metal siding first..........
Great thread Mike! I've picked up a few new tips already.
I agree with your observations on the corrugated siding material. The Northeastern is much easier to work with but I don't care for the thickness. It becomes very apparent where pieces overlap.
I have this one waiting in the wings thanks to a multi-kit trade that also involved a build to be named later. ;D
Mike
Great looking build! I will be following along with great interest. Thanks for sharing the build.
Great thread & build Mike.....I'm glad to see you over here from the "other" forum!
Thanks Tom, Bob, John and Greg for your kind words gentlemen.
In order to age my windows somewhat I mixed up a thin wash of black acrylic paint and sponged this onto the frames...
I then added signs as per the instructions to the main building. Checking the sheet of signs (bottom picture) I noticed there was no black rectangular wall sign supplied with the kit as shown in the left photo of the model above the awning. So I copied the smaller white sign and applied this to the wall instead. This wall would be blank otherwise............
The signs were glued to the walls with Elmer's white glue. I then scribed in the boards using the reverse of my blade. Afterwards I gave the signs a wash of A&I and then distressed them further by carefully rubbing them with fine sandpaper..........
Continuing.............. When applying the large horizontal signs I found they were too tall inasmuch as the windows would cover up part of the lettering. I think it is nicer for the sign to be balanced between the windows and subsequently I chose to enlarge the openings of the middle set of windows by carefully cutting out the frames at the bottom with my blade. Another way to do this would be to reduce the height of the black sign before affixing it to the wall...........
Continuing........... Here are the walls and signs ready for the next stage. With all the enlarging of the windows previously I decided to add a larger door to the bottom of one of the buildings by just removing a little of the wood until it fitted.............
Deviating slightly I decided to attach the three earlier constructed buildings together. I decided to add some 20x20 bracing to the internal walls of Millatt's Coffee to give me more gluing surface..........
Here are the main walls finished ready for gluing together. They go together in a triangular shape so the next stage could be fun!
Continuing.......... First up is adding the two walls at each end of the building which are easy as they are at 90 degrees..
Continuing............ Here the two end walls have been added. FOS suggest gluing the floor chipboard template between the walls with a hot glue gun.
I decided to glue a horizontal beam along the straight back inside wall in order to support this template instead. My pencil indicates where I have glued the beam. This will give a solid surface to which can be glued the floor template.
Continuing.............Here you can see the template which helps to achieve the angle in the walls which I have glued to my beam.
The walls need to angled by rubbing with an emery board so they go together neatly.
Next I added the two tower walls. FOS say to brace both walls on one side only. You need do this only to one wall. As the second wall does not need any bracing as it uses the bracing on the walls either side of it.
Then the tower windows need to be added using Canopy Glue.
Continuing.... I made up the sub roof from the lazer cut chipboard supplied. Here it is sitting on the walls............ next I made up the frieze boards which sit on top of he tower windows. I have cut my overlong corner posts and I will level them carefully with a little rub of emery board.
The tower roof is next. It is made up of three pieces of different sizes. I glued them together and then painted the edge white.
Here is a picture of the building so far while I am planning the mansard roofing.
Continuing.......... The main roof needs to be covered in rolled roofing.
First I used a emery board to smooth down the three prominent tabs on the roof.
Then I covered the roof with double sided tape.
Next I started covering the roof with strips of rolled roofing.
Continuing........
I have covered the flat roof with rolled roofing cut to differing lengths. Then I have used a sharp pin and rule to simulate nail holes.
Mike
Next I weathered the roof by dry brushing it with white paint. I then brushed on some grey chalk before sploshing on some A&I.
The roof is on a building right by the coast so it should be cruddy and covered in seabird poop.............
Mike
Adding shingles to the four mansard roof sides is next.
I have found the instructions a little hazy here. They state "add the four mansard sides, test fit before gluing, do not worry about gaps as they will be covered by roofing - glue them in place".
I have decided to try a different approach. I have used sellotape to affix the four mansard sides together and I intend shingling these flat on the workbench before gluing the complete assembly to the roof............wish me luck!
Mike
Quote from: madharry on August 09, 2014, 12:50:56 PM
Adding shingles to the four mansard roof sides is next.
I have found the instructions a little hazy here. They state "add the four mansard sides, test fit before gluing, do not worry about gaps as they will be covered by roofing - glue them in place".
I have decided to try a different approach. I have used sellotape to affix the four mansard sides together and I intend shingling these flat on the workbench before gluing the complete assembly to the roof............wish me luck!
Mike
Mike - this will be fun to watch - Good luck!
Hi Mike:
Looks like you are moving right along. Does this have a place on your layout? If so don't forget to post some photos OK.
Karl
Mike,
Looks like it's coming together very nicely. Thanks for all the photos.
Tom ;D
Thanks John, the roof is almost finished - update pictures soon.
Mike
Thanks for your comments Karl, I'm planning to put this together with some other kits on a small module as a mini-show layout.
Mike
Thanks for following along Tom. I hope to get a lot more done this coming weekend!
Mike ;)
The main roof is now shingled and next up is the completion of the tower roof.
Mike
I started by gluing the first two (of four) gable ends to the top of the tower cap.
Next...........I added a brace of wood between the walls and tried dry fitting the roof between the walls. However I think I may have to cut down the roof in order to fit the two remaining gable ends which are to be glued where my thumb and finger are!!!
Mike
Continuing... I decided to modify the roof to fit.
Then I strayed from the instructions and decided to shingle the roofs before gluing them to the gables. I used double sided tape.
Continuing............ before I started shingling I painted the edges of the roofs white. Once I had finished the larger roof I glued it between the gables before shingling the smaller roofs in the same way. I think this is an easier method than gluing the roofs down first and then shingling them in situ........
Mike
Mike
I'm really enjoying the thread.
Thanks for following John.
Mike :)
Continuing......... I finished tiling the small roof. I laid the tiles overlong on the double sided tape and then trimmed with a blade.
Afterwards I glued this to the assembly.
I then added the trim pieces to the gables after painting them white. I also added two pieces of paper to form a ridge cap.
The instructions called for this all to be done with the cap glued to the building. I found this way easier.
Mike Carter
Continuing...
These are the parts for the ten dormers.........I have painted and glazed the windows and painted the walls.
I might stray from the instructiions which suggest gluing each dormer to the main roof before tiling the ten individual dormer roofs........ (https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kitforums.com%2Fimages%2Fsmilies%2Ficon_question.gif&hash=1139301c71cd4d2945ee8e763c333cd0356a6073) (https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kitforums.com%2Fimages%2Fsmilies%2Ficon_question.gif&hash=1139301c71cd4d2945ee8e763c333cd0356a6073)
Mike
I am enjoying watch you progress with this project. although I have no plans to build it, I am learning various techniques from you. Thanks. Jim
Thanks Jim I appreciate you following along.
Mike
Continuing.............
TIP when separating the dormer fronts from their carrier sheet it is a good idea to add the windows first in order to give the part some solidity. Otherwise it is easy for the part to break as you are cutting them out. How do I know that?
Mike :-[
Hi Mike:
Sounds like fun with those dormers. The best dormers I ever saw were by Microscale Models. They were 1 piece cast plaster. You just added the roof.
Karl 5
Karl
That's cheating Karl, only kidding..............
Continuing.....
Here are the parts separated from the carrier sheets. Even with my precautions I broke two window fronts. There is a spare in the kit and some spare sides as well but if you break too many..............
I will paint the edges of the roofs white next.
Mike
Hi Mike:
Can't you glue them back together if they break?
Karl
Yes you can for the fronts but the sides are so small you would probably need to cut from new stock, hence the spares supplied by Fos.
Mike
Continuing............... I cut sideposts for the front walls. These were cut overlong and then trimmed back. Afterwards I aged the walls slightly by adding grain to the walls by scribing them horizontally with a blade.
Then the side walls were added.
Mike
Mike...
On the cross grained dormer fronts that are so fragile........ consider this.
When you first start handling them put them face down on a work surface and pull a small amount of yellow wood worker's glue across the back. Not a lot. then hold them down with plastic wrap or tin foil and weight them to stop any curing. The glue will kick off as there is enough air in the wood. An hour or two is enough.
Super glue will work also and not have a curl problem. Once you commit to super glue in this area everything that will attach to it must also have super glue. You can move away from it on another adjoining surface.
That will give the wood enough body to be able to handle them into a larger structure.
see ya
Bob
Great info Bob, thanks I've got around the problem.
Anyone building this kit needs to be aware of the fragile nature of these parts.
Mike ;)
Continuing..............
To the roofs. I've decided to shingle the roofs before I glue the dormers to the building. I think this will give me more control and hopefully make a better job of it.
I've added double sided tape to the roofs in readiness for shingling.
Mike
Roofs are shingled!!!
Mike
Progress so far with dormers and tower roof fitted..............
Mike
Next up I decided to finish the entrance area at the bottom of the tower. The entrance door opening I had braced on both sides but it only needs bracing on the side which fits into the P5 wall. I removed the extra bracing and broke the part and had to repair it. Fortunately it does not show.
I had to cut out a little piece of wall P5 in order to fit around my earlier bracing piece. No problem as it does not show.
I glazed the top windows on the door entrance with Canopy Glue. I also used Canopy Glue to glue the doors together on a piece of acetate. Once dry I cut the glazed doors out and glued them into the door frame.
To complete the construction I added L28 the ceiling piece.
Mike Carter
Continuing... I prepared the walls for the "little bump outs" as Fos describes them - the boiler annex and other addition.
The walls were braced and corner trim applied. As always I glue the trim on extra long and then cut it back and finally use a fine emery board to fine tune it.
Mike
Continuing...
Next I fitted a 2x10 parapet cap atop the mansard roof sections. Under the 2x10's I added 2x4 trim pieces to the top of the shingles. I cut the pieces overlong and them measured a piece to fit between the angles.
Mike
I fitted the little piece at the end of the building...........
Mike
Continuing..........
Here are the annex walls and the boiler house walls glued to the main building.
The roofs shown are to be covered in double sided tape and then rolled roofing is to be applied........
Mike
Continuing...........
The roofs suitably covered in rolled roofing are added.......
Mike
Continuing............
The Hoist Loft is built from card covered in 2x10's board by board. I used double sided tape to secure the planks which had been weathered in A&I first. These were then dry-brushed with white paint. I decided to use a grey tar paper for the roof as a contrast to the other roofs. I will add the hoist pulley casting above the door later.
Mike Carter
Continuing....
Next up the roof top shed. The parts of the square shed are to be covered in rolled roofing and battens. The triangular pieces are for the stair access and are to be covered in board by board 10x2's.
Continuing......... I decided to paint the shed flat black to save covering it with rolled roofing paper. The stair access parts are covered in double sided tape and I have painted the edges of the roofs black..........
Mike
Continuing.. the shed and the stair access are complete now I have to cover the shed roof in rolled roofing.
Continuing.... When constructing the stairwell I added an extra piece of bracing inside otherwise I found the structure was a little fragile.
Continuing.... here are the completed shed and stair access ready for some weathering before being placed on the roof of Peckham's Sail.
Mike
Here is the little shed completed. I will not fit it to the main roof yet as I have to decide where the roof sign will go first.
Next up the staircase and landings for the side of the building. These are made from lazerboard and need to be coloured black. I find instead of paint a black felt tip marker works better for me on this material.
Mike
Continuing...................
At this stage the instructions call for a foundation to be fitted to the entire building. I had less wood than I needed in the kit and while I did not have the right size in my scrap box I carefully trimmed down some wood to fit. The footprint of the building requires a scale 280 ft. so I had to find an extra scale 40 ft. No big deal!
I painted the foundation a concrete colour.
Mike
Continuing............
So I was trying to figure out where the staircase went and more importantly why the third landing did NOT line up with the third door. It was not even close!
Normally it is easy to know which way is up on a clapboard wall. But the lower walls on the structure are scribed walls and look the same either way.
So guess what I glued wall P2 upside down!
So it is a good job I only use wood glue to assemble my walls and not CA. I decided to carefully unassemble the wall and start again. Time for a beer I think!
Mike (https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kitforums.com%2Fimages%2Fsmilies%2Ficon_e_wink.gif&hash=6482601caeaefd51b3dfbec9a368e0056bbecd39)
Mike....
If you ever need to get a yellow or white glue joint apart again....
Try this....
Wet the area with 70% cheap rubbing alcohol. This should weaken the glue. Then cover the wet panel with a paper towel and weight it down until dry to prevent warping.
See ya
Bob
I'm glad I'm not the only one who puts things on upside down/backwards. :) The build is looking great.
Jeff
Thanks Bob I will use your advice next time as I am sure there will be a next time!
Thanks Jeff I appreciate it.
Mike
Continuing...
Here is the wall repaired. Note there are 99 other copies of the kit out there so the shortest gap between the window and the end of the wall should be on the right.
Mike ::)
Continuing...
Next are the stairs. The instructions call for you to use patience for these steps (excuse the pun).
I cleaned up the burrs on the steps and proceeded slowly. First I glued the first stringer to the wall and then I added some steps using CA and some tweezers.
Mike
Quote from: madharry on August 24, 2014, 07:44:26 AM
Continuing...
Next are the stairs. The instructions call for you to use patience for these steps (excuse the pun).
I cleaned up the burrs on the steps and proceeded slowly. First I glued the first stringer to the wall and then I added some steps using CA and some tweezers.
Mike
Looking great Mike. Oh and as to the beer a few posts back. I consider it or something stronger one of the required tools in this hobby. I made a note with your comments and stapled it to the instructions sheet for my up coming build. Thanks for sharing your build.
Fantastic Mike,
I'll say it again...this is my favorite kit of all time! You're doing a great job. I would never wish missteps on you, but...you're really good at fixing them ;) , thanks for the lessons. When I finally decide I'm ready to get started, I'll follow this thread to the letter!
John
Super job so far Mike! I plan on referring to your thread if/when I start my build. Loads of really great information and inspiration here. Thank you so much for sharing this with us! :D
Thanks to the two Johns and Bob I really appreciate your comments.
Continuing...
Here are the stairs almost complete........... the process is slow going and fiddly glueing each step with CA with the help of tweezers.
Mike
Try as I might I had a problem with the lower stairs and I have decided to make up a little jig on my workbench to try and solve the problem.
I have cut another stringer from the lazerboard and I have put some double sided tape on my cutting mat. I kept both stringers vertical with some spare wood and then glued the steps to the stringers. I will let this set up overnight and then glue the complete unit to the building - fingers crossed.
Mike
Here is the lower staircase that I built on my workbench fitted to the structure.
Continuing.... in the next step I added the railings. In doing so I dislodged at least four steps/treads and had to re-attach them not without some great difficulty.
The whole staircase is very fragile indeed. While there was no need to repaint it. I did so in order to get some paint into any minute gaps that might exist between the treads and stringers. I hope the liberal paint coverage might give it extra strength.
Mike
Continuing...
This model is going to feature on a "mini-show layout". In transporting modules they become prone to a few bumps along the way. If the staircase does succumb to some damage I might replace it with this Tichy fire escape instead.
Mike
Continuing..........
Next is the Peckham's sign. For me Peckham will always be associated with the TV programme "Only Fools and Horses" which was set in Peckham, London.
I painted the sign white while it was still in it's carrier sheet and then carefully cut it free. Next I dunked all the wood for the frame in my makeshift bath of A&I.
Mike
Continuing..
I glued the wood frame pieces to the template plan. I use a glue stick to attach the pieces to the plan. I use UHU as it is very easy to detach without any mess once the frame is made up. I use a wood glue to attach the wood to wood. One leg is made extra long to glue through the roof and stabilse the sign.
Once the frame is made up I carefully detach it from the paper template and then use UHU again on the back of the "Peckham's" sign under weights.
Mike
Awesome job on this kit. I have this kit sitting on the shelf and might take a stab at it this winter......... I'm also looking at the new one from SRMW....... carry on...............
Brad
Hi Mike:
Looks like you're moving right along.
Karl
Mike,
Great build and thread. Thanks for taking the time to do the thread and uploading all the photos.
Tom ;D
Thanks for your kind remarks Brad, Karl and Tom. Much appreciated!
Mike
Continuing... Here is the building with the roof sign and small shed fitted.
Mike
Continuing...with the Boiler Chimney. This is made from a drinking straw. First I added some masking tape cut into thin strips to straw at the top, middle and bottom.
I then sprayed the "chimney" primer grey using as a handle a coffee stirrer inserted in the end. Once dried I painted this flat black.
Mike
Continuing...the "steel wall support" is made up of three parts of lazerboard glued together. This was painted matt black and any edges touched up with a black marker pen.
Mike
Continuing...
The chimney was inserted into the roof of the boiler house and glued against the "steel support".
When making holes into roofs I find it easiest to insert the point of a pair of small scissors and gradually increase the size of the hole until the part fits.
Afterwards I sealed the hole with a mixture of wood glue and black paint to look like tar.
Mike
Continuing...
Next up are the two loading decks for the loading and track docks. The cardboard decks are to be covered in weathered 2x10 wood.
I covered each deck in double sided tape before adding the 2x10 planks. These could be cut to size on a "Chopper" but I find it easier to fit them overlong onto the deck and then just cut trim them with a pair of scissors.
Mike Carter
Continuing...
The docks each have a roof canopy - I used the same method with double sided tape and added rolled roofing to one and corrugated roofing to the other.
The corrugated roofing is the Campbell's metal type which I etched in Archer's Etchant to make it look weathered and take away some of the shine.
Mike Carter
Continuing...
I substituted the Northeastern wooden "corrugated" metal for the Campbell metal type. I think the thinner Campbell product is more realistic especially when it is etched.
The process is simple -
a) I cut the strip into panels
b) I have one tumbler full of etchant and three of plain cold water
c) About six panels at a time are dunked into the etchant and left until the mixture starts to bubble. Using tweezers I then extract them quickly and transfer them to a tumbler of water. Failure to do so will result in panel dissolving completely.
d) Afterwards the panels are washed in soap liquid and left to dry. After 24 hours they start to take on a rusty appearance.
The time changes as the etchant heats up. At the start it can take 5 minutes before anything happens. Towards the end of the process 30 seconds may be enough.
Mike Carter
Continuing... I cut rafters for the underside of the roof. I marked where they should go on the underside with a pencil. To finish the deck I added trim to the edges, some legs and cross bracing and then glued both to the structure.
I also added steps painted concrete under the tower double doors.
Mike Carter
Mike.......
Thanx for the tutorial on etching corrugated siding.
see ya
Bob
Thanks very much Bob.
Continuing....
The Peckham's building needs to be "planted" before I can determine the height of the Pier which goes on the opposite side of the building to the trackside loading dock,
So I have decided to continue with the last building in the block of businesses - Bennett Nautical Traders. This building is comprised of cardboard walls covered in corrugated panels. The building's irregular shape is determined by a mattboard sidewalk.
I added double sided tape to the walls and then affixed a random selection of panels to the walls. Whilst the kit comes with the North Eastern wooden "corrugated" panels I have substituted these on my model with Campbell's metal siding.
I painted the sidewalk a concrete colour with cheap acrylic paint.
Mike Carter
You're really kicking this one up a notch with those etched panels Mike! :D Looks great.
I tried that process once, about thirty years ago (I still have the bottle of etchant too) and loved the result but I failed to do a good enough job of washing the panels off after their etchant bath. Over the years the acid continued to eat away at some of the panels. :o If/when I try it again I'll know better (I hope). :D
Thanks Bob.
Continuing....
I braced the back of the card walls as per the instructions. When doing this please note the bracing should be reversed as the diagram is drawn as the facing walls with the bracing on the reverse.
Also I added additional bracing than that suggested to the bottom of the walls as this will give more surface area as the walls need to glued to the irregular shaped sidewalk in the next step.
Mike Carter
Bob,
Here are a few other applications of the aged Campbell's corrugated sheets on various FSM/SRM models on my layout. I love the effect. The dunking of the panels into tumblers of water and then using Fairy washing up liquid always seems to stop the process for me.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Continuing..
Here is the little building glued down to the sidewalk.........
Mike Carter
Continuing...
I have added a sign to the building and the windows and doors.
The instructions call for the structure to be glued to the rest of the row previously built and then the roof to be fitted before affixing rolled roofing.
I decided to complete the building on my workbench before doing this. The roof has the rolled roofing running in two directions and it will be hard enough to do this on the flat. Also I think I have some issues to face when I try to join the buildings....
Mike Carter
Continuing....
This little building is very flimsy...so I have added some extra bracing.
I have affixed rolled roofing to the main roof using double sided tape. The roof itself has to support a small dormer, a large sign and a chimney so I have deviated from the instructions and used some wood to brace the underside.
The roof signs were cut out with a new blade and glued to some scrap card.
Mike Carter
Continuing....
Here are the two buildings that have to be joined together. They both have one thing in common. No wall between them. Whilst I am making this eventually into a diorama that will glued down I am not happy with just two narrow cardboard tabs being the common surface between the two buildings.
Whenever I make a kit I save scrap pieces of wall from the cutouts from the kits. I found two pieces of siding that will fit into the missing void on the McGloin's building. So.................
Mike Carter
Nice job on the metal panels, Mike. I prefer the paper product as I hate painting the metal, it always seems to chip off. I think using the etchant is the only way I'd go back to trying it. I better get some before Radio Shack goes out of business. :)
Jeff
Thanks very much Jeff.
Continuing....
Here is the scrap wall fitted to McGloin's and I feel a lot happier....... I do not need to paint it as it will not be seen but it will be a useful surface to attach the other building to and give the whole row added strength.
Mike Carter
Continuing.........
Here is the little building almost completed. I have glued it to the rest of the business row and now need to add details etc....
Mike
Hi Mike:
Looks very nicely done. Like the colors.
Karl
Hey MadHarry..... Any updates on this kit? I am starting it and find inspiration in reading your thread... Thanks in advance...
Brad
Sorry Brad,
I am hoping to add the Fos Oyster Hill and Bar Mills Cundy Harbour kits to Execution Rocks to make up a nice scene one day.
However my Red Hook Bay show layout has been such a success on the British railway show circuit (36 shows and counting)
that modelling time has been in very short supply lately. Also I have strayed into modelling some British layouts and I have a Norwegian one in the offing as well.
If you need any help with your build just send me a message any time.
Mike
I second Brad's emotion. Glad to your module is so appreciated!
John
Thank you John. My wife Jenny gets a little tired of the success though and is trying to limit the shows to just 12 in a year. However I could never count accurately......................
Mike ;D
Just as long as she approves the one in Utrecht Mike.
I just caught up with your thread Mike. Terrific progress.....you must have the patience of Job to work with all those windows and dormers. Very well done! 8)
Thanks for your kind comments Greg.
Jan - Utrecht is definitely ON - see you there!
Mike
I just found out that Ontraxs is 11, 12, 13 March, so lucky I can make it on the 11th, leaving for Portugal on the 12th to play some golf.
Hi Mike:
What you ain't done yet. Just kidding. Looks great so far.
Karl