After 4 years I am ready to get started working on the next version of the Ogden & Cache Valley Railroad (layout).
Here is a link to my website photo album for my prior Ogden & Cache Valley layout construction:
http://onewolf.org/Album/LayoutConstruction/index.html
Here is a link to the prior message thread here on the Modeler's Forum. Unfortunately many of the photos are missing because their link/source got moved when I reorganized the photo album on my website.
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1942.0
During Pandemic World in 2020 my wife and I decided to get divorced. At the same time my job (software development) went full time remote. I decided to explore the possibility of accelerating my move to East Tennessee which had been planned for retirement/downsizing. My (ex) wife and I owned a lot near Sweetwater and she didn't want it so I "bought" it from her as a part of the divorce settlement. After several trips up to East Tennessee to talk to builders and to confirm that Sweetwater was where I wanted to build I decided start the process. It took a couple years to get my ducks in a row (including disassembling/demoing the old layout). And man, construction prices went up 50-60% in those 2 years! Yikes. I sold/closed on my Florida house in November 2022 and moved into an apartment in Lenoir City TN while I waited for my new house to be built. The house was ready to move in mid May 2024. Since May I have been focused on a bunch of stuff that needed to be done before I could start prepping the layout space.
The House: The main floor is about 2370 sq ft. I designed every square inch and the only change the architect/engineers made they managed to screw up. It has a full walkout basement of 2400 sq ft (the 2+ acre lot is on a consistent 15-16% slope which necessitates the walkout basement). The basement walls are 10 ft Van Hoose Envirocast precast concrete. Envirocast walls are similar to Superior Walls, but much better. The basement walls are 8000PSI concrete and have about 5" of foam insulation. The floor trusses are 24" tall on 19" centers because I told the builder/engineer that I wanted no chance of any floor bounce. I also wanted minimum obstructions in the basement so we came up with a design that uses a 16x6 main LVL beam with 3 support columns (keeping in mind the no floor bounce constraint). There is one column in the layout area, one column in the basement 'garage' area, and one column inside a basement workshop wall.
Originally the only finished space in the basement during the initial build was going to be the 1/2 bathroom, however in discussions with my builder there were advantages to framing/finishing the workshop space (12'x18.5') as well. Therefore the basement workshop and 1/2 bath are finished and have HVAC already. I installed 2x2 random carpet tiles in the workshop and I will do the same in the layout space as well after the walls are finished.
I am currently installing electrical outlets in the unfinished basement walls (and ceiling) in the layout space. There will be 16 unswitched (15A) wall outlets, 4 (20A) wall outlets on a single switched circuit (for layout command/control and layout lighting), and an additional 7 outlets in the ceiling (on a new 15A switched circuit). I am using 72W 4ft frosted LED tube fixtures that output 8800 lumens each. I currently have 11 of these and I plan to add another 10 on the new circuit/switch. I plan to have a lot of lumens available for room lighting because the open/unfinished ceiling will eat a lot of light compared to a white ceiling. The ceiling in the layout space (and basement garage) will be left unfinished to allow for ease of maintenance (electrical, hvac, plumbing, etc).
Once I am done with the eletrical rough-in I will have a drywall crew hang/finish the drywall. I haven't decided whether I will paint the walls myself or hire painters. After painting the walls I will install the 2x2 random carpet tiles (still the same $.50/sq ft as they were back in 2015).
Some photos of the interior of the house.
Every main room has a view out the back
(https://i.imgur.com/QeMdVsc.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UlF3Q9e.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cZk74AQ.jpeg)
The covered part of the back deck
(https://i.imgur.com/pjUZgQX.jpeg)
The two unfinished walls in the basement garage area will be drywalled/painted when the layout space walls are finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/2iBalIv.jpeg)
I boxed up (and filled with peanuts) the 12 bay roundhouse. It will be interesting to see how well it survived the move and 18 months in storage.
(https://i.imgur.com/XX1AJPa.jpeg)
Before disassembling the prior layout:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fonewolf.org%2FAlbum%2FLayoutConstruction%2FStructure%2520Kit%2520Builds%2FKit%2520-%2520Roundhouse%2Fslides%2F20190107_044742.jpg&hash=ab3e120e0b27e795b1cdf88dd4304c534a830913)
My 6 stall (plaster) roundhouse and turntable assembly is boxed up and sitting in my basement. Hopefully, I'll get to Phase II where I build the big yard and engine terminal. I'm looking forward to seeing how you fill your space!
dave
For posterity, here are some photos of the exterior of the house.
My house is about 100 ft away from the neighbor on the left
(https://i.imgur.com/jGQH9ka.jpg)
And about 120 ft away from the neighbor's house on the right. They have some sort of tiered planter project going on.
(https://i.imgur.com/GbSDfpf.jpg)
The back side of the house.
(https://i.imgur.com/RWyXFXf.jpg)
I had to get grass seed down in mid June to keep the yard/dirt/clay from washing away. Given the drought/heatwave we were in I didn't think any of the grass seed was going to sprout, but the monsoon started in mid July which allowed some of the grass (and weeds) to sprout. I will overseed in late Sept/Oct and again in March to fill in the bare areas.
(https://i.imgur.com/w6Whn9l.jpg)
From down near the back property line looking back up the hill to my house.
(https://i.imgur.com/zgFzw4q.jpeg)
My back yard neighbors. Their fence is the back property line. It's about 100 ft below the house elevation.
(https://i.imgur.com/vjxe7H5.jpeg)
Doug,
Looks like you have everything under control.
Looking forward to your new layout.
Tom
What a beautiful home. Congratulations!
The view off of the porch is inspiring...I can almost hear the steam whistles echoing through the valley
Good to have you back.
John
Quote from: cuse on August 16, 2024, 03:18:01 PMWhat a beautiful home. Congratulations!
The view off of the porch is inspiring...I can almost hear the steam whistles echoing through the valley
Good to have you back.
John
The Norfolk Southern main line between Knoxville and Chattanooga is about 1.3 miles away from my house (on the other side of the ridge) so I frequently hear trains going by. It's all at grade crossings and sometimes the train drivers go crazy on the horn button.
Link to photo album of the deconstruction of the prior layout: https://imgur.com/gallery/train-layout-deconstruction-D4hbEy5
When I disassembled/demoed the prior layout I was able to save all the electronics (DCC control, power boosters, circuit breakers, occupancy detection, turnout control, etc). I saved all 115 turnouts, and all the flex track that wasn't glued down (Mostly Atlas code 100 in the lower/upper return loops. The Peco code 100 I had recycled from the previous layout was permabonded/glued and was not saveable. Almost all the visible track was glued/caulked and painted. The track on the homasote (main yard, loco service) scraped up with some homasote stuck. The track on the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed pulled up LOTS of foam. I was lead to believe I _might_ be able to use a pressure washer to get the homasote and foam off the approximately 400 pieces of painted flex track so I saved all of it.
Unfortunately the only item that seems to have gone missing during my move was the large plastic tub containing the painted flex track with stuff stuck to it. So I will never know whether that track would have been saveable.
I have already ordered 200 pieces of Atlas code 100 and 400 pieces of Atlas code 83 flex track from Yankee Dabbler. Can't wait until I'm ready to start laying track. ;D
Beautiful house!! Looking forward to the new RR build.
Jerry
Very nice indeed. Nice "elbow room" from your neighbors...not like the zero lot lines in central Florida
terry
What a gorgeous house and beautiful sights.
Nice place, Doug.
Would love to see a plan of the lower floor so we can dream about what we might do if it was our space...
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on August 18, 2024, 01:18:40 AMNice place, Doug.
Would love to see a plan of the lower floor so we can dream about what we might do if it was our space...
Cheers, Mark.
Here's the basement floorplan/dimensions.
(https://i.imgur.com/nw50MOY.jpeg)
Here are very preliminary drawings of one layout design that basically works. It needs a lot more refinement/details before it would be ready to start construction.
I really liked my previous layout design which was a 3 level mushroom, but I would like to keep the new layout as a more simple two level layout. For the new layout I want a want a large classification yard, locomotive service facility, and passenger train service/station.
I am dropping the base elevation of the levels by 2". The previous layout elevations were 42"/62"/82". This new design base elevations are 40" and 60".
Lower level:
(https://i.imgur.com/hKPLds7.jpeg)
Upper level:
(https://i.imgur.com/BKOcKhp.jpeg)
Here is the design/plan for the previous layout (three level mushroom)\
Lower level:
(https://i.imgur.com/XaJo4zK.jpeg)
Middle level:
(https://i.imgur.com/1a8Je1V.jpeg)
Upper level:
(https://i.imgur.com/eYEV6Nd.jpeg)
Lots of fun!
Do all the materials to build the layout have to be taken through the workshop?
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on August 20, 2024, 04:07:17 PMLots of fun!
Do all the materials to build the layout have to be taken through the workshop?
Cheers, Mark.
Yes, but the layout room is a 'clean' room. No sawing, sanding, etc. All benchwork construction will be done in the basement 'garage' space. Same as my previous layout.
Cleaning/organizing the layout room space to prepare for drywall installation. Hopefully they will start hanging drywall late in the week or early the following week. Here you can see my "not summer" tires/wheels (the original/mediocre all season tires) ) and benchwork sections salvaged from the previous layout.
Doug,
Welcome back to the Forum ! Nice looking new construction home and great space for the future workshop and layout too. At least your SUV slide down the back side of the hill and not into the house. Will look forward to this new thread and photos of your new adventure.
Tommy
Hi Doug.
I did a google image search of railway yards and nearly every view is taken from the end of the yard looking longways down it - either from above (drone, tower) or from track level. It occurs to me that by putting your layout around the walls of your layout room you will not get this fantastic view. I have done a quick sketch for another idea for you to consider. All the arrows show the longways views you would get by taking this approach. As you say - there are many different shapes that will fit in a room this size - so this is just a demonstration of this idea.
IMG20240828134822comp.jpg
Cheers, Mark.
Love the photos Doug. Beautiful house and area views. Looks like you have a real project going, will be fun watching it come to life.
Jim
The drywall guys finished hanging the drywall in the train layout room in about 2.5 hours.
Next they will bang out the basement garage space (just 2 walls) and then start on finishing the drywall.
It's time to update and catch up to the current state of the build.
The drywall was finished, painted, and then I installed baseboard and 2x2 carpet tiles. The carpet tiles just lay on the floor with no need for glue/tape.
Drywall finishing
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Drywall finishing
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Walls painted
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Walls painted
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Painting baseboard before installation
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Carpet tiles
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Next I built a lumber storage 'rack' in the basement garage space
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And a cutting/assembly table
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I also hooked up the dust collector with drops for the miter saw, table saw, and track saw
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I started building the benchwork for the lower level return loop. The lower level return loop will be at 36" elevation and the city of Ogden will be above this at 43" of elevation. There will be 7 tracks in the lower return loop with radii from 42.5" to 28.5". The outside loop is considered the mainline and the 6 inside loops are for staging. This represents UP mainline headed east from Ogden towards Green River/Cheyenne.
I was able to reuse 4 sections of 1x4 open grid modules I salvaged from the prior layout.
20241217_155256.jpg
This section of benchwork has cross supports with inconsistent spacing to (hopefully) not have interference with the staging track turnout ladder Tortoise motors on this side. Same on the other side turnout ladder.
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The wall is about 32 ft from the alcove corner to the end of the lower return loop. From the end benchwork module and around the corner the benchwork steps up 4" to the default lower level elevation of 40".
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I got my large load of lumber delivered just before my work's holiday break. Great timing.
It had rained for several days leading up to the lumber delivery and I was (rightfully) concerned about their ability to deliver onto the basement garage patio. But we were able to get the lumber delivered (and he helped me move the 44 sheets of plywood into the storage rack).
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Next I started working on the 80" tall stud walls for the center platform. The center platform is about 16ft x 12ft and the floor will be elevated to 28".
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And then I built the stud 'walls' that connect from the center platform to the wall next to the entrance door.
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Floor trusses for the center platform. They are spaced to allow storage between them.
20241223_104338.jpg
Establishing the center of the helix.
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Installing the very heavy 3/4" tongue/groove center platform floor.
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Dealing with the steel column that supports the main 16x6 beam (that holds up the main floor of the house).
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Nice storage under the center platform floor.
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After installing the 1/2" sanded plywood walls for the center platform. Eventually I will install the 4" tall piece around the bottom.
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I installed 1/4" Luan plywood around the wall between the center platform all the existing room wall. I will caulk and paint this the same as the wall color.
20241225_113654.jpg
I built stairs for the center platform out of 2x12 boards. The steps are at 7" 14" 21" and 28" (the floor of the center platform).
20241226_134139.jpg
I started working on the support columns for the helix structure. The helix will be a double track (radius 37.5" and 40") and allow trains to go between the lower level at 40" and the middle level at 60".
20241228_081243.jpg
The upper return loop will be above the helix at 80" elevation. I have installed the sub-roadbed 3/4" plywood to help stabilize the helix support columns.
20241229_061910.jpg
I installed wall support beams to replace the temporary 2x2 legs along the lower return loop area.
That is my standard procedure: initially build benchwork with temporary 2x2 legs and then come back and install wall support beams (and remove the 2x2 legs).
20241228_134308.jpg
20241228_143245.jpg
Building 1x4 benchwork around the alcove. You can see on the left how the benchwork steps up as the mainline (return loop) climbs from 36" to the default lower level 40".
20241229_100541.jpg
And the benchwork along the 42ft long wall. This will be the main classification yard and locomotive service area.
20241229_143145.jpg
The blue tape represents where the turntable/roundhouse steam locomotive service will eventually be located.
20241229_144324.jpg
And wall support struts installed.
20241230_080221.jpg
Benchwork along the 32ft wall (with windows). The yard leads, reefer icing station, passenger station and service will be located.
Before I build the middle level benchwork (60" elevation) I will decide how to deal with the windows. On the previous layout I blacked out the windows with 2" foam insulation and 5/8" plywood.
20241231_082300.jpg
So the question is whether you think you'd need to get at those windows. Before we finished the basement, I cut a 2" thick piece of styrofoam to fit into the door frame for the bulkhead walk-out. I glued (styrofoam-safe Liquid Nails) a small piece of 2" x 2' x 6" styrofoam to serve as a handle, so it was easy to remove that when necessary.
If you want a finished panel, then you could just go with wallboard glued to the styrofoam. You can add spacers to get the styrofoam/wallboard sandwich to sit flush with the rest of the wall.
One small concern would be condensation between the window and the styrofoam plug. It's probably worth cutting the plug with some gaps at the bottom to allow any condensation to drain.
dave
You're making some great progress, Doug.
Are you planning on a 'cloud' ceiling?
Watching with interest. I'm pleased to see this thread updated, as I don't usually read the daily thread.
Cheers, Mark.
Doug, you are making amazing progress since moving into your new home. Wish there was someone like you who lived down the road from me. Will keep on checking back...Tommy
Some wider angle views of the infrastructure/benchwork progress I made in the first 2 weeks. Being off work for 12 days for holiday allowed for much progress. It will slow considerably as I go back to work full time starting today.
The next several months will be dedicated to building benchwork.
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"I love the smell of sawdust in the morning! It smells like ... progress!"
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 02, 2025, 08:48:03 AM"I love the smell of sawdust in the morning! It smells like ... progress!"
dave
I love the smell of sawdust anytime, day or night. Along with fresh lumber that is. 8)
As much as possible I try to maintain the layout room as a "clean" room. No sawing, sanding, etc. All that gets done in the basement garage space. Which is FULL of dust even though I run a dust collector system in there.
I've been following along, Doug. It's nice to see all the progress you're making.
A trip down memory lane. Here's the SBG visiting your previous layout in Florida.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130817105610-243192357.jpeg)
Enjoying the updates on your new empire Doug..... 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 02, 2025, 10:27:26 AMI've been following along, Doug. It's nice to see all the progress you're making.
A trip down memory lane. Here's the SBG visiting your previous layout in Florida.
The new layout has very similar design to the previous one. The biggest difference is the new one does not have the upper level 'wings' like we were standing under in your photo.
I have not done much in the last several days, but I did install the wall support struts for the benchwork along the wall with windows and I removed the temp legs.
20250104_132258.jpg
Here is the assortment of wiring I will be using.
12ga solid red/black for the track power bus. The track will be driven by 4 Digitrax DB150s and one DB210. These will feed 14 PSX breakers and 2 PSX-AR reversing breakers creating16 power districts.
20250104_121353.jpg
12ga stranded yellow/orange for the layout lighting LED strip power bus.
20250104_121406.jpg
22ga solid red/black for track feeders.
20250104_121543.jpg
18ga stranded red/black for hooking up misc devices like NCE Switch turnout control, and RR-Cirkits occupancy detection modules.
20250104_121427.jpg
And 12ga multi colored for occupancy zone track buses (like lower/upper return loops). This wire is CCA which is generally pretty crappy wire, but for short lengths with minimal current it works fine. And having all the different colors is helpful when wiring 7 return loop/staging tracks.
20250104_121332.jpg
I am continuing to work on lower level benchwork. Once I finish the lower level benchwork I will start on the middle level benchwork. Barring significant interruptions from real work I think it should take another 2 months to finish the benchwork (lower, middle, upper).
So far I have reused 12 benchwork modules that I salvaged from the previous layout. I will reuse more on the middle level, but very few/none on the upper level.
20250107_193002.jpg
20250107_193011.jpg
I don't recall if I ever posted the Givens/Druthers for the layout. I also show the current loco roster.
Givens- HO Scale
- DCC control
- Fit in the available basement space
Druthers- Union Pacific (large investment in UP locos/rolling stock)
- Late 1950s Era - Plausible for large steam engines, Gas Turbine engines, First generation diesel engines
- Single track mainline
- Long mainline run
- 40" radius curves on mainline
- Ample space between 'towns'. I don't like having the front of train in town A while the rear of train is still in town B.
- Passenger train - station, service
- Continuous run possible
- One pass per scene
- 36+" wide aisles
- 32" max benchwork depth for lower level
- 24" max benchwork depth for middle level
- #8 turnouts where large locos must traverse
- #6 turnouts for yards, service spurs
Current Design - 3 level mushroom
- Lower level is at 40" nominal (lower return loop is 36", city above lower return loop is 43")
- Middle level is at 60" (until the nolix which climbs to 80" for upper level)
- Upper level is at 80" obsolute, center platform is 28" so the upper level is at 52" relative.
- Almost all mainline curves are 40+". Exceptions: 36" curve on lower level entering helix. 36" on upper level entering upper return loop
- 525 ft mainline between lower and upper return loops
- 1120 ft for full loop
- One train can run continuous without intervention
- Climbs 44" from lower return loop (36") to upper return loop (80")
- Climbs 51" from lower return loop (36") to upper city branch line (87")
- Narrowest aisle is 40", most are 46"-48"
- Deepest benchwork depth is 30"
- Freelance model of Ogden, Oregon Short Line, and Cache Valley Branch
Roster Info
Current Passenger Trains
- Union Pacific
- (2) Lightweight (BLI E7A/E7A/E8B sound, Athearn Genesis F3A/B sound)
- Heavyweight (BLI and Lionel Challenger Greyhound) sound
- Santa Fe Lightweight Warbonnet (BLI F7 A/B sound)
- Southern Pacific(2) Daylight - BLI E7A/E7B (sound), E7A/E7B(dummy) sound
- California Zephyr Denver Rio Grande & Western (Rapido PA1/PB1) sound
- California Zephyr Western Pacific (BLI F3A/F3B/F3B(dummy) sound
Current Loco Roster
Steam
- (2) Trix Big Boy (No sound) (getting sound installed very soon)
- Rivarossi Big Boy (No sound)
- (2) Lionel Challenger (sound)
- (2) BLI Challenger (sound) on order
- (2) Rivarossi FEF 4-8-4 (No sound)
- (2) Athearn FEF3 4-8-4 (sound)
- (5) Proto 2000 2-8-8-2 (3 sound, 2 no sound) 3 will be UP, 2 will be Utah Railway
- (2) BLI 2-6-6-4 (Sound)
- (2) BLI 4-6-4 (Sound)
- Mantua 4-6-2 (No sound) Not sure the use case - Maybe excursion/heritage in 1957?
Diesel
- Sound
- BLI E7A/E7A/E8B sound - UP
- BLI F7 A/B sound - Santa Fe
- BLI E7A/E7B sound - Southern Pacific
- BLI E7A/E7B(dummy) sound - Southern Pacific
- BLI F3A/F3B/F3B(dummy) sound - Western Pacific
- Athearn Genesis F3A/B sound - UP
- Rapido PA1/PB1 sound - DRG&W
Non Sound - UP
Atlas Alco S-2
Atlas Alco S-2
Kato EMD NW2 Phase II
Kato EMD NW2 Phase II
Kato Alco RSC-2
Kato Alco RS-2
Kato Alco RS-2
Proto 2000 GP9
Proto 2000 GP9 II
Proto 2000 Alco FA1
Proto 2000 Alco FB1
Proto 2000 EMD SD7
Proto 2000 EMD SD7
Proto 2000 EMD SD7
Proto 2000 EMD E6A
Proto 2000 EMD E6A
Proto 2000 EMD E6A
Stewart Baldwin VO-1000
Walthers Mainline Alco RS-2
Non Union Pacific
Atlas Classic RSD-4/5 (Utah Railway 301)
Atlas Classic RSD-4/5 (Utah Railway 300)
Gas Turbine
- Athearn Gas Turbine Gen1 54 (sound)
- Athearn Gas Turbine Gen2 Veranda 61 (sound)
- Athearn Gas Turbine Gen2 Veranda 65 (sound)
- Athearn Gas Turbine Gen2 Veranda 71
And here are the locomotives that don't fit the era I am modeling (late 50s). They all have DCC decoders (no sound). I will be selling them eventually. Let me know if anyone sees anything interesting. :)
While the Atlas ACL GP7 fits era wise, an ACL locomotive would be awfully lost to end up out it Ogden. I bought it because my (ex) wife liked the Purple color. :)
20250107_122927.jpg
I finished the open grid 1x4 lower level benchwork that wraps around the outside of the center platform. I just have 2 more support struts to install. Much of the lower level will have 5/8" plywood and then 1/2" homasote or foamular rigid foam. I used homasote on the previous layout and it has a lot of positive attributes, but it was NOT flat and it required a lot of patching/leveling. That's why I'm thinking about possible using 1/2 foamular instead.
I think I will start on the upper level benchwork next as I don't have any questions/issues as I have with the middle level benchwork. As a bonus the upper level benchwork is much smaller in size then the middle or lower level so I hope to knock it out quickly.
This is the narrowest aisle at 40" wide. The other aisles are 46"-48" (or wider).
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This is where the mainline wraps around the center platform and then will enter the helix for the trip up to the middle level.
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That is some serious benchwork and well made to boot along with very colourfull carper tiles.
Looking forward to seeing the upper level built.
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 11, 2025, 10:56:09 PMThat is some serious benchwork and well made to boot along with very colourfull carper tiles.
Looking forward to seeing the upper level built.
The colorful carpet tiles are $0.49/sq ft. It's the least expensive option I could find that is nice for walking on, crawling on, and easy to replace individual tiles when 'accidents' happen. Highly recommended.
Here are photos from the previous layout that show how the outside edge of the upper benchwork is supported from the ceiling with a 'wall' that drops from the ceiling. These walls are built with 1x3s at the top and bottom and 2x2 in between. There is a lip on the inside bottom formed by the 1x3 that the open grid benchwork rests on. The outside gets covered with lightweight 1/4" Luan plywood and the inside gets covered with 1/8" masonite/hardboard (backdrop).
IMG_2831.jpg
And then with the Luan plywood installed on the outside. Eventually I painted these outside panels to the room wall color.
IMG_2839.jpg
And then this photo shows the inside with 1/8" masonite painted sky blue with hazy clouds (as a first step for a backdrop). Again, from the previous layout.
IMG_4255.jpg
This looks like it will be an amazing layout and the benchwork is top notch.
I'll have to stop in regularly to check on the progress being made.
Doug,
If your current layout is anything like the one you had here, it will be fantastic. And, you don't have to remodel the kitchen and sell the house. 8)
I'm looking forward to your progress. So far, top notch work.
Tom
Super open house floor plan and layout! I like the exposed ceiling joist and mechanics. Nothing like drywall dust raining down if something fails.
Enjoy the new chapter in your life!
Philip
I cut/installed the 3/4" plywood helix base pieces today. When I am ready to start building the helix I will put 16 riser blocks on the helix base. These riser blocks will establish the 4" rise for each revolution of the helix. There will be 4 1/2 revolutions to the top of the helix. I build the helix roadbed with overlapping 7/16 sanded plywood (so 7/8" thick).
I cleaned up and did some organization of the layout room this week.
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I started work on the upper level 1x3 open grid benchwork. Keep in mind that the outside edge will be supported from the ceiling.
I need to find/buy some better quality 1x3s to build the screen walls down from the ceiling. The 1x3s I have for building the open grid are pretty sketchy. They range in width from 2.5" (expected) to 2 7/8" (yeesh). I may have to start ripping them down to 2.5" on the table saw.
A reminder of the upper level design. The mainline track comes across the aisle from the middle level nolix and makes a circle around the center platform before entering the upper return loop (and staging tracks).
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Some amazing work going one here. Wow.
jim
Wow, some nice, neat bench work. I'm impressed.
Bernd
I rip all my benchwork (1x4s with 1x2s for L girder) from 3/4 in plywood on the table saw as most dimensional lumber is to "curvy". I do use dimensional 2x4 and 1x2 lumber carefully picked from the pile. You're moving much more quickly than I would be. Good work.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 18, 2025, 10:30:11 AMI rip all my benchwork (1x4s with 1x2s for L girder) from 3/4 in plywood on the table saw as most dimensional lumber is to "curvy". I do use dimensional 2x4 and 1x2 lumber carefully picked from the pile. You're moving much more quickly than I would be. Good work.
Jeff
I have over 450 linear feet of benchwork to build. I did a quick calculation of the cost/time to create 1x4 and 1x3 lumber for the benchwork using sanded plywood and it was prohibitively expensive in $ and time.
I did spend some time yesterday ripping my sketchy 1x3s so they are actually a consistent 2.5" wide. I did about 10 of them and it didn't take long at all.
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Working on the upper level benchwork and screen walls that support the outside edge this weekend.
Here you can see the blocking I had to add where the screen walls run parallel to the floor trusses but don't align with the truss. 2x4 over 2 of the trusses and 2x4 between the trusses as a mount point.
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From inside the center platform
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I finished building/installing the screen wall components that support the outer edge of the upper level 1x3 benchwork. The next step is to install the 1/4" Luan plywood to the outside of the screen walls to create the "room within a room" for the center platform.
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I installed the 1/4" Luan plywood to the upper level screen walls. I will use a hand sander to give them a very light sanding to knock off any sawing residue, caulk the seams/screw holes, and then paint them the room wall color.
The center platform 'room' is effectively 20ft x 17ft.
The next step will be to start on the middle level benchwork. I will fabricate 2x2 angle iron into 24" support beams for use around the center platform stud walls and I will make small 5" shelf track supports and use 16" Closetmaid like shelf brackets to support the benchwork around the outside walls.
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Looking up into the center platform
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The inside of the screen walls will have 1/8" masonite installed and then have the backdrop applied to the masonite.
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Eventually I will build a backdrop across the top of the upper return loop (and helix) which will screen the view from the center platform.
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I have been slowed down by real work (we are in release crunch mode) and getting the middle level brackets prepped for installation. First I was delayed because I was waiting for Ospho (can't find it local) and for new drill bits (I needed to drill a bunch of holes in the steel brackets. I have now fabricated all 23 steel brackets, but now the weather has not cooperated for a couple weeks to apply the Ospho and to spray paint the brackets.
I did install the 5/8" plywood around the lower level where the main division yard and passenger terminal/station/service will be located. And around the lower level center platform which will be mostly industrial facilities.
I found that I have to use the chop saw outside or it will set off the smoke alarm in the basement. :)
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Support brackets cut into 24" sections.
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With the front bottom corners cut off (to avoid lobomotizing anyone who peers under the middle level)
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Applying Ospho (which subsequently got rain blown on and will be redone.
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I installed 1/4" Luan plywood around the bottom of these walls. Next I will sand/caulk and then paint to match the room walls.
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Installing the 5/8" plywood around the lower level.
After installing the middle level benchwork I will install 1/2" rigid foam over the 5/8" plywood. On the previous layout I used 1/2" Homasote, but I found I had to spend a lot of time patching/smoothing the homasote. That won't be a problem with the foam, but the foam is susceptible to dents/dings when stuff is dropped on it. (And elbows as well).
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After I install the purple 1/2" foam I will paint it in order to cover up the purpleness. Gray for yard/service areas and dark brown for industrial areas.
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In my spare time I have been adding sound decoders to some of my locomotives, like this Athearn Veranda Gas Turbine. My layout will be modeling 1957 so both Gen1 slab side and Gen2 Veranda Gas Turbines are plausible. Gen3 "Big Blow" turbines were not delivered until 1958 so I don't need to buy any of those expensive Scale Trains Big Blow Turbines. :)
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Each update gets more impressive than the previous ones.
I'm in awe of your woodworking and cabinetry skills.
You have spare time? ;) :o
Howdy Doug,
I just read your thread. Wow! Your carpentry and cabinet skills are amazing. The house is beautiful too and looks quite functional. I'm anxiously waiting for the next post.
Have fun,
mike
This is so impressive the wood working is done so well.
Jerry
Great house and great layout!
I have been in release crunch mode with real work for the last couple of weeks so I haven't spent as much time as I would like working on the layout. I did finally have a couple of nice days weather wise that allowed me to apply Ospho to the middle level steel support brackets and to spray paint them flat black. I installed them this afternoon. Next I will cut/place 5/8" plywood on the brackets and then 1/2" rigid foam on top of the plywood.
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Doug,
This is fantastic and looks much bigger than the Sanford layout.
Keep up the great work and we all look forward to the next update, real work load permitting.
As Rick said, it does get more impressive with each update.
Tom
That's quite a pile of lumber Doug, a shame you're not just around the corner anymore, but we'll all follow your progress here.... 8)
Great update. Your one neat builder!!
Jerry
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 27, 2025, 06:19:33 PMDoug,
This is fantastic and looks much bigger than the Sanford layout.
Keep up the great work and we all look forward to the next update, real work load permitting.
As Rick said, it does get more impressive with each update.
Tom
The layout room down in Sanford was around 920 sq ft. The basement layout space is around 1250 sq ft, so yes it is a little bit larger. Given the extra space I was hoping to get away with a 2 level layout design, but I just couldn't come up with a design that I preferred over the 3 level mushroom.
One issue I have encountered is acquiring 4x8 sheets of 1/2" Homasote. None of the local building supply places stock it, but they can order it. One place will order 48 sheet 'packs' and the other place will order 60 sheet packs. Mmmm, no thanks.
I have found that Menards up near Lexington KY stocks it and has it in stock, but it's a 3 hour drive each way.
Thanks for taking the time to post your efforts here! As a retired shop teacher/carpenter I have to admire your wood working skills. A+
Earlier in post # 63, you wrote: "I did spend some time yesterday ripping my sketchy 1x3s so they are actually a consistent 2.5" wide. I did about 10 of them and it didn't take long at all."
I live halfway between Chicago and Milwaukee, so no shortage of lumber yards near me, but an extreme shortage of good lumber yards, because the big boxes out-competed the small yards. The small yards near me typically had lumber quality that was a far cry ahead of the Green, Orange, or Blue box guys, and well worth the extra cost.
Consequently, one trick I have practiced for a long time when I need straight narrow boards, like 1x3 or 1 x 4, or 2x3, etc, is to rip my own down from a wider board, wide enough to yield at least two of what I am looking for. Wider boards are often milled from a larger log, straighter and more stable in a typical big box lumber bunk. Since lumber prices are determined by board foot, there is very little extra cost as long as I plan carefully.
Quote from: Onewolf on February 28, 2025, 10:07:56 AMOne issue I have encountered is acquiring 4x8 sheets of 1/2" Homasote. None of the local building supply places stock it, but they can order it. One place will order 48 sheet 'packs' and the other place will order 60 sheet packs. Mmmm, no thanks.
I have found that Menards up near Lexington KY stocks it and has it in stock, but it's a 3 hour drive each way.
Doug,
Sounds like a nice little road trip. Didn't you make one for the carpet tiles?
Tom
Hello Doug, I had trouble locating 1/2 homosote down here in Arizona until I realized that Home Depot here in the Phoenix area stocked it, but called it sound deadening board.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 28, 2025, 12:22:27 PMQuote from: Onewolf on February 28, 2025, 10:07:56 AMOne issue I have encountered is acquiring 4x8 sheets of 1/2" Homasote. None of the local building supply places stock it, but they can order it. One place will order 48 sheet 'packs' and the other place will order 60 sheet packs. Mmmm, no thanks.
I have found that Menards up near Lexington KY stocks it and has it in stock, but it's a 3 hour drive each way.
Doug,
Sounds like a nice little road trip. Didn't you make one for the carpet tiles?
Tom
Yes, probably this coming weekend.
Quote from: nycjeff on February 28, 2025, 08:36:46 PMHello Doug, I had trouble locating 1/2 homosote down here in Arizona until I realized that Home Depot here in the Phoenix area stocked it, but called it sound deadening board.
Neither Home Depot nor Lowes stock it or provide a mechanism for you to order it. 84 Lumber said they could order it if I ordered 60 sheets.
Working on the middle level around the center platform. I started cutting/placing the 1/2" foam on the 5/8" plywood, but I have decided to go ahead and install the 1/8" masonite backdrops and laminate panel for the three coved corners on each level around the center platform before installing/gluing the 1/2" foam.
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Doug,
It's coming together very nicely.
Tom
8) Nice update!