Several months ago Jim asked me if I would participate in a Modeler's Forum build challenge. I told him I would be happy to. I don't really have an area where I can install a diorama on the layout. Also, I need to only build something I can use on the layout and not have the structure become a shelf orphan.
My space is limited and it is shaped liked a flat iron. Hence, the title of a Flat Iron Corner Building.
The available real estate for the structure is approx. 25 square inches.
A flat iron building is one that resembles an old iron from the turn of the 20th Century. The next two photos are of a flat iron which I got from my grandmother. I've been using this flat iron as a door stop for the past 50 years.
The third photo is of an archival photo of a flat iron building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124154635-53098301.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124154635-530992222.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152504-530851444.jpeg)
The next photo shows you my available space.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152504-53088850.jpeg)
This block of real estate is on the Dixie Hwy. and the front property line is on a slight curved section of the highway.
My structure will be scratch built to fit the space and will be surrounded by sidewalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152504-530892240.jpeg)
I made a paper template of the space and then drew in the sidewalk areas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152504-53090454.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152504-530911025.jpeg)
I then used the paper template as a guide and did the same on a piece of basswood from Northeast Scale Lumber. The wood is 1/16" thick and is scribed on one side. I turned the wood over to give me the smooth side for the concrete slab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152548-530922114.jpeg)
The piece of wood I had on hand wasn't wide enough so I glued on a section at the top (curved portion) for the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152548-530932397.jpeg)
Using my paper template as a guide, I used a #2 pencil and drew the sidewalk and expansion joints.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152548-530942094.jpeg)
I then used one of my pointed punches to scribe the pencil lines to give the base some relief.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152548-530951054.jpeg)
I used Floquil Aged Concrete and painted the basswood base. The paint is dry, but I'll wait for the paint to cure prior to adding weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152548-530961631.jpeg)
I cut off the end as I want a small section for a small tree or bush.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152630-530972405.jpeg)
The actual footprint of the structure is seen in the interior sides of the sidewalks.
Again, here are the two photos for your convenience.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152504-530911025.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-201124152548-530961631.jpeg)
The flat iron building will measure, in HO scale feet as follows.
Front wall - 40 feet.
Rear wall - 36 feet.
North end wall - 7 feet.
South end wall - 23 feet.
Off to a cracker start, Tom.
I remember seeing a lovely iron front building in MRR built from City Classics iron front, front walls, with a turret protrusion on the small corner. I bookmarked it as a project for on day in the future. Looking forward to seeing what you do with your triangular site.
Cheers, Mark.
Building from the bottom-up! Yeah, a great start, an interesting building to fit the space.
dave
I love a good scratchbuild! So far so good! Looking forward to the journey!
Matt
Thanks Tom;
What a great start, I will be following for sure. :o I apparently screwed up where to post these challenge threads, I'd hoped everyone would just open topic in the Winter Challenge Board area of Forum and put there challenge build there. If it is OK I will see if Craig can move the thread at this point if not not a problem and we will follow along here as is. Building on the layout is great and you have up to 288 sq inches to work with so enjoy the space.
I really enjoy how clean you build and explain what you are doing, I learn a lot. Already learned something about building realistic sidewalk area!
Jim
This will be fun to watch. I've never seen that type of track radius gauge before.
Jeff
Another well thought out build. Your SBS are always clear and easy to follow
terry
Tom, great start to your build and nice photos too, will get some popcorn and sit back...Tommy
That's going to be quit a "challenge", it will be fun seeing you put this one together Tom..... :)
Great idea for a kit. When I worked in Palmerton, PA, there was a triangle shaped building up the street that I thought would make an interesting structure for a layout. The back of the building was against the train tracks. Should be fun to see what you come up with! ;D
Hi Tom,
Glad to see your doing another build my friend. Have a great Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas this year. Talk with ya soon.
The Infamous Diet Pepsi Kid
;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on November 20, 2024, 05:55:31 PMOff to a cracker start, Tom.
I remember seeing a lovely iron front building in MRR built from City Classics iron front, front walls, with a turret protrusion on the small corner. I bookmarked it as a project for on day in the future. Looking forward to seeing what you do with your triangular site.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I think I remember that one as well. I haven't decided if I do a small turret on the smaller end.
I appreciate you following along.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on November 20, 2024, 07:54:35 PMBuilding from the bottom-up! Yeah, a great start, an interesting building to fit the space.
dave
Dave,
Thank you for following along. It is a very interesting corner.
Tom
Quote from: restocarp on November 21, 2024, 04:46:30 AMI love a good scratchbuild! So far so good! Looking forward to the journey!
Matt
Matt,
Happy to have you along on the journey. I enjoy scratch building but also like to kit bash the heck out of kits.
Tom
Quote from: Jim Donovan on November 21, 2024, 08:29:27 AMThanks Tom;
What a great start, I will be following for sure. :o I apparently screwed up where to post these challenge threads, I'd hoped everyone would just open topic in the Winter Challenge Board area of Forum and put there challenge build there. If it is OK I will see if Craig can move the thread at this point if not not a problem and we will follow along here as is. Building on the layout is great and you have up to 288 sq inches to work with so enjoy the space.
I really enjoy how clean you build and explain what you are doing, I learn a lot. Already learned something about building realistic sidewalk area!
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for following. I messed up on the original post as I didn't scan down the forum topics far enough to see the Winter Challenge Topic. I appreciate you and Craig transferring the build thread here.
In my builds, I try to give a very brief compendium of what I'm doing. I'm not one for long narratives when a few words explain it all.
Thank you also for the kind and generous compliment on my builds.
Tom
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 21, 2024, 08:35:49 AMThis will be fun to watch. I've never seen that type of track radius gauge before.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Thanks for checking in. The track gauge is by Tracksetta and are now made my PECO. You can find them on Amazon and Ebay. As Dave mentioned, Fast Tracks also sells track gauges.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on November 21, 2024, 09:37:19 AMAnother well thought out build. Your SBS are always clear and easy to follow
terry
Terry,
I appreciate the comment kind sir. Very happy to have you following along.
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on November 21, 2024, 10:34:29 AMTom, great start to your build and nice photos too, will get some popcorn and sit back...Tommy
Tommy,
Thank you for the compliment my friend. I can smell the popcorn from here. Sit back and enjoy.
Pam and I were just saying it's time for another candy order.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 21, 2024, 11:31:50 AMThat's going to be quit a "challenge", it will be fun seeing you put this one together Tom..... :)
Greg,
Yes, it is. After all it is a build challenge. 8)
I'm looking forward to the build also. Perhaps I should get some popcorn to go along with my Diet Pepsi. ;D
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on November 21, 2024, 08:40:04 PMGreat idea for a kit. When I worked in Palmerton, PA, there was a triangle shaped building up the street that I thought would make an interesting structure for a layout. The back of the building was against the train tracks. Should be fun to see what you come up with! ;D
Bob,
Thanks Butty, appreciate you coming by. I reserved a front row seat for you and the other SBGs. I have lots of ideas for this one and hope I can work them all in.
Tom
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on November 22, 2024, 12:30:11 PMHi Tom,
Glad to see your doing another build my friend. Have a great Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas this year. Talk with ya soon.
The Infamous Diet Pepsi Kid
;D ;D ;D
Cousin Brucie - AKA - The Imfamous Diet Pepsi Kid,
Yes, the Winter Challenge got my juices going. Figured I give it a try.
Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas my friend. And, yes, we will have a Patois soon.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 25, 2024, 03:00:15 PMQuote from: GPdemayo on November 21, 2024, 11:31:50 AMThat's going to be quit a "challenge", it will be fun seeing you put this one together Tom..... :)
Greg,
Yes, it is. After all it is a build challenge. 8)
I'm looking forward to the build also. Perhaps I should get some popcorn to go along with my Diet Pepsi. ;D
Tom
I'll join in the popcorn with an A&W root beer..... ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 26, 2024, 10:28:49 AMQuote from: ACL1504 on November 25, 2024, 03:00:15 PMQuote from: GPdemayo on November 21, 2024, 11:31:50 AMThat's going to be quit a "challenge", it will be fun seeing you put this one together Tom..... :)
Greg,
Yes, it is. After all it is a build challenge. 8)
I'm looking forward to the build also. Perhaps I should get some popcorn to go along with my Diet Pepsi. ;D
Tom
I'll join in the popcorn with an A&W root beer..... ;)
Greg,
Ah, yea, good old A&W Birch Beer root beer. Nothing better.
Tom
I used a plain #2 pencil and ruler to draw my store front design. No CAD Program was harmed in this endeavor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261124171542-531612307.jpeg)
That's a nice looking storefront, Tom. I can't wait to see it in three dimensions!
Matt
Looking forward to hearing how you construct your storefront. I've done well with combinations of small Evergreen strips, including half-round as well as rectangular shapes. Best, I think, to lay down the parts onto a single length of background strip, and then cut to length. My late brother the carpenter showed me how he would combine various simple molding wood strips to get a fancy look of Victorian trim.
dave
Quote from: restocarp on November 27, 2024, 07:02:49 AMThat's a nice looking storefront, Tom. I can't wait to see it in three dimensions!
Matt
Matt,
Thank you. Now I just have to make it and see how it looks in three dimensions.
This will be the hardest and most fun of the build.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on November 27, 2024, 03:55:42 PMLooking forward to hearing how you construct your storefront. I've done well with combinations of small Evergreen strips, including half-round as well as rectangular shapes. Best, I think, to lay down the parts onto a single length of background strip, and then cut to length. My late brother the carpenter showed me how he would combine various simple molding wood strips to get a fancy look of Victorian trim.
dave
Dave,
I have a few ideas about the store front build. It will be either Evergreen Styrene or File Folder paper.
When at the University of Florida, my major was Political Science as my parents wanted me to go to Law School. Out of rebellion, I changed my major to English Literature and then joined the Orlando Police Department. Go figure. 8)
However, if UF offered a four year degree in Carpentry, that would have been perfect. I've always enjoyed working with wood. Love the smell of cut lumber. This is why, even though I have a layout, structures are my passion.
Thanks for the comment.
Tom
I've had a change of mind on how I want the store front to look like.
First, I centered the window mullion over the left door. I also divided the two large upper window into three sections. These upper windows will have single colored stained glass instead of just plain glass as the two larger lower ones.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-271124173400.jpeg)
Provided for inspiration:
IMG_0376.jpeg
The piece over the door came from my box of misc parts, but that would be easy to create from Tichy/Grandt small corbels. The door itself was hacked from some Tichy castings. The pilasters on either side are half-round glued to styrene strip. The steps are more pieces of styrene strip, and the foundation was notched styrene strip.
dave
I have built a number of storefronts. It is all about adding layers. I like your idea of file folder. I might recommend using one piece of file folder for the entire storefront, encompassing both doors and all of the windows. Cut away the glass openings and start cladding the folder material with layers of your strip material. That way everything will stay in line and be less fiddly.
IMG_6926.jpeg
Matt
Hello Tom, can't wait to see your build. Any pictures I've seen of this shape of structure are always pretty tall. How tall will yours be ?
Very nicely done Tom, can't wait to see more...
Eric Quebec city
Quote from: deemery on November 27, 2024, 06:19:24 PMProvided for inspiration:
IMG_0376.jpeg
The piece over the door came from my box of misc parts, but that would be easy to create from Tichy/Grandt small corbels. The door itself was hacked from some Tichy castings. The pilasters on either side are half-round glued to styrene strip. The steps are more pieces of styrene strip, and the foundation was notched styrene strip.
dave
Dave,
Very very nicely done. I like using stuff from the misc. box.
On parts of this build I will be using Tichy parts as well as other manufacturers. I'll name them as I get further along in the build. I will also be using some styre3ne strips.
Thanks for sharing.
Tom
Quote from: restocarp on November 28, 2024, 02:38:48 PMI have built a number of storefronts. It is all about adding layers. I like your idea of file folder. I might recommend using one piece of file folder for the entire storefront, encompassing both doors and all of the windows. Cut away the glass openings and start cladding the folder material with layers of your strip material. That way everything will stay in line and be less fiddly.
IMG_6926.jpeg
Matt
Matt, I'm very familiar with your work on store fronts. Superior modeling for sure.
We are on the same page as far as the layering is concerned.
Aslo, thanks for the suggestion and it just confirms I'm on the correct path for the store front.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on November 29, 2024, 09:05:18 AMHello Tom, can't wait to see your build. Any pictures I've seen of this shape of structure are always pretty tall. How tall will yours be ?
Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the comment and the question. The structure will be either two or three stories. Haven't gone that far as yet. Above the store there will be apartments and rooms for railroad workers. This structure will be located across the tracks from the turntable and roundhouse.
Tom
Quote from: EricQuebec on November 30, 2024, 11:52:59 AMVery nicely done Tom, can't wait to see more...
Eric Quebec city
Eric,
Good to see you my friend. Its been awhile. I'll have lots to view as I go further in the build. I appreciate you following along.
Tom
Well the pressure is on now that two master storefront builders are in the audience. Matt (restocarp) and Eric (Eric Quebec City) are here. Thanks gents very much for following along on this adventure.
For the doors I cut the pattern out of the base material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165234-5316268.jpeg)
I'll use KC's Workshop corbel columns for the five storefront columns.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165234-531641911.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165234-531652020.jpeg)
I cut a second set of doors but cut out the two lower door panels. This will serve as a layer to the store doors. This feature gives me a little relief.
It also gives me some depth/thickness to the doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165235-5316680.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165235-53167147.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165330-531682024.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165330-53169977.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301124165330-531702440.jpeg)
Next I'll work on the two main lower windows and the windows on top. I'll use Evergreen styrene strips to frame the windows.
Done for today.
Tom,
Looks like I got here just in time to watch you build up the storefront. I find the storefront to be the biggest reason to buy a laser kit. I'm really looking forward to watching how you do this so I can apply what I learn to building storefronts from scratch, instead of relying mostly on laser kits for these parts of my structures.
Needless to say, I'll be following along even though I got here late...
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 02, 2024, 09:43:37 AMTom,
Looks like I got here just in time to watch you build up the storefront. I find the storefront to be the biggest reason to buy a laser kit. I'm really looking forward to watching how you do this so I can apply what I learn to building storefronts from scratch, instead of relying mostly on laser kits for these parts of my structures.
Needless to say, I'll be following along even though I got here late...
Jerry,
Happy to have you along on this one. You may find the next several post interesting. Multiple layered storefronts are a challenge. Laser printed ones from kits are very nice and all the work was done by the kit manufacturer. Since this is a scratch build, I'm going to do most of the work.
With the exception of KC's Workshop corbel columns, it is all cut from a file folder.
Again, thanks for taking the time to watch this build.
Tom
Doing layered storefronts might be sufficient justification for a Cricut or similar machine :)
dave
Okay, I tried something and didn't like what I did. So I did a do over.
In the third photo above you can see I cut the two end doors as separate doors. My idea was to then cut the center windows.
Well, I decided to build the overlay as one whole piece that fits over the base.
The next two photos show the new one piece overlay. I cut the bottom trim and started cutting the window openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164333-532331809.jpeg)
All top window openings now cut out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164333-532341589.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on December 02, 2024, 04:59:41 PMDoing layered storefronts might be sufficient justification for a Cricut or similar machine :)
dave
Dave,
You are correct but, I don't want to invest in one. I'll just stick to the old fashion was of doing it. For now anyway! 8)
Tom
The next photo shows my original drawing on top. The middle piece is the base and the bottom the overlay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164333-532351196.jpeg)
I used the overlay to outline the windows on the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164333-532361465.jpeg)
I used a metal ruler to draw in smaller window opening. This will give me a little material on the base that represents framing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164333-532372130.jpeg)
I then began to cut out the smaller window opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164416-532382266.jpeg)
The next photo shows the overlay now finished. Overlay on top and base on bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164416-53239181.jpeg)
Taking a Diet Pepsi break, back in a few.
I have the two pieces together in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164416-532402430.jpeg)
Here is how it will look with the corbe3l columns in place. I think the details of the two layers will look much better when painted and weathered. That will be next.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021224164416-532412489.jpeg)
Done for today.
That looks great, Tom! All of those little cuts! :o You have certainly earned that Diet Pepsi today!
Matt
Looking very nice, Tom.
Some very fiddly work executed extremely well.
Cheers, Mark.
How frequently do you change your knife blade? Are you using X-Acto #11, or maybe scalpels? That's a lot of very finicky work.
dave
Very nicely done.
Usually when I do this kind of work, I work only with stripwood, on a 1/32 basswood base,
I like doing that :)
Eric QUebec
Looking great as always Tom. Like I said, if I could model like you I wouldn't need a laser that is for sure. Really impressive.
Jim
Looking real good Tom..... 8)
Quote from: restocarp on December 02, 2024, 06:07:20 PMThat looks great, Tom! All of those little cuts! :o You have certainly earned that Diet Pepsi today!
Matt
Matt,
Thank you and yes, there were a lot of little cuts. It was a two Diet Pepsi day.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on December 02, 2024, 07:23:17 PMLooking very nice, Tom.
Some very fiddly work executed extremely well.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you for the kind compliment on the fiddly work. I appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on December 02, 2024, 07:30:04 PMHow frequently do you change your knife blade? Are you using X-Acto #11, or maybe scalpels? That's a lot of very finicky work.
dave
Dave,
Actually, I used only one blade for all the cutting. It's not like cutting the same pattern out of basswood. I probably would have used six or more blades for the wood.
I used the Xacto #11 blade for the file folder cutting.
Tom
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 02, 2024, 08:10:26 PMVery nicely done.
Usually when I do this kind of work, I work only with stripwood, on a 1/32 basswood base,
I like doing that :)
Eric QUebec
Eric,
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated. This is the first time I've done something like this but I can see why you like using basswood.
I'll try basswood the next time I scratch build a store front.
Tom
Quote from: Jim Donovan on December 03, 2024, 01:34:43 PMLooking great as always Tom. Like I said, if I could model like you I wouldn't need a laser that is for sure. Really impressive.
Jim
Jim,
Thank you for the generous compliment. I wish I know how to use a laser but then I'd never get the layout finished. 8)
Again, thank you for the thumbs up on the build.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 03, 2024, 03:31:52 PMLooking real good Tom..... 8)
Butty Greg,
Thank you my friend for stopping by and the compliment.
Tom
Okay, this morning I glued the two pieces together. I tried to make sure they fit but in the drying process, the top piece shifted slightly to the left.
I haven't decided if I'll cut two new pieces. I still have the window glass and stained glass to install and then I'll make a decision. Weathering may cover some of the shift.
For the yellow I used Floquil Wisc. Central Gold and Floquil Brunswick Green for the darker color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-031224170507-532441548.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 03, 2024, 04:50:38 PMQuote from: restocarp on December 02, 2024, 06:07:20 PMThat looks great, Tom! All of those little cuts! :o You have certainly earned that Diet Pepsi today!
Matt
Matt,
Thank you and yes, there were a lot of little cuts. It was a two Diet Pepsi day.
Tom
Dang Tom, if you got all that done with only two Diet Pepsi's, remind me to send you some more Diet Pepsi right way! Awesome job! The layering looks really cool. Did you need to seal your parts before you did all that cutting?
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on December 03, 2024, 10:13:27 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on December 03, 2024, 04:50:38 PMQuote from: restocarp on December 02, 2024, 06:07:20 PMThat looks great, Tom! All of those little cuts! :o You have certainly earned that Diet Pepsi today!
Matt
Matt,
Thank you and yes, there were a lot of little cuts. It was a two Diet Pepsi day.
Tom
Dang Tom, if you got all that done with only two Diet Pepsi's, remind me to send you some more Diet Pepsi right way! Awesome job! The layering looks really cool. Did you need to seal your parts before you did all that cutting?
Cousin Brucie,
Yes, only two of the 16.9 Fl. Oz bottles. I've been cutting back and drinking more water.
Thank you for the compliment. I didn't seal the file folder prior to cutting but I will seal them now that the paint has dried.
Tom
Now that I have the two layers glued together and painted I decided to seal them. As I mentioned, the storefront is made from a file folder. Since it is a paper product, I want to seal the paper as it we get quite a bit of humidity here in Central Florida.
Two years ago I found a new product at the local hobby shop. it is called Mr. Hobby and it comes in flat, matt and gloss.
It is a bit pricey and I've seen it on Amazon for close to $18 to $20 dollars a can. I got mine locally for about $12.00 a can.
I really like this product as it sprays very smoothly and seeks its own level as it dries. It dries to the touch in 30 minutes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171537-53245600.jpeg)
I turned the storefront over to install the lower windows. I used a product call Dura-lar. It an Acetate alternative.
I used 3M double sided transfer tape to attach the Dura-lar windows. I purchased the Dura-lar from Sam Falx Art Supply.
I cut a strip of tape and applied it to the back of the front wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171537-53246262.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171537-532471193.jpeg)
That Dura-Lar is new to me. I'll be interested to see the results.
dave
I then turned it over and cut out the tape as shown in the second photo below. I used the inside of the window panels as a guide to make the cuts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171538-532481079.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171538-5324978.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on December 04, 2024, 05:30:32 PMThat Dura-Lar is new to me. I'll be interested to see the results.
dave
Dave,
I've been using it for several years. Jeff Grove (Carolina Craftsman Kits) told me about it.
It is great, easy to use and cut. Also, the sheets are 9"X12". Perfect for large area windows.
Tom
I pealed the paper off the back of the tape and carefully laid the Dura-Lar on the tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171624-532502432.jpeg)
I laid a piece of paper over the front wall to keep my finger prints off the window material as I trimmed off the excess.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171624-532511826.jpeg)
The ten upper windows will have stained glass installed. I used the same method to add the stained glass. Refer to the two photos below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171624-532522457.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171538-5324978.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see the Dura-Lar glass in the lower windows and the tape over the top windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171624-532542215.jpeg)
A friend from Disney World gave me a sample of light filters they use at Disney to highlight certain scenes. This little pack hold 129 different color samples. I've had this pack of color filters for the past 45 years. This is what I use for stained glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171715-532561721.jpeg)
When the paper is removed from the tape, you can see that it is opaque. The color filters are clear. I didn't want to be able to see through the stained glass so I left the tape over the window openings.
I cut small squares of green, yellow, red and blue filters and pressed them to the back side of the tape.
In the next photo you can clearly see that you can't clearly see through the stained glass,
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171715-532551528.jpeg)
Back in a few. This calls for a Diet Pepsi break. ;D
I glued the five corbel columns to the front. I cut the top board from scrap lumber from my scrap wood box. The strip wood measures 3/32" in thickness. I painted it with Floquil Brunswick Green and when dry, glued the board to the top of the corbel columns.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171715-532571405.jpeg)
The storefront is basically finished with the exception of some weathering and the addition of door knobs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041224171715-532582182.jpeg)
I'll be working on the structure walls for the next few days so it may be several days prior to the next update.
Thanks to all who are following and as always comments are requested. I'm not offended by constructive criticism.
I think it looks awesome, Tom! I really like the colored glass detail.
I would recommend adding additional stripwood details. Window sills. Stiles, rails and raised panels to the broad space below the windows. An astragal dividing the door leaves. Defining the door jambs with a little strip that will separate the doors from the side lights. Once these little strips are added and then hit with a weathering drybrush, they will really pop and give the storefront even more detail. It's certainly not necessary, but a relatively easy step that will take this up to 11.
Matt
Tom,
I like what you did with the storefront. I'll be interested to see if you add the details Matt suggests...
A lot of great ideas packed in your explanation Tom. The? Mr Hobby clear coat, which type do you like best? I have been using a Krylon Matt Clear but wondering if the flat would be even better. Concerning the Dura Lar, how do you like it compared to the normal acetate, it looks great from the photos.
Love the progress, thanks for sharing.
Jim
Quote from: restocarp on December 05, 2024, 05:14:01 AMI think it looks awesome, Tom! I really like the colored glass detail.
I would recommend adding additional stripwood details. Window sills. Stiles, rails and raised panels to the broad space below the windows. An astragal dividing the door leaves. Defining the door jambs with a little strip that will separate the doors from the side lights. Once these little strips are added and then hit with a weathering drybrush, they will really pop and give the storefront even more detail. It's certainly not necessary, but a relatively easy step that will take this up to 11.
Matt
Matt,
Thanks very much for the suggestions. I do have astragal dividing on the doors but it is hard to see in the photos. I think the dark color hides it.
As far as the other changes, I'm working on them.
Again, thank you very much for the feedback.
Tom
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 05, 2024, 08:36:43 AMTom,
I like what you did with the storefront. I'll be interested to see if you add the details Matt suggests...
Jerry,
Thank you. I will be making some changes to the storefront.
Tom
Quote from: Jim Donovan on December 05, 2024, 09:23:37 AMA lot of great ideas packed in your explanation Tom. The? Mr Hobby clear coat, which type do you like best? I have been using a Krylon Matt Clear but wondering if the flat would be even better. Concerning the Dura Lar, how do you like it compared to the normal acetate, it looks great from the photos.
Love the progress, thanks for sharing.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for stopping by. I like the Mr. Hobby (gloss, matte and flat) coats. Honestly, Jim, if you think about it the Krylon may work but it isn't a hobby paint. I've used the Krylon primer but never the clear coat. Mr. Hobby is a hobby paint. I believe everything has scale. Mr. Hobby paint is fine and is perfect for modeling.
I like the Dura-Lar and have been using it for years. As stated, it is a great alternative to the acetate that comes in kits. As a scratch builder, I find that this is readily available.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 06, 2024, 09:19:57 AMQuote from: Jim Donovan on December 05, 2024, 09:23:37 AMA lot of great ideas packed in your explanation Tom. The? Mr Hobby clear coat, which type do you like best? I have been using a Krylon Matt Clear but wondering if the flat would be even better. Concerning the Dura Lar, how do you like it compared to the normal acetate, it looks great from the photos.
Love the progress, thanks for sharing.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for stopping by. I like the Mr. Hobby (gloss, matte and flat) coats. Honestly, Jim, if you think about it the Krylon may work but it isn't a hobby paint. I've used the Krylon primer but never the clear coat. Mr. Hobby is a hobby paint. I believe everything has scale. Mr. Hobby paint is fine and is perfect for modeling.
I like the Dura-Lar and have been using it for years. As stated, it is a great alternative to the acetate that comes in kits. As a scratch builder, I find that this is readily available.
Tom
Tom, why do you like the Dura-Lar better than conventional acetate (or clear styrene)?
Eventually, when I get around to the city part of my layout, I'll be needing a bunch of storefronts. So I'm enjoying seeing your techniques.
dave
Dave,
No special reason other than I can get 12, 9x12" sheets in a booklet for around $12.00 and it will last me a life time of modeling.
Dura-Lar is also acid free and has a high heat tolerance - not that I plan on burning it. 8)
I've had some Acetate windows in models discolor over the years and Dura-Lar doesn't.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Hello Tom, I'm enjoying your build. I like the idea of file folder paper for the storefront layers. I always learn from your build threads.
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 06, 2024, 09:52:36 AMDave,
No special reason other than I can get 12, 9x12" sheets in a booklet for around $12.00 and it will last me a life time of modeling.
Dura-Lar is also acid free and has a high heat tolerance - not that I plan on burning it. 8)
I've had some Acetate windows in models discolor over the years and Dura-Lar doesn't.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Yes, thanks!!
dave
Quote from: nycjeff on December 06, 2024, 12:56:08 PMHello Tom, I'm enjoying your build. I like the idea of file folder paper for the storefront layers. I always learn from your build threads.
Hey Jeff,
Thank you for the kind comment. This is the first time in my scratch builds I've used the layered file folder method.
I believe we all learn from each other here.
Tom
Today I made a couple of changes to the storefront to include the plate glass window sills and strip wood around the two main doors. I also redefined the astragal dividing the two doors and door sides.
I didn't add the stiles and rails to the two large windows as the yellow trim serves that purpose. The two lower panels below the windows are also trimmed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164806-532591531.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164806-532601957.jpeg)
The astragal is more defined now and the doors are trimmed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164806-53261343.jpeg)
I used the pointed end of a new toothpick dipped in Floquil Old Sliver and dotted the doorknobs.
I used Floquil Antique White to dry brush the entire store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164806-53262407.jpeg)
I will dust the lower portion of the storefront with pastels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164806-532631564.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164905-532641263.jpeg)
Very Nice!!
dave
I also began work on the two stories above the storefront. I'm using some spare clapboard siding from my lumber stash.
I trimmed the side to get it square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164905-532662130.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224170856-53273669.jpeg)
I used the metal square to ensure the sides, top and bottom were at 90 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164905-53265477.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on December 06, 2024, 05:10:39 PMVery Nice!!
dave
Dave,
Thank you, you much appreciated.
Tom
When I scratch build, I always keep and number a window or door plug with the Tichy model number for the next build.
I'm using Tichy windows #8069 for the windows on the front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224170243-532721208.jpeg)
I used the blank plug and centered several windows on the back side of the clapboard. Drawing on the backside is best as it is easier to cut out the windows. Cutting through and across the front of the clapboard is a little more tricksie.
Also, your pencil lines won't show through the paint as it would if you penciled on the front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164905-53267635.jpeg)
To ensure I get a nice clean cut, I use one blade for every two windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224164906-53268976.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224170243-532691056.jpeg)
On the upper row of windows, I decided to break up the window pattern and used a Tichy window #8042 for the center window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224170243-532701385.jpeg)
I haven't decided what I want to do with the roof so I left some clapboard on top - to be trimmed/cut later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061224170243-532712254.jpeg)
Done for today and probably until Monday.
Love it, Tom!
Matt
Zipping right along ole' friend..... 8)
Quote from: restocarp on December 07, 2024, 07:00:11 PMLove it, Tom!
Matt
Matt,
Thank you, I'm working on the walls now.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 08, 2024, 09:39:39 AMZipping right along ole' friend..... 8)
Greg,
Yepper, you are correct.
Tom
Today I worked on the short end wall section. I didn't think a solid wall here would look natural or look like the building would look like it had a solid end wall.
I decided to make another smaller storefront section and have this serve as the shorter end wall.
The file folder in the next photo is just a reference for me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224160700-5327476.jpeg)
I drew and cut the end wall as I did the main storefront wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224160700-532751552.jpeg)
After spending two hours drawing and cutting the new wall section, I realized I cut it to the incorrect size.
You can see it doesn't fit the slab area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224162010-532811798.jpeg)
So, back to drawing and cutting a newer wall section.
New wall on the left and the old new wall on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224160700-532761951.jpeg)
Back in few, Pam is needing some 1:1 stuff taken care of.
The bottom layer was painted with the same yellow and the top layer in the Brunswick Green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224160701-532781636.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224160701-532771710.jpeg)
Window and stained glass will be installed next. In the next photo you can see how it will look.
I have blue painters tape holding them for now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-091224160843-532791202.jpeg)
Done for today.
Hello Tom, you are doing some fine work here. I can't wait to see how this unique looking build progresses.
You are making some great progress, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
Looking great, Tom
terry
Hey Tom just getting caught up. Nice build so far.
Jerry
Quote from: nycjeff on December 10, 2024, 08:06:33 AMHello Tom, you are doing some fine work here. I can't wait to see how this unique looking build progresses.
Jeff,
Thanks for the comment and for stopping by. I'll have more to post later this afternoon.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on December 10, 2024, 01:19:03 PMYou are making some great progress, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you, this has been a fun scratch build.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on December 10, 2024, 02:17:31 PMLooking great, Tom
terry
Butty Terry,
Thanks, much appreciate you stopping by and posting a comment.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 18, 2024, 11:46:05 PMHey Tom just getting caught up. Nice build so far.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks my friend, appreciate you stopping by.
Tom
Today I finished cutting the four walls to the building. I started with the narrow wall over the end wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164249-533131364.jpeg)
I then turned it over and used the front wall as a guide for the correct placement of the two windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164250-533141660.jpeg)
I cut the two window openings for the narrow wall and will cut rear and larger end wall windows later.
I also finished the details on the smaller end storefront wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164250-53315842.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164250-53316345.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164250-533171193.jpeg)
The side end wall was placed next to the front wall. The top plate above the corbel columns needed to be trimmed to the correct angle.
In the nest photo you can see that I missed the angle on the shorter wall made an incorrect angle cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164334-53318905.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164335-53319747.jpeg)
The bad angle cut doesn't show in all the photos, but it is there.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164335-533201534.jpeg)
It doesn't look to bad in this next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164335-533212189.jpeg)
I moved the wall away so you can see the odd angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164335-533222402.jpeg)
I wasn't satisfied with angle so I removed the offending top board and cut a new one. I used the old top board as a pattern and this time made the correct cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164414-53323899.jpeg)
I glued the unpainted board in place and made a test fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164414-53324110.jpeg)
Now the new board is in place, fits and looks much better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164414-533252216.jpeg)
I painted it in place and I'm now happy with the redo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-211224164414-53326598.jpeg)
Done for today.
VERY nice, Tom. Those strange angles always look great when you get them worked out.
dave
Awesome build Tom! This scratch build is looking really good. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas and New Year.
And I hope your New Year is filled with Diet Pepsi!
8) 8) 8)
Hello Tom, I'm glad that you got the corner details worked out, it looks great. I'm looking forward to watching your build grow. Any ideas on building colors yet ?
Quote from: deemery on December 21, 2024, 06:56:21 PMVERY nice, Tom. Those strange angles always look great when you get them worked out.
dave
Dave,
Thanks, yes, the strange angles were a bit tricksie. Looks good now.
Tom
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on December 21, 2024, 10:17:06 PMAwesome build Tom! This scratch build is looking really good. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas and New Year.
And I hope your New Year is filled with Diet Pepsi!
8) 8) 8)
Cousin Brucie,
Good to see you and thanks for the compliment.
Pam and I wish you a very Merry Christmas as well. Not to worry, I have plenty of Diet Pepsi in my stash.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on December 22, 2024, 08:32:56 AMHello Tom, I'm glad that you got the corner details worked out, it looks great. I'm looking forward to watching your build grow. Any ideas on building colors yet ?
Jeff,
The corner trim was a little of a problem but I got it to fit correctly. I'm looking forward to the build growing as well. Seems like I've been on the lower storefront a long time.
I haven't settled on a final color yet but it will be light so it can take the weathering better and look like a building near a roundhouse/turntable area. I'm thinking something like Floquil Depot Buff, Foundation or Driftwood. Windows maybe off white of very light gray.
Tom
My plan for the larger end wall is to have a sign on the lower portion of the wall. There will be no windows on this portion of the wall. However, I will have windows on the second and third stories.
To get the windows centered, I found the middle point of the wall and drew a vertical line up the center.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141133-533271053.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141133-533282410.jpeg)
I then used the front wall and centered one of the windows over the vertical line.
I held it in place and drew in the window out lines for the six windows as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141134-53329759.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141134-533302060.jpeg)
I used a pencil to extend the horizontal lines on the top and bottom of the windows. These lines give me a guide where to stop the vertical cuts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141134-533311770.jpeg)
I used a metal ruler and cut along the vertical lines on each of the six windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141223-533321759.jpeg)
I then used a new #11 blade and cut the horizontal lines on the windows. The window blanks should then pop out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141223-533331758.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141223-533341420.jpeg)
Now I have the three walls, front and both sides with the windows cut in.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141224-533352108.jpeg)
I'm currently working on the rear wall and will have an update on that after Christmas.
It's starting to like a building, looking good Tom..... 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 24, 2024, 08:57:03 AMIt's starting to like a building, looking good Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks very much Butty. I'll have more to update this weekend.
Tom
Tom looks great so far.
Always nice to see a mistake and you go back and fix it!
It makes the next guy more careful.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 30, 2024, 12:02:25 AMTom looks great so far.
Always nice to see a mistake and you go back and fix it!
It makes the next guy more careful.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks you, much appreciated. Mistakes I can make and hopefully the repairs as well. ;D ;D
Tom
Time to work on the rear wall section. I want to have exterior stairs on this wall.
I need a set of stairs that will serve the second and third floors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141224-533361581.jpeg)
I don't want to cut the front of the wall section so I drew the two doors on the back. So the stairs are correct on the exterior, I needed to draw the doors and stairs on the opposite on the rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141304-53337887.jpeg)
Dang, I went and did it again. :-[ I cut the door size to large as you can see.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141304-533382425.jpeg)
For this fix, I used a 2X4 and glued it to one side if the door opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141304-53339512.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141304-533402404.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141304-53341406.jpeg)
Now this is much better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141339-533422206.jpeg)
I set the door in place to hold the 2X4 until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141339-53343142.jpeg)
Once dry, the 2X4 was cut and sanded flush to the rear of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231224141339-53344941.jpeg)
Back in a few, need to get a cold Diet Pepsi.
As I was still working on the rear wall, I added bracing to the front and two side walls. I used HO scale 8X8's for the wall bracing.
I've mentioned this on past builds but will do so here as well. I cut a piece of strip wood at an angle and use it to run along the edge of the bracing to remove any glue that may have squeezed out.
This isn't a necessary task but I like to have neat bracing on the interior even it it will never be seen.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150356-533591007.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150357-533612251.jpeg)
I extended the bracing on the front to cover the lower portion of the front wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150357-533621310.jpeg)
This also gives me an area to glue the lower wall to the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150357-533631850.jpeg)
Good move on the bracing to hold the shop fronts into position.
dave
Oops..... ::)
Tom, this scratch build will be a nice looking addition to the A&S RR !
Tommy
Quote from: deemery on December 30, 2024, 04:12:07 PMGood move on the bracing to hold the shop fronts into position.
dave
Dave,
Yea, it was pretty much a requirement for the support of the front.
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 01, 2025, 05:55:50 PMTom, this scratch build will be a nice looking addition to the A&S RR !
Tommy
Tommy,
Thanks you, much appreciated. I'm glad that I will be able to fit it into the area.
Tom
More mistakes Tom???? :o
I'm glad I'm not the only one that is prone to mistakes ;D
The outside staircase will make a great addition to the building. I'm assuming it is going to be an open staircase.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Ron,
Good to see you my friend. Yes, more mistakes. I think they come in bunches like bananas. I can't go many builds with none and then bang, one build and I have several. The good news is that I'm able to fix them. 8)
Yes, the staircase will be open.
Tom
Coming on nicely, Tom - mistakes and all.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on January 04, 2025, 06:15:53 PMComing on nicely, Tom - mistakes and all.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thanks very much. I show all, the good, the bad and hopefully there will be no ugly.
Tom
I finished cutting in the door and window openings on the rear wall section. You can see in the next photo that I was able to get the outside stair case in as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150528-53370733.jpeg)
This next step has been discussed both as to the pros and cons as well as the likes and dislikes of nail holes.
I like nail holes, but I've done it both ways. This structure will be a rundown building so I'm putting nail holes on the walls.
The one thing everyone agrees on with respect to nail holes on a model is that we all agree to disagree. ;D
I used a metal ruler and a ponce wheel from Micro Mark to add the nail impressions. The ponce wheels come three in a plastic holder. I used the smallest of the wheels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150357-533641872.jpeg)
Here is how a wall section looks after the nail holes have been pressed into the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150505-533651665.jpeg)
I then used Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix (A&I) to the walls. I only applied a light coat. I want this dark stain to show through the paint which will be added later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150505-53366838.jpeg)
This is how the walls look about 20 minutes after the A&I stain was applied to the walls. The rear wall was done also but not in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150505-533671053.jpeg)
Back in a few. Diet Pepsi time.
After the A&I stain dried, I used Floquil Weathered Black and painted the exposed vertical braces.
I'm on the fence as to whether or not to light the structure. Painting the braces will keep them from showing if I do light the lower storefront interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150505-5336839.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301224150506-533692065.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom,
For the record I'm against Nail holes, got to keep the argument going. ;D
The walls are looking great. As for the nail hole thing I find a lot of people over do it. In your case, there is enough nail holes to give the walls great character without them overpowering the model. Looking forward to the next update.
Hello Tom, you're making great progress with your build. It will be nice to see the building come together. This type of building has always interested me and I can't wait to see it in it's place on your layout.
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 07, 2025, 09:03:59 PMTom,
For the record I'm against Nail holes, got to keep the argument going. ;D
The walls are looking great. As for the nail hole thing I find a lot of people over do it. In your case, there is enough nail holes to give the walls great character without them overpowering the model. Looking forward to the next update.
Ron,
I understand and thanks for stopping by.
I also appreciate the compliment on the walls. The nail holes will also fade as more paint and weathering is added.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on January 08, 2025, 09:04:30 AMHello Tom, you're making great progress with your build. It will be nice to see the building come together. This type of building has always interested me and I can't wait to see it in it's place on your layout.
Jeff,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment. Your build is looking great as well.
Tom
Tom that building is coming along nicely. I agree with Ron about overdoing nail holes and yes I'm at advocate for them; looks like you have just enough to add a nice detail. Have fun.
Quote from: Larry C on January 09, 2025, 11:02:28 AMTom that building is coming along nicely. I agree with Ron about overdoing nail holes and yes I'm at advocate for them; looks like you have just enough to add a nice detail. Have fun.
Larry,
Thanks for the comment and compliment. Nail holes do look great and can certainly be over done.
Tom
I plan on having corbel trim at the top of the structure. For this I added a frieze board. Normally a frieze board would go flat against the top of the wall. I decided to add the frieze board to the top so the frieze board and wall are flush to each other.
I used 1/16" strip wood and cut a piece 3 scale feet in width.
To ensure I had a true 90 degree angle I used a plastic square I got at one of the Modeler's Expo, The square was an Expo freebie from Hal Reynolds of Atlantic Scale Modelers.
What I thought was square, wasn't.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154702-53463982.jpeg)
I used a metal square and trimmed the end square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154702-53464508.jpeg)
After gluing it to the top of the wall, I stained it with the A&I and let it thoroughly dry overnight.
Not stained in the next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154702-534651684.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
I chose a base wall color of Floquil Depot Buff.
I wanted a very thin wash so the A&I would also show through the paint. I dipped a soft bristle brush into thinner and then only the tip of the brush into the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154703-53466696.jpeg)
I brushed this on the wall following the horizontal cut of the wall boards.
While the paint was still wet, I used a paper towel and wiped any wet paint from the wall.
This thinned the wall paint a little more.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154703-53467908.jpeg)
Referring to the photo above, you can see a very slight difference in the wall color on the bottom as opposed to the top where the paint was wiped off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154737-53468458.jpeg)
Here is how the walls look after the paint dried overnight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154737-534702249.jpeg)
This next view shows the other two walls without the LED light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154737-534691893.jpeg)
Done for today.
Looking good Uncle Tommie!
8) 8) 8)
You're coming along nicely with this build. Like the color you chose.
Rich
Tom,
Walls are coming along nicely, they got that grungy "I haven't been painted in decades" look, I like it.
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 10, 2025, 05:22:15 PMLooking good Uncle Tommie!
8) 8) 8)
Glad to see you back Cousin Brucie..... :)
It was especially nice to see this build up close snd personal this morning. Well done/doing, Tom
terry
Enjoyong this build, Tom. A great kit with some nice additions - that stain glass in the shop front looks great!
Tom those walls look fantastic; keep up the great work.
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 10, 2025, 05:22:15 PMLooking good Uncle Tommie!
8) 8) 8)
Cousin Brucie,
Good to see you my friend! Thank you for the comment and have a cold Diet Pepsi on me.
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 10, 2025, 05:50:31 PMQuote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 10, 2025, 05:22:15 PMLooking good Uncle Tommie!
8) 8) 8)
What he said! ;D
Butty Bob,
Thank you also. I had fun yesterday and much thanks for the Pancake Diner.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on January 11, 2025, 12:43:03 AMYou're coming along nicely with this build. Like the color you chose.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the compliment. The Floquil Depot Buff wash over the Light Gray A&I turned out very well.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 11, 2025, 08:41:16 AMTom,
Walls are coming along nicely, they got that grungy "I haven't been painted in decades" look, I like it.
Ron,
The walls are grungy for sure, just the way I like them. However, I'm not done with them yet. I have a few more tricks.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on January 11, 2025, 06:16:38 PMIt was especially nice to see this build up close snd personal this morning. Well done/doing, Tom
terry
Butty Terry,
Your kind comment is very much appreciated. Thank you.
I had fun yesterday.
Tom
Quote from: Keep It Rusty on January 12, 2025, 01:53:34 AMEnjoyong this build, Tom. A great kit with some nice additions - that stain glass in the shop front looks great!
Craig,
Thank you for the comment. I kind of wish this was a kit. The stained glass does add a bit more to the overall appearance.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on January 12, 2025, 11:22:34 AMTom those walls look fantastic; keep up the great work.
Larry,
Thank you for the compliment. I'm still at it.
Tom
The rear of the Flat Iron will have an outside stair case. There are stair stringers available commercially if you chose to go that route. Many years ago I was scratch building a structure for a contest and the commercially ones weren't available. I didn't have time to wait.
I decided to scratch build my own stringers. The photo below is of the scratch built stringers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125125949-534718.jpeg)
Here's what I learned from the experience. I'm sharing it here to save you some aggravation if you ever want to try your hand at scratch building some stair stringers.
I thought 2X8s would be large enough to cut the stringers. Not so, as it didn't leave me much for the steps and they were to fragile.
I then tried 2X10s and again, not good either for the same reason.
I then went to 2X12's and bingo, perfect. BTW, a 1:1 stringer is also made from 2X12s.
The next photo shows a short piece of stringer I made several years ago. I used this as a pattern/template for the Flat Iron stringers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125131739-53481876.jpeg)
Here is a photo of some stair stringers from Micro Mark. I've had these for several years and never used them. After measuring them, I found they were basically HO scale 1X6s, They are very fragile and flimsy.
You get what you pay for here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125133018-534822338.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time of course.
If you don't mind me giving some free advise, I'll say that if you aren't the patient type, don't cut your own stringers. The cutting needs to be precise and carefully done. It takes me a little over an hour to cut a 10 inch stringer from the HO scale 2X12s. I cut two 10 inch pieces.
Using my template piece, I started cutting the stringers from Northeastern Scale Lumber 2X12s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125125949-534731861.jpeg)
You can see in the photo above that one angle piece split from the stringer.
All is not lost, just use the end of a toothpick and glue the split piece back on the stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125125949-534741773.jpeg)
The next photo shows another piece missing. I didn't worry about this one as the stringer was long enough for my use on the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125125949-534751413.jpeg)
Here is how the stringer looks when cutting with an Xacto #11 blade. I should add here a fresh #11 blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125125949-53476933.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125130042-534771102.jpeg)
The pencil is pointing to the broken piece and not interfering with stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125130042-534782285.jpeg)
Again, patience grasshopper, patience!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125130043-534791210.jpeg)
You don't need to be perfect. My stringers are on a structure that is supposed to be old and worn with little or no maintenance.
A bad cut can also look like a rotten section on the stringer.
My stringers are cut as you can see in the next photo. Next, I'll weather the stringers and cut some steps and railing posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120125130043-534801013.jpeg)
Done for today.
"Patience, grasshopper, Patience!" And a fresh X-Acto knife blade!!
dave
Okay Tom, Inquiring minds want to know, how many #11 blades did those stringers take? 8)
The stringers look great, well worth the time and effort.
Quote from: deemery on January 12, 2025, 02:11:54 PM"Patience, grasshopper, Patience!" And a fresh X-Acto knife blade!!
dave
Dave,
Exactly, a fresh #11 is a requirement.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 12, 2025, 04:03:44 PMOkay Tom, Inquiring minds want to know, how many #11 blades did those stringers take? 8)
The stringers look great, well worth the time and effort.
Ron,
Thank you for the compliment on the stringers.
Only two blade were used here. The tip did all the cutting and it wears out fast for this type cutting.
Tom
Tom,
You are absolutely a determined individual to possess dexterity in the cutting of your stringers.
I too, have cut my own and patience is required. I hate it when I get hasty and slice a piece off where it shouldn't be.
Great modeling and an excellent How-to. Thanks for sharing your skills.
Rich
Hi Tom.
Maybe check out here
https://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-laserwood.html
for your next order. They do stringers at several different gradients along with treads (and in several different scales).
I, too, have done my own stringers in a pinch, but did not enjoy it or find it very good value for money. I found it hard to get things accurate enough to meet my quality control and found I had to be very selective with choosing my 2x12's with very straight grain, to avoid too many breakages. The different gradients is also a welcome addition, as 45 degrees is rather steep for most stairs. Another option (if persisting on making your own) is to make the stringers from plastic and paint them to match your stained timber. I've had good results doing this with a grey primer followed up with adding soft pastel chalks mixed into a slurry with isopropyl alcohol using elephant, cool grey and (storm?) blue. These are fixed with a pastel/ pencil fixative - not dullcote - which dissolves most of the chalk. I do the same sometimes on timber, but apply with a fibre glass pencil.
Cheers, Mark.
Hello Tom, great job on the stairway stringers. I can't believe that you cut them yourself. I wouldn't have the patience. Exposed stairways add so much to a structure. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Nice job as usual.
Personally, I used always X-Acto N17 blade for this job. It work well and broke less stringer than N11 blade (in my opinion).
The second way to avoid any brokage, is to glue (with scholar stick glue) a template on the wood, and once all the stringer cut off, remove the template with a little bit of water (tested nd approved by myself :D )
Eric
Quote from: Pennman on January 14, 2025, 05:05:48 PMTom,
You are absolutely a determined individual to possess dexterity in the cutting of your stringers.
I too, have cut my own and patience is required. I hate it when I get hasty and slice a piece off where it shouldn't be.
Great modeling and an excellent How-to. Thanks for sharing your skills.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks for the comment and for stopping by. This is the last scratch build on the stringers for me. As I mentioned, I've done it several times but will use commercial stringers in the future to save me time.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on January 14, 2025, 06:29:16 PMHi Tom.
Maybe check out here
https://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-laserwood.html
for your next order. They do stringers at several different gradients along with treads (and in several different scales).
I, too, have done my own stringers in a pinch, but did not enjoy it or find it very good value for money. I found it hard to get things accurate enough to meet my quality control and found I had to be very selective with choosing my 2x12's with very straight grain, to avoid too many breakages. The different gradients is also a welcome addition, as 45 degrees is rather steep for most stairs. Another option (if persisting on making your own) is to make the stringers from plastic and paint them to match your stained timber. I've had good results doing this with a grey primer followed up with adding soft pastel chalks mixed into a slurry with isopropyl alcohol using elephant, cool grey and (storm?) blue. These are fixed with a pastel/ pencil fixative - not dullcote - which dissolves most of the chalk. I do the same sometimes on timber, but apply with a fibre glass pencil.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I agree, they are difficult to get/make so they look accurate. I did consider using styrene for stringers, but went with the wood for nothing else than better weathering.
I've ordered some NESL stringers for future builds.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on January 15, 2025, 08:24:46 AMHello Tom, great job on the stairway stringers. I can't believe that you cut them yourself. I wouldn't have the patience. Exposed stairways add so much to a structure. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Jeff,
Thanks for the compliment. I've done so many it isn't a big deal for me anymore. I will use "store bought" ones in the future. 8)
I think these will look really good on the back of the building.
Tom
Quote from: EricQuebec on January 15, 2025, 05:09:01 PMNice job as usual.
Personally, I used always X-Acto N17 blade for this job. It work well and broke less stringer than N11 blade (in my opinion).
The second way to avoid any brokage, is to glue (with scholar stick glue) a template on the wood, and once all the stringer cut off, remove the template with a little bit of water (tested nd approved by myself :D )
Eric
Eric,
I've also used the #17 blade but prefer to use the #11, personal preference I guess.
I've never thought of the paper template on the wood using the glue stick. I think it would work very well.
Tom
For my sign I used an old sign from another kit. The Riff Raff Cafe is a structure on George Sellios' F&SM layout.
I glued it to a piece of cardboard. The cardboard is the back of a legal pad.
After gluing it to the cardboard, I placed a weight over it and let it sit overnight to dry. Since the while glue is water-soluble and the sign and cardboard are paper, I didn't want any warpage when I came out the next morning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154524-534511457.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154524-534542439.jpeg)
The following morning I removed the weight and cut the bottom portion of the cardboard from the bottom of the sign as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154525-534551517.jpeg)
I used a new Emory board to lightly weather the sign. I used the rough side and pulled the Emory board across the sign from the top to bottom. I used several light strokes on the sign. This can be overdone if not careful with the pressure used.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154525-534561778.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154525-534571056.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154615-53458405.jpeg)
I painted a piece of HO scale 2 X 4 with full strength Floquil Weathered Black. I cut and glued it to the outside edges of the cardboard.
I'll add more weathering using pastels, when I'm ready attach the sign to the front of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154615-534611925.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100125154615-53462220.jpeg)
This is how it will look and fit on the front of the structure. Nothing is glued yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180125171104-53487255.jpeg)
Lookin' good, Tom. Cutting your own stair stringers, no wonder you're a master craftsman.
I can't believe someone in law enforcement would have a "legal pad". ;D
Jeff
Was able to enjoy catching up on your build tonight Tom, really enjoyable watching you work and seeing your methods. Not sure I would have the patience to make stringers though!
Jim
So I'm betting that many "Diet Pepsi's" where consumed while cutting out those stair stringers. Good thing we don't include that cost in with our modeling work...
8) 8) 8)
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 18, 2025, 08:42:08 PMLookin' good, Tom. Cutting your own stair stringers, no wonder you're a master craftsman.
I can't believe someone in law enforcement would have a "legal pad". ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you, much appreciate the very generous compliment on the stringers.
The last couple of years at the State's Attorney's Office, I went around to all the offices and asked them to save all the backs of their legal pads. After a few months I had over two hundred. I had to call a stop to my request.
I thought the cardboard pads would make great roof material as well as floors on multiple story structures.
Tom
Quote from: Jim Donovan on January 18, 2025, 08:59:17 PMWas able to enjoy catching up on your build tonight Tom, really enjoyable watching you work and seeing your methods. Not sure I would have the patience to make stringers though!
Jim
Jim,
Happy to have you following along and very happy to hear you are enjoying the build.
Since I'm scratch building all I can for the flat iron, I figured the stringers would be a good one to do. However, as I mentioned above in other posts, I've now had my fun and this will be the last set of stringers I cut.
Tom
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 19, 2025, 01:05:21 AMSo I'm betting that many "Diet Pepsi's" where consumed while cutting out those stair stringers. Good thing we don't include that cost in with our modeling work...
8) 8) 8)
Cousin Brucie,
Good to see you again. I'm not sure how many were consumed during the stair stringer cutting, but many have been consumed for the entire build.
I get my Diet Pepsi from Winn Dixie. They have sales on Fridays, 5 six packs for $15. Can't beat that deal. That makes it 50 cents per 16.9 Fl Oz. per bottle. Just saying.
Tom
I glued the right side storefront wall the the front. This was a bit "tricksie" as I needed to get the angle correct. To do this required a little filing and sanding here and there.
I also glued the front wall to the top of the storefront. Notice that I removed the frieze boards. I'll add them later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130730-534881224.jpeg)
I decided to add lighting to the storefront interior to show off the stained glass. Once the walls are all together, the stained glass won't show like it does now with the four walls together.
Lighting the lower storefront interior will also require a floor pattern.
I found on line a tile floor pattern I liked.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130821-534962061.jpeg)
I printed 10 copies of the pattern and sized them to look normal on the floor. I also lightened the black squares so they didn't look so stark black.
Since the base is wood and the floor pattern is paper, I didn't want to use a water based glue. Instead, I used 3M double sided transfer tape.
I applied the tape to the floor and then cut out the tile pattern to be place on the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130730-534891965.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130730-534902308.jpeg)
The floor pattern I sized turned out to be the same width as the transfer tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130731-53491902.jpeg)
Time for a cold Diet Pepsi. I'll get one for Cousin Brucie as well.
I applied the pattern to the base and then trimmed it to the size of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130731-53492345.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130820-53493693.jpeg)
Here is how it looks looking through the front windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130821-534951598.jpeg)
A rear view.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130820-53494955.jpeg)
Tom,
Great progress on the build, I like the floor tile pattern, it fits the era of the building.
I love 3m's double sided transfer tape, I use it all the time to add the roofing to my buildings.
While test fitting the left side wall, I noticed it was warped.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200125153351-53500654.jpeg)
I used HO scale 8 X 8s for the interior bracing but obviously they weren't strong enough.
I removed the offending braces and sanded the area clean. It was only necessary to remove the two outside braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130953-53499642.jpeg)
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 20, 2025, 02:10:31 PMTom,
Great progress on the build, I like the floor tile pattern, it fits the era of the building.
I love 3m's double sided transfer tape, I use it all the time to add the roofing to my buildings.
Ron,
Thank you and I agree. When saw this pattern I knew it was the correct one for the Victorian Flat Iron.
3M transfer tape sure is a life saver in more ways than one. ;D
Tom
I used HO scale 12 X 12s and glued them in place.
I weighed them down and let sit over night for the glue to dry and cure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130821-53497731.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130900-534981524.jpeg)
I removed the weights and trimmed the excess 12 X 12s.
Now the wall is straight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200125153351-53501776.jpeg)
Done for today.
The tiles are wonderful. As for the warpage, see problem, solve problem.
Great thread. I'm learning.
Quote from: Mr. Critter on January 20, 2025, 06:10:36 PMThe tiles are wonderful. As for the warpage, see problem, solve problem.
Great thread. I'm learning.
Critter,
Thank you and I'm happy to have you follow along on the build. I'm still learning things as well.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 19, 2025, 12:35:40 PMQuote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 19, 2025, 01:05:21 AMSo I'm betting that many "Diet Pepsi's" where consumed while cutting out those stair stringers. Good thing we don't include that cost in with our modeling work...
8) 8) 8)
Cousin Brucie,
Good to see you again. I'm not sure how many were consumed during the stair stringer cutting, but many have been consumed for the entire build.
I get my Diet Pepsi from Winn Dixie. They have sales on Fridays, 5 six packs for $15. Can't beat that deal. That makes it 50 cents per 16.9 Fl Oz. per bottle. Just saying.
Tom
Wow, I wish we had Winn Dixie stores out here in Idaho. That's a great price. My best price is for 2 LTR bottles at around $2 apiece.
Before I glue the walls together, I wanted to add one sign to the left wall. The Cocoa-Cola sign is one left over from an old kit. I always make copies of all colored signs from any kit I build. This way I have a back up if necessary and also have a file for signs I can use later on other builds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165056-535491588.jpeg)
To make the sign thinner, I use 150 grit fine sandpaper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165056-535502078.jpeg)
I turn the sign over so the sign is face down. I take the sandpaper and gently pull it down from the top.
I'll do this until I see a fine white dusting of the paper at the bottom of the sign and on the cutting pad.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165056-535511899.jpeg)
I turn the sign back over, face up, and repeat this process. I let my eyes be the guide as to how much of the color I want removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165209-53553741.jpeg)
Here is how it looks after a few times pulling the sandpaper down from the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125170822.jpeg)
The sign will fit here, see below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165209-53554543.jpeg)
I taped the outside edges of the sign location on the wall. This will also give me a guide when gluing the sign to the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165209-53555290.jpeg)
I then sprayed a flat coat on the wall using Mr. Hobby Flat. This flat is very thin when sprayed and seals the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165209-535562072.jpeg)
I noticed the flat brought out the nail holes as well. Compare the bottom to the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125171707.jpeg)
I mixed white glue with water and painted it on the wall. I also dipped the sign in warm water to soften the paper. I've found that by pipping a sign in warm water allows the glue to become part of the sign. When it dries the sign and glue are one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165301-535581070.jpeg)
I centered the sign between the blue tape and gently pressed it into the glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165301-535592038.jpeg)
I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then used a toothpick to press the sign further into the random siding.
NOTE: I'm using the edge of the toothpick and not the point. This is safe as if you use the point, you will most likely tear the paper and you will have one heck of a time trying to get it fixed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165301-535602283.jpeg)
Here is how the sign looks after drying. I still need to add a few pastels for additional weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240125165301-535611893.jpeg)
Tom,
Great work on the sign. When I use this technique I always have a spare sign available, because if I don't I'm guaranteed to screw up the sign thinning process. I learned this trick the hard way ;D .
Ron,
Thanks for the comment and for stopping by. I also learned this lesson the hard way.
Tom
Neat process. I always wondered how that was done. Now I know. Thanks for the SBS.
Bernd
Quote from: Bernd on January 25, 2025, 09:43:32 AMNeat process. I always wondered how that was done. Now I know. Thanks for the SBS.
Bernd
Bernd,
Thank you and you are welcome. Happy to have you following along.
Tom
I added the narrow wall to the side of the storefront. As the glue was drying, I made sure the top of the walls were level to each other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124302-535662483.jpeg)
It was extremely hard to get a good fit on the walls due to the angle. However, I have a fix for this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124302-5356729.jpeg)
In addition to getting the upper side wall to fit the front wall, I also needed to align the lower portion canopy board as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124302-535681026.jpeg)
Since the corner boards on the rest of the build are 1 X 4s. I stained and painted 1 X 4s to use as the corner boards.
These covered the wall gap and cleaned up the look of the angles not matching.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124302-535692473.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124302-53570767.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124403-53571109.jpeg)
I then added the frieze boards to the top of the two walls. This was another difficult angle to get the two boards flush. I got them fairly close but I had a fix for this also. This is a trick I've never shared in the past.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124428-535762111.jpeg)
I took a wooden toothpick and shaved both sides of the end. A wood version of a putty knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125132336-535771592.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125132336-535781509.jpeg)
I used the wood putty knife to press in some glue in the gap area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124403-53572465.jpeg)
After the glue set for about 20 minutes, I shaved the tacky glue with a #11 Xacto blade. I then touched up the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124404-53573930.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260125124404-535742116.jpeg)
If you are wondering why not just fill the gap with pant. Here's why you don't want to do that.
The paint is thin and the glue much thicker. Using paint will of course fill the gap after a fashion (multiple layers) but it will also add more paint on top of the already painted frieze boards on each side of the gap.
The glue fills the gap and can be shaved smooth without damaging the painted boards. A little paint on the glue is all you need to finish the fix.
Done for today.
Vallejo makes an acrylic putty in a small squeeze tube with a narrow needle top, that works great for filling small cracks.
I like the flat toothpicks for filing into a very thin putty knife end, but those are kinda hard to find in our stores. I ended up ordering them from Amazon.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 26, 2025, 02:05:52 PMVallejo makes an acrylic putty in a small squeeze tube with a narrow needle top, that works great for filling small cracks.
I like the flat toothpicks for filing into a very thin putty knife end, but those are kinda hard to find in our stores. I ended up ordering them from Amazon.
dave
Dave,
I have some green squadron putty I could have used. I felt it was to thick for my purpose.
I used the #11 Xacto blade to make my wood putty toothpick.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 20, 2025, 01:22:25 PMThe floor pattern I sized turned out to be the same width as the transfer tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130731-53491902.jpeg)
Time for a cold Diet Pepsi. I'll get one for Cousin Brucie as well.
Thanks Tom. There's always time for another Diet Pepsi especially with a good friend.
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 27, 2025, 12:18:36 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on January 20, 2025, 01:22:25 PMThe floor pattern I sized turned out to be the same width as the transfer tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190125130731-53491902.jpeg)
Time for a cold Diet Pepsi. I'll get one for Cousin Brucie as well.
Thanks Tom. There's always time for another Diet Pepsi especially with a good friend.
Cousin Brucie,
Nothing says friendship like sharing a nice cold Diet Pepsi. ;D
Tom
I glued the left side wall to the front as shown. I also added the corner trim as I did the other side wall trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270125155857-53605154.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270125155857-536062126.jpeg)
I fit the rear wall to the back and placed the flat iron on the layout to see how it looks and fits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270125155857-53607257.jpeg)
Looking north -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270125155857-536081010.jpeg)
NOTE: The rear wall isn't glued in place yet. I have much more to do first.
Bird's eye view looking south.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270125155857-536092232.jpeg)
Trackside view.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270125155922-536101996.jpeg)
Done for today.
That's looking pretty dang cool Uncle Tommy! Are you planning on finishing up the scenery in that area after this building is put in place?
8) 8) 8)
That's coming together very nicely, Tom!
Matt
Coming on nicely, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey Tom that is really looking great. I like the glue trick for filling in.
The floor perfect!
Jerry
Tom,
It's looking good, it also looks like you are going to need some sort of interior on the ground floor.
Tom, this build certainly looks familiar. ;D
I'll be here to watch and learn.
Looking good Tom..... 8)
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on January 29, 2025, 12:30:13 AMThat's looking pretty dang cool Uncle Tommy! Are you planning on finishing up the scenery in that area after this building is put in place?
8) 8) 8)
Brucie,
Thank you and yes, I'll add more scenery to the area where this one will occupy some real estate.
Tom
Quote from: restocarp on January 29, 2025, 05:08:20 AMThat's coming together very nicely, Tom!
Matt
Matt,
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on January 29, 2025, 02:01:12 PMComing on nicely, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you very much.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on January 31, 2025, 10:16:06 AMHey Tom that is really looking great. I like the glue trick for filling in.
The floor perfect!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the compliment. I've used the glue trick many times but never shared the idea until now.
The floor came out nicely.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 31, 2025, 03:57:55 PMTom,
It's looking good, it also looks like you are going to need some sort of interior on the ground floor.
Ron,
I appreciate the comment. There will be some interior on the ground floor as a small portion of the floor will be seen by visitors when it is on the layout.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 31, 2025, 07:52:39 PMTom, this build certainly looks familiar. ;D
I'll be here to watch and learn.
Rick,
Yes, it should. I've been posting it on both forums. I'm sad that RR Lines is gone but happy in that it will save me lots of time in posting there. The Modeler's Forum was the first and only forum I participated on until the first and second version were closed.
If the RR Lines restarts, I plan to stay here and not go back and forth.
Tom
You have come a long way since I last saw this project. Everything looks good from here.
Your glue stick is a great way of doing that part without marring up the adjacent sides. Thanks
Rich
Quote from: Pennman on February 03, 2025, 09:47:45 PMYou have come a long way since I last saw this project. Everything looks good from here.
Your glue stick is a great way of doing that part without marring up the adjacent sides. Thanks
Rich
Rich,
Thank you kind sir for the comment and compliment. This has really been a fun build as well as challenging.
Tom
I'm way behind on the updates here but I'll share some of what I'm been doing.
I needed a ceiling for the first floor as I've decided to light it so the interior and stained glass transom will show in a better light.
I turned the structure upside down and track the inside of the walls. I then cut the cardboard on the trace lines.
I notched where the bracing was and test fit it in place. Nice tight fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160238-541621156.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160238-54163194.jpeg)
I glued a frieze board trim to the top of the frieze board. I didn't have the size I wanted so I laminated two 2X6s. I stained and painted them first prior to the lamination.
I started with the longest trim board, which is on the front. I glued it in place and used cloths pins to hold it while the glue dried. No photo of this.
I left plenty of board so I could trim it to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160238-541662500.jpeg)
When the glue dried, I turned it over and used a new single edge razor blade to trim the board. I used the angle of the side wall as a guide for the cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160328-54167708.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160328-54168662.jpeg)
I then repeated this process for the two sides. I used a pencil to mark the length giving my self some extra length. I applied glued between the pencil lines. Again, I used clothes pins to hold the board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160328-541701784.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160328-541712401.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160328-54169800.jpeg)
I'll tough up the paint on the cut ends of the trim boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160238-541651871.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160238-541642293.jpeg)
Here is a very good look at the frieze board trim from the top. Nice and neat.
I plan to add corbels to the frieze boards just below the trim.
You can also see the two laminated boards from this angle. There will be a top plate so this detail won't show.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070225160351-541721103.jpeg)
Done for today.
Howdy Tom, nice miters. The flat iron structure is coming together well. Have fun, mike
Tom, two good ideas here on cutting out the ceiling and for cutting trim pieces using the walls as a guide.
Nice clean work Tom! That had to be a pain notching all those timbers to accept the floor?
Tom,
It's really nice that you show all of your individual steps with each new addition. Sometimes when doing an article I don't cover everything, such as normal procedures though. It makes for a lengthy build, but you seem to know what you're doing so I won't babble on here. Nice modeling.
Rich
Quote from: friscomike on February 07, 2025, 07:25:47 PMHowdy Tom, nice miters. The flat iron structure is coming together well. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you kind sir and I'm still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 07, 2025, 07:32:14 PMTom, two good ideas here on cutting out the ceiling and for cutting trim pieces using the walls as a guide.
Rick,
Thanks for stopping by and commenting, much appreciated. Cutting the trim this way removes all doubt about the angle to cut.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on February 07, 2025, 09:11:15 PMNice clean work Tom! That had to be a pain notching all those timbers to accept the floor?
Philip,
Thank you. I just marked the braces and then made a little notch test it as I cut the notches.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on February 08, 2025, 02:31:17 AMTom,
It's really nice that you show all of your individual steps with each new addition. Sometimes when doing an article I don't cover everything, such as normal procedures though. It makes for a lengthy build, but you seem to know what you're doing so I won't babble on here. Nice modeling.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks very much. I enjoy the SBS narration on the builds but I try to keep it short and to the point. I don't like to read a screed when reading others.
Tom
Beautiful job on the build Tom. You always have very precise cuts.
Tom,
WOW!!!!!! :o That is one tight corner on the angle there, you sure you want to hide that?
Great progress there, I to am glad that you are doing this step by step, lots to learn on this thread.
Tom some of the finest cuts I've ever seen!!
Your attention to detail is amazing!
Jerry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 08, 2025, 12:24:51 PMBeautiful job on the build Tom. You always have very precise cuts.
Curt,
Thank you Butty, much appreciated. Pam said I should have been a surgeon. Trouble is I cut to many classes at UF. 8)
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 08, 2025, 12:44:15 PMTom,
WOW!!!!!! :o That is one tight corner on the angle there, you sure you want to hide that?
Great progress there, I to am glad that you are doing this step by step, lots to learn on this thread.
Ron,
Thanks very much for the very kind compliment. I enjoy the step by step process.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 08, 2025, 01:06:04 PMTom some of the finest cuts I've ever seen!!
Your attention to detail is amazing!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you also. The details are important in some areas of a build. This one has plenty.
Tom
Since I decided to light the bottom floor, which also is the cafe, I chose 3mm (millimeter) Warm White LEDs.
These have two prongs on the bottom of the LED. For those not familiar with LEDs, the longest prong is the positive and the shorter one is negative.
After bracing the bottom of the ceiling section, I punched holes near the front and added six 3mm LED. I epoxied them in place so they stay put.
I marked on the top of the ceiling a + for positive and a - for negative.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080225160841-541921611.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080225160841-541932225.jpeg)
For the past 15+ years several of us here in the Saturday Butty Group have been using Slim's Current Limiters. Slim is a nickname for Bill Satore. Bill is the owner of Micro-Lumina and also the owner of all the FSM casting molds. Bill also took over Jimmy Deignan's railroadkits models.
www.railroadkits.com
The next photo shows two current limiters. There is a flat side and a rounded side. When looking at the current limiter from the flat side, the left side is the + positive .
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080225160841-541941972.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
Tom, That should be "Lit up like Levy's"
https://armdthornton.wordpress.com/category/levy-building/
Philip
All my wiring is on the top of the ceiling panel. The wires will feed down between the interior wall and exterior rear walls.
I forgot to mention how the current limiter works.
Using the current limiters, removes all questions about what wattage resistor you need to light the LEDs. One current limiter rates from 9 to 99 volts. It is very hard to burn out a current limiter. I've never burned one in 15+ years.
Slim gave this cheat sheet out at one of his clinics. The diagram shows two and four LEDs. However, you can use three (3) LEDs with one current limiter as I did for this build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080225165024-541991734.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080225160914-541972327.jpeg)
Quote from: Philip on February 08, 2025, 04:36:27 PMTom, That should be "Lit up like Levy's"
https://armdthornton.wordpress.com/category/levy-building/
Philip
Philip,
What a great photo with Levy's lit up. To bad it wasn't in color.
Tom
Here is how the cafe looks all lit. Now I will have to add interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080225160914-541981427.jpeg)
Woo Hoo!
I got a chance to talk to Slim Sartore a bit at Springfield. His day job is definitely interfering with the hobby business :-)
dave
Tom, another great update.
Thanks for sharing how you do lighting and the current limiter.
Things are looking very bright at the Flat Iron.
Another great update Tom,
Current limiters are great way to use LED's even though I always use resister as I can control the LED brightness with them.
Can't wait to see how the interior turns out.
Very nice Tom...looking forward to seeing it in place.
John
Another beautiful build so far great work Tom.
Jerry
Your flat iron building is going to look right for the neighborhood. Good work.
Mike
Howdy Tom,
Thanks for the current limiters notes. I bought a bunch 12 years ago, and lost the instructions on how to use them during my move to Georgia. I am back in business.
The structure is progressing well. It is looking fantastic.
Have fun,
mike
Outstanding modeling Tom. You are another lighting master like Bob.
Coming along nicely
terry
Quote from: deemery on February 08, 2025, 07:34:27 PMI got a chance to talk to Slim Sartore a bit at Springfield. His day job is definitely interfering with the hobby business :-)
dave
Dave,
I would imagine so. I've noticed his Micro-Lumina stock is down or all together out.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 08, 2025, 07:54:00 PMTom, another great update.
Thanks for sharing how you do lighting and the current limiter.
Things are looking very bright at the Flat Iron.
Rick,
Thank you and yes it is much brighter than it was last week. 8)
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 08, 2025, 10:14:38 PMAnother great update Tom,
Current limiters are great way to use LED's even though I always use resister as I can control the LED brightness with them.
Can't wait to see how the interior turns out.
Ron,
Thanks very much. I've used resistors in line with the current limiters to drop the brightness. You can also use two current limiters for the same effect.
Tom
Quote from: cuse on February 09, 2025, 09:52:19 AMVery nice Tom...looking forward to seeing it in place.
John
John,
Thank you and I'm also looking forward to getting this one planted.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 09, 2025, 10:10:35 AMAnother beautiful build so far great work Tom.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks very much for the comment and the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on February 09, 2025, 10:49:21 AMYour flat iron building is going to look right for the neighborhood. Good work.
Mike
Mike,
Thanks very much. I agree it will be perfect for the area of the roundhouse and turntable. RR workers can rent rooms here.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on February 09, 2025, 12:07:47 PMHowdy Tom,
Thanks for the current limiters notes. I bought a bunch 12 years ago, and lost the instructions on how to use them during my move to Georgia. I am back in business.
The structure is progressing well. It is looking fantastic.
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
You are very welcome. PM me your address and I'll mail you a full sheet. Thanks for stopping by.
Tom - Still having fun.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 09, 2025, 12:18:12 PMOutstanding modeling Tom. You are another lighting master like Bob.
Curt,
Thank you but I have a long way to go. When I grow up I want to be like Bob.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on February 09, 2025, 01:02:54 PMComing along nicely
terry
Terry,
Thank you kind sir, appreciate you stopping by.
Tom
By adding the tile floor it dictated that I have some interior on the cafe floor.
I had to think about this for a bit as the left and rear walls are braced. The rear wall has a door and two different size windows but the left side wall is all wall.
I can add an interior wall to the left and just glue it to the braces. However, the rear wall has to be handled differently.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140327-54209270.jpeg)
The rear wall required some special reworking and here is what I did.
I measured up the rear the height of the left side wall. I then glued a piece of strip wood across the braces at that height.
I used a new single edged razor blade and rocked it back and forth and cut down through the bracing.
I wanted to make sure I also didn't cut into the rear of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140327-54207238.jpeg)
I used a new #17 Xacto blade and carefully pried up the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140327-542081130.jpeg)
Once the bracing was removed, I sanded the interior side of the rear wall smooth using a large sanding stick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140327-542101583.jpeg)
I'll fast forward here a little. I cut a piece of plain strip wood, placed it up against the rear wall, traced the door and window openings and then cut them out of the strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140327-54211569.jpeg)
Okay, I've come this far and decided I just can't have a plain wall for the interior. Since this is a Victorian style structure, I'll need something to add to the exterior style for the interior look.
I decided to add wainscoting and a trim top board to the interior walls.
I measured up three HO scale feet for the height of the wainscoting. I'm using Floquil Primer for the wall color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140422-542121376.jpeg)
I have a very old, I mean about 50 years, piece of HO beadboard. This will work well for the wainscoting. It is very thin and fragile. I guess due to the age?
Anyway, I used a square to make sure the end was a true 90 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140422-54213980.jpeg)
I measured 3 HO scale feet and used the metal square to cut the wainscoting after removing the scale ruler.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140422-542141594.jpeg)
I cut several pieces and you can see they all broke apart. This is not a problem as I can glue them flush to each other. I just wanted you to see that I was right, the piece of old strip wood was fragile.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140422-542151531.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time for sure.
I cut a piece of cardboard for my brush to apply the glue for the wainscoting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140517-54217631.jpeg)
I dipped the end of the cardboard brush in the glue and applied the glue to the wall on the line and below.
The reason I used the cardboard is due to the flat end so the glue can be applied evenly from the line down.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140422-542161725.jpeg)
You can now see why I kept the broken pieces of beadboard together. I glued them to the lower sections of the walls.
Question - Can you spot the break in the wainscoting? If you can, you win the prize for spotting it. Hint, you won't be able to.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140517-54218381.jpeg)
The walls were weighed down overnight so the glue could thoroughly dry and not warp the walls.
I used my cardboard brush and applied an even coat of glue to the rear interior wall.
It was also weighed down overnight. Now the rear wall is now braced with a laminated wall to it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140517-542191578.jpeg)
Here is a look through the window at the wainscoting. Again, the rear wall is not glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140518-542201788.jpeg)
I stained a piece of HO scale 1X3. I cut it to length and glued it to the top of the wainscoting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140518-542211704.jpeg)
Now that the rear wall is double in thickness, the Tichy windows don't look right from the inside.
I will admit that the difference really can't be seen from the front or from the inside. However, I know there is a difference and it needed to be fixed.
I stained some scale 2X6s for the door and 1X6s for the two windows. I glued the pieces to the walls as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140611-542222194.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140611-54223673.jpeg)
I trimmed the 2X6s around the door flush with the wall. I then cut and added trim around the door and two windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140612-542241670.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140612-542252101.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140612-54226238.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140640-542271859.jpeg)
Done for today.
That is truly outstanding modeling Tom.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 09, 2025, 02:56:39 PMQuestion - Can you spot the break in the wainscoting? If you can, you win the prize for spotting it. Hint, you won't be able to.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090225140517-54218381.jpeg)
I'll take a stab at it.
24-090225140517-54218381.jpeg
Bernd
Looking good, Tom.
My guess was the same as Bernd's - because I thought I saw a slight step in the line at the bottom.
If you are going to all the trouble of trimming out the interior of the windows, are you going to paint the inside of the mullions to match the trim - i.e. timber colour?
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 09, 2025, 04:16:11 PMThat is truly outstanding modeling Tom.
Curt,
Thanks very much Butty.
Tom
Bernd,
Great find but, no! It does look like a gap in the wainscoting for sure. The reason I said you won't find it is because it is all one piece. Following your circle in the photo, I looked at the wall and can't see what the camera picked up.
Honestly, it is one piece.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on February 09, 2025, 11:29:59 PMLooking good, Tom.
My guess was the same as Bernd's - because I thought I saw a slight step in the line at the bottom.
If you are going to all the trouble of trimming out the interior of the windows, are you going to paint the inside of the mullions to match the trim - i.e. timber colour?
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Yes, I will paint the inside of the mullions. I'm also experimenting with gluing wood mullions to the backs of the plastic windows.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 10, 2025, 08:18:24 AMBernd,
Great find but, no! It does look like a gap in the wainscoting for sure. The reason I said you won't find it is because it is all one piece. Following your circle in the photo, I looked at the wall and can't see what the camera picked up.
Honestly, it is one piece.
Tom
I believe you. What caught my eye was the crevice was dark and not lite up like the rest. That's usually what you'll get when putting to pieces together like that. And that's what I was looking for.
Got me. I own you the prize. ;)
Bernd
Today I experimented with the inside of the windows. Mark asked if I was going to paint the mullions and I decided to take it one step further.
I got out my HO scale 1X2s and started to cut and glue them to the mullions. I certainly won't do this to all the windows, just the two on the cafe level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144534-542401567.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144534-542431512.jpeg)
The next photo shows three windows. The one on the left is a window with no stain/paint. The window in the center is stained with Flowuil Teak. The window on the right has the 1X2s glued tot he back of the mullions and stained with the Teak stain.
The stain on the center window would work well for the painting on the rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144534-542452265.jpeg)
Here is how the window looks in place with the HO scale 1X2s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144534-54246405.jpeg)
Here is a look at the two windows and rear door. All trimmed in the 1X2s. The edges of the door are trimmed with a 1X3.
They are not yet glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144612-54247275.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144612-542481677.jpeg)
The look from the outside doesn't show the 1X2s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100225144613-542491844.jpeg)
Now I can say I did it but won't be doing it on future builds unless I plan on scratch building the entire window and door.
Howdy Tom, nice detail work on the windows. No, I could not find the break on the wainscot. Nice job. Have fun, mike
Nice work!
Great detail work Tom.
Tom, windows and interior details add much to an already excellent model.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm just catching up after being away for a couple of days. Tom, why did you add the 1x2 to the windows? Thanks!
dave
I really like the look of the trim on the windows Tom. Nice work.
Jerry
Quote from: friscomike on February 10, 2025, 08:47:27 PMHowdy Tom, nice detail work on the windows. No, I could not find the break on the wainscot. Nice job. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you for the kind comment on the build.
Tom, still having fun.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 11, 2025, 07:23:00 AMGreat detail work Tom.
Butty Curt,
Your comment is appreciated, thanks.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 11, 2025, 09:56:13 AMTom, windows and interior details add much to an already excellent model.
Thanks for sharing.
Rick,
Thank you for the kind compliment kind sir. Much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on February 11, 2025, 11:30:57 AMI'm just catching up after being away for a couple of days. Tom, why did you add the 1x2 to the windows? Thanks!
dave
Dave,
I guess my best answer is that I wanted to try it. However, I also didn't think the back side of the gray plastic windows would look correct with the wood wainscoting and trim. So, I went ahead and trimmed the entire back wall! 8)
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 11, 2025, 01:04:43 PMI really like the look of the trim on the windows Tom. Nice work.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the generous comment, thank you!
Tom
I added the top plate to the frieze and frieze board trim. However, this time I wanted to see if I could get a perfect fit on the odd angled corners.
I turned the structure upside down and used the inside of the wall to trace the top plate angles. The pencil line represents the inside edge of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151754-542921511.jpeg)
I darkened the photo a little to show the pencil lines better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151754-54293262.jpeg)
I left the rear edge of the roof panel longer than I wanted as I haven't determined how much of an overhang I want.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151754-542941855.jpeg)
I glued a 12X12 to the top of the braces to create an angle for the roof to slope backwards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151754-54295547.jpeg)
The 12X12 was to much and it created more of a slope than I want.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151910-54296882.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151910-54297451.jpeg)
To make an adjustment on the slope, I'll add strip wood to the top of the rear wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152039-543041611.jpeg)
When I determine the correct size strip wood, I'll stain and paint it prior to gluing it to the top of the rear wall.
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
That's great attention to detail with the angled roof.
I drew the lines for the top plate template on a spare piece of cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151910-542982172.jpeg)
I stained and painted the top board and placed one end on the outside edge of the pencil line. I used a new single edged razor blade and cut the board on the horizontal line as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151911-54299648.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 14, 2025, 04:18:58 PMThat's great attention to detail with the angled roof.
Thanks Curt, it had its challenges but it is turning out as planned.
Tom
I then placed the board on the outside edge of the horizontal line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151911-543002436.jpeg)
I then trimmed/cut it flush with the angle of the board on the left keeping the angle true.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152038-54301752.jpeg)
I used the same method with the short board on the right in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152038-543022450.jpeg)
I then glued the three boards to the top of the three walls. When dry, I used painter's tape to cover the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152104-54305791.jpeg)
I painted the back of the frieze board with full strength Floquil Weathered Black. I made another test fit of the roof pane.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152039-543032342.jpeg)
Here is how the top plate board looks from the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152203-5430695.jpeg)
Here is a close up of both top plate angles. I'll call this the perfect fit with no glue filler.
This method worked better than gluing and then trimming once a board/trim is on the model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152204-543071128.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225152204-543081494.jpeg)
Done for today.
As educational as it's entertaining, this thread.
Tom, you've definitely mastered cutting those angles.
It's always great to watch a craftsman at work.
A great addition to Tahope Tom..... 8)
Quote from: Mr. Critter on February 14, 2025, 04:53:41 PMAs educational as it's entertaining, this thread.
Critter,
Thank you for the comment and for following along on the adventure.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 14, 2025, 07:23:42 PMTom, you've definitely mastered cutting those angles.
Thanks Rick, I like the template cutting vs the cutting once on the model. Makes life much easier.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 15, 2025, 08:31:39 AMIt's always great to watch a craftsman at work.
Curt,
Thanks, your check is in the mail. Oh wait, darn, I forgot to sign it! 8) ;D
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 15, 2025, 09:24:49 AMA great addition to Tahope Tom..... 8)
Greg,
I think so and I'm ready for this one to get more lighting.
Tom
Look like the roofer will be working soon.
Nice precise work!
Tom those angles cut perfectly. Always a good learning experience watching you model.
Jerry
Tom your build is moving along nicely. Great job figuring all the roof-wall angles. This will be a very unique building when finished; enjoy.
Quote from: Philip on February 15, 2025, 10:08:06 AMLook like the roofer will be working soon.
Nice precise work!
Philip,
Yepper, the roofers will be here in a couple weeks.
Thank you for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 15, 2025, 10:24:28 AMTom those angles cut perfectly. Always a good learning experience watching you model.
Jerry
Jerry,
The angles came out perfect for me. I'm very pleased with the alignment. Thank you for following along.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 15, 2025, 10:50:48 AMTom your build is moving along nicely. Great job figuring all the roof-wall angles. This will be a very unique building when finished; enjoy.
Larry,
Thank you for the comment. I think it will be one of the structures viewers will like.
Tom
I needed to have some interior on the ground floor so I made some table items. I'm sure there are interior kits out there somewhere but, hey, this is a scratch build.
The next photo shows ketchup and mustard bottles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112142-543271546.jpeg)
Okay, maybe they do look a little like tooth picks. Where is your imagination?
I dipped one end in Floquil Signal Red and the other end in Floquil Reefer Yellow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112142-543281862.jpeg)
For a couple of beer bottles, I dipped a plain tooth pick in Tamiya Clear Green. I used one of the yellow tipped picks and dipped that in the clear green as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112057-543251264.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112057-54326531.jpeg)
For the booths, I used some I made from a Stella Scale Models (long out of production). The booths came from the Erie Cafe KIt.
I made a RTV mold of the booths from that kit several years ago. I mixed some two part resin and made three for use here.
The table tops are small squares cut from a thin sheet of Evergreen Styrene. The tops were painted with Floquil Oak Stain. I used a clean tooth pick dipped in Floquil Old Silver and rimmed the table edges with the silver on the tooth pick.
No photo here but I also used the end of a tooth pick dipped in Floquil Reefer White for the coffee cups.
The thin silver piece is a sugar jar and also made from the tooth pick.
I added a few customers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112258-543292500.jpeg)
Back in a few.
Here is how it looks in the cafe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112258-543301812.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150225112258-543311554.jpeg)
Done for today.
Reminds me of Edward Hopper and Tom Waits, both. Nighthawks.
Quote from: Mr. Critter on February 15, 2025, 05:10:25 PMReminds me of Edward Hopper and Tom Waits, both. Nighthawks.
Critter,
Hopper is famous for painting scenes looking through window glass. The restaurant scene is a wonderful scene and I think a modeler captured the scene on his layout. Don't remember where.
Tom Waits I don't know of.
Tom
Tom very nice imagineering on the interior; looks very convincing to me.
Great interior!
dave
Hello Tom, what great work you have done on your scratchbuild. The thread is your usual fine job- very instructive and informative.
Tom, such creativity the way you used the toothpicks.
Also smart to have made a mold of the booths so you could make more later.
Very impressive.
That is some great scratch building and thinking out of the box Tom.
Quote from: Larry C on February 15, 2025, 05:34:03 PMTom very nice imagineering on the interior; looks very convincing to me.
Larry,
Thank you, much appreciate the compliment. I have a couple other items to add.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on February 15, 2025, 06:26:45 PMGreat interior!
dave
Dave,
Thank you kind sir, er, Moderator. ;D
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on February 15, 2025, 06:42:36 PMHello Tom, what great work you have done on your scratchbuild. The thread is your usual fine job- very instructive and informative.
Thank you Jeff. This has been a fun and challenging scratch build.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 15, 2025, 07:46:17 PMTom, such creativity the way you used the toothpicks.
Also smart to have made a mold of the booths so you could make more later.
Very impressive.
Rick,
Thanks my friend. I've also made a few of the booths for the Bar Mills Sweaty Betty's Bar interior. Although I haven't finished the interior on that kit yet. I did scratch build the interior walls.
Again thank you.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225135624-543371532.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 16, 2025, 06:38:36 AMThat is some great scratch building and thinking out of the box Tom.
Curt,
Thank you Butty, I appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 15, 2025, 05:21:20 PMQuote from: Mr. Critter on February 15, 2025, 05:10:25 PMReminds me of Edward Hopper and Tom Waits, both. Nighthawks.
Critter,
Hopper is famous for painting scenes looking through window glass. The restaurant scene is a wonderful scene and I think a modeler captured the scene on his layout. Don't remember where.
Tom Waits I don't know of.
Tom
Looking great Tom. Yes has that Nighthawks vibe.
There is an O scale kit available of the Phillies Diner. And I have seen a few folks do the Nighthawks scene in various scales over the years. Just search Nighthawks Diorama.
It's a scene I've been wanting to scratchbuild for a long time.
Tom Waits is the singer. He had an album, Nighthawks at the Diner.
He's not to everyone's taste.
Quote from: robert goslin on February 16, 2025, 04:02:24 PMLooking great Tom. Yes has that Nighthawks vibe.
There is an O scale kit available of the Phillies Diner. And I have seen a few folks do the Nighthawks scene in various scales over the years. Just search Nighthawks Diorama.
It's a scene I've been wanting to scratchbuild for a long time.
Tom Waits is the singer. He had an album, Nighthawks at the Diner.
He's not to everyone's taste.
Rob,
Thanks for the compliment. Yea. I love that scene on the model of the Highthawks Diorama.
Thanks also for the information.
Tom
I didn't want to light the entire second and third floors but a few random windows. To do this I decided to make four small shadow boxes.
I cut small pieces of cardboard from the back of a legal pad I saved.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163306-54338514.jpeg)
I started by gluing one side to another piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163306-54340275.jpeg)
Well, you get the idea so I'll fast forward here and show you the four shadow boxes.
I painted the inside of one blue and the other three white.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163307-543411537.jpeg)
I placed a lady taking off her top in the blue box. Since this is a family forum, I faced her away from the window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163307-54342491.jpeg)
Howdy Tom,
I like the shadow box approach for the upper floors. The Flat Iron is an amazing build. Persist!
Have fun,
mike
I used Evan Design nano LEDs in Cool White. Each nano LED requires 3 volts to light.
You can get the nano LEDs from www.modeltrainsoftware.com.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163410-543481949.jpeg)
They aren't cheap but they are cheaper by the dozen. The more you buy the less each one costs.
I drilled a small hole in the top of each box and glued an LED to the top inside the box.
The shadow boxes will be place on three random window openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163307-5434364.jpeg)
Quote from: friscomike on February 16, 2025, 04:48:50 PMHowdy Tom,
I like the shadow box approach for the upper floors. The Flat Iron is an amazing build. Persist!
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
Thank you. The shadow box was the only way to light a few separate windows.
And, I'm still having lots of fun.
Tom
And, just like magic, the shadow boxes are glued in place and lit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163409-543471628.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163409-543451460.jpeg)
The young lady in the blue room is getting ready to go to bed or go out. Not sure which.
Prior tp installing the windows, I'll need to add glass, shades and curtains.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163409-543462299.jpeg)
The window scene above will be on the west side and in plain view of visitors.
I also glue the interior wall section in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163409-543442420.jpeg)
Done for today.
Yer a dirty old man, Tom ;-))
terry
Looking great, Tom. Interior is really coming together.
John Armstrong had the Nighthawks scene on his layout.
Jeff
Tom, I don't remember anyone else doing window boxes but the effect works well.
Tom,
The light boxes look great. They will give the building even more character.
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on February 16, 2025, 05:27:38 PMYer a dirty old man, Tom ;-))
terry
Terry,
Hey, I could have turned her around! ;D
Tom
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 16, 2025, 05:50:53 PMLooking great, Tom. Interior is really coming together.
John Armstrong had the Nighthawks scene on his layout.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you. Yes, I remember now it was John Armstrong.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 16, 2025, 07:03:52 PMTom, I don't remember anyone else doing window boxes but the effect works well.
Rick,
Thank you my friend. The window/shadow boxes let me light a few windows without having to light the entire interior.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 16, 2025, 08:17:29 PMTom,
The light boxes look great. They will give the building even more character.
Ron,
Much appreciate the compliment. Random lit windows will give it the "lived in" look.
Tom
Tom a neat way to do lighting.
Jerry
Tom great job on the window boxes. I need to do this technique on a build.
Good luck with the modeling break, we'll be here when you're back at it!
dave
Tom looking good! Like the girl in the upstairs window; a little-tongue-in-cheek.
Tom, The shadow boxes are nice.
Are nano led's those square shaped tiny lights such as 0604 series ?
Phil in the dark ;D
Quote from: Jerry on February 17, 2025, 10:03:58 AMTom a neat way to do lighting.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you very much. I've done this on a few other models also.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171123173724-52126686.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 17, 2025, 12:10:35 PMTom great job on the window boxes. I need to do this technique on a build.
Curt,
Thanks, the window boxes allow you to light a few separate windows without having to light all the windows. In my case, I have a combined 23 windows on the two upper floors.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on February 17, 2025, 12:51:18 PMGood luck with the modeling break, we'll be here when you're back at it!
dave
Dave,
Thank you, I'll have an update later this afternoon.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 18, 2025, 07:59:45 AMTom looking good! Like the girl in the upstairs window; a little-tongue-in-cheek.
Larry,
Thanks you, much appreciate the comment. The "girl in the window" will face the track side and also will be visible to visitors.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on February 21, 2025, 09:57:58 AMTom, The shadow boxes are nice.
Are nano led's those square shaped tiny lights such as 0604 series ?
Phil in the dark ;D
Philip,
The Nano LEDs are square but very small. I'm not sure about the number 0604 series. I used the Nano cool white and warm white.
Tom
Uncle Tommie,
The build is looking great! The lights in the upper floors are a nice touch. So which guy is the one drinking the Diet Pepsi at the table?
My wiring now needs to be connected to each other. I have the lights on the main floor and shadow boxes on the upper two floors. These two circuits are wired in series. I want to wire them parallel. meaning one circuit instead of two.
In the next photo the cafe lights are wired with the black and white wires. The window boxes are wired with the LEDs red and black wires.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111721-54428505.jpeg)
The white wires in the photo below are the + positive and the black are the - negative.
You can also see I unraveled the black and white wires to make it easier to follow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111721-54432472.jpeg)
Quote from: Bruce Oberleitner on February 23, 2025, 01:53:25 PMUncle Tommie,
The build is looking great! The lights in the upper floors are a nice touch. So which guy is the one drinking the Diet Pepsi at the table?
Cousin Brucie.
Good to see you my friend. The men are all drinking Diet Pepsi while the women are drinking coffee. 8)
Thank you also for the kind compliment.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111722-544331641.jpeg)
To make it easier for me to feed the wiring below the layout, I added a short piece of 3/32 ID (inside diameter) brass tube. I glued this tube behind the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111722-54434314.jpeg)
I wired the two white wires to a red wire lead (positive) and the two black wires to the black window wires (negative).
The wires was then soldered to the red main wire and the black to a main white wire - I didn't have the same black size wire as the red so I used white as the negative.
The wires were then fed down through the brass tube.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111722-544352137.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
I tested all the lights with an 18v power supply.
It all worked, YEA! ;D
The lights will look much dimmer after the windows with shades and curtains are added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111814-544362073.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111814-54437148.jpeg)
I marked on the base where the wires will feed through the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225142313-54451677.jpeg)
I drilled a hole in the base and through the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225142313-54452694.jpeg)
I cut another short piece of brass tubing and inserted in the hole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225142313-544531878.jpeg)
I then placed the base over the tubing and pushed it down flush with the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225142313-544541359.jpeg)
Here is a bottom view of the tubing hidden behind the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134736-54444477.jpeg)
Taking a break. I'll add more updates later this afternoon.
Tom
Great progress on the lighting, Tom.
Its really coming together.
Cheers, Mark.
Looks good Tom. I always like to see how folks do their lighting.
The brass tubing idea is neat.
Mine are often a birds nest if more that one light.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on February 23, 2025, 02:38:37 PMGreat progress on the lighting, Tom.
Its really coming together.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thanks very much. This one is about 80% finished. However, the last 20% is a large amount.
Tom
Quote from: robert goslin on February 23, 2025, 03:07:15 PMLooks good Tom. I always like to see how folks do their lighting.
The brass tubing idea is neat.
Mine are often a birds nest if more that one light.
Rob,
Thanks Mate. The brass tubing makes it easier to feed the wires through the structure and down through the layout. Don't tell anyone but mine is a bird's nest on the inside but, the nest does work.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225111814-544382194.jpeg)
This morning I glued the rear wall in place and added the rest of the corner trim boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134736-544452452.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134736-544462350.jpeg)
I also added the RIFFRAFF cafe sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134820-544481535.jpeg)
I wanted to add some detail most models don't have. I rummaged through my detail boxes and came up with something that will work.
Older building didn't have interior plumbing. When the building was upgraded to include toilets, the piping ran down the side of rear of the structure.
I found a few Exterior Pumbing Pipes made by Chooch Enterprises. There are 5 sections in the pack. Unfortunately, these are no longer being offered by Chooch. Not sure if anyone else is making them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134736-544471353.jpeg)
You may have noticed the holes in the rear wall but were to polite to say I have huge termites at work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134736-544452452.jpeg)
I test fit and fit three sections of piping. I had to gently bend the piping and mark on the wall where they fit. I drilled holes in the wall where the pipes exited the rear wall.
I used Gallery Glass Liquid Leading to seal around the pipes. I learned this tip from Reading Bob. I used to mix black paint and white glue for this but, the liquid leading is much less messy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134820-544491233.jpeg)
I painted the pipes with full strength Floquil Gun Metal and while drying brushed on some rust colored pastel chalk.
When dry, I placed the piping on the rear wall and used a tooth pick dipped into the liquid leading to seal the pipes around the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230225134820-544502437.jpeg)
The venting pipe doesn't go all the way to the top, yet. I'll add the final piece once the roof is in place. The roof will be the one of the last parts added to the structure.
The last 20% includes, the roof, doors, windows, window shades and the exterior staircase.
I have a few more extra details to add.
Done for today.
Lots of good tips and techniques in this last 2 pages, Tom. Too bad those Chooch pipes aren't made any more. The fact that you can bend them a bit helps with installation. (They'd be an easy 3D printing project, I would think....)
dave
Tom, there's always something interesting to see and learn in your updates.
Thanks as always for sharing.
Tom that looks very good and a nice extra detail.
Impressive work Tom!
Tom nice detailing and a good tip on how to seal the holes up!
Jerry
Nice update Tom. Those pipes look great.
Gutters & pipes are often forgotten on our models. These are a really nice feature on your building.
Great progress Tom..... 8)
This is going to look great once it's in its new home on the layout! 8)
Quote from: deemery on February 23, 2025, 05:54:29 PMLots of good tips and techniques in this last 2 pages, Tom. Too bad those Chooch pipes aren't made any more. The fact that you can bend them a bit helps with installation. (They'd be an easy 3D printing project, I would think....)
dave
Dave,
Thank you. Yes, it is to bad that the pipes are no longer available. I guess one could scratch build some but the angles would be difficult.
Easy for a 3D printer if you know what your doing. I don't with the 3D that is.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 23, 2025, 06:46:34 PMTom, there's always something interesting to see and learn in your updates.
Thanks as always for sharing.
Rick,
Thank you. I'm always happy to share what I do and how to in my builds.
You are very welcome.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 23, 2025, 07:31:13 PMTom that looks very good and a nice extra detail.
Butty Curt,
Thank you my friend. Always to good to hear from you.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on February 23, 2025, 08:53:15 PMImpressive work Tom!
Philip,
Thank you for the generous compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 24, 2025, 12:01:01 AMTom nice detailing and a good tip on how to seal the holes up!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, much appreciate you stopping by and leaving a comment.
Tom
Quote from: robert goslin on February 24, 2025, 04:45:09 AMNice update Tom. Those pipes look great.
Gutters & pipes are often forgotten on our models. These are a really nice feature on your building.
Rob,
Thank you sir. I have other details to add as well. I'm working on an idea for gutters.
Appreciate the comments.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 24, 2025, 08:51:10 AMGreat progress Tom..... 8)
Thanks Butty Greg and also for stopping by for a look see. 8)
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 24, 2025, 10:45:07 AMThis is going to look great once it's in its new home on the layout! 8)
Bob,
Thanks Butty, I'm looking forward to getting it planted.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135427-54465908.jpeg)
Before I add another update, I forgot to add this from yesterday.
I wanted to show how easy it is to put the falt iron on the base with the light wires. No narrative is necessary here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135517-54472370.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135517-544732376.jpeg)
I added a board to the top of the rear wall to reduce the roof slope.
I wanted to add a 6X6 but my stash was low so I used an 8X6 and turned it so the 6" was on the board and not the the 8".
Once the glue was dry, I painted it the same wall color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135428-54469719.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135517-54470484.jpeg)
The next photo shows the slope of the roof without the 6" board added to the top of the rear wall.
A full bubble slope.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140225151910-54296882.jpeg)
Now the roof slope is a little less than a quarter bubble.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135517-544711620.jpeg)
Early this afternoon I installed corbels to the top under the trim boards.
Corbels are usually placed every 24 to 36 inches. I chose to add them every 36 HO scale inches as it looks better. Imagine seeing them every 24 inches on the structure. Prior to gluing them in place, I had them on 24" centers and it didn't look right. No photo of that.
I used Tichy #1801 Double S Corbels for the Flat Iron.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135427-54466445.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135427-544671835.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240225135428-54468561.jpeg)
Done for today.
Wow Tom, that appears darn near perfect.
Nice work The bubble always runs uphill! 8)
Nice work Tom, looks like you are getting closer to the end.
Did you try the corbels in a contrasting color, before painting and positioning them? This looks OK for a relatively "modern" (spelled c-h-e-a-p :) ) paint job, but even through the 1920s, I'd expect corbels to be painted in a contrasting trim color.
dave
Very nice Tom.
Jerry
Tom,
Your spacing of corbels looks just right. They are fairly large, which is what I suspect made the closerspacing look wrong.
This is a very handsome building. Really nice proportions.
Mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 24, 2025, 03:46:20 PMWow Tom, that appears darn near perfect.
Curt,
Thanks very much.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on February 24, 2025, 05:07:11 PMNice work The bubble always runs uphill! 8)
Philip,
Thanks, much appreciated. Yes, I've never been able to get the bubble to run down. ;D ;D
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 24, 2025, 08:14:55 PMNice work Tom, looks like you are getting closer to the end.
Ron,
Thank you and yes, it is getting close to the end but the outside staircase will take some time.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on February 24, 2025, 08:21:42 PMDid you try the corbels in a contrasting color, before painting and positioning them? This looks OK for a relatively "modern" (spelled c-h-e-a-p :) ) paint job, but even through the 1920s, I'd expect corbels to be painted in a contrasting trim color.
dave
Dave,
No, never thought of it. I don't think it would look good on the model. I've seen many an old building with corbels, but never one of a different color than the main structure. I have seen them the color of the trim when the trim was different than the walls.
Tom
Howdy Tom,
The flat iron is looking fantastic. The drain pipes are a nice add.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Michael Hohn on February 25, 2025, 09:13:15 AMTom,
Your spacing of corbels looks just right. They are fairly large, which is what I suspect made the closerspacing look wrong.
This is a very handsome building. Really nice proportions.
Mike
Mike,
Thank you for the comment and compliment. Perhaps they look large as the photo is fairly up close. These were the smallest I could find. Some other were twice as large as the Tichy.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on February 25, 2025, 09:20:07 AMHowdy Tom,
The flat iron is looking fantastic. The drain pipes are a nice add.
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
Thanks for the compliment. This one is nearing the end but the staircase will be interesting to do and get finished. I have a few things I want to do with it. I'm still having fun though.
Tom
Time to build the outside staircase. I'm using the scratch built stringers, HO scale 2X4s, 2X8s and 4X4s. I'm also using 3/32" scribed siding for the stair platforms.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165816-544991166.jpeg)
Prior to staining the strip wood, I used a fine tooth saw and distressed the wood. Using a little pressure, I placed the saw on the strip wood and pulled the wood under the fine tooth blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165816-545032027.jpeg)
I then stained all the strip wood with Hunterline Light Gray A&I stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165945-54510840.jpeg)
I have no idea why I took this next photo, but here is a freebie for your viewing pleasure. 8) 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165945-545111185.jpeg)
I was considering building the staircase using the stained wood vs. painting the wood the color of the structure.
I've scratch built several outside staircases to my structures and noticed I painted all of them to match the building. Here are two.
I added this to the Stella Scale Models New Erie Cafe (long out of priduction).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165816-54500121.jpeg)
This is one I did making it a 90 degree staircase. This is one KC's Workshop - Jason Jenson kit bash of three of KC's kits. On my version of Jenson's build, I kit bashed his kit bash to fit my layout space.
KC's kit is still available.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165816-545012315.jpeg)
Howdy Tom,
I like the painted staircases. The other models look fantastic with them.
Have fun,
mike
This next photo shows two platforms. The upper left is stained and unpainted and lower center one is stained and painted the color of the structure. I'm going with the building color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165816-545021384.jpeg)
I used a very thin paint wash on the strip wood and prior to drying, I pulled each piece of wood across a paper towel to expose more of the stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165945-54512677.jpeg)
Quote from: friscomike on February 27, 2025, 05:28:05 PMHowdy Tom,
I like the painted staircases. The other models look fantastic with them.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
I do as well and thank you for the feedback. I'm still having fun.
Tom
I started to building the two stair platforms/landings and didn't paint them. I did paint them though afterwards.
I cut two pieces of the 3/32" scribed siding and then edge glued 2X8s flush to the top.
I trimmed each piece as I glued the 2X8s around the platform.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165859-545041377.jpeg)
Once I had three sides glued, I added three 4X4s to the underside of each.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165859-54505117.jpeg)
When dry, I used a new single edged razor blade and trimmed the 4X4s. I then glued on the remaining 2X8 and painted them with the thin wash of Floquil Depot Buff.
I marked the location of the platform and glued it to wall just under the door. I used a metal square to make sure it stayed square to the wall as the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165859-545071042.jpeg)
The next day the square was removed and the platform was checked of being level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165859-545082288.jpeg)
Both are level.
I also added 4X4 supports under the top platform. The lower platform will have a different support system.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165945-545091984.jpeg)
I then glued the first stringer flush against the wall and the outside stringer was glued flush to the outside edge of the top and lower platform.
Using the principal of the 6 P's paid off here. The stringers fit perfectly between the two platforms.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225165945-545132192.jpeg)
I used a metal square to make sure the outside stringer was square to the other stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170033-545141224.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170033-54515388.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom, you've done it again.
You made something that I think is tedious to do and you made it look easy.
Nicely done.
Outstanding modeling Tom.
You sure can make things look easy.
A job well done.
Jerry
Tom great job on the stringers. By the looks of the level you can't get any better than that.
Quote from: Rick on February 27, 2025, 06:52:02 PMTom, you've done it again.
You made something that I think is tedious to do and you made it look easy.
Nicely done.
Rick,
Thank you for the kind compliment. It is a bit tedious but patience is the key. Only one board can be glued at a time.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 28, 2025, 12:00:39 AMYou sure can make things look easy.
A job well done.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you sir. I guess it is easy for me, just time consuming, as this is the fifth scratch built outside staircase I've done. Oh, it probably won't be the last but it will be the last scratch build on staircases. 8)
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 28, 2025, 10:33:28 AMTom great job on the stringers. By the looks of the level you can't get any better than that.
Larry,
Your kind and very generous compliment is very much appreciated, thank you.
Tom
I'm sure many of us can claim a membership or two in the #11 Club. I've had several memberships myself.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225163226-545541845.jpeg)
Well, I'm now a member of the NWSL Chopper Club.
I was too quick to grab a piece of rail post from the chopper and took a little slice off my finger.
Luckily it was just a nick and not a deep slice.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170033-545161278.jpeg)
Okay, lesson learned at least for now. ;D
I've done that, too. That's why I always grab tweezers before I cut small parts on my Chopper...
dave
Prior to moving to the lower staircase, I wanted to secure the upper one in case I bumped it and broke the outside stringer. I certainly didn't want to cut another one.
I glued stair steps randomly on the stringers to help make them more sturdy. This not only gives the staircase extra strength but it will help limit the damage if I do get careless.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170033-545172335.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
Quote from: deemery on February 28, 2025, 04:41:03 PMI've done that, too. That's why I always grab tweezers before I cut small parts on my Chopper...
dave
Dave,
That and just be very careful and not in a hurry to grab the part. This was my first and hopefully the last incident. The chopper is for chopping strip wood, not fingers. :-[
Tom
I got back on the horse and continued to cut all the parts for the rail posts and steps. I was in no hurry or careless this time around.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160517-545291801.jpeg)
I next needed to glue the lower staircase in place. The outside plumbing pipes created a slight problem. The stringer next to the wall couldn't be glued as one piece. Nor could it be glued as one piece under the pipes.
Here is what I did to fix the problem.
I used two pieces of HO scale 6X6s. This is the height of the pipes from the wall. I measured and cut each end at an angle and test fit them on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170033-54518439.jpeg)
I glued the two 6X6s to the inside of the wall stringer. I made sure each 6X6 was glued flush with each end of the stringer. This gave me the correct gap in the middle for the pipes to fit between the 6X6s.
I stained and painted them prior to gluing them to the stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170118-545192433.jpeg)
I'll fast forward here and show that I followed the same procedure for the lower section as I did for the upper staircase.
You can see the stringer is out from the wall but once the steps are in place is won't be noticeable.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170118-545201716.jpeg)
I cut and trimmed two steps to fit around the plumbing pipes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170118-545221801.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270225170119-545232347.jpeg)
For the railings on the staircase, I'm using 2X4s and for the support posts I'm using 4X4s. However, not 4X4s in the traditional sense.
I'll use 2X4s and splice them together.
For the landing or deck on each floor, the support posts will be three feet from the the deck or landing to the railing. A portion of the posts will extend down the side of the deck/landing 9 inches. Of course, these are HO scale measurements.
I cut 14 2X4s to a scale length of three feet and 14 to a scale of three feet and 9 inches. And, I kept my finger out of the way of the chopper blade. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160517-54530488.jpeg)
I then glued them back to back, one long and one short.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160517-545311368.jpeg)
Two of these posts will sit in the middle, one on each, of the stringers. The steps are 2X8s. So the two posts needed to be 2 scale inches shorter on the inside to allow for the post to fit correctly on the outside of the stringer and the top of the step.
You can see the difference in the next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160517-54532880.jpeg)
I then glued posts to the top landing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160517-545331337.jpeg)
Prior to moving on I wanted to glue on some railings for the same reason I did the random steps. The posts will be much stronger with railings glued on than just the posts alone.
I started with the top railing using a 2X4. I cut one piece at a 45 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160616-54534397.jpeg)
To get the sister angle correct here is what and how I did it.
I placed the cut piece on top of another piece and used a single edged razor blade to cut the other angle thus matching the cut angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160616-545352170.jpeg)
Turn on the second cut piece over and you have a perfect 90 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160616-54536327.jpeg)
I used a black Paper Mate to mark where the stringer post will be located.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160616-545371906.jpeg)
This is the location I need to have the outside of the step flush with the outside of the stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160616-545381807.jpeg)
After cutting the two posts at 45 degrees at the top, they were glued to the stringer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160712-545392123.jpeg)
Here is a birds eye view of the top railing showing the 90 degree fit of the top railing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225161237-545481533.jpeg)
I also glued a top railing to the section between the first and second landing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160712-545411361.jpeg)
Always checking to make sure I have everything on the level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160712-54540974.jpeg)
Done for today. I'll have more to show tomorrow afternoonl.
Wow Tom,
Great progress. The stair offset for the drain pipes is well done.
BTW, welcome to the chopper club. I've been a member since 1980s. ;D
Have fun,
mike
8) Looking great!
Tom, the work around to get past the pipes was a stroke of genius.
Lots of good tips on cutting and attaching the handrail which was always an issue for me.
Stairs are looking good Tom..... 8)
Tom the work around the pipes first class.
I'd be out of breath climbing all those steps! ;D
Jerry
Tom, what kind of glue are you using for the railing posts? When I've tried that, I haven't found a good glue that gives me good tack, working time to make sure things are plumb, and then dries solid.
dave
Quote from: friscomike on February 28, 2025, 06:01:50 PMWow Tom,
Great progress. The stair offset for the drain pipes is well done.
BTW, welcome to the chopper club. I've been a member since 1980s. ;D
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much. The stair offset work well.
I'm a one time member of the chopper club and that one membership is enough. ;D
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 28, 2025, 07:22:57 PMTom, the work around to get past the pipes was a stroke of genius.
Lots of good tips on cutting and attaching the handrail which was always an issue for me.
Rick,
Thank you for the kind comment on the stairs around the pipes. It took me a week of laying in bed at night to think of doing it that way.
Glad you are getting some good tips.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 01, 2025, 09:59:53 AMStairs are looking good Tom..... 8)
Greg,
From one builder, models, to another, 1:1 models, I thank you! 8)
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 01, 2025, 10:41:01 AMTom the work around the pipes first class.
I'd be out of breath climbing all those steps! ;D
Jerry
Jerry,
Your compliment is very much appreciated, thank you.
I was almost out of breath building them. ;D
Tom
Quote from: deemery on March 01, 2025, 11:43:16 AMTom, what kind of glue are you using for the railing posts? When I've tried that, I haven't found a good glue that gives me good tack, working time to make sure things are plumb, and then dries solid.
dave
Dave,
I've been using Elmer's Carpetender's Wood Glue for the past 35+ years of model building. It sets up faster than the white glues, is sandable and paintable.
Tom
For your convenience, I'm repeating two photos here.
The first shows the post located on the center section of the staircase. This post is just sitting there and not yet glued. I did this for a reason.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160712-545392123.jpeg)
The next photo shows the railing attached/glued in position. The center post hasn't been glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160712-545411361.jpeg)
Once the railing is glued to the top and lower, second platform, railings and dried. I then fit the center post into position.
The reason I did this so I can adjust the angle of the post to fit the angle of the railing. On this occasion I didn't need to make an adjustment. However, if you ever have this situation on a build, lightly sand the part to make the correct fit. You can sand a little vs cutting of a little to much.
The next two photos show the center post and the outside railing glued in place.
You can see the post is snug under the railing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160713-54542350.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225160807-54543112.jpeg)
I moved on and added the rest of the railing posts and railings.
I also added a small concrete slab at the bottom of the stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225161413-545491886.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225161413-54550156.jpeg)
Two extra photos of the built staircase.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225161413-545511288.jpeg)
The roof card isn't glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225161414-545521944.jpeg)
One extra detail I added was to use "N" scale Tichy nut and bolt castings to each of the eleven staircase support posts.
I used a # 79 drill bit and carefully drilled into the lower portion and glued the N&B into the holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280225161414-545532310.jpeg)
Done for today.
The staircases look terrific. The NBW's take them to the next level.
Tom, looks like you're getting close to planting it on the layout.
Howdy Tom,
The stairs and drain pipes really add a craftsman touch to the structure—excellent work as usual. Wish I was nearby to see your work in person.
Have fun,
mike
Tom I'm always amazed at your attention to detail and your precision. I may have to get me one
of those Choppers; minus the cuts of course.
Getting there Tom..... :)
8) Looking good Tom!
Tom, what are you using for glue for the railing posts? When I've tried that, I haven't found a glue that has the combination of good initial tack, a bit of positionability, and then strength when it's cured.
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 02, 2025, 01:34:09 PMTom, what are you using for glue for the railing posts? When I've tried that, I haven't found a glue that has the combination of good initial tack, a bit of positionability, and then strength when it's cured.
dave
Dave, this was my response to your question. I answered it yesterday afternoon.Dave,I've been using Elmer's Carpetender's Wood Glue for the past 35+ years on model building. It sets up faster than the white glues, is sandable and paintable.Tom
Tom,I missed that answer yesterday! So yellow carpenter glue. Thanks!
dave
Curt,
Thanks Butty
Quote from: deemery on March 02, 2025, 02:40:27 PMTom,I missed that answer yesterday! So yellow carpenter glue. Thanks!
dave
Dave,
No problem, I didn't want you to think I ignored the question.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 01, 2025, 05:47:27 PMThe staircases look terrific. The NBW's take them to the next level.
Curt,
Thanks Butty, much appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 01, 2025, 06:31:00 PMTom, looks like you're getting close to planting it on the layout.
Rick,
I hope so. I just need to stop thinking of stuff to add.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 01, 2025, 10:32:05 PMHowdy Tom,
The stairs and drain pipes really add a craftsman touch to the structure—excellent work as usual. Wish I was nearby to see your work in person.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much my friend. You could always drive down from Ga. and visit the layout and the SBGs.
Tom - Still having fun! ;D
Quote from: Larry C on March 02, 2025, 08:19:02 AMTom I'm always amazed at your attention to detail and your precision. I may have to get me one
of those Choppers; minus the cuts of course.
Larry,
I appreciate you stopping by and your compliment is kind and generous, thank you.
The Chopper doesn't come with cuts. I supplied that on my own. 8)
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 02, 2025, 10:45:50 AMGetting there Tom..... :)
Greg,
Yes, slowly but surely.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 02, 2025, 10:46:45 AM8) Looking good Tom!
Philip,
Thank you sir, happy you stopped by for a look see.
Tom
Since there is no AC in this structure, I decided to add screen doors over the exterior rear doors.
I used a Tichy door, turned it upside down and traced the outline on a file folder.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171424-54555993.jpeg)
I used a metal ruler to line in the inside of the door and horizontal brace.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171424-545581342.jpeg)
Using a new #11 blade, I started cutting out the door. Yes, I know it looks like a window at this point.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171424-545591551.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171424-54560374.jpeg)
I test fir it over the door and then made two additional screen door frames.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171425-54561838.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171518-545621080.jpeg)
Not sure what I'd call this material but it is a ribbon like material and looks perfect for HO screens.
I got this roll at Jo Ann's Fabrics. This roll will last a life time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171518-54563843.jpeg)
I cut a small strip off the roll. I used a toothpick to thinly spread some yellow glue to the back of the frames and glued them on the fabric. I used a weight to hold them down overnight until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171518-545641393.jpeg)
Here is a look at the rear of the screen door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171519-545651859.jpeg)
I used a new #11 blade and trimmed the screen around the doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171519-545662333.jpeg)
I forgot yo mention that I painted the doors first with Floquil Antique White and when dry, dipped them into the Hunterline LIght Gray A&I staining ink.
The screen doors were weathered with chalk powders and the sprayed with a flat sealant.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171548-54567981.jpeg)
The screen doors were then glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020325171548-545681279.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom, I think that material is called tulle.
Screen doors look good.
Tom,
Those are great looking screen doors Tom.
Hello Tom, your scratch build is coming along very nicely. I'm enjoying the many layers of detailing that you are adding to the structure.
Quote from: Rick on March 02, 2025, 06:11:03 PMTom, I think that material is called tulle.
Screen doors look good.
Rick,
Yes, it is a Tulle of sorts. Thanks, I just couldn't think of the name.
Thanks also for the comment.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 02, 2025, 07:41:39 PMTom,
Those are great looking screen doors Tom.
Ron,
Thank you Ron for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on March 02, 2025, 10:04:56 PMHello Tom, your scratch build is coming along very nicely. I'm enjoying the many layers of detailing that you are adding to the structure.
Hey Jeff,
I appreciate you stopping by and posting your comments. I'm getting near the end for sure.
Tom
Screen doors, protection from Florida's state bird ;D
dave
The screens and doors look great Tom.
Quote from: deemery on March 03, 2025, 03:48:57 PMScreen doors, protection from Florida's state bird ;D
dave
Dave,
An absolute necessity in the state here to keep out all types of blood suckers. Many Mosquitos should be the backup state bird.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 03, 2025, 04:42:48 PMThe screens and doors look great Tom.
Curt,
Thanks very much Butty.
Tom
Soon after the walls were cut and the door and window opening were also cut out, I worked on the windows.
I'm using the Tichy plastic windows.
I used a fine tooth Exacto saw blade to roughen up window exteriors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163208-545802418.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163208-54581255.jpeg)
This left the windows in rough shape and needed to be cleaned and deburred. To change the look of a few windows, I also cut out some lower window sashes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163208-545821834.jpeg)
I used an Emory board to clean the exterior portion of the windows. The Emory board was to large to fit into the window opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163208-545841283.jpeg)
I cut the Emory board down the center and this gave me the perfect sanding stick to clean around the interior part of the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163250-545851305.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163208-545832172.jpeg)
I've covered these next few steps in other builds but I'll repeat it here as well.
The plastic windows are gray in color and this is perfect for helping to weather the windows and helps with the pealing paint effect.
Using Floquil Antique White, I used a stiff paint brush and stippled on the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163346-545871089.jpeg)
Painted and unpainted window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163250-545861140.jpeg)
While the paint was still tacky, I dipped the window in Hunterline Light Gray A&I stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163346-545891904.jpeg)
I then set the window on a paper towel to dry. Here is how the window looks when dry.
You can clearly see the difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163346-54590355.jpeg)
I repeated this process of all 24 windows and the three doors.
When all the windows were dry, I added Canopy Glue for the window glass. The next day I used Gray, Yellow and Green paint to color the back of a few windows to represent shades. I used a fine cloth paper napkin for some curtains.
A paper cloth napkin can be found in the better restaurants. A friend grabbed a bunch of them when he visited the upscale restaurant. Most use cloth napkins. I have a life time supply of the cloth paper.
I guess I should say it a cloth like paper napkin. Anyway the windows were installed this morning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163442-54594251.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163442-545931421.jpeg)
For the second landing support, I used 4X4s. I cut two to length for the supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163442-54591895.jpeg)
Fast forward and I let them dry over night and then added 1X4s for the "X" bracing and the one horizontal brace.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163442-545921716.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030325163908-545952208.jpeg)
Done for today.
Those stairs came together really nicely. They look "correct to scale."
dave
Tom, I don't remember seeing anyone rough up plastic windows before.
That's some attention to detail.
All the windows installed with their curtains and shades look very good.
Nice job finishing the stairs too.
Excellent structure, Tom. mike
Tom, thanks for the how to on the window frames. Everything looks great.
The outside stair and drain pipe give a sense of place, as in "where it doesn't snow much". I've found facial tissue durable enough for curtains in my buildings.
Tom I really like the way you weathered the plastic windows great tip.
Stairs are perfect.
Everything coming together nicely.
Jerry
Not sure if you listen to Stevie Ray Vaughan but it's looking "Tin Pan Alley" great!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGPx-ekqZEo
Tom fantastic job on the build and love the window treatment; may have to borrow that process.
How much more before you call it finished?
Quote from: deemery on March 03, 2025, 07:31:02 PMThose stairs came together really nicely. They look "correct to scale."
dave
Dave,
Thank you for the comment. And, I agree with you, they look correct to scale for HO.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 03, 2025, 08:01:26 PMTom, I don't remember seeing anyone rough up plastic windows before.
That's some attention to detail.
All the windows installed with their curtains and shades look very good.
Nice job finishing the stairs too.
Rick,
Not many people do it but I learned this from Doug Fosscale of FOS Scale Models.
Since this is a contest model and the rear will be up close and personal for the viewer, I thought it appropriate.
Thanks for the great compliment on the build.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 03, 2025, 08:32:02 PMExcellent structure, Tom. mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much. I'm still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 04, 2025, 07:45:54 AMTom, thanks for the how to on the window frames. Everything looks great.
Butty Curt,
You are very welcome and thanks.
Tom
Quote from: jbvb on March 04, 2025, 08:18:39 AMThe outside stair and drain pipe give a sense of place, as in "where it doesn't snow much". I've found facial tissue durable enough for curtains in my buildings.
James,
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. My wife wanted me to try the facial tissue on another model. But, I have lots of napkin material.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 04, 2025, 08:26:17 AMTom I really like the way you weathered the plastic windows great tip.
Stairs are perfect.
Everything coming together nicely.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, the window tip comes from FOS Scale Models. I thought is great tip as well.
Your compliment is very generous and kind.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 04, 2025, 09:28:14 AMNot sure if you listen to Stevie Ray Vaughan but it's looking "Tin Pan Alley" great!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGPx-ekqZEo
Philip,
I know Tin Pan Alley but don't listen to Vaughn.
Thanks for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on March 05, 2025, 11:31:24 AMTom fantastic job on the build and love the window treatment; may have to borrow that process.
How much more before you call it finished?
Larry,
Thank you as well and copy all you want. This is the place for sharing ideas and tips.
I think I'll have it finished in the next ten days or so.
Tom
I spent some time making some details for the out side of the structure.
I pulled out a newspaper sheet I had left over from a kit from last year.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160543-546122119.jpeg)
I cut out all of them and will make a newspaper stack.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160543-546132187.jpeg)
I found a kid hawking papers so I pulled him out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160543-546151910.jpeg)
The papers were folded over and glued in a stack. I used a newspaper cover to glue to the paper on the figure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160543-54614965.jpeg)
Over the years I've made it a habit to always copy signs that come with purchased kits.
I cut the Apartment sign from a copied sheet and glued it to a file folder. This particular sign had both a left and right side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160543-546161752.jpeg)
I cut a piece of file folder and painted it black to match the sign. I edge glued the sign to the folder.
The sign will be glued to the southwest corner of the building just above the stairs. It won't be glued to the building until I'm ready to "plant" it. It is to delicate to glue on now when I'm still working on the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160641-546171092.jpeg)
The screen door on the third floor was glued in an open position. I added a nice lady to the deck. I don't know if she if going in or coming out. I say she is a nice lady because she is waving to the train crew that passes on the track behind the Riff Raff Cafe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160641-54618614.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160641-546191928.jpeg)
Done for today.
Great detail Tom.
Tom, will you add outside lights? What color light on the 3rd floor? ;D
(Speaking of "friendly ladies", in 2000 we drove from Dresden to Prague. As soon as we crossed the Czech border, I said to my wife, "Women here sure are friendly! They're all waving." She said, "Huh, yeah. Why is that?" "Well, look how they're dressed!" "They're prostitutes?" "Yeah, I read about that in one of the travel guides." On the way back, I said to my wife, "We must be nearing the border with Germany, the women are getting friendly again.")
dave
Tom, those are all good additions.
Nice addition Tom!!
Jerry
Getting down to he nitty gritty details now! 8)
Philip
Howdy Tom, excellent detail as usual. mike
Tom great job on the added details. Great idea copying signs BEFORE you use them;
hope you did the same with the newspaper sheets which I've never seen before.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 05, 2025, 05:23:07 PMGreat detail Tom.
Thanks Curt, appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on March 05, 2025, 06:16:40 PMTom, will you add outside lights? What color light on the 3rd floor? ;D
(Speaking of "friendly ladies", in 2000 we drove from Dresden to Prague. As soon as we crossed the Czech border, I said to my wife, "Women here sure are friendly! They're all waving." She said, "Huh, yeah. Why is that?" "Well, look how they're dressed!" "They're prostitutes?" "Yeah, I read about that in one of the travel guides." On the way back, I said to my wife, "We must be nearing the border with Germany, the women are getting friendly again.")
dave
Dave,
That's funny. When I said, "nice lady", I meant "Nice Lady" as in a rail fan. I already have a Red Light District. 8) 8)
However, this could easily be a Cat House.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 05, 2025, 06:38:29 PMTom, those are all good additions.
Thank you Rick.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 05, 2025, 09:02:09 PMNice addition Tom!!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks very much for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 05, 2025, 10:26:17 PMGetting down to he nitty gritty details now! 8)
Philip
Philip,
Yes, very close for sure.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 06, 2025, 09:11:01 AMHowdy Tom, excellent detail as usual. mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you for the comment and for stopping by.
I'm still having fun on this one.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on March 06, 2025, 11:19:04 AMTom great job on the added details. Great idea copying signs BEFORE you use them;
hope you did the same with the newspaper sheets which I've never seen before.
Larry,
Thank you for the kind comment on the details. The newspapers are a nice addition to a business. If you need some newspapers, let me know - I'll send you an email with some and you can create multiple copies. Or just copy my newspaper photo above.
Tom
I'll have a goose neck lamp over each of the upper floor exterior doors.
I'm using Ngineering .025 OD (outside diameter) stainless tubing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160641-546201211.jpeg)
I use a Dremel Cut Off disc and cut a piece about an 1.5" in length. I use the steel pointed punch to clean out the cut end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160641-54621159.jpeg)
I used Evan Design Nano LEDs for the light in the goose neck. Evan Design is sold by Modeltrainsoftware.
WWW.modeltrainsoftware.com
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160225163410-543481949.jpeg)
Ngineering also sells a tool that makes it easy to bend the stainless tubing.
You can see in the next two photos how I bend the tubing using the tool.
NOTE: You need to feed the LED wires through the tubing prior to bending it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160732-546222200.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160732-54623144.jpeg)
Ngineering also sells lampshades for the goose neck arms.
I punch a small hole in the center of the shade using a steel pointer/punch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160732-54624812.jpeg)
Fast forward and you can see the two goose neck light arms. I have them in the clothespin to hold them upright while the glue dries on the lampshade and tubing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160732-54626863.jpeg)
Also referring to the photo below, I turned them upside and added a small drop of Canopy Glue. This seals the LED and when lit, defuses the light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160732-546251380.jpeg)
Here is how they look when lit. The cool white gives off a blue tint and is to bright for what I want them to look like.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160805-54627145.jpeg)
Here is how and what I did to change the look of the goose neck LED lights.
I used a toothpick, dipped one end in Tamiya Clear Yellow and just touched the toothpick to the center of the underside of the lampshade.
This gives the LED more of an incandescent look when lit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050325160805-546282200.jpeg)
Done for today. Time to take Pambo out to dinner.
I'll have another update tomorrow.
Interesting to see the result of transparent yellow paint over the cool white (blue tint) lights!
dave
Brilliant light-wavelength hack.
the gooseneck lights look great Tom.
One question though, did you anneal the stainless tubing before bending it?
Enjoy dinner with Pam.
You're a better man than me Tom! :o
Tom, That company is a good source for lighting.
That bending tool is slick.
Also liked how you warmed the color temp of those lights.
Just wow and thanks for the link! Are you using the yellow on the entire reflective surface of the shade?
Nice work there Tom. And thanks for the how to. When you put the drop of yellow on. Did you put it rite on the center of the LED ? Thank you Tom. Bob.
Quote from: PABOB on March 07, 2025, 10:12:48 AMNice work there Tom. And thanks for the how to. When you put the drop of yellow on. Did you put it rite on the center of the LED ? Thank you Tom. Bob.
Good question.............:)
Quote from: deemery on March 06, 2025, 05:10:23 PMInteresting to see the result of transparent yellow paint over the cool white (blue tint) lights!
dave
Dave,
It is and I used the toothpick to control the clear yellow. Using a paint brush may result in to much yellow. However, you can use a Q-tip dipped in alcohol to remove the yellow if it is still wet.
Tom
Quote from: Mr. Critter on March 06, 2025, 05:47:08 PMBrilliant light-wavelength hack.
Critter,
Thank you very much. This has been a fun scratch build.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 06, 2025, 07:15:00 PMthe gooseneck lights look great Tom.
One question though, did you anneal the stainless tubing before bending it?
Enjoy dinner with Pam.
Ron,
Thank you. No, It isn't necessary to anneal the stainless tubing. Well, let me put it this way, I never have and it has not been a problem and many of my goose neck lights have never had any issues. However, I guess you could, but that process may also melt the thin coating on the LED wires causing a short.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 06, 2025, 07:44:19 PMYou're a better man than me Tom! :o
Butty Curt,
No not really, I remember the first time I did it and it wasn't as hard as I thought.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 06, 2025, 07:51:41 PMTom, That company is a good source for lighting.
That bending tool is slick.
Also liked how you warmed the color temp of those lights.
Rick,
I've been using them for several years, actually, about 15+.
I tried bending a goose neck over a #11 handle, it works but is more difficult.
Thanks for the comment and for stopping by.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 06, 2025, 11:18:07 PMJust wow and thanks for the link! Are you using the yellow on the entire reflective surface of the shade?
Philip,
You are very welcome. Yes, and I'll go into more detail on my next update.
Tom
Quote from: PABOB on March 07, 2025, 10:12:48 AMNice work there Tom. And thanks for the how to. When you put the drop of yellow on. Did you put it rite on the center of the LED ? Thank you Tom. Bob.
Bob,
Thank you, much appreciated and you are welcome.
I'll answer your question in the next update.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 07, 2025, 10:24:18 AMQuote from: PABOB on March 07, 2025, 10:12:48 AMNice work there Tom. And thanks for the how to. When you put the drop of yellow on. Did you put it rite on the center of the LED ? Thank you Tom. Bob.
Good question.............:)
Philip and Bob,
It is a great question and I'll go into more detail on another way to cover the yellow.
Stay tuned for the next update later this afternoon.
Tom
Howdy Tom, nice work on the lights. Ngineering stuff is great. I wish the had the gooseneck fixture for O scale. Have fun, mike
Tom nice work on the goosenecks and I can't believe how bright they are.
Quote from: friscomike on March 07, 2025, 11:16:28 AMHowdy Tom, nice work on the lights. Ngineering stuff is great. I wish the had the gooseneck fixture for O scale. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you sir. Ngineering has sure changed how I light structures. Maybe one day they will do some O scale lights. I don't think it would be to difficult to do.
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on March 07, 2025, 03:20:39 PMTom nice work on the goosenecks and I can't believe how bright they are.
Larry,
Thanks very much. They turned out very good.
Tom
Yesterday I forgot to show the difference side by side.
The one light on the right obviously has the yellow tint added. It tones down the brightness but still gives off plenty of light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152649-546311265.jpeg)
Philip and Bob asked where I applied the clear yellow.
I applied it to the center of the underside of the gooseneck. The clear yellow seeks it's own level so that is why I have the light down side up. You can add more it desired.
Remember, the clear yellow was added to the Canopy Glue once it dried clear. Otherwise, the yellow would so directly on the LED. Also, from experience I can tell you that you won't get an even light if you only put the clear yellow on the LED.
You can see the LED in the lampshade and it appears to not be encased in Canopy Glue. It is; however, and that is why it looks yellow across the entire underside.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152649-54632609.jpeg)
I mentioned another method of applying the clear yellow. I've done it both ways and personally like what I showed earlier in the narrative.
The Canopy Glue and Tamiya Clear Yellow can be mixed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152749-546381435.jpeg)
The clear yellow looks dark due to it being on the cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152749-546391001.jpeg)
I used a toothpick to mix the glue and paint. You can add this mix to the underside of the shade and cover the LED and let dry. I used the toothpick to thin it out so it will dry faster and you can see its clear.
Again, it looks dark from being on the cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152749-54640817.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152839-546412039.jpeg)
I wanted to add escutcheons to the gooseneck arms.
This is how I made them.
I took a piece of brass tubing and cut off a piece about two inches long.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152650-546331647.jpeg)
I used the Dremel cutoff disc and rolled the end of the cut piece in my fingers against the surface of the disc. By doing this, I removed the outer part of the tubing and giving me a very thin edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152650-546352415.jpeg)
I then placed the circular cutting tube on a file folder. I used a small hammer and punched through the folder.
This worked perfectly for making the escutcheons for the neck arms.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152749-54636648.jpeg)
I then used a metal pointer/awl and push a hole in the center. Easy peasy escutcheons.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152749-546371435.jpeg)
I painted the lampshade a dark green, the arm and escutcheon weathered black. While the weathered black was drying, I added Bragdon Rust colored pigment for the rusty appearance.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152839-546432317.jpeg)
Back in a few. I'm over due for a Diet Pepsi! 8)
I drilled holes in the wall for both lights and glued them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152839-546441673.jpeg)
Let there be light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070325152931-546461761.jpeg)
Done for today.
Let there be light...looking great
terry
Great lighting effects Tom.
Hello Tom, you sure are putting a lot of effort into this build. I'm enjoying every bit of it and also am getting ideas that I can use on some of my future builds. Thank you.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 07, 2025, 03:32:22 PMQuote from: friscomike on March 07, 2025, 11:16:28 AMHowdy Tom, nice work on the lights. Ngineering stuff is great. I wish the had the gooseneck fixture for O scale. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you sir. Ngineering has sure changed how I light structures. Maybe one day they will do some O scale lights. I don't think it would be to difficult to do.
Still having fun.
Tom
Tom,
I have used the HO scale goosenecks on a couple of O scale buildings, I find that they look right in O scale.
Tom, thanks for going into more detail on using the yellow paint on the lights.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 07, 2025, 10:35:45 AMQuote from: elwoodblues on March 06, 2025, 07:15:00 PMthe gooseneck lights look great Tom.
One question though, did you anneal the stainless tubing before bending it?
Enjoy dinner with Pam.
Ron,
Thank you. No, It isn't necessary to anneal the stainless tubing. Well, let me put it this way, I never have and it has not been a problem and many of my goose neck lights have never had any issues. However, I guess you could, but that process may also melt the thin coating on the LED wires causing a short.
Tom
Tom,
The reason I asked is that I use a completely different method on making my goosenecks. First thing I do is anneal the stainless tubing. Once annealed I insert a stainless rod into the tubing before bending. This prevents the tubing wall from collapsing during the bending process. Once bent the rod is extracted and then the leads of the LED can be fed through the tubing.
Tom,
The finished and installed lights look fantastic. I never thought of using clear yellow paint to warm up the lights. Back in the day the only white LED's had a deep blue hue to them and I used orange clear paint to get the incandescent light look to them. Today I used warm white LED's. The next time I need recolour a LED, I'll try the clear yellow paint.
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on March 07, 2025, 04:24:06 PMLet there be light...looking great
terry
Terry,
Thank you. Good to see you today.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 07, 2025, 05:38:11 PMGreat lighting effects Tom.
Curt,
Thanks my friend. Good to see you today also.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on March 07, 2025, 06:52:09 PMHello Tom, you sure are putting a lot of effort into this build. I'm enjoying every bit of it and also am getting ideas that I can use on some of my future builds. Thank you.
Jeff,
Thank you sir. Yes, I am as it is going on the layout and is right next to the center isle for visitors to see up close in every detail.
Happy to hear you are getting some good tips for future builds.
Your build looks great as well.
Tom
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 07, 2025, 07:29:53 PMTom, thanks for going into more detail on using the yellow paint on the lights.
Rick,
You are very welcome sir.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 07, 2025, 07:50:24 PMTom,
The finished and installed lights look fantastic. I never thought of using clear yellow paint to warm up the lights. Back in the day the only white LED's had a deep blue hue to them and I used orange clear paint to get the incandescent light look to them. Today I used warm white LED's. The next time I need recolour a LED, I'll try the clear yellow paint.
Ron,
I appreciate the compliment on the build. I never bend this tubing at 90 degrees, well not yet anyway, so maybe the tubing will collapse then. Question, how can you remove the inserted tube after the stainless tube is bent?
Tom
Thanks Tom! Very good instructions on tinting those lil Led's.
Quote from: Philip on March 08, 2025, 02:11:37 PMThanks Tom! Very good instructions on tinting those lil Led's.
Philip,
You are very welcome and I'll have an update later this afternoon. I'm nearing the end.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 08, 2025, 01:47:38 PMQuote from: elwoodblues on March 07, 2025, 07:50:24 PMTom,
The finished and installed lights look fantastic. I never thought of using clear yellow paint to warm up the lights. Back in the day the only white LED's had a deep blue hue to them and I used orange clear paint to get the incandescent light look to them. Today I used warm white LED's. The next time I need recolour a LED, I'll try the clear yellow paint.
Ron,
I appreciate the compliment on the build. I never bend this tubing at 90 degrees, well not yet anyway, so maybe the tubing will collapse then. Question, how can you remove the inserted tube after the stainless tube is bent?
Tom
Tom,
I use a pair of pliers to pull the rod out of the tubing.
Nice work on the lights Tom. Always enjoy seeing building with lighting. Adds another dimension.
And good tip on turning the bright white to a more yellow.
I've done similar for the navigation lights on my boats, using clear red & green.
Saves having to buy a different colour LED when you already have plenty of white ones.
I used 3M transfer tape to hold the rolled roofing paper. For the rolled roofing I used Stoney Creek Roof Papers. Unfortunately, the owner of Stoney Creek passed and they are no longer offering the product. Fortunately, I ordered a big lot of each roof color months prior to his passing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163757-546731024.jpeg)
I over lapped the roofing and added a small repair patch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163757-546742220.jpeg)
Quote from: robert goslin on March 09, 2025, 04:12:16 PMNice work on the lights Tom. Always enjoy seeing building with lighting. Adds another dimension.
And good tip on turning the bright white to a more yellow.
I've done similar for the navigation lights on my boats, using clear red & green.
Saves having to buy a different colour LED when you already have plenty of white ones.
Rob,
Thank you very much for the kind and generous compliment on the build.
I have the clear red and green and used them on my marker lights for the locos and observation cars. You are correct in that it saves money in just using the whites.
Lighting brings the models to life.
Tom
For weathering the roof, I used Weber Costello Pastel chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163757-54675149.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163757-546761718.jpeg)
I use a small stiff brush for gathering the chalks. I rub the stiff brush on the chalk and then paint it on the roof.
The reason I use a small brush is that I want the chalk just below the overlap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163757-54677407.jpeg)
I then use a wider stiff brush to bring the chalk down from the top to the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163924-54678924.jpeg)
I also use different shades of gray and brown for additional weathering.
I used Galley Glass Liquid Leading to add pitch around the red patch. The patch wasn't weathered as it is a fairly new patch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163924-54679883.jpeg)
I then glued the roof to the flat iron building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163924-54680403.jpeg)
The roofing paper was pushed down around the vent pipe after this photo was taken.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325163924-54681867.jpeg)
Back later, taking a Diet Pepsi break.
Tom beautiful weathering on that tar paper roof!
Did you get my message I sent to you on the forum messaging system??
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on March 09, 2025, 05:14:44 PMTom beautiful weathering on that tar paper roof!
Did you get my message I sent to you on the forum messaging system??
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the compliment. No, I just checked and there was no narrative with your message.
I got one you sent on March 5 , 2025 and I answered that one. Did you send another one?
Tom
I added a small roof access hatch. I bent a short piece of wire for the handle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325164021-546831101.jpeg)
I glued on the Apartments for Rent sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325164022-546842173.jpeg)
I added some crates and a cardboard box. The gas meter is a 3D printed one from Darryl at Interaction Hobbies.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325164022-54685451.jpeg)
I cut a short piece of #22 wire and stripped the coating. I then wrapped the bare wire around a toothpick.
I then painted it with Floqujil Dark Green and glued it under the water faucet. The faucet is a 3D print from Interaction Hobbies.. After this photo, I touched up the ends of the staircase cross member ends.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325173549-546891389.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325112846-54690846.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090325164022-546862354.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom your build is really coming together nicely. Wish Coke was 5 cents again. Lol.
I'll have to remember your water hose trick; cool.
Quote from: Larry C on March 09, 2025, 05:45:38 PMTom your build is really coming together nicely. Wish Coke was 5 cents again.Lol.
Larry,
Thank you very much. I wish many things were still 5 cents. ;D
Tom
The best build threads are both informational and inspirational. Your threads, like ReadingBob's threads, always teach me new tricks, as well as inspiring me to get my butt back down to the basement and build something!
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 09, 2025, 06:08:25 PMThe best build threads are both informational and inspirational. Your threads, like ReadingBob's threads, always teach me new tricks, as well as inspiring me to get my butt back down to the basement and build something!
dave
Dave,
That is such a high compliment. And, I think you very much. To be in the same class as Bob is an honor. When I grow up, I want to be like Reading Bob in builds.
Again, thank you very much.
Tom
That is a good looking build, very nice work Tom
Truly outstanding modeling Tom, and I can tell everyone that it looks better in person.
Quote from: DaleM on March 09, 2025, 06:14:41 PMThat is a good looking build, very nice work Tom
Dale,
Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 10, 2025, 06:52:50 AMTruly outstanding modeling Tom, and I can tell everyone that it looks better in person.
Curt,
Thank you very much my friend. I agree, it looks better to me in person as well.
I had fun Saturday, thanks for stopping by and adding to our BS session.
Tom
Howdy Tom,
Your work no the roof is excellent. The details complement the build. Terrific work.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: friscomike on March 10, 2025, 09:25:27 AMHowdy Tom,
Your work no the roof is excellent. The details complement the build. Terrific work.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you for the kind compliment on the roof and build.
I'm still having fun.
Tom
While waiting on some glue to dry, I turned to the small scenery area located just north of the Flat Iron Building, The RiffRaff Cafe actually.
I used blue painters tape to tape off the road and the real estate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325143907-546912282.jpeg)
I painted the small area with Elmer's White Glue and added a grassy base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325143907-546921184.jpeg)
I layered more scenery and added a tall Florida Palm. The palm needed to be supported over night while the roots took hold in the soil.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325143907-54693132.jpeg)
Amazingly the roots took to ground overnight and some wild flowers are now growing.
The palm is Walthers with some extra attention to the fronds to kill the plastic look. Shades of dark green and medium brown were dry brushed on the fronds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325143907-546941307.jpeg)
There are many plastic utility poles available on the market but this is a scratch build.
I took a 1/8' wood dowel and cut it to 42 HO scale feet in length. I needed to allow for some of the length to be planted.
I used a Zona saw blade to roughen the pole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144055-546951148.jpeg)
I cut a 4X4 to 1 1/4" or 10 HO scale feet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144055-54696963.jpeg)
I marked the center of the cross arm and used a round file to cut a grove into the cross arm.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144055-546972460.jpeg)
I then glued the cross arm to the pole 2.5 feet from the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144055-546982089.jpeg)
I drilled small holes in the top of the cross arm and glued brass wire into the holes. I slipped green beads from the craft store onto the brass wire and glued the beads in place.
I cut two cross arm braces using HO scale 2X4s and glued them in place.
I stained the pole, cross arm and braces with a brown A&I alcohol mix.
Fast forward here and I have a utility pole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144055-54699993.jpeg)
I cut a short piece of 4X4, drilled three holes at an angle and then stained it with the same brown A&I mix. I glued the brass wire and green beads in place and glue it to the side of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144505-54713373.jpeg)
The Utility Company was available and installed the pole between the paved area and the railroad right of way.
I won't install the wires until I get more of the other structures in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144304-54702216.jpeg)
I'm 99.9% finished with the structure and will post the final photos of the 2024/2025 Challenge Build tomorrow afternoon.
I'll add my thoughts on the build tomorrow also.
I appreciate all the comments that have been posted.
You can come do my tree planting anytime!!
Beautiful work on that utility pole.
Great tutorial all the way through on this build.
Jerry
Howdy Tom, great finish on the build. I look forward to your after action report. Have fun, mike
Way to go Tom, those details really make the scene pop. Great job on the pole and the tree planting. I think you need to give us the type of fertilizer you used to have those flowers grow and bloom that fast. 8)
I saw my first Florida palm tree just after crossing the state line a couple of weeks ago.
Tom, these last couple of additions look outstanding!
Quote from: Jerry on March 10, 2025, 04:39:37 PMYou can come do my tree planting anytime!!
Beautiful work on that utility pole.
Great tutorial all the way through on this build.
Jerry
Jerry,
Jerry thank you for all the kind comments, I appreciate you following along.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 10, 2025, 05:59:23 PMHowdy Tom, great finish on the build. I look forward to your after action report. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much and following along on this build. I did have fun.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 10, 2025, 08:46:17 PMWay to go Tom, those details really make the scene pop. Great job on the pole and the tree planting. I think you need to give us the type of fertilizer you used to have those flowers grow and bloom that fast. 8)
I saw my first Florida palm tree just after crossing the state line a couple of weeks ago.
Ron,
Thank you for the compliment and being a follower of this build thread.
Everything grows fast in Florida.
When you get a free Saturday, you are very welcome to come visit the A&S RR. Let me know a couple weeks in advance and I'll have the Saturday Butty Group here to meet you. We are 127 miles south of Jacksonville. You'll get to participate in our quality BS sessions.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 10, 2025, 09:58:45 PMTom, these last couple of additions look outstanding!
Rick,
Thank you as well Rick. I appreciate all the comments and you following along on this build.
Tom
If you are like me, I don't like reading long screeds in a build thread. I loose interest and you know from following my threads, I keep it short and to the point. So, that said, I'll try to keep this one short.
When I decided to join the Winter Build Challenge, I was unsure of what I wanted to build. At this stage in the layout, I don't have the time to build a structure that will end up being a shelf orphan.
My main focus now is to get the center isle, Tahope, populated with structures. I looked at the space I had available and decided a structure just north of the large FOS Flat Iron District build would be the location for the challenge build.
As it worked out, the space available was the shape of a flat iron. I also knew this build would be a challenge and I wanted to scratch build a Victorian style structure that would look and fit the space and style of the FOS Flat Iron.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171123173553-52117949.jpeg)
I wanted the lower front to look Victorian but also look completely different for the rest of the FOS kit.
Well, what can I say; Tom you did a fantastic job on this build and I especially like your attention to detail. That looks amazing on your layout and certainly looks like it belongs there. Very well done!!!!!
I knew how I wanted this challenge build to look. My goal, through out, this build was to follow what I had in mind and stick to that though process for the final look.
I also know two stories wouldn't look correct and four stories was to tall for the space.
Drawing, cutting, gluing and scratch building the lower front was a great deal of fun and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I believe the stained glass look was appropriate for the cafe as well. I made sure my measurements were precise as the slightest mistake would be magnified as the build progressed.
I also had to be sure to keep the second and third level windows at the same height for the building to look believable.
Cutting the stringers was a challenge but I've done it for several other builds. I'll use commercial stringers from now on to save time.
The Victorian Cafe front and the rear staircase are the two main visual effects on the build. One front and one in the rear. The rear faces the track and is the most visible to the viewer/visitor.
I tried to stay true to the details I had in mind. The only thing that will be added later is the electrical hookup wires from the building to the utility pole.
I made a few mistakes along the way but they were easily fixable.
Here are the final pictures on this build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144406-547061223.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144406-547071031.jpeg)
Quote from: Larry C on March 11, 2025, 04:52:52 PMWell, what can I say; Tom you did a fantastic job on this build and I especially like your attention to detail. That looks amazing on your layout and certainly looks like it belongs there. Very well done!!!!!
Larry,
Thank you for the very generous and kind compliment on the challenge build. This was fun to scratch build but now I'm looking forward to my next project whatever that may be.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144505-547091455.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144304-54702216.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144303-547012196.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144406-547052340.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144304-54703189.jpeg)
Looks like someone left the water on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144304-547042049.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144406-547081627.jpeg)
Back in a few, you know what time it is!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144505-54710759.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144505-547111192.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144505-547121355.jpeg)
Only a bird could see this lady undressing, er, I mean getting dressed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144505-54713373.jpeg)
The cat in the window is looking out to see what's what!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144552-547141779.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144552-547151644.jpeg)
Polly is waving to the train crew.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144552-547162094.jpeg)
Here is the last photo of this build. It is also the 458th photo I listed to show the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100325144553-547171764.jpeg)
Done for today.
Awesome job, Tom! Very well done. 8)
Tom
Great modeling, as always. The backlit cat in the window is a perfect detail. Love it! Great to see a build thread again, my friend.
Howdy Tom,
Flt Iron is a testament to your skills and creativity. Execution of your design was perfect. Well done.
Have fun,
mike
ACL 1504~,
Brother Tom, I'm simply blown away by the attention to detail on this awesome scratch build. Your modeling skills are top shelf brother!
I just love the way you pizza squeezed this highly detailed eye candy into a dedicated spot on the layout. 8)
Thanx Thom...
Great to this one one finished Tom. Superb work as always, and I enjoy all the little tips you give along the way.
And the location is spot on. Fills an awkward location, that obviously just wouldn't work with a square building. Good use of the real estate.
You out did yourself again Tom. What an outstanding scratchbuild. Can you do a couple of night shots?
Tom, congratulations on completing another outstanding build.
Hello Tom, I agree with Rick- outstanding job.
Another wonderful build, Tom. Interesting that you had to detail all sides as it's visible from both sides of the peninsula.
Jeff
Excellent work!!!
Jerry
Topnotch! And educational.