Okay, it's time to throw my hat into the ring. :D
Note: Although the prizes are really neat, I'd like to add that I don't need any more kits so please, should I happen to qualify for one, give it to the next person in line. ;)
For my Winter Challenge 2024 thread I'm going to build two FOS background flats, Mitchell Distillers (https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/mitchell-distillers-ho-scale-background-kit) and Cookson Soap (https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/cookson-soap-ho-scale-background-kit). Both are kits I hope to use on the shelf layout I want to build. Once I have these together, I'll have a better feel for how much real estate they'll really take up. I plan on hand laying my track so having a definitive plan before I start construction is must.
Here are the two kits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105149-532862466.jpeg)
The contents of Cookson Soap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105150-532872140.jpeg)
The contents of Mitchell Distillery.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105151-532882434.jpeg)
Before separating things, I like to mark the part number on each part (as indicated in the instructions) using a pen. This is not always necessary if the parts are unique looking enough but sometimes it comes in handy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105152-532891545.jpeg)
Starting with a new single edge razor blade I removed the walls from the carrier sheets but slicing through the points of contact holding them into the sheets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105152-532902036.jpeg)
Then I sand the edges of the wall sections using an emery board. This process squares the edges (the laser cut leaves a slight angle) and removes and nubs left where the contact points were cut with the razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105241-532911087.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;D
I cleaned up the metal castings, where needed, using a small, flat, file. Sanding sticks, emery boards, etc. work for small touch ups.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105241-53292868.jpeg)
I removed the plastic windows and doors from the sprues using a sprue cutter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105242-532931621.jpeg)
A couple of quick swipes with and emery board takes care of any nubs left where the cuts were.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105243-53294998.jpeg)
To be safe, I placed the doors and windows in their openings to make sure there weren't any missing. It's frustrating to paint, weather, glaze, etc. all the window castings only to find out that you're short one when you go to install them. In this case, they were all accounted for. Had one been missing I have a couple boxes of Tichy assorted door and window castings that I could have raided to replace the missing component. If I'm short one later, I can only blame myself for losing it. Not that that's ever happened. :-[
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105244-532951602.jpeg)
Both kits include some Tichy 55-gallon barrels. Where these connect to the sprues is too thick for my sprue cutter, so I resort to using an old pair of flush cut rail nippers to remove them from the sprue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105335-532961553.jpeg)
There's a vent, include with Mitchell Distillery, that is made up of two halves that need to be glued together and then several bands that get slipped over and glued into place. I opted to build this prior to painting all the details parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105336-532971553.jpeg)
Here are the two halves getting glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105337-53298613.jpeg)
It's hard to see the band in this picture but I'm sliding it over the end and into position. I put a heavier bead of glue on the back of the vent (the side that will face the wall and not be seen) than the sides and front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105337-53299711.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Finally, there's a small grate that goes over the vent opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105338-53300688.jpeg)
To prime everything that needs to be primed (at least the things I thought needed to be primed at this point) I taped some strips of painter's tape, upside down, on an old baking tray I use for this purpose. The top row are the parts from Cookson and the bottom two are the parts from Mitchell. I'll use a rattle can Khaki color to paint these.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105425-533022492.jpeg)
To add the bracing, I smeared some glue along one edge of the 1/8" strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105426-533032120.jpeg)
For the bracing that goes at the rear of the structure I used a piece of photo mounting board as a gauge to keep the bracing from being right against the back. I hope to install a sheet of photo mounting board inside the back as a view block and to keep the light from escaping out the back against the back drop.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105427-53304579.jpeg)
After installing the bracing, I weigh it down for a few minutes until the glue grabs hold.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105428-533052402.jpeg)
Then I trimmed the bracing, to fit, using a single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105521-533061655.jpeg)
Time for lunch so I'm going to stop here for today. Thanks for following along! :)
Grand start Bob, I'll be looking in..... :)
Bob builds are always informative and welcome.
Jeff
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 16, 2024, 01:36:29 PMGrand start Bob, I'll be looking in..... :)
Thanks, Greg! These will be on the new layout. I need to come up with a track plan before I start construction. Having them completed will tell me where the track has to go, in relation to the structures. Hand laying the track, as you're well aware, requires a more refined plan before you start. The track can't be moved around quite as easy after the fact.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on December 16, 2024, 04:28:45 PMBob builds are always informative and welcome.
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff! :) I'll make sure the boys at the Mitchell Distillery order the barrels they need from the Jeffries Point Stave and Heading Company on your layout. ;)
Great start Bob. And as usual your wonderful tutorials.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 18, 2024, 11:38:46 PMGreat start Bob. And as usual your wonderful tutorials.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! I know I repeat myself, a lot, but I always figure/hope there's someone new to the forum that may be reading my thread for the first time. ;)
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 17, 2024, 10:19:38 AMQuote from: GPdemayo on December 16, 2024, 01:36:29 PMGrand start Bob, I'll be looking in..... :)
Thanks, Greg! These will be on the new layout. I need to come up with a track plan before I start construction. Having them completed will tell me where the track has to go, in relation to the structures. Hand laying the track, as you're well aware, requires a more refined plan before you start. The track can't be moved around quite as easy after the fact.
You're right, hand laying does require a bit more planning, but I do love the result..... ::)
Bob,
This will be a real stunner and your STS never disappoint.
Looking forward to your choice of colors.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 21, 2024, 08:21:04 AMBob,
This will be a real stunner and your STS never disappoint.
Looking forward to your choice of colors.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! The colors will be pretty plain. Mostly white. I'm leaning towards heavy weathering for the soap company and lighter weathering for the distillery. :)
Hello Bob, it's nice to see that you are building some kits for your own layout for a change. I'm looking forward to seeing your layout progress.
Quote from: nycjeff on December 22, 2024, 08:36:01 AMHello Bob, it's nice to see that you are building some kits for your own layout for a change. I'm looking forward to seeing your layout progress.
Thanks, Jeff! Yep, I need to get going on a track plan and having these completed should help. I also need to attempt to tackle CadRail, once again. That sort of thing is not in my comfort zone. ::)
Great modeling so far (as usual) Bob.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 08, 2025, 01:43:15 PMGreat modeling so far (as usual) Bob.
Thanks, Curt! Hope to provide an update soon. I've been back at it.
Looks great so far & following your build.
Philip
Just looking for that update Bob!
Jerry
Quote from: Philip on February 21, 2025, 09:47:55 AMLooks great so far & following your build.
Philip
Thanks, Philp! Appreciate having you following along!
Quote from: Jerry on February 21, 2025, 09:53:56 AMJust looking for that update Bob!
Jerry
Okay Jerry! Here it comes (finally). ;)
Well, it's been quite a while since I've provided an update so let's get to it.
I braced the walls for both kits. Here's the walls for soap company. I tried to leave a little bit of a gap at the rear to allow a piece of photo mounting board to be inserted to block out the rear. More on that later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105522-533072069.jpeg)
And here are the walls for the distillery.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105523-53308748.jpeg)
Next up I painted the interior of the walls black with a cheap craft store acrylic (to think I used to waste expensive Floquil Grimy Black for the this).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105524-53309257.jpeg)
The exterior of the walls was then stained with Hunterline Weathering Mix Driftwood (I also like their Light Gray for this step but grabbed the Driftwood this time around).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105524-533101478.jpeg)
I should have done this next step before I stained the walls, but it won't make much of a difference. For the walls that are not clapboard I roughed them up a bit with this welder's brush I picked at Home Depot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105602-533112413.jpeg)
Now it's time to paint the walls, windows, etc. At this point I'm going to focus on just the soap company and set the distillery aside, so I don't confuse myself. :P One section of the soap company I painted with Vallejo Iraqi Sand (70.819) by dabbing the paint on with a make-up sponge (these are really cheap, clean up easily and work well for this chore).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161224105602-533121474.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;D
At this point I decided to paint all the detail castings for both kits. Now, I also had a stack of detail castings sitting on the workbench that were unrelated to this project, so I decided to paint those as well. That process took a lot longer than it should have, hence the delay in updating this thread. Basically, I start by painting the rusty stuff first. I experiment a lot with rust using Vallejo, AK Rust Effect Colors, Acrylics such as Burnt Umber, etc. Then I just grab various colors (reds, blues, greens, browns, etc.) and start looking for things on each casting that might benefit from being painted the color I'm working with. Eventually my workbench looks like a total disaster area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132341-544081800.jpeg)
Once the detail castings were painted, and set aside (John/Cuse I have small box of them here for you whenever you're in the area) I returned to the walls of the soap company. I painted the clapboard walls white and then started my weathering process by dabbing on Dove Gray using a sponge that had most of the paint removed. I'm not trying to paint the walls gray. I'm just trying to get some speckles of gray over the while to make it appear the while paint had peeled away exposing the primer underneath. It's difficult to see give the effect when it's light gray over white but it's there. I did this for the walls and the doors, windows and trim pieces (which were also painted white).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132342-544101265.jpeg)
I repeated the 'dry sponging' of color over the walls but this time I used Khaki Tan so represent where the paint may have completely come off and exposed the wood beneath.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132343-544112192.jpeg)
The next step was to add rows of nail holes using a ponce wheel and steel ruler. Spaced every (scale) two feet or lining up with the door and/or window openings. Whatever looked appropriate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132343-54412918.jpeg)
Next up was to rough up the walls a bit with a chisel blade in the X-Acto handle. Lifting up some clapboards here and there and even twisting the blade a bit to break off some small pieces. My plan is to weather the soap company a little heavier than the distillary.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132344-544131711.jpeg)
The next step was to apply A&I (Rubbing Alcohol and India Ink mixture) to walls. Given these are white I needed to be a bit careful as to how dark the A&I mix was, so I had my A&I mix as well as a bottle of just A handy so I could thin it further, if needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132457-54414841.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
The final step in weathering the walls, doors, windows, trim, etc. was to drybrush everything with an acrylic Ivory White. I used to use Floquil Antique White for this, but the acrylic is much more forgiving. It's easy to wipe it off if you get a little too heavy handed. The trick is to load the brush with a bit of paint and the remove most of the paint by brusing it on a piece of paper or cardboard before applying it to the structure. All I want is to highlight the edges or raised surfaces a tiny bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132458-544151917.jpeg)
For glazing of the doors and windows I like to use Microscale Industries Micor Krystal Klear. Just take a bit and draw it across the opening, from the rear, to fill it in. Then prop it up and let it dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132459-544161300.jpeg)
I added the corner pieces (1/16" square strip wood painted/weather the same color as the walls) the edges as per the templates. Longer than necessary but I'll trim them to fit after the fact.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132500-544172247.jpeg)
Trimming to fit using a single edged razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132501-544182489.jpeg)
To glue the windows in place I simply lined the inside of the opening with glue (Canopy Glue to be exact).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132602-544191209.jpeg)
And then pressed the window in place (being careful to get it oriented the proper way).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132603-544201520.jpeg)
More in a moment... 8)
I added shades to the windows (to block the view inside where there's nothing to see) by gluing some paper that was painted a light green color (tan colors work as well).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132604-544212487.jpeg)
Time to start gluing walls together! This is my favorite step as things really start to take shape. I want to make sure everything is square when doing this, so I use a square (of course).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132605-544221040.jpeg)
For a normal structure I'd glue the front wall to one side wall and the rear wall to the other side wall and then glue the two halves together. But this is a background flat to there is no rear wall. Following the instructions I have these two sections that then need to be glued together. Given the tab in slot design, it's easy to figure out where they go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132606-54423752.jpeg)
And here they are together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132657-544241308.jpeg)
There's one more small section that will get added after the roofing has been completed. This section consists of two walls that are covered in individual pieces of strip wood (simply stained with Driftwood Weathering Mix). I applied 3M Transfer tape to the two walls which gives them a sticky surface, when you remove the backing, to hold the strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132657-544251838.jpeg)
I applied the strip wood and trimmed to fit after the fact.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132658-544261716.jpeg)
Trimming to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-210225132659-544271745.jpeg)
And that's all for today! Next time I'll get into the roofing and loading dock.
Thanks for following along! :)
Both buildings look very good Bob. I like the step by step directions.
Looking good Bob..... 8)
Bob,
Excellent my friend. I love the weathering and the faded wall color. Your SBS never disappoint.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 23, 2025, 12:32:58 PMBoth buildings look very good Bob. I like the step by step directions.
Thanks, Curt! I'm finally moving forward again with this one. On to the roofing!
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2025, 01:08:30 PMLooking good Bob..... 8)
Thanks, Greg! Glad to have you following along.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 23, 2025, 01:09:06 PMBob,
Excellent my friend. I love the weathering and the faded wall color. Your SBS never disappoint.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! Once I get both of these completed, I'll have a better idea if they'll work side by side. I'm hoping they do but it'll depend on whether the depth (back drop to loading dock) is close enough to a track to service both. Currently I'm thinking of having the larger distillery to the left and the smaller soap company to the right. The siding will end at the distillery. For switching purposes, the distillery will have more activity and should be able to handle two cars whereas the soap company will only be able to handle one car. The added challenge will be having a car spotted at the soap company in the way when picking up/dropping off cars at the distillery. :P
Thanks for the excellent SBS.
I like the tip about sponging the gray and tan after you painted the walls white.
Looks like everything's going together the way it's supposed to.
Nice work well presented to the masses ;)
Thanks for the update.
As usual your coloring and weathering is right on.
And the step by step couldn't be better.
Jerry
Quote from: Rick on February 24, 2025, 07:16:57 PMThanks for the excellent SBS.
I like the tip about sponging the gray and tan after you painted the walls white.
Looks like everything's going together the way it's supposed to.
Thanks, Rick! I've tried other methods of weathering the walls but settled on that one as my standard. I forgot to mention if I get a little too much gray/tan on in one particular spot I can correct it, to a degree, when applying the final Hunterline or A&I was by scrubbing it a little bit with a brush to thin the paints and mix them together.
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on February 24, 2025, 07:42:01 PMNice work well presented to the masses ;)
Thanks, Karl! Always happy to share what I've learned over the years. Mostly from forums like this one.
Quote from: Jerry on February 24, 2025, 10:27:43 PMThanks for the update.
As usual your coloring and weathering is right on.
And the step by step couldn't be better.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! Happy to have you following along and appreciate the comments.
Time for a short update. Probably won't get these done by the deadline but c'est la vie.
I almost opted to not light this kit because of the unique nature of it but I went ahead and did it anyway. I'll go into more detail on lighting when I get to that step in the other background flat. This one took 3 LED's and one current limiter. Worked the first time I tested it. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173143-54720394.jpeg)
Not a great picture because the top floor is cut off but trust me, there's a light up there as well. Hard to see that they on but they are.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173144-547211518.jpeg)
I should have done this when I painted the walls, trim and windows but the edge and bottom of the roof cards were painted the same trim color, white in this case. Just in case any of it will be visible. I didn't want the cardboard color showing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173144-54722473.jpeg)
I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the top of the roof cards and trimmed it to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173145-54723936.jpeg)
I'm going to use Stoney Creed Designs roofing paper (sadly, no longer available) for two of the roofs. I cut it into scale 3' strips and then sanded the backside of the paper, along one edge, to get a somewhat ragged edge, by dragging it across a sheet of 100 grit sandpaper while pressing down with a fingertip (which also got sanded ::)).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173146-547241495.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Peeling of the backing of the 3M Transfer tape exposes the adhesive material that's stuck to the roof card.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173250-5472523.jpeg)
Which makes it easy to apply the strips of roofing material. Just get them lined up properly before pressing them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173251-547262212.jpeg)
After applying a few strips of roofing material, I then trimmed them using a pair of scissors. I'd didn't trim them flush with the edge of the card, except where the card meets a wall. I allowed for a little overhang so i could fold it down over the edge of the card.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173252-54727158.jpeg)
Okay, two of the roof cards get covered with corrugated metal strips. I cheated a bit here. Rather than prep the corrugated material included in the kit I found I had enough scraps from previous builds, already cut/painted/weathered, to do the job so I used them. These were also applied using 3M Transfer Tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173253-54728504.jpeg)
The loading dock was next up. I painted it using a "Cool Concrete" color acrylic paint. I dipped my brush in the paint and then dipped it in some Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty to thicken the paint. This adds a little texture but also helps to hide the joints a bit. I dabbed the paint on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173254-54729371.jpeg)
The kit comes with a neat little cardboard jig to construct the roof top hoist. Simply cut the stripwood to fit the jig and glue the pieces together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173341-54730135.jpeg)
And here are some pictures of the, more or less, completed background flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173342-54731458.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173343-547321431.jpeg)
Last picture for today. I painted the walls for the distillery a different shade of white (not that you'll be able to tell after weathering) and then proceeded to paint the doors, windows and trim pieces with a Light Avocado color that I like.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100325173344-5473329.jpeg)
That's where things currently sit. More to come when I have something else to show.
Thanks for following along! ;D
That looks outstanding Bob. Can we get a night shot?
Bob,
Wow, that turned out great. Love the step by step and the weathering is fantastic. Well done my friend.
Tom
Bob, that's a little jewel of a model.
Thanks for sharing all your SBS's.
Great build,RB...thanks for the SBS
terry
Bob, how do you mark that white lamp cord so you get the DC polarity correct?
dave
Hello Bob, another great build.
The soap company looks great. I'll have to try the paint/water putty technique. Thanks for that.
Jeff
Another wonderful build and great tutorial as usual.
Thanks for all the tips along the way!
Jerry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 12, 2025, 07:22:03 AMThat looks outstanding Bob. Can we get a night shot?
Thanks, Curt! I'll try to get a night shot of both of the flats, side by side, when I finish the Distillery. I actually made some progress on that one today and hope for more of the same tomorrow. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 12, 2025, 08:01:35 AMBob,
Wow, that turned out great. Love the step by step and the weathering is fantastic. Well done my friend.
Tom
Thank you, Tom! Another one of Doug's really neat little kits. It was a fun build and went together with no major issues. ;)
Quote from: Rick on March 12, 2025, 08:36:37 AMBob, that's a little jewel of a model.
Thanks for sharing all your SBS's.
Thanks, Rick! I enjoy sharing my builds even though they's nothing really unique about them. Just straight kit building the way the manufacturer intended. ;D
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on March 12, 2025, 08:51:01 AMGreat build,RB...thanks for the SBS
terry
Thanks, Terry! It's a pleasure to have you following along! :)
Quote from: deemery on March 12, 2025, 08:55:15 AMBob, how do you mark that white lamp cord so you get the DC polarity correct?
dave
Hi Dave! That's actually some speaker wire that came with the last surround sound system I bought. I mark the ends with a red and a black Sharpie to keep things straight. The wire also has a light gray strip and some lettering on one strand. I typically assign that to the Positive side. 8) Thanks for following along!
Quote from: nycjeff on March 12, 2025, 09:35:08 AMHello Bob, another great build.
Thanks, Jeff! Great to have you following along! ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 12, 2025, 09:39:30 AMThe soap company looks great. I'll have to try the paint/water putty technique. Thanks for that.
Jeff
Thanks Dr. Jeff! I also use the paint/water putty technique for stucco. I was doing the old water putty/water method for stucco followed by painting the stucco when it occurred to me try it the lazy way and simply mix the paint and water putty. The lazy man's method. ;D
Quote from: Jerry on March 12, 2025, 09:47:49 AMAnother wonderful build and great tutorial as usual.
Thanks for all the tips along the way!
Jerry
Thank you, Jerry! Pleasure to have you following along. More to come, one of these days, on the Distillery. ;)
Darn good work Bob, glad to see the tornados didn't bother y'all earlier in the week..... 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 13, 2025, 02:30:14 PMDarn good work Bob, glad to see the tornados didn't bother y'all earlier in the week..... 8)
Thanks, Greg! It did get a bit windy. :o
Okay, quick update. I'm working on the second of the two background structures so I'm going to skip posting pictures that would be repeats of steps taken on the first structure (for example weathering the walls, installing window shades, etc.) and just focus on the things that are different for this one.
There are two large signs that I should appear as being painted on the clapboard walls. Before I started working on these signs I did two things. I made a copy on my inkjet printer, and I scanned them as an image. The copy will be my backup in case I ruin the original. The scan will be a backup of my backup in case I screw up a second time. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115820-547611261.jpeg)
The first thing I did was apply a light A&I mix to the back of the signs. It'll soak through the paper and darken the front a little bit but not too much.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115820-547621351.jpeg)
After the A&I dried, I carefully cut out the signs using a sharp X-Acto blade and a steel ruler.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115821-547632245.jpeg)
I then carefully sanded the back of the signs to get the paper as thin as possible without going all the way through the paper. I worked from the center out and went somewhat slowly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115822-547641913.jpeg)
I took some Elmers White Glue and put a blob in a mixing cup (the end cap from a shipping tube).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115823-54765108.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
I then added some water to the Elmers White Glue and mixed it together to thin it out a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115931-54766658.jpeg)
Using a finger dipped in the thinned-out Elmers Glue I smeared it all over the back of the sign. I want the paper good and wet, which makes it more pliable and helps it conform to the clapboard wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115932-54767765.jpeg)
I then carefully positioned the sign in place on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115933-547681567.jpeg)
I ran a fingernail along each clapboard to get the sign to settle down into the wall. Had I not been lazy I would have found a piece of clear plastic to put over the sign. That would reduce the risk of a fingernail snagging and tearing the sign but, luckily, that didn't happen.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115934-547691455.jpeg)
I just realized I forgot to do something. At this point I should have used my ponce wheel to add the nail holes to the sign to help it appear painted on. Oh well, it's not going to be that noticeable.
To fade the signs a little bit, and help with the 'painted on' appearance, I used the dry sponge technique to apply some very light gray to the signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115934-547702471.jpeg)
So that brings us up to date with where I'm at right now. I still have work to do on the Distillery but here it is next to the Soap Company which is how I envision them at the back of my shelf layout out. The siding come in from the Soap Company side and end at the Distillery.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190325115955-54771611.jpeg)
Thanks for following along! More to come. Next up for the Distillery will be adding the roofs, loading docks, doors and lighting! 8)
Bob,
Fantastic job on both builds, they look great. I'm sure the roof on the distillery will really make it pop.
Love the way you weather the signs. I'll have to try the sponge technique.
Tom
Beautiful job on both builds Bob. You always do top-notch modeling and lightning.
Bob I like the way you did the sign. Another great tip.
Jerry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 19, 2025, 01:58:07 PMBeautiful job on both builds Bob. You always do top-notch modeling and lightning.
I'm in full agreement with Curt.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 19, 2025, 12:49:57 PMBob,
Fantastic job on both builds, they look great. I'm sure the roof on the distillery will really make it pop.
Love the way you weather the signs. I'll have to try the sponge technique.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! These are fun little builds. Little, but they're taking me longer than I expected. ::)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 19, 2025, 01:58:07 PMBeautiful job on both builds Bob. You always do top-notch modeling and lightning.
Thank you, Curt! I still curse Slim for getting me hooked on lighting. It adds so much to the model, but it also adds time to the build. :o
Quote from: Jerry on March 19, 2025, 11:54:11 PMBob I like the way you did the sign. Another great tip.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! One other method is to use 3M Transfer tape to adhere the sign to the wall, rather than thinned white glue. I just prefer the thinned white glue method unless it's a sign I produced on my ink jet printer and the water will make the ink run.
Quote from: Rick on March 20, 2025, 07:32:28 AMQuote from: PRR Modeler on March 19, 2025, 01:58:07 PMBeautiful job on both builds Bob. You always do top-notch modeling and lightning.
I'm in full agreement with Curt.
Thank you, Rick! I really appreciate having you following along.
Okay. I won't have these finished but the end of the contest, but I'll keep plugging away at them anyway. ;D
Quick update. There's a roof over the loading dock that is covered in corrugated panels. Before painting I cut the panels to the width/height using my NWSL Chopper. To paint them I opted to use Anita's Metallic Craft Paint. The first thing I did was to sponge on "Galvanized Tin".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310325104555-549031438.jpeg)
Then, I dabbed on another Anita's Metallic Craft paint, this time "Tin Roof Rust". This paint was way too thin to get a good coverage.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310325104555-549041558.jpeg)
I followed up with "Burnt Sienna" to get a little more rust on the panels. I didn't want them completely rusted. Just pretty far along. I'll add some rust-colored powders to the lower portion of the roof when the panels are in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310325104556-549052253.jpeg)
With the roof in place, I then installed some supports. Instead of simply cutting them to length, painting and gluing them in place I opted to drill hole in the roof and the walls and bend the end of the wires to fit in the holes. This makes them a little less likely to get dislodged if they get bumped and it also helps avoid the globs of glue necessary to hold them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310325104557-549061544.jpeg)
I'm still installing details. I need to add a chimney, another vent, some wrought iron trim around the upper roof, etc. I've also been looking through my stash for a box of cats I could swear I have. I want some cats on the loading dock. From what I've read cats are common around distilleries to help keep the rodent problem in check.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310325104558-549072226.jpeg)
After the final details have been put in place I'll work on the lighting for this one. Then I'll work on a base for the two of them!
Thanks for following along!
Bob,
Fantastic looking builds. I too curse Slim; however, I'm not as involved with the lighting.
This will be a fine looking distillery when lit, no that it isn't now.
Tom
The roof came out nice.
I like the overall choice of paint colors for the distillery. They show off the architecture without overwhelming the eye.
Mike
Another great Bob build, well done..... 8)
Excellent modeling Bob.
Bob, I always enjoy seeing what you're doing and the distillery is looking great.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 31, 2025, 11:39:54 AMBob,
Fantastic looking builds. I too curse Slim; however, I'm not as involved with the lighting.
This will be a fine looking distillery when lit, no that it isn't now.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! I'm liking the looks of this one. I'm hoping to position it somewhere behind Red Hook Wharf (someday). ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 05, 2025, 12:35:03 PMAnother great Bob build, well done..... 8)
Thanks, Greg! Much appreciated. :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 06, 2025, 08:15:31 AMExcellent modeling Bob.
Thank you for the kind words, Curt! 8)
Quote from: Rick on April 06, 2025, 08:39:59 AMBob, I always enjoy seeing what you're doing and the distillery is looking great.
Thank you, Rick! Glad to have you following along! ;D
Howdy Bob,
There is a lot to see on the distillery, and your coloring and overall craftsmanship display it well. Nice build.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Michael Hohn on April 05, 2025, 09:12:30 AMThe roof came out nice.
I like the overall choice of paint colors for the distillery. They show off the architecture without overwhelming the eye.
Mike
Thanks, Mike! I really appreciate the comments and having you following along. I like that Light Avocado color as a trim color against a white building. I used it before on another structure and was quite pleased with the results.
Quote from: friscomike on April 06, 2025, 09:29:00 AMHowdy Bob,
There is a lot to see on the distillery, and your coloring and overall craftsmanship display it well. Nice build.
Have fun,
mike
Thank you, Mike! It's been a fun little build. Well, maybe not little. Mid-sized might be more appropriate. Another outstanding kit from FOS.
Bob,
Wonderful job on the two structures. I think the distillery will look perfect behind the wharf.
Tom
Looks great Bob. I like the way you did the metal roofing.
Jerry
A great job!
Jim
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 06, 2025, 03:29:11 PMBob,
Wonderful job on the two structures. I think the distillery will look perfect behind the wharf.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! I hope so. I have to cut some plywood and homosote for the land-based structures of Red Hook and then craft some seawalls. Then I can start playing around with the arrangement of the structures. ;)
Quote from: Jerry on April 06, 2025, 07:11:11 PMLooks great Bob. I like the way you did the metal roofing.
Jerry
Thank you, Jerry! I'm always tinkering around with ways to get a somewhat realistic looking metal roof finish. Rust is fun. ;D
Quote from: Jim Donovan on April 12, 2025, 09:56:46 AMA great job!
Jim
Thanks, Jim! More to come as I finish up the lighting on the distillery. 8)
Congratulations Bob! Fantastic build! 8)
Hello Bob, for a couple of background flats your structures look fantastic. Nice job !
Quote from: Philip on April 25, 2025, 02:37:39 PMCongratulations Bob! Fantastic build! 8)
Thank you, Philip! :) Glad to have you checking in.
Quote from: nycjeff on April 25, 2025, 04:50:52 PMHello Bob, for a couple of background flats your structures look fantastic. Nice job !
Thanks, Jeff! I need to build some benchwork and do some track planning so I can make use of these! :o
Okay, here's an update on the lighting portion of the Distillery build.
I used a black photo mounting board I picked up at an art supply company and cut it into pieces to construct an interior of sorts. to that I attached copper tape to carry the current. To do so I had to peel the copper tape from the backing to expose the sticky side of the tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114849-55194892.jpeg)
What I'm starting with is a simple strip that can be thought of as the 'bus'. Two strips of copper tape. One to carry the positive side and one for the negative side. This piece will run vertically in the structure and supply power to each 'floor'.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114849-551961364.jpeg)
I use red and black sharpies to mark the tape, leads on the LED's and current limiters. Red = Positive and Black = Negative.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114850-551971629.jpeg)
Now for the difficult part. Making a goose neck lamp for the exterior. I have some teeny, tiny LED's that soldered leads to using very thin wire (the kind used to wrap around the armature of an electric motor). One wire is red and one it green. The insulation is painted on the wires. I had a batch of these already prepared from a prior build so i grabbed one, tested it to make sure it worked and the fed the two leads through a short length (3/4 to 1 inch) of .018 outside diameter steel tubing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114851-551981396.jpeg)
I pulled the wires through until the LED was near the tubing and then tested it again. Note, since the tubing is steel if the LED is butted up against the tubing it will short out. It needs to be close to the tubing but not against it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114852-55199824.jpeg)
Next, I took a Tichy lampshade that had been partially painted (primed and the reflective surface painted white) and fed the wires through it and then slipped it over the steel tubing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114949-55200963.jpeg)
More in a moment... 8)
Good idea marking the leads on the LEDs. I usually cut them when installing them in locos. I'm using that tip (not the first I've taken from you). Thanks. 8)
Nice builds on the structures as well.
Jeff
Now, the absolute most nerve-wracking part (for me). Forming the goose neck lamp shape. Bending steel tubing so it doesn't collapse and pinch the wires inside takes care. I use my 10x Optivisor and make a series of tiny bends moving the tubing as I go along. The best tool I found (so far) for this is a pair of needle nose pliers where both jaws are round.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114949-55201826.jpeg)
After all the bends are made, I pull the wires through the tubing (if possible) to snug the LED into the lampshade and test it again. The moment of truth, so to speak. If the wires got pinched in the tubing, they won't move, or they may have been broken.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114951-55203109.jpeg)
(No picture) At this point I apply a tiny drop of 5-minute epoxy to the end of the steel tube to keep the LED from pushing up against it and to secure the lampshade in place.
To prep all the Current Limiters, LED's, wires, and copper tape I apply liquid flux to the places where they'll be soldered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525114952-552041542.jpeg)
Then I add a little solder to them. This will make it easier to solder them in place later on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115051-552052480.jpeg)
The copper tape is on the top of the 'floor' so I drill holes through the tape and 'floor' where I want to mount the current limiters and LED's. Then I push the leads through the holes (being careful to orient them correctly, the current flows in one direction).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115052-55206530.jpeg)
Not a great picture but I'm bending the leads at a 90-degree angle with a needle nose plier.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115052-552072080.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Then I trim them off a bit with an old pair of rail nippers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115053-552081527.jpeg)
I then pull the current limiter or LED down to the bent leads are against the copper tape and solder them in place as quickly as possible. I don't want to overheat them, so I don't hold the tip of the soldering pencil there any longer then I have to.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115054-552091874.jpeg)
Next, an incredibly important step, especially for the current limiter. Take an X-Acto knife and remove the copper tape from between the leads. I forgot to do this, one time, for the current limiter and blew out each LED in the circuit (which happened to include two goose neck lamps :'( ).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115203-552101181.jpeg)
Here's the main bus being mounted to the board I cut out to be the back wall of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115204-552111148.jpeg)
Here's the nearly completed interior. The LED on the lower right isn't lit because I haven't soldered the leads for the goose neck lamp in place yet so that circuit is incomplete. Once I do that the interior will be tethered to the structure by those thin wires, so I saved that for last.
I originally build this with only an upper floor of lights but didn't like the effect. The third-floor windows were well lit, but the second-floor windows were not quite as well lit. I decided to add another floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115205-55212677.jpeg)
Now I've added the goose neck lamp to the circuit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115206-552132192.jpeg)
Here's the finished model. I didn't worry about the lighting the two windows on the extension on the front left nor the tiny windows on the cupolas. For the extension I just figure that's a storage room and the lights are off. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030525115245-552151304.jpeg)
That's it for this one. Hopefully I'll be able to post it in place on a layout one of these days!
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 04, 2025, 11:45:18 AMGood idea marking the leads on the LEDs. I usually cut them when installing them in locos. I'm using that tip (not the first I've taken from you). Thanks. 8)
Nice builds on the structures as well.
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff! Even with them clearly marked I still install one backwards on occasion. At least it makes it easier to figure out where I went wrong. ::)
Great work Bob, love the lighting..... 8)
Great job on the lighting as usual Bob.
Tom
Howdy Bob,
Your creative approach to the lighting looks fantastic. I agree about making goosenecks, they are my least favorite part of lighting. The distillery looks amazing with the lights in all the rooms.
Have fun,
mike
Bob, excellent how-to on lighting.
Thanks for sharing that.
Bob, great work ! This FOS kit is one of my favorites he released and it is not one my shelf yet. Can accept a gift of one for my birthday or xmas though...Tommy
Bob another great tutorial!
And a beautiful build.
Jerry
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 04, 2025, 02:12:45 PMGreat work Bob, love the lighting..... 8)
Thanks, Greg! This one was fun. Now I need to figure out CadRail and come up with a track plan that includes these two. :o
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 04, 2025, 04:54:14 PMGreat job on the lighting as usual Bob.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! It took more LED's than I expected but not near as many as Sokol's did. That one probably lights up the shed by itself. ;D
Quote from: friscomike on May 04, 2025, 05:45:56 PMHowdy Bob,
Your creative approach to the lighting looks fantastic. I agree about making goosenecks, they are my least favorite part of lighting. The distillery looks amazing with the lights in all the rooms.
Have fun,
mike
Thanks for the kind words, Mike! This one came out better than I had hoped. I'll take that. ;)
Quote from: Rick on May 04, 2025, 06:45:17 PMBob, excellent how-to on lighting.
Thanks for sharing that.
You're welcome and thanks, Rick! I enjoy the challenge of adding lighting even though it adds a few extra workbench sessions to the build process. :)
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 04, 2025, 09:49:16 PMBob, great work ! This FOS kit is one of my favorites he released and it is not one my shelf yet. Can accept a gift of one for my birthday or xmas though...Tommy
I hope you end up getting this one, Tommy! It's a fun build and will add an interesting industry to the layout. :D
Quote from: Jerry on May 05, 2025, 12:02:32 AMBob another great tutorial!
And a beautiful build.
Jerry
Thank you, Jerry! And thank you for following along! Much appreciated. :)
This past Saturday, Bob brought down this build for us to see. As in most builds, the forum photos just don't show how great this build is. I'm not saying his photos aren't good, it's the fact all builds look much better up close and personal. This is is fantastic.
This is a superior build of one of Doug's FOS kits.
Tom