First thank you Criag for adding the three gauges as I model in all three. I'll have to start a thread in the Layout Tour section on the layout I'm building and how the three gauges are part of the layout.
So first I'll show a set of HOn30 diesels I built as a tribute to a fallen member of the RR-L. That would be Bill Andersen (aka geezer). And I also scratch built a set of four HOn30 electric box cabs.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-103.jpg)
I'll start the thread off with these pictures of the six sets of power.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Electric%20Boxcab/elecboxcab90.JPG)
I was also into On30 at that time and built two On30 box cabs that Bill wound up owning.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer%20Locos/Geezer4.jpg)
Once I get my pictures transferred on my website server list I'll do another SBS thread on HOn30 "Critters".
Bernd
It's nice to see you constructing these here Bernd. Perhaps those interested in similar projects will be following you. Though I won't be modeling in any scale other than HO, I will be looking in from time to time to get some tips. I'll take a seat in the back. Maybe I can help with adult beverages & popcorn. Let the fun begin.
Rich
Those electric boxcabs are right up my alley. Err, siding, I mean.
Quote from: Pennman on January 11, 2025, 11:48:40 AMIt's nice to see you constructing these here Bernd. Perhaps those interested in similar projects will be following you. Though I won't be modeling in any scale other than HO, I will be looking in from time to time to get some tips. I'll take a seat in the back. Maybe I can help with adult beverages & popcorn. Let the fun begin.
Rich
Since Criag put up that section why not. It's been a since I built those.
Bernd
Quote from: Mr. Critter on January 11, 2025, 12:38:00 PMThose electric boxcabs are right up my alley. Err, siding, I mean.
I'll do an SBS after I do the diesels.
Bernd
I love those HOn30 boxcabs!!!
Quote from: cuse on January 11, 2025, 04:40:22 PMI love those HOn30 boxcabs!!!
Thanks Cuse. Once I get the Suydam engine house done I'll be doing the SBS on the diesels.
Bernd
Terminology question: Does SBS mean step-by-step?
A great, inaugural thread for this new section of the forum. Thanks for starting Bernd!
Quote from: Keep It Rusty on January 11, 2025, 05:33:46 PMA great, inaugural thread for this new section of the forum. Thanks for starting Bernd!
You're welcome Craig. I figured it would be well received. I would have loved to me Geezer in person. He was quite a character. I'll work on this thread after I get the Suydam engine house thread done.
Bernd
Bernd,
That is a great tribute to Bill, I was fortunate to meet him in person a couple of times and he was just a much a character in real life as he was on the forum.
Bernd,
Nice to put a face to the Geezer. Also, fantastic job on the boxcabs. They look right at home.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 11, 2025, 10:42:08 PMBernd,
That is a great tribute to Bill, I was fortunate to meet him in person a couple of times and he was just a much a character in real life as he was on the forum.
Ya he sure was. He wanted me to do some machining for him. It involved a tool that throws projectiles out of a tube. (I'm sure you know what I'm talking about). I explained to him why I couldn't do it.
He did like the On30 box cabs I had made. Makes me wonder what ever happened to them.
Bernd
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2025, 10:52:05 AMBernd,
Nice to put a face to the Geezer. Also, fantastic job on the boxcabs. They look right at home.
Tom
Both the box cabs are a freelance design. Thanks for the kind words.
Bernd
Starting the story behind the freelance HOn30 engines , here forth called "The Twins". Why? Because they are semi-permanently coupled. The idea for this came from a prototype engine that was built on an SD-40 truck called the TP-56.
The pictures show what it looks like. There is more info on the prototype build but it's more than what would apply to this build. The idea was that they used a truck from a road engine and created a switcher engine.
Here's more info on the engine here: https://www.tractivepowercorp.com/technology
And a video from nine years ago:
A drawing showing dimensions.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/tp-56%20drawing.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/tp-56%20drawingA.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/TP-56-1.jpg)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/TP-56-1.jpg)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/TP-56-2.jpg)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/TP-56-3.jpg)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/TP-56-4.jpg)
The 5601 number stands for 56,000lb tractive effort and the 01 stands for the first prototype engine.
The search was on for an "N" scale 6 axel engine. None of the 6 axels were usable due in part to the chassis construction. This got me to looking at an N scale DD40. These were the double diesel engines used by the Union Pacific. I purchased one from E-bay.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-1.JPG)
These had a much better chassis than the 6 axel ones. And two motors to boot.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-2.JPG)
First thing needed was a platform to build the shell on. I made two out of brass. Don't remember the thickness. Probably .020" or .040" thick
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-3.JPG)
Now with a platform made I moved on to what the shell would look like. I basically used what I've seen in drawings of boxcab's.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-4.JPG)
I used a CAD 2D program to draw up the sides. Printed them out and glued to cardboard sides to see if this is what I wanted.
Next up I converted the DXF files in my CAM program to generate a G-code for my Sherline CNC mill to cut out the sides.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-5.JPG)
Once eight pieces were cut out it as time, as Norm Abram used to say, for a little assembly
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-6.JPG)
The block of wood is a piece of MDF with perfect 90° corners.
I'll get into the assembly in the next post. There are over 100 pictures in this build, and I'm going to take it slow, there is much to this build.
Until the next post.
Bernd
Love the look of the prototypes...I'll be watching as a fellow HOn30 guy
I'm always looking for your latest posts to see what you are up to.
How about scheduling a visit for the CEO of the North Coast Railroad? We can haggle about an interchange and trackage rights over a cup of coffee and a bowl of Cheerios.
Bernd,
This will be a fun thread to follow. Great work for sure.
Tom
Quote from: cuse on February 07, 2025, 07:34:06 AMLove the look of the prototypes...I'll be watching as a fellow HOn30 guy
Hey Cuse,
Glad your along for the ride. I'll much more in the HOn30 department. The quarry line will occupy a space of about 8X24 feet with an transfer facility to standard gauge tracks.
Bernd
Quote from: Dave Buchholz on February 07, 2025, 08:52:58 AMI'm always looking for your latest posts to see what you are up to.
How about scheduling a visit for the CEO of the North Coast Railroad? We can haggle about an interchange and trackage rights over a cup of coffee and a bowl of Cheerios.
I'm up to about 5'6" right now. Oh you mean what I'm doing modeling wise. Right now, I'm chasing to many shiny objects. Just recently got a dozen ESC (electronic speed controllers) for my radio control method of controlling engines. I'm in the R&D stage right now.
Sorry but no Cheerios at this house. I'm staying away from sugary foods like that. My A1C1 doesn't like it.
We'll have to set up a day for visitation.
Bernd
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 07, 2025, 09:12:40 AMBernd,
This will be a fun thread to follow. Great work for sure.
Tom
Thank you, Tom. I've got lots to post.
Bernd
Ok, picking up from the last post.
Now comes the fun part. Soldering up the four sides and keeping them square. Here's how I did it.
You do that with fixtures. I made two fixtures. The one on the right is for soldering a back and side together. Then both of those parts are held together in the fixture on the left and soldered together. The blocks were milled out on my Bridgeport milling machines. Yes you can mill wood. The lighter colored block is rock maple and the darker one is MDF.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-8.JPG)
Using my home made resistance soldering iron I soldered the sides together at a perfect 90°.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-11.JPG)
The ends and sides have been soldered together.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-12.JPG)
Next those two piece are soldered together in the rock maple fixture.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-13.JPG)
The soldered shell.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-14.JPG)
Temporarily placed on the chassis to check fit.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-7.JPG)
Times two.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-10.JPG)
Next I figured out a way to fasten the shell to the chassis. I bent up some angle brackets. They were soldered on to the shell at the appropriate height when mounted to the floor.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-15.JPG)
Using 0-80 optical screws to secure the chassis and shell together.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-16.JPG)
A piece of styrene was added to the front to extend the chassis.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-17.JPG)
Two holes were located drilled and tapped 0-80. I always buy the longest screw I can get in the size I need. It's easier to shorten a screw than it is to lengthen it. At least I haven't found a way. (and perverts please keep your mind out of the gutter)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-18.JPG)
The green circle denotes the front end with the screw heads showing. The red circle denotes a "Z" bracket I made that holds the back end down secure. The screw holes not used is for the drawbar.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-19.JPG)
Next we'll get into making the roof.
Until the next time.
Bernd
Having an old brass Jonan Climax kit that's begging to be assembled, and having a resistance-soldering machine I've still yet to use, I'll be brazed to this thread.
Howdy Bernd, nice soldering tools and work. I'm looking forward to your build. Have fun, mike
Fabulous work Bernd!
Quote from: Mr. Critter on February 07, 2025, 05:24:24 PMHaving an old brass Jonan Climax kit that's begging to be assembled, and having a resistance-soldering machine I've still yet to use, I'll be brazed to this thread.
Thanks Mr. Critter. There's more to come, plus the four electrics I'll post about after this thread is done.
Bernd
Quote from: friscomike on February 07, 2025, 07:03:43 PMHowdy Bernd, nice soldering tools and work. I'm looking forward to your build. Have fun, mike
Thanks Mike. It's the little things like the tools that make for fun work. More to come as I told Critter.
Bernd
Ok, let's begin making the roof. I'm trying to remember exactly how I did this and get the pictures in the right order. I had to make two roofs and from looking at my pictures I must have done each roof separate and took pictures of each as I did them.
First a drawing was made and run through the procedure of making a G-code file for the machine. Cutting curves with a CNC is a breeze.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-20.JPG)
All cut. Now to saw through those little tabs to release them.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-21.JPG)
Next, I bult a rafter frame, at least that's what I'll call it for lack of a better explanation. I use two pieces of 1/8" square tubing.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-22.JPG)
Using my square assembly jig from the sides I assembled one side to make sure it'll be square.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-23.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-24.JPG)
Next I used a small metal square and assembled the two pieces on a piece of ceiling tile. I used pins to hold everything down for soldering.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-25.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelers/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-26.JPG)
I'll stop here for now. I'm trying to figure out what I did next with the pictures showing the roof construction. Something is out of place.
I'll carry on when I get it straightened out.
Bernd
;D ;D
Some serious accurate jigging goin on Bernd!
Quote from: Philip on February 12, 2025, 10:27:48 AMSome serious accurate jigging goin on Bernd!
It's the only way to make sure the model comes together square and everything fits properly. Something I learned in my job.
Bernd
Is there a trick to bending thicker brass, etc, at a precise right angle (without a bending brake tool?)
dave
Now, that is impressive. Thanks for doing this step by step, their is tons to be learned here.
Quote from: deemery on February 12, 2025, 10:49:26 AMIs there a trick to bending thicker brass, etc, at a precise right angle (without a bending brake tool?)
dave
Yes there is. Depending on the thickness of the brass either scribe a deep groove or saw cut about halfway through the brass. Flip back over so the cut is down. Then gently bend by hand over a sharp corner. Check with a square. Which way the bend goes depends on the thickness of the brass. If it's done with a saw cut you'll want the saw cut to the inside. If it's brass to maybe .015" thick and scribed keep the scribe facing out.
Go to my Suydam Engine house build where I bend a piece of brass to form an angle. About halfway down the page. Should give you the info of how to do that.
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6785.0 (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6785.0)
Bernd
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 12, 2025, 11:11:27 AMNow, that is impressive. Thanks for doing this step by step, their is tons to be learned here.
Thank you Ron. Glad it is of interest and helps with ideas.
I know a lot of you modelers work more often in wood. I enjoy working with metals as much as with wood and figured I show how easy it is to work with metals also. All it is, is a different type of material and different tools needed to work with it. The concept is the same, make parts and assemble them.
Bernd
Quote from: Bernd on February 13, 2025, 09:24:40 AMQuote from: deemery on February 12, 2025, 10:49:26 AMIs there a trick to bending thicker brass, etc, at a precise right angle (without a bending brake tool?)
dave
Yes there is. Depending on the thickness of the brass either scribe a deep groove or saw cut about halfway through the brass. Flip back over so the cut is down. Then gently bend by hand over a sharp corner. Check with a square. Which way the bend goes depends on the thickness of the brass. If it's done with a saw cut you'll want the saw cut to the inside. If it's brass to maybe .015" thick and scribed keep the scribe facing out.
Go to my Suydam Engine house build where I bend a piece of brass to form an angle. About halfway down the page. Should give you the info of how to do that.
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6785.0 (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6785.0)
Bernd
So part of the secret is nice tight vise jaws :-) Thanks!
dave
Yes, that's one method. The vise is a machinist vice with smooth jaws. A second method is to clamp the piece you want to bend between two pieces of steel with clamps and a sharp straight edge.
Bernd
Continuing on with the roof build.
I removed the two pieces of square tubing. I think if didn't work out somehow.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-27.JPG)
I bent the rood sides down to hide the roof/body joint line.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-28.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-29.JPG)
On the RRL forum a member eluded that I should elaborate on my how-to's, on what steps it takes, and techniques to take while soldering the parts together. So, with some intensive pictures count I will do that. This exercise will be the making of the roof for the second engine. I added a third rib to help hold the roof in the proper curvature. Using a jig plate with 1/4-20 holes to hold the rib down for soldering. The stir sticks insulate the brass from the aluminum plate and keeps the aluminum plate from sucking the heat from the brass.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-30.JPG)
Adding a bit of flux to the bottom of the rib.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-31.JPG)
Cutting up some short pieces of solder. I use 1/16" dia. 60/40.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-32.JPG)
Clamped the rib to the tubing and added one piece of solder.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-33.JPG)
Applying heat. (using my home-made resistance soldering tweezers)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-34.JPG)
And we have a soldered joint.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-35.JPG)
With the first side held solidly with solder, I soldered the other side.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-36.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-37.JPG)
And a test fit.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-38.JPG)
I drew the roof in my CAD program and printed it out. The paper print was glued to a piece of .010" thick brass sheet using spray adhesive. Yes, I did make new roofs for both. This is where I was confused as to the pictures I had taken. I changed the roof line on the back and front of the roof.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-39.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-40.JPG)
After cutting along the lines carefully with a pair of Fiskars scissors a file was use to trim to the line.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-41.JPG)
Next a piece of pipe was used to start the curved roof. Anything will do that is smaller in diameter than the finished roof curve. The pipe was used to start the bend. It gave a gentle curve to the roof, but I needed more
curvature.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-42.JPG)
Next, I used a pill bottle for more curvature.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-43.JPG)
A quick calibrated eyeball look said it was close.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-44.JPG)
A test fit on the roof ribs showed I had just what I wanted. A bit of a tighter curvature than the roof ribs. When pressed down in the center the roof conforms to the curvature of the ribs as will be seen in later pictures.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-45.JPG)
I started with the center rib to solder the roof on. A bit of flux. Same procedure as when I soldered the middle rib on. I scribed some lines near the end of the roof to help center the roof front to back.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-46.JPG)
Squeezed hard with the tweezers to seat the middle of the roof and applied heat.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-47.JPG)
Then it's the ends of the roof. I always start at the middle so the tubing won't unsolder from the roof ribs. If they do, nothing will move.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-48.JPG)
You can barely see the end tips getting a dull red from heat.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-49.JPG)
Foot off the pedal and let it cool while squeezing the tweezers.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-50.JPG)
Next the roof gets placed on the shell and the first bend is made to curve the roof down. The chassis has been removed so it doesn't get damaged. It takes quite a bit of pressure to start the bend. The shell flew out of me hands a couple of times.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-53.JPG)
A quick check shows that it's starting bend down. Not to detectable in the first picture.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-52.JPG)
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-51.JPG)
Next I worked the bend with a piece of dowel stock until I was satisfied with the radius of the bend.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-54.JPG)
The left side of the roof overhang is a bit longer than the right. A simple file job will take care of that till the sides are even.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-55.JPG)
And the end result, two boxcabs.
(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/RLF/HOn30/Geezer%20Tribute/Geezer-56.JPG)
That'll do it for now. Next some details will be added.
Bernd