Howdy folks,
The purpose of this topic is to chronicle the construction of the On30 Buffalo Canyon Mining Company layout and its structures. I will update the location of various structures and equipment posts here as I begin them.
These links may help readers to skip parts they are not interested in. I am old and slow, but I hope you enjoy the trip. The chronicle includes the following areas. It will take a while to populate the topics.
On30 Buffalo Canyon Mining Company layout and its structures
- Background - Buffalo Canyon Mining Company (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=178783)
- Depot - Forks Creek Depot AKA Quitaque depot (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=178821)
- Firehouse - Rich White's Engine house AKA Quitaque fire department (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=178921)
- Fire Truck - Wisemans Model T Fire truck (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=178960)
- Bell Tower - Scratchbuilt Fire Department bell tower (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=178946)
- Palitti Tannery - Morgan Hill Models Stone Factory (Palitti Tannery) (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179079)
- Morris Mining Co. - Little Creek Mining Co. by Banta Model Works (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179089)
- Homer's Place Saloon - 3 Brothers by Rich White (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179146)
- Cowles General Store - Kitbashed (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179238)
- Parish Livery and Drayage - Scratchbuilt freelance design (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179256)
- Nowlin's Gas Station - Thomas A Yorke gas station kit (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179277)
- Maintenance shed (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=180707)
- Bridge abutments and 86' Wooden Howe Truss Bridge by Hunterline (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=185113)
- Water Tank - scratchbuil (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=186718)t
- Scenery - Sculptamold and plaster cloth (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=189568)
- Masonic Lodge - IOOF Hall by Rich White (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=190345)
Buffalo Canyon Railroad Locos and Equipment (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179329)
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Background
The Buffalo Canyon Mining Company (BCMC) passes through the small town of Quitaque (pronounced kitty-kway), Texas, the center of the railroad. The town lies directly south of Capcrock Canyon State Park and is a ranching, and farming area in West Texas. Quitaque is home to the Texas bison heard, thus the name for the railroad. The Fort Worth and Denver South Plains Railroad Company originally built the line along with the Clarity tunnel, one of only three tunnels in Texas. Thus the facts end and the story of the BCMC begins.
The track that runs through Quitaque was laid in the 1870's and connected the Fort Worth and Denver Railroad (FWD) and the Quanah Acme and Pacific Railroad (QA&P/Frisco). The track was laid as narrow gauge because of the lower cost of construction and popularity in the 1870s. Since the FW&D and QA&P railroads were standard gauge, transfer tracks were laid on the FW&D in Turkey (home of Bob Wills, King of Western Swing) in the north and on the QA&P in Floydada in the south. The original railroad was abandoned after the first gold rush played out in the 1880's. Gold was rediscovered around 1892 and the need to ship the ore and gold necessitated the refurbishment of the railroad.
The Carl Anderson Development Corporation purchased the remnants of the railroad including track, facilities, and equipment to serve the resuscitated mining business of the region. Carl Anderson, being a tight-fisted developer with short arms and deep pockets, purchased used and cast-off equipment from the Colorado and Southern Railroad in the Rockies and from a few others around the region. It was cheap to ship the equipment down from Colorado to Quitaque via the Fort Worth and Denver Railroad which Carl liked.
Most of the fledgling railroad's equipment was nearing the end of its useful life, but enterprising railroad crews kept the equipment running and looking good, in some cases. Small locomotives and rolling stock suited the winding track in the canyon and beyond. During the good times, there were passenger and freight trains headed north and south at least three trips a week, so there was a train in Quitaque every day but Sunday.
The town of Quitaque had its glory days during the first gold strike, but the hard times of 1880-1895 left many of the buildings in poor condition. The once beautiful brick buildings were patched with adobe and most new construction was from wood and local limestone. Coal from Thurber, Texas heated Quitaque mining structures, homes, and businesses in the merciless panhandle winters. Oil was becoming the new gold in Texas, so shipping crude oil was becoming a good business for the railroad. The railroad won the mail contract which added more revenue to the company.
~~~~~~~~~~~
That should give you a little background of the BCMC and how it got its start. A description of the layout will follow in subsequent posts.
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
looking forward to following along. Thanks for the history lesson on the railroad.
Howdy folks,
Here's information about the layout:
General Information
Name: Buffalo Canyon Mining Company
Scale: On30
Size: 15' X 13'
Prototype: None - layout is freelanced
Locale: Quitaque Texas (west Texas panhandle area)
Era: 1920's
Layout Type: Walkaround
Layout Height: 40″
Benchwork: 3 modules and boxed frame extensions with 2″ rigid foam
Roadbed: foam
Trackwork: Microengineering On30 plus hand laid
Turnouts: Microengineering No 5 plus hand laid
Minimum Curve Radius: 22″
Scenery: Rigid foam covered with latex paint and ground foam
Control: Digitrax DCC
The layout is to be built in three phases. Phase I is the town located in the center, Phase II is the return loops, and Phase III is the staging yard on the back side of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050525115738.jpeg)
Well, that's the plan for now, but as we know, no plan survives first contact...
Have fun,
mike
Glad you started this back p over here Mike.
Jerry
Interesting track plan Mike. Is it one out of MRR magizine? It looks familiar.
Howdy Curt, the basic plan is from Dave Meek. I added the returns and staging area. Have fun, mike
Dave, thanks for starting this thread here so we can continue following along as you progress.
Howdy folks,
The first structure build is the Forks Creek station from Classic Miniatures. Joe Batson started the kit for Choctaw Lumber Company but decided it wasn't what he wanted for a logging layout. He had painted the structure green, which is the color I plan to use on the BCMC layout, so that saved me a step.
Here is the box and first glue-up:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_36_15_2.jpeg)
The roof is not attached yet, but in place to test fit. I'll add roofing material and the chimney next. The kit comes with a corrugated iron roof, but I'd like to use a standing seam roof...if I can find it. So many boxes...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_35_48_2.jpeg)
I made ten rafters for the roof using the laser. I may paint them white since there will not be a ceiling proper...
The room partition is from densely corrugated cardboard. The partition received the same wallpaper as the rest of the room. The second-floor door is a Tichy product. The photo shows the partition in place to test fit before glue makes them permanent. I also painted the paper corrugated roofing material provided in the kit. I searched high and low for standing seam roofing material and discovered my stock is in HO scale.
Here are a couple of shots showing the second floor in draft condition plus a roof rafter in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_34_49_2.jpeg)
Second-floor partition and rafter test fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_35_21_2.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike, looks good to me.
Is this an old build?
I'm getting forgetful and don't remember seeing this before.
Howdy folks,
The Quitaque depot work continues.
Here are a few photos of the roof and rafters. While the edges darkened with the Old Oak Minwax, they are in the same family as the roof.
Here is a color test with the rafter. Half of the roof underside is yet to be finished. I used 3M transfer tape to attach the underside.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_34_16_2.jpeg)
Here is the underside of the roof. The seam is where the room partition will go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_33_24_2.jpeg)
Finished the roof except for the ridge cap. The roofing is paper corrugated from Classic Miniatures. It was my first time using the material and it was not bad.
One side is finished and another prepped with 3M transfer tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_30_01_25_11_31_27_2.jpeg)
That's it for now.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Rick on January 31, 2025, 08:42:23 AMMike, looks good to me.
Is this an old build?
I'm getting forgetful and don't remember seeing this before.
Howdy Rick,
Indeed it is part of the old build. I'm trying to recreate the whole Buffalo Canyon Mining Company story here in the Modelers Forum. I like the chronicle approach, so away we go.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Here are the final photos of the Quitaque depot. I'll finish the details when it is planted on the layout.
Interior view
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-300125234014.jpeg)
Here is a final photo of the depot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586_31_01_25_9_09_25_2.jpeg)
That's it for the Quitaque Depot. Next up will be the Quitaque firehouse.
Have fun,
mike
I thought this might be an old build.
Final results look excellent!
Mike the build looks great. To me it screams back woods.
Mike thanks for moving your layout over here; I'll be following along.
The Depot looks very well done; great job and have fun.
The laser rafters are nice as the building !
8)
I just love that warm, unpainted board interior, especially the underside of the roof. Looks just like the oil-finished interior woodwork that I've favored for years. I'd be happy to wait for a train in that gorgeous little pile of sticks.
The outdoor benches, finished bright, echoing what's inside, are a fine touch.
Mike,
Thanks for continuing your modeling here on the forum.
I love the look and natural feel of the interior and exterior on the depot. Fantastic Mike, carry on.
Tom
Howdy folks,
Rick, Curt, Larry, Philip, Tom, and Mr. Critter thank you for your comments. I do appreciate them.
The next build in the thread is the Quitaque Fire House, a 4" X 6.5" structure adapted from Rich White's critter enginhouse.
Rich White's Engine house
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225085502.jpeg)
Rich White's castings come with no instructions or parts, just castings. This approach allows for a lot of fun in the build. Here are the bare castings:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125113806-536612100.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125113806-53664233.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125113806-536651516.jpeg)
I sprayed the castings with white primer, then used acrylics to color them.
Here is a photo from the Internet that I used as a coloring guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225092453-53688429.jpeg)
Finished exterior
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125113806-53666221.jpeg)
Finished interior
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125113807-536672319.jpeg)
That's it for now. More build details will follow.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The Quitaque fire station build continues with close ups of the exterior walls and floor.
This wall has a chair, telephone, workbench and ladder attached to the casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114015-536681955.jpeg)
The opposite wall has a ladder and a collection of chemical fire extinguishers common during the era.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114015-536691261.jpeg)
The floor is basswood playwood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114015-53670621.jpeg)
That's it for now.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I am thrilled with the results of my 3D resin printer (Mars 3). Here is a sample of details parts that might be hard to find and cost a fortune to ship: a bell for the tower on the Fire Station, an early 1900s chemical fire extinguisher, and a wall-mount crank telephone. For reference, the telephone is 18" tall in 1:1.
3D Prints
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225093653.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Work on the fire station continues with assembly of the walls, roof, and floor.
The completed interior with fire truck
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225092452-53686193.jpeg)
I ordered windows and doors from Grandtline, but misplaced them in a move from Texas to Georgia. I decided to design and cut them with the laser. That was my first window and door adventure on the laser. The doors are made of six laminated parts, plus the glazing. I am happy with the laser scoring function that left a nice deep mark on the diagonal boards in the door. The windows are made up of five layers plus glazing. I am happy the laser could cut those mullions. They are fine. I made the doors and windows in the manner of Dave Meek from .025 laser/resin board. He has a terrific video that makes the process look simple. Duh, if I could do it, most folks could after watching the video. I learned a lot about designing the doors in CAD and am glad to have that under my belt.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114015-536711223.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225102248.jpeg)
Roofing material was 400 grit sandpaper cut into to strips and colored with pigments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114130-536741878.jpeg)
That's it for now. Next up will be the bell tower.
Have fun,
mike
Wow Mike you've been busy. Everything looks great. Did you just build this or is it an older build you did?
Howdy folks,
Today's activities mostly focused on the bell tower, specifically the bell support. The bell support will be enclosed in a slant roof structure with a rolled asphalt roof. It will be simple. I still need to add interior supports for the extra weight, pillow block caps, counterweight, bell pull rope and a little more weathering. The bell and spindle wheel were 3D printed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114015-536722491.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114129-536731813.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225104120.jpeg)
That does it for the bell tower. Next up, finish the windows and doors.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 01, 2025, 10:46:52 AMWow Mike you've been busy. Everything looks great. Did you just build this or is it an older build you did?
Howdy Curt,
All the postings in this thread to date are past builds from the old RRL On30 topic. I plan to add all the structures, backgrounds and interesting stuff to this thread.
I've completed Nowlin's Gas mostly with a little weathering of the dirt and a few weeds left to add. I'll post those photos when I finish adding the rest of the old builds.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
This closes (for now) the chronicle of the Quitaque Fire Station. I still need to make a sign but I haven't decided what to say. I especially like the Rich White castings and his leaving the construction and other parts to the builder.
In summary, the challenges for me were the doors and windows. I purchased them before my move to Georgia, but I could not for the life of me find them. I decided to make my own on the laser and was pleased with the outcome. I learned how from Dave Meek's videos at Thunder Mesa Studio. It is relatively easy.
Making the interior and bell tower parts on the 3D printer was a lot of fun, too. It took a while to get the hang of scaling, but I succeeded in the end. The 3D details were the chemical fire extinguishers, table, chairs, telephone, potbelly stove, and bell plus its parts. The interior ladders were from Rslaserkits and are very nice. I'm sure I'll add more details outside the station when it is planted on the layout.
Here is a 360 view of the station.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114130-536762346.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114130-5367527.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114130-536771385.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310125114300-536791865.jpeg)
That's a wrap, but what is next?
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
This post depicts the build of the fire truck. I was traveling when I started the build, but brought the firetruck with me to remove flash and part lines. The kit is the Wiseman O scale Model T fire truck. It is a nice kit with loads of detail. There wasn't much flash to remove so I mostly filed the parts. I had to spend about an hour filing the fire equipment frame to get it to fit the chassis, otherwise no problems. I recommend this kit.
The obligatory kit packaging.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225111358-536962259.jpeg)
Here is a photo of all the parts and the parts after filing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225111352-536931896.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225111405-536972005.jpeg)
Primed and ready for assembly
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225111409-536981444.jpeg)
Painted and assembled
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225112317.jpeg)
Waiting for a fire
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225111415-53699542.jpeg)
That's it for the fire truck. Next up is the Palitti Tannery build.
Have fun,
mike
Mike obviously it's going to take you some time to get your thread caught
up to date. Take your time and we'll enjoy the review.
Mike, very nice job on the fire truck.
I have built a couple of them from Wiseman Model Services, they are great kits and would recommend them also.
Howdy folks,
Thanks Larry and Ron.
I just received four Inter-Action Enterprises Model T panel truck kits and can't wait to start one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225131115.jpeg)
The fire truck needs company.
Have fun,
mike
The bell tower and fire engine look terrific Mike.
Nice work Mike.
Mike, thanks for sharing all your fabulous modeling with us.
A great job on all of it.
Howdy there Mike,
Looking forward to your build thread. Its tough to start over. I did it when this forum closed two years ago and I started over on RR Lines.
When Jim Donavan revived this forum and took over from Jimmy D. I was stuck between the two. I'm sad that the RR Lines is over but I'm happy in that having only one forum will save me a lot of double posting as well as a whole lot of time.
Tom
Excellent work Mike, I'll be watching..... 8)
Howdy folks,
Thank you Curt, Philip, Rick, Tom, and Gregory. Your comments and critiques are welcome.
I too started here years ago and moved to RRL with the first outage. I had to refresh my memory about how to add photos, but so far it is a clear track ahead. I find the gallery easy to us and like the ability to add subcategories. My goal is to add at least one build a day until I am caught up with the current build.
Hats off to Jim and the admins for hosting a fun place to hang out.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The next structure in chronicle is Palitti Tannery.
The next structure build was Morgan Hill Models stone factory kit. Surprisingly, it looks just like a Thomas A. York kit. Several famous modelers have created beautiful dioramas with the structure. This was my take, perhaps borrowing a few ideas from the masters.
Morgan Hill Models pilot structure
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225115632-537151637.jpeg)
This build was a tribute to a couple of fantastic modelers and wonderful people, Lorrie and Leo Palitti. Sadly, Leo caught the Special several years back, but his modeling remains and inspires us all. Lorrie is a modeler in her own right and maintains their fabulous layout. One of the kits the Palitti couple built was FSM's Tannery. It was a big inspiration to all who saw it on the Texas Western Model Railroad Club's layout. So, this MHM kit was dedicated to the Palitti's and called Palitti Tannery. Of course, there is a backstory about the Tannery...
Backstory
The old stone and wood building is located between a spur of the Fort Worth and Denver South Plains Railroad and at the end of the primary Quitaque street appropriately named Main Street. The building was originally built in 1870 by Terry Morris as a railroad supply and light manufacturing company. Business boomed at first while the Clarity tunnel was being built and Mr. Morris was so busy that he never got around to painting the building's wood. Over time the wood greyed a bit but mostly took on the rusty brown and yellow colors of raw wood found out west.
After the gold played out, the hard times of the 1880s eventually forced Mr. Morris and his business partner Stephen Paroisse to declare bankruptcy and move back to Dallas. The building remained vacant for the following 30 years. Heavy timbers and a concrete floor probably contributed to the excellent structural stability of the aging building. These features would attract the attention of a future buyer.
Lorrie May and Leonis Palitti owned a catalog business in Fort Worth selling novelties and cooking utensils. Leo heard how large tanneries were shutting down everywhere although there was still a demand for leather and fur coats. He discussed establishing a smaller tannery with Lorrie May and they decided to make a go of it. With the decision made, the Palittis started looking for a place to set up the tannery.
Fort Worth was growing too crowded for them, so they explored Texas west of Fort Worth. The business would need a good supply of water, chemicals, hides, pelts, and access to the railroad to get supplies and sell their products up north. News of an old but sturdy building in Quitaque caught their attention. The building was located in town, near a river, and next to a railroad spur. The Palittis immediately headed west to Quitaque. Briscoe County owned the vacant building and after fierce negotiations sold it to the Palittis for $30 dollars.
As the story continued, Lorri May traveled to Kansas City to learn the tannery trade. Leonis started to repair their old building and construct the large vats they would need for the business.
Well, that's the origin of the Palitti Tannery. I only hope I can do it justice in tribute to these fine modelers.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The stone factory is now Palitti's Tannery. The wood walls are an experiment in Western raw wood coloring. When I visited New Mexico and Colorado, there were quite a few mines and outbuildings that were ochre-steaked black and brown. I tried for that look with pigments and alcohol. In the process, I managed to spill black soot pigment on the floor. It took an hour to clean up and so it goes.
Here are a few shots with the stone walls placed in position.
Front wall (lower door surround is not finished.)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225115413-53703975.jpeg)
Back wall
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225115417-537041459.jpeg)
I left the wood colored like that for a while and made adjustments and changes later.
Next I worked on the three big doors and the roof. Putting shingles on a roof is tedious, so I only got one half done before my back gave out...
Here are a couple of photos of the work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225115421-537051715.jpeg)
The roof is covered in cedar shingles from Rail-Scale-Models. I've used them before and really like them. The quality is top-notch. I'll finish the roof with grey and black stains, trying to let the wood grain show through.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225092237.jpeg)
That's it for now.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I finished assembling the tannery walls, windows, and doors. The roof is finished, but I haven't decided how to color it, whether old or new. The ends of the roof will get flashing.
I tried a new technique for window glazing (observed on a Dave Meeks video). I applied 360 canopy glue diagonally across the windows. The window passes light, looks realistic, and obscures the interior. The result was satisfying to me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225094517.jpeg)
I didn't add the final details to the tannery waiting for it to be situated on the layout. So far, I have planned sheds, water and chemical tanks, a boiler, and a porch.
Here are some photos of the current state of the tannery.
Front
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225115606-537081846.jpeg)
Back
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225095209.jpeg)
End
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010225115616-537111852.jpeg)
Well folks, that's finishes the Palitti Tannery for now. Morris Mining Co. - Little Creek Mining Co. by Banta Model Works is next.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Little Creek Mining Co. by Bill Banta is the next build for the layout.
This is a nice kit with plenty of templates and jigs for all the structural parts. The kit is mostly laser cut and individual strip wood.
If I followed the plans, the mine would be 16" long and the ore bins would face the wrong way for the ore cars on the siding. I'll do a bit of modification to turn the ore bins and put a wye in the buggy dump track. More about that later.
The original plan was for the mine will be situated on top of a stone tower in the center-right of the layout. Access is difficult because the original access route was blasted away to make room for the New Main Street. The city planners didn't want the mine in the middle of their new downtown anyway, so complaints from the furious miners fell on deaf ears.
Box
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225100956-53883963.jpeg)
Here is a view of all the parts in the kit
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225101002-538891227.jpeg)
Winch house frame
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225101009-538901751.jpeg)
The individual board siding was stained and is now drying. I'll fill in the mine's back story in a subsequent post.
Have fun,
mike
Hoo ah! Seems proper...sort of! 8)
Howdy folks,
I finished the main ore bin structure. For the next few days, I'll be at the computer designing rack and pinion gate mechanisms for the ore gates. I prefer something other than the simple cable and wood gates in the kit. Hope the 3D-printed versions come out okay. This is a really small mine, so nothing too fancy would have been used.
Once again I say hats off to Bill Banta for designing the terrific jigs to speed assembly of the model. They sure help make a nice square product.
The small boiler I ordered from Wiseman Models arrived today. It is perfect in size and what I envisioned for the mill house. The winch and single-cylinder engine, also from Wiseman, also loom in the shadows. Lots of detail work ahead should keep me out of the bars.
Here are a few photos of the mine structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225104431-539051908.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225104013-5390252.jpeg)
The mine is finished for now. I'll add details when I plant it on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225103442-539012476.jpeg)
So far the plan is for a steam winch and boiler. Both are on my desk for assembly.
On another note, I've decided on the next structure build, Homer's Place an old-fashioned saloon.
Have fun,
mike
Those are 2 very nice kits that you have done a wonderful job on Mike.
Howdy folks,
The next build was Homer's Place Saloon. While I was in school, I worked at a bar and grill in Lawton Oklahoma called Homer's Place. Hence the name of this build, in memory of the fun times I had there. The model is Rich White's 3 Brothers structure.
Backstory
The Homer's Place proprietor Conrad Graikowski, began business in a tent when the railroad was originally built in 1870. Later, Homer's was converted to an all-wood structure. Business had been good, so when a diner went bankrupt on Main Street, Mr. Graikowski purchased the old diner and relocated the saloon there. He kept the original saloon's name, Homer's Place. Homer's only served beer, tequila, chili, and cornbread so it was indeed a bar and grill.
Homer's is 6 1/2" wide by 5 1/4" deep and constructed of plaster, wood, and plastic. I began the construction by priming the castings with white primer. Next, I colored the stones and lightly washed the stucco with a light tan.
Plans
Signage: I am still deciding on the signage, and am on the fence about signs on boards or signs painted directly on the walls. The main sign will say Homer's Place and SALOON, and the three vertical walls on the sides of the doors will say BEER, CHILI, and TEQUILA.
Front: In the front, I'll block one of the doors with a bench, add a spittoon, and an exterior light. Common for the period would be a canvas awning, but I am not sure I want to block the fancy brickwork over the doors.
Back: In the back, I'll make a small dock with relevant clutter like empty beer barrels, sacks of beans (yes, I know Texas chili has no beans, but the sacks will look cool), and a delivery truck. I ordered a panel model T from Interaction Hobbies which should be interesting to build.
Top: The plan is for one smoke stack for the potbelly stove routed out the top of a side window and a bigger chimney on the roof for the cooking stove. I plan to cover the roof using a brown shade of rolled roofing similar to the one I used on the Sheepscot Gulf Sand and Gravel. There I used green chalk on flat black sprayed 600 grit sandpaper.
Raw castings after primer
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134539-539452231.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134539-539461753.jpeg)
Painted castings
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134640-539481198.jpeg)
Next I finished the interior of the walls with wainscot and added a divider between the bar and kitchen.
Bar side
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134229-539351996.jpeg)
Kitchen side
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134233-53936173.jpeg)
This photo shows the divider wall
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134411-53938415.jpeg)
That's it for now. Next will be the lighting and wiring.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
There are four lights in Homers, front and back porch and kitchen and bar. The light in the front is a gooseneck and the interior lights hang from a ceiling beam. The wiring was routed down the back wall and hidden with a kitchen cabinet.
The gooseneck support tubes are stainless and to scale. After I annealed the tubes, I inserted the magnet wires that led to the LED. Next, I bent them. I've only done this in HO, so hoped the O-scale version would be easier. The LEDs were housed in an 18" reflector, common for the era. I have selected pico warm white from Ngineering. I may paint them with orange clear paint if they are too white.
Gooseneck light in test stand.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134418-539391900.jpeg)
Ceiling beam hiding the light wiring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134225-53934904.jpeg)
Kitchen cabinet for hiding the wiring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134423-53941133.jpeg)
Back door light
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134249-53937989.jpeg)
Front light
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134104-53930221.jpeg)
The roof and signs are next.
Have fun,
mike
Nice shades Mike! 8)
Great looking catina Mike. The lighting takes it to another level.
Howdy folks,
The roof is cardstock covered in 600 grit strips cut into prototype width and colored with brown pigments.
Roof
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134219-53933155.jpeg)
Next I made the front and back sidewalks using strip wood and coffee stir sticks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134105-539311928.jpeg)
Front sidewalk
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225145201.jpeg)
That's it for now. Next up are the signs.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Signs were printed with an inkjet printer on card stock. That was the easy part. The design, however, ...
I used Affinity Designer, a British app, to design the signs. It is similar to Adobe Illustrator but easier to use and way cheaper for me. I especially like it because it creates vector graphics that can be resized without a loss in quality. Each sign had three designs, one for the sign to be printed, one for the sign backing, and one for the frame.
Here is a photo of Homer's sign frames and backing boards cut from a .023" laserboard placed next to the printed sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134057-539281257.jpeg)
Main sign
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134538-53943708.jpeg)
Thanks to several forum members for coaching and ideas for the sign's colors, typeface, and design.
The final saloon:
Front
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225134538-539441053.jpeg)
Side
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225151400-53951544.jpeg)
That's it for Homer's Place. Next up is Cowles General Store.
Have fun,
mike
Mike you certainly did a fantastic job on this build! The lighting
really make it POP.
This thread is a nice trip down memory lane.
Nice work Mike.
Love seeing this all over again like Rick said a nice trip down memory lane.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Many thanks Larry, Rick, Larry, and Jerry for your comments. It was fun posting the thread here. I left out the broken rail and blown valves along the way.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
This post officially begins the Cowles General Store build thread. The structure is small at 4.5″W x 3.5″H x 5" D.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225111543.jpeg)
I'll begin with the backstory.
Backstory
The Cowles family were Sooners living in the Big Pasture area. The family lived from agricultural and merchant activities including fruit trees and cotton. Darrell, one of the family's sons, grew up with a hoe in his hand helping his Dad. When he came of age, he said enough of this farm work and headed to the city.
In Fort Worth, Darrell quickly rose through the ranks of an advertising company where he used his natural drawing skills to design advertisements. He saved his money. One day in the local soda shop, a petite blonde named Linda Bell caught his eye. After a few years, they married. Linda Bell came from a long line of merchants and convinced Darrell to change careers and enter merchandising.
The new gold rush west of Fort Worth near the Quitaque created a demand for trading post. The gold meant plenty of customers for a general store. Darrell heard the call, "Go West young man" and the couple soon found an old vacant adobe building on Main Street to start a General Store. The price was right so they packed up and headed to Quitaque. Linda Bell knew the business and set up most of her suppliers before she left Fort Worth.
The business was a start-up success in 1893 and continues in the black today (1920). Now you know how the Cowles arrived in Quitaque and who started Cowles General Store.
Build
There isn't much to assemble the kit. Most of the work will go into the finish. Here is the obligatory kit component photo:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225195823-53953132.jpeg)
The walls are made from MDF about 1/4" thick. The doors and windows are from laserboard. As provided, the kit isn't but a few inches deep. I wanted it a bit deeper to fit on Main Street on the lower level beside the river. To expand the structure, I cut extensions for each side using the laser. The walls will be covered in plaster, so the joints shouldn't show.
Here is a view of a side wall with the laser extension plug I designed in Affinity Designer. It is made from 1/4" basswood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225195839-539562262.jpeg)
I joined the two walls and had a deeper building.
I glued the structure together, clamped it, and then let it dry overnight. I filled the gaps with foam putty which didn't work well. I didn't have any wood putty on hand. After it dried, I sanded it, then rounded all the corners in preparation for the stucco.
The structure is small at 4.5″W x 3.5″H x 5" D, so it shouldn't take too long to complete it, (LOL).
Here is a photo of the structure, fresh out of the clamps.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225195840-5395758.jpeg)
That's it for now. TBD.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The structure was glued together and made ready for stucco. I used a thick gesso stippled on with an acid brush for the stucco affect.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225200514-539632033.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225200532-53966986.jpeg)
The result was a convincing stucco finish. Cowles is painted in a color I mixed using online photos as a guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225201656.jpeg)
The timbers for the roof supports and the lintels were cut and stained. I used a stencil to letter the sign on the front of Cowles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225200105-53958515.jpeg)
I had to touch up the sign's stencil marks, but a 000 brush and Optivisor did the trick.
.
The windows and doors were assembled and painted, and glazing was added. The floor, ceiling, front porch, and sidewalk were completed next. The roof support posts were installed, the porch braces and roofing were added, the terra cotta chimney was added, windows and doors were inserted in the openings, and an interior floor was added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225200901.jpeg)
The kit didn't have a foundation so I made one from dimensional lumber and carved stones into the exposed faces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225200107-539591015.jpeg)
The structure is nearing completion and ready for details.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
This build was a lot of fun. It was my first stucco structure and easy. Here is the front view without the sidewalk and final signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020225201551.jpeg)
Final side views
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225123637-539991524.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225123636-539982400.jpeg)
Final front view
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225123636-539961642.jpeg)
The details are a mix of purchased and home-printed items. I'll add a Model T panel truck lettered for Cowles to the final scene.
That's a wrap on Cowles General Store. Hope you enjoyed the show. BTW, next up is a massive scratch built structure, Parish Livery.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, thanks for posting this detailed thread. You seem to be as budget-minded as I am, and you're getting great results. Scratch-building is exactly what I enjoy reading most on a forum. It's why I was on RR-L and freerails (RIP) before.
Quote from: friscomike on February 01, 2025, 09:38:14 AMI am thrilled with the results of my 3D resin printer (Mars 3). Here is a sample of details parts that might be hard to find and cost a fortune to ship...
Shipping small things is my frustration as well. I live halfway between Chicago and Milwaukee, not a retail desert by any measure, except hobby shops! There's a guy in a small hobby shop in my closest downtown who's open sporadically, with no apparent regularity. That's fine, I understand. But when I introduced myself on my first visit and said "I'd like to re-enter the hobby with some scratch-building" he grumbled: "Nobody scratch-builds anymore." End of conversation. No offer of "I can order for you from Walthers, etc"
About an hour away, there's an excellent brick and mortar, Des Plaines Hobby, near O'Hare Airport. Being an hour away, I'm always making my list and checking it twice. He has ordered products for me from his large list of vendors as well.
Ordering online myself for one or two small items usually costs as much or more to ship as the item.
I'm following the 3D printing threads and mentions here closely. My son-in-law has just related an interest in it for a different hobby, and my grandson is approaching just the right age...
Howdy folks,
The next structure on my list is Parish Livery and Drayage. The structure was built from scratch and designed in Affinity Designer. I don't have a pretty design to share but have enough to give you an idea of the preliminary design. The exterior is board and baton of 12" boards on all sides but the front which will be ship lap. Wooden shingles are on the roof. The size is 9" wide by 6" tall and 6" deep.
Backstory
Stephonic Parish was a retired Sergeant Major from Ft. Davis in south Texas. Mr. Parish used his 20 years of Army pay savings and bought a mule team and wagon. He started a drayage and transfer business which was a huge success. Eventually, he made enough money from drayage and transfer to buy an abandoned old livery stable in Quitaque. Thus, he opened Parish Livery and Drayage. In addition to mule teams, horses, and wagons, Mr. Parish purchased a motor truck, too. Services offered are regular livery and stable, horse sales, and drayage/transfer to Floydada and Turkey. (Steve Parish, the structure's namesake, is a fellow modeler, veteran, and good friend at the Texas Western Model Railroad Club.)
Here is where it all started
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130343-540001201.jpeg)
The Parish LIvery dimensions are 9"W X 6"D X 6.5" High and cut from 1/8" bass plywood. One side is open and the other enclosed. The scribe lines you see in the photos are for batten guides. The middle photo shows the inner front wall. The outer wall will be board and batten. A peak crowns the front along with crown moldings. A small corral will adjoin the back of the structure. The initial planning for color is barn red like I've done on Choctaw Lumber structures with a faded white front.
Front wall cut and laid out
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225134358.jpeg)
Rear wall and interior walls
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130348-54001313.jpeg)
Exterior side walls
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225131155-540272464.jpeg)
That's it for now. Stay tuned!
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: IWannaRetire on February 03, 2025, 01:12:32 PMMike, thanks for posting this detailed thread. You seem to be as budget-minded as I am, and you're getting great results. Scratch-building is exactly what I enjoy reading most on a forum. It's why I was on RR-L and freerails (RIP) before.
Quote from: friscomike on February 01, 2025, 09:38:14 AMI am thrilled with the results of my 3D resin printer (Mars 3). Here is a sample of details parts that might be hard to find and cost a fortune to ship...
Shipping small things is my frustration as well. I live halfway between Chicago and Milwaukee, not a retail desert by any measure, except hobby shops! There's a guy in a small hobby shop in my closest downtown who's open sporadically, with no apparent regularity. That's fine, I understand. But when I introduced myself on my first visit and said "I'd like to re-enter the hobby with some scratch-building" he grumbled: "Nobody scratch-builds anymore." End of conversation. No offer of "I can order for you from Walthers, etc"
About an hour away, there's an excellent brick and mortar, Des Plaines Hobby, near O'Hare Airport. Being an hour away, I'm always making my list and checking it twice. He has ordered products for me from his large list of vendors as well.
Ordering online myself for one or two small items usually costs as much or more to ship as the item.
I'm following the 3D printing threads and mentions here closely. My son-in-law has just related an interest in it for a different hobby, and my grandson is approaching just the right age...
Howdy Marc, thank you for your post. I appreciate your comments. It sounds like you and I are on the same train. The nearest hobby shop to me is over an hour and half away. We persist, though. It is a fun hobby. Have fun, mike
Howdy folks,
The Parish Livery and Drayage continues. I designed the outside walls with rafter tail slots. I love being able to cut so many rafters with the laser instead of gluing them in a jig. After a few adjustments, the main roof rafter design was finished and the cut and fit test was completed. Parish needs 13 for the top roof and 40 for the side roofs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130553-54009634.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130400-540042343.jpeg)
Everything is cut on the laser for Parish Livery except the front skin, roof cards, and floors. I distressed the wood and started on all those battens soon.
I scored guidelines and attached the rafters to the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225131159-54028363.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225140816-54037918.jpeg)
Top rafters with ridge pole
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225142123.jpeg)
The assembly of parts is next.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I decided to go with horizontal clapboards on the front instead of B&B. The clapboards are 6" showing. The guidelines are 12" apart. Transfer adhesive will hold the clapboards in place. I tried several kinds of paper and cardstock, then decided on good ole manilla file folders. I painted the front a tan or weathered white and the rest of the structure barn red. The doors and windows were painted brown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130535-540058.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130550-54008967.jpeg)
Assembly of the parts
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130705-54012149.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225144044-54045857.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225144038-540441012.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225144037-540421338.jpeg)
Final roofing is next.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
This post will describe the colors on the stable.
Here is a photo of the first coat of barn red wash. I'm using Peterpools technique. The wash is diluted Dr. Ben's barn red stain with rubbing alcohol. I am using Dr Ben's stains and pigments on the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225144924-54046205.jpeg)
I've used Peterpools technique for weathered barn color on several models and like it. Here is his recipe:
1. A wash of Acrylic Barn Red (the red undertone color of a worn and faded wall)
2. Burnt Umber weathering powder
3. Wash of A&I
4. Dry Brushing with the following colors:
- Goose feather ( light tan)
- Country Twill ( Light brown)
- Black for the lower board stains
- Country Twill again
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225144928-54047644.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The roofing was the final detail on the structure. I wanted to use cedar shingles but ran short. I decided to use printed paper shingles for the first time and they turned out nice. The funny thing was that I ran short of paper shingles, too, so decided on a board and batten (leaky) roof on the open-air side of the stable.
Main roof
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130657-54010504.jpeg)
Open area roof
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225151952.jpeg)
Top view showing singles and B&B lathing
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130950-54022333.jpeg)
Roofing is done, so it is off to details...did you say hay bales?
Have fun,
mike
Hay folks,
The hay loft needed hay, so I experimented a bit and settled on making hay bale cores from dimensional wood. Here is the process:
1. Make Hay bales: size is 3'x 18"x 15" 1:1 cut from basswood into two sizes. One size is 1.5' long and the other is full size. More about the half-size later.
2. Coat hay bale wood with contact adhesive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225152320-540481382.jpeg)
3. Cover with flock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225152323-54050787.jpeg)
First coat of flock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225131401-540311312.jpeg)
4. Spray with a second coat of contact adhesive.
5. Cover with a second coat of flock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225131412-54033962.jpeg)
6. The next step was to square up the bales and then use fly fishing tippet to simulate baling wire or string.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225131415-540341532.jpeg)
7. Finally, make a faux hay loft viewable from the front loft door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225131608-540361074.jpeg)
Loft
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225154001.jpeg)
Next up are signs and the final assembly.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Parish Livery and Drayage is complete for now. It will get animals, figures, more hay, and a corral when I plant it on the layout. Until then, here is the finished structure:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130951-540232262.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130953-540242097.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130947-54021774.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225130704-540112142.jpeg)
Hope you enjoyed Parish as much as I did. The next build is Nowlin's Gas, my current build.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The next build is a gas station kit that I'm calling Nowlin's Gas.
Backstory
Pate and Winnie Nowlin moved from Arkansas to the Indian Territory in Oklahoma. Pate was working on a ranch but wanted something better. In 1889 the government opened almost two million acres of unassigned Indian Territory for settlement. The prospect of owning land was Pate's dream as he had always wanted to farm. The two loaded their belongings including Winnie's heirloom China into a wagon and lined up for the land rush. During the rush, they lost their wagon and all they owned in quicksand on the South Fork of the Canadian River. Down but not out, they climbed up the southern bank of the river and joined a new community of Sooners that became New Castle. They staked out their 160 acres of land and began farming. Sadly, they could not make a go of farming alone, so they built a gas station in town to support the farm. Alas, still they could barely make ends meet, so they decided to go to Texas where they had heard about a new gold rush in the southern part of the Texas panhandle. They sold their 160 acres and farm implements and headed southwest to Texas. That brought them to Quitaque, Texas where they built a stone gas station from locally available materials and hoped to make a good living by supplying fuel and oil to the miners and mining equipment companies.
I hope you enjoyed the backstory of Nowlin Gas. This is mostly true except for...
The Nowlni's Gas is a Thomas A. Yorke Enterprises design now labeled Scale Model Masterpieces and sold by DebenLLC (Doctor Ben).
The kit appears to be cast gypsum. The castings are sharp and impressive. The kit comes with fish scale shingles, but I don't know if they represent slate or asphalt shingles. I saw a similar design on an old country house and they were a warm red color.
The instruction book is augmented from the original Thomas York book and includes several excellent tips and guides left out of the original manual.
Here is Scale Model Masterpieces pilot photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161907-54066551.jpeg)
I have become especially fond of gas stations since attending a clinic on gas stations at a Narrow Gauge Convention in Colorado. This kit should be fun. Has anyone else built it?
I finished cleaning the castings and making the modifications that Doctor Ben recommended in the instructions. The corners are supposed to look like columns with brick walls in between the columns. The original kit didn't provide for this look, but the updated instructions do.
The kit includes a large base with recesses for the walls to fit into. The walls fit easily into the base, but the end walls were flat against the side walls. A correct look would have been for the side walls corners would look like pillars. One of the modifications recommended in Doctor Ben's instructions was to continue the mortar lines around the corner of the end castings. I used a fine Zona saw to make the cuts. See the below.
Kit contents
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161632-540542369.jpeg)
I started by adding mortar lines to the end castings. The lines continued around the casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161636-540552075.jpeg)
The castings received a base coat of khaki paint, that dried overnight. I like to paint or prime castings so the mortar lines are easier to flow color. I painted the walls before I glued them together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161747-540591901.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161621-54051852.jpeg)
Assembly required beveling the wall bases with sand paper. I used epoxy for glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161748-54060734.jpeg)
Next up is the canopy and canopy columns.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The canopy is next. It consists of cast end wall, rafters, and roof cards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161746-54058314.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225171819-540762054.jpeg)
The underside of the canopy
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225173025.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225171903-540801553.jpeg)
That's the canopy with its support columns.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I decided to paint the trim green and the door and windows a weathered red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161752-54061479.jpeg)
Details
The gas pumps look a little skewed here, but it is the distortion from the camera.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161901-54062746.jpeg)
Kerosene tank
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225171827-540781325.jpeg)
Air compressor, shed, spitoon, bench, and chemical fire extinguisher.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225174117.jpeg)
Grease rack
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225162021-540711610.jpeg)
Figure (in process)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161905-540641273.jpeg)
Signs
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225161901-5406359.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225162100-540721478.jpeg)
Telephone pole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225175031-54081152.jpeg)
That's it for now. Next will be the station before scenery is added.
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
Nowlin's is looking great. The details will give the garage life.
All the builds you have shared look outstanding Mike even if most of them I have seen before. Outstanding is still Outstanding.
Looks like you're up to date now Mike.
Howdy folks,
Ron, Curt, and Rick, thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
Here are a few photos before the scenery and figures:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225162105-540741154.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225162019-5406993.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225162018-540681200.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-030225162021-540701146.jpeg)
That's it, now on to the dirt!
Have fun,
mike
What a grand scene, well done Mike..... 8)
8)
Looks great, Mike.
Cheers, Mark.
Mike can't wait for the new build! You doing some excellent work keep at it.
Jerry
The amazing thing about the Thomas Yorke kits in general, is that he used those basic wall castings for the starting point of several kits. The beauty to me, is that the roof angles were identical, so kit mingling and bashing is limited only to imagination.
Great stuff to imagineer with! Here's a cut and paste idea that can be done using those same parts, with a few more additional Thomas York parts
Howdy folks,
Thank you for the kind comments Gregory, Philip, Mac, Jerry, and Dave.
Jerry, in addition to the box car, I am thinking about kitbashing the Inter-action Hobbies tool shed, which would be concatenated with a scratch-built water tower. That would let me enjoy building a kit and scratch building in foam and wood.
Here is the vendor photo of the toolshed. The available details are terrific.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050225111928.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike that looks like a really nice kit so enjoy.
Howdy folks,
Thank you Larry. I appreciate the comment.
The scenery is complete on Nowlin's. Just waiting for the matt medium to dry. I finished painting two figures and have one to go, and then it is finished...until I finish a model T or two...
Here are two fellas, Paul, the cool one, and Billy Dean with the straw hat (He lost an arm in WWI.). They are waiting for their next oil change customer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050225162557.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
That is an excellent scene and back story Mike.
Mike, Nowlin's is looking better than ever now with the scenery added.
Great job all around on that build.
Looking forward to your next builds with the boxcar and shed.
"Oh, neato! My car is fixed". 8)
Great scene Mike!!
Jerry
Mike like the scene and love the story. All that work in the build and details has really paid off.
Howdy folks,
Thanks again for the comments Curt, Rick Philip, Jerry, and Ron.
I'm inching toward the completion of Nowlin's Gas. Today I worked on the last figure and it is almost done. The figure is Mr. Nowlin reading a newspaper who has fallen asleep sitting in his chair out front.
Most of the modeling time was spent on the telephone and power lines from the pole to the station. I used fly tying tippet, painted dark grey, and glued with ACC to insulators on the pole and station. The pole needs a little cleanup otherwise, it is finished.
Pole and transformer connections
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-060225172153.jpeg)
The lines extending from the pole to the station
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-060225172056-54152524.jpeg)
I hope I finish it tomorrow. I'm anxious to get on to the next projects.
Have fun,
mike
That looks very good Mike.
Mike, the looks very good and the wiring is a great touch.
The dirt used in the scenery is perfect.
Is that transformer something you printed? It looks nice.
Philip
Love this kind of modeling...
You had me at "Dave Meek" ;D
Quote from: Philip on February 06, 2025, 10:42:02 PMIs that transformer something you printed? It looks nice.
Philip
Howdy Philip, Thanks! The telephone poles were a kit from Morgan Hill and included the transformers. Have fun, mike
Thanks for the inspiration. I gotta get my own butt in gear around here. I'm great at starting projects, not so much finishing them.
Dave
Mike,
It's all looking fantastic.
Tom
Howdy folks,
Dave and Tom, thank you for your kind words and encouragement.
These are the final photos of Nowlin's Gas. I will post updates when it is planted on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-080225130153-54188512.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-080225130153-541891045.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-080225130154-54190794.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-080225130156-54191189.jpeg)
As luck would have it, I didn't blow the baking soda from the front porch. Oops!
The next build is in planning, and hopefully, it will be a water tower and maintenance shed.
Have fun,
mike
Great work, Mike. Especially the stonework.
Jeff
Truly outstanding modeling Mike.
Mike,
That diorama is absolutely stunning. I love the brick, stone work coloring and the auto rack.
Wonderful build. Hope you had fun as you say! ;D
Tom
This is so beautiful Mike; it is a stand alone piece of art. You should be very proud. I know I'm very lucky to have the opportunity to be considered a part of, and get to witness the wonderful accomplishments of a group of artists like ya'll. It is a joy.................thanx
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Mike, you hit a home run with this one.
Congratulations!
Mike that looks fantastic!! Very well done and should look great
on your layout.
Great scene Mike..... 8)
Really nice work...Great colors
John
Mike that is just some exceptional modeling!
Coloring the scenery all first class work!!
Jerry
Howdy folks,
The adventure continues with another non-revenue structure, the railroad's water tower and maintenance shed. While I would like to build the Sierra West version, it's all done for you except for all that detail painting. I wanted to try a new technique for making stones for the water tower base and creating the tank.
I had planned to scratch-build the maintenance shed until I saw Inter-Action Hobbies' CPR Shed #3. I liked it so much that I ditched the scratch-build shed plan and purchased the Inter-Action kit with the interior detail option. Its construction technique is different from any I've built before, so it will be a treat. I may add a hand car to the build if I find one I like.
Here is the vendor's photos of the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160225135157-543361149.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160225135146-543321850.jpeg)
The kit comes with all the details seen in the photo. The price was good, too.
Here is a layout of some of the kit parts:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160225135155-54334567.jpeg)
The kit comes with mostly laser-cut parts of laserboard and basswood. It has nice 3D-printed details and a lighting kit, not bad at all. The instructions look to be thorough with lots of photos, steps, and tips.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160225135150-54333163.jpeg)
I spent the afternoon painting walls in preparation for assembly and hope to post photos of progress tomorrow.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Wow, what a great looking structure. Love the weathering and interior details. That burglar screen over the window is top notch.
Keep having fun my friend.
Tom
The kit has everything included. Your build looks great. I look forward to a night shot Mike.
Hello Mike, I've really enjoyed catching up on your structure build thread. Some very nice modeling indeed.
Mike, that a good looking kit especially the interior details.
Like Tom, I think the screen over the windows is unique and looks good.
Mike this looks like a really nice build coming up.
A lot of nice details included.
Jerry
Mike great looking kit; enjoy and have fun.
Howdy folks,
Tom, Curt, Jeff, Rick, Jerry, and Larry, thanks for following along.
The last couple of days have been painting the walls of the maintenance shed. The Inter-Action Hobbies kit uses construction techniques that I have never seen before. You can see an example in the first photo.
The walls shown are the inside walls painted to look like tar paper. You will notice tan overlays that are guides for constructing the walls. After gluing them to the black walls, you simply glue the already cut-to-size studs, plates, etc. onto the overlays. Neat!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170225175504-543651490.jpeg)
Here are the reverse sides of the walls painted in Buffalo Canyon Mining green applied in two shades with a sponge. I plan to weather the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170225175508-54367839.jpeg)
The trim will be a weathered wood-gray like the depot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-300125233920-536361398.jpeg)
That's it for now.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, that is a different way of building kit walls, but I like it.
Easy Peasy! I like the color.
Mike that looks great. Nice way to build a kit.
Jerry
Gorgeous build! The potbelly stove is also cool...... :'( just don't touch it.
Howdy folks,
Rick, Curt, Jerry, and Philip thanks for following along.
Today I assembled the sides and ends on the boxcar (still in the clamps) and started weathering the shed walls. I don't have photos of those individual projects, but I do have a photo of my workbench with all the models in process. The shed walls have weights on them while the weathering dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190225142310.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Howdy Mike. Nice work of the framing and walls.
I like the green colour, so should fit well with the little depot.
Great pic of the work bench. I also generally have a couple of projects on the go at once.
I always like seeing photos of other people's workbenches...
dave
Looks a bit like my mess! Carry on!
Mike, that's the way a modeling bench should look. ;) :)
Yep, any modeling bench with more than a sq foot of working space, in't a real modeling bench. ;D
Mike you have to stop keeping everything so neat!!! ;D :) ;)
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Rob, Dave, Philip, Rick, and Jerry thank you again and again for your support.
Today I finished painting all the little bits of the shed and am in the process of assembling them. The attached photo depicts the interior and exterior of the ends plus the back wall with stud guide, plus the inside of the doors and a sample window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-200225155938-544031178.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
This is going to be a fine little building. I wish they offered it with the detail and lighting set in HO scale!
Building is looking good Mike.
Mike, I like the way that looks.
Mike the shed is looking really good. Your bench on the other hand........
Have fun.
Your hard to keep up with! On a roll Mike!
Looks great and carry on!
Philip
Mike,
Love the colors and weathering on the depot. Very well done. Keep having fun.
Tom
Howdy folks,
Mr. Critter, Ron, Rick, Larry, Philip, and TomACL thank you for your comments and support!
The walls are ready to assemble. Here are a couple of photos of progress.
Exterior
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-260225114156-544971888.jpeg)
Interior
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-260225114156-544982412.jpeg)
The floor has tab slots, so assembly should be too difficult.
Have fun,
mike
Looks very good Mike.
Very nice Mike. Carry on!
Jerry
Mike, the green looks very good.
Howdy folks,
Curt, Jerry, and Rick, I appreciate your comments and support.
The maintenance shed is progressing well. I have to say this kit is well engineered.
Today I worked on the roof. It's drying now, and I will post photos when it is dry.
In the meantime, here are a few photos of progress.
Walls assembled and ready for the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280225132107-5452443.jpeg)
Rafters in place and glued except for the end rafters.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280225132111-54525980.jpeg)
I decided to use corrugated iron roofing instead of the included wood shingles. It will match the depot which is next to it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280225132112-54526339.jpeg)
One roof panel drying under weights
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280225132116-54527582.jpeg)
Yesterday I received a hand car kit from Wiseman Model Services to accompany the maintenance shed.
Have fun,
mike
Looks great Mike.
Mike, that's a seriously strong roof to hold all those weights.
It's all coming together nicely.
Mike is the roofing from Wild West Models? I think that's the name. If not they are very similar.
Mike nice job on your build so far. The green color fits the structure very well. Enjoy the build.
Mike that gets better with each post.
I really like the roof and my God are those rafters strong!!
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Thank you Curt! Indeed, the corrugated iron is from Wild West Models. It comes in long strips that I cut on the chopper. Notice there is no blood on the roofing. ;)
Have fun,
mike
Thank you, Rick. IAH makes a strong kit. ~mike
Larry, thank you for the encouragement. I know it is a modeler's choice to choose colors, but it is helpful when folks share their critique, good or bad. ~mike
Jerry, thanks for the complement. I was leery of putting all that weight on the roof, but so many rafters did the trick. ~mike
Very nice, Mike. Good choice on the roofing.
I didn't realize this was going to be such a weighty subject.
Mike
Quote from: Michael Hohn on March 02, 2025, 08:32:07 AMVery nice, Mike. Good choice on the roofing.
I didn't realize this was going to be such a weighty subject.
Mike
Howdy Mike, thanks for the comment. You know the wind blows hard in west Texas, so had to keep the roofing down... Have fun, mike
Nice work Mike! Are the Wiseman handcars On30 gauged?
Philip
Great work Mike, looking good..... 8)
Mike,
The handcar shed is coming along great great, I also like the colour.
Quote from: Philip on March 02, 2025, 10:21:49 AMNice work Mike! Are the Wiseman handcars On30 gauged?
Philip
Howdy Curt, the instructions say On3/On30. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
The shed is looking fantastic. I love the faded green color. Well done.
Tom
It's so cool...I drool. Way to go Mike..I love it.
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Thanks Tom and Kyle. ~mike
Howdy folks,
My modeling is on the back burner while my left hand heals. I cut a good 1/4" off my pinky finger with a cabbage slicer. Blood thinners have made healing a slow process...
I did manage to remove the weights from the shed roof. Here are a few photos of the result. Weathering still to be done.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-060325085736-546291544.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-060325085736-54630342.jpeg)
Eave trim, i.e., frieze boards are next. Door hinges and mounting follow.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, that's a good looking roof.
Glad the finger is doing better.
Ouch, :o
They make some really flexible band aids. Hope you get back to the modeling table!
The roof looks great!
Nice job on the roof. I hope the finger feels better soon
Mike,
Really nice job on the roof.
Good luck on the finger. My wife had one of those slicers. She used it once, took off the end of her finger, and got rid of it. Shortly afterwards I was talking to somebody at work; same story.
Mike
Mike great looking roof!! Watch those digits man; you only have so many.
Hope the finger heals quickly and well; maybe toss the slicer.
1/4"...OUCH..!!!!!!!!THAT'S GOTTA BE WICKED PAINFUL. You are so right, blood thinners make ya bleed forever and the healing time is also drawnout. Hope the nail didn't get too badly damaged, it sucks to have to deal with that also.
The shed looks fabulous, I hope the digit heals up as fast as it possibly can. Good thing we're not on the metric system; YOU CUT OFF 6.35MM !!!!!!!!!!!!! That sounds HUGE...............
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Howdy folks,
Rick, Philip, Cut, Mike, Larry, and Kyle, thank you for your kind comments and following the topic. I appreciate the thoughts about my ailing finger, too.
Despite the pain, I managed to build a few details. Here is a photo of a shelf and the beginnings of assorted tools for the wall and the bench top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070325164136.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Those are really nice detail parts Mike. I especially like the shelving unit with drawers.
Mike, those are great looking details and will look great in the shed.
Philip, ouch!
Mike those are some sweet looking details; well done.
Mike nice job on the roof.
The cabinet is really well done.
Nice details where did you get those?? Just be careful with big sledge hammer that you don't hit the the bad finger with it!!
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on March 08, 2025, 09:18:26 AMMike nice job on the roof.
The cabinet is really well done.
Nice details where did you get those??
Jerry
Was wondering the same about those cool details. Between you and Larry I'm about to spend more money.
Philip
Howdy folks,
Curt, Philip, Larry, and Jerry, thanks for following and encouraging me to spend more money. ;)
I finished aging the workbench and cabinet in the shed and am preparing cans, bottles, books, etc, for them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-100325154722-54719509.jpeg)
In situ
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-100325154722-547182332.jpeg)
They look better in person.
Have fun,
mike
They look fine in pictures to!!
Jerry
Very nice Mike.
Mike, not sure how they look in real life but that bench and shelving unit looks like it's been in that shed for over 20 years.
Mike, the bench and cabinet have aged very well.
8) Looking great!
Mike, will fill up my Frisco mug that was picked up by my daughter when she worked for that Texas city back some 20 years ago with a Pepsi and follow along on your thread...looks interesting...Tommy
No problem Mike. Our pleasure! ;)
Quote from: friscomike on March 10, 2025, 03:52:33 PMHowdy folks,
thanks for following and encouraging me to spend more money. ;)
mike
I like how you did your various cabinets and shelves. Very realistically done, like they've been in service for a long while.
Mike
Mike,
Not only are the details very nice, they are perfectly weathered - dirty and nasty as they should be.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 10, 2025, 04:44:24 PMThey look fine in pictures to!!
Jerry
Thank you Jerry.
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 10, 2025, 08:48:50 PMMike, not sure how they look in real life but that bench and shelving unit looks like it's been in that shed for over 20 years.
Ron, I appreciate the support. ~mike
Quote from: Rick on March 10, 2025, 09:56:23 PMMike, the bench and cabinet have aged very well.
Thanks Rick. ~mike
Quote from: Philip on March 11, 2025, 09:42:43 AM8) Looking great!
Philip, thanks for the encouragement. ~mike
Quote from: Michael Hohn on March 13, 2025, 08:44:21 AMI like how you did your various cabinets and shelves. Very realistically done, like they've been in service for a long while.
Mike
Thank you, Mike. That is the look I was going for. ~mike
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 11, 2025, 03:25:34 PMMike, will fill up my Frisco mug that was picked up by my daughter when she worked for that Texas city back some 20 years ago with a Pepsi and follow along on your thread...looks interesting...Tommy
Hey Tommy, that's cool. Not modeling the Frisco anymore is my only regret moving to On30. ~mike
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 13, 2025, 08:49:29 AMMike,
Not only are the details very nice, they are perfectly weathered - dirty and nasty as they should be.
Tom
Hey Tom, that's as they should be. Thank you for the support. ~mike
Howdy folks,
It's 7:30 pm and my vision is finally returning from the dilation from my ophthalmologist appointment. I worked a little on the shed details, but I'll need to recheck tomorrow when my vision improves.
As I near completion of the shed, I still have a few modifications to add: a coal pile for the stove, a stack of ties—speeder, water tower, barrel of spikes, etc. Hopefully photos tomorrow.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Here are a few photos of the workbench. IAH used a laminated approach for the hammer heads and saw handles.
Closeup of tools
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140325133608-547371320.jpeg)
Workbench in process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140325133609-54738553.jpeg)
Back to the bench, lunch is over... ;)
Have fun,
mike
Mike, that looks great.
Woof. That workbench shot. Just needs a roll of paper towels, an ashtray, a bottle of Irish, and a can of used fasteners waiting to be sorted to look like the one I've got in the shed at my summer place.
Mike great job on the cabinet and workbench; very well done.
Excellent modeling Mike. The tools look outstanding.
Mike really a nice job. Where did you get the tools??
Jerry
Quote from: Rick on March 14, 2025, 06:39:13 PMMike, that looks great.
Rick, thanks for the encouragement.
Quote from: Mr. Critter on March 14, 2025, 07:51:46 PMWoof. That workbench shot. Just needs a roll of paper towels, an ashtray, a bottle of Irish, and a can of used fasteners waiting to be sorted to look like the one I've got in the shed at my summer place.
Thank, hmm, Sears catalog maybe? Bottles are coming. Great ideas...thanks you Sir. ~mike
Quote from: Larry C on March 14, 2025, 08:23:01 PMMike great job on the cabinet and workbench; very well done.
Larry, that's a most kind complement. Thank you.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 15, 2025, 06:43:43 AMExcellent modeling Mike. The tools look outstanding.
Curt, I appreciate your comment. Thanks!
Quote from: Jerry on March 15, 2025, 09:13:42 AMMike really a nice job. Where did you get the tools??
Jerry
Jerry, thank you. The tools were part of the interior detail set from Inter-Action Hobbies that I purchased with the kit.
Howdy folks,
I'm calling the workbench "Done". I could keep fine tuning, but I want to move on to other things. I will dust the bench with a little sooty pigment, but that is about it. The bench is about 1.75" wide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150325123313.jpeg)
Next up is the cabinet.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I had a good day upstairs working on the shed. Here are a few photos of the current status.
The cabinet (needs some sanding :o )
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150325171917-547431129.jpeg)
Three quarter view with removable roof
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150325171907-54739116.jpeg)
Interior view of crank wall phone and bench
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150325171912-54741320.jpeg)
Interior view of workbench, stove, and cabinet glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150325171916-547422409.jpeg)
Next up will be some dirtying of the floor, track for the speeder, weathering the roof, adding the doors, and placement on a base. I plan to add a small coal bin for the potbelly stove, a stack of ties, trash barrel, etc. Oh yes, the water tank, too, but that will be a whole new project from scratch. I hope to build the Wiseman speeder at the same time.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, to say you had a good day upstairs is an understatement.
The bench and cabinet look amazing.
The entire interior is perfect.
Great job Mike!
Awesome work Charlie 9 fingers! 8)
Philip
Mike that's turned out really well and looks amazing.
Mike your detail work is outstanding.
Mike, Howdy,
Wow, what a great looking build. I love the weathered look of the cabinet with all the stuff on the shelves. Fantastic look overall.
Tom
Will there be a chimney for that stove? That's the only thing that caught my eye as other than perfect...
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 16, 2025, 01:27:43 PMWill there be a chimney for that stove? That's the only thing that caught my eye as other than perfect...
dave
Howdy Dave, indeed there is a stove pipe and chimney. I am just getting to it. Thanks for the post. ~mike
A big thank you to Rick, Philip, Larry, Curt, TomACL, and Dave for your kind comments. Curt, I have ten, one is just a little shorter... Have fun folks, mike
Mike those details are great. really a nice job on the workbench & cabinet.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Jerry, thanks for the kind compliments.
Here is an update on this afternoon's work. I added a chimney stack and doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170325202414-54744471.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170325202415-547451241.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Sweet work Mike!
The workers appreciate the chimney, otherwise...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfBboBz3yoc
dave
Outstanding!
Quote from: deemery on March 18, 2025, 09:10:18 AMThe workers appreciate the chimney, otherwise...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfBboBz3yoc
dave
Love it!
Quote from: deemery on March 18, 2025, 09:10:18 AMThe workers appreciate the chimney, otherwise...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfBboBz3yoc
dave
Excellent!
Mike it keeps looking better and better with each update.
Very inspiring Mike. Keep it up.
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Howdy folks,
Jerry, Larry, and Kyle thank you so much for following the build and sharing your kind comments.
Today was spent painting details including four barrels and a crate of junk. I built a ladder for the back of the shed. The paint for wood and rust effects takes a while between coats, so I'm looking at other tasks to do while the paint dries like cutting the base, starting on the water tower....
I can't decide whether to build the water tank base from stone, brick water, or wood. Thoughts?
Have fun,
mike
I would think wood would be the most common base.
I vote for stone.
I vote for the stone look.
Jerry
Stone would look better, but I think wood would be more prototypical. Stonework is a significant investment for the builder/owner. Railroads were often "over-capitalized" and spent money on things they shouldn't. Industries tended to be more realistic about their investments ;D
dave
STONE(D) my man, STONE(D).............that's for all us 1960s' teenagers........
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Beautiful work, Mike. That's a very believable model.
Howdy folks,
I appreciate the comments from Curt, Rick, Jerry, Dave, Kyle, and Mike. I decided to go with a stone base for the water tower.
Have fun,
mike
Great work Mike, well done..... 8)
Thanks Gregory. I appreciate your comments and support. Have fun, mike
WOW-....FAR-OUT MAN.............stone..(D)?????????????? :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Very nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Kyle and Larry. I do appreciate you looking in and commenting. Have fun, mike
Any layout update photos to share????
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry.
Howdy folks,
I'm shifting focus from structures and rolling stock to the layout. I have procrastinated as long as I could, and am finally in the mood. My OCD took over, so I am starting from the left end of the layout and will work to the right.
First up will be the bridge to the planned mining peninsula (phase 2). The bridge is the fine wooden Howe Truss from Hunterline. You can't build a good bridge without abutments (well, in my youth I bridged the Rhine River many times without abutments ;) ), so they are the first step.
I started with 2" blue EPS foam and cut the abutments to shape with my new toy. I have never made anything structurally from foam, so this is a first for me. It's also a learning experiment, so I would appreciate your comments.
Location for the abutments with blank foam in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154636-55095288.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154636-550961160.jpeg)
New toy from Proxxon. It didn't cost much more than a set of O scale abutments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154636-550972376.jpeg)
First step was to roughen the foam surface with an aluminum foil ball.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154636-550982089.jpeg)
Next, I cut horizontal lines with a blade and added vertical lines. I tore random blocks to help depict an abutment built in the 1800s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154636-550991596.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154730-551001440.jpeg)
The next step was to spray a primer coat of Camouflage Khaki. The paint left a rough surface on the foam which was an added benefit of the primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-140425154730-551011078.jpeg)
Finally, I washed the abutment with Country Twill craft paint. That's as far as I got today. Time to rest. Just one more abutment to do for now.
Have fun,
mike
Looks great. When the paint is applied it will really POP! Nice cutter also Mike!
Mike, nice looking abutments and congratulations on the new toy.
Howdy folks,
Philip and Rick, thank you for following along.
Today I finished making the 2nd abutment and painted both.
Stones made and a coat of primer on both.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160425134708-551132467.jpeg)
Painted and ready to plant on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160425134712-551142073.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160425134717-55115927.jpeg)
Okay, next up will be staining bridge kit wood and sculptamold...
Have fun,
mike
Perfect!
Well done Mike and the coloring perfect.
Nice little toy you have there.
Looking forward to the bridge.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Rick and Jerry, thank you for your kind words.
I started work on the bridge today. I started with the deck where the rails will go, and will work the chords next.
The box
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170425122238-55126506.jpeg)
Kit contents (some hidden by plans) Instruction booklet and two sheets of scale plans.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170425122238-55127269.jpeg)
Bridge Stringers in the clamps after cutting to the correct length, gluing, clamping, aligning, and flattening on plate glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170425122239-55128628.jpeg)
So the bridge is now in process.
Have fun,
mike
Neat bridge Mike, I'll be looking in..... :)
Howdy folks,
Gregory, thank you for following and commenting.
Today I almost finished the tie and stringer assembly. Tomorrow I hope to drill the holes and attach the NBWs to every fourth tie. There are 324 NBWs in the kit. Man, does my back hurt from hunching over all those ties. I'm disappointed in my stain mix, so I'll need to go back over the assembly to make it more creosote colored. The kit is mostly basswood, but the ties are pine for better spike holding. The pine doesn't soak up the stain like the basswood.
Ties and stringers on the wax paper-covered plans. This kit is nice!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-180425173946.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Very nice Mike. I see your building the 1:64 scale bridge a good choice for ON30.
Jerry
Mike, nice and neat job on the ties and stringers.
324 NBW's! :o WOW!
Have fun with that. :)
Quote from: Jerry on April 18, 2025, 06:46:26 PMVery nice Mike. I see your building the 1:64 scale bridge a good choice for ON30.
Jerry
Howdy Jerry, the vendor and Ron said the 1:64 was perfect for On30, and I agree. The 16" long bridge is perfect for my layout. Have fun, mike
Howdy folks,
Thank you, Rick and Jerry, for following.
I drilled 44 holes for the NBWs on the tie protector strips and glued in the NBWs. Here are a couple of photos of the stringers and ties. The rail and fire barrel will be added later. This assembly is 16 1/8" long.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190425120234-551311449.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190425120232-551291364.jpeg)
Today I am working on the bottom cords of the bridge. I am waiting on the stain to dry before proceeding.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The bridge kit is not that complicated to build, yet. The instructions and templates make it easy. I think the most difficult parts are coming up.
Over the last few days, I completed the end posts, top, and bottom cords. Four beams compose each cord, separated by spacers. The following photos show the technique.
This photo shows the final assembly of the end posts by stacking the beams with spacers. Here, glue is applied, ready for the final beam.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-200425213539-551361020.jpeg)
The individual end beams with spacers are ready for assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-200425213533-551321639.jpeg)
Tomorrow, I plan to stain the chords and ends with a grey barnwood stain to give them an aged look. I know some items will have more creosote and will be darker brown/black. Then I will add the angle blocks and start the assembly of a side.
I need to stain all the connecting rods (there are many) with a chemical blackener. I've had my batch for about 25 years, so I hope it still works.
Have fun,
mike
Looking good Mike.
Great start Mike.
Jerry
Excellent looking modeling Mike.
Mike,
Wowser. what great looking brick work. It looks better than some rubber molds I've seen.
Tom
Howdy folks,
Rick, Jerry, Curt, and Tom, thank you for the comments and support.
Today, I finished the angle blocks for the braces and drilled holes for the metal rods that connect the top and bottom cords. Tedious that! I set up the Dremel drill press to ensure the holes were plumb and aligned properly. I think it took more time to set up the drill press than to drill the holes. I think there are about 90+ holes, thus connecting rods.
Top and bottom cords with angle blocks for the braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210425182929-55146509.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210425182927-55145703.jpeg)
Next up is staining them grey and blackening the tie rods.
Have fun,
mimke
Were the angle blocks pre-cut in the kit? A drill press is a huge advantage for bridges like this.
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 21, 2025, 06:42:52 PMWere the angle blocks pre-cut in the kit? A drill press is a huge advantage for bridges like this.
dave
Howdy Dave, indeed, the angle blocks were cut in two sizes, large and small. The large is for five rods and the small for three rods. I would have had rods going in all directions without the ole' drill press. Have fun, mike
Quote from: friscomike on April 21, 2025, 06:46:39 PMQuote from: deemery on April 21, 2025, 06:42:52 PMWere the angle blocks pre-cut in the kit? A drill press is a huge advantage for bridges like this.
dave
Howdy Dave, indeed, the angle blocks were cut in two sizes, large and small. The large is for five rods and the small for three rods. I would have had rods going in all directions without the ole' drill press. Have fun, mike
That would save a lot of time. On the truss bridge (similar design, much smaller) I did, those blocks were metal, and a friend 3D-printed them for me.
IMG_9415.jpg
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 21, 2025, 07:12:00 PMQuote from: friscomike on April 21, 2025, 06:46:39 PMQuote from: deemery on April 21, 2025, 06:42:52 PMWere the angle blocks pre-cut in the kit? A drill press is a huge advantage for bridges like this.
dave
Howdy Dave, indeed, the angle blocks were cut in two sizes, large and small. The large is for five rods and the small for three rods. I would have had rods going in all directions without the ole' drill press. Have fun, mike
That would save a lot of time. On the truss bridge (similar design, much smaller) I did, those blocks were metal, and a friend 3D-printed them for me.
IMG_9415.jpg
dave
Howdy Dave, nice bridge! 3D printing is a great idea. These blocks were two pieces, but the whole process was easy. The printed versions with dimples of holes would be the bomb! Have fun, mike
Nice job Mike. Lots of holes to drill there.
Jerry
On my truss, you can see the two longer outrigger pieces, that's for the diagonal sway bracing from the end of the outrigger up to the top chord of the truss. That's necessary because this is a pony truss, there's nothing connecting the top chords of the trusses across the track.
dave
Mike great job on the bridge piers, like the coloring, as well as the bridge base. All those NBW's and holes
to be drilled; that definitely screams sore back. Keep 'er going it's looking great.
Mike,
Your bridge is looking good. I like the stain you're using. The wood has a nice aged appearance.
Mike
That confounded bridge is coming along nicely. ;)
Howdy folks,
Jerry, Dave, Larry, Mike, and Philip, thank you for your comments. I appreciate you following along.
The 88 holes I drilled needed to be chased because the stain had shrunk them. It wasn't as tedious as the first go round, but it was annoying to repeat work. The tie rods and collision beams are installed. The cross braces were stained today, and will be ready to cut to size tomorrow (I hope). Since the bridge chords may have moved a bit from the plan, the vendor advises cutting each diagonal brace to fit versus using the plan.
I have to say that the wood in the kit is exceptional in quality, with no blemishes, warps, or twists. It makes building the kit so much more fun.
Here are the chords after gluing together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-240425164521-55155157.jpeg)
Tie rods (22) and collision braces are in place and ready for the cross braces to be installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-240425164522-551561815.jpeg)
That's it for today.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, that looks fantastic!
Getting a truss done is a big sense of accomplishment! All you need now is the cross-bracing, but take your time and make sure the joints are tight.
dave
You give super detailing a great name! That looks complicated. Well done!
Mike very nice work on the bridge.
Looking really good Mike; keep at it.
Outstanding job Mike. Those cuts are perfect!!
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Rick, Dave, Philip, Curt, Larry, and Jerry, I certainly do appreciate your comments and guidance. This morning and early afternoon were consumed by the Masonic Lodge's Annual Car Show for the Georgia Children's Home. Cool cars, in spite of cloudy skies. Here is a photo of my favorite, a 1921 Model T converted for transporting passengers from the Atlanta Train Station to a local hotel. I see one of these in my building future...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-260425175631.jpeg)
This afternoon, I began adding bracing. Handy tools were my NWSL wide chopper and True Sander. Here is the bridge with all the cross bracing stained and ready to cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-260425174923-5516123.jpeg)
Here is a start on one of the chords. I ran out of gas thirty minutes ago, so more tedious brace fitting will occur tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-260425174926-551621741.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike, hope you're able to add one of those Model T's to the layout.
Excellent job of cutting those angles and getting a tight fit.
Mike nice car.
Outstanding cutting and fitting on that bridge.
Jerry
Mike great looking auto. Things looked classier back then. Wonderful work on the bridge side Mike.
Neat and the VW! 8)
Howdy folks,
Rick, Jerry, Curt, and Philip, thank you again for your comments.
After they receive a full complement of NBWs, the bridge chords will be complete and ready to be connected.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270425131436.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
Excellent job on the building of the bridge sides. It looks fantastic Mike.
Tom
That looks fantastic Mike.
I agree with Curt.
Fantastic was the first word that came to mind.
I concur..... 8)
Excellent work Mike!!
Jerry
(Looks like my post from yesterday didn't make it so I'll try again)
Mike,
Bridge is looking great.
I've built that bridge 3 times. The first time when I originally bought it, the second time when the module it was on fell over when some accidentally bumped it a set up and it fell over and the third time when the it didn't survive the trip to Springfield in a horse trailer.
Howdy folks,
As always, TomACL, Curt, Rick, Gregory, Jerry, Philip, and Ron, thank you for your support.
Ron, three? Wow. I guess that after one, you could fly with the others.
Today was NBW day and continues into the afternoon. I took time out this morning to stain wood for the next phase.
A gig for the NBW holes made drilling holes easy. The gig had ears that held the holes in correct alignment.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280425133659-551922077.jpeg)
Proof of NBWs
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280425133659-551931238.jpeg)
Thanks again for stopping by.
...and have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The NBWs are installed, and assembling both sides of the bridge has begun. Please forgive the messy computer desk...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280425171341.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike, using the jig made quick work of attaching those NBW's.
Getting close to the finish now.
Great idea using a jig Mike. Perfect so far.
Jerry
Almost done! 8)
Extremely well done Mike.
Mike that is one excellent looking bridge!!!!! It's nice you had a jig to not only make quick work of the NBW's but look professional when finished> Keep'er go'in.
Great progress Mike, looking good..... 8)
Howdy folks,
Rick, Jerry, Philip, Curt, Larry, and Gregory, thank you for your kind and supportive comments. I don't like bunching you guys in one sentence, but it saves modeling time. ;) ;) ;)
Nearing completion, but still have a ways to go. Yesterday I completed the floor beams, and today I installed the lintels and top cross braces. Next will be the bottom cross braces and the horizontal rods to connect the two chords.
End view of the floor beams and top cross braces. The camera angle is crooked, but you get the idea.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040525173428-55265409.jpeg)
Side view of the bridge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040525173427-55264916.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
WOW! That's impressive.
Beautiful work Mike.
Jerry
Nice!!!
I would of drilled a hole in my thumbnail!
Mike, very nice work...Tommy
Very quality modeling Mike.
Quote from: Rick on May 04, 2025, 06:45:57 PMWOW! That's impressive.
Mike, Howdy,
I agree, that is very impressive work.
Tom
VERY nice!!!
dave
Good evening, folks,
Rick, Jerry, Philip, Tom, Curt, Tom, TomACL, and Dave, thank you again for your support.
This afternoon I was able to install all the horizontal chord connecting rods and their NBWs. Also installed the vertical rod caps. I need to go over the bridge with an AI wash. My India ink dried up so I ordered more.
Here is a photo of today's work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050525180222.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Very nice!
8) A strong bridge!
Very NICE, the bridge is, I say, ;D ...sort of behind as I don't seem to keep track of builds as well as the old RR-L. ::)
Karl
Wonderful bridge. Great build.
Jeff
Now that's a Bridge!!!!!!!! Fantastic work Mike.
Good afternoon, folks,
Rick, Philip, Karl, Jeff, and Larry, I certainly appreciate your comments.
I'm calling this one mostly done. I still need to add track and mount the bridge on the abutments. I'll work on those items as side projects.
I thought I was finished yesterday, but the abundance of NBWs from the kit made me wonder what I forgot. Alas, I forgot the inside and outside NBWs on the four end posts. So today I drilled the holes and mounted the NBWs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-060525165317-552661350.jpeg)
Here is a photo of the bridge without the track and tie stringers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-060525165317-55269713.jpeg)
While far from a contest entry, I think it's a decent build. I heartily recommend Hunterline Kits. This one was fun to build.
NEXT: I decided to work on the water tower for the next structure and a few other smaller projects. I plan a stone base, and a flat top tower.
Have fun, and thanks for stopping by.
mike
Very well done, Mike! The angles are nice and tight, you've included both vertical and horizontal tension rods. Coloring is spot-on.
(If you still have lots of NBWs left over, could they be for the stringers to the lower beam?)
dave
An a beautiful build it is!!
Jerry
Quote from: deemery on May 06, 2025, 05:25:14 PMVery well done, Mike! The angles are nice and tight, you've included both vertical and horizontal tension rods. Coloring is spot-on.
(If you still have lots of NBWs left over, could they be for the stringers to the lower beam?)
dave
Thanks, Dave,
Indeed, the NBWs could be used on those floor beams. The instructions didn't show them, but it makes sense to me. That will probably be a side project, along with walking floor boards along one side.
The bridge will be one of the first things folks will see when they walk into the room, so I'd like for it to be showy. ;D
Have fun, mike
Quote from: Jerry on May 06, 2025, 05:26:59 PMAn a beautiful build it is!!
Jerry
Jerry, thank you, kind sir!
Very nicely done! Congrats.
I've been following your bridge build closely since I first ran across it, as last winter I also started a timber deck truss. I was scratch-building it from old Model Railroader plans drawn by Jack Work. Plans are for a 74' span.
I couldn't help but notice back on post #236 you choose an S scale model for your On30 layout. I also model in On30.
After I built my first side truss, I placed it next to my small rolling stock (18' to 24' cars for the most part) and no matter how many times I looked at it, it looked overbuilt and out of place, so I paused the build. I was contemplating just re-sizing some members until they looked good to me, but simply reducing the scale would save a ton of guesswork.
I'll be very interested to see pictures of your bridge with finished tracks and if I might ask, a picture of rolling stock on the tracks?
Mike, it looks like contest quality to me.
Great job!
Quote from: IWannaRetire on May 06, 2025, 06:50:45 PMVery nicely done! Congrats.
I've been following your bridge build closely since I first ran across it, as last winter I also started a timber deck truss. I was scratch-building it from old Model Railroader plans drawn by Jack Work. Plans are for a 74' span.
I couldn't help but notice back on post #236 you choose an S scale model for your On30 layout. I also model in On30.
After I built my first side truss, I placed it next to my small rolling stock (18' to 24' cars for the most part) and no matter how many times I looked at it, it looked overbuilt and out of place, so I paused the build. I was contemplating just re-sizing some members until they looked good to me, but simply reducing the scale would save a ton of guesswork.
I'll be very interested to see pictures of your bridge with finished tracks and if I might ask, a picture of rolling stock on the tracks?
Howdy Mark, several people, including Hunterline, suggested S scale instead of O. Scratch building a Howe Truss would be a huge challenge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070525110528-552701543.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070525110528-552711195.jpeg)
Good luck with your build.
Have fun,
mike
Rick, thank you again for the many kind comments. ~mike
Sweet.
Looks like Larry is the forum 'Lone Ranger' now? ;)
Sweeeeeeet!!!!!!!!!
I didn't realize that was S scale. :o My 2 MDC Shays have Wiseman S scale cabs.
Howdy folks,
Philip and Larry, thank you for your comments.
Yesterday, I shifted focus to the layout and installed all the turnouts in Phase I. Today, the glue (Aleene's Tacky Glue) is dry, so I'll begin connecting the track. First, I need to solder power leads to each three-foot track section.
I am spraying the track with Krylon Camouflage brown paint. I like the color for both rails and ties, and it is easy to weather. To remove paint from the top of the rails, I wipe them with Homasote blocks while the paint is still wet.
Here are a couple of quick photos of turnout progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-090525095007-552731520.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-090525095007-55274807.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
FriscoMike said Scratch building a Howe Truss would be a huge challenge. I'll say from experience it's a challenge. The key is to have very precise drawings, from which you can cut the precise angles for the various diagonal members. The Ultimation Sander/Repeater is a great tool for this. (https://handlaidtrack.com/product/ult-sa-re/?v=0b3b97fa6688 )
image_27454.jpg
If you remember BurleyJim from Railroad-Line, he 3D printed the (cast iron) shoes at the top and bottom of my diagonals. His help is gratefully acknowledged. (And if you look carefully, you can see the bridge is level, but the track is sloped. I talked to a civil engineer about that, he said "that's the way to do it" rather than having the bridge itself parallel the slope of the track.)
dave
Mike, it's exciting seeing track being laid.
Very nice Mike! 8)
What cork are you using? Looks like rubber?
I used Caboose Industries N #206 S switches on mine. They look better when compared to the O scale ones (in my eyes)
Philip
Quote from: deemery on May 09, 2025, 10:08:15 AMFriscoMike said Scratch building a Howe Truss would be a huge challenge. I'll say from experience it's a challenge. The key is to have very precise drawings, from which you can cut the precise angles for the various diagonal members. The Ultimation Sander/Repeater is a great tool for this. (https://handlaidtrack.com/product/ult-sa-re/?v=0b3b97fa6688 )
image_27454.jpg
If you remember BurleyJim from Railroad-Line, he 3D printed the (cast iron) shoes at the top and bottom of my diagonals. His help is gratefully acknowledged. (And if you look carefully, you can see the bridge is level, but the track is sloped. I talked to a civil engineer about that, he said "that's the way to do it" rather than having the bridge itself parallel the slope of the track.)
dave
Howdy, Dave, I think the shoes would be a big challenge, and the 3D printed ones would be a time saver. I discovered that following the plans exactly didn't always work because of wood movement. Mostly, the plans were a key element to an easy build. Have fun, mike
Quote from: Philip on May 09, 2025, 10:15:11 AMVery nice Mike! 8)
What cork are you using? Looks like rubber?
I used Caboose Industries N #206 S switches on mine. They look better when compared to the O scale ones (in my eyes)
Philip
Howdy Philip, the roadbed is a dense foam I bought on eBay. It is now sold by Walthers as their new roadbed. The roadbed would not hold spikes, but it is nice to work with if using an adhesive. Have fun, mike
Mike good to see the track laying getting started.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Jerry, thank you for your support.
Track laying has been the main project on the Buffalo Canyon layout. It isn't going as quickly as I'd like, but I am trying to avoid mistakes. The process is paint the track, clean the top of the rails, solder the leads, drill the hole for the leads, cut the rails to the correct length, solder rail joiners to the new rail (I use N scale joiners), feed the leads into the hole, apply adhesive to the road bed, pull the leads through, connect and solder the new rail to the old rail, bend rail to fine tune its position, apply rail to roadbed, add weights, rinse and repeat. It's fun, but slow. Here are a couple of photos of progress:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-110525194648-552751758.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-110525194648-552762472.jpeg)
I've been 3D printing details, too. The FDM printer is printing stone walls for a sheriff's office and a water tower base. The resin printer is printing Model T tires, vintage gas cans, and other details for the gas station.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, it be a slow progress but it looks like you're getting much done.
Can't wait to see your printed walls and what you make with them.
Mike great start. Might be slow but it's done correctly.
Can't wait to see the printed parts.
Jerry
Mike great job on installing the track. Taking your time will negate problems down the road.
Great job so far Mike.
Just catching up here, Mike. Thanks for the photos of the rolling stock on the bridge, S scale looks very appropriate to my eye.
Your trackwork is looking great!
Howdy folks,
Rick, Larry, Jerry, Curt, and Mark, thank you, kind Sirs, for your support.
I'm still laying track, but I won't bore you with track photos until the job is finished.
Jerry asked about 3D printed details, so here are a couple of photos of the prints.
The first depicts the stone walls for the sheriff's office and jail, Model T tires, oil cans, and stake pockets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-120525173537-55277603.jpeg)
The walls interlock and are in four-inch sections. Here is a photo of the interlock effect when assembled.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-120525173538-552782410.jpeg)
I got a new phone and haven't mastered the photo settings for F stops and exposure. Apologies for the photo. Working on it. If you look on the right side, you will see a black mark. That is the height of the office. I'll probably mimic the Sheriff's Office and Jail produced by Stoney Creek Designs. I wish it were still available.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-120525174732.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Very nice 3D printing Mike.
Great print!
Mike, walls look great.
I think you might have been holding your phone too close to the subject.
Back up some and zoom a little if you must.
Also, if you hold the phone that close it might have a macro setting.
WOW!! Nice printing Mike.
Jerry
Mike great job on the print!! Should be a good looking building when finished.
Like you say "Have fun!!"
Howdy folks,
I appreciate your support, Curt, Philip, Rick, Jerry, and Larry. Rick, thanks for the photography tip.
I am almost finished laying track, but don't have photos to post. A 24" siding and a 24" of mainline remain to be laid. So far, everything is tracking and looking good. I'll try to finish the gandy dancer work if I have time later.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Yesterday, I finished laying the track for Phase I (main layout). Next, I'll connect the electrical drops for the turnouts and track.
Here are a few photos that depict progress from west to east.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160525100537-55325906.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160525100537-553241647.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160525100537-553261888.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Looks great Mike!!
Jerry
Nice work Mike.
8) Likey!
Mike, very nice.
Doing the electrical was never my favorite part either.
Looks like trains might be running soon.
Howdy folks,
This starts the water tower build thread that joins the maintenance shed (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=183205). The tower is scratch-built from 3D castings, wood, and a few brass castings.
Here is a photo of a few parts. I'll post dimensions later. I don't have a sketch, it's all in my feeble head.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-170525121312.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Great job on the track work Mike, looks professionally done. The water tower is going to be an interesting build.
Looking forward to seeing the water tower come to life.
Mike nice looking track work; you must have Paid the "gandy dancers" well.Looking forward
to your water tower build.
Nice looking walls Mike.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Ron, Curt, Larry, and Jerry, thank you for your comments and support.
The clamps are on the glued water tower base. I'll paint the interior dark brown and the exterior tan. The stone paint will be similar to the Palitti Tannery (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179073)colors. The door and window were difficult to cut out. FDM PLA is some tough stuff to cut. I don't know why I didn't design the door and window into the print. Lessons learned.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190525115737-55333507.jpeg)
The tank core is complete and ready for wrapping in wood. There is nothing exciting about the core, just that I was able size it to match the base.
Have fun,
mike
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190525115737-553342387.jpeg)
That's it for now. I'm switching to the stock car while the glue dries.
Have fun,
mike
Those walls came together really well Mike. I believe you said you 3D printed them?
Howdy folks,
Curt, I 3D printed them with a FDM printer using PLA filament.
The water tower base was in the clamps while the ACC glue dried. I used some old dollhouse cove molding (circa 1978) for corner reinforcement, although it was probably not needed with the interlocking sides.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190525173633-553352388.jpeg)
Here is a photo of the tank wrapped in wood and sitting on the base. It will get supporting rafters, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190525173633-553361877.jpeg)
...and a full frontal view.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190525173633-55337980.jpeg)
I had intended to put a flat roof on the tank, but looking at it now I think it deserves a packed shingled roof.
Have fun,
mike
Looks great Mike. I think the peaked roof will look better than a flat roof.
Mike, nice job printing the walls and tank.
I have to assume the tank is hollow.
Peaked roof will look great.
Mike, you printed the stone walls with a FDM printer, I'm impressed. That's a lot of detail for a FDM printer.
Quote from: elwoodblues on May 19, 2025, 09:37:26 PMMike, you printed the stone walls with an FDM printer. I'm impressed. That's a lot of detail for an FDM printer.
Ron, thanks. I have an old, cheap Creality CR-10, and the version of my slicer, Cura, has a superfine mode. The combination seems to do well, although those walls take nine hours each to print. Have fun, mike
Howdy folks,
Thanks, Curt, Rick, and Ron, for your comments. I appreciate your recommendation for the peaked roof. I'll make it a hexagon with cedar shingles. I don't remember enough trig and geometry to calculate those roof panels, but I'm sure there is a calculator online.
Have fun,
mike
Wow Mike that is really coming along. Great work on the stone walls and the wooden tank. A peaked roof for sure.
Jerry
Mike I can only echo what the others have already said; great job!
Howdy folks,
Jerry and Larry, thank you for your comments and support.
This photo shows the tar paper roof, tank rafters, and test-fit paper hex roof resting in place without being glued down. The tank base rafters are 8"X12".
What are your thoughts about the size of the hex roof? I made a larger version, and it didn't look right. The sample overhangs the tank and is as wide as the stone base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-200525173837.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
I think it sits too tall. Make the roof flatter and I think you'll like it better.
dave
Mike, I did a quick search on wooden tanks with peaked roofs and saw many examples of tanks with lower roofs and ones with taller peaks.
You're the one that has to live with it so go with what you think looks best.
The example you show looks good to me.
Looks fine to me. 8)
Looks good to me Mike.
Howdy folks,
Dave, Rick, Philip, and Curt, I appreciate your comments. The roof in the previous photo was not pressed all the way down, so it did look tall. I calculated the roof angle for 22 degrees, which is normal, I think.
The stones received another coat of paint and some weathering. The roof received the tank supports. The tank received two coats of different greens to get the color that matched the maintenance shed and depot.
The side that faces the track.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210525160730-553401870.jpeg)
This side faces the maintenance shed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210525160730-553381838.jpeg)
There are so many little things remaining to be done. The tank roof, bands, logo, spout, supporting frame, ladder, door, and window...
Have fun,
mike
The stone color looks very good Mike. Are you planning on aging the green color?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 21, 2025, 04:24:41 PMThe stone color looks very good Mike. Are you planning on aging the green color?
Howdy Curt,
Thanks for your question.
Indeed, I plan to weather the tank something like the maintenance shed (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=183205) with water stains, too. The paint needs to cure a bit more before I start the weathering process.
Have fun,
mike
"It's green!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQAG0JEb718
dave
Quote from: deemery on May 21, 2025, 05:06:42 PM"It's green!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQAG0JEb718
dave
LOLOL! Good one, Dave.
Mike, it all looks good to me.
Mike, what Rick said. ;D
8)
Mike, sitting in the wings I have been watching your build. Looks great to me.
I also have one to finish building, so I will be looking for your great tips.
Rich
Mike, Howdy,
The water tank looks great. Excellent work. Love the stone/brick color.
Tom
Howdy folks,
Rick, Ron, Philip, Rich, and Tom, I appreciate your kind words and encouragement.
Here are a couple of photos of the build to date. The tank hoops are plastic sprayed with dark brown camo paint and splattered with rust paint. I made hoop tensioners from a piece of flat plastic and round wire (representing a threaded bolt). We'll see if people are fooled when I install them.
I just noticed the roof below the tank is 90° out. The boards should run across the beams, not with them. Darn! I don't know if I can pry them loose, but I'll try.
The tank is mostly weathered. I'll add a bit more when it is all assembled.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-230525170649-553411197.jpeg)
I finished the door on the right side of the base, but I need to glue it in place and touch up the paint. Should I leave the door ajar or shut? I don't have an interior planned other than a water pipe from floor to ceiling. I need a light on the outside over the door, too.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-230525170649-55342773.jpeg)
I cut out the roof hexagons from some old ribbed HO plastic and stained the cedar shingles. Although the roof will be supported by rafters at the joints, I am hoping the ribs will keep the plastic from sagging. Perhaps tomorrow I'll apply the shingles.
I looked at the cast brass spout on hand and think it may be a bit large for the tower. It is good-looking and I may use it anyway.
My back hurts! Think I'll have a martini. All are welcome to join! 8)
Have fun,
mike
Well, Mike, I feel better to know someone else does "glued the boards the wrong way" mistakes!! With a little luck, you'll be able to dis-assemble the floor, and any breakage would probably look like more weathering. ;) I also like how the green toned down.
dave
Mike the water tower is looking great. It's a pity the boards are going the wrong way.
If you can get the tank free, you could lay another layer of boards on top of the ones already
there, going the right way, to save you some frustration. I'd leave the door ajar just a little for interest.
Quote from: deemery on May 23, 2025, 06:14:22 PMWell, Mike, I feel better to know someone else does "glued the boards the wrong way" mistakes!! With a little luck, you'll be able to dis-assemble the floor, and any breakage would probably look like more weathering. ;) I also like how the green toned down.
dave
Howdy Dave, yeah, the green was bright. I used the same technique I used on the depot and maintenance shed to tone it down. I don't want people making YouTube videos about how GREEN it was. ;) Have fun, mike
Quote from: Larry C on May 23, 2025, 06:16:20 PMMike the water tower is looking great. It's a pity the boards are going the wrong way.
If you can get the tank free, you could lay another layer of boards on top of the ones already
there, going the right way, to save you some frustration. I'd leave the door ajar just a little for interest.
Howdy Larry. The tank isn't attached yet, so hoping I can pop the boards off with a putty knife. Fingers crossed! Thanks for the door comment, I feel the same way about it. Have fun, mike
Mike, the weathering on the tank and bands turned out excellent.
I'm sure you'll be able to fix the board issue.
How'd you make the water stains on the tank?
I agree with Larry about leaving the door just slightly ajar.
Quote from: Rick on May 23, 2025, 07:31:15 PMMike, the weathering on the tank and bands turned out excellent.
I'm sure you'll be able to fix the board issue.
How'd you make the water stains on the tank?
I agree with Larry about leaving the door just slightly ajar.
Howdy Rick. Thank you for your support!
The water stains are from Vallejo white primer and a fine brush. The black mildew stains didn't show well, so I may kick them up a bit. I used prototype photos as guides. Have fun, mike
Great work Mike the green looks nice now.
I'd leave the door open a tad also.
You could also put boards on the rafters to hide them if you can't get them apart.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on May 24, 2025, 12:09:55 AMGreat work Mike the green looks nice now.
I'd leave the door open a tad also.
You could also put boards on the rafters to hide them if you can't get them apart.
Jerry
Howdy Jerry, thanks for your input and idea to correct my mistake. I've been putting off going upstairs and trying to pry it off... Have fun, mike
Great work Mike! I'd take a scratch awl or heavy sandpaper and obscure the contour lines in those brick faces.
It's gonna be nice!
Can that be printed vertically?
Philip
Howdy folks,
Philip, thanks for the comment. I don't know, having not tried it, but I don't see why not. It would be faster because bulk printing is easier. I can't see the print lines at 12" distance.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
My benchwork is on the water tower roof, specifically the shingles. Here are photos of the first hex segment and three completed. Just three more...
The segment is around 3/4" at the base. The shingles were applied to .03" plastic.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270525113234-55363386.jpeg)
Three segments today. I'm still thinking about what to use at the hex segment peaks, singles or wood strips.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270525113235-553642043.jpeg)
I'll tweak the shingles and dry brush them after they are attached to the tank body.
Have fun,
mike
They look very good Mike. Who makes the shingels?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 27, 2025, 12:25:09 PMThey look very good Mike. Who makes the shingels?
Howdy, those are from Rusty Stumps, straight cut, shake. I am rapidly running out of my stock from RS. ~mike
The prototype might have just put a drop of tar at the top and along the seams.
dave
Howdy folks,
Dave, thanks for the comment.
The segments are finished and ready to be assembled. Here is a photo with the segments resting on a printed paper template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270525134829.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Just wow! I want to share the way I did a roof similar. I place scale 1x2 or 1x3 so it didn't need capped at each seam. Lower roof is the same. I cut it out with a steel nail file I stole from Gena. Basically a dado cut. Added some old watch parts as the finial.
Philip
Mike nice roof and looks quite fidly to build.
Mike, outstanding job on staining those shingles.
I don't think you shared how you did it.
Mike excellent work on that roof.
Jerry
Quote from: Philip on May 27, 2025, 02:27:12 PMJust wow! I want to share the way I did a roof similar. I place scale 1x2 or 1x3 so it didn't need capped at each seam. Lower roof is the same. I cut it out with a steel nail file I stole from Gena. Basically a dado cut. Added some old watch parts as the finial.
Philip
Howdy Philip, thanks for the comment. Your technique is what I used, and the roof looks similar. Your tower looks fantastic. It's a beautiful model. Have fun, mike
Quote from: Larry C on May 27, 2025, 02:39:37 PMMike nice roof and looks quite fidly to build.
Howdy Larry, believe me, it was fiddly...real fiddly. I used plastic as the underlayment so it would be easy to glue the wedges together. I don't have good luck with superglue, maybe it's old. Thanks for the comment. Have fun, mike
Quote from: Rick on May 27, 2025, 06:54:22 PMMike, outstanding job on staining those shingles.
I don't think you shared how you did it.
Howdy Rick, thank you for your kind words. I brushed a coat of a dark weathered grey stain on raw cedar shingles. I followed up with a light barnwood stain from Dr Ben's applied with a sponge. Finally, I sprayed this with an A/I mixture from an old hairspray bottle. Nothing fancy. I try different techniques on every roof I build. Have fun, mike
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280525100128-55382985.jpeg)
Quote from: Jerry on May 27, 2025, 11:06:28 PMMike excellent work on that roof.
Jerry
Howdy Jerry, thank you for your continued support and kind words. Have fun, mike
Howdy folks,
The water tower is coming along. Here are photos of the completed roof. Thanks to all for suggestions and comments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280525100128-553832417.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280525100128-55384988.jpeg)
The water spout is next on the workbench.
Have fun,
mike
Hello Mike, I really like the roof for your water tower build. Very nice modeling.
Nice tower. Great job on the roof.
Jeff
Agree with the other comments, the roof with the battens at the gaps look great.
dave
Nice job Mike. I like the water leaks makes it look realistic!
Jerry
Mike outstanding job with the roof.
Tah Dah !
Now the fun part begins! Exceptional modeling Mike!
Philip
Mike, that's what you call top notch modeling.
Well done!
Mike great job on the roof! I see you were able to change the boards under the tank; looks so much better.
Howdy folks,
Thank you, Jeff, Jeff, Dave, Jerry, Curt, Philip, Rick, and Jerry, for your support. Your encouragement kept me going.
Today, I worked on the water tower rafter tails and spout mechanism.
The water spout is mostly complete except for some touch-up painting. I used fly-tying lead thread for the cables. The pulleys were left over from a plastic ship model I built in 1969 (I never throw anything away, lol).
Here are two views of the spout..
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-300525180424-55442613.jpeg)
The spout was made with telescoping sections of aluminum pipe. The connectors were made with bronze eyebolts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-300525180424-554411800.jpeg)
The final rafter tails are in place and will be cut with nail clippers when the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-300525180424-55443668.jpeg)
The finale is coming soon...
Have fun,
mike
Mike, you scratched those spouts?
WOW, great job on that.
I second Rick's comment.
Great stuff, top to bottom...the roof is especially well done.
John
Hello Mike, great job on the water spout, it looks very realistic.
Great work Mike!
Mike impressive on that water spout!!
Jerry
Mike great job on the H2O spout; that's not an easy item to scratch build.
Howdy folks,
Rick, Curt, John, Jeff, Philip, Jerry, and Larry, thank you for your continued support. I do appreciate your comments and guidance.
Although the glue is still drying, I wanted to share the status. Dry brushing, flat coat, and pigments remain to be done. I'll be doing 1:1 stuff for the next few days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310525110000-55445159.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310525110000-554461329.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310525110000-554471660.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
So far this is turning out to be a masterpiece! Don't forget the water stains and residue on the floor underneath the tank where the water dripped down.
dave
(I have NO IDEA where that crap with Google URLs came from, but I removed it! I have as little as possible to do with Google.)
Gorgeous modeling Mike. I think I heard it say it wanted to come to my layout! ;D
Quote from: deemery on May 31, 2025, 11:51:51 AMSo far this is turning out to be a masterpiece! Don't forget the water stains and residue on the floor underneath the tank where the water dripped down.
dave
(I have NO IDEA where that crap with Google URLs came from, but I removed it! I have as little as possible to do with Google.)
Howdy Dave, thanks for the kind comment and reminder. Have fun, mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 31, 2025, 12:18:18 PMGorgeous modeling Mike. I think I heard it say it wanted to come to my layout! ;D
Howdy Curt, That's surprising because I didn't put the voice module in it yet... ;) Thanks for the complement. Have fun, mike
Mike, you hit this one out of the park!
Terrific masterpiece... :o
Excellent work Mike..... 8)
Curt it's to big for your layout. :) But will fit perfectly on mine!!!
It's just so well done Mike!! Or as Dave said a Masterpiece!!
Jerry
Quote from: Rick on May 31, 2025, 06:15:45 PMMike, you hit this one out of the park!
Rick, thanks a ton. ~mike
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on May 31, 2025, 10:11:16 PMTerrific masterpiece... :o
Karl, thank you for the kind words. ~mike
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 02, 2025, 02:43:02 PMExcellent work Mike..... 8)
Gregory, thank you, kind Sir! ~mike
Quote from: Jerry on June 02, 2025, 04:36:15 PMCurt it's to big for your layout. :) But will fit perfectly on mine!!!
It's just so well done Mike!! Or as Dave said a Masterpiece!!
Jerry
Jerry, that's some mighty fine praise. I appreciate it. ~mike
Turned out great! Safe travels Mike! 8)
Philip
Well Mike,
For a 3d printed model on a FDM printer it looks fantastic. you would think it was a resin kit. Well done (a gazillion thumbs up).
Have fun on your trip and safe travels.
Mike, Howdy,
The water tank looks fantastic. Wonderful job on this scratch build. Beautiful model for sure.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on June 04, 2025, 10:16:21 AMTurned out great! Safe travels Mike! 8)
Philip
Philip, thanks for your kind words. ~mike
Quote from: elwoodblues on June 04, 2025, 09:36:38 PMWell Mike,
For a 3d printed model on a FDM printer it looks fantastic. you would think it was a resin kit. Well done (a gazillion thumbs up).
Have fun on your trip and safe travels.
Ron, thanks for the encouragement and travel wishes. ~mike
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 06, 2025, 10:33:22 AMMike, Howdy,
The water tank looks fantastic. Wonderful job on this scratch build. Beautiful model for sure.
Tom
Tom, I appreciate your compliment and encouragement. ~mike
Howdy folks,
The water tower is complete, except for ties, spike barrel, crates, and general trash to be applied when it is mounted on the layout. For now, here are a few photos showing the finished tower.
Front
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-250625155343-55586856.jpeg)
Top view of front
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-250625155343-555882168.jpeg)
Side that faces the maintenance shed
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-250625155343-55589846.jpeg)
Back view visible from the isle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-250625155343-555901364.jpeg)
Window side
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-250625155343-555911163.jpeg)
That's it. The next build may be a sheriff's office or a cattle car. I don't plan to rush into them so I can work on the layout...the ever elusive layout.
Have fun,
mike
Outstanding modeling Mike. It's an inspiration to all of us.
Mike, it's sublime.
The painting and weathering is top notch.
The little touches like the screen on the window are excellent.
Mike,
Very nice scratchbuild. It looks very real. I like all the textures--stone, wood, shingles, etc--and subtle colors.
Mike
Mike beautiful work!! Coloring and everything works so well together.
Jerry
Great tower. Beautiful work.
Jeff
Mike like the others have said great work and looks very realistic; it'll
make a nice addition to your layout.
A dandy Mike!
Mike, Howdy,
Just a really fine model and weathering. Love it my friend.
Tom
Hello Mike, oustanding job !
Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 25, 2025, 04:29:04 PMOutstanding modeling Mike. It's an inspiration to all of us.
Curt, thanks for your kind comments and following along. ~mike
Quote from: Rick on June 25, 2025, 06:40:58 PMMike, it's sublime.
The painting and weathering is top notch.
The little touches like the screen on the window are excellent.
Rick, glad you like the build. Thanks for your encouragement. ~mike
Quote from: Michael Hohn on June 25, 2025, 06:59:37 PMMike,
Very nice scratchbuild. It looks very real. I like all the textures--stone, wood, shingles, etc--and subtle colors.
Mike
Mike, thanks for your comments and encouragement. ~mike
Quote from: Jerry on June 25, 2025, 11:49:59 PMMike beautiful work!! Coloring and everything works so well together.
Jerry
Jerry, I appreciate your commenting and following the build. ~mike
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 26, 2025, 07:46:00 AMGreat tower. Beautiful work.
Jeff
Jeff, thanks for your comment. It is encouraging. ~mike
Quote from: Larry C on June 26, 2025, 08:10:26 AMMike like the others have said great work and looks very realistic; it'll
make a nice addition to your layout.
Larry, as always, I appreciate you following the build. The kind words are nice, too. ~mike
Quote from: Philip on June 26, 2025, 08:34:40 AMA dandy Mike!
Philip, I appreciate your comment. ~mike
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 26, 2025, 12:24:25 PMMike, Howdy,
Just a really fine model and weathering. Love it my friend.
Tom
Tom, your comments made me smile. I appreciate you following the build. ~mike
Quote from: nycjeff on June 26, 2025, 08:19:41 PMHello Mike, oustanding job !
Jeff, thanks for the encouraging comment. ~mike
Magnificent work, Mike.
Great finish Mike, wonderful details and weathering, well done..... 8)
I'm rather late to the party Mike; however it's absolutely beautiful. Ditto to what everybody else said...except that one guy who said "it looks great; but no pigeon shit on the roof"???? :o :o :o :o :o ....Seriously Mike, it's possibly the best work I've seen from you. ;) - And everything else you've done has been incredibly cool. 8) 8) 8)
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry Co.
Mike,
Once again, I'm late to the party.
That water tower is one of the finest I've seen.
You hit that one out of the park!
Very nice modeling. Looking for more from you.
Rich
Howdy folks,
Fresh back from a vacation from being retired, and have new energy to work on the layout. First:
Karl, thank you so much.
Gregory, thanks for the kind comments.
Kyle, wow, your comments. Of course, there will be pigeon stuff on the roof, you just can't see it "yet".
Rich, those are some mighty fine comments. I appreciate it.
Thanks to all for looking.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I just finished a tricky bit, aligning the bridge deck and adjoining ties. I had rubber bands, clamps, and zip ties holding the bridge ties to the bridge structure. I don't plan to glue the ties on the bridge deck until I add the rail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-190425120232-551291364.jpeg)
After some trimming, both abutments are plumb and level with the glue drying.
Next, I'll fill in the abutment sides (seen with some black lines marking strata.
Here are a couple of photos of the bridge abutments "in the clamps".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040725110355-55614163.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040725110356-556151655.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Looks Great! Happy 4th Mike!
Great looking modeling Mike.
Mike those are some classy abutments. Happy 4th.
WOW!! Just have to love the coloring on those abutments!!
Have a nice fourth!!
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Philip, happy fourth, and thank you!
Curt, muchas gracias.
Larry, happy 4th to you, too. Many thanks!
Jerry, happy fourth to you and yours. Thank you for the kind words.
Thanks to all who stopped by for the bridge chronicle.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
The abutments are in place. Here are a few shots of the supports removed from the abutments and one of the bridge in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040725170809-55621758.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040725170809-556222212.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-040725170809-55623333.jpeg)
I started working with the foam in preparation for Sculptamold.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, you've been busy today.
Bridge and abutments look great.
Have fun with the sculptamold.
Mike I can hardly keep up. Great work looking forward to the reet of the scene coming together.
Jerry
Mike looks great!!! Coming together nicely. Have fun!!
8) Nice!
Howdy folks,
Rick, Jerry, Larry, and Philip, thanks for hanging in there. Thanks too for your kind comments.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Today I started to install the road, and just like Kyle, had a brainstorm to add even more space for the structures. I wasn't happy with the spacing between structures. Making the placement look realistic was becoming a problem, so...
I cut out even more of the lower layout. Here are the before and after shots:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070725135539-55626533.jpeg) (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070725135543-55627152.jpeg)
I'll need to extend the street in the front of the layout and fill in the walls.
From left to right, here are the modules in Phase I in their current state with proposed structures:
The main street (lower) in this module will get a Masonic Lodge, a hotel, a fire station, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070725135607-55633517.jpeg)
These structures are in their respective places on the center module. A road will take up the front edge of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070725135611-556342233.jpeg)
The right module structures are placed in their proposed location. I'll have room for a barnyard, truck, and car parking. Once again a road will follow the front of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-070725135615-556352410.jpeg)
That's it for now. It's time to glue some road down.
Have fun,
mike
That's a lot of great progress Mike.
Did the Amish move it for ya? ;)
Mike, I like that you're now able to add more structures.
Will Fenimore Bros. still fit where it was in the first picture.
Looks like you've got the structures spaced pretty far apart.
Have you tried moving them closer together?
Quote from: Rick on July 07, 2025, 06:10:28 PMMike, I like that you're now able to add more structures.
Will Fenimore Bros. still fit where it was in the first picture.
Looks like you've got the structures spaced pretty far apart.
Have you tried moving them closer together?
Howdy Rick,
Good questions. Fenimore will go somewhere else, but next to the tracks for easy unloading. I just set it across the tracks to get it out of the way.
I'll add more structures to tighten the placement. I was mostly trying to see how they fit between the caprock and the river. The tannery will have vertical tanks on one side and a lean-to shed on the other. The livery stable will have a small corral, too. I hope to fit one more structure in the third module river level... maybe water works. Still thinking about it.
Hope this addresses your comments.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 07, 2025, 03:46:27 PMThat's a lot of great progress Mike.
Thanks Curt. I'm trying. ~mike
Quote from: Philip on July 07, 2025, 06:01:39 PMDid the Amish move it for ya? ;)
Funny Philip, that would have been nice! ~mike
Mike you're making some nice progress!! Better to make the changes now rather than later.
Mike, Howdy,
Great progress. The abutment and bridge look fantastic as do the surrounding structures.
Very well done.
Tom
Good afternoon, folks,
This morning, I was able to begin landscaping the layout. I began with plaster cloth over foam as a base for later applied Sculptamold. Here is a photo of the results.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-110725135130.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
That looks awesome Mike.
Slick! 8)
Mike, nice progress.
When does the sculptamolding start?
Howdy folks,
Thanks for the comments, Curt, Philip, and Rick. I plan on starting the Sculptamold next week. My daughter is taking me on a surprise birthday Sunday and Monday trip, so it will be after that. She does that every year, and it is usually railroad-related.
I plan on working left to right, so the bridge area will get more plaster cloth before I start with Sculptamold.
Have fun,
mike
I will be watching you work your magic with the sculptamold.
Happy Belated Birthday, Mike. Have fun!
Rich
Looking good, Mike. You do excellent work sculpting the foam to get the land forms, the road in particular.
Mike
Looking forward on this works out. So far it looks great great.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Thanks for the kid comments, Rich, Mike, and Jerry.
Have fun,
mike
Hello Mike, I like the picture of your land forms and am looking forward to see what you do with the next steps in your scenery process. Have fun with the messy part.
Howdy folks,
Jeff, thank you for the compliment. I'm looking forward to the next steps, too. ;D
The plaster cloth base for sculptamold on the leftmost land form was the task for today. The abutment and landform will attach to a module in Phase II.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-160725154633.jpeg)
Next, I'll begin work on the opposing abutment.
Have fun,
mike
Great progress Mike.
Yep! 8)
Absolutely!!
Jerry
Howdy foks,
SCULPTAMOLD!
But first, Curt, Rick, Philip, and Jerry, thank you for your kind and encouraging comments.
I finally, after much procrastination, started applying Sculptamold to the layout. I'll need to go over it with coarse sandpaper to knock down some of the protruding plaster and add another coat in some spots. I'm happy how it is going. Here are a few photos of this morning's progress.
The leftmost abutment,
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210725111123-557152485.jpeg)
the road and pads for the structures are next,
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210725111123-557161307.jpeg)
a little further down the Caprock,
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210725111123-55714518.jpeg)
and back to the abutments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-210725111722.jpeg)
The road will have stone embankments in many places. A stone bridge will cross the ravine displayed in the third photo.
After my back rests for a while, I'll put tape over the track and work on the Caprock area.
Have fun,
mike
Looks very good Mike.
Mike, applying Sculptamold was always fun for me and hope it is for you too.
Hello Mike, I can see that you had a lot of fun with the messy part. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Mike, you're off to a great start with the terraforming project.
Nice job Mike even if it is messy.
Looks like you have the hang of it Mike. Even if it's messy your doing a good job.
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Curt, Rick, Jeff, Ron, Jerry, and Larry, thank you for your continued support and suggestions. I certainly appreciate them.
This morning I finished the first coat of Sculptamold on Phase I. After it dries, I'll sand it and fill in any holes I missed.
Here are photos of progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-220725115204-557251233.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-220725115204-557242068.jpeg)
It sure is fun playing with Sculptamold. Brings back the mud pie memories at Grandma's house in the country.
Have fun,
mike
8)
Mike, to see the progress you're making.
Told you it would be fun. ;D
Howdy folks,
Philip and Rick, thanks for following.
Today I started painting on the layout, in between moments at the bench, finishing the scrap car.
Here are the three main colors I will be using and reference photos of Caprock Canyon. The lightest color will be enhanced with white and brown pigments to make it appear a little more tan. The base color is in the middle and is a decent match for the Caprock Canyon and Quiteque soil. The darker color will be for the lower sections of the rock and accents.
Photos of Caprock Canyon Park
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153105-557511262.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153106-557521163.jpeg)
Color swatch of purchased paints.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725152135-557461136.jpeg)
Layout before paint
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153519.jpeg)
One third is painted with the base color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725152135-557471549.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725152136-557482106.jpeg)
That's it for now. Bending over the layout, stippling all that foam is painful on the back.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, nice start on the paint.
A little paint sure makes things come to life. Great start Mike.
Jerry
Great painting start Mike. I didn't realize that you are doing a western themed layout. I'll be following with interest.
Looking great! 8)
Quote from: Rick on July 28, 2025, 06:42:29 PMMike, nice start on the paint.
Thanks for the encouragement. ~mike
Quote from: Jerry on July 28, 2025, 11:26:07 PMA little paint sure makes things come to life. Great start Mike.
Jerry
Jerry, thank you. I agree that paint makes things start looking real. ~mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 29, 2025, 07:05:52 AMGreat painting start Mike. I didn't realize that you are doing a western themed layout. I'll be following with interest.
Curt, thank you for your support. The layout is based on Caprock Canyon in the panhandle of Texas. I love those red tones. ~mike
Quote from: Philip on July 29, 2025, 08:47:28 AMLooking great! 8)
Thanks for your compliment, Philip! ~mike
Mike nice start with the coloring; when finished it should look great.
I hope you can replicate this scenery. Pretty badass!
https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153106-557521163.jpeg (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153106-557521163.jpeg)
Howdy folks,
Quote from: Larry C on July 30, 2025, 06:43:56 AMMike nice start with the coloring; when finished it should look great.
Thank you Larry. ~mike
Quote from: Philip on July 30, 2025, 10:06:07 AMI hope you can replicate this scenery. Pretty badass!
https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153106-557521163.jpeg (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-280725153106-557521163.jpeg)
Indeed, Philip, that mountain will go on the Phase II, taking up the whole left-hand extension. The only difference will be a couple of mines. ~mike
Howdy folks,
I didn't think I would have time to go upstairs today, but I did. Here is a photo of the whole layout painted with the base color. Next will be a wash with water and black acrylic. I am anxious to start planting structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310725113206.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike that's a lot of terracotta color. The washes should really make it pop.
Howdy folks,
Larry, thanks for your support!
The next build for the layout will be the Masonic Lodge. Since it takes up quite a bit of space, I need to build it so I can optimize the placement of all the structures. Many of you know I am a Freemason, so I thought it would be relevant for the layout.
The lodge will be one of the larger buildings on the layout, at 8" deep and 5" wide, with a height of 8". The model is a Rich White IOOF structure, so only the wall castings were available. I'll probably cut the floors, rafters, and roof panels with the laser. The front will get an awning. The IOOF moldings on the front will be swapped for Masonic symbols, and the circle above the cornice hollowed for a backlit Masonic Square and Compasses.
Here is Rich White's build photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310725213029-557771172.jpeg)
I plan to use the same colors and process as I've used on previous stone builds.
Away we go!
Have fun,
mike
I like the base coloring Mike looking forward to the building and the scenery taking place.
The new build should be a really nice one . That's a nice looking building.
Jerry
Nice looking stone building.
Looks like Georgia Clay. :-[ Very much like I've used on my current project. It looks stark at that stage. It will be nice to see buildings sprout and grow!
The Masonic building will be a nice project. Oddly, the Odd Fellows seem not to have much left from what once was a huge group, lots of the interlocking rings on the fascias of old buildings around the country side. There is a fellow in the building business around our area going by Oddfellows Construction.
KS
Mike, congratulations on finishing the base color.
I know you'll do a great job on the Masonic building.
Mike looking forward on how you bring the Lodge to life.
Quote from: friscomike on July 31, 2025, 09:54:22 PMHowdy folks,
Larry, thanks for your support!
The next build for the layout will be the Masonic Lodge. Since it takes up quite a bit of space, I need to build it so I can optimize the placement of all the structures. Many of you know I am a Freemason, so I thought it would be relevant for the layout.
The lodge will be one of the larger buildings on the layout, at 8" deep and 5" wide, with a height of 8". The model is a Rich White IOOF structure, so only the wall castings were available. I'll probably cut the floors, rafters, and roof panels with the laser. The front will get an awning. The IOOF moldings on the front will be swapped for Masonic symbols, and the circle above the cornice hollowed for a backlit Masonic Square and Compasses.
Here is Rich White's build photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310725213029-557771172.jpeg)
I plan to use the same colors and process as I've used on previous stone builds.
Away we go!
Have fun,
mike
Are you planning an interior? I really enjoyed your help with my Masonic Lodge interior.
dave
Good en Mike!
Howdy folks,
Jerry, Curt, Karl, Rick, Larry, Dave, and Philip, thank you so much for following my journey into On30 modeling.
Karl, Georgia clay is a perfect match for the soil in Caprock Canyon. What a shock.
Dave, of course, I'll put an appropriate interior in it. I have yours as an inspiration. Uh, please forgive my rocks for jocks' representation of the southwest landscape. ;)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I had a good day upstairs painting the layout. I used a black wash and three colors of paint. After these layers dry, I'll go back over them with tans and unbleached titanium.
I started with a second coat of black acrylic and water. It's not too visible here, but the cracks and crannies are darker now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-310725113206.jpeg)
Next came the second darkest color and the lightest color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010825175449-55785101.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010825175449-55784199.jpeg)
The aisle side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010825175449-557831684.jpeg)
And the overall look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-010825175451-557861303.jpeg)
Next, I'll begin adding soil to the areas not planned for structures. After that, track painting and wiring hookup.
Have fun,
mike
Great start Mike.
Mike, that looks just like some of the stuff I've seen in my travels.
Looks great!
Howdy folks,
Curt and Rick, thank you for your support.
Today I assembled the Masonic Lodge and added crown molding for floor and roof support. The glue is still drying, and when it does, I'll fill in the gaps in the wall joints. I used epoxy for the main joints and Titebond for the corner reinforcements and crown molding.
All glued up and ready for paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020825124216-55789606.jpeg)
Here is a view of the floor supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-020825124216-557901979.jpeg)
That's it for now.
Have fun,
mike
I used epoxy for the main joints and Titebond for the corner reinforcements and crown molding.
I've used epoxy all around for stuff like this. But I think the main joint is the wall-to-wall joint, so epoxy is the right choice there. That's quite a convex bend in the wall in the top-down view, but it shouldn't be noticeable in the model once built.
dave
Hello Mike, man, you're busy. The layout is coming along very nicely and I like the look of your lodge. Can't wait to see your stone color scheme.
Quote from: deemery on August 02, 2025, 01:46:48 PM I used epoxy for the main joints and Titebond for the corner reinforcements and crown molding.
I've used epoxy all around for stuff like this. But I think the main joint is the wall-to-wall joint, so epoxy is the right choice there. That's quite a convex bend in the wall in the top-down view, but it shouldn't be noticeable in the model once built.
dave
Dave, thanks for your comment. I think the camera exacerbated the bend, although the walls are not perfect. ~mike
Just getting back around, Mke; love the way the layout is coming along. Keep at it. ;)
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry Co.
Howdy folks,
Kyle, thanks for following. Your painting of landscapes and backdrops is a big inspiration for me. Thanks.
No photos today, I painted the interior of the Masonic Lodge pale blue. The exterior is still a bit tacky so will need to wait for it to dry before painting it.
I started with scenery on the layout. I think I'll finish the upper level before starting on the structures and the lower level. I haven't used flocking in a while, so I'm getting the hang of it again. I need to 3D print some succulents for the landscaping, too. Having lots of fun.
Maybe photos tomorrow.
Have fun,
mike
The building looks great Mike. Looking forward to the start of the real scenery!
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Jerry, thank you for the compliment. I'm having so much fun that I keep switching back and forth between the layout and lodge.
Here are a few shots of the lodge. I finalized the color of the windows (Vallejo Union Blue) and painted them in the booth. I had a problem with the Iwata, so I went back to the trusty Paasche. I found the problem in the Iwata, a clogged tip. A couple of turns with the reamer fixed the problem.)
The windows and doors. Glazing will be next for them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050825154711-558041327.jpeg)
Powder blue for the interior walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050825154711-55805272.jpeg)
Blue is a popular Masonic color, so blue it was the the doors, interior, and windows.
I'm waiting for a new can of khaki paint to arrive. I didn't realize I was so low in the old can. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and I can put the basecoat on the lodge.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
I experimented with scenery today, watched several videos of Caprock Canyon (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uQwrQSOclE), and decided how to landscape the layout. There will be grass, mostly brown with a hint of green, and a lot of shrubs. Not so many trees other than mesquite.
All the scenery materials are on the layout and ready to go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050825154606-5580282.jpeg)
Experiment with scenery materials for the caprock area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050825154606-55803607.jpeg)
After I photographed this area, I put down ballast on the turnouts. When it dries, I'll take a photo.
Have fun,
mike
Mike just love those colors for the lodge!!
And the scenery you're sure off to a great start!!
Jerry
Howdy folks,
Jerry, as always, thank you for your support. I appreciate it.
Here is a photo of ballast on a turnout. Since it was a test only, it hasn't been glued in place and the edges tidied. I need to fill the wiring hole first and test the electrical connection. I know I should have done that before ballasting, but I was anxious to see what it was going to look like.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-050825194246.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Mike, nice interior and door/window color on the lodge.
That's a great looking skatepark.
I will definitely have to remember that place if I'm ever in the area again.
Great start on the scenery.
Mike that's a really nice shade of blue for the lodge. The scenery start is looking really good as well; should be a very nice looking layout when finished. The ballast looks good the way it is; you don't always have to make the edges in a straight line.
Nice start on the ballast Mike. I like the way it looks just as it is.
Jerry
You cold swear a groundhog lives there! It looks great BTW!
Nice color ballast? Brand?
Later, Philip
Quote from: Philip on August 07, 2025, 09:53:52 AMYou cold swear a groundhog lives there! It looks great BTW!
Nice color ballast? Brand?
Later, Philip
Howdy Philip,
Thanks for the comment. The ballast is from
Arizona Rock and Mineral Company,
#1502 UPRR & BNSF St. Louis, MO, and
#1503 Mainline Ballast, same roads, mixed. I was surprised it was so large for HO, but it is perfect for me.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Rick, Larry, and Jerry, thank you for following and sharing your thoughts.
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
Today I finished connecting the track feeder wires to the power bus beneath the layout. The accessory bus is in place, too. The frog juicer connections are next, but not today. Looking up and installing the wires has not been fun, and I need a rest ;D .
Have fun,
mike
Remember no pain no gain! :o
Howdy folks,
Philip, indeed! Thanks for the comment.
I painted the track with a wash of alcohol and driftwood pigment, followed by A/I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-100825173212.jpeg)
The ballast ran out before I finished, but I placed an order.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-100825172922.jpeg)
While waiting on the ballast order, I'll switch to the Masonic Lodge build.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, ties and ballast look good.
Mike nice job on the track and ballast; starting to look like a railroad; enjoy.
Great job on the track coloring and weathering Mike.
Looks great Mike!!
Jerry
8) Splendid! 8) I suggest a small fan for quick drying.
Philip
Howdy folks,
Rick, Larry, Curt, Jerry, and Philip, thank you for the compliments and encouragement. :)
Today I started painting the back of the lodge, since it won't be as easily viewed. I'm still deciding on the final look.
A base coat of camo khaki paint with a black-brown wash was applied before coloring stones.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-110825132251-558431661.jpeg)
Random stones were painted using the same colors as the rest of the structures. A layer of pigment was dry-brushed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-110825132251-558441731.jpeg)
I'm trying to keep the color palette compatible with the region's earth color and available stones.
On to the next side...
Have fun,
mike
Howdy folks,
It's time to start planting some structures and creating some scenes. The depot area will be the first up; after all, workers are required to complete the other structures. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-110825145832-558461591.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Nice work on the stone wall Mike. Your off to a great start with placing the buildings.
Jerry
Good looking scene Mike.
Mike, that's a good layout for that scene.
8)
Hello Mike, I like the stone coloring on the lodge walls and with some structures next to the nicely ballasted track, your layout is really starting to come together.
Yup, looking real good Mike, enjoy.
Howdy folks,
Jerry, Curt, Rick, Philip, Jeff, and Larry, I certainly appreciate your comments.
My kids are converging here this afternoon, but I managed a few hours at the bench. I have three windows left to cut glazing. I worked on the exterior wall colors and am getting close to finishing. Here are a few photos that depict the current coloring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150825115318-558511451.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-150825115318-55852692.jpeg)
In trying to achieve a homogeneous look, the building lost some of its stone coloring, so I may go back and touch up a few with white, grey, ochre, black, and terra cotta.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
I've been away to long from this fantastic build thread. Great progress and I love the overall look of the stone structures and earth features.
Tom
Mike, your stone painting is excellent.
Mike,
Somehow I missed this build.
You are doing a wonderful job so far, especially the stone coloring, which is great.
I like the earthy coloring. Keep at it, looks good.
Rich
Mike great job on the stone coloring; this one's going to be a real winner!!!!
;D ;D ;D
Mike,
The build is coming along nicely. The colouring has that Colorado feel to it. Well done.
Looking good Mike ;) ;) - I too like the color choice :) :)
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry Co.
Hello Mike, your stone walls have a very natural look to them, well done sir.
Howdy folks,
Tom, Rich, Rick, Karl, Ron, Kyle, and Jeff, thank you for your comments and encouragement.
Today I finished the upper floor and ceiling, plus the ceiling on the first floor of the lodge structure. The ceilings are wood, and the second floor has the typical Masonic Lodge checkered floor. The second floor has rafters on the ceiling that connect to the crown molding that surrounds the room.
The image on the left is the checkered floor on the second floor (looks like a loose, discarded trimming, and the image on the right is the ceiling of the second floor. The rafters won't be glued to the ceiling until the roof is mounted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-200825165039-558702449.jpeg)
Next up will be wiring the lights.
Have fun,
mike
Very nice Mike.
Mike, looks good especially with your finger being cut.
Hope it doesn't hurt much.
Your doing great for a guy with a wounded finger!!
Jerry
Sorry about the cut Mike. Looks bloodless which is good!
Philip
Nicely done Mike; hope the finner heals quickly.
Mike, Howdy,
Very nice job on the track and ballast. Looking forward to more.
Tom
Howdy folks,
Curt, Rick, Jerry, Philip, Larry, and Tom, thank you so much for following the builds and leaving your comments. They provide much encouragement for this old guy.
This is a photo-less update, but photos should follow tomorrow.
I finished ballasting the layout today, YAY. In testing the track with cars, I found a turnout where the wheels don't pass through well. I need to check the gauge. If I apply pressure to one side of the car as it passes through the turnout, it goes okay; otherwise, it picks the point. I noticed Micro Engineering On30 turnouts don't leave a large gap at the points and stock rail...
In addition to the Masonic Lodge and track ballasting, I've been working on the layout wiring. I bought a cheapo shelf (Nightstand at $26) with three shelves and a drawer that fits beneath the layout in the center to host the DCC equipment. Another task is to connect all the frogs to the Hex frog juicer. That involves floor work, looking up at the layout bottom. YUK. I am anxious to start running trains on the layout as is, and start construction work on Phase II, the end turnaround modules. I think I'll try JMRI Ops instead of my favorite ProTrak for switchlist operations.
As for the Masonic Lodge building, the floors and roof are finished. I think I'll add drains and scuppers to the sides of the exterior walls.
My technique for hiding resistors and wiring is to use a cabinet, ala Homer's Place (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=179147). The "electrical cabinet" for the lodge is almost finished.
For the interior, I made the three platforms for the lodge officers and will 3D print their chairs and podiums soon. The items for 3D printing for the lodge are:
- Master's Chair with jewel emblem
- Senior Warden's Chair jewel emblem
- Junior Warden's Chair jewel emblem
- Podiums for the three officers
- Altar
- Secretary's desk
- Treasurer's desk
- Two Columns
- The letter G
- Chairs along the sides
Additionally, I'll have photos of the Past Masters on the walls, as is the practice in most lodges. A painting of George Washington will adorn the wall behind the Master's chair. Dave (Deemery) depicted a Masonic Lodge in one of his builds. It is an inspiration.
That's it for now.
Have fun,
mike
Here's my rough approximation of a Masonic Hall:
IMG_0331.jpeg
The wall posters came from period Masonic posters I found on the Internet.
The scene is shallow, maybe 1/2" deep, it fits in a 3d flat.
IMG_0336.jpeg
dave
Quote from: deemery on August 26, 2025, 06:29:13 PMHere's my rough approximation of a Masonic Hall:
IMG_0331.jpeg
The wall posters came from period Masonic posters I found on the Internet.
The scene is shallow, maybe 1/2" deep, it fits in a 3d flat.
IMG_0336.jpeg
dave
Really nice work by Dave. I looked for the post to reference it and couldn't find it. Thanks for posting, Dave. ~mike
Great detailing Mike. Does the "G" stand for God (if you are allowed to say)?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 26, 2025, 07:05:15 PMGreat detailing Mike. Does the "G" stand for God (if you are allowed to say)?
Curt.
For Masons, the "G" stands for God and Geometry. God the Architect of all things.
I'm not a Mason but my grandfather was a past Worshipful Grand Master.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 26, 2025, 07:05:15 PMGreat detailing Mike. Does the "G" stand for God (if you are allowed to say)?
Howdy Curt, it does and Geometry, too. ~mike
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 26, 2025, 08:16:07 PMQuote from: PRR Modeler on August 26, 2025, 07:05:15 PMGreat detailing Mike. Does the "G" stand for God (if you are allowed to say)?
Curt.
For Masons, the "G" stands for God and Geometry. God the Architect of all things.
I'm not a Mason but my grandfather was a past Worshipful Grand Master.
Tom
Howdy Tom, I should have read all the posts before replying. You are correct. WOW on your Grandfather. Was he in Florida? ~mike
Quote from: friscomike on August 26, 2025, 08:21:34 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on August 26, 2025, 08:16:07 PMQuote from: PRR Modeler on August 26, 2025, 07:05:15 PMGreat detailing Mike. Does the "G" stand for God (if you are allowed to say)?
Curt.
For Masons, the "G" stands for God and Geometry. God the Architect of all things.
I'm not a Mason but my grandfather was a past Worshipful Grand Master.
Tom
Howdy Tom, I should have read all the posts before replying. You are correct. WOW on your Grandfather. Was he in Florida? ~mike
Mike,
Yes, in Orlando. I don't remember the Lodge # but I've seen his photo on the wall.
Tom
Howdy folks,
This post is about structure placement on the BCMC layout. The first photo is of the layout without structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270825115225-559041052.jpeg)
The next is a first pass at structure location.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270825115226-559061298.jpeg)
The bare area on the left, next to Cowles, is reserved for future structures. The center scene is dominated by the livery stable, which, in hindsight, is too large.
Here are a few close-ups of the structures, left to right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270825120029-559102337.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270825120029-55912126.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-270825120029-559112125.jpeg)
In previous posts, a notional placement was pictured, but I am trying to hone in on the final placement.
Your perspectives and comments are most welcome.
Have fun,
mike
I find it's best to position stuff, then come back the next day to see if I still like the positions. Of course, that's "analysis paralysis," but I usually end up liking the revised layout more.
By the way, the Masonic emblem at the top of my structure came from a charm I got on Etsy. It was too big to glue directly, but I scanned it, played a bit with size and lighting, and then printed & glued it into place. I was quite happy with the result. (If you look carefully, you can see the loop at the top of the dividers for the charm...)
dave
The layout looks great Mike; I agree....position the stuff and come back later to see if it still "floats yer boat" ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) Keep it up......Love the Masonic Lodge, my dad was a Mason, and I think my younger brother is also... :)
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry Co.
Mike everything looks fantastic. I'll be honest I wasn't sure I liked the color and shape of the background hills initially (I always try to say something nice) but it has really come together and like I said it looks fantastic.
Was only in a Masonic lodge once, took my father for his last meeting before he disappeared into Alzheimer's. They made me sit in the hallway. Had an uncle in FL that was an upper level in the Shriners.
BTW if you can't say God here. I don't want to be here.
Your work, Mike, is amazing.
KSinGODwe trust. ;)
Mike those are some mighty fine looking structures. A agree with the others; place the buildings then come back the next day and see if you still like the position they're in.
Howdy folks,
Dave, Kyle, Curt, Karl, and Larry, thank you for your comments and support.
Work on the lodge is progressing slowly. Here is a mini-update.
Connecting and running the fine enamel-coated wire has been a chore. The dilemma of where to put the LED resistors was solved by putting them in a small 1.25" high cabinet. The wires connect through the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-290825132237-559142393.jpeg)
The ceilings have beams that run parallel to the front. They are T-shaped with the ends rounded to fit the ceiling cove molding. Depicted here are two beams with lights. I'll leave the remaining beams out until the lodge is populated with Masonic accouterments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/586-290825132236-55913854.jpeg)
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: kyle creel on August 27, 2025, 02:46:00 PMThe layout looks great Mike; I agree....position the stuff and come back later to see if it still "floats yer boat" ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) Keep it up......Love the Masonic Lodge, my dad was a Mason, and I think my younger brother is also... :)
KYLE CREEL
G&D Ry Co.
Howdy Kyle, It's neat how many of us have ancestors who were Masons. My Dad and Grandfather were Masons. Thanks for sharing the comment. ~mike
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on August 27, 2025, 07:03:10 PMWas only in a Masonic lodge once, took my father for his last meeting before he disappeared into Alzheimer's. They made me sit in the hallway. Had an uncle in FL that was an upper level in the Shriners.
BTW if you can't say God here. I don't want to be here.
Your work, Mike, is amazing.
KSinGODwe trust. ;)
Howdy Karl, that's neat that you were able to take your Father for his last meeting. Hope the hallway was comfortable. ;) To be a Shriner, you must be a plain ole' Master Mason. ~mike
WOW Mike you sure are moving long. I like the idea of placement before planting!!
Jerry
Everything looks great Mike. The wooden floor and lights really stand out. Smart idea for the resistor location.
Just caught up with your builds, great work Mike..... 8)
Mike, the structure layout looks good.
It's been a few days now, does it still look good to you?
Nice job hiding the wires.