I need to start building structures for downtown Tahope. It may be uptown Tahope depending on your upbringing but for me downtown is where more of the older structures will be and they can't all be wood. But I digress.
I didn't want to build this as part of the layout thread due to the fact I have plenty of material to show there.
I purchased this kit new in 1982 or '83 for The large sum of $39.85. The kit was Designed and the Pattern Work was done by Bob Lunde. Not sure how many Magnuson kits he did, but I'm sure there were several.
If you've never built an old cast resin kit, you may pick up some tricks here. Left in the box, as mine has been over the past 40+ years, the resin walls will settle and warp slightly or terribly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123247-548172087.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123248-548181898.jpeg)
Back in a few.
Magnuson always tried to pack the kits so the parts didn't touch each other. I believe this was due to the sticky mold release agent didn't cause the parts to stick to each other and thus hard to separate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123248-54819563.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123248-548202080.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123248-54821265.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123327-54822896.jpeg)
After 40+ years in the box, the walls were all still very tacky/sticky.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123327-548232138.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123327-548241461.jpeg)
I have a couple old classic Magnuson kits in the stash, as well as several I've built/bashed over the years. I'll be looking forward to hearing your tricks.
One trick I do have to contribute, though: To flatten warped casting, get a honed stone (marble) tile (not ceramic). Put the casting on the tile, and put both into the oven set to about 170. "Bake" for 30 minutes, then let sit for another 30 minutes or so.
dave
And of course, every wall was slightly warped. One more than the other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123327-54825343.jpeg)
The question is how do you unwarp a warped resin wall section? There have been several opinions on how to do this over the years and I didn't like any of them. At one time is was suggested to boil the walls and then lay flat to dry. Nope, not gonna happen. Another "idigit" idea some brain trust came up with was to put the walls in a microwave. I know, I know, nothing to say here that is family friendly.
I've done it two different ways and they have worked pretty well for me.
I let the walls sit in the sun for about 20-30 minutes and then place them flat with weights until cool.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123327-54826983.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on March 27, 2025, 12:52:39 PMI have a couple old classic Magnuson kits in the stash, as well as several I've built/bashed over the years. I'll be looking forward to hearing your tricks.
One trick I do have to contribute, though: To flatten warped casting, get a honed stone (marble) tile (not ceramic). Put the casting on the tile, and put both into the oven set to about 170. "Bake" for 30 minutes, then let sit for another 30 minutes or so.
dave
Dave,
That's a good one as well. However, I've heard that different manufacturers use different cast resins and not all of them are oven friendly.
Tom
Dave mentioned the oven trick, although I've never tried that one. I'll show you here the other method I've used on severely warped resin walls.
The worst case I've ever encountered was the Franz Faulk Brewery kit manufactured by Master Creations. Those walls were so severely warped I found it necessary to epoxy square brass tubing to the inside to remove the warp.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325131804-548312327.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325131804-548321351.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325131804-548341748.jpeg)
It took a few months but I did finish the build. I made it an abandoned brewery.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325132140-548351834.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325132141-548362484.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325132307-548371081.jpeg)
Well now, this should be interesting.
I'll be here in the front row...hope you have some diet pepsi to pass around
terry
Okay, back to Merchant's Row I.
I next cleaned the extra resin flash out of the windows using a small metal file. I also trimmed flash off the sides of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123402-548271102.jpeg)
Done for today on this.
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on March 27, 2025, 01:26:25 PMWell now, this should be interesting.
I'll be here in the front row...hope you have some diet pepsi to pass around
terry
Terry,
Welcome to the party. Not to worry, I have plenty of Diet Pepsi and H2O for those that don't know what they are missing. 8)
Tom
Great start Tom. Hopefully you won't need the square brass tubing. I'll definitely be following.
Hi Tom, I love these old Magnuson kits!
I have built some of them in the past including this one, and even have a few more to build in my stash.
I did not know about sitting the walls on a flat sufface in the sun trick.
Like Dave I have placed mine in the oven, to flatten out the walls.
I even picked up one of their kits last week at a train show for 10 bucks "Wanglies Dept. store"
You did a beautiful job on that Master Creations brewery!
I am certain you will do an equally beautiful job on this one as well.
Greg
Tom, I've never built a Magnuson kit.
It will be interesting to see how you go about putting it together.
Putting the castings out in the FL. sun is almost the same as putting them in the oven. 8)
Have building it and I'll be here to watch.
Tom, I see you found your next project, and it's an interesting one to boot.
I build one of them years ago and the thing I remember most about it was how sticky it was. It did turn out to be great build in the end. Looking forward to seeing how you go through the process.
You did a great job on the Master Creation Brewery.
Howdy Tom,
The brewery is an excellent model, well done. I'm looking forward to the chronicle of the Merchants Row build.
Have fun,
mike
P.S., I put resin castings in a hot bathtub for 30 minutes or so, then out to a dead flat surface. There are many ways to flatten resin.
Looking forward to this build Tom.
Question how do you get rid of the sticky??
Jerry
Looking forward to seeing these builds.
Look very similar to the DPM kits, of which I have built many in N scale, so will be interested in your techniques Tom.
I know George Sellios also used a lot of Magnuson kit of the F&SM. Rod Stewart too.
So you're in good company.
;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 27, 2025, 02:38:10 PMGreat start Tom. Hopefully you won't need the square brass tubing. I'll definitely be following.
Curt,
Thanks Butty, but past experience tells me that square brass tubing is in my future.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on March 27, 2025, 05:15:41 PMHi Tom, I love these old Magnuson kits!
I have built some of them in the past including this one, and even have a few more to build in my stash.
I did not know about sitting the walls on a flat sufface in the sun trick.
Like Dave I have placed mine in the oven, to flatten out the walls.
I even picked up one of their kits last week at a train show for 10 bucks "Wanglies Dept. store"
You did a beautiful job on that Master Creations brewery!
I am certain you will do an equally beautiful job on this one as well.
Greg
Greg,
Thank you for the compliment on the brewery. That kit was done some 12+ years ago. I tried to find the thread as it was done on this forum but apparently it is no longer on the server.
Wanglie's is a neat kit and you got a bargain for sure.
I have more comments on warped wall I'll mention later in the build.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 27, 2025, 07:10:25 PMTom, I've never built a Magnuson kit.
It will be interesting to see how you go about putting it together.
Putting the castings out in the FL. sun is almost the same as putting them in the oven. 8)
Have building it and I'll be here to watch.
Rick,
If you've never built one you may consider yourself fortunate. I've never built one that didn't need to be "fixed" to build.
I may try the oven trick on the next Magnuson but this one is already way down the road.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 27, 2025, 07:31:56 PMTom, I see you found your next project, and it's an interesting one to boot.
I build one of them years ago and the thing I remember most about it was how sticky it was. It did turn out to be great build in the end. Looking forward to seeing how you go through the process.
You did a great job on the Master Creation Brewery.
Ron,
Yes, this is one of the next projects but not the one I wanted to start. I figured this one would take less time.
I've already had to brace the walls on this one.
Thanks for the compliment on the brewery. That one was a real pain in the rear to build. Especially the corner tower. Nothing fit at all. Lots of squadron putty was used.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 27, 2025, 08:06:03 PMHowdy Tom,
The brewery is an excellent model, well done. I'm looking forward to the chronicle of the Merchants Row build.
Have fun,
mike
P.S., I put resin castings in a hot bathtub for 30 minutes or so, then out to a dead flat surface. There are many ways to flatten resin.
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much, I appreciate the comment. I tried the tub method but had a hard time controlling the hot water.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 27, 2025, 11:05:15 PMLooking forward to this build Tom.
Question how do you get rid of the sticky??
Jerry
Jerry,
Happy to have you follow along.
I used Dove dish soap, warm water and a soft toothbrush. On this one I had to wash the walls three times to get the sticky off.
Tom
Quote from: robert goslin on March 28, 2025, 05:42:29 AMLooking forward to seeing these builds.
Look very similar to the DPM kits, of which I have built many in N scale, so will be interested in your techniques Tom.
I know George Sellios also used a lot of Magnuson kit of the F&SM. Rod Stewart too.
So you're in good company.
;)
Rob,
Happy you are on the bandwagon for this one. DPM bought the rights to a few of the DPM molds and released them in plastic.
When I visited George back in 2016 he said he used many many parts of Magnuson kits for his layout.
Tom
As an alternative to dishwashing soap, try a 10% solution of "Super Clean" (from the automotive cleaner section of WalMart and other stores). That's worked well to clean everything I've put into it, and it won't hurt the resin.
dave
I mentioned yesterday that I set wall sections in the sun to get warm and then lay them flat. The weights were left on until the walls remained flat.
This morning I can out and the walls reverted back to the way they were, WARPED! Dang it to H++L!
I'm curious if any of ya'll that soaked in hot water, microwaved or what ever method used -- did the walls revert back to being warped?
Many of the Magnuson kits have sidewalks for the fronts of the structures. There is a ridge under the storefront where the sidewalk fits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123402-54828349.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123402-548291803.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on March 28, 2025, 04:02:18 PMAs an alternative to dishwashing soap, try a 10% solution of "Super Clean" (from the automotive cleaner section of WalMart and other stores). That's worked well to clean everything I've put into it, and it won't hurt the resin.
dave
Dave,
Great tip, I'll try that on the next build of a Magnuson kit.
Tom
The one problem I have with the Magnuson sidewalks is that they measures just over 13 scale inches high. Now my grandmother going to town to shop won't want to step up 13 inches from the street to the side walk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270325123402-548302121.jpeg)
I show you later how I got around not using the sidewalk sections and filled the fronts under the stores.
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
Walls becoming flat, then curling again as they cool sounds like the temperature didn't get quite hot enough. Do you have a remote-reading IR thermometer? Put a wall out the next sunny morning and see how hot it is when it flattens. Then see if you can make it a few degrees warmer. Maybe on a black metal surface? You'll probably have to keep an eye on it.
Tom, to be safe, try the sidewalks first in Super Clean. If something goes wrong, you're not out a core part.
And it's clear you're expected to raise the street levels to reduce the height of the sidewalks... ;D
dave
I started with the left corner of the structure when gluing the walls together. This, to me, was the critical corner to get correct at 90 degrees.
The two wall sections have 45 degrees angle cuts on the ends.
I used a large weight with the 90 degree corner of the weight on the inside. I then pushed the two walls together until I had a tight fit. I then carefully added more weights to the outside to hold the walls in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152321-548431195.jpeg)
I also used a metal square to make sure it was correct prior to adding the 5 min. epoxy.
Notice the broken piece on the top plate? It apparently got broken when demolding as the broken piece wasn't in the box.
I'll cover my fix later in the thread.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152321-54842323.jpeg)
Quote from: jbvb on March 28, 2025, 04:32:50 PMWalls becoming flat, then curling again as they cool sounds like the temperature didn't get quite hot enough. Do you have a remote-reading IR thermometer? Put a wall out the next sunny morning and see how hot it is when it flattens. Then see if you can make it a few degrees warmer. Maybe on a black metal surface? You'll probably have to keep an eye on it.
James,
I'll try that on the next Magnuson build. I'm past the warping now as the walls have been braced with brass stock.
When I did remove them from the sun, they were very hot and pliable. I don't have one of those things you mentioned.
Tom
I used clothes pins to hold the upper corners together when the epoxy was applied.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152321-54844900.jpeg)
Another trick I've learned over the years when gluing resin walls together, is to use paper where the weight is. When the epoxy is dry, it is much easier to cut the paper off vs. prying the weight off the wall. This is just in case the epoxy runs down to the weight.8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152321-54845127.jpeg)
Once the epoxy was cured. I removed the weight and paper and added more epoxy to the lower portion of the wall.
I used the same method on the other end wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152358-548471151.jpeg)
Dinner bell, back later.
Remote-reading IR thermometers seem to be $15-25 except Home Despot is advertising one for $9.89. Cheaper ones are less accurate, but in modeling applications you're usually looking for a temperature difference rather than a reading accurate to 0.5 degree. I got mine maybe 20 years ago to check oven temperatures, still works.
Quote from: jbvb on March 28, 2025, 05:06:29 PMRemote-reading IR thermometers seem to be $15-25 except Home Despot is advertising one for $9.89. Cheaper ones are less accurate, but in modeling applications you're usually looking for a temperature difference rather than a reading accurate to 0.5 degree. I got mine maybe 20 years ago to check oven temperatures, still works.
James,
I'll definitely look into one of them. I bake brass locos in the oven at 170 and it would be nice to make sure it is in fact 170.
Thanks very much for sharing.
Tom
The two end walls were epoxied and then came the rear wall section.
It fit correctly but you can see a slight leaning out on the left and bulging on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152358-548491930.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152358-54850509.jpeg)
Just like bowling, I need to constantly tell myself "bowling is fun" and "model building is fun"!
Remote reading thermometers are really useful for roasting, smoking, and grilling, too :-)
dave
The side edges of both the side wall have very small brick patterns on them. Thinking ahead of the possibility of epoxy oozing out I decided to take a safe approach to gluing the walls.
I epoxied brass stock flush to both rear ends on the back wall. As I was at it I also added a horizontal brass to keep the rear wall straight, just in case.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152358-548512165.jpeg)
Stayed low here to avoid blocking the window. However, I could have taken it up all the way and covered the window black from the inside.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152420-548522468.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on March 28, 2025, 05:25:01 PMRemote reading thermometers are really useful for roasting, smoking, and grilling, too :-)
dave
Dave,
I'm remotely getting the idea it will be a neat new tool for me to use. ;D
Tom
I spread the epoxy to the inside edges of the brass stock and pressed the rear wall in place.
I had to use my long Quick Grips to hold the walls while the epoxy set.
Again, the paper protects my cutting pad.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280325152420-548531069.jpeg)
Done for today.
Wow Tom,
You've done a terrific job assembling the walls. Glad you were able to straighten the walls.
You've built both, which do you prefer, plaster or resin castings?
Have fun,
mike
Great progress Tom. Warped walls are always an issue with older resin kits.
After heating, sometimes they just revert back to being warped. The plastic has a kind of memory.
Bracing seems to be the only solution.
To paraphrase Maxwell Smart:- A warped wall is a fools frustration.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 28, 2025, 05:32:15 PMI'm remotely getting the idea it will be a neat new tool for me to use. ;D
I've had one for years, you wont regret it! I haven't used mine for modeling, but once you get one, you will discover all kinds of uses.
Great start, Tom. I'm learning a lot about these old Magnuson kits. I have a couple in the stash and these tips will be useful if I ever get around to them.
Jeff
Tom great start and glad you managed to get the walls straight. A good tutorial on how it's done.
Jerry
Tom, you had to put a lot of effort into getting those walls straight.
But, as usual, it was all worth it.
Hope the rest of it goes together easier.
Thanks for showing us what you did.
Great job so far Tom. You show these old kits still have a life with the proper preparation. What brand epoxy do you use?
Looking good Tom..... 8)
Is this a new building for Tahope or will it go on the 3rd level? :)
Quote from: friscomike on March 28, 2025, 06:24:22 PMWow Tom,
You've done a terrific job assembling the walls. Glad you were able to straighten the walls.
You've built both, which do you prefer, plaster or resin castings?
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment. The walls were time consuming but turn out well.
I like both plaster and resin. They each have different ways to prep and paint but I must say, I prefer the resin over the plaster.
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: IWannaRetire on March 28, 2025, 07:50:00 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on March 28, 2025, 05:32:15 PMI'm remotely getting the idea it will be a neat new tool for me to use. ;D
I've had one for years, you wont regret it! I haven't used mine for modeling, but once you get one, you will discover all kinds of uses.
Mark,
I'll for sure get one. I can imagine many uses and will enjoy testing it out
Not sure what part of Illinois you are from but I spent many summers at my mother's family farm in Vandalia.
Tom
Quote from: robert goslin on March 28, 2025, 07:30:23 PMGreat progress Tom. Warped walls are always an issue with older resin kits.
After heating, sometimes they just revert back to being warped. The plastic has a kind of memory.
Bracing seems to be the only solution.
To paraphrase Maxwell Smart:- A warped wall is a fools frustration.
Rob,
Thank you kind sir. I'm sure I'll have to brace all the rest of the cast resin walls in the other old Magnuson kits. No problem, just take more time in the build.
I've also had to brace a few plastic walls.
This hoppy is great, we brace wood walls to prevent warping and brace cast resin walls to unwarp them.
Maxwell had a lot of great one liners.
Tom
The walls were all epoxied together and then I washed the entire structure in the laundry sink using Simple Green. This process not only cleaned the resin it also removed the stickiness.
The sticky mold release agent made the walls look darker. They are much whiter now.
NOTE: The roof isn't glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152132-548631505.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152133-548651540.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152133-548662342.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152133-54867392.jpeg)
Here is how I fixed the broken corner on the second floor top plate.
I started by carefully filing the broken piece at a 90 degree angle to the none broken piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152133-548681860.jpeg)
The thickness of the top plate is 2 scale inches. I turned the building on it's roof and made sure it was level with the metal sqare on the bottom as shown. I took a 2X12 and fit it in the broken out section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152214-54869296.jpeg)
I then trimmed the 2X12 with the board edge on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152214-548701841.jpeg)
I then repeated the process using a scale 2X6 and trimmed it as I did the 2X12. I removed the 2X6 piece and using a tooth pick added a tiny bit of epoxy in the corner on top of the 2X12 and then used the point of a #11 blade to place the cut 2X6 on top of the 2X12.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152214-54871865.jpeg)
When the epoxy was dry, I turned the building over and lightly sanded the edges of each side.
Top view -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152214-54872169.jpeg)
Side view -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325152215-54873336.jpeg)
The building is square and vertically correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325154841-5487546.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325154841-54876494.jpeg)
The photo above shows what looks like the wall isn't flush with the corner. An optical illusion I guess as it is flush to the corner wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290325154841-54877855.jpeg)
Done for today. Up next is primer and painting. I'll also go over some roof stuff.
I've put together many of the plastic HO Merchant Row series kits from Walthers. I even drove to Galena, Illinois and Darlington, Wi, where supposedly many of the building ideas came from. I wanted color ideas? But I've never built a Magnuson kit. I think I'm glad. Great tutorial, thank you.
The use of the brass is a new one for me for bracing as I have always used the Evergreen styrene or self cut wood strips. I do have quite an inventory of brass channel and tubing that I've no idea what to use it on. But, there is a scratch paper mill being started and now I know what to use. An extra thank you for that.
TomO
Tom, great fix on the broken piece.
Tom,
You have been busy, All the walls look true and square to me, makes it worth all the effort it took to get them there.
I bought a infrared thermometer laser temperature gun years ago when I got into 3d printing and needed something to verify the heated bed temperature. since then I've found a thousand other uses for it.
Quote from: TomO/Tloc on March 29, 2025, 04:32:55 PMI've put together many of the plastic HO Merchant Row series kits from Walthers. I even drove to Galena, Illinois and Darlington, Wi, where supposedly many of the building ideas came from. I wanted color ideas? But I've never built a Magnuson kit. I think I'm glad. Great tutorial, thank you.
The use of the brass is a new one for me for bracing as I have always used the Evergreen styrene or self cut wood strips. I do have quite an inventory of brass channel and tubing that I've no idea what to use it on. But, there is a scratch paper mill being started and now I know what to use. An extra thank you for that.
TomO
Tom,
Thank you and happy to have you along on this adventure. Speaking of color ideas, I have no idea what to paint these.
Happy to have some new tricks of modeling shared, I've certainly picked up my share from others.
Again, thank you and you are very welcome.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 30, 2025, 10:06:47 AMTom,
You have been busy, All the walls look true and square to me, makes it worth all the effort it took to get them there.
I bought a infrared thermometer laser temperature gun years ago when I got into 3d printing and needed something to verify the heated bed temperature. since then I've found a thousand other uses for it.
Ron,
I went to Lowes this morning but didn't have time to check them out. I will get one though.
Thank you for the compliment on the resin wall fix.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 29, 2025, 07:44:23 PMTom, great fix on the broken piece.
Rick,
Thank you very much my friend, it was an easy fix but necessary.
Tom
That really looks nice. Great job on the corner and getting the building square.
Jerry
Dang Tom!!! I miss a few days going thru the different sub-forums and you sneak one in on me.
Great start to the build and can always count on you for usual problem fixes. I'll be keeping an eye on this one.
Quote from: Jerry on March 30, 2025, 10:30:37 AMThat really looks nice. Great job on the corner and getting the building square.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on March 30, 2025, 11:41:39 AMDang Tom!!! I miss a few days going thru the different sub-forums and you sneak one in on me.
Great start to the build and can always count on you for usual problem fixes. I'll be keeping an eye on this one.
Larry,
Sorry 'bout that my friend. The fix on the corner was an easy one.
Happy to have you following along on the journey.
Tom
The roof for Merchant's Row is one sold piece with details cast into the roof.
It also slopes to the rear very slightly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145243-54878823.jpeg)
The front portion of the roof is very thick. There are five businesses in Merchant's Row and the roof levels differ for each one. This is why you see different thicknesses.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145243-548792234.jpeg)
The rear of the wall is much thinner but there are also a couple of different thicknesses.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145243-548801067.jpeg)
I mentioned in an earlier post that there is an area on the front and side where the cast sidewalk fits under the store fronts.
The Magnuson sidewalk is too thick and honestly, looks out of place when attached to the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145243-548812469.jpeg)
Here is what I did to cover this area. I took scale 2X12s and glued them together making on 4X12. I then glued the 4X12 where the sidewalk was to be placed.
I already did the front but here is how I did the side, same as the front.
I used clothes pins to hold the 4X12 in place until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145243-548821358.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145323-54883475.jpeg)
I then cut the 4X12 at about a 45 degree angle. It doesn't have to be exact and I'll explain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145324-548841744.jpeg)
After making the cut, I reversed the cut angle and placed it against the portion of the 4X12 as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145324-548851351.jpeg)
As you can see the angles are perfect. I didn't do to well in geometry but I did learn enough to figure opposite angles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325152149-548921401.jpeg)
After trimming the 4X12 at the correct angles to the board. I placed the building on a piece of white paper and traced the outside of the three sides.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325152149-548931899.jpeg)
Back later this afternoon, need to help Pam with something.
A while back I think you mentioned colors. Here's a thought for the brick: Prime a brick color, then apply a whitewash that looks like painted brick that's failing.
dave
Gee, Tom.
I go away for the weekend and you're already at page 6! Looking good! I must say - in my experience with Magnuson/ Scale Structure kits - this is one of the better ones! When faced with really warped walls I often use a piece of 1.5mm styrene glued by its edge to the warped wall. I can then cut this as wide as I think is necessary to hold the wall straight. Indeed, you can make it the entire floor area if wanted, and make the back removable.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: deemery on March 30, 2025, 03:46:14 PMA while back I think you mentioned colors. Here's a thought for the brick: Prime a brick color, then apply a whitewash that looks like painted brick that's failing.
dave
Dave,
That is a good technique and I've used it before.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on March 30, 2025, 04:13:35 PMGee, Tom.
I go away for the weekend and you're already at page 6! Looking good! I must say - in my experience with Magnuson/ Scale Structure kits - this is one of the better ones! When faced with really warped walls I often use a piece of 1.5mm styrene glued by its edge to the warped wall. I can then cut this as wide as I think is necessary to hold the wall straight. Indeed, you can make it the entire floor area if wanted, and make the back removable.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I hope you had a great time away on the weekend. I've never tried the styrene trick for straightening warped walls. Making it the entire floor area is a great idea.
Tom
I then took a scrap piece of wood and cut it on the drawn template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145354-548881439.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145354-548891076.jpeg)
I then glue the angle piece of wood under the door and against the frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145354-54890688.jpeg)
Same on this store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300325145354-548912053.jpeg)
I'll cut smaller steps for the stores as I get close to finishing this five store row. Doing and gluing them now will only lead to me breaking them off while painting and adding details.
Done for today.
Tom your cuts are always right on.
Hi Tom, man no moss grows under your feet!
Your just flying along on this one.
That "Simply Green" product looks like it works great!
I will have to give that stuff a try next time.
Wonderful fix on that damaged corner cornice.
Also your method of filling in the sidewalk gap on the bottom of the stores will be something I try next time as well.
Keep up the great work!
Greg
Tom,
What Greg said about the speed that this build is progressing.
The wood skirting at the street level looks great. I'm guessing that the step from the sidewalk to the street will be less dangerous.
Great work Tom. And some nice cutting on that wood piece perfect fit!
Jerry
Tom, yet another creative work around to fix a design problem.
Well done!
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 30, 2025, 04:51:20 PMTom your cuts are always right on.
Curt,
Your comment is very much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on March 30, 2025, 06:38:38 PMHi Tom, man no moss grows under your feet!
Your just flying along on this one.
That "Simply Green" product looks like it works great!
I will have to give that stuff a try next time.
Wonderful fix on that damaged corner cornice.
Also your method of filling in the sidewalk gap on the bottom of the stores will be something I try next time as well.
Keep up the great work!
Greg
Greg,
I agree, I have been busy of late. The SG removed the sticky resin mold release. Thank you also for the corner fix comment.
I like the Magnuson sidewalks, but they are just to much out of scale.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 30, 2025, 08:44:11 PMTom,
What Greg said about the speed that this build is progressing.
The wood skirting at the street level looks great. I'm guessing that the step from the sidewalk to the street will be less dangerous.
Ron,
Thank you also. Less dangerous for sure.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 30, 2025, 11:55:59 PMGreat work Tom. And some nice cutting on that wood piece perfect fit!
Jerry
Jerry,
Your compliments are most welcome, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 31, 2025, 07:44:10 AMTom, yet another creative work around to fix a design problem.
Well done!
Rick,
Thank you Rick. By the way, when I took Pam out to dinner Thursday night for our 35th Anniversary, which was Sunday, 3/30/90, after making a toast, she said, "When is Rick coming back to Florida?" 8) I guess I know where I stand! ;D ;D ;D
I told her you said two years or more. ;D
Tom
This morning my plan was to prime the Merchant's Row I. I looked at the front and noticed a huge gap in the wall.
I hadn't noticed this until this morning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160113-549082076.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160113-54909483.jpeg)
My Squadron Putty was dried up and non-usable. Off to the local hobby shop.
I found a new product called Perfect Plastic Putty. It is put out by Deluxe Materials. I bought a tube and will never go back to Squadron Putty again. This stuff is great and water clean up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160113-549111496.jpeg)
I squeezed it out and into the crack. I used a piece of scale 2X6 to smooth it in the gap and let dry for 30 minutes. What you see is how it filled in the gap on the structure.
I didn't have to sand or file any of it after drying.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160113-54910844.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160113-549121365.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160145-54913143.jpeg)
This afternoon I used Tamiya Light Gray to prime the structure.
Again, the roof is not glued in place.
I've placed it next to the Magnuson Municipal Building, which is Tahope's Court House.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160145-54914921.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160145-549151132.jpeg)
I primed the court house with Ace Hardware Primer. It is lighter in color than Tamiya's light gray. I must add that the Ace primer is much much cheaper and works just as well. From now on, Ace Auto Primer for me. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325160145-549161588.jpeg)
This is all I'll do on this Merchant's Row for now. My plan is to move onto Magnuson's Merchant's Row II. That will be a separate thread.
I want to get all the structures built and then start the painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325163119-549172440.jpeg)
Done for today on MR I.
It looks great so far Tom.
Tom, nice find on the putty.
I'm guessing MR I will go next to this one.
Quote from: Rick on March 31, 2025, 07:19:36 PMTom, nice find on the putty.
I'm guessing MR I will go next to this one.
Rick,
Placing it next to the first one is my intention. However, looking at it more closely, it may be a better fit on the third level in Summit.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 30, 2025, 10:07:19 AMQuote from: TomO/Tloc on March 29, 2025, 04:32:55 PMI've put together many of the plastic HO Merchant Row series kits from Walthers. I even drove to Galena, Illinois and Darlington, Wi, where supposedly many of the building ideas came from. I wanted color ideas? But I've never built a Magnuson kit. I think I'm glad. Great tutorial, thank you.
The use of the brass is a new one for me for bracing as I have always used the Evergreen styrene or self cut wood strips. I do have quite an inventory of brass channel and tubing that I've no idea what to use it on. But, there is a scratch paper mill being started and now I know what to use. An extra thank you for that.
TomO
Tom,
Thank you and happy to have you along on this adventure. Speaking of color ideas, I have no idea what to paint these.
Happy to have some new tricks of modeling shared, I've certainly picked up my share from others.
Again, thank you and you are very welcome.
Tom
Tom
I've never painted a resin kit but after a good cleaning I wouldn't think any of the colors you have in stock wouldn't work.
The thing both my wife and I thought was strange was how muted the colors in Galena, ill, Darlington and Mineral Point, Wisconsin were. I expected vibrant colors but they weren't.
Merchant Row is an actual street in Milton, Wisconsin but the fronts of the buildings have been modernized. I think there is just 1 Nationally Regristered building on that street. The other 3 cities I noted above have many in their main business district with Galena I bet in the hundreds across the city.
I don't know if the story about Magnusion then Walthers getting the kit ideas from Galena and Darlington business districts are true or not but there are characteristics in the Walthers kits that mimic all the cities I mentioned above.
Pictures here are limited but I found great images online of Galena but Google earth street views have been my best source
Tom, nice save on the gap at the front of the building. I think I'm going to have to pick up a tube (or 2) of the Perfect Plastic putty and add it to the toolbox.
The Municipal building seems to overpower the merchant row buildings, might need to be put on the other side of the street.
Mice find on that putty. And it sure did a nice fill.
Jerry
Quote from: TomO/Tloc on April 02, 2025, 04:19:53 PMTom
I've never painted a resin kit but after a good cleaning I wouldn't think any of the colors you have in stock wouldn't work.
The thing both my wife and I thought was strange was how muted the colors in Galena, ill, Darlington and Mineral Point, Wisconsin
were. I expected vibrant colors but they weren't.
Merchant Row is an actual street in Milton, Wisconsin but the fronts of the buildings have been modernized. I think there is just 1 Nationally Regristered building on that street. The other 3 cities I noted above have many in their main business district with Galena I bet in the hundreds across the city.
I don't know if the story about Magnusion then Walthers getting the kit ideas from Galena and Darlington business districts are true or not but there are characteristics in the Walthers kits that mimic all the cities I mentioned above.
Pictures here are limited but I found great images online of Galena but Google earth street views have been my best source
Tom,
Magnuson Models was started by Bob and Lynn Lunde. I believe they were initially in WI, not real sure. Sold Magnuson to Walthers, Then worked for Walthers, left and started DPM and eventually sold that as well.
I've looked at the building in Galena, Il. and Darlington and agree that the colors are some what less exciting than the original colors. The newer ones seems to want to paint over the brick reds and browns. I guess that makes sense in todays world. I'll probably do some of that on these.
Thanks for the information, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 02, 2025, 08:03:25 PMTom, nice save on the gap at the front of the building. I think I'm going to have to pick up a tube (or 2) of the Perfect Plastic putty and add it to the toolbox.
The Municipal building seems to overpower the merchant row buildings, might need to be put on the other side of the street.
Ron,
The Perfect Plastic is perfect for filling the gaps. In my opinion, works better than the squadron model putty.
The Magnuson Municipal building is large as you said but the Magnuson building won't fit on the other side of the road/street.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 02, 2025, 10:14:15 PMMice find on that putty. And it sure did a nice fill.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, it worked very well in filling the gap, much better than the green putty.
I didn't need to sand the plastic putty filler.
Tom
Tom nice fix on the building corner and this is looking good.
Looks perfect next to the courthouse Tom..... 8)
Quote from: Larry C on April 06, 2025, 08:18:38 AMTom nice fix on the building corner and this is looking good.
Larry,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 06, 2025, 11:18:00 AMLooks perfect next to the courthouse Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the comment. The court house is much larger as it should be, even for Tahope, However, I'm still moving structures around.
One thing for sure is that the Merchant's Row structures won't fit on the East side of Tahope's Main Street.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 06, 2025, 01:17:54 PMQuote from: GPdemayo on April 06, 2025, 11:18:00 AMLooks perfect next to the courthouse Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the comment. The court house is much larger as it should be, even for Tahope, However, I'm still moving structures around.
One thing for sure is that the Merchant's Row structures won't fit on the East side of Tahope's Main Street.
Tom
Well, if county offices were combined with the courthouse, that would justify the larger building... Or maybe the Sheriff's Dept operates from there... For the latter, you could add bars to some of the rear windows to represent cells. https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_structure-parts/p/8045-security-bars/Default.aspx
dave
Dave,
We are on the same page. The Judge and I discussed doing that very thing. We are going to use the back door to the Municipal Building to lock up those that appear in the Judge's Quarters. Some Tahopeans will need to be locked up, even when the courft house is closed.
Tom
Howdy Tom, As others have said, nice work filling the gaps. I think I'll pick up a tube of that magic plastic stuff. Have fun, mike
Quote from: friscomike on April 07, 2025, 01:52:28 PMHowdy Tom, As others have said, nice work filling the gaps. I think I'll pick up a tube of that magic plastic stuff. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much. The magic plastic putty is great.
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 06, 2025, 01:17:54 PMQuote from: GPdemayo on April 06, 2025, 11:18:00 AMLooks perfect next to the courthouse Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the comment. The court house is much larger as it should be, even for Tahope, However, I'm still moving structures around.
One thing for sure is that the Merchant's Row structures won't fit on the East side of Tahope's Main Street.
Tom
It seems that those who are the power in Tahope know how to spend the taxpayer and railroad money on "upgraded" public works projects..... ;)
Perfect save! Squadron,milliput, and testors are terrible IMO.
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 09, 2025, 09:44:46 AMQuote from: ACL1504 on April 06, 2025, 01:17:54 PMQuote from: GPdemayo on April 06, 2025, 11:18:00 AMLooks perfect next to the courthouse Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the comment. The court house is much larger as it should be, even for Tahope, However, I'm still moving structures around.
One thing for sure is that the Merchant's Row structures won't fit on the East side of Tahope's Main Street.
Tom
It seems that those who are the power in Tahope know how to spend the taxpayer and railroad money on "upgraded" public works projects..... ;)
For sure, that's a fact.
T
Quote from: Philip on April 09, 2025, 11:10:38 AMPerfect save! Squadron,milliput, and testors are terrible IMO.
Philip,
Thanks, I've used Squadron - hard to work with. Never used the others.
Tom
Squadron Green is styrene, apparently. I took an old bottle of Testors Liquid (with the brush), squeezed some Squadron Green into it, and then poured some Testors liquid back into the bottle and stirred. The result (depending on how much Testors glue I added) was a lot easier to work with than the Squadron Green right out of the tube.
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 09, 2025, 03:35:04 PMSquadron Green is styrene, apparently. I took an old bottle of Testors Liquid (with the brush), squeezed some Squadron Green into it, and then poured some Testors liquid back into the bottle and stirred. The result (depending on how much Testors glue I added) was a lot easier to work with than the Squadron Green right out of the tube.
dave
Dave,
Great info on the squadron green putty. I've used it in the past and didn't care for the results.
Tom
To get a better feel on how these will look in place, I started the painting process.
For the end store on this row, I chose Tamiya Gray Green. The left store was taped off and I sprayed the end store.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425163002-551161244.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425163002-551171743.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425163002-5511867.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 16, 2025, 04:27:02 PMQuote from: deemery on April 09, 2025, 03:35:04 PMSquadron Green is styrene, apparently. I took an old bottle of Testors Liquid (with the brush), squeezed some Squadron Green into it, and then poured some Testors liquid back into the bottle and stirred. The result (depending on how much Testors glue I added) was a lot easier to work with than the Squadron Green right out of the tube.
dave
Dave,
Great info on the squadron green putty. I've used it in the past and didn't care for the results.
Tom
I suspect any styrene solvent cement would work. Of the solvent cements I use, Testors is the slowest drying/slowest evaporating. That makes it the best candidate as a thinner for the Green Putty. Plus the bottle with the brush on the cap is convenient for applying small amounts of putty.
dave
Nice color.
I like the color.
Jerry
Great job Tom.
Tom, great colour choice on the end building.
Quote from: Jerry on April 17, 2025, 02:17:21 PMI like the color.
Jerry
Jerry,
I do as well, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 21, 2025, 03:32:07 PMTom, great colour choice on the end building.
Ron,
Thanks very much. I also like this color a lot and need to avoid over using it.
Tom
The front of the business next to the green front in stone or marble so I left is a gray and will address it latter.
The next building was taped off and sprayed with Tamiya Tan.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210425164202-5513846.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210425164203-55140986.jpeg)
There gray wall in the center is the rear wall to the front one that is stone or marble.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210425164203-55141712.jpeg)
The rear of that wall is brick. It was taped off and sprayed with Tamiya Dull Red. It isn't as red in reality as it appears in to photo.
Once weathered it will be fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210425164203-55142690.jpeg)
Front of the right end of Merchant's Row I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210425164203-55143751.jpeg)
Tom,
By the looks of it you're matching the colour palette you want to use very well.
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 22, 2025, 01:47:50 PMTom,
By the looks of it you're matching the colour palette you want to use very well.
Ron,
Thank you, I want to keep the color neutral or at least a little toned down..
Tom
Hello Tom, the addition of colors is really bringing the structure to life and I really liked the prototype photos that you posted. I can see where you're headed now.
Quote from: nycjeff on April 22, 2025, 06:18:04 PMHello Tom, the addition of colors is really bringing the structure to life and I really liked the prototype photos that you posted. I can see where you're headed now.
Jeff,
Hey, thank you and I agree. These are starting to look much more authentic with the addition of the colors.
Tom
I started painting the red brick color on the end of the MR I building. I used Americana Brick Red for the walls.
The roof top has the common walls so I painted them all with the brick red and not the colors of the front and rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425142743-551471503.jpeg)
This color reminds me of the color of my fireplace in the kitchen. The brick color is called Tennessee Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425142743-551482433.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425142743-55149333.jpeg)
The brown on the store front is Tamiya Dark (RAF) Brown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425142829-55152333.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425142744-551501439.jpeg)
Next I'll start painting the concrete color around the windows, doors and roof.
The roof in not glued in place.
Great coloring Tom!!
Jerry
That looks very good Tom.
Tom, nice choice of colors that work well together.
Waiting to see how you do the mortar lines.
Howdy Tom,
The row is looking great. The varied colors look authentic. I am a big fan of Deco Art's Heritage Brick color.
Have fun,
mike
Congratulation on the contest win Tom! I was out sick when it concluded.
Philip
Quote from: Jerry on April 23, 2025, 04:07:03 PMGreat coloring Tom!!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment on the colors.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 23, 2025, 07:41:35 PMTom, nice choice of colors that work well together.
Waiting to see how you do the mortar lines.
Rick,
Thank you and I think it will fit as far as the colors are concerned.
Some of them will have mortar lines and a few won't. The later paint jobs would just paint over the mortar for all one color.
The brick red will definitely have mortar lines.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on April 24, 2025, 05:29:10 PMHowdy Tom,
The row is looking great. The varied colors look authentic. I am a big fan of Deco Art's Heritage Brick color.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you. I'm really liking the Heritage Brick Red color.
Tom, still having fun.
Quote from: Philip on April 25, 2025, 02:28:04 PMCongratulation on the contest win Tom! I was out sick when it concluded.
Philip
Philip,
Thank you for the comment. I'm happy you and the Mrs. are doing well now.
Tom
I finally got back to this build. I started with painting the roof concrete blocks on top of the brick walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250525141816-55345748.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250525141826-55346474.jpeg)
I removed the roof for easier access for painting.
I chose Floquil Aged Concrete for the blocks. This color will weather nicely when all the roof detail are painted and added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250525141834-553472094.jpeg)
I carefully hand painted the sides and top of the wall blocks as well as the chimney caps. I'll paint the chimney stack with a weathered black once the aged concrete is dry and cured.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250525141843-55348313.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250525141852-55349990.jpeg)
I also painted the concrete trim on the main structure walls. The roof was placed on the building and set aside to allow the paint to dry and cure a few days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250525141929-553501220.jpeg)
Looks great Tom.
Good choice for the wall caps. A reasonable alternative (particularly for an earlier building) would be terra cotta (clay pot) color. But the Aged Concrete gives a nice contrast with the brick and presumably with the roofing, too.
dave
Tom, the roof is looking great.
I like your choice of colours, once weathered, the concrete colour will like it was supposed to be there.
Tom, nice to see you back at it.
Good color choice.
Nice coloring Tom. And good to see you back working on this project.
Jerry
Quote from: deemery on May 25, 2025, 03:46:33 PMGood choice for the wall caps. A reasonable alternative (particularly for an earlier building) would be terra cotta (clay pot) color. But the Aged Concrete gives a nice contrast with the brick and presumably with the roofing, too.
dave
Dave,
I was going to go with a gray color but liked the aged concrete look better. I haven't seen terra cotta wall caps here in the south but have seen them on northern structures. We have terra cotta roof tiles here though.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on May 25, 2025, 05:47:46 PMTom, the roof is looking great.
I like your choice of colours, once weathered, the concrete colour will like it was supposed to be there.
Ron,
Thank you as well. I think when weathered it will look natural for a 1920s structure.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on May 25, 2025, 06:59:22 PMTom, nice to see you back at it.
Good color choice.
Rick,
Thank you and its good to be back at the desk/bench.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 26, 2025, 12:05:12 AMNice coloring Tom. And good to see you back working on this project.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you on both, it is good to be back, well sorta. My explanation follows in the next post.
Tom
I have one more photo to show in this large format. I'm not going do any more posting until I get the photo program under control.
However, sadly, the next photo shows how my day went.
Dang it :'( >:(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260525154344-553621882.jpeg)
Certainly done for today.
Latest update looks good Tom. The concrete colour is a nice contrast to the walls.
If you run out of the Floquil aged concrete, Tamiya Deck Tan is a good alternative concrete colour too.
Tom, this row of stores is looking great and coming together nicely!
Regarding the spill of paint, we've all done that before.
However I have never taken a photo of it to share, I was to busy trying to contain my mess.
Greg
Ouch Tom,
Been there, done that. I have also done that with a bottle of Tamiya solvent which spilled on a bunch of plastic windows, it wasn't a pretty sight.
Tom, sorry that happened.
I think we've all had that happen.
I saw someone, don't remember who, posted on RRL a block of wood with holes drilled in the same size as the bottles to help prevent spillage.
Tom sorry that happened.
I've done it with acetone and it melted everything in plastic that was in its way.
Jerry
Quote from: robert goslin on May 26, 2025, 05:52:16 PMLatest update looks good Tom. The concrete colour is a nice contrast to the walls.
If you run out of the Floquil aged concrete, Tamiya Deck Tan is a good alternative concrete colour too.
Rob,
Thanks very much. I have Tamiya Dark Tan and you are correct, it is a close match.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on May 26, 2025, 06:56:39 PMTom, this row of stores is looking great and coming together nicely!
Regarding the spill of paint, we've all done that before.
However I have never taken a photo of it to share, I was to busy trying to contain my mess.
Greg
Greg,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment. Yea, the spilled paint was unfortunate but it happens.
I did contain the spill with paper towels and then grabbed the camera. I wanted to share my pain. 8)
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on May 26, 2025, 06:59:41 PMOuch Tom,
Been there, done that. I have also done that with a bottle of Tamiya solvent which spilled on a bunch of plastic windows, it wasn't a pretty sight.
Ron,
This is the second time for me in the past 65+ years. I'm not even sure how it happened but I guess I knocked it over intending to move it back from the edge of the workbench.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on May 26, 2025, 07:33:55 PMTom, sorry that happened.
I think we've all had that happen.
I saw someone, don't remember who, posted on RRL a block of wood with holes drilled in the same size as the bottles to help prevent spillage.
Rick,
Thanks, yes, I'm sorry also. Now I only have two bottles left of the Floquil Weathered Black.
I like the idea of a bottle holder. I'm going to try that.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 26, 2025, 11:49:14 PMTom sorry that happened.
I've done it with acetone and it melted everything in plastic that was in its way.
Jerry
Jerry,
It was bound to happen since this is the first one in 30+ year since the last spill. The only thing that got ruined was the cutting mat now has no lines in that area. I'll switch out the mat later this summer.
Tom
The building are colored great just a tad too much on the painters pallet. :o Been there done that!
Tom it wouldn't be a hobby if you DIDN'T spill something along the way. The buildings are coming together nicely though.
Quote from: Philip on May 27, 2025, 02:19:00 PMThe building are colored great just a tad too much on the painters pallet. :o Been there done that!
Philip,
I agree, too much. When they were built, I'm sure they were all a natural red brick. Through the years as the ownership changed the facades were painted and repainted. Since the A&S era is late 40s very early 50s, the color pallet is "colorful". 8)
Oh, and thank you.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on May 27, 2025, 02:57:27 PMTom it wouldn't be a hobby if you DIDN'T spill something along the way. The buildings are coming together nicely though.
Larry,
I didn't mind the spill as much as I lost a goodly portion of the Floquil Weathered Black. But, snit happens.
Tom
After the spill clean up, I repainted the area of the roof that got splashed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525161924-553652010.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525161924-553671346.jpeg)
Made a test fit with the roof painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525161924-553681063.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525161924-553692298.jpeg)
Next painted white trim on the right end building. I see a little white bleed on the top of the first floor trim. Will fix that later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525161924-55370438.jpeg)
I was gong to add a sign to this side wall but it faces the alley. Not much to see.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162007-55371447.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162007-5537233.jpeg)
I added wood roof trap doors where the resin doors were. They were stained with Floquil Flo-Stain Oak.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162007-553731647.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162007-553741886.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162007-553751230.jpeg)
I weathered the roof caps and walls with Hunterline Light Gray A&I alcohol stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162049-553791765.jpeg)
Looking good Tom, I felt your pain when I knocked over a bottle of Floquil Burlington Northern green and lost most of it.....darn. :'(
I used PanPastels artist pastels to lightly weather the roof. I'll add more weathering once the roof is permanently on the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162049-553771727.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162049-55378530.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270525162049-553761220.jpeg)
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 27, 2025, 04:41:03 PMLooking good Tom, I felt your pain when I knocked over a bottle of Floquil Burlington Northern green and lost most of it.....darn. :'(
Greg,
Yes, I remember now you did that. By the way, Dam holds back water and Damn is what we say to be polite, as in "Damn right you sure did!"
You know you are my fall guy, right?
Tom
It's not Floquil, but I think you can match Weathered Black to one of the standard artist Neutral Gray range:
https://goldenartistcolors.com/resources/neutral-grays N5 looks pretty close, and you might find that at Michaels/Hobby Lobby in the fine arts department.
dave
The roofs look terrific Tom.
Tom, nice job repainting the roof.
All the painting and details added are bringing the roofs to life.
Looks great, Tom! If I spill paint I'll be a dead man walking given I work mostly in the living room. I'd have to throw my body on the floor to protect the rug! :o
Nice job painting the roofs Tom. And the added detail is really nice I like the wooden parts you made up.
Jerry
Coming on nicely, Tom.
I like your colour schemes.
Cheers, Mark.
Howdy Tom,
I like the color variation of the roofs and subsequent weathering, just excellent.
Sorry for the loss of all that paint. I think we've all spilled something, mine was a whole container of Dr Bens black pigment, that I'm still trying to get off the floor, a year later.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: deemery on May 27, 2025, 04:49:20 PMIt's not Floquil, but I think you can match Weathered Black to one of the standard artist Neutral Gray range:
https://goldenartistcolors.com/resources/neutral-grays N5 looks pretty close, and you might find that at Michaels/Hobby Lobby in the fine arts department.
dave
Dave,
Thanks, I do have several of the Golden colors but not the grays. I'll go to Sam Flax and check them out.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 27, 2025, 05:48:56 PMThe roofs look terrific Tom.
Much appreciate the comment Butty, Thank you.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on May 27, 2025, 06:52:41 PMTom, nice job repainting the roof.
All the painting and details added are bringing the roofs to life.
Rick,
Thank you as well. The roof was an easy fix. I emailed Doug Fosscale for some HO TV antennas. They would be perfect for this roof, so far nothing back. He is busy.
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 27, 2025, 09:06:37 PMLooks great, Tom! If I spill paint I'll be a dead man walking given I work mostly in the living room. I'd have to throw my body on the floor to protect the rug! :o
Butty Bob,
Thank you and yes, you best be careful, very very careful.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 27, 2025, 10:57:23 PMNice job painting the roofs Tom. And the added detail is really nice I like the wooden parts you made up.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you very much. I want to add TV antennas also but I need to get them from FOS.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on May 27, 2025, 11:59:53 PMComing on nicely, Tom.
I like your colour schemes.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you, the colors are pretty much neutral to my eye and camera.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on May 28, 2025, 08:52:52 AMHowdy Tom,
I like the color variation of the roofs and subsequent weathering, just excellent.
Sorry for the loss of all that paint. I think we've all spilled something, mine was a whole container of Dr Bens black pigment, that I'm still trying to get off the floor, a year later.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you. Yea, the paint was a bummer but if that is all I have to worry about then I'm in great shape. I don't think you will ever get the black pigment out of the carpet. :(
Tom
I forgot to mention one other addition I made to the roof.
Two sections on the roof have rolled roofing and two have a rough surface. The roof on the one end was very smooth and I wanted to add more of a texture.
I cut a piece of sandpaper to fit the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162600-55385638.jpeg)
I marked on the sandpaper where the brick chimneys were located.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162600-553861678.jpeg)
I notched the paper to fit and then pressed to down on the two vent pipes. I also pressed the roof hatch and cut the paper to fit around the hatch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162601-553882210.jpeg)
Of course after spilling the paint, I squirted out to much white glue. I had to wipe most of it off. Yes, it was one of those days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162716-5539134.jpeg)
Sandpaper added to the roof and held in place until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162716-5539226.jpeg)
I painted this roof section with Floquil Foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162917-553961300.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525162917-553951827.jpeg)
When the foundation color dried, I added the weathering. Now you are caught up on the build.
I'll try to get back later but need to crop and add more photos.
Yesterday afternoon and most of today was spent painting the door and window trim.
All trim colors are Floquil. I was a challenge to stay focused but I survived.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170241-553971204.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170242-55398855.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170242-553992142.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170242-554001940.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170242-554012381.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170323-55402251.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170323-554031846.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170324-554051745.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170324-554061052.jpe%5Bimg%5Dhttps://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170443-554111585.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170435-554071049.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170435-554081465.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170435-554092308.jpeg)
My paint brush decided to not paint a straight line. I taped off the offending area and resprayed the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525170435-554102428.jpeg)
Next I'll add some mortar and some light weathering on the walls. I have another detail to add to the rear walls.
Done for today on this one.
Oops, forgot this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280525171850-554122446.jpeg)
That looks very good Tom.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 27, 2025, 04:46:53 PMQuote from: GPdemayo on May 27, 2025, 04:41:03 PMLooking good Tom, I felt your pain when I knocked over a bottle of Floquil Burlington Northern green and lost most of it.....darn. :'(
Greg,
Yes, I remember now you did that. By the way, Dam holds back water and Damn is what we say to be polite, as in "Damn right you sure did!"
You know you are my fall guy, right?
Tom
Yeah, I know.....maybe I should have said dang-nab-it..... :-\
I hate when the paint brush doesn't cooperate and does it's own thing.
It's all coming together nicely.
Tom,
Love the colour choices for the buildings.
My Fort Sill gunnery instructor had a phrase he'd often use with us new lieutenants. That phrase is particularly useful for expressing frustration. ("bleep me to tears!") A couple months ago, I met on-line another guy who had SFC Hedge for gunnery, and we laughed about our shared adoption of his signature phrase.
dave
Nice work Tom. Sometimes the brush just wants to do it won thing!
Jerry
Quote from: Rick on May 28, 2025, 07:24:54 PMI hate when the paint brush doesn't cooperate and does it's own thing.
It's all coming together nicely.
Rick,
I try to hide all the brushes that want to not do what I want. However, a few find their way back. ;D
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on May 28, 2025, 08:04:26 PMTom,
Love the colour choices for the buildings.
Ron,
Thanks very much. Looking forward to our meeting.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on May 29, 2025, 09:21:35 AMMy Fort Sill gunnery instructor had a phrase he'd often use with us new lieutenants. That phrase is particularly useful for expressing frustration. ("bleep me to tears!") A couple months ago, I met on-line another guy who had SFC Hedge for gunnery, and we laughed about our shared adoption of his signature phrase.
dave
Dave,
I'll try to remember the "bleep me to tears". However, the street cop in me has another version. One I can't share here.
I do have one I can share. My partner stopped a guy for Loitering and Prowling one night. We asked him what he was doing behind the building with a screwdriver at 3AM. His response was "Seniors, no habla English". Mack, my partner, looked and him and said, "Listen up dirt bag, comprende jail M** F**r." All of a sudden he learned to speak English and said, " See policia, I understand."
True story.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 29, 2025, 10:31:50 AMNice work Tom. Sometimes the brush just wants to do it won thing!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you and yes, those pesky brushes sometimes have a mind of their own.
Tom
Tom, I'm sure you can do the appropriate military term for "bleeping" ;D
dave
Quote from: deemery on May 29, 2025, 06:18:36 PMTom, I'm sure you can do the appropriate military term for "bleeping" ;D
dave
Dave,
Yes, several to be exact! ;D
Tom
Hey Tom, when Pegi's dad, an ex NYPD LT, was a beat cop, he used to get guys on "Loitering and Attempting To Gawk"..... :)
Howdy Tom, excellent work. ~mike
Tom,
I have been very lax on this forum for a couple of months now due to other on-going concerns.
Enough of that for now.
I enjoyed looking at this build for a few reasons. I once purchased a Magnuson kit (Firehouse), and like you it had sticky walls and all the walls were badly warped. So, I sold it. After seeing your tips for straightening them and tips for sticky removal, I may try another kit. I do prefer plaster, as they are easier to sand the backs and edges of walls for me for aligning purposes.
Getting back to this build, I like the way you model by showing everything, leaving nothing out, good & bad results. This makes me a better scratchbuilder, thinking ahead. Many thanks. Previously, I stayed away from these kits due to the fact of not having a need for a large town area without plans for a future layout, or the room for one. I now may make room for a couple of smaller Magnuson kits.
I will be following your build and so far, it is excellent.
Rich
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